Dill plants benefit from repeat harvests, regenerating new growth for fuller, bushier plants. Start harvesting when plants are 5 to 6 inches tall with four or five sets of fronds. Harvest dill seeds for pickling when they are bright green. Dill (Anethum graveolens) is a full-flavored, annual herb that completes its life cycle in one season. Harvesting equates to pruning, which means more growth and a full, bushy habit. Done correctly, you'll enjoy dill for fresh use throughout the growing season. Leaves, flowers, and seeds are all edible. Find out how and when to harvest each part of the plant, along with tips for preserving and storing dill for use over winter. When to Harvest Dill Start harvesting dill fronds when plants reach 5 to 6 inches tall with four or five leaf-bearing stems. This herb grows rapidly, so you can start snipping fairly early in the growing season. For best flavor and moisture content, plan your trip to the herb garden in mid-morning, just after dew has dried but before the heat of the day sets in. Repeat harvests generate new growth to extend the plant's life cycle. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! How to Harvest Dill Dill features upright, branching growth with delicate, alternate, fern-like leaves or fronds. Harvested correctly, plants regenerate, putting out more stems and leaves. Use a small snipper to avoid bruising or stripping stems. Here's what to do. Select a plant with four or five fronds, Use your snipper to make a sharp cut across the leaf stem just above the growth point on the main stem. Look for tips of new fronds starting to emerge along a central stem to locate the right spot. Continue harvesting additional leaves and stems with this method, but remove no more than one-third of the leaves at each cutting. The first few harvests will be small, but the amounts increase as the dill plant puts out new growth. Dill flowers and seeds Depending on the variety, dill generates flowers between 45 and 70 days. Once flowers appear, plants cease to put out green growth, signaling the end of the annual life cycle. Hot, dry weather stimulates early flowering, so gardeners in these climates should succession plant for better harvests. How to Harvest Dill Seeds Once flowers open, flavor concentrates at the top of the stems. Seeds form one to two weeks after flowers appear. For pickling use, harvest heads when seeds are bright green. Yellow seeds aren't quite ready, while brown or black seeds indicate flavor and moisture loss. Cut stems just below the heads and store them whole in plastic bags in the refrigerator or freezer. Fresh dill seeds retain the best flavor for pickling. To harvest seeds for saving, wait until they turn brown or black on the plant. Cut stems just below the heads, tie them together, and place or hang them upside down in a paper bag. Once they're completely dry, shake the bag to separate seeds and stems. Harvest leaves with flower heads After dill flowers, leafy growth ceases so this is a good time to harvest most of the remaining usable leaves on your plant. Tips for Storing Dill Freezing fresh dill is often recommended as a better method for storing, however, it depends on your taste and preference. Freezing preserves color and holds flavor longer. Drying initially concentrates on a spicier flavor with less green taste. Wash dill, run it through a salad spinner, and allow it to dry before storing. Wrap clean, fresh dill stems in a moist paper towel or place leaves in a plastic bag. Keep them in the refrigerator crisper drawer for up to two weeks. Leaves can be dried in a low oven or dehydrator. Or tie several stems together and hang them in a dry location out of direct sunlight. Store fresh leaves and seeds for pickling in plastic bags in the freezer for up to 12 months. Expect some flavor loss after six months. Store dried leaves and saved seeds in glass bottles or jars in a cool, dark cupboard. Seeds remain viable for three to five years. Dried leaves lose their green flavor initially, but can be kept for several years.

