Growing sunflowers in pots is easy, but you have to follow specific care requirements. Plant sunflower seeds in a pot that can handle your full-grown sunflowers, so you don't have to repot them. Sunflowers grow best in a full-sun spot on a south-facing windowsill, patio, or porch. When you hear "sunflowers," the idea of growing them in pots may be the furthest thing from your mind. But there are many types of sunflowers, and some of them perform admirably in a pot, provided that you take a few basic steps to ensure their optimal growth. Learn how to plant and grow sunflowers in pots, from sowing the seed to choosing the perfect location for the pot. How to Plant and Grow Sunflowers in Pots Sunflowers are easy to grow, but you can increase your chances of success in the project by taking the following steps: Select a suitable variety to grow in a pot. Select a suitable pot. At the most basic level, match the size of the container to the size that the plant will achieve at maturity. Fill the pot with a potting mix. Sowing seeds directly in the pot, rather than starting the plants on a windowsill and transplanting them later, to avoid transplant shock. Sunflowers grow vigorously enough that you don't have to bother starting them indoors. Provide adequate water. Thin your seedling by selecting the seedling that looks healthiest as the one to keep, then gently remove the rest. This avoids overcrowding. If you want to grow multiple potted sunflowers, buy multiple pots. Locate the pot in a sunny spot. Fertilize your potted sunflower. Deadhead the flowers to encourage further blooming. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Sowing the Seed and Nursing the Seedlings The day before sowing seed, fill the container with potting mix (to within an inch of the rim) and sprinkle the surface with water to help it settle. You will be sowing a few seeds in the pot to ensure that something germinates, but you will be keeping only one seedling. Make your planting holes with a pencil, going down 1/2 inch. Drop a seed in each hole, then tamp down the soil to cover it. Water the soil lightly; do not make the soil soggy. After germination, irrigate regularly, but not excessively. The objective is to keep the soil evenly moist. Wait for the seedlings to put on a few inches of height before selecting the best one and thinning out the rest. The problem with thinning earlier is that young seedlings are particularly susceptible to damage from slugs and snails. A small plant can be decimated overnight by these pests. If you remove all seedlings but one too early, only to have that one destroyed by pests, you'll have to start all over again. Soil Sunflowers grown in containers need good drainage. This is why you'll be using a potting soil rather than garden soil: Potting soil is lighter and drains faster. Sunflowers are also heavy feeders, so they will require fertilization. A slow-release fertilizer is the safest type to use. You can also amend the soil with compost or aged manure. Light Sunflowers need full sun to grow properly. Station your pot in a location that, on a typical sunny day, gets six to eight hours of direct sunlight. Water Your goal in watering is to keep the soil evenly moist. It should not be allowed to dry out completely, nor should it be soggy. Potted sunflowers have to be watered more frequently than those grown in the ground, because containers dry out faster than the ground. But other factors, such as weather, also affect how often you will need to irrigate. To determine when it is time to water again, poke a hole an inch down into the soil: If it is not evenly moist down to that level, then it is time to water. Location In addition to choosing a location with full sun, select one that is sheltered from high winds. Potted sunflowers are very attractive on south-facing decks or patios. Best Sunflowers for Pots There are single-stem sunflowers and branching sunflowers. The single-stem types are great for cut flowers, as they bear large blooms on sturdy stalks. Branching types hold a charm of their own; some gardeners prefer them for patio displays, since they produce multiple blooms. Not all sunflower varieties grow well in pots. Large types, such as Helianthus annuus 'Mammoth,' are ill-suited for pots. Dwarf varieties are more suitable for pots; as a bonus, the shorter the sunflower, the less you will have to worry about it being buffeted by wind gusts. Find seeds for any of the more compact varieties of Helianthus annuus, which include: 'Firecracker': 2 to 3 feet tall, Firecracker is a branching sunflower. It has bicolored flowers (gold and reddish) with dark centers. 'Little Becka': 1 to 2 feet tall, Little Becka is a branching sunflower. It has bicolored flowers (gold and copper) with dark centers. 'SunBuzz': A shorter branching type (up to 20 inches tall), SunBuzz has yellow flowers with dark centers. 'Sunfinity': A taller specimen (up to 4.5 feet), Sunfinity is a branching sunflower that has golden flowers with dark centers. 'Teddy Bear': Teddy Bear is a single-stem type, sporting a large, golden flower that has a fuzzy texture. It stands 2 to 3 feet tall. Mexican sunflowers (Tithonia rotundifolia) are not true sunflowers, but they, too, perform well in pots. Best Pots for Sunflowers What makes a good container for sunflowers is one that: Has a large drain hole (to promote the excellent drainage that potted sunflowers need) Stays cool even while being pounded by the sun Has enough heft to offer stability Is big enough that the soil won't dry out too quickly yet not so big that the soil will retain excessive moisture Is made of a material that "breathes" Terra cotta pots are generally the best choice. Unlike plastic pots, they are porous, which allows for evaporation and keeps soil from becoming waterlogged.

