Rambutan, also known as hairy lychee, is a tropical broadleaf evergreen tree known for its juicy, flavorful fruit. Native to Southeast Asia, rambutan requires moist, well-drained soil, year-round fertilizer, and very warm, sunny conditions. Like longan and lychee trees, rambutans are members of the soapberry family. The fruits have a hairy-looking outer shell containing sweet, floral-tasting flesh that surrounds a large, inedible seed. Here's everything you need to know to grow rambutan plant. How to Plant Rambutan When to Plant Plant rambutan seedlings outdoors in spring once night temperatures are consistently above 60 degrees. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Selecting a Planting Site Choose a site with full sun conditions and loamy, well-drained soil. If possible, select a site that is protected from harsh, drying winds. Spacing, Depth, and Support Ensure that there's a clear space of at least 15 feet around the planting site for the tree to spread as it matures. Dig a hole that's at least twice as wide and the same depth as your rambutan plant's root ball. Remove the plant from its pot and place it in the hole. Fill in the hole so that the soil level hits the same spot as it did in the container. Additional support usually isn't necessary. Rambutan Plant Care Light Plant rambutan in a spot that gets full sun—at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight per day. A site with partial sun for at least 12 hours per day could also work. Be sure to gradually acclimate seedlings or saplings that have been cultivated indoors over a few weeks before planting them outdoors in full or partial sun. Soil Rambutan plants prefer rich, loamy, well-drained soil with a slightly acidic pH (5.5 to 6.5). Avoid planting in areas with heavy clay soils that will retain excess moisture. If you're growing a rambutan plant in a container, use a high-quality potting mix amended with perlite or coarse sand for drainage. Water Water rambutan plants regularly so that the soil remains consistently moist but not soggy. Unlike some other fruit trees, rambutans are shallow-rooted and can experience leaf drop after only a few days without water. However, two to four weeks of water stress can help induce flowering. Add a few inches of organic mulch such as wood chips around the base of the tree to the drip line to help retain soil moisture. Leave 3 to 5 inches of space between the mulch and the stem or trunk of the tree. Avoid letting rambutan plants in containers dry out. Check soil moisture and water when the soil begins to feel dry to the touch. Temperature and Humidity Rambutan plants thrive in temperatures between 70°F and 95°F during the day, though they can withstand temperatures around ten degrees cooler and hotter than that range. Temperatures below 50°F can damage young growth, and conditions below 40°F can cause leaf drop. High humidity of around 75 percent is ideal. Fertilizer Rambutans are heavy feeders, meaning they require regular fertilizing throughout the year to bloom and bear fruit. Feed plants with a balanced liquid plant fertilizer year-round. Rambutan's fertilizer needs will vary as the plant blooms and produces fruit. In winter, change to a 15-30-15 fertilizer to promote blooming, then a 20-10-30 fertilizer to help with fruit set after the plant flowers. After harvesting, return to balanced fertilizer. Pollination Rambutans are naturally dioecious, meaning that a female tree they must be pollinated by a male tree to bear fruit. However, many cultivars are self-pollinating and don't require a second tree to fruit. Types of Rambutan The two main types of rambutan are red and yellow, which is typically how rambutan plants are categorized in the U.S. However, dozens of different cultivars are available in the plant's native range of Southeast Asia, including: Nephelium lappaceum 'Binjai': This high-yielding red rambutan cultivar with firm fruit is the most widely grown in Indonesia. Nephelium lappaceum 'Rongrien': This oval-shaped variety is native to Thailand and turns red with green tips on its hairs at maturity. Nephelium lappaceum 'E35': This compact yellow rambutan cultivar has very sweet fruits that are particularly juicy. Nephelium lappaceum 'School Boy': Deep red shells with green hairs conceal small, sweet fruits that grow profusely on this rambutan cultivar. Harvesting Rambutan Rambutan plants grown from seed can bear fruit in five or six years, though grafted or budded trees can fruit in as little as two years. In tropical climates, trees may bear fruit twice—once in late fall or early winter and again in late spring or early summer. Expect fruits to ripen between 12 and 16 weeks after flowers bloom. When they're ready to harvest, fruits will be completely red or yellow and at peak sweetness. Fruits won't ripen off the tree, so it's best to wait until they are fully ripe to pick. Mature trees can bear several thousand fruits in each harvest. Pruning There's no need to prune rambutan plants regularly, but it's a good idea to remove dead or damaged branches as you see them. Pruning after fruiting can help encourage new growth and keep the tree a manageable size. Propagating Rambutan Rambutan plants can be propagated by sophisticated