Bursting with flavor, oregano adds a robust dimension to dishes and carries health benefits. Learn when and how to harvest oregano for the best flavor and the plant's health. What Is Oregano? Oregano is an herb often used for cooking and as an antioxidant for health benefits. Its pronounced flavor is often described as herby, peppery, and minty, with an underlying faint bitterness. As a perennial, oregano will continue to grow year after year without replanting.1 Origanum. North Carolina State University Cooperative Extension. Oregano's name is derived from the Greek, and it means "beauty of the mountain." So, oregano can be grown for its appearance—no need for harvesting. Oregano develops small purple flowers that bloom during summer. Left unharvested, oregano can reach up to three feet high. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Different Types of Oregano Oregano has 45 species, but a few types are used most often:1 Common oregano (Origanum vulgare): This popular type of oregano (vulgare roughly means "common") is frequently used in tomato sauces and on pizza. It pairs well with basil and thyme. Golden oregano (Origanum vulgare 'Aureum'): Golden oregano has a milder taste than common oregano. It is often used as an ornamental plant due to its yellow foliage and pink and purple flowers. Mexican oregano (Lippia graveolens): Mexican oregano has a more lemony-minty flavor than common oregano, since it's closely related to the mint family. Though its taste is strong, the bitterness is lessened, making it a staple of Southwest and Mexican dishes. When to Harvest Oregano Oregano should be harvested during the growing season, right before or when the flowers have developed.2 "I usually harvest oregano just before it starts to flower, as that’s when the leaves have the highest concentration of essential oils, which makes them taste the nicest," says says Tom Farmer, a blogger who writes Our Country Garden. The growing season for oregano varies, but in many areas, it is from spring to early summer. Tip Though oregano is relatively pest-resistant, watch for aphids, spider mites, and thrips. Harvesting Fresh vs. Dried Oregano While milder herbs like cilantro, basil, and parsley taste better fresh than dried, oregano's bold flavor carries through into dried form. "I keep both [fresh and dried oregano] stocked for different reasons," says Lindsay Etemadipour, a holistic herbalist and the founder of Symbi. "Fresh oregano is best for dishes where a bright, fresh herb flavor is desired, while dried oregano is fantastic in recipes that benefit from a more intense, concentrated flavor," she says. "Dried oregano is ideal for soups, stews, and sauces where it has time to rehydrate and infuse its flavor into the dish." She adds that fresh oregano works well as a garnish for salads, soups, and pizzas. Harvesting Oregano for Fresh Use When harvesting oregano, snip off the tops of the stems. The stems include the leaves that will be removed for use. Below, leave at least four to six pairs of leaves per stem. This helps the oregano produce more leaves for future harvesting. "When harvesting oregano, you want to focus on three things: time of day, frequency, and maturity," Etemadipour says. "First, you want to ensure that you wait until oregano is about to flower, but not after it flowers. Once the plant flowers, the leaves will start to become bitter." Choosing the best time of day for harvesting is also critical. "You want to harvest mid-morning, after any nighttime dew has dried and before the day's heat," she says. "The herb's flavor is most potent at this time due to the oils." Farmer has a suggestion for harvesting oregano so you can get another batch. "I use sharp scissors to cut the stems just above a pair of leaves about one-third of the way down, as this allows the plant to re-shoot so I can harvest it again in a few months," he says. Tip Oregano and basil can be planted together, as they work together to keep mosquitoes, spider mites, aphids, and pests away. Harvesting Oregano for Dried Use Harvesting oregano for dried use is similar to harvesting for fresh use, but as Farmer points out, there are a couple of differences. "For drying, I aim to harvest a few more leaves, so I choose stems that are just about to flower and cut above a pair of leaves around two-thirds of the way down the stem," he says. he job isn't finished when you have collected your herbs, Farmer says. "I then bundle these stems and hang them upside down on a rack in my kitchen as it’s warm and dry. It normally takes about a week for them to dry out completely, depending on how humid it is outside." As a final step, Farmer packs the dried oregano in airtight containers until he needs it. How to Care for Oregano After Harvesting After harvesting, it's important to care for oregano to enable regrowth and for the oregano plant's continued health. "Regular harvesting helps keep the plant healthy and producing," Etemadipour says. "I usually harvest when the plant stems are about five inches tall. This will guarantee a few harvests a season." Farmer adds that water and fertilizer are important. "To keep the plant healthy after I’ve harvested it, I give it a really good water and a light feed with some liquid fertilizer. If any stems have already flowered when I come to harvest, I cut them back in the same way, discarding them, as this prevents the plant from putting all of its energy into the flowers." Tips for Harvesting Oregano Pick the right time of day, usually mid-morning. Snip the leaves rather than pulling them off by hand. Prune (or harvest) oregano to maintain health, even if you don't plan to consume the herb. Bundle the snipped stems with a rubber band, placing the band on the snipped end. If pruning for plant health only, prune aggressively: as low as 2 to 3 inches.3 For cooking use, harvest oregano around two times per year.3 Rinse the oregano right after harvesting to give it time to air-dry before use.

