Cutting amaryllis leaves back at the right time is a key part of amaryllis care and essential to make the plant rebloom. The leaves should remain on the plant while they are still green. Knowing when to cut back the leaves lets you enjoy the bloom of amaryllis year after year instead of treating it like an annual flower that is discarded after it flowers (usually around Christmastime). Learn why the timing of cutting back amaryllis leaves is so important for the bloom and how to do it. When Should You Cut Back Amaryllis Leaves? Only cut the leaves of your amaryllis back when they have turned yellow and brown, after the plant has finished blooming. Even if they look a bit unsightly, resist the urge to remove the leaves while they are still green. During that stage, photosynthesis is still taking place and the plant is still growing, storing energy for future leaf growth and flowers. After the leaves have turned yellow and brown, the plant enters a brief rest period during which it stops growing before it restarts growing new leaves. 7 Essential Tasks to Do After Amaryllis Blooms After your amaryllis blooms, remove the faded flowers promptly so it does not form any seeds, which would unnecessarily deplete their energy. However, do not remove the thick, sturdy flower stalk; leave it on the plant until it has turned yellow. Just like the leaves, the flower stalk is important for photosynthesis while it’s green. Once the flower stalk has turned yellow, cut it off with sharp pruners or a knife sterilized with alcohol. Cut the flower stalk to a height of about a half inch and one inch above the bulb. Place your amaryllis in the sunniest possible location, preferably a south- or west-facing window. Continue to water it so the soil is consistently moist but not wet. Water whenever the top two inches of soil feel dry. Keep fertilizing it every two to three weeks with an all-purpose houseplant plant fertilizer, diluted to half strength. The plant will continue to grow leaves for a while. Once the leaves turn yellow or brown, let them fall on their own or cut them off. At this point, the plant has entered its brief rest period. Stop fertilizing the plant and cut back on the watering. How to Prune Amaryllis Leaves If you get the timing right, cutting back the yellow or brown amaryllis leaves is very simple. Cut the leaves 2 inches above the bulb, using sharp sterilized pruners or a knife. Afterward, you have two options for what to do with the bulbs. You can either remove it from its pot, clean it, and store the bulbs in a cool and dark place for a minimum of 6 weeks, or leave it in its pot and let it undergo a longer, more natural process to rebloom. What Should You Do With Amaryllis Plants in the Summer? Amaryllis thrives in the sun. If possible, move your potted amaryllis outside on your patio or deck during the summer, which will help it bloom more fully later in the season. In the spring, after there is no more danger of frost, slowly acclimate the amaryllis to outdoor conditions. Start by placing it in a location with partial shade or dappled light, such as under an umbrella. Gradually move it to a location where it gets full sun for at least 6 hours every day.1 Outdoors, the soil dries out much faster than indoors. Adjust the watering accordingly. Fertilize the plant monthly with an all-purpose houseplant fertilizer. Make sure to return the plants indoors before the first fall frost. If you cannot move your amaryllis outdoors for the summer, place it in a window where it gets maximum sun and follow the same watering and fertilizing routine as described above.

Woodland forget-me-nots are short-lived perennials valued for their color, with numerous pink buds followed by small, attractive, half-inch five-petaled blue flowers. A short plant (often just 5 inches at maturity) with a medium growth rate, forget-me-not has hairy stems with single flowers growing at the end of bunches of flowering stems. It attracts butterflies and resists rabbits and deer. Forget-me-nots are cold hardy. Although they can grow in the sun or shade, they prefer moist, woodland environments with dappled light. In warmer, southern climates with high heat, they grow best in a shady spot. Although technically a perennial, most gardeners treat forget-me-not as a biennial, sowing seed in midsummer and enjoying the blooms the following year. It is used as a groundcover, in garden beds, woodland gardens, rock gardens, or containers. Deadhead flowers if you don't want them to overgrow in an area since they reseed readily and are invasive in some areas. Forget-Me-Not Meaning and Symbolism Woodland forget-me-nots (Myosotis sylvatica) are different from Chinese forget-me-nots (Cynoglossum amabile). The word "myosotis" in the species name comes from Greek words meaning "mouse ear." The plant's foliage has short, pointed leaves resembling mouse ears. A forget-me-not variety, Myosotis scorpiodes, also has a unique common name, "scorpion grass," for its flower clusters that curl like a scorpion's tail. Forget-me-nots are a popular bridal flower for their symbolism. They historically symbolize true love, respect, fidelity, and devotion. Forget-Me-Not Care