Every gardener growing tomatoes waits for that first juicy, fresh, off-the-vine bite. When the wait seems to go on forever and fruits stay green for weeks, it could be that they aren't getting enough sun. Tomato plants need full sun, or closer to eight hours consistently every day, through all growth stages. When your tomatoes refuse to turn red, they could be getting too little sun. Here's what to know about how much sun tomatoes need, and our best advice on how to get them the light they need to give you the growth you want. Light Requirements for Tomatoes Though tomatoes will have different requirements for light depending on the growth stage, they need 6–8 hours of direct sunlight a day to produce the juiciest fruit—this is considered "full sun." Finding the perfect place to plant tomatoes takes some planning, as light exposure plays a major role through all stages of plant growth. In the early stages, poor light with high temperatures can decrease flower and fruit production, increase vulnerability to fungal and leaf spot diseases, and lead to pests. Later, not enough light produces straggly weak vines and small, poor-quality fruits. During fruit development, too much sun leads to a poor harvest with fruits vulnerable to sunscald, cracking, and uneven ripening. Vegetative Stage During the first 30 to 45 days after transplant, tomato plants grow vines and leaves. This is called the vegetative stage and may be a little shorter or longer depending on variety. Vines grow rapidly and use a lot of nutrients. Since nutrients are delivered through photosynthesis which is dependent on energy from light, a minimum six hours of bright, direct sun is needed during early growth. Flower/Early Fruit Stage Between 30 and 45 days you should begin to see small yellow flowers open on your plants. In this stage light energy supports flowering and fruit set. Small fruits start to form between 70 and 100 days depending on variety. Six hours of light is adequate and eight hours can boost fruit production. Excess heat begins to enter the equation and temperatures above 85 to 90 degrees can reduce flower production and fruit development. Ripening Stage Temperature becomes more important during the ripening phase about 30 days after fruit appears. Lycopene and carotene are pigments that give tomatoes their red color. Ideal temperatures for pigment to develop is 70 to 75 degrees F. When temperatures exceed 85 to 90 degrees F., pigment production is reduced and may even stop. Grown and cared for correctly, foliage shades fruits which takes heat out of direct sunlight for more uniform ripening. Six to eight hours is still needed to maintain healthy plants, especially with indeterminate varieties that produce fruit all season long. Why Morning and Afternoon Light Is Crucial Morning and afternoon light are both important for tomato growth. In the morning, the sun is high overhead, shining directly on the garden. At noon it reaches its highest point during daylight hours. This is when it is strongest, producing the greatest amount of energy.1 Morning light is important because it dries dew, decreases nutrient loss through evaporation, and initiates photosynthesis. Afternoon sun exposure extends the daily energy and growth cycle, giving tomatoes the sunlight quantity they need. The Best Tips to Make Sure Tomatoes Get Enough Sun Plant tomato varieties that grow well in your specific growing zone and climate. Mulch to lower soil temperature and improve moisture retention. Orient your plants in an east to west direction to access the first sunlight in the morning and throughout the day. Consider geographic features that reduce light availability or create microclimates. Avoid pruning or removing leaves during fruit formation and ripening. Plant corn or pole beans on the western side for protection from the hot afternoon sun. Leave adequate space between plants for good air circulation. Consider using white shade cloth which reduces heat but doesn't affect light quality.2 Harvest fruit early as soon as it shows color and keep in a shaded area to finish ripening.

