Planting onion sets or slips in autumn has some distinct advantages and is much like planting garlicor shallots. But success isn't always guaranteed. Timing, along with your specific growing zone, and choosing the right onion variety all make a difference between big, flavorful bulbs and small bulbs or ones that fail to develop. This guide tells you when and how to plant autumn onions for a bountiful harvest the following spring and summer. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Why Plant Onions in Fall? Onions establish and develop green tops and roots in cooler weather which translates to bigger and more flavorful bulbs. In northern zones, spring planted onions need to get into the ground early which can be challenging unless you have already prepared a raised bed or garden area. Setting them out in autumn gives plants a head start, allowing them to establish before winter frost and freezing. After several frosts, plants go dormant. When temperatures start to rise in spring and day hours lengthen, your onions are ready to direct energy into growing bulbs. Keeping autumn-planted onions free of weeds is easier as many garden weeds have died back. How to Plant Onions in Fall Both sets and slips (young plants) need four to six weeks to establish tops and roots before frost sets in. Find the first frost date in your zone and back time to find out the best day/s for planting. Start by digging a trench 2 to 3 inches deep and 2 inches wide. Fill the bottom of the trench with an inch or two of well-aged compost. Place the sets or slips about 1/2 inch into the compost layer allowing 4 to 6 inches in between each onion. Place sets with the pointed end facing up. Fill the rest of the trench with soil, covering the onion with about 1/2 inch of soil. If you start with slips, leave any green tops above the soil surface. Water and mulch with a thin layer of straw or dried leaves. Once new green growth appears, add more mulch and continue to water every few days. You'll need a mulch layer of at least 6 inches to protect roots when ground freezes. Best Onions for Fall Planting Onion sets are widely available in spring, sold as yellow, white, or red, and often not identified by variety. Try searching online or in garden catalogs to find sets or slips for autumn planting. Look for varieties most successful in your growing zone. Onions are categorized as short-day, intermediate, or long-day. Keep in mind that sets need 80 days and slips need up to 110 days to mature from the time they're planted. Here are a few onion varieties to consider for autumn planting. 'Electric': Winter hardy with shiny red skin and pink-tinged flesh. Mild, sweet flavor. 'Radar': Yellow, globe-shaped Japanese variety. Mild flavor and good bolt resistance. 'Snowball': A short-day variety with medium-sized, slightly flattened bulbs. A mild but tangy onion best for eating fresh. 'Granex': Large, globe-shaped bulbs are mild and sweet. A short-day variety and a popular choice for southern gardens. 'Walla Walla': Extra large bulbs mature in 90 days. This long day type is comparable to Vidalia onion in flavor. Spring and Summer Harvesting Once soil warms in spring and day time hours increase, autumn planted onions start forming bulbs. Short day onions are the quickest to bulb up and ready to harvest in as few as 75 days in late April and early May. Intermediate and long day types will be ready to harvest from early to mid summer. The sooner daylight hours reach the time needed for bulbing, the sooner you'll be able to harvest good size onions. When bulbs are mature, they sit partially above soil level and the green tops turn yellow and flop over. Mature bulbs can remain in the ground for one or two weeks but if left too long they become vulnerable to thrips and can soften and rot.

