Strawberries should be watered anytime the top inches of soil are dry. Water strawberries in the morning for best results. If leaves are discolored, fruits are not as flavorful, or growth is odd, check if you are over or underwatering your plant. The importance of properly watering strawberries cannot be overstated—without proper irrigation, you won’t be able to harvest the juicy fruit that makes growing your own strawberries a worthwhile effort. Strawberries have shallow root systems. This makes them especially sensitive to water deficit and a water-stressed plant can’t produce the juicy berries you are craving. Overwatering strawberries also backfires and causes problems such as rotting. Here is what you need to know about how much to water strawberries and when. How Often to Water Strawberries Water newly planted strawberries thoroughly immediately after planting and then daily for the first week after planting. In the second week after planting, switch to an every other day schedule, unless the weather is very hot and dry. As the plants get established, transition to a weekly watering schedule. During the active growing season between spring and fall, strawberries need at least 1 inch of water per week, or often enough to keep the top layer of soil moist. As it depends on different factors how often strawberries need water, the watering frequency ranges between daily to once or twice a week (less if there is abundant rainfall). Strawberries need the most water during the fruit production stage and up the harvest. If there is no abundant rainfall during harvest time, that’s the time when you need to water strawberry plants the most often. As soon as you see flowers form, start monitoring the soil moisture closely. Because container plants dry out much faster than strawberries planted in garden soil, potted strawberries need to be watered more often. Check the soil moisture level every morning and water the strawberries once or twice daily, depending on the weather and how fast the soil dries out. The smaller the pot, the more often you need to water. Mulch to Maintain Moisture Levels Spreading a 1-inch layer of organic mulch such as wood chips around your strawberry plants keeps the soil moist and helps to reduce the watering frequency. Make sure not to cover the center (crown) from where new growth emerges. When to Water Strawberries While there is no hard-and-fast rule about how often you need to water strawberries, the best time of the day to water them is in the morning. Watering them early in the day prepares them for a hot day in the sun and it’s much better than at night when foliage takes much longer to dry, with the inherent risk of fungal diseases spreading. However, during a heat wave this should not deter you from watering the plants again in the evening if the soil is dry. Insert a finger in the soil—if the top inches feel dry, the plants should be watered no matter what time of the day it is. How to Water Strawberries The best method to water strawberries in garden soil is drip irrigation or a soaker hose. It not only saves water, but also keeps the foliage and fruit dry. Place the system so that it gets the soil around the plants wet but leave some distance to the growing berries. Water container-grown strawberries with a watering can, taking care not to get the leaves wet. No matter which watering method to use, water enough so that the soil is slightly damp but not dry or soggy. Signs of Overwatering Overwatering strawberries is not only wasteful, but it also has detrimental effects on the strawberries. These include: Root rot, a fungal infection that occurs in wet soil with poor drainage. Wilting of the plants, indicating oversaturated soil that lacks air pockets with oxygen. Brown or yellow leaves, especially at the tips of the leaves. Slow overall growth. Diluted flavor.1 If you have overwatered your strawberries, let them dry out before restarting a more conservative watering routine. Signs of Underwatering Typically, older strawberry plants are more prone to show signs of underwatering than young plants because they are less able to retain water. The following are typical indicators for underwatered plants: Dry, crisp leaves. Smaller leaves than those of properly watered strawberries. Less growth with fewer runners, crowns, and leaves. Fewer flowers, resulting in fewer and smaller fruits. Water your plants thoroughly and adjust your watering routine to avoid repeated water depravation, which weakens the plant further.