Raspberries are gems in the garden, and to help them thrive, pay attention to what you plant nearby—by companion planting for raspberries, you might just get a bigger harvest. Whether you are planning to grow wild raspberries or cultivated varieties, you want the plants to thrive and produce abundant fruit. One way to help the plants along is to pay attention to what crops and plants are located near the raspberry bushes. Learn more about what plants are great companions to your rows of raspberry canes and which plants should never come near them. 11 Good Companion Plants for Raspberries Raspberries prefer full sunlight and well-drained, sandy loam soils rich in organic matter so it is important to select companion plants that have the same requirements. Since raspberries are usually trellised, there is plenty of room at the bottom of the canes for companion plants. Garlic: The pungent odor repels Japanese beetles that can harm the raspberry fruit and leaves. Leeks, Onions, and Chives: All are members of the Allium family with odors that repel harmful insects and deer. Marigolds: Effecting in controlling certain nematodes, microscopic worms that feed on plants. Lavender: Attracts bees and butterflies for pollination. Nasturtiums: Attracts pollinators and repels whiteflies, squash bugs, and aphids. Yarrow: Repels harlequin beetles that feed on raspberry plants. Chamomile: Attracts pollinators. Mint: Repels aphids. Turnips: Attract the harlequin beetle to prevent it from targeting the raspberries. Spring Cover Crops: In the early spring, sow a cover crop such as buckwheat, rye, millet, or oats to improve the organic matter in the soil and to kill out perennial weeds. The crop should be turned into the soil before it goes to seed. Late Summer Cover Crop: Sow a cover crop like spring oats just after the harvest of the raspberries is complete. The oats aid in hardening off the raspberry plants for winter by absorbing excess water and nutrients in the soil, reducing soil erosion, and smothering weed growth. What Not to Plant Near Raspberries Just as some plants can be beneficial to the growth and fruit production of raspberries, others can transmit plant and soil diseases that can harm raspberries. Tomatoes: A member of the nightshade family, tomatoes can carry verticillium root rot that can affect raspberries. If there have been no tomatoes in the soil near the plants for four years, the area is safe for planting. Blueberries: Blueberries require acidic soil to thrive while raspberries only need mildly acidic soil. Planting both fruits together will allow only one to thrive. Potatoes: Another nightshade, potatoes can spread the verticillium virus to raspberries. Peppers: Avoid planting raspberries in an area that has grown peppers until four years have passed. Strawberries: Strawberries are susceptible to the same root-rotting diseases as raspberries. Land that has been planted with strawberries for four years or more can build up a population of root-rotting diseases and should not be used when planting raspberries. Eggplant: Another nightshade spreader of verticillium root rot, keep them away from raspberries. Wild and Cultivated Raspberries: If planting cultivated raspberry varieties, destroy all wild raspberries within 600 feet of the site to reduce the possibility of spreading viruses. Boysenberries, Blackberries, and Gooseberries: Avoid planting raspberries near similar bramble fruits to prevent the transfer of soil-borne fungal diseases. What Is Companion Planting? Companion planting has been done for centuries and is the practice of growing different plants together for mutual benefit.1 A classic example is planting "the three sisters" or corn, beans, and squash together. The corn supplies a support system for the climbing bean vines, the beans provide nitrogen to fertilize the soil and stabilize the tall corn during heavy winds, and the large leaves of squash plants shade the ground to help retain soil moisture and prevent weeds. Unlike other gardening areas, much information about companion gardening is not always based on hard scientific facts, but more on observations and garden lore found in farmers’ almanacs. However, some studies confirm the benefits of separating certain crops from others to prevent soil diseases and nutrient depletion.