techniques like grafting and budding, but air layering is easier and simpler for the home gardener. Rambutan plants respond well to air layering, which involves rooting a branch or section of stem while it's still on the mother plant. The best time to propagate rambutan is in spring or summer. Before you begin, you'll need a healthy mother plant, a sterilized blade, sphagnum moss, clear plastic, aluminum foil, and string or twist ties. Here's how to propagate rambutan. Soak a few handfuls of sphagnum moss in water until it's well saturated. Remove the moss and squeeze it to remove excess moisture. Identify a vertical branch on the mother plant that gets plenty of sun. Use a sharp blade to remove a 1 to 2-inch area of bark all the way around the branch. Wrap the damp moss around the exposed area of branch, then wrap a piece of clear plastic around the moss so that no moss is exposed to the air. Use string or twist ties to fasten the plastic around the moss and branch. Wrap the foil around the plastic to shield the moss from direct sunlight. After about 12 weeks, the branch will have grown roots into the damp sphagnum moss. Cut the branch below the root ball and plant it in a container. How to Grow Rambutan From Seed It's possible to grow rambutan plants from seed—including seeds you've saved yourself from a ripe rambutan fruit. The fresher the seeds are, the better your chance of germination. Carefully remove the flesh from around the seed, avoiding cutting or bruising the seed in the process. Rinse the seed to remove any residue from the flesh, then soak it in room-temperature water overnight. Plant the seed in a small container of fresh potting mix one inch deep with the flat part of the seed pointing down. Water the soil and keep it consistently moist. Keep the pot in a bright, very warm place, or use a heat mat to warm the soil. The rambutan seed should germinate within two weeks of planting. After the seed sprouts, put it outdoors in a place that gets full, direct sunlight. If keeping the seedling indoors, use grow lights to provide adequate light. Overwintering If you're keeping a rambutan plant in a container outdoors, you'll want to begin the process of bringing it inside a few weeks before night temperatures drop below 60 °F. Gradually acclimate the plant to shadier conditions over two weeks or so. When you're ready to bring it in for good, follow steps for bringing plants indoors for the winter, such as soaking the root ball to drive out insects and inspecting foliage for pests or damaged leaves. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Common pests such as fruit flies, moths, fruit borers, and fruit webbers can affect rambutan plants. In tropical regions, birds may also eat green or ripe fruits. While rambutan plants aren't susceptible to many plant diseases, they may be affected by fungal issues like powdery mildew.

Snapdragons (Antirrhinum majus) are popular perennials usually grown as annuals with a short-lived blooming period. The name comes from the shape of the individual flower heads, which look like the snout of a dragon. Bright snapdragon flowers bloom well in cool weather with intensely saturated colors (in almost every hue) and are real standouts in either the spring or fall garden. They come in many varieties and sizes; you can find one to suit your needs at a few inches, four feet, or anything in between. Snapdragons are great plants for containers, baskets, or filling garden wall crevices as they can fit a variety of areas. From germination to flowering takes about two or three months, and as a result are often started indoors weeks—or even months—before the last frost. Snapdragon Care Snapdragons are rather slow-growing when planted from seeds, so they are normally planted from purchased nursery seedlings, which are widely sold in economical six-packs. They can also be grown fairly easily from seeds started indoors weeks before the last winter frost. They do best in rich, well-draining soil in a sunny location, though they'll tolerate part shade. Pinching off the stem tips on young plants will make them bushier, and deadheading the spent flowers will extend the bloom season, often right until the first frost. Light Snapdragons will bloom most profusely in full sun to partial shade. Once the temperature heats up, they may stop blooming altogether. Planting them in part shade and keeping them well-watered will help them make it through the summer and they will likely bloom again in fall. Soil Snapdragons like a neutral soil pH between 6.2 and 7.0, rich in nutrients and well-draining. As short-lived plants, they are not heavy feeders, but adding organic matter will help keep them healthy and blooming. Water Keep seedlings moist for the first few weeks. Once established, snapdragon will need approximately one inch of water per week in times of no rainfall. Water near the crown of the plant and avoid overhead watering to keep your snapdragon healthy. Once established, let the top inch of soil dry fully before watering. Temperature and Humidity Snapdragons are tender perennials that are hardy in USDA zones 7-11. They prefer cooler temperatures and are at their best when nighttime temperatures are in the low 40s and daytime