Here are the main care requirements for growing woodland forget-me-nots: Grows well in full sun or partial shade, preferring dappled light. Prefers moist soil; do not allow it to dry out. Handles heat and cold climates and does not like intense heat. It needs rich soil, augmented with compost or fertilizer annually. Light In the North, you can grow it in full sun or partial shade, although this plant prefers dappled light. At the southern end of its range, give forget-me-not afternoon shade. This plant does not like intense sunlight. Soil Forget-me-not prospers in organically enriched, consistently moist, well-drained soil. Never allow the soil to dry out. It grows best in neutral pH, although it handles slightly alkaline or acidic soil pH. Water Forget-me-not prefers wet soil. It can handle muddy or waterlogged soil and thrives near a stream, pond, or bog. The more sunlight it receives, the more water it will need. Temperature and Humidity With a range covering six USDA zones, forget-me-not withstands heat and cold well. Unless you're trying to grow it north of zone 3, you don't need to take measures to winterize it. However, due to its susceptibility to powdery mildew disease,2 it isn't recommended for areas with intensely hot, humid summers. Fertilizer Fertilize forget-me-not with compost or general-purpose fertilizer annually. Follow the product label instructions for the amount of fertilizer to use. Types of Forget-Me-Nots There are about 100 species of forget-me-nots. Most are called forget-me-nots or scorpion grass. Some of these plants were historically used to treat wounds and some medical conditions.3 Other common types of forget-me-nots include: Small-flowered forget-me-not (Myosotis stricta) Broadleaf forget-me-not (Myosotis latifolia) Water forget-me-not (Myosotis scorpioides) Field forget-me-not (Myosotis arvensis) Alpine forget-me-not (Myosotis asiatica) Cultivars of Myosotis sylvatica with more options for color, plant size, or flower size include: Blue basket: Taller, deeper blue flowers Music: Flowers larger and deeper blue Pompadour: Compact growth habit; pink flowers Snowball: White flowers Ultramarine: Smaller plant; deep blue flowers Victoria blue: Compact growth habit Victoria rose: Pink flowers Victoria white: White flowers Pruning Forget-me-nots do not need pruning unless you want to trim away extra growth. You can remove dead or dried-up branches at any time, but the best time to trim overgrowth is immediately after the plant flowers. Use sterilized pruners to remove the spent flowering stalks at the base. Basal pruning also prevents seeds from dispersing. Once you introduce it to your garden, you'll have it for many years (unless you actively suppress it). Propagating Forget-Me-Not Forget-me-nots are best propagated by seed and division. To divide it, here's how: Dig up plants that have spread from the original. Transplant them to other areas in spring. Dig the holes the same depth as they were growing previously. Place in the hole and backfill with soil. Space them 10 inches apart. Water deeply to settle the plant. How to Grow Forget-Me-Not From Seed Forget-me-not plants are grown easily from seed, as evidenced by the plant's ability to reseed and spread. Here's how to sow seeds: Source seeds by early summer. Select a spot in the garden. Prepare the soil by raking it to loosen it and smooth it out. By midsummer, broadcast the seed across the surface. Water lightly afterward and often enough to keep the soil moist. Seedlings emerge in the fall; blooming will occur the following spring. Potting and Repotting Forget-Me-Nots Forget-me-not grows well in containers, whether outside in a shady spot or indoors. Plant it on its own in a 8- to 12-inch pot with good drainage filled with fresh potting mix. It also makes a good filler plant in a larger container with a mix of shade-loving plants. Keep the soil moist but not soggy and make sure the plant has good air circulation. Indoors, keep the pot in a spot with indirect light and rotate the plant frequently to ensure even light exposure. Water the plant regularly to keep the soil evenly moist. When the plant becomes root-bound, move it into a container one size larger than its current pot. Fill the new container with fresh potting mix, place the plant in the center and firm it into place with additional potting mix. Water it well to eliminate air pockets and allow the pot to drain. How to Get Forget-Me-Not to Bloom Bloom Months Forget-me-nots typically bloom from April to May for several weeks. What Do Forget-Me-Not Flowers Look and Smell Like? The plant produces many dainty blue, pink, or white flowers, just under 1/2-inch across. The five-petalled star-like blooms have no discernible scent. How to Encourage More Blooms Provide rich, consistently moist soil for the longest blooming period and the most flowers. Deadhead spent flowers to encourage more flowers. Forget-me-not, as a biennial or short-lived, reseeding perennial, reblooms annually with minimal care. