Hass avocado trees are best known for their edible fruits with bumpy, dark skin and pale green, creamy flesh. First established in California, this cultivar is believed to be a hybrid of Mexican and Guatemalan avocado varieties. Beyond fruit cultivation, you might grow a Hass avocado tree for its attractive leafy green foliage and conical growth habit. This self-fertile fruit tree grows best with at least six hours of full sun, well-draining, acidic soil, and warm daytime temperatures with moderate evening temperatures. All parts of the Hass avocado tree, including the foliage, fruit, seed, and bark are considered toxic to pets. Hass Avocado Tree Care If you want to grow a Hass avocado tree, here are the care requirements you need to know. Plant in loose, well-draining soil. Choose a location that receives bright, indirect light. Water thoroughly, but not to the point of oversaturation. Feed during the spring, summer, and fall months. Light For a lush, leafy canopy and bloom production, Hass avocado trees should receive at least six hours of bright, indirect sunlight. These trees can tolerate light shade, too, but too much and the tree’s foliage growth will be hindered. Soil The soil for growing a Hass avocado tree should be loose and well-draining. Loamy or sandy soil will support healthy root growth but heavy clay soil should be avoided because of poor drainage. Water Hass avocado trees require regular watering. Once per week is a good baseline for mature trees, but take into account recent rainfall or humidity levels. The top inch or so of soil should be dry before watering again. Water to restore soil moisture but don’t allow the soil to become drenched and soggy. Temperature and Humidity The Hass avocado tree is mainly considered hardy in USDA growing zones 9 to 11. It does best with moderately warm and humid temperatures; between 60°F and 85°F with average-to-high humidity is considered ideal. The tree won’t tolerate freezing temperatures so in climates that see temperatures dip below freezing, the best option is to grow the tree as a container plant that can be sheltered indoors in the winter. Fertilizer Hass avocado trees are heavy feeders. Plan on fertilizing trees during the spring, summer, and fall with a well-balanced NPK formula applied to the soil. In addition, apply a foliar fertilizer to the leaves in the spring. Zinc and nitrogen should be applied to the soil in spring, summer, and fall, plus a foliar fertilizer application of zinc in the spring.2 Pruning In general, avocado trees don’t require much pruning and Hass avocado trees aren’t any different. You should avoid over- or under-pruning the tree.3 To do that, prune to remove dead wood and maintain a conical shape that allows easy access to the tree’s branches and sufficient light penetration and airflow. Propagating a Hass Avocado Tree As a cultivar, a Hass avocado tree can only be propagated through grafting and it’s best done in the spring. If you have the skills and tools to graft a tree—including a healthy rootstock specimen—here’s how to do it: Gather the following supplies: sharp snips, a sharp knife, and something to cover the grafted area, such as grafting tape. Select a section of new growth between 5 and 6 inches long with several unopened leaf buds. Using the snips, cut the new growth branch at a 45-degree angle. Remove the tip of the cutting, along with any leaves that are present. On the tree you’ll be grafting onto, wound the tree by removing a section of the bark. Take the cutting and position it onto the grafting site, with the cambium of the cutting and the cambium of the grafted tree making contact. Use grafting tape to secure the cutting to the graft tree, covering all exposed areas. After several weeks, the grafted branch and the main tree should be fused together. Potting and Repotting a Hass Avocado Tree Like other types of avocado trees, you can grow a Hass avocado tree in a pot and this is especially recommended if you live in USDA hardiness zones 8 or below. In zone 8, you may be able to overwinter the tree outdoors. Beyond that, you’ll need to grow the avocado tree indoors or be prepared to move it inside during cold weather months. Hass avocado trees grown indoors usually mature to a height of 5 to 7 feet. For store-bought trees that are already several feet tall, you should choose a large container. Pick a pot with drainage holes to prevent the soil from becoming waterlogged, which can lead to root rot. Fill the container with a loose soil mix; cactus or succulent soil mix works well. Plant the tree—covering the root ball—and water thoroughly. Depending on how large of a container you choose, you may not need to replant the tree for several years. Overwintering Hass avocado trees grown in USDA zones 9 to 11 will require no special accommodations since the year-round temperatures remain well above freezing. If you plan to grow this type of tree in USDA zone 8, you’ll need to provide the tree with some additional protection during the colder months of the year. If temperatures are forecasted to drop below freezing, cover the base of the tree with a frost blanket. It’s also helpful if the tree has been planted beneath an overhang or with a south-facing orientation in the shelter of a nearby building. If your Hass avocado tree is grown in a container, you can move it to a protected location when cold weather is imminent. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Like other types of avocado trees, Hass avocado trees are susceptible to attack by pests including several types of mites, along with thrips, caterpillars, borers, and lace bugs, which live in colonies on the leaves of the trees.4 Fungal diseases, like canker and root rot, can also cause damage to the roots, branches, and foliage of the tree. How to Get a Hass Avocado Tree to Bloom Although the Hass avocado tree is best known for its fruit, the flowers are an integral part of the fruiting process. Here’s what to know about how to encourage your Hass avocado tree to bloom. Bloom Months Hass avocado trees typically bloom between March and May, although the specific growing environment may skew this timeframe slightly earlier or later. In tropical climates, flower production is usually greatly reduced. This is because Hass avocado trees depend on a period of cool temperatures (under 45°F to jumpstart flower production. How Long Do Hass Avocado Trees Bloom? You can expect Hass avocado trees to bloom for a period of about six weeks, although each individual flower only blooms for two days. How to Encourage More Blooms If you have the right environmental conditions for a Hass avocado tree to bloom but still see no flowers and you have a mature tree (it can take up to 4 years for a grafted tree to produce blooms), then you might need to fertilize the tree with the proper nutrients to support foliar growth. In addition, your tree may not be receiving sufficient sunshine to promote bloom development. You might need to transplant the tree to a suitable site that receives at least six hours of light each day. Common Problems With Hass Avocado Trees The Hass avocado tree is prone to a few pests and problems. Here are the most common warning signs to look for and what to do to improve the health of your tree if you notice these symptoms. Leaves With Yellow Spots If you notice yellow spots appearing on the leaves of the tree, it could be a sign of lace bugs. Closely inspect the underside of the leaves for visual signs of an infestation; you may see black specks of feces. In small numbers, no corrective action may be required for lace bugs.5 However, if you need to intervene, neem oil is the best option for treatment. When the yellow of the leaves is also accompanied by undersized foliage or the leaves are turning brown at the tips, you may be seeing evidence of root rot. Examine the soil for signs of oversaturation. You should extend the period between watering sessions and amend the soil if necessary to provide sufficient drainage. Discolored or Scarred Fruit Sunblotch is a disease that affects avocado trees and results in discoloration or visible scars on the skin of the avocado fruit. Unfortunately, there’s no cure for sunblotch and the tree should be removed.6 Thrips can also cause discoloration of Hass avocado fruit, usually appearing as dull, brown patches on the skin of the fruit. To treat a thrips infestation, use a neem oil spray.

Prized for their edible stems, or spears, asparagus plants are one of the few vegetables that grow perennially, and they're harvested in spring—long before other crops have even sprouted. But while most gardeners grow green, white, or purple asparagus from year-old transplants or “crowns,” you can save money and make your garden more self-sufficient by growing asparagus from seed instead. In this guide, we’ll walk you through the basics of when and how to plant asparagus seeds and teach you how to transplant, care for, and harvest your own asparagus. When and Where to Plant Asparagus Seeds The main difference between growing asparagus from seeds versus asparagus crowns is that you’ll need to wait an extra year to harvest asparagus grown from seed. But the good news is that asparagus seeds are easy to grow, and they can be started indoors or directly in the garden. Asparagus seeds are usually started inside pots or trays in early spring—about 10 to 12 weeks before the last frost. However, asparagus seeds can also be directly sown in in-ground or raised bed gardens after the final frost of spring. How to Plant Asparagus Seeds Many growers keep asparagus plants in nursery beds for the first year of growth to avoid weed competition and provide young plants with the right conditions for sturdy root development. Whether you’re planning to start asparagus seeds indoors or out, here's how to create a simple nursery bed and sow asparagus seeds. Preparing the Nursery Bed To start, choose a growing location that receives at least seven hours of direct sun daily and follow these tips to create a nursery bed. Loosen the soil to a depth of 10 to 12 inches and remove any rocks and weeds. Test the soil and add soil amendments (if needed). Asparagus grows best in rich, well-draining soil with a pH between 6.5 and 7.0. Before planting asparagus seeds or transplants, mix several inches of compost or aged manure into the top few inches of soil. Indoor Sowing Planting asparagus seeds indoors in early spring takes a bit more time, but it gives you more control over the growing conditions and health of young seedlings. Soak the seeds in water for a few hours before planting. While the seeds are soaking, fill seed starting trays or pots with pre-moistened seed starting mix. Sow one to two asparagus seeds per pot or seedling cell, cover the seeds with ½-inch of seed starting mix, and add a humidity dome. Place the seedlings under a grow light and on top of the seedling heating mat and set to 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Water regularly until the seeds sprout. This can take a few weeks, so be patient! Once the seedlings germinate, remove the humidity dome and heating mat. Continue to water regularly to keep the soil moist, but not soggy. When the seedlings are a few inches tall, leave one seedling per pot or seedling cell and thin out the rest. Transplant indoor seedlings outside when they’re a few inches tall and the danger of frost has past. Outdoor Sowing For a more hands-off approach, plant asparagus seeds outdoors in prepared nursery beds after the last spring frost. Plant seeds ½-inch deep, and 2 to 3 inches apart, in rows spaced approximately 1 foot from each other. If possible, soak the asparagus seeds in water before planting to speed up germination. Water often to keep the soil moist and weed regularly to prevent weed competition. Asparagus seeds should germinate in a few weeks. Once the seedlings