flowers

Depending on the variety, marigolds can be both annuals and perennials. Choose the right type based on your region. Marigolds can be grown indoors before the last frost or directly sown after the danger of frost has passed outdoors. For thriving marigolds, place them under full sun, water them daily, trim leggy stems, and remove fading flowers. Marigolds (Tagetes spp.) are a popular flower for garden beds, and come in a wide variety of cultivars with a range of sunny colors. Many vegetable growers also plant them near tomatoes for their pest-deterring properties. Though most often grown or purchased as annuals, it's a little-known fact that some less common marigold varieties are perennial. Below, we detail the various marigold types you should know before growing them in your garden. Are Marigolds Perennials or Annuals? The most commonly planted marigolds are annuals, but there are some cultivars that are perennial shrubs native to Mexico. The majority of marigolds sold by plant nurseries or seed purveyors are either French marigolds or African marigolds. Sometimes these varieties will reseed themselves in the garden, creating the illusion that they are perennial, but any plants that come up in spring are new plants, not old ones. There are also pot marigolds (Calendula) which are an annual flower commonly grown from seed. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Popular Types of Marigolds Many gardeners choose marigolds for their colors or size, but with so many varieties available, it can be helpful to know their origins and botanical characteristics. Annual Marigolds Annual marigolds come in a very wide array of cultivars with a wide range of colors, sizes, and textures. There are three fairly common varieties. French marigolds (Targetes patula) : These are compact marigolds, growing up to 12 inches tall, with frilly, curved edges to their petals. This variety comes in a range of colors and is more likely to produce deeper red-orange colors. African marigolds (Tagetes erecta) : These marigolds can grow up to two feet tall and produce rounded, powder-puff shaped flowers with many petals. The color range includes many pale yellow and creamy white cultivars, as well as lime green and a range of oranges. The popular 'Crackerjack' marigolds are African marigolds. Signet marigolds (Tagetes tenuifolia): This variety has petite single-petaled flowers, though different cultivars may vary in height, from eight inches to two feet tall. These flowers have a string fragrance and are considered the best vegetable garden companions for pest deterrence. Perennial Marigolds Though they're not commonly sold in colder zones, these heat-loving perennial marigolds are native shrubs that grow well in warmer climates. Mexican mint marigold (Tagetes lucida): Also known as Mexican tarragon, this plant has culinary and medicinal uses. The taste and scent are similar to French tarragon, but this plant is easier to grow in warmer climates. This is the smallest of the perennial marigolds, reaching 1-3 feet tall. Hardy in USDA Zones 7-10. Mountain marigold (Tagetes palmeri): This semi-evergreen shrub has woody stems, often grows at altitude, and is between 3-5 feet tall and up to 6 feet wide. It has aromatic foliage and small, golden yellow flowers that attract pollinators. Mexican marigold (Tagetes lemmonii): This herby shrub has delicate, lacy foliage and is covered with small, yellow daisy-like flowers. Hardy in USDA Zones 8-11. How to Plant Marigold Seeds Marigolds are very easy to grow from seed and can be started indoors before the last frost or direct sown after danger of frost has passed. Plant seeds in well-draining potting soil or in garden beds. If planting outdoors, choose a sunny location, and rake the soil first to loosen the surface. The seeds should be planted just on the surface of the soil and patted down lightly. Water Daily. Water lightly with a mist sprayer until seedlings appear. Keep the soil moist but not wet. Once seedlings are an inch tall, water daily. Transplant seedlings outdoors. If growing indoors, transplant seedlings outside once the danger of frost is past. Thin seedlings as needed. Seedlings can be transplanted or thinned once they are at least two inches tall. Tips for Caring for Marigolds Marigolds are easy to care for and will bloom all season long. Grow in full sun. Marigolds bloom best in full sun, so make sure to plant or relocate them in an ideal location. Water regularly. Though they like sun and heat, marigolds thrive best with daily watering. Deadhead spent flowers. Removing flowers as they fade prompts more buds to form. Trim back the stems as needed. If your marigolds start to get "leggy," trim the stems back lightly to shape the plants. Stake taller plants if needed. Some taller varieties of African marigold might need some staking for support. Remove plants before late autumn. This will help prevent them from going to seed, but if you do want to collect seeds, they will appear as the last blooms have dried up.

Landscaping hydrangeas—potted or otherwise—will come back if planted within their USDA zone. Hydrangeas sold as flowering plants rarely return because of a forced early bloom period. Overwintering hydrangeas is low-maintenance and can be achieved with mulch and the right container for potted plants. Whether your hydrangea comes back next year depends on the type: Some last only a year at most, while others can last for decades. Here is how to successfully grow hydrangeas as perennials in the ground or in pots, what you can do to get them through the winter, and other hydrangea care tips. Are Hydrangeas Perennials? There is a significant difference between the small potted flowering hydrangeas that are sold by florists and a hydrangea that you bought at a nursery and planted in your landscape. The first kind is short-lived by design and the second kind lasts for years, if not decades. Small potted hydrangeas that are sold as flowering plants are not perennials. Also called florist hydrangeas, these hydrangeas have been forced into flowering early, and have weak stems and a much smaller root system as a result. This affects their ability to get established in the soil the same way, which greatly diminishes their chances of surviving the winter, and are more susceptible to diseases.1 As for landscaping hydrangea shrubs, these can be perennials. However, whether they come back every year depends on the hardiness of the hydrangea, which varies between hydrangea species and varieties. If the USDA zone of your location matches the hardiness zone requirements of the hydrangea you planted—and the rest of the growing conditions are also met—it is highly likely to come back. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Hardiness Zones for Hydrangeas Generally, members of the Hydrangea genus grow in Zones 3-9. Some species or varieties have a slightly narrower hardiness range: Bigleaf hydrangea: Zones 5-9 Oakleaf hydrangea: Zones 5-9 Climbing hydrangea: Zones 4-8 Within the species, there are also differences in hardiness between the cultivars. For example, Endless Summer is an outlier, a particularly cold-hardy bigleaf hydrangea that survives winters as low as zone 4. If your hardiness zone is lower or higher than that of the variety, it will grow as an annual. Florist hydrangeas are also grown as annuals. A frost-free climate (Zone 10-11) is not suitable for growing hydrangeas as perennials because to go dormant and bloom the next year, hydrangeas need a cold period during the winter. How to Grow Hydrangeas in Pots Hydrangeas in pots can be grown as perennials, but they need a little extra care. Select a frostproof pot to prevent cracking; clay, terra cotta, or ceramic pots are not suitable. Make sure the pot has large drainage holes. Place the potted plant in a protected spot, such as north- or east-facing site to avoid strong sun exposure and temperature extremes. Potted hydrangeas dry out much faster than plants in garden soil. Water frequently, up to once or twice a day in hot weather whenever the top inch of soil feels dry. Water slowly and deeply until water drips out of the drainage holes. Fertilize the hydrangea twice, once in early spring and again in mid-spring, to make up for the washout from frequent watering. Do not apply fertilizer after late July. How to Overwinter Hydrangeas If you have planted a hydrangea that is suitable for your climate, there is no need to protect in-ground hydrangeas during the winter. However, covering the area around the shrub with 3 to 4 inches of mulch insulates the roots against the cold. Potted hydrangeas need to be winterized, even if they are hardy in your zone. Burying the container in the ground soil before the ground freezes is only practical for smaller pots. For larger containers, build an insulation silo by placing the container in a larger container filled with mulch or straw. Alternatively, wrap the container (not the plant) with several layers of bubble wrap or burlap. Tips for Growing Hydrangeas Finding the right amount of sun exposure for your hydrangea is key for it to bloom. The warmer your climate, the more shade the hydrangea needs; locations in morning sun and afternoon shade are best. Do not overfertilize the plant. Instead of using commercial fertilizer, working organic matter such as compost into the soil every spring is often sufficient to add nutrients. Using organic matter avoids too much nitrogen, which leads to lots of foliage and fewer blooms. Hydrangeas need consistent moisture. In dry spells and hot weather, keep an eye on the plant. If the leaves look wilted during the day and don’t recover in the evening, water deeply. Familiarize yourself with the budding and flowering pattern of your hydrangea because that determines the right time to prune hydrangeas.

Daffodils need at least six hours of sunlight to flower, so move your flowers to a sunnier area that's not blocked by trees. Plant your daffodil bulbs at a depth of three times their size, about 8-10 inches deep. Ensure their roots won't be too crowded. Avoid heavy nitrogen fertilizers since they can encourage leaf growth but not blooms. Daffodils are a popular perennial bulb, with hundreds of varieties available in a range of types according to their shapes and bloom times. Though yellow is the most common color, they can also include touches of orange, pink, white, and green. Depending on the variety, daffodils may begin blooming in early, mid, or late spring. They tend to be easy to grow and are fairly reliable perennials, but sometimes poor growing conditions or other factors can cause them to stop blooming. We spoke with some experts to explore some of the most common reasons why your daffodils aren't blooming, and also suggested some possible fixes for this problem. Not Enough Sun Daffodils need at least partial sun to bloom; some varieties prefer full sun. Peggy Anne Montgomery, a horticulturist and head of Montgomery Horticultural Consulting, says daffodils are not known to be finicky bloomers, but a lack of sunlight is often a reason why they don't flower. She recommends striving for at least six hours of sunlight for daffodil plantings. Annette Hird, a horticulture writer and founder of Easy Urban Gardens, recommends moving daffodil bulbs to a sunnier location if the blooms have been scant, and points out that ample sunlight aids photosynthesis of the foliage. Keep in mind that the angles of sunlight move during the season, and daffodils emerge early, so when planting bulbs in autumn, you need to consider where the sun will be in spring. Also, if your daffodils have been in one place for a long time, it's possible that trees or shrubs growing larger over the years may be blocking sunlight. Too Crowded If your daffodils are planted in an enclosed flower bed or near a building foundation, shrub, or tree, they may become too crowded over time. This is even more likely if the clumps have grown large and haven't been divided in a while. If your clumps are more than a foot wide, they may need dividing. Montgomery says that daffodils being too crowded is a common reason for blooms to decrease, and that if you have an old stand of daffodils, it may be time to lift and divide them. Poor Drainage In thick clay soil or in boggy garden areas, daffodil bulbs may stay too wet, and this can rot the bulbs. Add some soil amendments when planting or dividing to improve drainage. Divide large clumps of bulbs regularly (every couple of years), as wet soil clinging to large clumps can also affect soil drainage or even cause bulbs to rot. Not Planted Deep Enough or Early Enough There's a standard "rule" that daffodil bulbs should be planted at a depth of three times their size, about 8-10 inches deep. It's also important to plant daffodils well in advance of the first frost, by mid to late September. This lets the bulbs get established before cold weather sets in. The same rule goes for replanting bulbs after dividing them. Laura Janney, a gardening expert and creator of the Inspired Garden Masterclass, suggests dividing daffodils in early summer. Trimming Foliage Too Soon Daffodils draw nutrients from their leaves to help feed the bulbs and allow them to store up energy for the next season of bloom. Janney says that some gardeners don't realize that it's important to let the foliage fade and die back naturally, rather than cutting it right after flowering has ended. She suggests waiting until the leaves have started to turn yellow before removing the foliage. Some gardeners plant their daffodils strategically near other perennials that emerge in late spring (such as hostas or day lilies) to help camouflage the decaying foliage. Too Much Fertilizer In general, daffodils don't really need much fertilizer unless you have poor soil. You can use a small amount of fertilizer made for spring-blooming bulbs as new growth emerges, or top dress them with a bit of bulb food in the fall, or mix it into soil when planting, Janney says. Also, avoid heavy nitrogen fertilizers; Montgomery says too much nitrogen tends to encourage leaf growth but not blooms. Hird recommends a balanced, low-nitrogen fertilizer in spring if needed, as well as enough water to keep the growing plants hydrated, which will keep their leaves lush.