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Garden pests mostly leave forget-me-not alone, but aphids, slugs, and snails can sometimes become problematic. Aphids are sap-suckers that can be controlled by a regular spray of water or wiping them away by hand. Slugs and snails are best eliminated by hand-picking and dropping them in soapy water. If the problem is extensive, use traps made of sunken bowls of beer around the plants. The fermentation smell entices the pests and drowns them. Reset and repeat until these traps no longer capture new slugs or snails. Forget-me-nots are susceptible to two diseases: powdery mildew and rust.4 Powdery mildew is that light-colored, powdery covering on a plant's leaves. Seldom fatal, it temporarily ruins plants' appearance. Minimize it by avoiding overhead watering. Common Problems Forget-me-nots are easy plants to care for and grow. The biggest concerns with these plants are managing their spread and giving the right amount of water. Managing Growth These prolific self-seeders are best controlled by removing the seed heads or flowering stalk immediately as the flower begins to fade. Dig up new stands of emerging growth and transplant them to a new section of your garden to control overgrowth in one area. Or, remove and discard them if you want to limit them in your garden. Wilting Leaves Forget-me-nots are water lovers. If the plants look like the leaves are wilting and crispy, they are likely not getting enough water. If the leaves look wilting and limp, they may be getting too much water. Adjust the water level accordingly. If the problem continues, consider digging up the plant and replacing the soil with better-draining soil.

Growing figs can be extremely rewarding—even beginning growers can learn how to grow a fig tree in a small yard or roomy planter with minimal fuss. With their large, lobed leaves and slender, woody branches, common figs (Ficus carica) have lots of ornamental appeal, but they’re mostly grown for their edible fruit, which turns purple, brown, or yellow when ripe and can be eaten fresh, cooked, or dried. These fast-growing trees thrive in warmer regions and are typically planted in late fall or early spring. However, growers in cooler climates can keep figs by growing hardy, dwarf trees in pots and overwintering them indoors. If you’ve ever dreamed of making luscious desserts with homegrown figs or are simply on the hunt for a unique fruit tree for your garden, you’re in luck. You’ll find all the tips you need to grow fig trees right here. How to Plant Fig Trees Figs are typically sold as either bare root trees or potted plants. Both types of trees are planted using a similar technique. However, if you’re transplanting a potted fig, you may need to tease apart or cut through circling roots before planting to encourage healthy growth. When to Plant While indoor figs can be planted in pots at any time of the year, outdoor trees should be planted in early spring or late fall, when the trees are dormant and the ground is workable. Selecting a Planting Site Figs can tolerate partial shade, but they’ll grow and fruit better in full sun. When you’re ready to plant, select a spot that receives at least 6 hours of direct light daily and has rich, well-draining soil, and plenty of space for figs to spread out. Planting figs in a south-facing location can be particularly beneficial in cooler areas. If you’re growing figs in pots, keep plants on a sunny patio or porch during summer, but move them indoors or into greenhouses before winter arrives. Spacing, Depth, and Support To plant outdoor figs, dig a hole slightly wider and deeper than your tree’s root ball and amend the soil with some compost. Gently wiggle potted figs out of their nursery containers, taking care not to damage their roots. Bare root trees will usually need to soak in water for a few hours before planting. Position the tree in the center of the planting hole. If you’re working with a bare root plant, heap soil into a low mound in the center of the hole to support the tree’s trunk. Then, evenly fan the roots out around the planting hole. Backfill the hole until it’s mostly filled, and then water well to help the soil settle in. If you’re growing multiple fig trees together, full-sized figs should be spaced at least 20 feet from each other and buildings. Dwarf trees can be planted a bit closer together. Fig Tree Care Most fig trees take about 3 to 5 years to fruit, although potted figs may fruit earlier. Providing figs with the right balance of light, nutrients, and water during this time is essential if you want trees to remain healthy and produce a large harvest of future fruit! Light Outdoor figs need 6 to 8 hours of direct light, while indoor figs can do well in sunny, south-facing windows. In low light homes, keep figs under a grow light for 8 to 12 hours a day. Soil Figs can tolerate a range of soils, but slightly acidic, well-draining, loamy soils with a pH of between 6.0 and 6.5 are ideal. Standard potting mixes will work for potted figs, while compost blended into planting holes can help outdoors figs thrive. Water Water container-grown and young fig trees regularly with about 1 inch of water per week. Established, outdoor trees may not need any additional water beyond rainfall. Temperature and Humidity Figs grow best in zones 8 and up, although