Gray birch is a fast-growing, medium-sized North American native tree that stands out for its attractive color-changing bark, long-lasting catkins, and slender silhouette. This adaptable type of birch tree is easy to grow in full sun or part shade. It tolerates most soils but prefers wetter locations and temperatures that aren’t too high. Gray Birch Care Here are the main care requirements for easy-to-grow gray birch trees: Position in full sun or partial shade. Plant in a cool and moist site with little competition from other species. Water regularly in dry sites during the growing season. Mulch to retain moisture and cool soil. Grows in most soil types, from poor to loamy. Fertilizer is not a typical requirement. Light Gray birch trees do best in a partial shade location. Receiving morning sun means their foliage will look the most impressive. These trees can handle a full sun position, especially in cooler regions, but avoid planting in a full shade location. Soil One of the biggest advantages of gray birch trees is their ability to grow in most soils. For this reason, some enthusiasts refer to the species as the ‘poverty birch’. They can thrive in poor, infertile, rocky soils, rich loamy varieties, and heavy clay. They do prefer a well-drained but moist site. Water While gray birch trees can handle occasional periods of dryness, they do best in consistently moist soils. They have a shallow root system and don’t appreciate extended droughts or high temperatures. Your birch tree won't need supplemental watering in a naturally moist site with sufficient rainfall. If the site is drier, watering deeply over a few hours once a week during the growing season is recommended. An amount of 8 to 18 inches should be sufficient.1 The moisture levels are sufficient when the soil can form into a ball in your hand rather than crumbling. Mulching around the tree base also helps to conserve water. Temperature and Humidity The gray birch isn’t a tree to plant in hot, sultry southern states. This species does best in cooler climates where temperatures are unlikely to exceed 75°F and humidity levels aren’t too high.2Mulching around the tree base also helps to keep the soil consistently cool. Fertilizer Landscape trees such as the gray birch rarely need supplemental nutrients to thrive.1 Only apply fertilizer for this species if a soil test reveals there is a particular nutrient deficiency. If you are fertilizing, use a slow-release formula in late fall or early spring, avoiding application when the ground is frozen. Fertilizing in the summer or early fall can cause late growth that won’t harden off in time for the cold winter months. Pruning A big advantage of the gray birch is that it does not require heavy pruning. Excessive pruning—more than 25% of the canopy—can be detrimental to the health of the tree.1 Too much light getting down to the soil can increase soil temperatures and decrease moisture levels—something you don’t want for a gray birch. If you do need to prune, it should just be to remove any broken, dying, or dead branches in the late summer or fall. Avoid pruning from May to the end of July. This is when bronze birch borers are in flight and these pests are attracted to fresh cuts made after pruning. Propagating Gray Birch Propagating gray birch trees by rooting branch cuttings is tricky but not impossible. If you want to try this technique, being mindful of the low success rate, try following the steps below: Take an 8-inch cutting using sterile pruning shears from a branch tip with healthy new growth. Cut below a leaf node (the lump on the stem where a leaf grows from). Keep any leaves growing on the top half of the cutting and remove the leaves on the bottom few inches. As an optional step, dip the base of the cutting in rooting hormone to increase the chance of it taking root. Plant the cutting in a well-draining, moist potting mix. Loosely cover the pot and cutting with a clear plastic bag. This helps retain a beneficially moist environment. Position the pot in a spot that receives bright but indirect light, and that is away from drafts. Ensure the soil remains evenly moist without being soggy. If successful, the cutting should take root within eight weeks. Once the cutting has fully taken root and remains securely in the soil when you tug, it is ready for transplanting. Transfer the cutting to its permanent location; try not to damage the roots. Keep the transplant evenly moist for the next two months. The propagation technique has succeeded if you see new growth emerging from the cutting. How to Grow Gray Birch From Seed Growing gray birch from seed is a more reliable way to produce a new tree than propagating from cutting. To attempt this technique, try following the steps below: Collect the seeds from catkins as they turn from green to brown in the fall. Stratify the seeds for at least one month in a refrigerator or unheated garage to break their dormancy and prepare them for germination. Sow the seeds in a container of rich potting soil. Cover seeds lightly with a shallow layer of soil and dampen with water. Move the container to a warm spot where it receives bright but indirect light, and keep the soil evenly moist. Keeping in a cold frame helps provide an ideal germination environment. Within a few weeks, you should see signs of germination. Thin out the seedlings as necessary, aiming to select the strongest-looking individuals. When the seedlings are strong enough for handling, prick individuals out and put them into their own pots. Keep them in the cold frame for their first winter. Transplant the successful seedling to its outdoor position after the last frosts in the spring. Overwintering Watering deeply and mulching the tree base in late fall helps preserve moisture and maintain consistent soil temperatures around the roots. Additional watering may be required if you experience a dry winter, but don't leave the soil soggy. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Bronze birch borer infestations can be a problem for gray birch trees. An infestation will result in chlorotic leaves, leaf drop, and the death of upper branches on the tree. Without insecticidal treatment, infestations can eventually kill the tree.3 Fortunately, the gray birch is not as bothered by this pest as some birch species, and healthy trees are less likely to suffer damage than stressed and weak ones. There is also a cultivar, Betula populifolia ‘Whitespire Senior’, which is particularly resistant to these insects. Avoid planting your gray birch in soils with high alkaline pH levels—this can also lead to chlorosis (a yellowing of leaves that would normally be green). Also, watch out for leaf miner attacks (these burrowing larvae are treatable with insecticides) and cankers (infected, dead areas on branches).

