Companion planting herbs allows plants to deter pests, enhance pollination, and improve soil health, Daniel Powers, founder of The Botanical Institute, says. It also leads to a lusher and a more aromatic garden all season long, “As long as you pay attention to plant families, the size of your chosen herbs, their heat tolerance and sun requirements, and if they are annual or perennial, you can mix and match according to your preferred flavors, garden space and climate,” Tanja Eskildsen, an adaptation gardener and owner of the seed shop, Perennial Vegetables, says. To find out what herbs can be planted together, read on to learn about 14 possible herb combinations. Herbs That Can Be Planted Together Chives and Parsley Some herbs when grown together can boost each other’s flavor. Planting chives near parsley, for example, can improve parsley’s overall taste, as chives offer a more pungent tang to parsley. Powers explains how chives also help repel aphids and beetles which will benefit delicate parsley plants. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Lavender and Rosemary Lavender and rosemary offer splendid blooms and love the same growing conditions: full sun and well-drained soil. So, growing these plants together is ideal because you won't need to worry about having to complete two different growing methods. Meanwhile, the pretty flowers usher in a pop of color to your garden. Basil and Oregano According to Powers, both plants can keep away pests. Basil can help repel mosquitoes, spider mites, and aphids. While oregano also has a strong scent that keeps pests away. “Both plants enjoy similar growing conditions too,” Powers says. Chives and Rosemary Sometimes herbs should be planted together because they have different root depths. This includes chives and rosemary, Powers says. By having differing root depths, both plants won't need to compete for resources like water. Sage and Thyme Thyme is a good companion plant with almost all herbs, but especially sage because both prefer less water. Thyme likes fast-draining soil whereas sage prefers drought-like conditions. Lavender and Sage Both plants prefer dry and sunny growing conditions, which is perfect because not many herbs thrive in hot climates and handle less water, Eskildsen explains. At the same time, lavender can also help repel animals such as deer and rabbits that like to nibble on sage, making these two plants even better for each other. Marjoram and Basil Occasionally, one plant might support the other more. Marjoram, for example, can improve the flavor and growth of basil, Powers says. Marjoram is a herb with a sweet citrus smell and taste, so growing it next to basil can make basil taste a bit sweeter. However, both herbs can create a more aromatic environment in a common vegetable garden, discouraging pests in the process. Thus, either plant can make a great addition to the garden. Cilantro and Dill Cilantro and dill can both attract beneficial insects like pollinators and predatory insects that control pest populations for each other, Powers says. For example, hoverflies are drawn to cilantro, and their larvae eat aphids, a common antagonist in any healthy garden. Parsley and Chervil Parsley, a flowering herb, and chervil, a member of the parsley family, are good garden companions because they like similar growing conditions. “Parsley can help enhance chervil’s growth and flavor, as they enjoy similar light and water conditions,” Powers says. Thyme and Rosemary Thyme and rosemary, both Mediterranean plants, thrive in dry, well-drained soil. Being planted together can help create a microclimate that suits their needs, Powers says. Not to mention, thyme repels cabbage worms and other pests of common garden plants. Dill and Chives Chives, like onions, have a pungent smell and taste, which repels pests like aphids, a common garden bug. Meanwhile, dill’s yellow flowers will draw in pollinators like butterflies and bees to your garden. Together, these herbs make a great team repelling and attracting different insects to your garden. Tarragon and Oregano Tarragon and oregano are both herbs with dainty flowers that offer lots of aroma. While both are indeed aesthetically pleasing, these two plants also prefer the same sun exposure and soil conditions, making them great companion plants in the garden. “These two plants can also benefit from each other’s presence by repelling a variety of pests due to their strong scents,” Powers says. Garlic and Rosemary Rosemary strengthens garlic’s flavor. Not to mention, both herbs also have a strong scent that deters many garden pests. These herbs also require the same soil conditions, so there's no need to maintain the plants in different flower beds. Since garlic loves sunshine and less water, rosemary makes for a great companion plant because it can quickly adapt and thrive. Marjoram and Chives Approximating the