Make sure your tulips are receiving enough sunlight by placing their pot under the sun and watering them sufficiently. For top-heavy tulips, use a stick or other support to help your tulips stand up straight. This will help make them grow stronger. To treat Botrytis blight, a common disease, remove all infected foliage and flowers and apply a fungicide spray. Spring has sprung, and one of the most beautiful flowers to see blooming this time of year is the tulip. Stately, tall, and colorful flowers, tulips, make a spring flower garden truly dazzle. But this might not be the case if your tulips are drooping, which can come from a myriad of causes. We chatted with flower and garden experts to find out why tulips droop and what to do about it. Insufficient Sunlight Tulips love sunlight and have a natural tendency to grow directly towards a light source. If that light source is not directly above them, the tulips can grow sideways, making them appear wilted, even though the flowers are perfectly healthy, Lotte Berendsen, an expert botanist from the PlantIn app, explains. To fix this problem, provide your tulips with sufficient sunlight, and make sure that the light source is placed above the pot. Keeping your tulips, even in pots, as a container garden, outside is the best way to grow them, as they will naturally grow up towards the sun while outside, Berendsen says. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Top-Heavy Tulips Sometimes, tulips’ flower heads are simply too large and heavy for the stem to keep them upright. But this is more common in tulip varieties with large, bushy flower heads, Berendsen explains. “Unfortunately, there’s little you can do to help your top-heavy tulips stand up naturally,” she says. “We suggest adding a stick or other support to help keep your tulips standing straight.” Sometimes, the plant will gain strength from a bit of help and eventually may be able to stand up on its own. Lack of Water Tulips are thirsty flowers and love lots of water. For this reason, no water can make a tulip flower droop, Charlotte Denne, a wildflower seed grower, says. The tulips’ stems become dehydrated, and then the flowers droop, as the stems are not strong enough to support the weight of the blooms without water. One way to fix this is to give the flower more water to keep the flower upright—or, treat the tulips as a cut flower garden, trimming the stems and placing the flowers in fresh water immediately, Denne says. Diseases Tulips are susceptible to a few diseases that can cause wilting. “Botrytis blight is the most commonly found one in tulips,” Berendsen explains. “This disease can cause dramatic wilting, browning, and blister-like lead or flower spots.” To treat Botrytis blight, remove all infected foliage and flowers and apply a suitable fungicide spray, she says. In the future, you can prevent Botrytis blight by applying proper crop rotation, keeping your plant’s foliage as dry as possible, applying preventative fungicides, and researching disease-free variants of your favorite tulip varieties. Blocked Stems It’s rare, but tulip stems can become blocked. Air bubbles or a buildup of bacteria, which forms a slimy biofilm, can block water uptake up the flower’s stem, Denne says. To fix this problem, you can re-cut stems at an angle under the waterline to clear blockages, she says. However, it is difficult to diagnose blocked stems beyond cutting the flower and seeing if it regrows. So, after cutting the flower, enjoy the flower in a bouquet while you wait. Old Age As with anything, tulips naturally age. And as they age, they droop, Denne says. You can enjoy the flowers as they last or replace them with fresh blooms, she says. Berendsen agrees and explains that if your tulip bloom is wilting and drooping because it’s at the end of its growth period, it’s better to let it die. “Tulip blooms last two to four weeks, so if your tulip has been in bloom for the past weeks, consider that it’s time to say goodbye,” she says. Snip the bloom once it’s entirely brown, as close to the base as possible.

Growing sunflowers in pots is easy, but you have to follow specific care requirements. Plant sunflower seeds in a pot that can handle your full-grown sunflowers, so you don't have to repot them. Sunflowers grow best in a full-sun spot on a south-facing windowsill, patio, or porch. When you hear "sunflowers," the idea of growing them in pots may be the furthest thing from your mind. But there are many types of sunflowers, and some of them perform admirably in a pot, provided that you take a few basic steps to ensure their optimal growth. Learn how to plant and grow sunflowers in pots, from sowing the seed to choosing the perfect location for the pot. How to Plant and Grow Sunflowers in Pots Sunflowers are easy to grow, but you can increase your chances of success in the project by taking the following steps: Select a suitable variety to grow in a pot. Select a suitable pot. At the most basic level, match the size of the container to the size that the plant will achieve at maturity. Fill the pot with a potting mix. Sowing seeds directly in the pot, rather than starting the plants on a windowsill and transplanting them later, to avoid transplant shock. Sunflowers grow vigorously enough that you don't have to bother starting them indoors. Provide adequate water. Thin your seedling by selecting the seedling that looks healthiest as the one to keep, then gently remove the rest. This avoids overcrowding. If you want to grow multiple potted sunflowers, buy multiple pots. Locate the pot in a sunny spot. Fertilize your potted sunflower. Deadhead the flowers to encourage further blooming. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Sowing the Seed and Nursing the Seedlings The day before sowing seed, fill the container with potting mix (to within an inch of the rim) and sprinkle the surface with water to help it settle. You will be sowing a few seeds in the pot to ensure that something germinates, but you will be keeping only one seedling. Make your planting holes with a pencil, going down 1/2 inch. Drop a seed in each hole, then tamp down the soil to cover it. Water the soil lightly; do not make the soil soggy. After germination, irrigate regularly, but not excessively. The objective is to keep the soil evenly moist. Wait for the seedlings to put on a few inches of height before selecting the best one and thinning out the rest. The problem with thinning earlier is that young seedlings are particularly susceptible to damage from slugs and snails. A small plant can be decimated overnight by these pests. If you remove all seedlings but one too early, only to have that one destroyed by pests, you'll have to start all over again. Soil Sunflowers grown in containers need good drainage. This is why you'll be using a potting soil rather than garden soil: Potting soil is lighter and drains faster. Sunflowers are also heavy feeders, so they will require fertilization. A slow-release fertilizer is the safest type to use. You can also amend the soil with compost or aged manure. Light Sunflowers need full sun to grow properly. Station your pot in a location that, on a typical sunny day, gets six to eight hours of direct sunlight. Water Your goal in watering is to keep the soil evenly moist. It should not be allowed to dry out completely, nor should it be soggy. Potted sunflowers have to be watered more frequently than those grown in the ground, because containers dry out faster than the ground. But other factors, such as weather, also affect how often you will need to irrigate. To determine when it is time to water again, poke a hole an inch down into the soil: If it is not evenly moist down to that level, then it is time to water. Location In addition to choosing a location with full sun, select one that is sheltered from high winds. Potted sunflowers are very attractive on south-facing decks or patios. Best Sunflowers for Pots There are single-stem sunflowers and branching sunflowers. The single-stem types are great for cut flowers, as they bear large blooms on sturdy stalks. Branching types hold a charm of their own; some gardeners prefer them for patio displays, since they produce multiple blooms. Not all sunflower varieties grow well in pots. Large types, such as Helianthus annuus 'Mammoth,' are ill-suited for pots. Dwarf varieties are more suitable for pots; as a bonus, the shorter the sunflower, the less you will have to worry about it being buffeted by wind gusts. Find seeds for any of the more compact varieties of Helianthus annuus, which include: 'Firecracker': 2 to 3 feet tall, Firecracker is a branching sunflower. It has bicolored flowers (gold and reddish) with dark centers. 'Little Becka': 1 to 2 feet tall, Little Becka is a branching sunflower. It has bicolored flowers (gold and copper) with dark centers. 'SunBuzz': A shorter branching type (up to 20 inches tall), SunBuzz has yellow flowers with dark centers. 'Sunfinity': A taller specimen (up to 4.5 feet), Sunfinity is a branching sunflower that has golden flowers with dark centers. 'Teddy Bear': Teddy Bear is a single-stem type, sporting a large, golden flower that has a fuzzy texture. It stands 2 to 3 feet tall. Mexican sunflowers (Tithonia rotundifolia) are not true sunflowers, but they, too, perform well in pots. Best Pots for Sunflowers What makes a good container for sunflowers is one that: Has a large drain hole (to promote the excellent drainage that potted sunflowers need) Stays cool even while being pounded by the sun Has enough heft to offer stability Is big enough that the soil won't dry out too quickly yet not so big that the soil will retain excessive moisture Is made of a material that "breathes" Terra cotta pots are generally the best choice. Unlike plastic pots, they are porous, which allows for evaporation and keeps soil from becoming waterlogged.

Azaleas bloom any time between February through May depending on the variety, growing zone, and weather conditions. When planting azaleas, it's recommended to include a range of bloom times so there's a mix of early, mid, and late types. Protect azaleas from deer, insect pests, and harsh weather conditions by using neem oil and wooden frames. Azaleas are flowering shrubs that lend gorgeous color to the spring landscape. Though technically classified as a rhododendron, they are generally much smaller than rhododendrons, growing to a maximum mature height of 20 feet, with smaller flowers and thinner leaves. Newer dwarf cultivars come in a range of more compact sizes. What to Know About Azaleas Azaleas are either evergreen or deciduous, depending on the variety. Azaleas are bred to suit a range of climates and growing zones. They can be very long-lived and make excellent foundation shrubs or accents in woodland gardens. The five-petaled, fluted flowers have rounded or wrinkled edges. The blooms have a luminous quality, putting on quite a show in spring. The color range includes white, shades of pink, crimson, orange, yellow, lavender, and purple. The nectar-rich flowers are often fragrant and attract many pollinators. When Do Azaleas Bloom? Depending on the variety, azaleas bloom anywhere from February through May, and some rebloom in summer and fall. Azalea bloom times can be affected by unseasonable cold or warmth in spring. Moisture is also a factor; azaleas need adequate moisture in late summer to form strong buds for the following spring. Azaleas are loosely grouped by bloom times of early, mid, or late spring. Early Season Bloomers These varieties may start blooming as early as February, but most of them begin flowering in mid-March. There are numerous early-blooming cultivars. Some of the most popular include: 'Cascade' This fairly compact evergreen shrub grows up to four feet tall and six feet wide. It has showy pristine white blooms with peach freckles and is hardy in USDA Zones 5 to 8. 'Chinzan' is a dwarf evergreen (2-3 feet tall,3-4 feet wide) with hot pink flowers that arrive in early spring, then rebloom from midsummer through fall. It is cold hardy to USDA Zone 6. 'Formosa' This 8-foot tall beauty for warmer zones (8-10) has dramatic, colorful blooms of light lavender pink with magenta streaks and speckles. It blooms in early spring and often reblooms in summer and fall. Mid-Season Bloomers The flowers on the mid-season group begin appearing in mid to late April. Some great choices for the garden include: 'Pink-a-Boo' The bright pink flowers bloom from mid to late spring and have a spicy fragrance and a striking orange flare on the upper petals. They grow up to six feet tall and are cold hardy in USDA Zones 4-8. 'Lemon Lights' From the 'Northern Lights' series, this azalea's soft yellow fragrant flowers appear in late April and frequently rebloom in summer and fall. This cold hardy shrub (USDA 4-8) grows 4-5 feet high and 3-4 feet wide. 'Gibraltar' The large, vibrant orange blooms have a fruity fragrance and appear in mid to late April. Hardy in USDA Zones 4-8, this one has a tidy round habit with a height and spread of 4-5 feet. Late Season Bloomers This group includes smooth azaleas and late season hybrids. They usually start blooming in early May, flower through early June, and often rebloom in summer. Some well-loved cultivars include: Smooth azaleas Also known as sweet azaleas, these native azaleas (Rhododendon arborescens) grow up to ten feet tall, are hardy in USDA Zones 4-7, and are one of the last to bloom in spring. The flowers are creamy white to pale pink, with colorful autumn foliage. 'Cecile' This gorgeous hybrid, introduced in 1947, has large ruffled blooms of coral pink tinged with yellow, and dark red autumn foliage. Hardy in USDA Zones 5-8, it blooms in May and grows between 5-8 feet tall. 'Girard's Crimson' Bright crimson red blooms appear in May on this nice compact shrub (4 feet tall and wide). Hardy in USDA Zones 5-8, it reblooms in summer, then again in fall as the leaves take on coppery highlights. 5 Tips for Making Azaleas Bloom Longer There are a number of reasons for why azaleas sometimes fail to bloom. They can be sensitive to weather conditions like temperature and moisture, which can affect bud formation and blooms. Here are a few tips to extend your azalea bloom season. Protect from deer and insect pests. Deer fencing is a good idea if you have roaming deer who love tasty flower buds in early spring. Use neem oil to help deter insect pests who might also damage flowers. Include a range of bloom times. If you plant multiple azaleas, be sure to include a range of bloom times, including early, mid, and late spring, as well as reblooming varieties. Make sure azaleas get adequate moisture in summer and fall. Moisture is crucial when buds are forming, so be sure to water regularly from late summer through autumn. Water with rainwater. In some areas tap water can be alkaline, which can affect the soil pH when used to water plants. Collect rainwater to water your azaleas to maintain their preferred acidic soil pH. Give early spring bloomers some winter protection. Some gardeners use wooden frames to protect azaleas from heavy snowfall, which might damage buds. You can also drape burlap or other fabric lightly over the shrubs.

