We all know it's important to eat your vegetables, and dark leafy bitter greens are a great addition to any diet. They are a great source of fiber, rich in vitamins K and C, provide iron, calcium, folate, and carotenoids, and act as antioxidants to help remove free radicals from the body. In addition to their nutritional benefits, bitter greens are easy to grow in the winter, and tastier for it; cold temperatures break down starches into simple sugars, producing a milder, sweeter taste more palatable for even the pickiest of eaters. Do Brassicas Actually Get Sweeter After a Frost? University of Tennessee. Learn more about the 5 easiest bitter greens to grow in a patio container or your garden this winter. Spinach Spinach plants (Spinacia oleracea) prefer cooler weather and will produce new tender growth if harvested regularly. In the fall, wait until the soil temperature has dropped below 70°F for good seed germination and sow in a nutrient-rich, loamy soil. You can also purchase seedlings for a quicker harvest. Harvesting of leaves that are between three and six inches long can begin about 37 to 45 days after planting. Start by picking the outer leaves and then harvest the newer leaves as they reach the desired size. "A 3-inch high raised bed with good drainage will reduce the problem of damping off in young seedlings," says Clemson University fruit and vegetable research associate Justin Ballew. Kale Kale (Brassica oleracea) is one of the most popular greens to grow in winter because there are so many varieties. You can grow kale from seed or transplants for an earlier harvest. The best soil temperature for planting kale is 60°F to 65°F and every variety will have a sweeter taste if it is harvested after the first frost. Cabbage Cabbage (Brassica oleracea) is a cool-weather crop that forms a tight center head of the most tender leaves. While it can be grown from seed, cabbage seedling transplants will bring an earlier harvest. Cabbage grows best at around 60°F to 65°F but can tolerate temperatures down to 20°F. Plant spacing will affect how large the head forms so each plant should be at least 12 inches apart. Cabbage plants prefer evenly moist, well-draining soil throughout their growing time. Cabbage requires about 70 days to mature from the time of planting. Once the heads are firm to the touch, they are ready to be harvested. Collards Collards (Brassica oleracea var. viridis) are considered a delicacy in the southern U.S. when at their best in the winter after the first frost. The new, tender collard leaves can be eaten raw but larger leaves must have the center stem removed and then cooked for the best flavor. Collard plants grow with a center stalk and the leaves should be harvested from the bottom of the plant. Pick only a few leaves from each plant so the plant will continue to grow upward producing more leaves. Ballew says that collard microgreens will be ready to harvest 10 to 15 days after seeding with the plant reaching full maturity in 60 to 80 days depending on the cultivar. Mustard Mustard greens (Brassica juncea) are grown for their spicy leaves and seeds. Some varieties are grown for their seeds used to flavor brown mustard. If you're looking for bitter greens, these cultivars are exceptionally tender and flavorful: ‘Carolina Broadleaf’: tender, lightly ruffled, light green leaves ‘Red Giant’: large, maroon-tinged leaves ‘Savannah’: a milder, hybrid mustard with smooth, rounded leaves Mustards reach maturity between 25 to 50 days from sowing, depending on the cultivar. Regular harvesting will help the plants continue to produce tender leaves. As warmer temperatures arrive, the plants will bolt and should be removed from the garden. Why Grow Bitter Greens in Winter? Bitter greens are a cool-season crop that should be planted outdoors in very early spring or late autumn. These plants can withstand freezing temperatures, and will not thrive in the heat and high humidity of summer. Even if you can keep the plants alive during the summer, they will not be as tasty as those grown in winter. Periods of cold temperatures break down the starches in the leaves into simple sugars producing a milder, sweeter taste.2 If you have enjoyed the rewards of gardening during the summer, planting bitter greens in the fall will provide nutritious, fresh produce throughout the winter.