When the weather grows chilly and the days get short, you know pumpkin season has arrived. The quintessential fall crop, pumpkins are typically harvested when the rinds develop their mature coloration, or about 90 to 120 days after sowing. It can be difficult to know exactly when to harvest pumpkins since not all pumpkins turn orange at harvest time (and some varieties mature faster than others). If you’re perplexed by picking pumpkins, these tips will help you harvest sugary sweet pie pumpkins and sturdy carving pumpkins at the perfect time. When to Harvest Pumpkins Different pumpkin varieties mature at different rates, but most pumpkins are harvested from late August through October. To get a better idea of exactly when your pumpkins will be ready, take a look at your seed packet. Most pumpkins are harvested about 90 days after planting, but giant pumpkins and other slow growers can take over 160 days to ripen. 5 Signs Your Pumpkin Is Ready to Pick Pumpkins have a longer shelf life and a sweeter flavor if they’re allowed to fully ripen in the garden. But mature pumpkins can vary significantly in shape, size, and color, which can make it hard to know exactly when they’re ready to harvest. If you want to pick pumpkins at the right time, these signs of ripeness will let you know when your pumpkins are ready. They developed their mature color. While most people associate ripe pumpkins with the color orange, different pumpkin varieties may produce yellow, white, or even greenish-blue fruit! Knowing what color your pumpkins are supposed to be when mature will help you judge when your pumpkins are ripe. The vines are brown and dying. Pumpkins continue to grow as long as their vines are green. But when cold weather hits and the pumpkin vines start to brown and shrivel, it’s time to harvest! Rinds feel tough. Pumpkin rinds thicken as the fruit ages and fully ripe pumpkins should have leathery rinds that are difficult to pierce with your fingernail. Skin is dull. Underripe pumpkins often have glossy skins that catch the sunlight, while ripe pumpkins have dull, matte rinds. The sound is hollow. If you’ve ever knocked on a ripe pumpkin with your knuckles, you know they sound a bit hollow. That’s because pumpkins develop more interior air pockets when they reach a harvestable size. 6 Tips for Harvesting Pumpkins Pumpkins can be harvested one at a time as the fruit ripens, or you can harvest the entire plant in one go if the vine has started to die away. Here are a few tips to make harvesting even easier and protect your pumpkin crop from damage: Wear gloves. Pumpkins have prickly stems and leaves, which can irritate the skin if you don’t wear gloves when harvesting. Harvest on a sunny day. Although pumpkins can technically be harvested in any weather, harvesting pumpkins on a dry, sunny day helps pumpkins cure faster and keeps plant diseases from spreading. Make a clean cut. Fully ripe pumpkins often have dried stems that detach easily from the pumpkin vine. If the stems still feel sturdy, harvest your pumpkins with sharp pruners so you don’t accidentally damage the plant. Leave some stem. Pumpkin stems add a bit of charm, but they also prevent fungi and bacteria from seeping into pumpkins and causing rot. Be gentle. To avoid breaks and bruises, handle your pumpkins gently and never carry them by their stems. Pick pumpkins before a hard freeze. It’s best to leave pumpkins in the garden until they’re fully ripe, but pumpkins should always be harvested before a hard freeze. As long as the pumpkins have started to develop their mature color, they should ripen just fine indoors. How to Store Pumpkins While pumpkins can be eaten or carved immediately after harvesting, pumpkins intended for long-term storage should be cured to thicken up their skins and reduce the chances of rot. Before curing, rinse your pumpkins in a 10% bleach solution and allow them to air dry. Spread your harvest out in a single layer in a warm, dry, and protected spot, and allow the pumpkins to dry and cure for 1 to 2 weeks. After curing, store your pumpkins in a cool location, like a well-ventilated root cellar, or keep them outdoors on a covered porch. Pumpkins stay fresh longer if you store them out of direct sun and keep them in a cool spot that stays between 45 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Whole pumpkins also last longer than carved ones, so wait until just before Halloween to carve jack-o-lanterns.