Although many people associate hibiscus with tropical or subtropical regions, it also grows in temperate climates throughout the world. The large Hibiscus genus of over 200 species and many more cultivars includes annuals, perennials, shrubs, and small trees. The large, trumpet-shaped flowers of up to 12 inches in diameter are common to all hibiscus—they are the main attraction of this popular ornamental. The flowers come in a kaleidoscope of bright colors from white to pink, red, blue, orange, peach, yellow, and purple. All hibiscus flowers are very attractive to butterflies and hummingbirds. The care and growing requirements vary from species to species. Hibiscus Care The care you provide your hibiscus will vary depending on whether it is a hardy or tropical variety and whether it is grown indoors or outdoors. Here are the main care requirements for growing hibiscus: In northern US, plant hibiscus in full sun. In the southern US, filtered sunlight is preferable. The soil should be fertile and loamy. All hibiscus needs consistently moist soil with good drainage. Keep the soil moist and water as needed. Select varieties that tolerate the temperatures in your location year-round. Alternatively, grow hibiscus in pots and overwinter it indoors. Fertilize the plant regularly during the growing season. Light Hibiscus loves bright conditions. In northern climes, full sun is best, but in the intense sunlight of southern locations, filtered sunlight is better. Indoors, hibiscus needs a bright spot near a sunny window. However, keep it away from strong, direct sunlight. If you move the plant outdoors for the summer, gradually acclimate it to the brighter light conditions. Soil All hibiscus do best in well-drained, fertile, moist, loamy soil. The hardy varieties are wetland natives and are a good choice for sites that are too wet for other plants. Most hibiscus prefer a slightly acidic soil pH. Water All hibiscus are thirsty plants that need to be kept moist. Unless they are planted in consistently moist soil, water them regularly. Mulching around the plant base helps with moisture retention. For container-grown plants, wait until the top inch of the potting mix fully dries out before watering. In hot summer weather, you might need to water your potted hibiscus as often as daily. Indoor tropical hibiscus benefits from regular watering from spring to early autumn during the growing season. Significantly reduce watering during the dormant period in the winter. Temperature and Humidity Hardy hibiscus grows in cool, temperate climates. It thrives in temperatures between 60°F to 90°F and tolerates temperatures as low as -30°F.1 Temperatures below 50°F cause cold-sensitive and tropical varieties to drop their leaves and temperatures below freezing kill the plants. Bring container-grown tropical hibiscus indoors when weather cools. All hibiscus thrive in high humidity; they aren't suitable for hot, arid climates. The high humidity found in a bathroom is a good place for an indoor hibiscus. Fertilizer To encourage abundant, healthy blooms with vibrant colors, hibiscus benefits from light yet regular fertilization. There is specially formulated hibiscus fertilizer, but any other fertilizer that is moderate in nitrogen, low in phosphorus, and high in potassium such as 10-4-12 or 12-4-18 will also work. Use a diluted water-soluble fertilizer once a week for hardy or tropical hibiscus. Granular slow-release fertilizer should be applied on hardy hibiscus three times a year, including early spring, after the first round of blooming, and midsummer, and tropical hibiscus monthly during the growing season from spring to fall. Types of Hibiscus There are hundreds of hibiscus species, including tropical and hardy hibiscus, plus many hybrids and cultivars. The four most popular species are: Tropical hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis): Also known as Chinese hibiscus, tropical hibiscus plants produce large and showy blooms from spring through fall as long as they get plenty of sunlight. In colder climates, plant tropical hibiscus in a container and overwinter it indoors. There are many different varieties, including the popular 'Fiesta'. USDA Hardiness Zone 7-11. Hardy hibiscus (Hibiscus moscheutos): This is the hibiscus for a cooler climate. Native to North America, the oversized flowers feature tissue-thin, ruffled petals in shades of pink, lilac, red, magenta, and white. USDA Hardiness Zone 4-9. Swamp hibiscus (Hibiscus coccineus): Native to the southeastern United States, this unusual hibiscus species has large, bright red, pinwheel-like flowers in the summer. USDA Hardiness Zone 6-9. Cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis): The show-stopping flowers of this tropical shrub start as a white or light pink color and within one to three days, change to a magenta pink and then a dark pink to red. USDA Hardiness Zone 7-11. Pruning Pruning hibiscus annually stimulates new growth with flower buds. The timing depends on the type of hibiscus you have but generally, pruning should be done as soon as the weather warms up in the spring. Hardy hibiscus mostly dies back to the ground in winter so you will only have to remove the dead stems before the new growth emerges. Dead, damaged, or diseased stems should be pruned at any time as soon as you notice them. Propagating Hibiscus Some hibiscus types are best propagated from stem cuttings and others can be propagated from seed. Follow the step-by-step propagation instructions for the type of hibiscus you have. How to Grow Hibiscus From Seed Growing hibiscus from seeds is usually only recommended for swamp hibiscus and roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa), the hibiscus species whose flowers are used for tea. For all other hibiscus types, propagation from seed is challenging and will likely lead to disappointing results because hibiscus cultivars and hybrids propagated from seed won’t produce a plant that is true to the parent. Potting and Repotting Hibiscus Nutrient-loving potted hibiscus will benefit from being repotted every couple of years in early spring. Avoid deep pots, otherwise the plant will spend a lot of its energy on root development instead of flower production. The ideal pot shape is quite wide but relatively shallow. Repot a plant that has outgrown its container into a pot one size larger and filled with fresh potting mix. Water well to establish the settle in its new home. Overwintering Tropical hibiscus is only hardy to USDA Zone 9 so it needs to be overwintered indoors in a warm spot where it gets plenty of indirect sunlight daily. Before you move the plant inside, cut it back by one-third and spray it thoroughly with a garden hose to remove any pests that may be present on the plant. Let the soil almost fully dry out between waterings and stop fertilizing. Leaf drop during the dormancy is normal; the plant will start regrowth in the spring. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Hibiscus is not bothered by many pests or diseases, but red spider mites become a problem when humidity levels are not high enough. Another potential pest is aphids. Keep them at bay with regular cleaning or insecticidal soaps. The appeal of hibiscus to deer depends on the species. How to Get Hibiscus to Bloom Bloom Months Depending on the type, hibiscus blooms from June to early fall. How Long Does Hibiscus Bloom? Individual flowers of most varieties only last for one day before they close and eventually fall off the plant. The payoff is a very long bloom period. Hardy hibiscus blooms from mid to late summer until the first frost and tropical hibiscus blooms from spring through late fall and into winter in frost-free climates. What Do Hibiscus Flowers Look and Smell Like? Hibiscus flowers range in size from 2 to 12 inches. They come in a kaleidoscope of colors and shades and the flowers are single or double trumpet-shape blooms. The flowers have no scent. How to Encourage More Blooms Failure to bloom is very often the result of shady conditions or a lack of fertilizer. Weekly feeding with a diluted liquid fertilizer may prompt your plant to produce plentiful flowers. Caring for Hibiscus After It Blooms Cutting perennial hibiscus back by one-third after the first bloom encourages a second flush of summer blooms. Deadheading Hibiscus Flowers Deadheading spent flowers keeps the plant tidy and encourages it to produce more flowers. Common Problems With Hibiscus Hibiscus is not difficult to grow however, there are some common problems to watch out for. Yellow Foliage If you see your plant's leaves turning yellow, it could be that you are subjecting it to sudden changes in weather conditions, not watering correctly, or not fertilizing often enough. Expect a little yellowing during the transitional seasons of spring and fall, but anything extreme merits further investigation. Dropping of Buds Extremes in temperature, insufficient light or humidity, and overwatering or underwatering can cause bud drop.

Lisianthus (Eustoma spp.) are tender perennials or biennials often grown as annuals. They grow about 1 to 3 feet tall, featuring bell-shaped flowers with flaring lobes that bloom on one or more upright stems. Flowers commonly come in white, pink, purple, and cream, and occasionally yellow, apricot, rose, or red. Foliage is dark green, lance-shaped, and slightly fleshy in texture. Lisianthus is in great demand for bridal bouquets and other special occasion arrangements. Starting with seeds, plants take up to six months to flower so most home gardeners start with commercial nursery plants and grow lisianthus as annuals. Lisianthus Care Lisanthus can be somewhat finicky to grow and care for but is worth the effort. They look good in mixed containers and borders and make long-lasting cut flowers. Plant nursery-grown lisianthus seedlings as annuals for best flowering in zones 7 and lower. Plant in organically rich soil with a neutral pH. Provide 6 to 8 hours of sun daily, and warm, dry conditions. Feed regularly with high-phosphorous fertilizer. Deadhead consistently for repeat blooms. Light Plant lisianthus in full sun, where it receives six to eight hours a day. In areas with very hot summers, a little afternoon shade won't hurt but consistent light exposure is key for best flowers and foliage. Soil Lisianthus prefers soil rich in organic matter such as manure, compost, or leaf mold. Soil should be well-draining and not remain waterlogged, which can lead to root rot. Raised beds and containers work well. Lisianthus flowers need a balanced soil pH between 6.5 and 7.0. Soil too acidic or alkaline causes yellowing foliage, less vigor, and fewer blooms. Water Provide about 1 inch of water per week to keep plants moist but not soggy allowing soil to dry out slightly in between. Overwatering leads to fungal diseases. Timing can be a challenge which makes drip irrigation a preferred method for establishing a consistent watering schedule. Temperature and Humidity Lisianthus prefers warm environments, thriving in temperatures between 60°F and 75°F. They tolerate drought but suffer in high humidity. It's only hardy in zones 8 and higher; lower than that, and lisianthus tends to be grown as an annual. It may survive temperatures as low as 28°F. Fertilizer Feed lisianthus regularly with flower fertilizer that has one and a half times the amount of phosphorous as nitrogen. Apply it according to package directions throughout the plant's growing season. A constant nutrient stream is necessary to produce well-branched plants with abundant blossoms. Types of Lisianthus Lisianthus varieties are distinguished by color and size with most blooming in summer. New cultivars are being introduced that continue to bloom into autumn. 'Balboa': This variety features more than a dozen flowers per plant, all in shades of blue. 'Flamenco': A heat-tolerant single flowered series in rose pink, white, and yellow. 'Maurine': A semi-dwarf, heat-tolerant variety perfect for containers on your deck and patio. Sapphire Pink Rim': Compact (5 to 6 inches tall) with white blooms and pink edges. 'Echo Blue': This tall variety (up to 34 inches) has dark blue flowers and blooms from midsummer up to frost. Pruning Proper pruning of summer bloomers can yield a second flush of flowers in autumn. Start by cutting stems back to the basal rosette after the initial bloom. Then pamper plants with regular irrigation and fertilizer and keep them free of weeds. Look for a second flowering around mid-September. Propagating Lisianthus In warm-winter zones where lisianthus is perennial, it is sometimes propagated by dividing the root ball in winter. You need a shovel, a sharp cutting tool, and a trowel. Cut back the stems and foliage to just above ground level. Dig up the entire plant with a shovel, keeping as many roots as possible including the long tap root. Divide the root ball into sections with a knife or trowel. Include some greenery or buds in each section. Immediately replant the pieces at the same level as in their original location and water thoroughly. New growth should begin within a few weeks. How to Grow Lisianthus From Seed Lisanthus grown from seed takes 5 to 6 months to reach mature flowering stage. In zones 7 and lower, start seeds indoors in late fall. In zones 8 and higher, seeds can be directly sown in the garden in late summer for bloom the following spring. You need trays or small pots, seed starter mix, plastic coverings, grow lights, potting soil, and general-purpose fertilizer. Prep seed trays. Fill trays or small pots with moistened seed starter. Scatter seeds. Scatter seed on the soil surface. Cover trays and keep warm. Cover with plastic wrap and set trays or pots under grow lights. Provide 16 hours of light daily and temperatures between 70°F and 75°F. Move grow lights closer and feed. Once the seeds sprout, remove the plastic and keep grow lights about one inch above the tops of seedlings. Maintain temperature between 60°F and 75°F, feed weekly with a general-purpose fertilizer at half strength, and do not allow soil to dry out. Transplant seedlings. At seven or eight weeks, transplant seedlings into a regular potting mix. Keep the temperature below 75°F, or the seedlings can go into dormancy. Continue with regular watering and fertilizing. Harden off and place outside. At around five months plants should be around 4 inches tall and can be hardened off for transplant into the garden once the danger of frost has passed. Potting & Repotting Lisianthus Shorter varieties grow well in containers filled with ordinary potting medium. Colors combine well in mixed containers with dianthus, coreopsis, baby's breath, and snapdragons. In zones where they remain outdoors as perennials, plants require annual repotting, going up one pot size each time. Plant nursery starts or plugs 3 to 4 inches apart in containers deep enough to accommodate the root ball. Taller varieties require deeper pots and may require staking. Tight placement allows plants to support each other. Terracotta and clay pots are good material choices. Overwintering In zones where lisianthus is perennial, cut back faded flower stalks for continued blooms and reduce feeding during winter months. Zone 7 is transitional where plants may survive if cut back to ground level and covered with a light mulch until spring. Though challenging, some gardeners find it possible to keep potted lisianthus growing indoors and flowering through winter. The trick is giving them enough bright light, controlled temperatures, and preventing common indoor pests such as mites and fungus gnats. Feed monthly with a weak diluted fertilizer. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Fungus gnats are a common pest of lisianthus, and first appear in the seedling stage. Larvae live beneath the soil, feed heavily on roots, and can devastate plants. Avoid overwatering and treat affected plants with a mild insecticide or neem oil. Apply neem oil in cases of spider mite infestation. Lisianthus are susceptible to plant viruses and stem cankers. Affected plants must be removed and discarded. How to Get Lisianthus to Bloom Finicky about growing conditions and care, lisianthus are highly valued as cut flowers with a long vase life. Bloom Months Bloom periods depend on climate and variety but in most areas plants flower in June and July with some types putting out a second flush in September or October. How Long Does Lisianthus Bloom? Each plant produces multiple flowers. From opening of the first bud to when the last flower fades can take between two and four weeks. What Do Lisianthus Flowers Look and Smell Like? Lisianthus flowers can be single or double. Compact varieties are as small as 5 to 6 inches in height, while taller varieties can reach 3 feet. Blossoms are often compared to roses and peonies with multiple petals but lisianthus have no fragrance. How to Encourage More Blooms Regular feeding and watering along with adequate light are necessary for abundant blooms. Deadhead spent flowers to encourage more blooms. Caring for Lisianthus After it Blooms In growing zones where lisianthus is perennial, cut plants back to the leaves radiating around the base of the plant after the initial bloom. In zone 7, you can try cutting back and mulching to keep lisianthus alive through the colder season. Deadheading Lisianthus Flowers Deadhead lisianthus flowers by cutting flower stems at the point where they emerge from two sets of leaves. Common Problems With Lisianthus Lack of full flowering is the most common problem but several other issues make lisianthus challenging to grow. Plants Topple Over Long stems are often too thin to support double-bloom varieties. Look for grow-through support rings or grids and other decorative stakes. Cut Flowers Don't Last Lisianthus can last up to four weeks as cut flowers. Harvest early in the day using sharp scissors to cut just above the basal leaves. Remove leaves below the waterline and trim stem bottoms before placing in the vase. Refresh water every two to three days.

