Grow your health, Grow a garden

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You Should Plant Vegetables Soon for Your Most Bountiful Crop, Gardeners Say

In general, gardeners recommend planting vegetables in early spring to early summer. For fall harvests, some vegetables can be planted in late summer. You can get a head-start by starting seeds indoors, but starting plants too late will make your yield smaller. When should you plant vegetables? Overall, the best time to plant vegetables is between April and November. This broad growing season is divided into two seasons—spring and fall—for different crops. We spoke to three gardening specialists so you can learn when to plant vegetables. These experts will help you understand the difference between spring and fall plantings, as well as planting periods for specific vegetables. When to Plant Vegetables The best time to plant vegetables for a bountiful crop in most locations is from early spring to early summer, according to Paul Dysinger of Seedtime. The other best time for planting vegetables is fall. Spring Though spring is the best time to plant, each crop is different, Dysinger says. "Each location has different suggested times for that location based on average frost dates or climate, including if the crop is a warm weather or cool weather crop." The best time to plant vegetables is spring, agrees Chrissie Handley of Online Turf. This gives the vegetables enough time to germinate in the soil before the growing season begins. Within spring, the ideal time to plant a crop is early enough for it not to be killed or negatively impacted by a frost, leaving as much growing time as possible in the season, Dysinger says. Planting in early spring "means you’ll have earlier yield and stronger and tastier vegetables because of it," adds Handley. Fall For a fall harvest, cool-season vegetables can be planted in early spring (March to April) and again in late summer (August to September), says Chris Ramos, a gardening specialist with Blain's Farm & Fleet. The ideal time is early enough in the summer or fall for the crop to reach maturity by the time day length shortens and temperatures drop, Dysinger says. "At that time, the plant's growth slows down, and crops will no longer grow very quickly, if at all." "Warm-season crops like tomatoes and cucumbers should be planted after the last frost in mid-May," Ramos says. The crops can continue producing until the first frost in October or November. When to Plant Specific Vegetables Specific vegetables will have differing seasonal requirements to grow to their full bounty. Carrots As a cool season crop, carrot seeds should be planted in either of two periods: spring or mid-summer. For spring plantings in most locations in the U.S., Dysinger says, carrots should be planted from February to May. If you're in southern Florida, California, or Texas, it's different, and he suggests planting anywhere from September to March. For fall plantings in most locations in the U.S., carrots can be planted from July to September. "For a fall crop, carrots can stay in the ground until it freezes," Ramos says. Corn Spring corn can be planted from March to June, according Dysinger. However, in southern U.S. states without risk of frost, corn can be planted from October to March. For late corn harvests, corn can be planted from June to August, says Dysinger. Cucumbers Because cucumbers are sensitive, they are best planted in late spring to early summer, Handley says. "Cucumbers should be planted in late May to early June and harvested throughout summer," Ramos says. Kale Plant kale, from January to April for transplants and from February to May for direct seeding, according Dysinger. If you're located in southern Florida, California, or Texas, you can plant kale from September to March. Kale can be planted from July to September for fall plantings in most locations in the U.S., Dysinger says. Lettuce Lettuce should be planted from March to May for a strong yield, according to Handley. Peas Being a hardy vegetable, peas can be planted outdoors from March to April. If you like, you can start peas in a container to get a head start on growing. Potatoes Plant potatoes from late February to April. However, if you are located in a warm area, plant potatoes in late summer or early winter. That way, the potatoes won't be fighting the hottest time of the year—mid-summer. Radishes "Since they're fast growers, radishes are best planted during the high temperatures of summer, or from June to August, to help get continuous yield," Handley says. Tomatoes Tomatoes should be started indoors in late March or early April, according to Ramos. "Transplant the tomatoes outdoors in mid-May, and harvest them from mid-summer, or July, through early fall, or around September to October." Ramos adds that this late harvest—October—depends on your local frost conditions. Planting Before the Best Time Can you plant vegetables before their opportune planting time? You can always start your vegetables indoors where you can control the temperature and growing conditions to make sure the seeds get off to a good start, Handley says. Once you can see them sprouting, you can then move them outside. "This method is great for sensitive vegetables like tomatoes or peppers," Handley says. "But for hardier vegetables like potatoes—which infamously grow in any soil condition—carrots, or peas, you can plant them outdoors in slightly colder conditions." In later spring to early summer, Handley suggests moving your more sensitive vegetables outdoors when temperatures consistently reach above 50°F. Planting After the Best Time Is it too late to start a garden? You can often still plant vegetables after the ideal time has passed. The vegetable harvest may not be as bountiful, though. Even though spring is generally the time to plant vegetables, remember that fall is a second growing season. Vegetables planted in spring are harvested in summer, while fall vegetables are harvested from October to December. So, even if you miss spring plantings, you only have two or three months to wait until fall vegetables roll around in midsummer.