temperatures are in the low 70s. For this reason, they are usually grown as annuals. Once established, snapdragons can withstand sub-freezing temperatures. If you make sure they stay well-watered during cold spells and add a layer of pine straw mulch, they can last for quite some time and will survive quite low temperatures until the chill has passed. Snapdragons prefer average humidity within the 40 to 70 percent range. Fertilizer Apply fertilizer when the plants first start producing flowers. Use a standard, well-balanced all-purpose fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10 product, at a rate of three pounds for every 100 square feet of the flowerbed. Water well after fertilizing. Types of Snapdragon Snapdragons are usually sold as multi-color blends, but you can sometimes find individual colors in both seeds and seedlings. Named varieties come and go every few years, but some of the more classic series include: Rocket series: This is a very dependable multi-colored series that grows about 2-3 ft. tall. It is a mainstay of the garden center offerings. Madame Butterfly mix: These 24- to 30-inch plants have heavily ruffled flowers in all colors, and are an excellent choice for cut-flower arrangements. Tutti Frutti: This shorter 10- to 12-inch series offers unique speckled and striped flowers. Candy Tops mix: These are short, 6- to 8-inch plants in solid tones of yellow, orange, white, red, and rose. They make excellent edging and bedding plants. Chandelier mix: This is one of the better trailing, draping snapdragons, with flowers that are lilac, pink, or yellow. Propagating Snapdragons Snapdragons are fairly inexpensive to purchase as nursery seedlings and easy to grow from seeds, but if you wish you can also propagate them from stem cuttings. Cut a 2-inch section of stem just below a leaf node on a healthy parent plant. Remove the lower leaves and dip the bottom of the cutting in rooting hormone. Plant the cutting into seed starter mix or potting soil, covering the pot with a plastic bag or dome to keep the cutting humid. Once a good root system develops, remove the cover and continue growing in a bright window or under artificial lighting. Transplant outside shortly after the last frost. How Grow Snapdragons from Seed In milder climates, snapdragons can be winter-sown. They can also be direct-sown in the garden a few weeks before the last expected frost. Snapdragons are relatively slow-growing, so they are often started indoors six to 12 weeks before the last expected frost. Use a general seed starting mix or ordinary potting soil, and press the seeds onto the surface of the soil. Position the tray under bright lights—the seeds need light to germinate. Keep the light on for 16 hours per day. When seedlings have developed about six true leaves, pinch off the top of the stem, which will encourage branching and bushiness. Transplant snapdragons outdoors a couple of weeks before your last frost date. Snapdragons can handle a light frost or two. Overwintering These short-lived perennials are usually grown as annuals. Even when they do overwinter, snapdragons never seem to bloom as robustly as they did in their first year. However, they should form seed pods in the first year; if you are lucky, they may even self-sow in the garden. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Rust fungus can be a significant problem with snapdragons. If rust does appear in a planting, it is best to grow snapdragons in another part of the garden the following year. This plant is also susceptible to mold, fungal leaf spots, downy mildew, wilt, and root rots.1 Aphids and spider mites are the most common pest problem, which may require the use of pesticides or horticultural oils in severe infestations. How to Get Snapdragon to Bloom Snapdragons are known for their colorful blooms. They start blooming in early spring and keep blooming all season long. They are short-lived perennials that act like annuals and don't usually flower for more than one season. The right amount of sunlight is the secret sauce to getting your snapdragons to bloom. From full sun to partial shade, adjusting the amount of sun your plants get is the answer. Deadheading the dying flowers will keep your plant blooming abundantly. Common Problems With Snapdragon Snapdragons are a never-go-out-of-style summertime bloom. They're bright and cheery, and memorable additions to the summer months. But sometimes, snapdragons have easy-to-fix problems: Wilting Leaves, Fewer Flowers Snapdragons will start to falter if they get too much heat and sunlight. Move them to a cooler, shadier spot, and trim them down to encourage new blooms and less wilting. Yellow and Brown Flecks on the Leaves Snapdragons often get a fungal disease called snapdragon rust: yellow flecks are the first sign, and those flecks may get darker and larger, with brown or black centers. To treat snapdragon rust, stop it before it starts. Thin out your plants and let air circulate around them. Also, don't water your snapdragons at night. Plants Toppling Over In shady spots, where snapdragons can get particularly leggy, taller varieties may get top-heavy and fall over. The fix is easy: protect plants with supports to keep them standing tall.