have sprouted and are a few inches tall, spread a light layer of straw mulch around the soil line to block out weeds. Transplanting Seeds Seedlings started outdoors won’t need to be transplanted during their first year of growth. However, indoor seedlings should be transplanted outside after the last frost date of spring. Harden the seedlings off over one to two weeks by moving the seedlings outdoors during the day and indoors at night. Gradually increase the amount of time the seedlings are outside and the amount of sun they’re exposed to until the plants can handle full sun. Transplant the asparagus seedlings into rows spaced about 1 foot apart in a prepared nursery bed. Space each plant about 1 foot from its neighbor and bury the seedlings deep enough to cover their roots. Water well and apply a light layer of straw mulch. How to Care for Asparagus After growing for one year in the nursery bed, asparagus crowns can be transplanted into your main garden in early spring. Before planting, loosen the soil and add amendments, then plant the year-old asparagus crowns in 6-inch deep trenches spaced 2 to 3 feet apart. Fan the plants' roots out, space individual plants 2 feet from each other, cover the roots with 2 inches of soil and follow these quick-care tips to maintain a healthy asparagus crop. Mounding. Every few weeks, add more soil over the asparagus crowns until the crowns are covered with a small mound of earth. In winter, layer 4 to 6 inches of straw mulch over the roots for insulation. Watering. Provide asparagus plants with about 1 inch of water per week. Fertilizing. Fertilize asparagus once or twice a year in early spring, and after harvest, with a well-balanced fertilizer or compost. Weeding. Asparagus doesn’t compete well with weeds and beds need regular weeding. Pruning. Don’t cut the fern-like leaves from asparagus plants until they die back in the fall. Those leaves fuel next year’s growth of asparagus. Harvesting Asparagus If you start asparagus plants from seed, you’ll need to wait at least three years to harvest edible spears. Asparagus season begins in spring and stretches until the end of June, but you should only harvest spears for two to three weeks during the first harvest season. Harvest spears when they’re as wide as your finger and about 6 to 8 inches long, and use a sharp knife to cut the spears off at the soil line to limit plant damage.

How much cold can tomatoes tolerate? Tomatoes are notoriously cold-sensitive, so it helps to know what to do with the plants when temperatures drop. Your tomato plants may still have unripened or partially ripened fruit on them when the thermometer plummets to the freezing mark. Learn how to protect your tomato plants when the cold weather moves in. Watch for Signs of Cold Tomatoes Signs of cold damage on tomatoes, especially young plants, are not always visible. Here are signs to look for if you think your tomatoes are too cold: Light tan or gray spots appear on the leaves of young plants in the spring. A healthy plant can outgrow any damage from a brief cold snap. Any darkening of the leaf or stem tissue will later wilt and turn brown. The leaves are curling. Signs of cold damage that show up on the plants later include: A damaged plant will have poorly set fruit. Plant growth will look stunted. Large-fruited tomato varieties will have deep crevices or holes and scarring in the blossom end (catfacing). A spring cold snap can result in distorted, malformed tomatoes when they are just ripening. Dry, brown scars that look like zippers running from the stem to the blossom end of the tomatoes indicate damage. Damaged tomatoes ripen unevenly.1 Start Tomato Seeds at the Right Time Prevent cold damage by starting your tomato plants from seed indoors at the right time. If you start the seeds too early it will still be too cold to move them outdoors. It's best to start tomatoes from seeds six to eight weeks before your area’s last projected frost date. Don’t Expose Young Plants to Cold Temperatures below 60°F can subject highly cold-sensitive tomato seedlings to chilling injury. The damage won't be noticeable right away but the plants will experience stunted growth, poor flowering and fruit set, and catfacing. Wait to plant the tomatoes until nighttime temperatures remain consistently above 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Take your time hardening off the plants before planting them outdoors in your garden or containers. Select Early- or Mid-Season Tomatoes Choose cold-tolerant tomato varieties bred to set fruit in cooler temperatures below 55 degrees Fahrenheit. These varieties typically also mature earlier. Early-season varieties mature in 52 to 70 days and mid-season tomatoes in around 70 to 80 days. There are many different varieties, both hybrid tomatoes and heirloom tomatoes. Popular varieties include Early Girl (52 days) and Better Boy (75 days). Ripen Green Tomatoes Indoors If the weather forecast calls for frost, don't cover the plant. Instead, pick all unripe tomatoes from your plants and ripen them indoors. How to Protect Tomatoes on Cold Nights If there are still green or semi-ripe tomatoes on your plants around the time of your first average fall frost, keep an eye on the weather and consider these two ways to cover and protect your plants. Bubble Wrap If your plants are growing in tomato cages, protect them by wrapping bubble wrap around the entire cage, including the top, and use duct tape to secure it. It's a good time to prune the plant and remove excess foliage before wrapping it up. Remove the bubble wrap the next morning or you run the risk of excessive heat build-up under the plastic that will cook the plant. Sheets and Blankets You can also cover the plants with old sheets or light blankets held in place with sturdy stakes. Loosely tie a strong string around the plant to secure the cover from blowing away. Promptly remove the cover in the morning.