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How to Plant a Tree the Right Way So It Thrives for Decades to Come

Trees are important landscape components that grow slowly but often outlast most other plants. They offer visual height, shade, and a habitat for birds, and well-planted trees could very well outlive you. Adding a tree to your property is a bit more complex than adding a small shrub or garden bed, but that doesn't mean it's too difficult for a DIY. You'll just need to invest time and resources into doing the job right if you want to leave your property more shaded and beautiful than you found it. Here's how to plant a tree the easy way and help it flourish for future generations. How to Plant a Tree Select Your Tree Type The best way to set yourself up for success is to choose a tree that will thrive in your local climate. Look up your region's USDA Plant Hardiness Zone and select a tree that is likely to grow well under local conditions. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Choose a Location Aesthetics isn't the only thing to consider when selecting the best spot for a tree. To figure out where to plant it, start with the process of elimination. You'll need to consider the following: Underground utility lines: Make sure you research your state laws before digging and contact the proper agencies and utility companies to mark underground lines. Sunlight: Most trees need six to eight hours of full sunlight to grow well, so avoid any shaded areas in your yard. Mature size: You'll also want to consider the full size of the tree when it matures, so don't select a location that's too close to structures like your home or other mature trees. Prepare Your Starter Tree If you're relatively new to gardening, planting a starter tree rather than a seed can help give you better results. You'll get to bypass the initial growing stages where more things can go wrong. Before planting a bare-root starter tree, you'll need to soak its roots in a bucket of water for a couple of hours to help them stay moist during the process. For potted starter trees, make sure to water the tree as soon as you get it home. Place it outside near its future dwelling place to allow it to acclimate to the conditions for a week. When you're ready to plant it, gently remove it from its container. Prepare the Hole Adjust the soil: Start by checking your soil's acidity and assessing its health. Most trees prefer loose, loamy, and well-draining soil with a neutral pH. However, you'll want to research your specific tree's needs and adjust the soil accordingly to make it more acidic or to raise the pH. Incorporating organic matter via compost can make the soil looser, more loamy, and better-draining, but it also raises the acidity. It's all about balance. Dig the hole: Dig a hole in your yard that's at least twice the width and about one inch deeper than the starter tree's root system. Set the excavated soil aside: Don't discard the extra soil you've removed from the tree. You'll need it in the next step. Transplant the Starter Tree To transplant your tree, place it upright in the prepped hole. Shovel the excavated soil back into the hole, tamping it gently as you go. Reposition the tree as needed during the process to ensure it stays upright. Add extra soil to the base of the tree in a mound shape, and create a moat around the perimeter for extra water to collect and keep the tree moist as it matures. Apply a thin layer of mulch, leaving a three-inch ring around the base of the tree to allow for air flow. How to Care for a Newly-Planted Tree While a young tree is establishing its root system, it needs some extra attention. Follow these care tips for the first two to three years after planting your tree. Water frequently:Water the tree daily for the first two weeks to prevent root shock, and slowly reduce the frequency after to every other day and then weekly. Once your tree becomes more established, you only need to water it every two to three weeks during dry periods. Keep it mulched: Keeping a young tree mulched will help its roots retain moisture better. Reapply the mulch on an annual basis. You can drop the frequency to once every two years when the tree matures. Stake it: Sometimes, a young tree's root system isn't established enough to support it. If you notice your transplanted tree bending, stake it to prevent it from snapping from the top weight or heavy winds. The Best Time to Plant a Tree You'll want to plant a starter tree into the ground when the weather is mild and when the plant is entering or just starting to end its dormancy period. For most regions, this is during fall or early spring. Both seasons have their pros and cons for planting a tree. Planting a Tree in Fall Planting a tree in the fall gives it ample time to establish its root system before the summer heat kicks in. Since the tree is on its way towards entering dormancy, it can channel its energy into root growth rather than leaf growth. However, you want to make sure you don't plant the tree too late in the fall, or you run the risk of below-freezing temps causing damage to the tree's root system. Planting a Tree in Spring Local nurseries often get a fresh supply of trees delivered in spring, so you should have a great selection to choose from. Just be sure to wait until after the ground has thawed from winter, but don't put it off too long. The warmer temps of early summer can cause the tree to go into shock.