The bleeding heart flower (Lamprocapnos spectabilis) gets its name from its puffy, heart shaped pink blossoms that bloom in the spring. Beneath each heart shape sticks out a white petal with a red streak. The long, arching stems give the plant a cascading effect. This plant, which is native to Asia, can reach up to three feet in maturity. In a typical growing season, it will produce around 20 small flowers on its stems and stay in bloom for several weeks throughout the spring. These are perennial plants, which means even if the bleeding heart itself disappears, it will bloom again the next year in either fall or spring. Bleeding heart plants are in the same family as poppies and are toxic to people and pets. Bleeding Heart Care Here are the basic care requirements for growing a bleeding heart: Plant bleeding heart in a shady, protected area Place roots down in the ground with the crown just below the soil Use rich, organic moist, well-draining soil Keep the soil moist but not soggy Fertilize bleeding heart plants only if your soil is poor Planting Plant a bleeding heart in partial shade and rich, well-draining soil. Plant the bleeding heart's bare roots so the crown is about 1 to 2 inches below the soil. If it's planted too deeply, the crown may rot. Protect these delicate flowers from strong winds by placing a bleeding heart in an area with a windbreak and some sun protection. A woodland garden is ideal for a bleeding heart plant. Light Bleeding heart does best in partial shade, but it can also handle full shade. Note that direct sun can cause the plant to go dormant early and cut its blooming period short. Soil Bleeding heart prefers humus-rich, moist, well-draining soil with lots of organic matter. A slightly acidic to neutral soil pH is best. Before planting, it's ideal to work a few inches of compost into the soil, especially if you don't have organically rich soil. Water Bleeding heart plants like lightly moist soil. It doesn't tolerate soggy or dry soils very well. Water throughout the growing season when the top inch of soil has dried out, even during summer dormancy to keep the roots hydrated. But make sure the soil doesn't stay waterlogged, which can lead to root rot. Temperature and Humidity Bleeding hearts' ideal temperature is between 55-75º, and it has a tolerance for high humidity. As the summer heat strengthens, you'll likely see the foliage yellowing; this is a perfectly normal sign of the plant going dormant to store its energy. Fertilizer Bleeding heart plants are not heavy feeders, so when to fertilize depends on the quality of your soil. If you have rich, organic soil that is amended every year, you likely won't have to feed at all. If you have poor soil, you can apply an all-purpose, slow-release fertilizer in the spring. Also, as a woodland plant, the bleeding heart does well with a top dressing of leaf mold. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Types of Bleeding Heart Bleeding heart bush (Lamprocapnos spectabilis), or common bleeding heart, differs in its looks, growing conditions, and hardiness from the bleeding heart vine (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), also known as the glory bower plant. When planting common bleeding heart, look for several varieties with similar growing characteristics, including: Lamprocapnos spectabilis 'Alba': This cultivar produces pure white heart-shaped flowers. Lamprocapnos spectabilis 'Gold Heart': This cultivar produces pink flowers and yellow-gold foliage but grows slightly smaller (up to 2 feet tall) than the classic bleeding heart plant. Lamprocapnos spectabilis 'Valentine': An eye-popping cultivar, this plant blooms bright cherry-red flowers with white tips and burgundy stems. Dicentra spectabilis ''White Gold': This elegant plant blooms with bright white flowers and chartreuse foliage. Dicentra spectabilis 'Ruby Gold': This unique variety features golden foliage with ruby red blooms. Pruning No major pruning is required, though you can trim back the foliage as it becomes brown and unsightly before dormancy. Refrain from deadheading (removing the spent blooms) if you want the flowers to go to seed. Propagating Bleeding Heart Bleeding heart is usually planted from nursery seedlings, but you can propagate bleeding heart from seeds, clump division, or stem cuttings. Propagation by cuttings is best done in spring to early summer. If you are starting from seeds in the garden, sow them in the fall. Here's how to propagate bleeding hearts: Propagation by Division Dig a circle around the crown of the roots and pull up the root ball. The roots grow horizontally. Do not worry when cutting through the roots. Examine the root crown; look for pink buds of growth. Cut through the root ball, leaving at least one bud per sectioned area (two to three buds per section is better). Replant the original root ball in its original spot. Plant the new section or sections in new spots or a potting mix enriched with compost or leaf mold. Water thoroughly to moisten the soil, but do not leave it too wet or soggy. Propagation by Cuttings Use sterilized pruners to take a 3- to 5-inch cutting from a healthy bleeding heart plant and take off the leaves from the bottom half of the cutting. Fill a container with potting mix and poke a hole in the center of the soil. Dip the cut end of the cutting into rooting hormone and put it into the hole. Firm the soil around the stem. Water the soil to the point that it's moist but not soggy. Put a clear plastic bag around the cutting, not touching the plant. If condensation appears on the inside of the bag, poke a hole in the plastic for some ventilation. Place the plant in indirect light. A bright windowsill will be too sunny and scorch the plant. Make sure the soil remains moist but not soggy. Once you notice new growth, the plant has successfully rooted. Remove the plastic bag. Move the bleeding heart plant outdoors once it's rooted well and new growth is more abundant. Harden off the plant in a protected spot for a few days before moving it to its permanent spot outdoors. How to Grow Bleeding Heart From Seed To start seeds indoors, place the seeds in a pot of soil. Put the pot in a plastic bag, and place it in the freezer for six to eight weeks. Remove the pot, and gradually reintroduce the plant to light and warmer conditions. The change in temperature and exposure to sunlight will allow the seeds to germinate and sprout. Bleeding hearts also tend to self-seed in the garden, though not invasively. The tiny seedlings can be carefully dug up and transplanted. Potting and Repotting Bleeding Heart Bleeding heart plants do well as container plants, and they can be grown indoors, as well, but conditions need to be right. Opt for a large container that's at least a 12-inch pot with drainage holes. Unglazed clay is best to allow excess moisture to evaporate through its walls. Use a quality, well-draining potting mix. A bleeding heart plant can live for four to five years in a large container before becoming root-bound and needing to be repotted. Either divide your plant or move up to a container that will fit its root ball with a couple of inches to spare between it and the container walls. Gently ease the plant out of its old container, and place it at the same depth in the new pot. Fill around it with potting mix, and water well. Overwintering Bleeding heart will naturally die back during the winter season. However, the roots should survive the cold weather, even if the plant appears dead above ground. As the plant depreciates before winter, you can cut the stems down to 1 or 2 inches from ground level. Keep watering the soil up until the first frost. At the start of winter, you can protect the roots and help them retain moisture by adding a 2-inch layer of mulch on top of the plant stems. Remove the mulch as the ground thaws in the spring. Common Pests & Plant Diseases When it comes to pests, bleeding heart struggles the most with aphids, scale, slugs, and snails. The easiest and least invasive treatment for aphids and scale is using an insecticidal soap or neem oil. Slugs and snails are best remedied by physically picking them off at night or in the early morning and disposing of them in a bucket of soapy water. Bleeding heart is prone to fungal diseases, including powdery mildew and leaf spot, which can be treated with a fungicide. If the plant has turned black and is foul-smelling, it's rotting and can infect other nearby plants. Pull the plant and dispose of it in a sealed bag. If it was in a container, sterilize the entire container and throw out the soil. If the diseased plant was pulled from your garden, treat the area with a fungicide. How to Get Bleeding Heart to Bloom Bleeding heart is usually a spring-blooming plant and will continue to flower into the summer until it gets too hot. Note that this plant takes some time to establish and might not flower in its first growing season. Plants that are cramped and need to be divided also might not flower or flower less than a typical bloom. To trigger the plant to flower again in the season, you can stimulate new growth by cutting the plant down to one inch above ground level. Also, ensure that the plant stays out of the direct sunlight, which can hinder blooming. Common Problems With Bleeding Heart Bleeding heart plants are not usually problematic when the growing conditions are right. Common issues stem from inadequate watering or pest and disease problems. Powdery Patches on Foliage Spots of black, gray, white, or pink powder on bleeding heart leaves indicate powdery mildew, a treatable disease when caught immediately. A fungicide will remove the problem. To prevent powdery mildew, water at the soil level (not on the foliage) and ensure the plants are not crowded and have plenty of aeration. Brown or Black Spots on the Leaves If a bleeding heart plant develops small brown or black spots on the leaves that grow larger with a yellow ring or halo with the center of the ring beginning to rot out, then the plant likely has fungal leaf spot. Treatment with a fungicide or baking soda solution can neutralize the fungus if caught early. As the disease progresses, the leaves drop and the plant will die. Yellowing Leaves A bleeding heart plant naturally turns yellow and dies back as the temperature increases. The plant is entering dormancy, which is its normal growth cycle. However, yellowing leaves can also occur if the plant is getting too much water, the soil is too alkaline, or the plant is getting too much sun. Adjust those conditions as necessary. Additionally, yellowing can also be a sign of a fungal disease emerging, such as verticillium or fusarium. A plant with this disease is not salvageable and should be destroyed before it spreads to other plants. Browning, Blackening, or Rapid Wilting of the Plant Diseases like verticillium wilt, fusarium wilt, botrytis, and root rot will cause a plant to fail quickly. Initial signs will be wilting, leading to all-over browning or the plant beginning to rot. Botrytis appears as a gray mold that overtakes the plant. If your plant is infected with these fungal issues and has begun to brown or blacken, the plant is too far gone, and fungicide will likely not help. Remove all of the soil, discard it, and sterilize the container before using it again. Seal the plant in a plastic bag before discarding it.