One of the most powerful garden scents of spring comes from hyacinth flowers (Hyacinthus orientalis) in bloom. Even at a distance, you'll notice these flowers' intense fragrance and the spikes of bright tubular flowers emerging from strap-shaped leaves. Introduced to Europe during the 16th century, hyacinth's popularity sparked Dutch bulb growers to breed more than 2,000 cultivars by the 18th century, and today there are about 60 to choose from in commercial cultivation. Modern hyacinths are some of the easiest-to-grow perennial spring bulbs. Hyacinths will return every year, though their flowers will diminish in vigor after a few seasons. They are best planted in the fall and have a moderate growth rate. Hyacinths can grow outdoors in the ground or pots, as well as indoors in a bulb vase filled with water. Keep them out of the reach of kids and critters as the bulbs are toxic to humans and pets. Hyacinth Care Here are the main care requirements for growing hyacinth: Plant in a slightly acidic to neutral soil in full sun to partial shade. Water well after the bulbs are planted, but allow the ground to dry before the next watering. Bulbs can be fertilized upon planting. Grow hyacinth in large groups for the strongest and farthest-reaching scent. Planting Most varieties of hyacinth bulbs are fairly large. For spring garden blooms, plant hyacinth bulbs in the fall six to eight weeks before the first frost (between October and December). They should be placed root end down (widest side down) about 4 to 6 inches deep. Give them some room to spread out by spacing them about 3 to 6 inches apart. Cover with soil, and water well. Light Hyacinths like full sun to partial shade. Aim to give the plants at least six to eight hours of sunlight a day. As with all spring bulbs, hyacinths sprout, bloom, and start to fade before deciduous trees fully leaf out, so you don't have to worry about too much shade from nearby trees. Soil Hyacinth bulbs are not particular about soil pH, but they prefer a slightly acidic to neutral soil. They also do best in soil that is loose and well-drained; they will not tolerate wet soils. Rich soil can lead to floppy stalks, so go easy on the organic matter when preparing or amending the soil. Water Water the ground well after you plant the bulbs. Continue watering into winter if there is no regular rain, but allow the ground to dry out between watering. If the bulbs sit in cool, wet soil, they will eventually rot. Check the ground by sticking your finger in, and water only when it's totally dry. Usually, this is once or twice a week, depending on your climate. Generally speaking, about 1/2 inch of water per week—combined irrigation and rainfall—will be sufficient for hyacinths. But this depends on how well the soil drains. Temperature and Humidity Hyacinths can be expected to survive the winter in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 to 8. They might need some winter protection in colder zones and some pre-chilling in warmer zones, depending on the variety. In zones where winter temperatures remain above 60 degrees Fahrenheit, dig up the bulbs and chill them somewhere dark and cold for six to 10 weeks before replanting. Fertilizer The easiest way to feed new bulbs is to toss some bulb food into the hole at planting time. There are many fertilizers available for feeding bulbs—10-10-10 is recommended—or you can use an ordinary bone meal. Feed the bulbs a mere handful at planting and again in the spring when the new growth first appears by scratching some bulb food into the nearby soil and watering well. For the amount to use, follow the product label instructions. Types of Hyacinth Modern hyacinths come in many colors. Some varieties include: 'Hollyhock': Offers striking reddish-pink double blooms 'Pink Pearl': Has fuchsia petals that are edged in pale pink 'Woodstock': Boasts deep plum petals 'Blue Jacket': Features a denser bloom structure and deep purple-blue flowers 'Top White': Offers bright white florets that are star-shaped 'City of Haarlem': This heirloom variety has been popular since the late 1800s and features yellow petals that mature to a pale yellow-creamy white. How to Force Hyacinth Bulbs It’s possible to force hyacinth bulbs indoors into early blooming. Simply plant a bulb in a container filled with well-draining potting mix, ensuring that the container also has drainage holes. The bulb tip should be just above the soil line. Place the container in a dark spot that remains between 33 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Allow it to sit there for at least 10 weeks as roots develop. Green shoots will also start to grow. Once