Tomato plants are rapidly growing vines that need support, especially once the heavy fruits begin to ripen. Tomato cages are a practical, affordable option, especially when you're growing just a few plants. Cages are designed to provide structure, support vines, and keep fruit from contacting soil which causes it to rot. Gardeners have plenty of options regarding size, material, and ease of use, but there are several factors to consider when choosing the best tomato cage for your crop. Choose the Right Tomato Cage The sturdiest tomato cages are constructed of metal, steel, or wood and may or may not have a weather-resistant finish. Powder coating extends the life of the product and protects your hands from hot surfaces when working with your plants. Cages come in several shapes including square, triangular, cone-shaped, and rings. Standards differ according to shape but a cage between two and three feet wide and four and six feet tall accommodates most tomato varieties. Many offer adjustable horizontal bars that attach with connectors, allowing you to move them up the vertical stakes as needed. Vertical stakes extend at the bottom to anchor cages in the soil. Many fold for easy storage but cone-shaped cages take up more room in the garden shed, though they are usually the least costly. A mature plant supported correctly should not fall over or collapse the cage. Cages for Determinate Versus Indeterminate Tomatoes Determinate tomatoes produce fruit all at once which increases the weight load on vines. Plenty have a bushy growing habit with shorter, thicker vines to support multiple fruits. A cage four feet tall and two feet wide constructed with sturdy materials is usually adequate. Good air circulation is especially important for compact plants, so use a narrower cage to separate and evenly spread branching vines from bottom to top. Triangular or square-shaped cages work well for determinate tomatoes. Indeterminate tomatoes produce fruits all season, harvested as they ripen. This reduces weight load, however, vines often grow to 10 feet in length. A taller six-foot cone-shaped or square cage with a three-foot diameter is better suited for indeterminate tomato varieties. Cages with movable horizontal supports allow you to adjust as vines lengthen providing structure where the plant needs it most. Cages for Potted Tomatoes Growing tomatoes in pots limits your choices to cages that fit the diameter and depth of your pot. Anchor stakes should fit down inside the pot without bending. Cages as short as 15 inches and just six inches in diameter are available but keep your tomato variety, fruit size, and height of the mature plant in mind when selecting a cage support. When to Add Tomato Cages It's always a good idea to add cages at planting time. Add cages to potted tomatoes right after planting to make sure everything fits snugly and correctly. In the garden, you can wait until young plants begin to branch out, two to three weeks after transplanting. They are entering into vegetative growth when vines grow rapidly and root systems begin to spread. Waiting too long to place a cage can leave you stymied by a tangle of vines and anchor stakes can damage feeder roots. How a Tomato Cage Supports a Plant Tomato plants have a built-in anchor called a tap root that can extend into soil to depths of three feet, but this rarely balances out heavy top growth. Cages provide additional support and help you manage vines for better disease control and fruit production. Strong vines will support fruit. When the main stem begins to branch each new vine is attached to the lowest horizontal support, separated, and placed to balance growth evenly. As vines lengthen upwards they are attached to the next horizontal support in the same manner. The idea is to reinforce their weight-bearing capacity along as much length as possible. When used correctly, a tomato cage allows good air circulation in the plant's center. It prevents stress damage to vines that can weaken and break with heavy fruit or environmental factors like high winds. How to Add Tomato Cages to Your Plants Tomato cages are an easy way to get started with an uncomplicated, workable system for supporting your crop. Select a size and design based on your tomato variety. Position the cage with the planted tomato seedling in the center. Push the anchor stakes into the soil to a depth of eight inches applying pressure evenly on the top of the cage. Extensions on the bottom are designed to penetrate the soil easily, however, if you meet resistance, try applying pressure on the lower part of the cage first, or use a mallet to gently tap the top bars. Find a section on the first branching vine with a well-developed leaf and stem on either side and place a soft tie, like twine, on the vine below the leaves. The double "V" formed by the leaves prevents the vine from slipping. Tomato vines thicken as they mature so always allow space by tying them loosely to the cage. If the branch is already flowering or a small fruit has formed, leave extra room for it to develop or choose a different spot to attach. It's fine for fruit to develop inside the cage. Knot the twine against the bar of the cage. Knots placed against vines can rub, strip the surface and invite disease and pests. Follow the plant's natural upward growth pattern and avoid attaching vines in a way that stretches or pulls. New growth is flexible and can be positioned but tying it to a support can cause it to break or wilt. Heavy rain and high winds can displace tomato cages. Reset the cage, centering it, and gently ease the anchor stakes back into the soil. Single metal, wood, or bamboo stakes can be added and tied tightly to vertical cage supports if needed.