Gerbera daisy is native to South Africa and part of the Aster family. The varieties that you'll find at nurseries and in seed catalogs today are hybrids bred for their vividly colored flowers. Gerbera daisies are divided into four classes: single flower, semi-double flower, double flower, and spider flower. In warm climates, Gerbera daisies are grown as tender perennials that come back every year. In areas with cold winters, they are treated as annuals and planted in garden beds or containers after all danger of frost has passed in the spring. If you live in a climate where winters are cold and snowy, it is best to buy nursery-grown starter plants. Gerbera daisies establish themselves at a moderate pace, delivering their first flowers within 14 to 18 weeks and continuing to bloom throughout the summer. Gerbera Daisy Care Here are the main care requirements for growing a Gerbera daisy: Select a location that receives full sun to partial shade in the hot afternoon hours. Plant Gerbera daisies in soil that is rich in organic matter and slightly acidic. The crown of the plant should be about 1/2 inch above the soil line. Water newly planted Gerbera daisies regularly, and established plants about 1 inch of water per week. Feed them monthly during the spring and summer with a water-soluble fertilizer. To keep Gerbera daisies blooming and showy, deadhead spent blooms. Light Gerbera daisies thrive best under full sun but do not like intense heat. If you live in a particularly hot climate, try to plant your Gerbera daisies in a location with afternoon shade. Avoid planting flowers near a structure that reflects heat onto the plant, such as a foundation or stone wall. Soil Start your Gerbera daisy bed with rich soil high in organic matter and well-draining, ideally with a soil pH between 5.5 and 6.5—levels higher than this cause chlorosis, which manifests with yellow stripes on the leaves. Additionally, black spots or patches appear on the leaves if the pH level is too low. Water Water Gerbera daisies around 1 inch per week, when the soil has dried an inch or two below the surface. During hot and dry spells or when getting established, water more frequently. Only water Gerbera daisies lightly in the winter, since they are dormant during the cold months. Temperature and Humidity Gerbera daisies grow best in USDA hardiness zones 8 through 10, though they will need winter protection in zone 8. In cooler climates, gardeners grow Gerbera daisies as annuals. The flowers prefer a cool (but not cold) winter temperature of about 45°F to 50°F. Gerbera daisy plants have no special humidity needs. Fertilizer The amount of fertilizer your Gerbera daisies need depends on the quality of your soil. During the spring and summer, fertilize the plants every two weeks with a water-soluble fertilizer that is high in phosphorus and low in nitrogen. Alternatively, spread compost around the plants monthly. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Types of Gerbera Daisies ‘Terracotta’: Double-type Gerbera daisy flower with double yellow petals and a hint of peach surrounding its dark red eye ‘Winter Queen’: Crested double Gerbera daisy with white petals and a black central disk or eye ‘Giant Spinner’: Full-crested double Gerbera daisy flower with two rows of outer petals and two rows of inner petals; the first row of inner petals surrounds and covers the disk at the center Pruning Gerbera Daisies As Gerbera daisies wilt or fade and petals are about to fall off the flower head, deadhead or prune the flower stems to the leaves where they emerge. Deadheading extends the blooming period. Trim the dying bud off of Gerbera daisies before they go to seed. Pinch or trim off shabby or older fading leaves to encourage new leaf growth. Propagating Gerbera Daisies Gerbera daisies can be propagated from cuttings, divisions, or seeds. Propagation from cuttings and division are best done in the spring or summer during the most active growth period of the plant. Dividing mature plants helps to keep them vigorous, maintains air circulation around the plant, and promotes flowering. To propagate from cuttings: In the summer when there is plenty of new growth on the plant, take cuttings from the base or the side shoots. Have a new pot, fresh potting soil, and rooting hormone (optional) ready. Dip the cut end of the cutting in rooting hormone to help the cutting develop a root system faster. Plant the cutting in a pot filled with fresh, moist potting soil. Keep it out of direct sunlight and water the cutting when the soil surface feels dry to the touch. Once you see new growth and the cutting has rooted (gently wiggle the stem to test), move the pot to a location with full to partial sun. Keep it watered. Wait until the cutting has grown into a vigorous little plant before transplanting it into the landscape or a bigger container. To divide plants: In the early spring, just as the new growth starts, dig out the entire plant with all of its roots using a shovel or a spade. Have a sharp knife, a new pot or pots, and fresh potting soil (optional) ready. Cut through the roots with the knife or spade, separating the root ball into two or more parts depending on its size. Replant each part at the same depth as the original plant, or in new pots with fresh potting soil. Water each division thoroughly and keep it watered until it is established. How to Grow Gerbera Daisies From Seed Although most Gerbera daisy varieties are easily grown from seed, they are relatively slow to develop, which narrows the window of their single-season growth period, unless you start the seeds indoors in late winter or early spring. Starting Gerbera daisies from seed outdoors is feasible only in warmer climates where they won’t succumb to the first fall frosts. To grow Gerbera daisies from seed, start the seeds indoors approximately 12 to 18 weeks before the average last frost date in your region. Sow seeds in peat or paper pots, since Gerbera daisies do not like having their roots disturbed by transplanting Press the seeds gently onto the top of your soil mixture. Do not bury them—they need light to germinate. Cover your pots with plastic wrap or a lid to help keep the soil and the exposed seeds moist. Place the seeds in a warm, sunny spot (a temperature range of 70°F to 75°F is best) and wait approximately 2 to 4 weeks for germination. Transplant your seedlings outdoors after all danger of frost has passed and harden them off before planting. Potting and Repotting Gerbera Daisies Gerberas should be repotted yearly or every two years in the spring before new growth begins, especially once roots crowd the pot. Select a pot one size larger than the current one with at least one large drainage hole. Remove the Gerbera daisy by turning the current pot over in your hand, supporting the root ball. Brush away excess soil, snip browned or diseased roots, and place the root ball atop of bed of about 3 inches of new soil and fill around the sides. The root ball should sit about 1 inch beneath the rim of the new pot. Water until water comes out of the drainage holes. Overwintering If you are gardening in USDA zone 8 to 10, cut Gerbera plants back to about 1 inch above soil level before the first expected frost. The plants survive the winter outdoors if protected with mulch up to a depth of 3 to 4 inches. In zones 6 or cooler, dig up your Gerberas after pruning, pot them, and move them to a brightly lit, cool room between 45°F and 60°F for the winter. Common Pests and Diseases Gerbera daisies are easy to grow outdoors but susceptible to some pests and fungal diseases. Common Pests Aphids, whiteflies, spider mites, and thrips all feast on Gerbera daisy leaves. They're attracted to stressed plants, so keep your plants in good health and monitor them regularly for signs of trouble. Small populations are easily blasted off with a strong spray of water. To control larger populations, use insecticidal soap or natural horticultural oils like neem.1 Leafminers may also infest the leaves which will show the telltale sign of tunneling. Remove any damaged leaves. Common Diseases Powdery Mildew: While unsightly, powdery mildew is mostly an appearance issue and rarely fatal to the plants. It does stress the plant, and severe or repetitive infections weaken it and make it prone to other diseases and insect damage. Use pruners to remove the portions of your plants that have visible powdery mildew on them. If the entire plant is affected, be assured that it will subside as the season changes. Crown or Root Rot: The fungal culprit for crown or root is Phytophthora cryptogea, which causes stunted growth, affects flower production, and leads to leaf and stem wilt. The plant root appears rotted, brown, or black. If left untreated, the entire plant will die. Crown or and root rot often affects the plants when their soil is wet. Make sure not to overwater and allow the soil to dry out between waterings. However, do not leave the plant unwatered for so long that they wilt and become drought-stressed. Botrytis Blight: The fungal spores of Botrytis cinerea cause a velvety coating over infected flowers and leaf tissue. Other signs of gray mold are pock marks or brown spots on the leaf stalk and tan spots on flower petals. To prevent it, ensure good circulation around the plant during high humidity periods and water the soil, not the flowers and leaves. To treat it, remove all infected parts of the plant. Apply a fungicide formulated to treat botrytis. How to Get Gerbera Daisies to Bloom Bloom Months Gerbera daisy blooms most prolifically during the spring months and again in the fall. But the plant may bloom intermittently throughout the growing season. What Does Gerbera Daisy Look and Smell Like? A circle of ray petals in orange, red, yellow and cream hues surround a darker center disk. Flowers may be 3 to 6 inches wide. Gerbera daisy has no scent. How Do I Encourage More Blooms? Gerbera daisies generally bloom for several weeks and will flower longer with these tips: If the foliage is getting excessively bushy, remove some of the clustered center leaves to let more light in. Summer heat will often end Gerbera blooms early; consider moving them indoors in hot weather to sustain the flowers longer. Fertilize the plants every two weeks with a high-phosphorus, bloom-boosting fertilizer. Deadheading Gerbera Daisy Deadheading, or removing the spent blooms, will keep the plant looking neat and encourage further flowering. Common Problems With Gerbera Daisy Iron Deficiency Leaf yellowing on lower leaves or the yellowing of plant tissue between the green veins is usually caused by iron deficiency, which may also affect flower production. The deficiency is either caused by insufficient iron in the soil or fertilizer or by a soil pH exceeding 6.2. Other factors that impede nutrient absorption are temperatures below 68°F, soggy soil, and rotten or damaged roots, Check temperatures, soil moisture, pH levels, and root health to determine the cause. If needed lower the soil pH or add iron chelates to the soil. Avoiding overwatering. Wilting Plant Overwatering or under-watering a Gerbera daisy can cause it to wilt. Excessive heat may also be the culprit; water deeply and, if necessary, move the plant out of direct sunlight during midafternoon hours.