Purple basil is a striking natural variety of green basil. Unlike Thai basil or cinnamon basil, it does not so much stand out by a different taste as by the color of its leaves. With its vibrant foliage, purple basil is a unique addition to any herb garden. The best way to use purple basil in the kitchen is as a garnish for dishes, rather than processing it for pesto or cooking with it, as the color is the most distinct when the leaves are fresh. What Is Purple Basil? Purple variations of Ocimum basilicum range in color from light red to deep purple. The varieties of purple basil offered by nurseries and seed companies today resulted from extensive breeding of purple basil varieties over many years. Purple basil tends to crossbreed and despite plant breeders’ best efforts, the desirable genetic traits of basil, namely the leaf color, are often unstable and get lost over time. Be prepared to see some variation in the plants, even in those from the same seed packet. 8 Varieties of Purple Basil Purple basils vary in height, leaf color and shape, and intensity of aroma. Some types are open-pollinated, which means that you can collect the seeds, and others are hybrids (marked as F1 in seed catalogs). The seeds from those plants are not worth saving because they won’t produce plants that are true to the parent. Varieties of purple basil include: ‘Dark Opal’ (12-18 inches tall) is a popular cultivar that has been around for a long time—it was an All-American Selection (AAS) winner in 1962. It has violet-purple leaves with a hint of licorice. The flowers are pink. In university trials, it has shown resistance to downy mildew. ‘Purple Ruffles’ (18-24 inches tall) stands out by its large, glossy, dark purple leaves that are ruffled and fringed. This is the second purple basil that became an All-America Selection winner though it does not have the same assertive anise fragrance as ‘Dark Opal’. The flowers are light lavender with a dark fuchsia throat. ‘Red Rubin’ (18-20 in. tall) is a newer, improved version of ‘Dark Opal’ with more uniformly colored leaves. The burgundy-red leaves have a traditional sweet basil flavor and aroma. The flowers are a beautiful lavender-purple color. ‘Amethyst’ (16-20 inches tall) is the darkest purple basil variety available with almost black stems and foliage. The leaves are turned downwards and have an intense basil flavor. The flowers are purple. It is also available as the cultivar ‘Amethyst Improved’. ‘Prospera Red’ (18-24 in. tall) features large (3-inch), gently cupped dark purple leaves similar to ‘Amethyst’ with a flavor of Genovese basil. The plant has an upright growth habit. It is a hybrid with resistance to downy mildew and Fusarium wilt. ‘Deep Purple’ (12-18 in. tall) has vibrant dark purple leaves with sweet basil flavor and a low rate of green off-foliage. Its uniform, upright growth habit makes it a favorite for containers. ‘Purple Ball’ (12 in. tall) is ideal for small spaces and containers with its compact, tidy, round growth habit. It forms a dense ball of small, purple-plum leaves that are fragrant and aromatic. ‘Rosie’ (12-18 in.) grows strong, upright stems, which makes it easy to harvest and ideal for bouquets it’s especially pretty with its tall lavender flower spikes. The leaves have an intense dark purple-red color with a mild and aromatic basil flavor. ‘Rosie’ has no to little green off-foliage. How to Grow Purple Basil Growing purple basis is very similar to taking care of green basil, whether you plant it in your garden or in pots (and if you have a sunny window, you can even grow it indoors). Since purple basil comes in different heights, make sure to give your plants sufficient space. Crowded conditions lead to insect and disease issues such as aphids and powdery mildew. If you start purple basil from seed, you will need to thin out the seedlings. The seed package will specify the proper spacing for the variety. Light Purple basil needs six to eight hours of full sun every day. Ample sunlight not only ensures that the leaves will be purple but also healthier, stronger plants with fewer disease problems. Soil The soil for purple basil should be moist, rich, and well-draining. If the soil is lacking these qualities, amend it with compost before planting. Organic matter not only adds nutrients but also helps to retain soil moisture. Water Keeping your purple basil well-watered at all times is key—it is not an herb that tolerates drought. Water slowly but deeply in the absence of rain whenever the top inch of soil feels dry. Use mulch around the plant base to keep moisture in. Temperature and Humidity Like green basil, purple basil needs heat to thrive. Don't plant it until the daytime temperatures remain in the 70s and nighttime temperatures are above 50°F. Basil is very sensitive to cold, which blackens its leaves. Fertilizer Unless you are growing purple basil purely as an ornamental and don’t cut it regularly, you need to fertilize the plant frequently. Use an organic slow-release vegetable fertilizer and scatter the granules around the plant base, avoiding the stem. For faster results, feed it with a liquid organic fertilizer such as fish emulsion. Follow the label directions for the frequency of applications and amounts. Harvesting You can start harvesting basil leaves as soon as the plants reach 6 to 8 inches in height. Pick the leaves regularly to keep the foliage growing. Always start harvesting basil leaves from the top of the plant and not the bottom. The flowers of purple basil are edible too. In addition to using them as a garnish, they also make a gorgeous magenta-colored vinegar.