smell and appearance of green onions, chives have smaller flowers and leaves. This means they need less space in the garden while their strong odor repels many pests from the rest of your garden plants. Meanwhile, the citrus flavor of marjoram subtly sweetens the chives’ flavor. What Herbs Shouldn’t Be Planted Together Mint and most garden plants: According to Powers, mint can be incredibly invasive and can quickly overtake neighboring plants, robbing them of space, nutrients, and water. If you choose to grow mint, keep it in a separate container. Fennel and most herbs: Fennel is unfriendly to most other plants because it secretes a substance that can inhibit the growth of other plants around it, Powers says. It’s best to plant this herb away from others. Cilantro and Tarragon: These herbs prefer different growing conditions. For example, cilantro likes cooler temperatures and can flower quickly in warmer weather, while tarragon thrives in warm, dry conditions, Powers says. Planting these herbs together can make it difficult to keep each herb happy. Basil and Sage: These plants prefer different soil conditions. Basil loves moist soil and more frequent watering, while sage prefers well-drained, drier soil. Powers explains. Growing these together makes it so neither receives its optimal growing conditions. Peppermint and Parsley: Peppermint, like mint, tends to take over with a sprawling root system. This is why peppermint can overwhelm parsley, a single-root plant. Lemon balm and most garden plants: According to Eskildsen, lemon balm is an aggressive grower and will dominate a space. Additional Tips for a Thriving Herb Garden Know the Final Size of Your Herbs Some herbs grow into tall bushes and others stay low to the ground, Eskildsen says. Eskildsen recommends planting your tallest herbs in the background and the smaller ones in front or around it. This will help make sure each plant has enough light and make harvesting a lot easier. Identify If It's an Annual or Perennial “Some herbs you only need to plant once and others you plant every season,” Eskildsen says. To help organize your herb garden, it’s good to know if your herbs will grow in the same spot for many years or only one season, meaning it will have to be switched out for another herb eventually. Mix Shade and Sun-Loving Plants Appropriately Eskildsen explains how sun-loving and shade-tolerant plants grow well together as long as you plant the shade-tolerant plants under a taller sun-loving plant. “The foliage of the taller herb will gently shade the herb underneath allowing you maximum use of garden space," Eskildsen says.

Pick a space for your herb garden that can provide the proper light, soil nutrients, and humidity your herbs need. Pick and place herbs according to their needs—some plants need less water than others. After harvesting herbs they can either be frozen or dried in order to keep them viable for longer. Herb gardens are the perfect introduction to gardening and supply your senses and pantry with fresh flavors and scents. Whether you plan to grow herbs in containers or a small plot, here are the things you need to know to start a successful herb garden. Pick a Space for Your Herb Garden Herb gardens are so popular because they are easy to start and maintain; they grow quickly and you can begin harvesting within a few weeks. The size of your herb garden is up to you and depends on the quantity and variety of herbs you want to grow. Light Almost all herbs require at least 6 hours of full sun daily. A few such as chervil, mint, chives, and cilantro can be grown in an area with light shade. Soil Herbs need well-draining soil. They will no thrive in heavy, wet soil. Adding compost to clay soil will help improve the structure and drainage. The soil does not have to be highly fertile; too many nutrients tends to produce excessive amounts of poorly-flavored foliage. Temperature and Humidity Mediterranean herbs like basil, thyme, rosemary, oregano, and lavender like warm, sunny, dry conditions. Most perennial and biennial herbs can overwinter if they are protected with layers of mulch. Established herbs can tolerate dry conditions but supplemental water is recommended during periods of drought. Use mulch to conserve soil moisture, but keep it away from the base of the plants to prevent stem rot. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Pick Which Herbs You Want to Grow Most people plant the herbs they enjoy using for cooking, making teas, or drying for potpourri. Some make selections based on fragrance or bloom color. The beauty of an herb garden is that it is personal to your preferences. It is a good idea to group your chosen herbs by their watering needs to prevent over-watering those that prefer drier conditions. Drought-Tolerant Herbs Borage: Once established, allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Fennel: Drought-tolerant once established; allow the soil to dry between waterings. Lavender: Lavender will not survive wet roots and heavy soil. Marjoram: Drought-tolerant and prefers dry soil with occasional watering. Oregano: Thrives in dry and warm climates with low rainfall levels. Sage: A drought-tolerant plant that prefers soil to dry out between waterings. Rosemary: Prefers slightly drier conditions and minimal watering. Thyme: Water only when the soil is completely dry. Winter savory: Once established, prefers dry soil. Herbs with Moderate Watering Needs Basil: A broadleaf herb, it requires more water than herbs like thyme, rosemary, and sage. Bay laurel: For healthy leaves, keep the soil evenly moist. Catnip: A member of the mint family, catnip requires consistent moisture to flourish. Chervil: Prefers evenly moist soil with good drainage. Chives: Although drought-tolerant, chives must be watered evenly throughout the growing season for high yields. Cilantro: The soil should be kept evenly moist for tender leaves. Dill: Requires consistent moisture levels to flower and produce seeds. Lemon balm: Prefers soil that is moist but never wet. Lemon verbena: Requires regular watering. Mint: Thrives around water and can tolerate wet roots. Parsley: Evenly moist soil produces the most tender leaves of flat or curly parsley. Tarragon: Young plants need regular watering to become established. Propagating Herbs There are many ways to propagate herbs, and doing so can keep your herb garden fresh and perpetually growing for years. By Seed Nearly all herbs grow well from seed that you've saved or purchased. Fine herbs like anise, cilantro, dill, and fennel should be directly sown into the garden once the danger of frost has passed because they do not transplant well. Basil, parsley, sage, and thyme can be started indoors and transplanted into the garden when temperatures warm. After planting seeds in well-tilled soil with good drainage, water lightly until they germinate. From Cuttings To quickly establish new plants, herbs can be propagated from cuttings. Take cuttings in spring or early summer when the plant is actively growing; select a 3 to 4-inch stem that is healthy and tender. Strip the leaves off the bottom two inches and dip the cut end in rooting hormone. Place the stem in a small pot of moistened potting soil. Cover the pot with a plastic bag and place it in an area with bright, indirect light. Keep the soil moist and remove the plastic bag when new leaves begin to grow. Transplant the cutting into the garden once the plant has at least 3 or 4 sets of new leaves. Propagating Without a Plant If you don't have herb plants already established, there are some herbs you can grow from supermarket purchases like mint, basil, thyme, and more. By Division Herbs that have a clumping habit like tarragon, chives, and mint can be divided to create new plants. Use a garden trowel to gently dig up the clump of herbs. Use a clean, sterile knife to separate individual plants and replant or share them with others. Harvesting Herbs harvesting mint Valeriy_G / Getty Images Once an herb plant has enough foliage to maintain growth, fresh leaves can be harvested. It's best to harvest herbs before they flower or go to seed because leaf production declines. Snip stems at a leaf node with sharp, sterile clippers. For the best flavor, pick leaves or seeds after the morning dew has evaporated but before temperatures are high. Before using, discard any bruised or soiled leaves and inspect the herbs for insects or foreign matter. Rinse the herbs under running water and shake gently to remove excess moisture. How to Preserve Herbs The two best methods for preserving herbs are freezing and drying. Depending on the herbs you're drying, one method might suit your needs better than the other. By Freezing Tender herbs like basil, chives, cilantro, dill, lemon balm, mint, parsley, and tarragon freeze well in small batches. After harvesting and rinsing the herbs, pat the herbs dry. Place the herbs in a freezer bag, seal the bag, and place it in the freezer. To freeze in pre-measured portions, chop the herbs finely and place them in an ice cube tray. Add a small amount of water and allow the tray to freeze. When solid, pop out the cubes and store them in plastic bags. By Drying Rosemary, sage, thyme, and winter savory are the easiest herbs to dry and will retain the most flavor and color. After harvesting and rinsing the herbs, pat them dry with a paper towel. Form small bunches and tie them with cotton string. Hang the bunches upside down in a warm, well-ventilated place until the moisture evaporates. Avoid hang in direct sunlight that can strip flavor and color. The herbs are dry when the leaves crumble and the stems break when bent. Store dried herbs whole, crumbled, or ground in a cool, dark spot in a labeled airtight container for up to six months for the best flavor.