If you're looking for a low-maintenance, drought-tolerant, long-blooming flower to fill a bed or line a border, coreopsis plants (Coreopsis spp.) are a perfect choice. With over 80 varieties of coreopsis, there's a variety to suit every garden design. These showy, daisy-like flowers don't have much of a scent, but the foliage has an anise-like smell. They are native to North America, growing in upright clumps and flowering throughout the summer. The species' foliage varies, with some varieties boasting large green leaves and others sporting narrower greenery. One of the plant's common names, tickseed, is a nod to its round seeds, which resemble ticks. Plants in the coreopsis species have a moderate growth rate and are best planted in the spring after all risk of frost has passed. This hardy plant's perennial varieties grow in USDA zones 2 through 8, dying back after frost and returning in the spring; in the coldest zones, add a few inches of mulch to protect its underground roots. Annual varieties will start blooming in early summer and repeat bloom periodically through the fall, while perennial varieties will begin blooming the second year after planting from seed. Coreopsis Care Overall, coreopsis plants don't require much care when grown in their preferred environment. Select a planting site with lots of sun and good soil drainage. Also, don't forget to account for the mature size of your species—when planting, leave some space around each plant for air circulation. The taller coreopsis varieties might need staking as they mature; otherwise, the stems might flop over. Moreover, deadheading your plants (removing the spent blooms) can keep the plant blooming throughout summer and into fall. Light Coreopsis plants will grow and bloom best in full sun, which means at least six to eight hours of direct light on most days. They can also grow in partial sun, but the plants might be lankier and not flower as profusely. In climates with very hot summers, some afternoon shade is welcome. Soil These plants thrive in well-draining, loamy or sandy soil with a fairly neutral soil pH. However, most coreopsis varieties are straightforward to grow and aren't particular about soil quality or soil pH as long as they aren't waterlogged. Some of the most profuse blooming comes from coreopsis plants growing on the untamed border of roadways or other "forgotten" areas. Heavy, wet clay soils should be amended with compost to help drainage. Water New coreopsis plants need regular water to keep the soil evenly moist (but not soggy) until they are established. After their first year, these plants have good drought tolerance, but they'll bloom most prolifically with regular watering. Water deeply whenever the soil is dry, about an inch down. Early morning watering is best—it allows the leaves a chance to dry out during the day. Temperature and Humidity Coreopsis plants like warm temperatures between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and 50 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit at night. High humidity levels typically aren't an issue for these plants as long as they have good air circulation and proper watering and drainage. That being said, various species of coreopsis have differing levels of cold tolerance. Fertilizer Fertilizer isn't necessary for coreopsis plants unless you have very poor soil. Too much fertilizer can promote excessive foliage growth at the expense of the plant flowering.1 To boost your plants, you can mix a little compost into the soil at the beginning of spring. Types of Coreopsis There are dozens of species and varieties of coreopsis, which mostly differ in appearance rather than care. Some of the most popular varietals for outdoor cultivation include: Coreopsis grandiflora 'Early Sunrise': A variety with large, semi-double, bright yellow flowers that start blooming in early summer Coreopsis grandiflora 'Golden Showers': A variety with profuse yellow blooms on longer-than-average stems Coreopsis verticillata 'Moonbeam': A variety with buttery yellow flowers and a compact, dense shape Coreopsis rosea 'Nana': A mauve-pink dwarf variety that spreads nicely but lacks drought tolerance Pruning Cutting back the top of a declining perennial to the ground or near ground level will promote vigorous new growth, rejuvenating the plant. To encourage continuous blooming, you can cut back during the growing season, staggering sections of your coreopsis flower patch weekly. Propagating Coreopsis Although perennial coreopsis are resilient plants, they don't tend to live more than three to five years. A decrease in flowering is a good signal that it's time to divide the plants (or to plant some new ones from seed) to propagate them. The best time to divide your plant is the spring or early fall—here's how: First, carefully dig up a clump of a mature plant, leaving the roots as intact as possible. Use a sharp trowel to split the clump into smaller sections, ensuring several healthy roots are present on each section. Replant the sections in a suitable growing site. Keep the new plants well-watered until they're established and show visible signs of growth, which can take several weeks. How to Grow Coreopsis From Seed Many coreopsis varieties can be grown from seed and often will reseed themselves in your garden. Start seeds indoors six to eight weeks before your area's projected last frost date, or directly plant seeds in your garden after your last frost. Plant the seeds roughly 1/2-inch deep, and keep the soil lightly moist and warm. Seedlings should emerge in about two to three weeks, at which point you can put the seedlings by a sunny window and continue to keep the soil lightly moist. Indoor seedlings must be slowly acclimatized to the outdoors by taking them outside for long stretches each day for about a week. Then, they're ready to be planted in the garden. Potting and Repotting Coreopsis Coreopsis can be grown in containers. If you start them in seedling containers, you can size them up and transplant them into larger ones. Coreopsis need containers at least 8 to 10 inches deep and wide with ample drainage holes. This plant's roots do not tolerate soggy, standing water. After several years, if the plant's roots appear to grow out of drainage holes, it's time to divide the plant, as noted in the section about propagation. Once divided, replant the divided part in its container and backfill the rest with fresh soil. Place the container in a spot with at least six to eight hours of full sun. In the hot summer months, give more water than if it's in the ground. Containers heat up, and water evaporates from potting soil much sooner than in-ground plants. Overwintering Coreopsis are hardy plants. You don't have to give these plants winter protection, but if you have the perennial variety that returns annually, you can keep the roots healthy by ensuring the plant receive regular water up until the first frost. Cut back the stems down to the ground. Insulate the roots by layering 2 to 3 inches of mulch at the soil surface. Remove the mulch after the threat of frost is over. Common Pests & Plant Diseases For the most part, coreopsis plants grow problem-free. But they might fall prey to snails, slugs, mildew, and fungal diseases in wet seasons. Before turning to pesticides and fungicides, improve your plant's environment. Ensure it has plenty of air circulation to ward off pests and fungal problems. And note whether it's getting enough sunlight. Divide overgrown clumps where the centers aren't getting much air or light. How to Get Coreopsis to Bloom One of the most critical factors in ensuring your coreopsis blooms each season is planting the flowers in an area with full sun—ample light for at least 6 to 8 hours. If you notice that your plant is struggling to bloom, too much shade may be to blame. If there's not a spot in your landscape that boasts six to eight hours of direct light a day, plant your coreopsis in a pot so you can move it around your lawn occasionally to "chase" the light. It's important to reiterate that coreopsis does not need fertilizer. Giving fertilizer can cause the plant to grow disproportionally, making the plant put all of its energy into developing its stem and leaves and not enough energy into bud production. If your coreopsis could use a boost, add organic matter as compost to the soil instead. Common Problems With Coreopsis Coreopsis is an easy plant to care for. They are occasionally susceptible to bugs and diseases when their environmental factors are managed well. Ensure they get water, sun, and the correct soil when planting them. Yellowing Leaves Yellowing leaves are usually caused by overwatering or insufficient nutrition. Coreopsis does not require fertilizer unless it grows in poor soil; then, it might need a nutritional boost. If your plant has soggy soil, let it dry out before watering again. Instead of putting the plant on a regular watering regimen, only water it when the soil feels dry, about two inches under the surface. The plant may have an iron or magnesium deficiency if you notice yellow patches between leaf veins. With a magnesium deficiency, the leaf's center yellows then the edges turn yellow last. Signs of an iron deficiency can appear as young leaves on tops, and branch tips turn yellow first. A sulfur deficiency is primarily indicated when the newest leaves are entirely yellow. Your plant might have a potassium deficiency if the oldest leaf's edges turn bright yellow, but the leaf center remains green. A nitrogen deficiency causes the yellowing of the older inner leaves first; the rest of the plant shortly follows, moving outwardly with its yellowing. Sunburned Leaves Although coreopsis is a full sun plant, it can still get sunburned if it is indoors as a seedling and then is brought outdoors too suddenly without any acclimatizing. If the leaves suddenly turn yellow, white, or brown, they may have received too much sun too quickly. You can tell apart sunburn from other issues by turning over the leaf and inspecting the underside; sunburn is the likely culprit if it looks green and generally unaffected. Gradually harden off the plants by exposing them to a small amount of direct sun each day before planting them in the ground or bringing their container outdoors permanently.

One of the most powerful garden scents of spring comes from hyacinth flowers (Hyacinthus orientalis) in bloom. Even at a distance, you'll notice these flowers' intense fragrance and the spikes of bright tubular flowers emerging from strap-shaped leaves. Introduced to Europe during the 16th century, hyacinth's popularity sparked Dutch bulb growers to breed more than 2,000 cultivars by the 18th century, and today there are about 60 to choose from in commercial cultivation. Modern hyacinths are some of the easiest-to-grow perennial spring bulbs. Hyacinths will return every year, though their flowers will diminish in vigor after a few seasons. They are best planted in the fall and have a moderate growth rate. Hyacinths can grow outdoors in the ground or pots, as well as indoors in a bulb vase filled with water. Keep them out of the reach of kids and critters as the bulbs are toxic to humans and pets. Hyacinth Care Here are the main care requirements for growing hyacinth: Plant in a slightly acidic to neutral soil in full sun to partial shade. Water well after the bulbs are planted, but allow the ground to dry before the next watering. Bulbs can be fertilized upon planting. Grow hyacinth in large groups for the strongest and farthest-reaching scent. Planting Most varieties of hyacinth bulbs are fairly large. For spring garden blooms, plant hyacinth bulbs in the fall six to eight weeks before the first frost (between October and December). They should be placed root end down (widest side down) about 4 to 6 inches deep. Give them some room to spread out by spacing them about 3 to 6 inches apart. Cover with soil, and water well. Light Hyacinths like full sun to partial shade. Aim to give the plants at least six to eight hours of sunlight a day. As with all spring bulbs, hyacinths sprout, bloom, and start to fade before deciduous trees fully leaf out, so you don't have to worry about too much shade from nearby trees. Soil Hyacinth bulbs are not particular about soil pH, but they prefer a slightly acidic to neutral soil. They also do best in soil that is loose and well-drained; they will not tolerate wet soils. Rich soil can lead to floppy stalks, so go easy on the organic matter when preparing or amending the soil. Water Water the ground well after you plant the bulbs. Continue watering into winter if there is no regular rain, but allow the ground to dry out between watering. If the bulbs sit in cool, wet soil, they will eventually rot. Check the ground by sticking your finger in, and water only when it's totally dry. Usually, this is once or twice a week, depending on your climate. Generally speaking, about 1/2 inch of water per week—combined irrigation and rainfall—will be sufficient for hyacinths. But this depends on how well the soil drains. Temperature and Humidity Hyacinths can be expected to survive the winter in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 to 8. They might need some winter protection in colder zones and some pre-chilling in warmer zones, depending on the variety. In zones where winter temperatures remain above 60 degrees Fahrenheit, dig up the bulbs and chill them somewhere dark and cold for six to 10 weeks before replanting. Fertilizer The easiest way to feed new bulbs is to toss some bulb food into the hole at planting time. There are many fertilizers available for feeding bulbs—10-10-10 is recommended—or you can use an ordinary bone meal. Feed the bulbs a mere handful at planting and again in the spring when the new growth first appears by scratching some bulb food into the nearby soil and watering well. For the amount to use, follow the product label instructions. Types of Hyacinth Modern hyacinths come in many colors. Some varieties include: 'Hollyhock': Offers striking reddish-pink double blooms 'Pink Pearl': Has fuchsia petals that are edged in pale pink 'Woodstock': Boasts deep plum petals 'Blue Jacket': Features a denser bloom structure and deep purple-blue flowers 'Top White': Offers bright white florets that are star-shaped 'City of Haarlem': This heirloom variety has been popular since the late 1800s and features yellow petals that mature to a pale yellow-creamy white. How to Force Hyacinth Bulbs It’s possible to force hyacinth bulbs indoors into early blooming. Simply plant a bulb in a container filled with well-draining potting mix, ensuring that the container also has drainage holes. The bulb tip should be just above the soil line. Place the container in a dark spot that remains between 33 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Allow it to sit there for at least 10 weeks as roots develop. Green shoots will also start to grow. Once the shoots grow to around an inch, start to slowly increase light and warmth. Water to keep the soil lightly moist but never waterlogged, and avoid hitting the shoots when watering. Once the plant has buds, move it to a sunny window with bright, indirect light to wait for your flowers to open. Pruning Once the bulbs have finished blooming, cut off the flower stalks but allow the leaves to remain. This will encourage the plants to store energy in their bulbs for next season. Propagating Hyacinth Like most perennial bulbs, hyacinths are best propagated by splitting offset bulbs from the parent plant in the fall. This method can take two or three years before the bulblet grows to a size sufficient to produce large, vibrant flowers. Thus, propagating hyacinths is an activity best practiced by serious enthusiasts. Here's how to propagate hyacinths by splitting off the offset bulbs: After the flowers have faded but before the foliage has begun to turn brown (usually in late summer or fall), dig up a mature hyacinth with a trowel. Make sure to wear gloves when handling hyacinths, as the bulbs have toxins that can cause skin irritation. Wash off the soil, and separate the clump into individual bulbs—the parent bulb and bulblets. Replant the bulbs immediately into well-draining soil. Mixing in sand or compost is a good idea if your soil is dense. A handful of bone meal or bulb fertilizer is also recommended at planting time. How to Grow Hyacinth From Seed While hyacinths can be propagated from seed, it can take several years to coax the seed into creating a bulb and to nurture the bulb into a sizable structure that will produce a flowering plant. First, you’ll have to allow your hyacinth blooms to remain on the plant to form seed pods. These pods will ripen from green to tan as they form small black seeds inside. The pods will dry and split open; you can catch the seeds by putting a white sheet under the plant or wrapping pantyhose around the flowers themselves. Separate the seeds, and soak them in warm water for one to two days. Place them between two moist paper towels in a plastic bag, and put them in the refrigerator to sprout. Once they’ve sprouted, slightly press them into a seed tray filled with moist seed-starting mix, and place them in a cold frame or greenhouse to continue growing. Potting and Repotting Hyacinth When planting in pots, either plastic or clay will do as long as they have good drainage. The container should be roughly 6 inches deep. The width of the container depends on how many bulbs you are planting. Hyacinth bulbs in pots can be spaced more closely than when planted in the ground because the bulbs won't need room to multiply. You can squeeze them in so they are almost touching, but leave room for some soil in between to hold water. Repotting should not be necessary if you have properly spaced your bulbs. Ordinary commercial potting soil is fine for planting hyacinths in containers, though some people like to blend in a little sand with the potting mix. Keep the potting medium damp but not soaking wet until the bulbs sprout. Then, water whenever the soil dries out. Once the bulbs have sprouted, move them to indirect sunlight. Cool temperatures will keep them in bloom longer. Overwintering In colder zones (USDA zones 2 and 3), applying a thick layer of mulch over the bulb bed can allow hyacinth bulbs to survive cold winters. You also can position the bulbs an inch or two deeper at the time of planting to help insulate them. In zones 4 to 8, no winter protection should be necessary. However, if your hyacinths are outdoors in containers, cover them or move them to a sheltered spot to prevent the containers from accumulating too much moisture and rotting the bulbs. If you are growing hyacinths in zone 9 or above, where winter temperatures stay above 60 degrees Fahrenheit, you will need to dig up your bulbs and chill them artificially before replanting. Store them in a mesh bag in a cool, dark spot that remains above freezing but below 45 degrees Fahrenheit for 10 weeks minimum. Common Pests & Plant Diseases All kinds of rodents will munch on hyacinth bulbs. You can give them some protection by throwing a handful of gravel into the planting hole, or you can try commercial rodent deterrents. An easier method is to interplant them with daffodils, which rodents tend to avoid.5 Few plant diseases affect hyacinths, but the bulbs can rot when planted in dense soil that doesn't drain well. How to Get Hyacinth to Bloom Bloom Months Hyacinth typically blooms in mid-spring, between March and April. Blooms can last for a few weeks, usually until the end of April and sometimes May. What Does Hyacinth's Flowers Look and Smell Like? Hyacinth flowers feature long, bright green leaves and bell-shaped petals. The bright tubular flowers that come in many colors such as white, blue, purple, pink, and red. The blooms have a sweet floral scent that can be powerful. Hyacinth also mix well with other spring-blooming bulbs, as they come in so many colors and sizes. Their spiky flower stalks make a nice counterpoint to cup-shaped tulips and ruffled daffodils. How to Encourage More Blooms Hyacinth bulbs are generally low-maintenance and bloom quite easily on their own in the spring. That being said, you can give yours a leg up by cutting down the flower stalk when this year's blooms fade. Then, when its leaves turn yellow, cut them away as well. Feed them once they bloom, and again in August, to give them a boost for the following spring. But be aware that most gardeners find it necessary to replant hyacinths (or lift and divide them) every two or three years to keep them blooming robustly. Like many hybrid bulbs, hyacinths lose their vigor rather quickly. Common Problems With Hyacinth The hyacinth is a reliable plant that will give you several years of aromatic blooms, but occasionally there are unfortunate issues. Spotted Foliage If you've had a late frost after the foliage has appeared, hyacinth leaves can develop disfiguring spots. Sadly, there is not much you can do about it, but in some cases, it will not affect the flower stalks that later appear. Broken, Streaked Petals Broken and streaked petals can be caused by the mosaic virus, which also can cause mottled leaves. Infected plants will need to be dug up and thrown away. Sterilize any tools you use to do this; they, too, can spread the disease. Small Flowers It is normal for hyacinths to bloom less robustly with every subsequent season. You can prolong their lifespan by regular feeding. Propagating new plants by dividing mature hyacinths can keep you in blooming plants almost indefinitely. Taller varieties can tend to flop. You can stake them if you only have a few, or plant them closer together so that they support one another.

