With bright green leaves and a refreshing flavor, parsley is a must-grow herb. If you want to keep plants productive and healthy, know how to harvest parsley and avoid overharvesting, which can cause plant stress and impaired growth. Whether you grow parsley from seeds or nursery starts, this guide will help you time your parsley harvest to perfection. Learn how to harvest parsley the right way to keep your plants healthy and your kitchen brimming with fresh herbs. When to Harvest Parsley Parsley is typically harvested from spring through fall either as a cut-and-come-again herb or in larger quantities for freezing or drying. However, if plants are grown indoors in pots, parsley can be harvested in winter, too. Fast-growing and adaptable, parsley can be kept in container gardens or larger herb beds and harvested just 70 days after sowing parsley seeds—nursery-started plants can be picked even earlier. Note that harvesting parsley too early can be detrimental to plant health, so it’s best to wait until plants are at least 6” tall and have well-formed leaves with at least 3 leaf segments before harvesting. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! How to Harvest Parsley the Right Way Harvest parsley in the morning. Parsley can technically be harvested at any time of the day, but if you want to get the best flavor out of your plants, pick parsley in the morning before the sun is high overhead. Parsley leaves contain the highest concentration of flavorful oils at this time of the day. Cut or pinch entire stems. Gather the parsley stems you’d like to harvest with one hand and cut or pinch the entire stems off just above the soil line with your fingers or a sharp pair of kitchen shears. Harvesting the entire stem will rejuvenate plants and encourage new growth. Work around the exterior of the plant. Parsley plants produce new leaves towards the center of the plant, so harvest the leaves around the exterior of the plant first. This will refresh the look of your parsley and prevent older leaves from going to waste. Don’t overharvest. Young parsley plants should be harvested sparingly by clipping off just a few stems at a time. Older plants, on the other hand, can be picked a bit more aggressively, but avoid harvesting more than 1/3 of your plant at once. Repeat. Parsley is a fast-growing herb that can be harvested again and again throughout the season as needed for recipes. Established plants can be harvested daily in small quantities, but it’s best to give plants a week or two to recover in between harvests if you gather a lot of parsley stems at once or harvest from young plants. Remember, frequent harvesting encourages parsley plants to produce even more leaves. How to Keep Parsley Growing for Years Parsley is a biennial herb that only grows for two years even with the best of care. As a result, many gardeners grow parsley as an annual and sow new parsley seeds every spring. But, parsley plants can be overwintered and harvested in the spring of their second year if desired. If you’d like to harvest second-year parsley plants, overwinter your parsley indoors or harvest your plants in early fall before the stems die back in cold weather. Outdoor parsley will lie dormant in gardens through winter and begin to grow new leaves in spring, while indoor plants can continue to grow through the winter months. Once parsley starts to produce new leaves in spring, harvest the stems regularly until the plant starts to bolt or flower. When flowering begins, it’s best to harvest the entire plant as bolting changes the flavor of parsley leaves. But if you want to gather parsley seeds for future planting, let your plants flower and gather the dried seeds when the parsley flowers fade.

Growing perennial herbs is a savvy way to save money in the garden and make gardening chores a lot easier. However, keeping track of the herbs that are actually perennials can be a bit of a challenge since many perennial herb plants are commonly treated like annuals in cold climates. To help you out, we’ve compiled a list of popular perennial herbs below, including a selection of the most cold hardy plants that can survive winters in the chilliest gardens. What Are Perennial Herbs? Perennial herbs are relatively long-lived plants that take more than 2 years to complete their life cycle. These plants are winter hardy in their native habitat and often get quite large as they mature. Many of our most popular culinary herbs are technically perennials, including most mints and woody-stemmed herbs like lavender. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! What Are Annual Herbs? Herbs that are true annuals often have tender stems and a fast growth rate and they complete their entire life cycle in less than a year. That means that if you plant annual herb seeds in spring, you can expect your plants to reach their mature size, flower, and produce seeds all before they die back in fall. Dill, cilantro, and other herbs in the carrot family fall into this category; however, many perennial herbs are treated like annuals when they’re planted outside of their hardiness zone. Perennial vs. Tender Perennial Herbs Although tender perennial herbs are technically perennial plants, tender herbs are sensitive to the cold and they don’t survive winters in chilly climates. Most growers cultivate tender perennial herbs, like basil, as annuals and allow their plants to die back in fall. However, cold-sensitive herbs can be kept alive for years by overwintering them indoors or in a heated greenhouse. If you want to grow perennial herbs with minimal effort and don’t want to bother with overwintering plants indoors, select herbs that are winter hardy in your growing zone. Many cold tolerant, perennial herbs can be cultivated outdoors year round without winter protection—and some can even be harvested when they’re covered in snow. Common Perennial Herbs From apple mint to winter savory, there are many perennial herbs to choose from. But just because herbs are perennials, doesn’t mean they’ll necessarily grow perennially in your area. Before planting any of the following herbs in your garden, doublecheck their hardiness zone to make sure they can survive winters in your garden. Anise Hyssop Apple Mint Bay Laurel Bee Balm Bronze Fennel Catnip Chives Chocolate Mint French Tarragon Garlic Chives Lavender Lemon Balm Lemon Thyme Lemon Verbena Lovage Marjoram Mountain Mint Oregano Peppermint Pineapple Sage Roman Chamomile Rosemary Sage Salad Burnet Shiso Spearmint Stevia Sweet Cicely Thyme Winter Savory 11 Perennial Herbs to Grow Many growers dream of having a large herb garden brimming with fresh herbs for cooking, tea making, and more. But if you don’t have a lot of room for growing herbs, reserve the space you do have for the herbs you use the most in your recipes and plants that are well-suited to your growing zone. If you’re having a hard time choosing between herb plants, here’s a list of 11 perennial herbs that are especially versatile in the kitchen and easy to care for. Bay Laurel If you use a lot of bay leaves in your cooking, why not grow a bay laurel tree (Laurus nobilis) or two and harvest your own bay leaves for recipes? Although bay laurels only grow perennially in USDA zones 8 through 10, these plants thrive in roomy pots and can be cultivated indoors in cold locations. Among their many charms, bay laurel plants are relatively pest-proof, they’re long-lived, and their glossy green leaves have lots of aesthetic appeal. Chives Chives grow well in gardens or pots, and they can be used—fresh or dry—to flavor salads, soups, baked potatoes, casseroles, and many more dishes. Incredibly cold tolerant, chives grow perennially in zones 3 and up and they’re fantastic companion plants for attracting bees and other pollinators to veggie gardens. If you’re tired of classic chives, try growing garlic chives instead and use the garlic-flavored leaves in any recipe that calls for garlic cloves. Lavender Many growers cultivate lavender plants just for their richly scented leaves and charming, purple flowers. However, English lavender is edible and it can be used in desserts, brewed into teas, or infused into creative cocktails and mocktails. Like many other woody-stemmed herbs, lavender grows best in full sun and well-draining soil, and most varieties are winter hardy from zones 5 through 9. Marjoram There are several types of marjoram, but the most common variety for cooking is only hardy from zones 9 and up. If you live in a warm location, you can grow marjoram outdoors year round, but growers in colder areas should move their plants inside in winter if they want to keep them around. Marjoram leaves taste a bit like citrus mixed with pine and they can be used to elevate the taste of pasta sauces and other savory treats. Mint Growers have lots of mint plants to choose from, but peppermint and spearmint are usually the easiest plants to find at garden centers. Apple mint, chocolate mint, lemon balm, and catnip also fall into the mint category and, like other mint plants, they grow best when they’re provided with regular water and plenty of sun. Most mint plants grow aggressively and they should be kept in pots or dedicated raised beds to avoid invasiveness; however, native mountain mint plants are more mild-mannered and they’re especially attractive to native bees. Oregano Another cold hardy herb, common oregano grows perennially in zones 4 and up, and plants often remain evergreen through the winter months. In fact, you may be able to harvest small quantities of oregano leaves even when there’s snow on the ground and use those leaves to flavor pizza sauces, soups, and other cozy treats. For more variety, try lesser known oregano varieties like Greek oregano, Mexican oregano, or Syrian oregano. Roman Chamomile German chamomile and Roman chamomile are both grown for herbal teas; however, only Roman chamomile grows perennially. Compared to German chamomile, Roman chamomile plants are relatively short and they sport smaller, white and yellow flowers that are highly attractive to pollinators. Picking chamomile flowers every day or two keeps plants productive, and it’s the best way to boost the size of your chamomile harvest. Sage A classic herb for flavoring roasted meats and veggies, sage plants maintain a relatively upright growth habit and usually max out at around two to three feet tall. These plants grow well in pots or garden beds, but