cold hardy figs can be grown outdoors in zones 6 and 7 with winter protection. In colder areas, figs should be cultivated as container plants and moved indoors or into greenhouses in winter. Humidity is rarely an issue with these trees; however, indoor figs may benefit from the addition of a humidifier in homes with dry air. Fertilizer Fig trees are not heavy feeders and inground plants are usually content with an annual application of compost or balanced fertilizer in spring. If you add compost to your planting hole when transplanting, you typically won’t need to apply fertilizer until the following spring. Potted figs need more attention than inground plants and should be fertilized about once a month in spring and summer with a balanced fertilizer. Pollination Some figs need insect pollinators, but common figs are self-fertile and self-pollinating plants that don’t need insect pollination or other fig trees to fruit. Types of Fig Trees Growers can find a variety of edible fig trees, but it’s important to choose figs that are well-suited for your growing location. Dwarf figs are best for container gardens, while cold hardy figs are more likely to thrive in chilly regions. ‘Brown Turkey’: A versatile fig choice, ‘Brown Turkey’ can be grown in pots or inground gardens and it yields medium-sized, sweet fruits with reddish-brown skins. ‘Celeste’: Relatively cold and heat tolerant, ‘Celeste’ is disease resistant, and produces ultra-sweet fruit with purple skins. ‘Little Miss Figgy’: This dwarf fig only grows about 4 feet high, but it produces large harvests of medium-sized figs with excellent flavor. Harvesting Figs Figs are harvested in late summer to early fall when the sweet and juicy fruit develops its mature color and starts to soften. A tell-tale sign that figs are ready to pick is when the ripening figs droop on their branches. To harvest, grasp a ripe fig in one hand and the supporting tree branch in the other, and gently lift the fig away from the tree. Ripe figs should be easy to pick! Figs don’t last long after harvesting and they can only be kept in the fridge for about 2 to 3 days. For longer storage, try canning, drying, or freezing. How to Grow Fig Trees in Pots Potted and outdoor fig trees have similar care needs, although container-grown plants may need to be fertilized and watered more regularly. Mature trees need 15 to 20-gallon pots to grow, but younger plants can be kept in smaller containers. Be sure to select a pot with plenty of drainage holes, use a well-draining potting mix, and position your fig in a spot that receives lots of bright light. Pruning Pruning is generally not needed for fig trees, although you may want to shape young figs by clipping away wayward branches. After that, simply prune away damaged, weak, or broken stems when the trees are dormant in winter and thin out excess fruit as needed to keep branches from breaking. Propagating Fig Trees Figs can be propagated in several ways, but the easiest options are layering and rooting stem cuttings. Layering works best in warm areas where temperatures never dip below freezing. Simply anchor a low-growing fig branch to the ground with landscape staples so the base of the stem is buried in soil and at least 8 inch of stem and leaves are above the soil line. Allow the buried fig branch to develop roots, and then cut the branch from the parent plant. If you live in a colder area or simply prefer to propagate fig trees from prunings or stem cuttings, here’s how to start: Using sharp pruners, cut several healthy, 8 to 12-inch stem cuttings from the parent fig in spring when figs are still dormant but the danger of frost has passed. Each cutting should be about as wide as your pinky finger and the stem ends should be cut on a slant near a leaf node. Add sealant to the cut stem end to prevent disease and dip the end of the cutting in rooting hormone. Fill a 6-inch pot with potting mix and plant four cuttings per pot with the cut stem ends buried several inches deep. Cover the pot with clear plastic to boost humidity. Move the cuttings into bright, indirect light and water only when the soil feels dry. Once the cuttings produce significant new growth, transplant them into large pots or outdoors into your garden if the weather is mild. Overwintering In warm areas, outdoor figs need little winter care; however, in cooler locations, you may want to wrap fig trees in burlap and protect their roots with mulch. Container grown figs can be grown year-round indoors or in greenhouses, but they typically won’t fruit unless they’re subjected to a period of cold. For maximum fruiting, keep potted figs outdoors until a light frost arrives and the tree drops its leaves. Then move the bare fig tree into a cool, dark, and protected spot, such as a garage or basement, and water sparingly once a month until spring. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Protecting outdoor figs with fruit protection bags can prevent birds and other wildlife from nibbling on ripening fruit. Figs can sometimes develop diseases like fig leaf spot and rust, but minor pests like aphids, whiteflies, scale, and mealybugs are more common, especially in greenhouses.