Planting onion sets or slips in autumn has some distinct advantages and is much like planting garlicor shallots. But success isn't always guaranteed. Timing, along with your specific growing zone, and choosing the right onion variety all make a difference between big, flavorful bulbs and small bulbs or ones that fail to develop. This guide tells you when and how to plant autumn onions for a bountiful harvest the following spring and summer. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Why Plant Onions in Fall? Onions establish and develop green tops and roots in cooler weather which translates to bigger and more flavorful bulbs. In northern zones, spring planted onions need to get into the ground early which can be challenging unless you have already prepared a raised bed or garden area. Setting them out in autumn gives plants a head start, allowing them to establish before winter frost and freezing. After several frosts, plants go dormant. When temperatures start to rise in spring and day hours lengthen, your onions are ready to direct energy into growing bulbs. Keeping autumn-planted onions free of weeds is easier as many garden weeds have died back. How to Plant Onions in Fall Both sets and slips (young plants) need four to six weeks to establish tops and roots before frost sets in. Find the first frost date in your zone and back time to find out the best day/s for planting. Start by digging a trench 2 to 3 inches deep and 2 inches wide. Fill the bottom of the trench with an inch or two of well-aged compost. Place the sets or slips about 1/2 inch into the compost layer allowing 4 to 6 inches in between each onion. Place sets with the pointed end facing up. Fill the rest of the trench with soil, covering the onion with about 1/2 inch of soil. If you start with slips, leave any green tops above the soil surface. Water and mulch with a thin layer of straw or dried leaves. Once new green growth appears, add more mulch and continue to water every few days. You'll need a mulch layer of at least 6 inches to protect roots when ground freezes. Best Onions for Fall Planting Onion sets are widely available in spring, sold as yellow, white, or red, and often not identified by variety. Try searching online or in garden catalogs to find sets or slips for autumn planting. Look for varieties most successful in your growing zone. Onions are categorized as short-day, intermediate, or long-day. Keep in mind that sets need 80 days and slips need up to 110 days to mature from the time they're planted. Here are a few onion varieties to consider for autumn planting. 'Electric': Winter hardy with shiny red skin and pink-tinged flesh. Mild, sweet flavor. 'Radar': Yellow, globe-shaped Japanese variety. Mild flavor and good bolt resistance. 'Snowball': A short-day variety with medium-sized, slightly flattened bulbs. A mild but tangy onion best for eating fresh. 'Granex': Large, globe-shaped bulbs are mild and sweet. A short-day variety and a popular choice for southern gardens. 'Walla Walla': Extra large bulbs mature in 90 days. This long day type is comparable to Vidalia onion in flavor. Spring and Summer Harvesting Once soil warms in spring and day time hours increase, autumn planted onions start forming bulbs. Short day onions are the quickest to bulb up and ready to harvest in as few as 75 days in late April and early May. Intermediate and long day types will be ready to harvest from early to mid summer. The sooner daylight hours reach the time needed for bulbing, the sooner you'll be able to harvest good size onions. When bulbs are mature, they sit partially above soil level and the green tops turn yellow and flop over. Mature bulbs can remain in the ground for one or two weeks but if left too long they become vulnerable to thrips and can soften and rot.