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How to Grow and Care for Dragon Fruit Plant

If you're looking for a truly other-worldly fruit to grow on a plant that blooms only at night with large fragrant flowers, look no further than the dragon fruit plant. Also known as dragon fruit cactus or pitahaya, the plant is native to Mexico, Central America, and South America. Known for its bright pink, leathery skin with thorn-like fins, dragon fruit is sweet on the inside, featuring brightly colored flesh with tiny black seeds. In addition to producing unusual, nutritious, and showy fruit, these fast-growing perennial cacti also have ornamental value in your outdoor landscape. The plants grow up to 20 feet tall and produce aerial roots that allow them to cling to surfaces, creating their creeping, climbing habit. Smaller varieties of dragon fruit cactus are also grown indoors as houseplants. How to Plant Dragon Fruit Cactus When to Plant Dragon fruit cactus is best planted in the early spring to take full advantage of its growing season from March to August. Selecting a Planting Site To successfully grow your own dragon fruit plant, you need a location with well-drained soil in full sun to partial shade and ample space. This is a large, heavy cactus with a spreading habit and long stems. Make sure to plant it 15 to 25 feet away from your home and other structures, trees, and electrical lines. Spacing, Depth, and Support Dig a hole that is 3 to 4 times in diameter and 3 times as deep as the nursery container (this loosens up the soil and aids in root development). Refill the hole with enough soil so that when you place the plant in the hole, it is at the same level as it was in the container. Space plants at least 6 feet apart and support them with a strong trellis. Dragon Fruit Plant Care In tropical or subtropical conditions that mimic its natural habitat, dragon fruit cactus is a fast and vigorous grower. The most challenging part is to get the plants pollinated for fruit production. Light Although dragon fruit plants enjoy warm weather and are often planted in full sunlight, too much intense sun in dry and especially hot regions causes stem damage. If temperatures in your area are frequently near 100 degrees F, it's best to plant your cactus in a spot with partial shade. Too much shade, on the other hand, typically results in less abundant fruit production and the quality of your harvest may not be as impressive. Soil Dragon fruit cacti are not terribly fussy when it comes to soil type or pH level. The key is that the soil is moist, rich in organic matter, and well-draining. Mulch around the base of the plant—especially in drier regions—to help the soil retain its moisture. Water Although the dragon fruit plant has some drought tolerance, to produce a good fruit crop, it's best to water it consistently from the beginning of the bloom to harvest. However, excessive watering risks root rot and various forms of fungal disease. During the winter and into early spring, give the plant less water. Temperature and Humidity Dragon fruit plants are native to tropical regions, they won't survive in areas that experience freezing weather, especially if that freeze is prolonged. Temperatures ranging from 65 degrees F to 80 degrees F at the highest are considered optimal growing conditions. Fertilizer Dragon fruit cacti are fast growers and heavy feeders. During their first year, fertilize them every couple of months with a complete balanced fertilizer, ideally one with a high nutrient content, such as 20-20-20. Once the plants are well-established, they should do fine with just a couple of fertilizer applications in the spring and summer. In addition, amend the soil with compost or organic matter a couple of times a year. Pollination Some dragon fruit cultivars are self-incompatible, which means you may need two to three different varieties to ensure a better chance of fruit production through cross-pollination. The flowers of the dragon fruit plant open at night when there are no bees around; they are mostly pollinated by bats and moths. The flowers of some cultivars remain open in the early morning hours so you might get lucky and bees that are out and about early will find them. If you are growing a variety that is not self-pollinating and want to be sure the flowers get pollinated, you will have to resort to hand-pollination between dusk and dawn. Collect the pollen from the stamen of one variety and gently dab it onto the stigma of another variety. Use a fresh cotton swab for every plant. Types of Dragon Fruit Plant There are about 15 species of dragon fruit plants with different fruit colors, as well as numerous hybrid varieties. Popular ones include: ‘American Beauty’: a self-fertile cultivar of Hylocereus guatemalensis. It has red skin with green bracts and bright, magenta-colored flesh. ‘Dark Star’: a self-sterile hybrid with dark pink skin and purple flesh that has grape-like flavor. ‘David Bowie’: a self-fertile and self-pollinating cultivar of Hylocereusundatus with pinkish-red skin that is covered with numerous green bracts. The flesh is white with a lemony taste. ‘Purple Haze’: a vigorously growing, self-pollinating hybrid. The fruit is large, one to two pounds each, with pink skin and green bracts. The purple flesh is very sweet with hints of grape and kiwi and only a few seeds. ‘Zamorano’: a self-pollinating hybrid with dark red flesh and sweet, mild flavor. It is a slow grower, which makes it a good choice for containers. Harvesting Dragon Fruit You will know your dragon fruit is