One of the most powerful garden scents of spring comes from hyacinth flowers (Hyacinthus orientalis) in bloom. Even at a distance, you'll notice these flowers' intense fragrance and the spikes of bright tubular flowers emerging from strap-shaped leaves. Introduced to Europe during the 16th century, hyacinth's popularity sparked Dutch bulb growers to breed more than 2,000 cultivars by the 18th century, and today there are about 60 to choose from in commercial cultivation. Modern hyacinths are some of the easiest-to-grow perennial spring bulbs. Hyacinths will return every year, though their flowers will diminish in vigor after a few seasons. They are best planted in the fall and have a moderate growth rate. Hyacinths can grow outdoors in the ground or pots, as well as indoors in a bulb vase filled with water. Keep them out of the reach of kids and critters as the bulbs are toxic to humans and pets. Hyacinth Care Here are the main care requirements for growing hyacinth: Plant in a slightly acidic to neutral soil in full sun to partial shade. Water well after the bulbs are planted, but allow the ground to dry before the next watering. Bulbs can be fertilized upon planting. Grow hyacinth in large groups for the strongest and farthest-reaching scent. Planting Most varieties of hyacinth bulbs are fairly large. For spring garden blooms, plant hyacinth bulbs in the fall six to eight weeks before the first frost (between October and December). They should be placed root end down (widest side down) about 4 to 6 inches deep. Give them some room to spread out by spacing them about 3 to 6 inches apart. Cover with soil, and water well. Light Hyacinths like full sun to partial shade. Aim to give the plants at least six to eight hours of sunlight a day. As with all spring bulbs, hyacinths sprout, bloom, and start to fade before deciduous trees fully leaf out, so you don't have to worry about too much shade from nearby trees. Soil Hyacinth bulbs are not particular about soil pH, but they prefer a slightly acidic to neutral soil. They also do best in soil that is loose and well-drained; they will not tolerate wet soils. Rich soil can lead to floppy stalks, so go easy on the organic matter when preparing or amending the soil. Water Water the ground well after you plant the bulbs. Continue watering into winter if there is no regular rain, but allow the ground to dry out between watering. If the bulbs sit in cool, wet soil, they will eventually rot. Check the ground by sticking your finger in, and water only when it's totally dry. Usually, this is once or twice a week, depending on your climate. Generally speaking, about 1/2 inch of water per week—combined irrigation and rainfall—will be sufficient for hyacinths. But this depends on how well the soil drains. Temperature and Humidity Hyacinths can be expected to survive the winter in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 to 8. They might need some winter protection in colder zones and some pre-chilling in warmer zones, depending on the variety. In zones where winter temperatures remain above 60 degrees Fahrenheit, dig up the bulbs and chill them somewhere dark and cold for six to 10 weeks before replanting. Fertilizer The easiest way to feed new bulbs is to toss some bulb food into the hole at planting time. There are many fertilizers available for feeding bulbs—10-10-10 is recommended—or you can use an ordinary bone meal. Feed the bulbs a mere handful at planting and again in the spring when the new growth first appears by scratching some bulb food into the nearby soil and watering well. For the amount to use, follow the product label instructions. Types of Hyacinth Modern hyacinths come in many colors. Some varieties include: 'Hollyhock': Offers striking reddish-pink double blooms 'Pink Pearl': Has fuchsia petals that are edged in pale pink 'Woodstock': Boasts deep plum petals 'Blue Jacket': Features a denser bloom structure and deep purple-blue flowers 'Top White': Offers bright white florets that are star-shaped 'City of Haarlem': This heirloom variety has been popular since the late 1800s and features yellow petals that mature to a pale yellow-creamy white. How to Force Hyacinth Bulbs It’s possible to force hyacinth bulbs indoors into early blooming. Simply plant a bulb in a container filled with well-draining potting mix, ensuring that the container also has drainage holes. The bulb tip should be just above the soil line. Place the container in a dark spot that remains between 33 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Allow it to sit there for at least 10 weeks as roots develop. Green shoots will also start to grow. Once the shoots grow to around an inch, start to slowly increase light and warmth. Water to keep the soil lightly moist but never waterlogged, and avoid hitting the shoots when watering. Once the plant has buds, move it to a sunny window with bright, indirect light to wait for your flowers to open. Pruning Once the bulbs have finished blooming, cut off the flower stalks but allow the leaves to remain. This will encourage the plants to store energy in their bulbs for next season. Propagating Hyacinth Like most perennial bulbs, hyacinths are best propagated by splitting offset bulbs from the parent plant in the fall. This method can take two or three years before the bulblet grows to a size sufficient to produce large, vibrant flowers. Thus, propagating hyacinths is an activity best practiced by serious enthusiasts. Here's how to propagate hyacinths by splitting off the offset bulbs: After the flowers have faded but before the foliage has begun to turn brown (usually in late summer or fall), dig up a mature hyacinth with a trowel. Make sure to wear gloves