the shoots grow to around an inch, start to slowly increase light and warmth. Water to keep the soil lightly moist but never waterlogged, and avoid hitting the shoots when watering. Once the plant has buds, move it to a sunny window with bright, indirect light to wait for your flowers to open. Pruning Once the bulbs have finished blooming, cut off the flower stalks but allow the leaves to remain. This will encourage the plants to store energy in their bulbs for next season. Propagating Hyacinth Like most perennial bulbs, hyacinths are best propagated by splitting offset bulbs from the parent plant in the fall. This method can take two or three years before the bulblet grows to a size sufficient to produce large, vibrant flowers. Thus, propagating hyacinths is an activity best practiced by serious enthusiasts. Here's how to propagate hyacinths by splitting off the offset bulbs: After the flowers have faded but before the foliage has begun to turn brown (usually in late summer or fall), dig up a mature hyacinth with a trowel. Make sure to wear gloves when handling hyacinths, as the bulbs have toxins that can cause skin irritation. Wash off the soil, and separate the clump into individual bulbs—the parent bulb and bulblets. Replant the bulbs immediately into well-draining soil. Mixing in sand or compost is a good idea if your soil is dense. A handful of bone meal or bulb fertilizer is also recommended at planting time. How to Grow Hyacinth From Seed While hyacinths can be propagated from seed, it can take several years to coax the seed into creating a bulb and to nurture the bulb into a sizable structure that will produce a flowering plant. First, you’ll have to allow your hyacinth blooms to remain on the plant to form seed pods. These pods will ripen from green to tan as they form small black seeds inside. The pods will dry and split open; you can catch the seeds by putting a white sheet under the plant or wrapping pantyhose around the flowers themselves. Separate the seeds, and soak them in warm water for one to two days. Place them between two moist paper towels in a plastic bag, and put them in the refrigerator to sprout. Once they’ve sprouted, slightly press them into a seed tray filled with moist seed-starting mix, and place them in a cold frame or greenhouse to continue growing. Potting and Repotting Hyacinth When planting in pots, either plastic or clay will do as long as they have good drainage. The container should be roughly 6 inches deep. The width of the container depends on how many bulbs you are planting. Hyacinth bulbs in pots can be spaced more closely than when planted in the ground because the bulbs won't need room to multiply. You can squeeze them in so they are almost touching, but leave room for some soil in between to hold water. Repotting should not be necessary if you have properly spaced your bulbs. Ordinary commercial potting soil is fine for planting hyacinths in containers, though some people like to blend in a little sand with the potting mix. Keep the potting medium damp but not soaking wet until the bulbs sprout. Then, water whenever the soil dries out. Once the bulbs have sprouted, move them to indirect sunlight. Cool temperatures will keep them in bloom longer. Overwintering In colder zones (USDA zones 2 and 3), applying a thick layer of mulch over the bulb bed can allow hyacinth bulbs to survive cold winters. You also can position the bulbs an inch or two deeper at the time of planting to help insulate them. In zones 4 to 8, no winter protection should be necessary. However, if your hyacinths are outdoors in containers, cover them or move them to a sheltered spot to prevent the containers from accumulating too much moisture and rotting the bulbs. If you are growing hyacinths in zone 9 or above, where winter temperatures stay above 60 degrees Fahrenheit, you will need to dig up your bulbs and chill them artificially before replanting. Store them in a mesh bag in a cool, dark spot that remains above freezing but below 45 degrees Fahrenheit for 10 weeks minimum. Common Pests & Plant Diseases All kinds of rodents will munch on hyacinth bulbs. You can give them some protection by throwing a handful of gravel into the planting hole, or you can try commercial rodent deterrents. An easier method is to interplant them with daffodils, which rodents tend to avoid.5 Few plant diseases affect hyacinths, but the bulbs can rot when planted in dense soil that doesn't drain well. How to Get Hyacinth to Bloom Bloom Months Hyacinth typically blooms in mid-spring, between March and April. Blooms can last for a few weeks, usually until the end of April and sometimes