ready to harvest when the flaps on the pink outer skin starts to develop a withered appearance. If it's ripe, you should be able to twist it from the stem with ease. Any fruit that has fallen from the stem on its own tends to be overripe, so timing your harvest properly is important. If kept in the refrigerator, dragon fruit lasts up to two weeks. The large, edible flowers that are produced by the cactus are also impressive—they tend to be white and have a strong fragrance. However, they are usually nocturnal, so you'll only get to enjoy (and pick) them once the sun has gone down. How to Grow Dragon Fruit Plant in Pots For container-growing, choose a smaller variety such as 'Edgar’s Baby,' 'Alice,' 'Seoul Kitchen,' 'Yellow Dragon Fruit,' or 'Zamorano.' Use a five-gallon container that is at least 10 to 12 inches deep, with adequate drainage holes. To prevent the container from toppling over, a ceramic or terra-cotta pot works better than lightweight plastic. Fill it with nutrient-rich, neutral to acidic potting soil (not cactus soil). To further improve the drainage, place pebbles, stones, or bark at the bottom of the container. Provide a sturdy trellis for the plant to grow on. Pruning Pruning your dragon fruit cactus is key to minimizing the risk of fungal disease and insect infestation. Uncontrolled growth also leads to poor light penetration for the tangled center stems, which impacts fruit production. Regular pruning also encourages prolific flowering and prevents the plant from becoming too heavy for the trellis. Plan to periodically cut back any overly long, damaged, tangled, or dead stems as often as two or three times per year. If you're lucky (or have a younger plant), you may be able to get away with a single annual pruning session after you have harvested the fruit. Propagating Dragon Fruit Plant Propagating dragon fruit from stem cuttings is easy and yields fast results, unlike propagation from seed, which is not recommended because it takes up to seven years before the plant starts bearing fruit. Here is how to use stem cuttings to make a new plant: Take a 10- to 12-inch cutting from a healthy stem. Treat the cut end with fungicide. Let the cutting callus over in a dry, shady place for 7 to 10 days. Dust the cut end with rooting hormone and plant the cutting cut-side down in a pot filled with a well-draining potting mix. Water it lightly and keep it moderately moist. Once the cutting has started to root (check by gently tugging on it), gradually move it to a location with more sunlight. It will take the cuttings 4 to 6 months to develop a good root system, after which they are ready for planting in the landscape or larger pots. When planted from a cutting, you may have a harvest within one to three years. Potting and Repotting A mature dragon fruit plant requires a 25- to 30-gallon size container with a depth of 20 to 24 inches. Given the fast growth rate of the plant, it will require frequent repotting to a larger container with fresh potting soil whenever the plant becomes root-bound. Keep in mind that the roots of the plant are very small and hairy and repotting it requires extra caution in order not to damage them. Overwintering Overwintering measures are only necessary below USDA zone 10, where dragon fruit plant can be grown in containers. Bring the plants indoors when daytime temperatures drop below 65 F and there is any danger of frost. In the spring, wait until all danger of frost is past and the daytime temperatures are consistently above 70 degrees F. In fall and winter, reduce the watering, as the plant goes dormant. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Depending on where you live, wild animals could find your dragon fruit crop appealing. You may need to take measures to protect your cactus and its fruit from rats, raccoons, birds, and more. The plants are also attractive to ants, mealybugs, mites, and thrips. Potential diseases are stem rot or canker, reddish-brown, yellowish, or white spots and lesions on the stems and blades (leaves). Rot and canker can be difficult to contain on a dragon fruit plant. Remove the damaged, infected parts and treat the plant with a fungicide. To avoid these types of issues, ensure your plant gets the right amount of sun, moisture, and air circulation.

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Landscaping Ideas & Inspiration

Get inspiring landscaping ideas and tips on plant selection, hardscaping, and seasonal upkeep.Landscaping gives your yard a polished look by adding practical elements such as paths and helps you solve problems such as poor drainage. No matter the size and shape of your yard, this is where you can find all landscaping ideas and strategies you'll need.

Tiny Tastes Big Dreams

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Bratwurst

Don't just toss them on the grill! Follow our bratwurst recipe to learn how to grill brats the right way, so they're juicy on the inside and snappy on the outside.

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Venison Chili

This easy Venison Chili recipe is hearty and delicious, perfect for the cold months of hunting season or any time you have ground venison in your freezer. And it’s easy to make on the stove, in a slow cooker, or in an instant pot.

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Slow-Cooker Cinnamon Roll Pudding

To avoid this, be sure to beat the eggs well before adding them to the pudding mixture. If you simply crack them into the slow cooker, the whites and yolks can separate leading to an eggy-tasting bread pudding.