Looking for another edible edition to your garden? Pepper plants are a winning choice. With a range of low-maintenance varieties available and a pepper to suit every garden size and tastebud preference, you'll quickly be able to grow your own harvest. As with any new crop in the garden, there are helpful tips and care requirements worth understanding that'll make the process easier for you, leading to more peppers and fewer stressful days trying to communicate with a not-so-happy plant. Once you've settled on your fruit (or veggie to some) of choice, brush up your knowledge on these tips and care pointers, below. Your Quick Guide for Growing Peppers Give peppers at least six hours of full light each day Plant peppers in slightly acidic soil that's warm and moist Grow peppers after the last frost so they stay warm and healthy Peppers can take up to three months to be ripe and ready for harvesting Pick peppers based on what ripeness looks like for their variety Which Peppers Should You Grow? Excited by the thought of growing a peck of peppers? Start by choosing the right variety. Zahid Adnan, gardening expert and founder of The Plant Bible, recommends starting with versatile varieties like bell peppers, jalapeños, or Anaheim peppers. "They're relatively easy to grow and offer a spectrum of flavors and heat levels," he says. Starting Peppers From Seed Growing peppers from seed isn't too difficult and is one of the more popular ways, aside from transplanting or buying young plants. The best indication of when you can start peppers from seeds will come from the last frost date in your area. Adnan says you can plant the seeds indoors eight to 10 weeks before the last frost date. Gather small containers for the seeds and push them down into warm and moist seed starting mix. (He says to aim for a temperature between 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit). This gives them time to start cultivating before they're brought outside. Planting Peppers Whether you've planted from seed or are planning to transplant, you'll likely want to bring your pepper plants outside for the best chance of survival and the most comfortable life. "Once seedlings have developed true leaves, transplant them into larger pots or directly into the garden after all danger of frost has passed," says Adnan. After planting, you can expect peppers to start fruiting and reach maturity between 65 and 85 days depending on the care they receive and the variety of pepper, according to Adnan. Caring for Peppers Once your peppers are in the ground, they won't ask for anything too strenuous—most varieties are relatively easy plants to grow and cultivate. By ensuring they get the light, water, and soil necessary for them to thrive, you can have a healthy harvest in a few months. Outside of the basics, Adnan notes to be aware of how your variety of pepper grows. While some stay lower to the ground, taller varieties will need some kind of trellis or stake. This supports them as they grow and will prevent breakage under the weight of fruit. Light Peppers love sunlight, whether planted in a bed or in containers on your deck. Adnan says they should be positioned to receive at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight. While they love sun, just be conscious of any recently pruned areas that may not be used to that level of exposure and can burn or leave room for the fruits to burn. Soil Peppers do best in slightly acidic soil—a pH between 6.0 and 6.8 is ideal. Soil should drain well and stay warm as they grow, hence why post-frost planting is important. This is particularly important for pepper plants and seeds that have been sown or transplanted. As for fertilization? Adnan says the occasional sprinkling of a balanced fertilizer is okay. Too much can boost the look of the leaves but hinder fruit production. Watering Balanced watering is important, too. Adnan says regular watering is important for keeping the soil moist. Ensure that you distribute it evenly across the pepper patch or pot and it's not funneling to just one part of the soil. Moisture is key, but be careful not to overwater. "Mulching around the base of the plants can help retain moisture and suppress weeds," he adds. Pepper Problems & How to Fix Them Peppers can run into a few issues while they're growing. These are the most common pests and diseases that can afflict your plants and how to deal with them. Pests The most common pests that go after peppers, according to Adnan, are aphids, flea beetles, and pepper maggots—the latter being fly larvae that specifically target peppers1 by burrowing into the fruit. Adnan says the best way to defend your plants is through frequent monitoring and using insecticidal soap or neem oil to combat infestations. Plant Diseases There are a handful of diseases that peppers are capable of developing. These include bacterial leaf spot, powdery mildew, and phytophthora blight. While they may sound disastrous, preventing them is fairly straightforward. Adnan says to focus on measures such as crop rotation, proper spacing, and avoiding overhead watering. Harvesting Peppers As mentioned, peppers can take a couple of months to appear on your plant. It will depend on the pepper variety, but when the fruit has fully become its intended color and size and has a glossy sheen, they're likely ready to be plucked. If you're worried about pepper picking influencing the growth rate, Adnan is here to ease your concerns. He notes regular harvesting can encourage your plant to produce more fruit.