In general, gardeners recommend planting vegetables in early spring to early summer. For fall harvests, some vegetables can be planted in late summer. You can get a head-start by starting seeds indoors, but starting plants too late will make your yield smaller. When should you plant vegetables? Overall, the best time to plant vegetables is between April and November. This broad growing season is divided into two seasons—spring and fall—for different crops. We spoke to three gardening specialists so you can learn when to plant vegetables. These experts will help you understand the difference between spring and fall plantings, as well as planting periods for specific vegetables. When to Plant Vegetables The best time to plant vegetables for a bountiful crop in most locations is from early spring to early summer, according to Paul Dysinger of Seedtime. The other best time for planting vegetables is fall. Spring Though spring is the best time to plant, each crop is different, Dysinger says. "Each location has different suggested times for that location based on average frost dates or climate, including if the crop is a warm weather or cool weather crop." The best time to plant vegetables is spring, agrees Chrissie Handley of Online Turf. This gives the vegetables enough time to germinate in the soil before the growing season begins. Within spring, the ideal time to plant a crop is early enough for it not to be killed or negatively impacted by a frost, leaving as much growing time as possible in the season, Dysinger says. Planting in early spring "means you’ll have earlier yield and stronger and tastier vegetables because of it," adds Handley. Fall For a fall harvest, cool-season vegetables can be planted in early spring (March to April) and again in late summer (August to September), says Chris Ramos, a gardening specialist with Blain's Farm & Fleet. The ideal time is early enough in the summer or fall for the crop to reach maturity by the time day length shortens and temperatures drop, Dysinger says. "At that time, the plant's growth slows down, and crops will no longer grow very quickly, if at all." "Warm-season crops like tomatoes and cucumbers should be planted after the last frost in mid-May," Ramos says. The crops can continue producing until the first frost in October or November. When to Plant Specific Vegetables Specific vegetables will have differing seasonal requirements to grow to their full bounty. Carrots As a cool season crop, carrot seeds should be planted in either of two periods: spring or mid-summer. For spring plantings in most locations in the U.S., Dysinger says, carrots should be planted from February to May. If you're in southern Florida, California, or Texas, it's different, and he suggests planting anywhere from September to March. For fall plantings in most locations in the U.S., carrots can be planted from July to September. "For a fall crop, carrots can stay in the ground until it freezes," Ramos says. Corn Spring corn can be planted from March to June, according Dysinger. However, in southern U.S. states without risk of frost, corn can be planted from October to March. For late corn harvests, corn can be planted from June to August, says Dysinger. Cucumbers Because cucumbers are sensitive, they are best planted in late spring to early summer, Handley says. "Cucumbers should be planted in late May to early June and harvested throughout summer," Ramos says. Kale Plant kale, from January to April for transplants and from February to May for direct seeding, according Dysinger. If you're located in southern Florida, California, or Texas, you can plant kale from September to March. Kale can be planted from July to September for fall plantings in most locations in the U.S., Dysinger says. Lettuce Lettuce should be planted from March to May for a strong yield, according to Handley. Peas Being a hardy vegetable, peas can be planted outdoors from March to April. If you like, you can start peas in a container to get a head start on growing. Potatoes Plant potatoes from late February to April. However, if you are located in a warm area, plant potatoes in late summer or early winter. That way, the potatoes won't be fighting the hottest time of the year—mid-summer. Radishes "Since they're fast growers, radishes are best planted during the high temperatures of summer, or from June to August, to help get continuous yield," Handley says. Tomatoes Tomatoes should be started indoors in late March or early April, according to Ramos. "Transplant the tomatoes outdoors in mid-May, and harvest them from mid-summer, or