The eastern red cedar is a slow-growing conifer native to eastern North America that is extremely adaptable to various soils and growing conditions. The species' name is a misnomer, with it being a juniper. The adaptable species can grow almost anywhere, giving it a variety of garden uses. It has allowed horticulturalists to develop specific cultivars to suit landscape needs for almost any situation. Overall the wild type of the eastern red cedar is an attractive needled evergreen with excellent ornamental value due to its winter interest that comes from its startling blue berry-like fruit and gorgeous bark. For those looking to add ecological value, these same cones provide a favorite food source to native birds and wildlife while its lush condensed foliage makes for excellent habitat. An eastern red cedar or one of its many cultivars may be an excellent choice if you want a conifer to add to your landscape. Although not invasive, these are colonizing trees, so if you plant one, expect many more to pop up in the surrounding area. Attributes of the Eastern Red Cedar Pyramidal Salt tolerant Cultivars available Transplants well Good for bonsai Wildlife value Deer tolerant Black walnut resistant Air pollution resistant Caring for an Eastern Red Cedar Planting an eastern red cedar can be a big decision that takes a bit of thought. It can be a large tree that grows slowly, meaning it will be around for a while. Luckily while it can be a huge investment space-wise, its relative ease of care means you will not need to sink much time into the care of the tree once it becomes established in the landscape. Fortunately, being a pioneer species (i.e., a hardy species that is the first to colonize barren environments), it does not take much to establish itself in a given location. Care for the species is concerned mostly with protecting other trees in the area from pathogens that the eastern red cedar carries and ensuring that the species' potential for weediness does not allow it to overtake areas where seedlings are not wanted. Light A young eastern red cedar will do well growing in full sun to part shade, but as it matures, it will do best in full sun areas. Trees grown in less than the full sun that must compete for sunlight will settle into a low-growing shrub-like habit and exhibit a form expressed by more horizontal than vertical growth. If two trees compete, consider removing the smaller of the two to allow the more dominant one to benefit from the full sun as it establishes itself. Soil Of least concern to an eastern red cedar's overall vigor and health is the soil conditions it is planted in. The species does well in poor soils that others would not, which makes it able to thrive in the most intolerable conditions. When planted in good conditions, it prefers it will perform exceedingly well, establish itself quickly, and show a marked increase in growth rate. The tree's most preferred conditions would be rich loamy, consistently moist, and well-draining soil. Extremely adaptable, the only condition the eastern red cedar cannot tolerate is standing water. Save constantly soaked roots; this species can deal with almost any soil. Water Initially, as it is establishing itself, your eastern red cedar will demand a good amount of water until these needs taper off and the tree develops into a tree that can hold its own against some pretty harsh drought conditions. Until it is established, though, right after planting, it is necessary to give an eastern red cedar plenty of supplemental irrigation for the first two growing seasons. Judging the water needs by the soil dampness is the best bet for the species as the tree constantly demands damp soil without allowing standing water to collect. A good way to judge is to press your finger into the soil to a depth of two inches and feel for the soil's moisture. It is time to water your young tree if the soil is dry. Continue doing this throughout the first two growing seasons, checking a few times a week, especially in the summer, more if there are drought conditions. By the third year, you should be able to start tapering off. Temperature and Humidity The range of the eastern red cedar is immense, stretching from eastern coastal Canada south to the Gulf Coast of the United States. There are vast temperature differences in this large swatch of territory, but the eastern red cedar adapts to them all. The commonality is that the temperatures in its growing range never reach extremes. To keep your eastern red cedar healthy and happy, mimic its natural habitat and grow it in moderate temperatures in areas that do not push extreme limits. Keeping it in its happy zones of USDA 2-9 will ensure it thrives. Fertilizer Generally, eastern red cedars do not require any supplemental fertilizer. The species thrives in poor soil as a pioneer species. Adding supplemental fertilizer is unnecessary, especially for wild-type trees. Dwarf varieties or varieties with unique forms, such as abundant fruit-bearing cultivars, may require specific fertilizing. It is best to consult any documentation of the particular cultivar for its exact needs. Types of Eastern Red Cedar Juniperus virginiana has many cultivars with various traits to suit your functional and aesthetic needs. With nearly 40 cultivars available ranging from dwarf to weeping to silver in color and offering excellent disease resistance, nothing should stand in your way from planting this species in your landscape. Juniperus virginiana ‘Burkii’: This male cultivar has a pyramidal shape ranging in height from 10 feet to 15 feet with high resistance to cedar apple rust. Juniperus virginiana ‘Pendula’: This female cultivar has a drooping habit and abundant fruit. Juniperus virginiana ‘Grey Owl’: The dwarf cultivar with an extremely slow growth rate matures around 6 feet wide and 3 feet tall. Juniperus virginiana ‘Emerald Sentinel’: This cultivar is superbly vigorous and hardy, thriving in extreme conditions and the harshest conditions while still looking good. Common Pests & Plant Diseases The eastern red cedar is luckily free from serious disease and pest issues. The only large concern that many will find to be an issue is that the species acts as an alternate host for a fungal disease, cedar apple rust. While this disease does little harm to the eastern red cedar itself, it can cause serious issues to trees in the Malus family, often causing leaf and fruit damage. In early spring, fungal galls will emerge on the juniper tree that must be treated with a copper fungicide to prevent the spread of the disease to any susceptible trees nearby. Ultimately to be safe, all trees in the Malus family should be kept 500 to 1000 feet from any possible host.