Snapdragons (Antirrhinum majus) are popular perennials usually grown as annuals with a short-lived blooming period. The name comes from the shape of the individual flower heads, which look like the snout of a dragon. Bright snapdragon flowers bloom well in cool weather with intensely saturated colors (in almost every hue) and are real standouts in either the spring or fall garden. They come in many varieties and sizes; you can find one to suit your needs at a few inches, four feet, or anything in between. Snapdragons are great plants for containers, baskets, or filling garden wall crevices as they can fit a variety of areas. From germination to flowering takes about two or three months, and as a result are often started indoors weeks—or even months—before the last frost. Snapdragon Care Snapdragons are rather slow-growing when planted from seeds, so they are normally planted from purchased nursery seedlings, which are widely sold in economical six-packs. They can also be grown fairly easily from seeds started indoors weeks before the last winter frost. They do best in rich, well-draining soil in a sunny location, though they'll tolerate part shade. Pinching off the stem tips on young plants will make them bushier, and deadheading the spent flowers will extend the bloom season, often right until the first frost. Light Snapdragons will bloom most profusely in full sun to partial shade. Once the temperature heats up, they may stop blooming altogether. Planting them in part shade and keeping them well-watered will help them make it through the summer and they will likely bloom again in fall. Soil Snapdragons like a neutral soil pH between 6.2 and 7.0, rich in nutrients and well-draining. As short-lived plants, they are not heavy feeders, but adding organic matter will help keep them healthy and blooming. Water Keep seedlings moist for the first few weeks. Once established, snapdragon will need approximately one inch of water per week in times of no rainfall. Water near the crown of the plant and avoid overhead watering to keep your snapdragon healthy. Once established, let the top inch of soil dry fully before watering. Temperature and Humidity Snapdragons are tender perennials that are hardy in USDA zones 7-11. They prefer cooler temperatures and are at their best when nighttime temperatures are in the low 40s and daytime temperatures are in the low 70s. For this reason, they are usually grown as annuals. Once established, snapdragons can withstand sub-freezing temperatures. If you make sure they stay well-watered during cold spells and add a layer of pine straw mulch, they can last for quite some time and will survive quite low temperatures until the chill has passed. Snapdragons prefer average humidity within the 40 to 70 percent range. Fertilizer Apply fertilizer when the plants first start producing flowers. Use a standard, well-balanced all-purpose fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10 product, at a rate of three pounds for every 100 square feet of the flowerbed. Water well after fertilizing. Types of Snapdragon Snapdragons are usually sold as multi-color blends, but you can sometimes find individual colors in both seeds and seedlings. Named varieties come and go every few years, but some of the more classic series include: Rocket series: This is a very dependable multi-colored series that grows about 2-3 ft. tall. It is a mainstay of the garden center offerings. Madame Butterfly mix: These 24- to 30-inch plants have heavily ruffled flowers in all colors, and are an excellent choice for cut-flower arrangements. Tutti Frutti: This shorter 10- to 12-inch series offers unique speckled and striped flowers. Candy Tops mix: These are short, 6- to 8-inch plants in solid tones of yellow, orange, white, red, and rose. They make excellent edging and bedding plants. Chandelier mix: This is one of the better trailing, draping snapdragons, with flowers that are lilac, pink, or yellow. Propagating Snapdragons Snapdragons are fairly inexpensive to purchase as nursery seedlings and easy to grow from seeds, but if you wish you can also propagate them from stem cuttings. Cut a 2-inch section of stem just below a leaf node on a healthy parent plant. Remove the lower leaves and dip the bottom of the cutting in rooting hormone. Plant the cutting into seed starter mix or potting soil, covering the pot with a plastic bag or dome to keep the cutting humid. Once a good root system develops, remove the cover and continue growing in a bright window or under artificial lighting. Transplant outside shortly after the last frost. How Grow Snapdragons from Seed In milder climates, snapdragons can be winter-sown. They can also be direct-sown in the garden a few weeks before the last expected frost. Snapdragons are relatively slow-growing, so they are often started indoors six to 12 weeks before the last expected frost. Use a general seed starting mix or ordinary potting soil, and press the seeds onto the surface of the soil. Position the tray under bright lights—the seeds need light to germinate. Keep the light on for 16 hours per day. When seedlings have developed about six true leaves, pinch off the top of the stem, which will encourage branching and bushiness. Transplant snapdragons outdoors a couple of weeks before your last frost date. Snapdragons can handle a light frost or two. Overwintering These short-lived perennials are usually grown as annuals. Even when they do overwinter, snapdragons never seem to bloom as robustly as they did in their first year. However, they should form seed pods in the first year; if you are lucky, they may even self-sow in the garden. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Rust fungus can be a significant problem with snapdragons. If rust does appear in a planting, it is best to grow snapdragons in another part of the garden the following year. This plant is also susceptible to mold, fungal leaf spots, downy mildew, wilt, and root rots.1 Aphids and spider mites are the most common pest problem, which may require the use of pesticides or horticultural oils in severe infestations. How to Get Snapdragon to Bloom Snapdragons are known for their colorful blooms. They start blooming in early spring and keep blooming all season long. They are short-lived perennials that act like annuals and don't usually flower for more than one season. The right amount of sunlight is the secret sauce to getting your snapdragons to bloom. From full sun to partial shade, adjusting the amount of sun your plants get is the answer. Deadheading the dying flowers will keep your plant blooming abundantly. Common Problems With Snapdragon Snapdragons are a never-go-out-of-style summertime bloom. They're bright and cheery, and memorable additions to the summer months. But sometimes, snapdragons have easy-to-fix problems: Wilting Leaves, Fewer Flowers Snapdragons will start to falter if they get too much heat and sunlight. Move them to a cooler, shadier spot, and trim them down to encourage new blooms and less wilting. Yellow and Brown Flecks on the Leaves Snapdragons often get a fungal disease called snapdragon rust: yellow flecks are the first sign, and those flecks may get darker and larger, with brown or black centers. To treat snapdragon rust, stop it before it starts. Thin out your plants and let air circulate around them. Also, don't water your snapdragons at night. Plants Toppling Over In shady spots, where snapdragons can get particularly leggy, taller varieties may get top-heavy and fall over. The fix is easy: protect plants with supports to keep them standing tall.

Blanket flower, also known as gaillardia, is an easy-to-grow, short-lived wildflower with richly colored, daisy-like blooms. These fast-growing plants mature to 24 inches tall with a 20-inch spread. This garden favorite puts out large showy blossoms in shades of orange, red, yellow, white, purple, and peach throughout the warm season. Gaillardias are such long-blooming perennials that they work equally well in borders and containers. Blanket flowers do well with other heat-loving plants that thrive in full sun. The flower can reseed and easily sprawl through your garden and can be divided after two years to reinvigorate the plant. Blanket flowers are usually planted from nursery starts, but grow easily from seeds planted directly in the garden after the last frost date (or started indoors about four to six weeks early). If grown from seed they bloom in their second year but plants purchased from nurseries are typically ready to bloom. The plant is fully hardy in USDA Zones 3 to 10. The blanket flower is slightly toxic to humans. Blanket Flower Care Here are the main care requirements for growing blanket flowers. Plant blanket flowers in full sun. Put blanket flowers in poor, but well-draining soil; avoid planting this flower in clay soil. Water to moisten the soil, but do not oversaturate. Blanket flower tolerates temperature extremes. Avoid feeding blanket flowers fertilizer or go light on food. Planting Put blanket flowers in a hot, sunny spot in the spring after the last frost. If you live in a climate with mild winters, it's fine to plant blanket flowers in the fall. Plant seedlings about a foot apart or simply scatter seeds on raked soil. Light Give blanket flowers a space with full sun where they thrive best. Although blanket flowers can handle some partial shade, they will get a bit floppy and will not flower as profusely. Soil Do not amend the soil with rich matter because blanket flowers prefer poor soil. The plant is not particular about soil pH, but it does need well-draining soil. It will grow in somewhat moist conditions, but heavy clay soil will probably kill it. Water Check the soil of new plants frequently (every other day or so) to ensure the soil is moist but not soggy an inch below the soil line. Once established, gaillardia is extremely drought tolerant. It can go without watering unless there are extremely hot and dry conditions, then it's best to water the bed once or twice per week. Avoid overwatering. Temperature and Humidity The blanket flower can survive hot temperatures, even in full sun. They do not require a humid environment and do better in hot, dry climates over cool, moist ones. Fertilizer Go easy or avoid fertilizing blanket flowers. Poor soils seem to encourage more flowering than rich soils.