The Persian lime (Citrus × latifolia) is the most common and what you're most likely to find for sale in the grocery store. Growing a lime tree is easy and requires relatively little care if it's placed in the right conditions. It's known for its abundant fruiting habits, whether grown in the ground or in a container. Lime trees produce fruit in around three years. Plus, the tree is pretty to look at, bedecked with petite, ovular leaves and delicate white flowers. A dwarf lime tree is about half the size of a regular lime tree, whereas key lime trees are bushier and produce smaller, more tart key limes. Learning how to grow a lime tree is a great idea if you live in a warm climate and have an open spot in your landscape. See the steps below. How to Plant a Lime Tree A newly planted lime tree requires minimal care once it is established so long as it is planted in the right conditions and area. Selecting a Planting Site Pick a very sunny spot, one that gets at least 6 hours of direct light per day and is preferably south-facing. Consider how future plantings will impact the light and choose a spot where you know future plant growth or outdoor living structures will not impede it. Amend the Soil A lime tree loves organically rich soil. If that's not what you have, amend with compost and manure before planting. Choose a well-draining area; the lime tree does not tolerate wet conditions. To aid in drainage, you can add organic matter, sand, or perlite to the soil. You can also create a mound and add amendments to help things along. Pack the soil down firmly to prevent air pockets, since they hold water. Spacing, Depth, and Support Lime trees should be spaced 15 feet from the closest tree. Your tree should be planted in a hole the same depth and twice as wide as the rootball. Unless the tree is planted in a very windy location, staking should be unnecessary. Lime Tree Care Growing a Persian lime is easy as long as you provide it with the proper care; here are some requirements that will help your lime tree thrive: Provide your lime tree with full sun, for at least six hours. Ensure your tree is given enough water and proper drainage. Plant in an area with good organically rich soil or in a container with quality potting soil. Fertilizer is not necessary but will improve the tree's health. Keep your lime tree in a warm spot at 60-90 degrees Fahrenheit.. Light Sunlight is essential; your tree will produce as much fruit as possible and stays healthy in an area with full sun. Planting your tree in a sunny location is a great idea, but this is extra important for potted plants. Soil The lime tree enjoys rich soil loaded with organics that feed the tree with the necessary nutrients. At the same time, the soil needs to be moist, but well draining. Test your soil before planting and amend it as necessary. Water Give your lime tree plenty of water and keep the soil consistently moist to get the juiciest fruit possible. Use a soaker hose to keep the soil moist under the tree's canopy to a depth of 2 inches. When the soil is dry to the touch, water again. When you plant your tree, more frequent water is needed until it has established itself. Temperature and Humidity Lime trees are native to tropical areas, so recreating similar conditions would be ideal. Keep your lime tree in a warm area; they do not do well in cold conditions. Strictly adhering to the recommended USDA zones of 9 through 11 is your best bet. Fertilizer A Persian lime will do fine without feeding, but adding a fertilizer to your care regimen will increase the tree's vigor and fruit production. Fertilize your tree with an NPK formulation in a ratio of 2:1:2 three times a year. You can find citrus fertilizers with this formula at most garden centers. Apply in early winter, late spring, and mid summer. Pollination Unlike many fruit trees, you will not have to worry about planting two lime trees for pollination. The lime tree is self-pollinating, and there is no real increase in yield seen when multiple trees are present. Types of Lime Trees The Persian lime is the most commercially available lime in the world—and what you find in the supermarket. There are also a few other species that are grown for culinary purposes: Kaffir Lime (Citrus hystrix): Kaffir lime is another very popular lime tree that produces much less fruit and is less hearty. Key Lime (Citrus × aurantiifolia): A small, tart lime tree that produces limes used mostly for baking, the key lime tree is the third most popular lime commercially. Philippine Lime (Citrus × microcarpa): This lime tree is a hybrid between the kumquat and mandarin orange. Rangpur Lime (Citrus limonia): The rangpur lime is a popular hybrid of the citron and the mandarin orange. Harvesting Persian Limes The lime tree will grow limes year-round. Once fruit appears on the tree, it will take around five months to become large and ripen to a greenish yellow with soft, tender flesh. At that point, it is ready to harvest. How to Grow Lime Trees in Containers Growing a lime tree in a pot allows you to move the tree to the area that receives the most sun, is the most convenient location for watering, and is not as prone to cold temperatures that can damage the plant. A potted lime tree requires a bit more care than an in-ground lime tree. Here's how to care for it: Choosing a pot: Use a pot with drainage holes that are considerably bigger than your tree to give it room to grow. Select a good quality organic potting soil and add a mix of organic compost. Aim for a ratio of 5:1. This mixture will give your lime plenty to feed on and limit the need for much supplemental fertilizer. Location: Place your lime tree in a sunny place. If you decide to keep it indoors, you may need to add a grow light to supplement the lighting. A broad spectrum grow light will best mimic the light you need for an abundant harvest. Watering: Potted lime trees will need their water needs monitored closely as the container they are placed in can impact the soil's ability to hold moisture. The soil should be consistently moist. Temperature: If the temperature in your area goes below 50 degrees, you should bring your lime tree inside during the cold months. Pruning the Lime Tree Your lime tree will require very little pruning since it grows very slowly. Your biggest concern will be looking for damaged, dead, or dying branches. When the tree gets some height to it, it is a good idea to prune to allow for easy harvest, but this may be a job best done by a certified arborist since a mature lime tree will require a ladder to reach the top. Propagating a Lime Tree The Persian lime is a seedless variety, so the only option to propagate a lime tree is by taking cuttings. While this is possible, it is not recommended. You may get a viable tree that produces some fruit, but it won't be as healthy or successful as a purchased sapling. The common lime tree is a variety that is grafted onto the heartier rootstock of the bitter orange (Citrus aurantium). This species is highly disease resistant compared to the Persian lime and is much more tolerant of cooler temperatures. It is therefore a much better idea to buy a commercially sold lime tree. Your tree will be healthier, produce more, be more vigorous, and live longer. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Bitter-orange rootstock ensures the lime tree does not suffer from many root or trunk diseases. The biggest disease that should be on your radar is Citrus canker. It causes brown spots on the leaves, which can move to the fruit if left untreated. Use a soaker hose to defend against this disease, but a preventive spray of a copper fungicide every year can be prophylactic. Insects to be aware of are aphids, citrus mites, scale, and leaf miners. All are relatively harmless in mature trees and can be taken care of easily with neem oil.