Magnolia trees are among the most popular flowering trees available, and it’s not hard to see why. Their large, showy blooms welcome spring every year, and their dense canopy of lush green leaves is often used to provide privacy or shade in landscapes. But not everyone enjoys these classic flowering trees, regardless of their beauty. They are known for being messy and requiring regular maintenance due to falling debris like leaves and petals. Magnolias also have shallow root systems, which can be a problem in areas that frequently experience severe weather events, as these trees can be more prone to damage. Additionally, if you’re on a quest to grow trees and plants native to the United States, unfortunately, magnolias don’t make the cut, says Anna Ohler, owner at Bright Lane Gardens. If you love the idea of a flowering tree but are not set on the upkeep that a magnolia tree may require, we’ve got you covered. Here are seven flowering trees to grow instead of magnolias that are just as beautiful, as recommended by gardening pros. 01 of 07 Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida) If you want a flowering tree that is also a native species, you can’t go wrong with the flowering dogwood (Cornus florida). These stunning trees boast delicate pink or white flowers in the spring, berries in the summer, and colorful fall foliage. They are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9 and are known for being relatively tidy, low-maintenance trees. The only downside? If you’re looking for a full-sun alternative to magnolias, flowering dogwoods probably aren’t the best fit. Ohler says most dogwood species prefer partial shade. 02 of 07 Crabapple (Malus spp.) Crabapples are a wildlife favorite, according to urban forester Ben Heusinkvelt. These small to medium-sized trees produce a spectacular display of flowers each year in the spring, followed by small tart fruits. There are many different species and cultivars to choose from, with several being native to North America if that’s your priority. These trees thrive in full-sun conditions, making them a great alternative to magnolias. “These cold hardy trees are drought tolerant once established and offer a flowering spectacle comparable to a magnolia," Heusinkvelt says. "One whiff of a blooming crabapple and you will be in love." 03 of 07 Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis) Contrary to the name, Eastern redbuds (Cercis canadensis) produce light purple-pink blooms that create a dazzling display in the early weeks of spring. For the best show of blooms, Eastern redbuds should be grown in a bright, sunny location, although they can tolerate part shade as well. They are hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8, with many cultivars. “There are many cultivars of the redbud, including weeping (Weeping Falls) and multi-colored foliage versions (Forest Pansy or Rising Sun)," Heusinkvelt says. "A lesser common variety is a white version known as simply a “Whitebud” (c. Canadensis.f alba.)." 04 of 07 Japanese Lilac Tree (Syringa reticulata) If you love lilac shrubs, Japanese lilac trees (Syringa reticulata) are a great choice. These unique ornamental trees are closely related to their shrubby cousins with creamy white blooms that are similar in form, but are known for blooming later, according to Heusinkvelt. Japanese lilacs grow best in full sun and are hardy in USDA zones 3 to 7. 05 of 07 Serviceberry (Amelanchier) Another native variety to love is serviceberry (Amelanchier). This genus includes about twenty deciduous trees and shrubs native to North America. These plants offer year-round interest, with flowers appearing in the spring, colorful berries in the summer, and striking fall foliage as temperatures cool. “The only downside is the spring flower display doesn't last quite as long as the magnolia's display does, but since those flowers are replaced by berries, I still consider it a win overall!” Ohler says. While hardiness zones vary depending on the species, these trees are known for being very cold-hardy. Many varieties tolerate temperatures as low as -30 F. 06 of 07 Japanese Cherry (Prunus serrulata spp.) Aside from magnolias, few other blooming trees are as popular and well-known as Japanese cherries (Prunus serrulata spp.). These trees shine in spring, boasting stunning pink or white blossoms, depending on the variety. Many different species and cultivars are available, but the ‘Kanzan’ and ‘Sekiyama’ cultivars are undoubtedly two of the most popular choices for home landscapes. These trees thrive in cold winters and warm summers and are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 8. 07 of 07 Crepe Myrtles (Lagerstroemia indica) Magnolias are known and beloved for their large volume of blooms, so if you’re looking for a similarly prolific bloomer, crepe myrtles (Lagerstroemia indica) may be your best choice. “A good runner-up as far as the number of blooms per tree is the Crepe Myrtle," says Lisa Tadewaldt, owner of Urban Forest Pro. "They [have] white or pink blooms in spring, depending on the variety." These small trees are known for growing best in warm climates, with most varieties being hardy in USDA zones 6 to 9. However, Tadewaldt says the white-blossomed Natchez variety is good for gardeners in colder regions.