Watermelon is a popular melon that can be grown in any garden, as long as you have adequate space and sunlight. One tricky aspect of growing watermelon is knowing when the mature melons are ripe enough. It's important to pick them at the peak of ripeness because, like other melons, they don't continue to ripen off the vine. We're sharing 10 telltale signs to look out for when your watermelon is all ripe and ready to harvest. Weight If the watermelon feels dense and heavy for its size, this can be a good indicator of ripeness. The heavier the melon, the more juice has formed inside. But if you're not sure how heavy a watermelon should be, find two melons of approximately the same size and weigh both in your hands. You can practice this technique in the grocery store, too, to get a feel for how dense and heavy a ripe melon should feel. The Stem Is Mostly Brown If the watermelon stem has turned brown or is more brown than green in color, this is also a potential sign of ripeness. This indicates more energy from the vine has gone into the melon. Dried Out Tendrils The tendril is the curly section of the stem opposite where the watermelon is attached to the vine. Once the tendril turns brown and dry, the watermelon is ready to harvest The Ground Spot Is Yellow The ground spot (also sometimes called the "field spot" or the "belly spot") is usually a small round area on the watermelon where it has been lying in contact with the ground. Once this spot turns yellow, it's a sign the melon has ripened while still on the vine. Don't pick the melon if this spot is still white. If your watermelon doesn't have a ground spot, use some of the other signs to determine its ripeness. Note: this method won't work for miniature watermelons that are grown vertically on a fence or trellis. Smooth But Dull Skin Surface The surface of the watermelon skin should be dull and not shiny. A shiny rind or skin is still too immature to be harvested. The skin should also be free of cuts or bruises. Blossom End Firmness The blossom end of the watermelon is the one opposite the stem. Press gently on this spot; if it's mushy, the melon is overripe. If it's solid, the melon is underripe. If it presses in slightly, the melon is ripe for harvest. Smell A ripe watermelon will have a sweet but not overpowering smell when you sniff the blossom end. If the smell is overly sweet, rich, or cloying, the melon may be overripe. Vibrant Color Your watermelon may have any number of color characteristics depending on the variety; some melons are solid color and some have stripes. Look for a photo online of the variety to get a sense of how deeply colored a ripe one is (often a seed packet will have a photo of a ripe melon also). Wait until the melon reaches a vibrant color before harvesting. Even a watermelon that tends to be a paler green will reach a richer color as it gets ripe, so this is a sign along with the others listed to help you determine ripeness. Uniformity of Shape Different varieties of watermelon have different shapes: some are round, while some or more oval. You want to aim for a uniform shape with no unusual lumps or flat spots. Hollow Interior Sound Thump gently on the surface of the watermelon with your knuckles. A hollow, crisp, and resonating sound is a sign the watermelon is ripe. You will also feel a slight vibration. If the sound is dull and not resonant, the melon is not ready for harvest yet. How to Harvest When you've determined your watermelon is ripe enough to harvest, follow these techniques to do it properly. Cut It Off Cut the melon from the vine with a sharp knife or pruning shears. The watermelon may not pull loose on its own. Clean It Down Gently clean the melon with a soft cloth and mildly soapy water and rinse thoroughly. This is to remove any potentially harmful bacteria (that might be in the soil or left behind by garden wildlife) that might transfer from the skin into the fruit when you carve into it. Store Properly Store your watermelon at a temperature of between 50-60F. If stored at temperatures above 75F, the shelf life is only about 5 days. It's best to eat your watermelon as soon as possible after picking it. If you have any leftover cut portions, place them in the refrigerator.