May. What Does Hyacinth's Flowers Look and Smell Like? Hyacinth flowers feature long, bright green leaves and bell-shaped petals. The bright tubular flowers that come in many colors such as white, blue, purple, pink, and red. The blooms have a sweet floral scent that can be powerful. Hyacinth also mix well with other spring-blooming bulbs, as they come in so many colors and sizes. Their spiky flower stalks make a nice counterpoint to cup-shaped tulips and ruffled daffodils. How to Encourage More Blooms Hyacinth bulbs are generally low-maintenance and bloom quite easily on their own in the spring. That being said, you can give yours a leg up by cutting down the flower stalk when this year's blooms fade. Then, when its leaves turn yellow, cut them away as well. Feed them once they bloom, and again in August, to give them a boost for the following spring. But be aware that most gardeners find it necessary to replant hyacinths (or lift and divide them) every two or three years to keep them blooming robustly. Like many hybrid bulbs, hyacinths lose their vigor rather quickly. Common Problems With Hyacinth The hyacinth is a reliable plant that will give you several years of aromatic blooms, but occasionally there are unfortunate issues. Spotted Foliage If you've had a late frost after the foliage has appeared, hyacinth leaves can develop disfiguring spots. Sadly, there is not much you can do about it, but in some cases, it will not affect the flower stalks that later appear. Broken, Streaked Petals Broken and streaked petals can be caused by the mosaic virus, which also can cause mottled leaves. Infected plants will need to be dug up and thrown away. Sterilize any tools you use to do this; they, too, can spread the disease. Small Flowers It is normal for hyacinths to bloom less robustly with every subsequent season. You can prolong their lifespan by regular feeding. Propagating new plants by dividing mature hyacinths can keep you in blooming plants almost indefinitely. Taller varieties can tend to flop. You can stake them if you only have a few, or plant them closer together so that they support one another.

Herb gardens are a staple for many gardeners. Not only are herbs fairly easy to grow, but you also get the added benefit of being able to harvest them on a regular basis for your cooking—and say goodbye to wasted store-bought herbs that go off in your fridge. But if you're considering adding mint to your garden—or are already growing it—you may want to think twice. We talked to expert gardeners to find out why you should never grow mint in the garden, and what to grow instead. Why You Shouldn't Grow Mint in the Garden Gardeners say you shouldn't grow mint in your garden because it can spread rapidly. "The main reason to not grow mint is that it tends to be very invasive and difficult to get rid of once it has become established," says Edwin Dysinger, co-founder of Seedtime. Anna Hackman, farmer and managing member at The Naked Botanical, agrees, and says mint can very easily crowd out other plants so they don't receive enough water, soil, nutrients, or even sunlight. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Can You Still Grow Mint at Home? If you still want to grow mint at home, you have some options. First, Hackman suggests having dedicated beds for your mint, which is something she does herself in her own garden. "I have dedicated beds for my mints and each mint is separated so one doesn't push the other out," she says. Hackman also says if you do want to grow mint but are worried about it taking over your garden, there's an easy answer: grow it in containers, but don't plant the container in the ground. "You will need to pull out some of the mint periodically, so it doesn't choke itself," she says. "I made the mistake thinking I could contain it in a container buried in my garden bed and mint found its way out." Alternatives to Growing Mint Hackman has a self-professed "mint addiction," and grows several varieties like pineapple mint, green apple mint, spearmint, peppermint, and chocolate mint. She also suggests a couple of alternatives, if you like the aroma and appearance of mint but would rather grow something less invasive in your garden. "If you want to grow a mint-like plant, I recommend mountain mint or lemon balm," she says. "Lemon balm will self-seed but you can cut it before it flowers. It generally stays in the same vicinity and doesn't get that large." Mountain mint, she says, is pollinator-friendly and will attract lots of bees, but is a larger option and can grow up to 40 inches. Hackman says there are a range of varieties of mountain mint to fit your needs.