Dill plants benefit from repeat harvests, regenerating new growth for fuller, bushier plants. Start harvesting when plants are 5 to 6 inches tall with four or five sets of fronds. Harvest dill seeds for pickling when they are bright green. Dill (Anethum graveolens) is a full-flavored, annual herb that completes its life cycle in one season. Harvesting equates to pruning, which means more growth and a full, bushy habit. Done correctly, you'll enjoy dill for fresh use throughout the growing season. Leaves, flowers, and seeds are all edible. Find out how and when to harvest each part of the plant, along with tips for preserving and storing dill for use over winter. When to Harvest Dill Start harvesting dill fronds when plants reach 5 to 6 inches tall with four or five leaf-bearing stems. This herb grows rapidly, so you can start snipping fairly early in the growing season. For best flavor and moisture content, plan your trip to the herb garden in mid-morning, just after dew has dried but before the heat of the day sets in. Repeat harvests generate new growth to extend the plant's life cycle. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! How to Harvest Dill Dill features upright, branching growth with delicate, alternate, fern-like leaves or fronds. Harvested correctly, plants regenerate, putting out more stems and leaves. Use a small snipper to avoid bruising or stripping stems. Here's what to do. Select a plant with four or five fronds, Use your snipper to make a sharp cut across the leaf stem just above the growth point on the main stem. Look for tips of new fronds starting to emerge along a central stem to locate the right spot. Continue harvesting additional leaves and stems with this method, but remove no more than one-third of the leaves at each cutting. The first few harvests will be small, but the amounts increase as the dill plant puts out new growth. Dill flowers and seeds Depending on the variety, dill generates flowers between 45 and 70 days. Once flowers appear, plants cease to put out green growth, signaling the end of the annual life cycle. Hot, dry weather stimulates early flowering, so gardeners in these climates should succession plant for better harvests. How to Harvest Dill Seeds Once flowers open, flavor concentrates at the top of the stems. Seeds form one to two weeks after flowers appear. For pickling use, harvest heads when seeds are bright green. Yellow seeds aren't quite ready, while brown or black seeds indicate flavor and moisture loss. Cut stems just below the heads and store them whole in plastic bags in the refrigerator or freezer. Fresh dill seeds retain the best flavor for pickling. To harvest seeds for saving, wait until they turn brown or black on the plant. Cut stems just below the heads, tie them together, and place or hang them upside down in a paper bag. Once they're completely dry, shake the bag to separate seeds and stems. Harvest leaves with flower heads After dill flowers, leafy growth ceases so this is a good time to harvest most of the remaining usable leaves on your plant. Tips for Storing Dill Freezing fresh dill is often recommended as a better method for storing, however, it depends on your taste and preference. Freezing preserves color and holds flavor longer. Drying initially concentrates on a spicier flavor with less green taste. Wash dill, run it through a salad spinner, and allow it to dry before storing. Wrap clean, fresh dill stems in a moist paper towel or place leaves in a plastic bag. Keep them in the refrigerator crisper drawer for up to two weeks. Leaves can be dried in a low oven or dehydrator. Or tie several stems together and hang them in a dry location out of direct sunlight. Store fresh leaves and seeds for pickling in plastic bags in the freezer for up to 12 months. Expect some flavor loss after six months. Store dried leaves and saved seeds in glass bottles or jars in a cool, dark cupboard. Seeds remain viable for three to five years. Dried leaves lose their green flavor initially, but can be kept for several years.