July, through early fall, or around September to October." Ramos adds that this late harvest—October—depends on your local frost conditions. Planting Before the Best Time Can you plant vegetables before their opportune planting time? You can always start your vegetables indoors where you can control the temperature and growing conditions to make sure the seeds get off to a good start, Handley says. Once you can see them sprouting, you can then move them outside. "This method is great for sensitive vegetables like tomatoes or peppers," Handley says. "But for hardier vegetables like potatoes—which infamously grow in any soil condition—carrots, or peas, you can plant them outdoors in slightly colder conditions." In later spring to early summer, Handley suggests moving your more sensitive vegetables outdoors when temperatures consistently reach above 50°F. Planting After the Best Time Is it too late to start a garden? You can often still plant vegetables after the ideal time has passed. The vegetable harvest may not be as bountiful, though. Even though spring is generally the time to plant vegetables, remember that fall is a second growing season. Vegetables planted in spring are harvested in summer, while fall vegetables are harvested from October to December. So, even if you miss spring plantings, you only have two or three months to wait until fall vegetables roll around in midsummer.

Tomatillos produce green or purple fruits encased in a papery husk. Distant cousins to a tomato with a tangy, slightly acidic flavor, tomatillos are ready to harvest 75-100 days after the seedlings are settled in the garden. The fruit will completely fill the husk and easily pull off the plant. As an indeterminate plant, tomatillos continue to flower and produce fruit throughout the summer until frost. Because of the husk and green color, it can be confusing about when to harvest a tomatillo. Follow our tips for the best harvesting results. 5 Signs Tomatillos Are Ripe and Ready to Pick It's been 3-4 months since you planted. The first tomatillos are usually ready to be harvested 60 to 75 days after the seedlings are placed in the garden or settled into a container for the summer. The fruit is firm. If a tomatillo feels soft, it's likely overripe and less flavorful. It's reached peak color. For example, a purple tomatillo variety will be firm, purple, and no longer green when ready to pick. The husk changes from green to a light brown. The husk will be dry surrounding the tomatillo. The papery husk has not yet split. A fully-split husk means the fruit is overripe. When to Harvest Tomatillos Since tomatillos are indeterminate, they will not flower and set fruit all at once. Harvesting should be done every few days throughout the growing season. The fruit should be firm, the papery husk should be full, and a good hack to follow that tomatillos are ready? The fruit will often drop off the plant before it is fully ripened. These fruits can be gathered and stored in a cool, dry place in the husk until fully firm and ripe. After You've Harvested Every Tomatillo for the Season At the end of the season, the entire plant can be removed from the garden or container and hung upside down in a cool area. Any fruit remaining on the vines will continue to ripen and be good for several months. During the growing season, mature fruit should be placed in a cool location immediately following harvest and can be refrigerated in the husk in a paper bag for up to three weeks. How to Harvest Tomatillos the Right Way Tomatillos are easy to remove from the mother plant by hand or with pruning shears. Harvest by hand by giving the fruit a slight twist from the stem. If it does not yield easily, the fruit isn't mature. Keep a basket or bucket nearby to collect the fruit and place it in the container gently to avoid bruising and cracking. 6 Additional Tomatillo Growing Tips Always plant at least two tomatillo plants. They are not self-fruitful so two plants are needed for cross-pollination by insects. An individual plant may produce 64 to 200 fruits in a season. Tomatillos need about 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week and full sun to maximize production. Tomatillos should be staked or caged to keep the fruit off the ground. Since the plants often drop their fruit before it is fully ripe, provide a bed of straw under each plant to keep the fruit dry and away from the soil until you can collect it. The fruit will be sticky when it is removed from the inedible husk. Wash with mild soap and water before eating or processing the tomatillos.