they should be kept in full sun and well-draining soil to avoid issues like root rot. Most culinary sage plants boast soft, silvery-green leaves, but if you love lots of garden color, you may want to grow purple or tricolor sage instead. Tarragon Hardy in zones 4 and up, tarragon is a popular ingredient in French cuisine and its licorice-flavored leaves are often blended into butter or infused into vinegar or olive oil. As with other homegrown herbs, tarragon leaves can be used fresh or they can be frozen or dried for longer term storage. Not only are tarragon plants tasty, but their buttery orange flowers bring lots of color to herb beds and flower pots—and they’re highly attractive to pollinators, too. Thyme Another woody-stemmed herb from the Mediterranean region, thyme prefers to grow in well-draining, sandy soil and full sun. While common thyme is the most popular thyme variety for culinary use, adventurous gardeners may want to grow other types of thyme instead. Lemon thyme, for instance, is prized for its lemony flavor; while creeping thyme has a particularly low growth habit and can be used as an edible ground cover or grass alternative in lawns. Winter Savory Unlike summer savory, winter savory is a perennial plant that has woody stems and a deep, rich flavor with notes of black pepper and pine. Hardy to zone 4, winter savory is often grown as a marjoram substitute in cold climates, but it’s also useful as a pest-repelling companion plant in vegetable gardens. If you want to dry woody-stemmed herbs like winter savory, gather the herb stems in bundles and hang them in a warm, dry place with good air flow until the stems are thoroughly dry and brittle.

How much cold can tomatoes tolerate? Tomatoes are notoriously cold-sensitive, so it helps to know what to do with the plants when temperatures drop. Your tomato plants may still have unripened or partially ripened fruit on them when the thermometer plummets to the freezing mark. Learn how to protect your tomato plants when the cold weather moves in. Watch for Signs of Cold Tomatoes Signs of cold damage on tomatoes, especially young plants, are not always visible. Here are signs to look for if you think your tomatoes are too cold: Light tan or gray spots appear on the leaves of young plants in the spring. A healthy plant can outgrow any damage from a brief cold snap. Any darkening of the leaf or stem tissue will later wilt and turn brown. The leaves are curling. Signs of cold damage that show up on the plants later include: A damaged plant will have poorly set fruit. Plant growth will look stunted. Large-fruited tomato varieties will have deep crevices or holes and scarring in the blossom end (catfacing). A spring cold snap can result in distorted, malformed tomatoes when they are just ripening. Dry, brown scars that look like zippers running from the stem to the blossom end of the tomatoes indicate damage. Damaged tomatoes ripen unevenly.1 Start Tomato Seeds at the Right Time Prevent cold damage by starting your tomato plants from seed indoors at the right time. If you start the seeds too early it will still be too cold to move them outdoors. It's best to start tomatoes from seeds six to eight weeks before your area’s last projected frost date. Don’t Expose Young Plants to Cold Temperatures below 60°F can subject highly cold-sensitive tomato seedlings to chilling injury. The damage won't be noticeable right away but the plants will experience stunted growth, poor flowering and fruit set, and catfacing. Wait to plant the tomatoes until nighttime temperatures remain consistently above 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Take your time hardening off the plants before planting them outdoors in your garden or containers. Select Early- or Mid-Season Tomatoes Choose cold-tolerant tomato varieties bred to set fruit in cooler temperatures below 55 degrees Fahrenheit. These varieties typically also mature earlier. Early-season varieties mature in 52 to 70 days and mid-season tomatoes in around 70 to 80 days. There are many different varieties, both hybrid tomatoes and heirloom tomatoes. Popular varieties include Early Girl (52 days) and Better Boy (75 days). Ripen Green Tomatoes Indoors If the weather forecast calls for frost, don't cover the plant. Instead, pick all unripe tomatoes from your plants and ripen them indoors. How to Protect Tomatoes on Cold Nights If there are still green or semi-ripe tomatoes on your plants around the time of your first average fall frost, keep an eye on the weather and consider these two ways to cover and protect your plants. Bubble Wrap If your plants are growing in tomato cages, protect them by wrapping bubble wrap around the entire cage, including the top, and use duct tape to secure it. It's a good time to prune the plant and remove excess foliage before wrapping it up. Remove the bubble wrap the next morning or you run the risk of excessive heat build-up under the plastic that will cook the plant. Sheets and Blankets You can also cover the plants with old sheets or light blankets held in place with sturdy stakes. Loosely tie a strong string around the plant to secure the cover from blowing away. Promptly remove the cover in the morning.