Texas Star hibiscus is a striking, easy-to-grow perennial across many hardiness zones. A native plant to the Southeastern United States, you can find it growing in swampy, coastal areas from Georgia to Florida. Learn how to add and care for this exotic beauty in your garden. Texas Star Hibiscus Care Texas Star hibiscus blooms in late summer to early fall with large, up to six-inch-wide flowers that last one day. While there is a profusion of blooms during the season, the deep green foliage and buds add to the striking effect. To have a healthy plant that produces dozens of dramatic scarlet blooms year after year, follow these guidelines for Texas Star hibiscus: Plant in an area that receives at least 6 hours of sun daily. While the soil should be well-draining, Texas Star hibiscus requires consistently moist soil to thrive. As a quick-growing plant, it requires monthly fertilization during the growing season. Texas Star hibiscus can be pruned to control its size, but flowers will only appear on new growth. Light Texas Star is at its best when grown in full sun. If the area receives partial shade, there will be fewer blooms and a leggy plant. Soil Native to low-lying, swampy areas of the Southeast, Texas Star hibiscus grows well in sand, silt, or loam. While it can tolerate wet feet, it performs best in well-draining, slightly acidic soil. Water Consistently moist soil is a must for Texas Star and overwatering is not an issue if the soil drains well. During hot, dry periods, supplemental irrigation is needed. Add several layers of organic mulch around the plant to help preserve soil moisture. Temperature and Humidity Texas Star enjoys the high temperatures and humidity of the deep South. Cold temperatures can cause damage or dieback, so once temperatures fall to near or below freezing, protect the plant with layers of mulch or burlap. Even if dieback occurs, the plant may produce new growth in the spring. Fertilizer Because Texas Star is a vigorous grower, apply a balanced NPK liquid fertilizer once a month during the spring and summer. Pruning Texas Star does not require pruning unless you want to control the height and shape of the plant. Since blooms appear on new growth, pruning can reduce the number of blooms. Deadheading the spent flowers is not necessary, but not harmful, either. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Propagating Texas Star Hibiscus The best time to propagate Texas Star hibiscus is in the spring once new growth has appeared. Old wood will not root well. Cut a 5- to 6-inch cutting from the end of a stem using clean, sharp pruners. Dip the cut end of the stem into rooting hormone. Fill a 6-inch container with potting soil and water it well. Press the cutting about 3 inches deep into a container. Place the container in an area with bright but indirect sunlight. Keep the soil moist until the cuttings have rooted. Covering the container with a plastic bag will help preserve moisture. Transplant the hibiscus into a larger container or the garden when several sets of leaves have developed. How to Grow Texas Star Hibiscus From Seed With so many blooms producing seed pods, Texas Star often self-seeds in the garden, but you can collect the seeds to start indoors. In the fall, allow pods to dry and turn brown. Collect them and pop open the pods to remove the seeds. Save the seeds until spring and sow them indoors in seed starter trays about 6 weeks before the last predicted frost. Keep the soil warm and moist in an area with bright, indirect light. The seeds will germinate in about 10-12 days. When the danger of frost has passed, transplant the seedlings to individual pots and harden them off before transplanting into the garden. Potting and Repotting If growing Texas Star in a container, select one that is large enough to support the height and quick growth of this perennial. Add a supporting trellis if the container is placed in a breezy area. Place the container in a sunny area and keep the soil evenly moist. Water twice a day on days with high temperatures. Apply a water-soluble balanced fertilizer once a month. Repot to a larger container when the plant becomes root-bound. Overwintering When cold temperatures arrive, the plant will naturally die back. You can remove the foliage, leaving stems about 4 to 6 inches above the soil line. Container-grown Texas Star plants should be clipped back and moved to a protected area during the winter but watered regularly to keep the soil moist. If planted in the garden, add a thick layer of mulch to protect the roots from cold temperatures, or add a burlap cover. How to Get Texas Star Hibiscus to Bloom If your Texas Star is planted in full sun, gets regular fertilizer feedings during the growing season, and has plenty of water, it should produce a profusion of blooms. Bloom Months In the southern U.S., blooms can appear in May and last through October. In cooler growing areas, the blooms typically appear during June or July and into the fall. How Long Does Texas Star Hibiscus Bloom? Each Texas Star hibiscus bloom only lasts one day. However, the plant will produce flowers for 4 to 6 months. What Do Texas Star Hibiscus Flowers Look and Smell Like? Texas Star hibiscus flowers are large, up to 6 inches across. They are bright red to burgundy with four to five petals and a showy center stamen. The flowers do not have a detectible scent to humans, but are attractive to hummingbirds, butterflies, and other pollinators. How to Encourage More Blooms If your Texas Star is not blooming, it is not getting enough water and sunlight. Enhance the nutrients in the soil with monthly feedings with a balanced fertilizer. Deadheading Texas Star Hibiscus Flowers If you find the spent flowers unattractive, you can deadhead the blooms but it is not necessary. Deadheading will also reduce the number of seed pods if you don't want the plants to self-sow in the garden. Caring for Texas Star Hibiscus After It Blooms At the end of the growing season, the plant will naturally die back. You can cut the stems within 4 to 6 inches of the soil. New growth will appear in the spring. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Insects like grasshoppers, aphids, Hibiscus whiteflies, mealybugs, thrips, and scale might attack your Texas Star. Most pests can be controlled with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil sprays. If the infestation is mild, blast away the pests with a stream of water. The plants are susceptible to blight, rust, canker, and leaf spot. If these fungal diseases become an issue, apply neem oil and remove and discard the affected branches. Common Problems As a native perennial, this plant is resistant to most problems. It can tolerate overly wet roots and salt spray but it is not deer-resistant. If you notice yellow leaves, you may be over- or under-watering or the plant is not getting enough sunlight. Adjust your care or transplant Texas Star to a new location.

Sweet William (Dianthus barbatus) is an herbaceous perennial or biennial that is often planted as an annual flower. It is a very slow-growing plant that will eventually reach a height of about 2 feet. The flowering plant, with average pointed green leaves, produces blooms in vibrant shades that attract pollinators like butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds. This plant does best in full sun and is best suited for use in cottage gardens, perennial beds, or containers. Sweet William is generally easy to grow and likes regular water, but not oversaturation. Sweet William is mildly toxic to pets and people,1 so make sure to plant in an area that pets don't have access to. Sweet William Care Sweet William is easy to grow provided the following needs are met. Plant in rich, well-drained soil. Space plants about 8 inches apart as bedding plants to allow for the dense foliage that appears during the first year. Provide full, filtered sun but partial shade in hot temperatures. Irrigate regularly, but be careful not to overwater. Light Unless you live in a hotsouthern region, sweet William likes a full sun position over any shade. They can tolerate light shade, but too much of it results in leggy, floppy plants. In hot regions, some afternoon shade is best to help prolong the bloom time. Soil Sweet William can tolerate many soil types, except wet, heavy conditions. A well-drained, fertile, loamy site is ideal. The plants can survive in soils with various pH levels too but often do best in a neutral to slightly alkaline one. Some growers add lime to the soil before planting. Water Water sweet William regularly through the growing season, but take care not to overwater. Waterlogged conditions promote fungal diseases in this species.2 A moist but not saturated substrate is best. Temperature and Humidity For a flowering plant, sweet William is relatively cold-hardy. It can survive light frosts, but deep freezes will result in the plant dying down. This species doesn't do well with high humidity, and temperatures above 85° Fahrenheit can result in dormancy. Fertilizer Sweet William should be fed with an all-purpose fertilizer every 6 to 8 weeks while they are growing. For the amount to use, follow product label instructions. Pruning Late winter or early spring is the best time to prunesweet William. Cut at the spot just above the leaf nodes, as this is where new growth will spring from. If the plant is too bushy, trim off the stem tips. To encourage airflow, thin out the stems removing any that have become leggy and weak. Propagating Sweet William Propagating sweet William from cuttings is possible. However, because these plants are short-lived, many people simply purchase cold-treated plants during the spring to grow them as annuals. Potting and Repotting Sweet William plants do well in containers and planters due to their compact size. The pots can be grown indoors or out. Choose a 5-inch or slightly larger container with adequate drainage holes and fill with a rich potting mix and add a little compost. Place the containers in areas with full sun such as a windowsill. If you notice any water pooling or root congestion, you should move the plant to a larger pot. The best time to do this is in the Spring before another growth spurt. Choose a pot that is a few inches larger in diameter than its current home. Terra-cotta or unglazed ceramic pots are best for breathability and drainage. Add new soil and care for your sweet William as usual. How to Grow Sweet William From Seed Sweet William is easy to grow from seed, but they don't typically bloom the first year. The seed can be sown into the ground in the late spring or early summer when there is no danger of frost. They prefer cool temperatures of around 50 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit and consistently moist soil for germination. Temperatures above 65 degrees Fahrenheit can result in weak, leggy growth. These plants don't like to be overcrowded, so, as the seeds germinate, thin them out so there is adequate air circulation. If you want to see blooms in the first year of planting, you could try sowing the seeds indoors in cell packs or containers six to eight weeks before the last spring frost. Harden them off and transplant the seedlings outside once the danger of frost has passed. Overwintering Protect your sweet William plants from the winter cold by cutting back dead foliage and blooms after flowering, but don't prune in the fall. Let the rest of the dead foliage fall to the ground to create a layer of protective mulch. Add to this a few more inches of mulch to insulate roots. If your plants are in containers outdoors, move pots away from areas that suffer from wind, snow, and ice. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Fungal diseases like rust and crown rot can be a problem for sweet William if it is planted in poorly drained soil or overwatered. It is also attractive to slugs and snails.3 How to Get Sweet Williams to Bloom Bloom Months Under the correct conditions, sweet Williams can flower from May through to October in their flowering year. How Long Does Sweet William Bloom? Sweet William flowers will stay vibrant for up to ten days before fading. How to Encourage More Blooms Ensuring sweet William has moist but well-drained soil is crucial for healthy and abundant bloom production. Overly hot temperatures also impact flowering capabilities. What Do Sweet William Flowers Look and Smell Like? With their small clusters of flowers, sweet William offers a splash of color right through the summer. Their bright range of colors includes reds, pinks, whites, purples, and bicolors. Some flowers are fragrant, but many cultivars are scentless. Their fringed and bearded petals are what give them their alternative "bearded pink" name. Caring for Sweet William After It Blooms Once blooming is complete, you can cut back any dead foliage and flowers so they don't continue to take energy from the plant. Deadheading Sweet William Flowers Deadheading spent flowers will also encourage more blooms. However, stop deadheading in the late summer to encourage self-seeding for new plants the following year. Common Problems with Sweet William Leaves are Curling Curling leaves can indicate the presence of Fusarium wilt, a fungal disease.4 This disease can cause wilting, and the plant's overall health may decline. Since the pathogen is present in the soil, it can be challenging to eliminate once it has taken hold. Prevention is key, so be careful when handling the plants to avoid root damage, which can make them more susceptible to the disease. If transplanting your sweet William, ensure that the new soil is healthy and free from infestations. Leaves Have Yellow or Brown Spots Yellow or brown spots are a symptom of leaf spot.4 It will eventually lead to the death of the plant. You can protect the plant going forward with a fungicidal spray. Also avoid overhead watering as the spores are airborne. Brown spots can also be caused by environmental factors such as high humidity and sitting water leaving spots on the leaves. Conversely, conditions that are too dry could lead to scorched patches. Stem is Turning Yellow If the stem of your plant is turning yellow, the plant may be receiving too much water. Doing so over time will eventually lead to root rot and mildew and irreversible damage to the plant. Reduce your watering immediately and check the soil. If it appears to be draining slowly, replace it with a dry, loose potting mix. Once the plant perks up, you can return to a regular watering schedule.