when handling hyacinths, as the bulbs have toxins that can cause skin irritation. Wash off the soil, and separate the clump into individual bulbs—the parent bulb and bulblets. Replant the bulbs immediately into well-draining soil. Mixing in sand or compost is a good idea if your soil is dense. A handful of bone meal or bulb fertilizer is also recommended at planting time. How to Grow Hyacinth From Seed While hyacinths can be propagated from seed, it can take several years to coax the seed into creating a bulb and to nurture the bulb into a sizable structure that will produce a flowering plant. First, you’ll have to allow your hyacinth blooms to remain on the plant to form seed pods. These pods will ripen from green to tan as they form small black seeds inside. The pods will dry and split open; you can catch the seeds by putting a white sheet under the plant or wrapping pantyhose around the flowers themselves. Separate the seeds, and soak them in warm water for one to two days. Place them between two moist paper towels in a plastic bag, and put them in the refrigerator to sprout. Once they’ve sprouted, slightly press them into a seed tray filled with moist seed-starting mix, and place them in a cold frame or greenhouse to continue growing. Potting and Repotting Hyacinth When planting in pots, either plastic or clay will do as long as they have good drainage. The container should be roughly 6 inches deep. The width of the container depends on how many bulbs you are planting. Hyacinth bulbs in pots can be spaced more closely than when planted in the ground because the bulbs won't need room to multiply. You can squeeze them in so they are almost touching, but leave room for some soil in between to hold water. Repotting should not be necessary if you have properly spaced your bulbs. Ordinary commercial potting soil is fine for planting hyacinths in containers, though some people like to blend in a little sand with the potting mix. Keep the potting medium damp but not soaking wet until the bulbs sprout. Then, water whenever the soil dries out. Once the bulbs have sprouted, move them to indirect sunlight. Cool temperatures will keep them in bloom longer. Overwintering In colder zones (USDA zones 2 and 3), applying a thick layer of mulch over the bulb bed can allow hyacinth bulbs to survive cold winters. You also can position the bulbs an inch or two deeper at the time of planting to help insulate them. In zones 4 to 8, no winter protection should be necessary. However, if your hyacinths are outdoors in containers, cover them or move them to a sheltered spot to prevent the containers from accumulating too much moisture and rotting the bulbs. If you are growing hyacinths in zone 9 or above, where winter temperatures stay above 60 degrees Fahrenheit, you will need to dig up your bulbs and chill them artificially before replanting. Store them in a mesh bag in a cool, dark spot that remains above freezing but below 45 degrees Fahrenheit for 10 weeks minimum. Common Pests & Plant Diseases All kinds of rodents will munch on hyacinth bulbs. You can give them some protection by throwing a handful of gravel into the planting hole, or you can try commercial rodent deterrents. An easier method is to interplant them with daffodils, which rodents tend to avoid.5 Few plant diseases affect hyacinths, but the bulbs can rot when planted in dense soil that doesn't drain well. How to Get Hyacinth to Bloom Bloom Months Hyacinth typically blooms in mid-spring, between March and April. Blooms can last for a few weeks, usually until the end of April and sometimes May. What Does Hyacinth's Flowers Look and Smell Like? Hyacinth flowers feature long, bright green leaves and bell-shaped petals. The bright tubular flowers that come in many colors such as white, blue, purple, pink, and red. The blooms have a sweet floral scent that can be powerful. Hyacinth also mix well with other spring-blooming bulbs, as they come in so many colors and sizes. Their spiky flower stalks make a nice counterpoint to cup-shaped tulips and ruffled daffodils. How to Encourage More Blooms Hyacinth bulbs are generally low-maintenance and bloom quite easily on their own in the spring. That being said, you can give yours a leg up by cutting down the flower stalk when this year's blooms fade. Then, when its leaves turn yellow, cut them away as well. Feed them once they bloom, and again in August, to give them a boost for the following spring. But be aware that most gardeners find it necessary to replant hyacinths (or lift and divide them) every two or three years to keep them blooming robustly. Like many hybrid bulbs, hyacinths lose their vigor rather quickly. Common Problems With Hyacinth The hyacinth is a reliable plant that will give you several years of aromatic blooms, but occasionally there are unfortunate issues. Spotted Foliage If you've had a late frost after the foliage has appeared, hyacinth leaves can develop disfiguring spots. Sadly, there is not much you can do about it, but in some cases, it will not affect the flower stalks that later appear. Broken, Streaked Petals Broken and streaked petals can be caused by the mosaic virus, which also can cause mottled leaves. Infected plants will need to be dug up and thrown away. Sterilize any tools you use to do this; they, too, can spread the disease. Small Flowers It is normal for hyacinths to bloom less robustly with every subsequent season. You can prolong their lifespan by regular feeding. Propagating new plants by dividing mature hyacinths can keep you in blooming plants almost indefinitely. Taller varieties can tend to flop. You can stake them if you only have a few, or plant them closer together so that they support one another.