Elegant, showy, and resistant to pests and disease, Japanese snowbell tree (Styrax japonicus) is a little-known gem with potential in both urban and rural landscapes. This small, compact tree blooms in May and June displaying clusters of fragrant, bell-shaped, white or pink blossoms and glossy, dark green foliage. Long-lasting fruits appear in autumn and mature trees develop fissured bark adding winter interest. Japanese snowbell is a good choice to plant around patios and in beds or shrub borders providing dappled sunlight for shade-loving garden plants and flowers. Dwarf varieties can also be grown in containers. Read this guide to learn more about the lovely Japanese snowbell tree and how to fit one into your landscape plan. Japanese Snowbell Care Once your Japanese snowbell tree is established, little maintenance is required other than occasional pruning to develop the desired shape and size. Early growth creates a vase-like form in most cultivars extending to a more rounded crown as these trees mature. Fruits drop in autumn and early winter but seldom create a need for extensive clean-up. Plant in a location sheltered from high winds. Light Plant this small, ornamental tree where it will receive six hours of bright, direct sun exposure daily. In climates with hot summers (90 degrees°F ) two hours of afternoon shade protect foliage from sunburn. Insufficient light causes leaves to yellow and drop. Soil Japanese snowbell is tolerant of clay and sand but humus-rich loam that drains well delivers the healthiest growth. Soil pH should range from neutral to slightly acidic with ideal levels between 5.5 and 6.5. Water This tree has moderate moisture needs but won't tolerate drought conditions. Water newly planted saplings weekly during the first year to keep soil consistently damp but not soggy. Irrigate deeply with a gallon of water every one or two weeks depending on rainfall in your area. Once established, plan to water as needed during the summer months. A 3- to 4-inch layer of mulch retains soil moisture and discourages competing weeds. Temperature and Humidity Japanese snowbell adapts well to average temperatures in USDA zones 5 through 8 and parts of zone 9. Some varieties tolerate temperatures as high as 95°F as long as afternoon shade is provided. Others survive temperatures as low as 5°F but extreme fluctuations in temperate could be damaging to this tree. Mulching helps prevent root damage in colder climates with late spring frosts. Humidity levels generally aren't an issue however extended periods of hot, moist air can lead to fungal problems. Fertilizer Fertilizer is optional for trees grown in good soil with several suggestions for supplemental feeding. Some growers recommend withholding fertilizer until young trees establish a strong root system, then applying a balanced, water-soluble formula in early spring before new growth begins. To encourage blooming choose a product slightly higher in phosphorous. Types of Japanese Snowbell S. japonicus 'Carillon': Weeping cultivar with white flowers on cascading branches. Slow growers mature at 10 feet tall. Hardy in USDA zones 5 to 8. S. japonicus 'Crystal': This cultivar forms a more columnar shape with black-green foliage and white flowers on purple stems. Hardy to USDA zone 5. S. japonicus 'Emerald Pagoda': Young trees display upright pyramidal growth with large white flowers and leathery, vibrant green leaves. Hardy to USDA zone 5 S. japonicus 'Evening Light': Leaves emerge as purple-maroon turning to a maroon-green hue. White flowers feature maroon sepals. Growth is often multi-stemmed with trees maturing at 15 feet tall and 10 feet wide. Hardy to USDA zone 5 S. japonicus 'Pink Chimes': Fragrant light pink blossoms appear in June on this cultivar with a shrubby growth habit. Hardy in USDA zones 5 to 8. Pruning Japanese snowbell trees grow slowly so pruning requirements are minimal and done in late winter or early spring before buds appear. Remove low branches from young trees to encourage crown development and reduce multi-stemmed cultivars to a single stem to create a tree form. Inspect your tree annually and remove dead, diseased, and damaged branches. Otherwise, gentle pruning about every three years is usually adequate to retain the desired shape. Propagating Japanese Snowbell New cultivars of Japanese snowbell are coming to market as this ornamental gains popularity with homeowners. It isn't legal to propagate trademarked cultivars so plan to purchase additional nursery-grown seedlings. Although other varieties can be propagated in summer with softwood cuttings,success is limited with slow development. It can take several years to get a reliable transplant. Potting and Repotting Japanese Snowbell Several dwarf varieties of Japanese snowbell are suited to growing in containers maturing at just 8 to 10 feet tall and 3 to 4 feet wide. Select a pot with plenty of drainage holes and at least twice as wide and deep as the rootball. Plastic or glazed ceramic pots work best for retaining soil moisture. Potting and repotting is best done in early spring. Starting with a nursery-grown tree, fill your container 1/3 full with quality potting soil. Lift the tree from its starter pot or remove burlap or other material from the rootball and lightly shake off excess soil. Set the tree on top of the soil and spread out the roots. Start backfilling in around them with more potting soil until it reaches the original soil line on the trunk. Watering as you go helps settle the soil. Water thoroughly. Remember that potted trees require more frequent irrigation. Slow-growing Japanese snowball requires potting up only about every three years or when roots begin to extend through the drainage holes. Choose a new, larger container twice the width and depth of the larger rootball and follow the steps above. Overwintering In colder climates, protect Japanese snowbell roots with a thick layer of mulch. Move potted trees to a sheltered location and insulate pots in areas where temperatures dip below 5°F or the low temperature tolerated by your cultivar. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Japanese snowbell is unaffected by common pests and plant diseases. Ambrosia beetles may be attracted to plants weakened by environmental stresses like extreme temperatures. Prevent infestations by maintaining healthy growth and knocking down pests as soon as you spot them with a strong spray from a garden hose. There are no chemical controls for Ambrosia beetles, although pyrethrin is sometimes applied in worst cases. How to Get Japanese Snowbell to Bloom Bloom Months Japanese snowbells bloom in late spring to early summer. Depending on variety, flowers appear between May and June lasting for several weeks. What Do Japanese Snowbell Flowers Look and Smell Like? Lightly fragrant, white or pink, 3/4 inch flowers appear in masses on most varieties although new cultivars are being developed with larger flowers. Bell-shaped blossoms are pendulous, dangling below branches from green or purple stems with some white varieties featuring purple sepals. Foliage grows in an upright orientation on upper branch surfaces which showcases the flowers below. This tree is most valued for its spring floral display with mixed opinions on flower fragrance— some say pleasant, odd, or coarse. It is highly attractive to bees and other pollinators. How to Encourage More Blooms Healthy trees bloom easily and profusely without additional fertilizer. You can, however, boost blooms with a high-phosphorous NPK fertilizer in early spring. Caring For Japanese Snowbell After It Blooms Japanese snowbell blossoms drop naturally and seeds develop fruits called drupes in late summer and early autumn. There is no need to remove flowers. Common Problems With Japanese Snowbell This is an easy-care, ornamental hardwood that is nearly problem free. Issues that may come up are likely due to inadequate watering or environmental causes. Yellowing Leaves Foliage can become chlorotic, with a faded, yellowing color, when soil is too alkaline, temperatures are too high, or soil gets too dry. Check the soil and lower pH before planting if necessary. Make sure the variety you choose is adapted for your growing zone and water new plantings weekly for the first year. Apply mulch to hold in soil moisture and discourage weeds. Lack of Blooms A deficit of flowers is likely caused by a mistake with fertilizer. Planted in humus-rich, well-drained soil, these trees do not require supplemental feeding. Fertilizers with too much nitrogen result in overabundant foliage at the expense of flowers.

Herb gardens are a staple for many gardeners. Not only are herbs fairly easy to grow, but you also get the added benefit of being able to harvest them on a regular basis for your cooking—and say goodbye to wasted store-bought herbs that go off in your fridge. But if you're considering adding mint to your garden—or are already growing it—you may want to think twice. We talked to expert gardeners to find out why you should never grow mint in the garden, and what to grow instead. Why You Shouldn't Grow Mint in the Garden Gardeners say you shouldn't grow mint in your garden because it can spread rapidly. "The main reason to not grow mint is that it tends to be very invasive and difficult to get rid of once it has become established," says Edwin Dysinger, co-founder of Seedtime. Anna Hackman, farmer and managing member at The Naked Botanical, agrees, and says mint can very easily crowd out other plants so they don't receive enough water, soil, nutrients, or even sunlight. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Can You Still Grow Mint at Home? If you still want to grow mint at home, you have some options. First, Hackman suggests having dedicated beds for your mint, which is something she does herself in her own garden. "I have dedicated beds for my mints and each mint is separated so one doesn't push the other out," she says. Hackman also says if you do want to grow mint but are worried about it taking over your garden, there's an easy answer: grow it in containers, but don't plant the container in the ground. "You will need to pull out some of the mint periodically, so it doesn't choke itself," she says. "I made the mistake thinking I could contain it in a container buried in my garden bed and mint found its way out." Alternatives to Growing Mint Hackman has a self-professed "mint addiction," and grows several varieties like pineapple mint, green apple mint, spearmint, peppermint, and chocolate mint. She also suggests a couple of alternatives, if you like the aroma and appearance of mint but would rather grow something less invasive in your garden. "If you want to grow a mint-like plant, I recommend mountain mint or lemon balm," she says. "Lemon balm will self-seed but you can cut it before it flowers. It generally stays in the same vicinity and doesn't get that large." Mountain mint, she says, is pollinator-friendly and will attract lots of bees, but is a larger option and can grow up to 40 inches. Hackman says there are a range of varieties of mountain mint to fit your needs.