If you're a patient and adventurous gardener, why not grow a date palm (Phoenix canariensis) from seed? This slow-growing, evergreen palm is native to the Canary Islands and reaches 40 to 60 feet tall and 20 to 40 feet wide. If you're not in a tropical climate, it will be more compact if grown as a container plant that can summer outside on a patio and then be brought indoors when temperatures drop. Whether you are lucky enough to collect date palm seeds yourself or use seeds from ripe grocery store dates, we have all the information you need to germinate the seeds, pot them correctly, and grow a robust palm. Potting and Caring for Germinated Date Palm Seeds After your date palm seeds have germinated and begin to show tiny shoots above the potting soil, keep the soil evenly moist but not overly wet. Place the seedlings in a spot that receives bright sunlight for 6 to 8 hours per day. Wait until the seedling is at least three inches high with at least two sets of leaves before moving it to a larger pot. Pick a container. Select a container that is four to six inches in diameter with good drainage holes. Date palms prefer to be slightly rootbound for optimum growth so start with a small container after germination. Fill with soil. Fill the container about one-third full with nutrient-rich, loamy soil. Remove the germinated seed. Use a large spoon or garden trowel to gently lift the root ball of the germinated palm seed. Place the seed in soil. Place the palm in the container and fill it with soil tamping it down lightly to get rid of any air pockets. Water. Water the palm well until water drains from the bottom. Do not leave it sitting in a saucer of water. Move it to an ideal location. Place the palm in a brightly lit, warm spot (around 75°F) to recover from the shock of transplanting. The palm can be kept inside or outside depending on your hardiness zone and time of year. Always Start With a Container If you plan to plant the palm in your garden, it is still best to transplant germinated seeds into a container. Horticulturists recommend waiting until a date palm is around five feet tall before transplanting outside.1 How to Care for a Date Palm Give a container or garden-planted date palm six to eight hours of direct sunlight each day. Young palms should be watered at least weekly to keep the soil moist to encourage growth.2 Once established, the palm will be more drought-tolerant. Potted palms will require more frequent watering, and drainage is important because standing water can cause root rot. When planting or potting, use a nutrient-rich, loose, loamy soil. Established date palms in the garden should be fertilized in early spring and again in mid-summer with a slow-release fertilizer that is high in potassium. Follow the label directions for the amount to use based on the size of the tree. Repot a date palm only when roots are visible through the drainage holes. Spring or early summer are the optimum times to repot because the temperatures are warmer and humidity is higher. Select a new container that is 2 inches wider and deeper. Gently remove the root ball from the container to prevent damaging the roots. Add fresh soil to the new container, place the palm, gently tamp down the soil, and water thoroughly. Date palms require little pruning except to remove dead or damaged fronds. Once the tree reaches maturity, suckers will grow from the base of the tree and should be removed. Once the tree begins to bear fruit, harvest the ripe dates so new clusters will have room to form. Fun Date Palm Facts Fruit production requires both a male and female plant growing near each other. A female date palm produces about 20 pounds of dates. Mature fruits appear in red or orange clusters, oblong and 1 to 3 inches long. It can take around eight years for a date palm to reach maturity. How to Germinate a Date Seed Separate the seed from the flesh of a ripe date. Place the seed in cool water and soak for at least 24 hours. Discard the seed if it floats to the top. Fill a small container with a seed-starting mix and moisten the soil. Press the seed into the soil until it is barely covered with soil. Place the container in a warm spot with bright light. Keep the soil moist by placing a glass jar or plastic bag over the container until germination occurs. The seed should germinate in about one month, at which point they should be potted.