Tomatoes come in two varieties: determinate (bushy) and nondeterminate (vining). Determinate tomatoes do better in containers while nondeterminate tomatoes grow better in the ground. Containers are better for deterring pests, while plants in the ground will need less frequent watering. Tomatoes are a staple in nearly every vegetable garden: they’re easy to grow, provide bountiful yields, can be grown in pots and the ground, and there are endless varieties to choose from. And one of the best parts about growing tomatoes is how versatile they are. From sprawling vegetable gardens to tiny patio gardens, tomatoes can withstand various growing conditions. However, is one method of growing inherently better than the other? Is growing tomatoes in the ground better than growing them in containers? We turned to the gardening pros for a definitive answer. Tomato Growing Basics While beginner-friendly and easy to grow, tomatoes require consistent maintenance and care for the most successful and fruitful yield. A basic understanding of how tomatoes grow and the different varieties available is the first step in any gardener’s toolbox. “Most people don’t realize that tomatoes come in two varieties—determinate (bushy) and indeterminate (vining)—and knowing the difference is key to planting success,” says Sarah Rubens, garden coach and founder of Seed to Sanctuary. Determinate tomato varieties, such as ‘Celebrity,’ ‘San Marzano Nano,’ ‘Amish Paste,’ and ‘Marglobe’ (among others), have a short harvest season with fruit ripening all at once. In contrast, indeterminate varieties, such as ‘Beefsteak,’ ‘Big Boy,’ ‘Sungold,’ and ‘Sweet Million,’ (among others) provide a steady supply of ripe fruit throughout most of the growing season until the first frost kills off the plants. In general, determinate varieties are considered lower-yield and lower-maintenance, while indeterminate varieties provide higher yields but require more maintenance. Regardless of the variety, all tomato plants require plenty of water, regular fertilization, and pruning (although indeterminate tomatoes need more pruning than determinate). Which Is Better: Containers or the Garden? The garden may seem like the most obvious answer; more space means healthier plants, right? As it turns out, the answer isn’t necessarily that simple. Several factors influence the best way to grow your tomatoes, including the variety you’re growing and your gardening habits. As a general rule, determinate tomatoes are best suited to container growing because they are smaller and more manageable. In contrast, indeterminate tomatoes are better suited for planting directly in the ground since they require robust staking and support as they grow. This includes many heirloom and cherry varieties. Your gardening habits and the space you have available also play a role. For example, container gardens and pots can be easier to maintain regularly, while in-ground tomatoes may get more easily forgotten at the back of your yard. Both Rubens and Tammy Sons, CEO and founder of TN Nursery, agree that, in general, they prefer container growing for tomatoes over planting directly in the ground. “My experience growing tomatoes shows that both ground planting and container gardening have their own unique benefits," Sons says. "The convenience of containers appeals to me because they can be moved when the weather changes and serve as a defense against pests. There's no better feeling than standing on the porch and taking a sun-warmed tomato from a door-side pot." For more prolific indeterminate varieties, Rubens says that raised beds are her go-to. A raised bed offers sturdier support for stakes and arches that may be required for these vining varieties. Furthermore, planting in raised beds versus directly in the ground provides better soil control and monitoring. This includes monitoring moisture and drainage levels, preventing soilborne diseases, and regular fertilization. “A 17-inch-deep raised bed accommodates a strong structure, such as a securely anchored arch, allowing vines to spread and maximize yield,” Rubens says. Benefits of Growing Tomatoes in Containers While determinate varieties are better-suited to container growing, indeterminate varieties can be grown in containers too. Sons and Rubens include raised garden beds in this category. Container growing tomatoes offers several benefits which may be enticing to gardeners. These include: Better soil control (including drainage, prevention of soilborne diseases, etc.). Containers can be easily moved (to follow the sun or protect plants from adverse weather). Plants are more easily accessible on the patio or deck. Plants can be protected from pests. Pots and containers are more space-efficient. Benefits of Growing Tomatoes in the Ground Growing tomatoes directly in the ground is also a viable option, regardless of the variety. The following benefits may entice gardeners interested in planting their tomatoes in the ground: Plants require less frequent watering. Supports such as stakes and arches can be firmly anchored. It may be easier to set up drip irrigation systems for watering. There’s endless space for roots to spread, which is particularly beneficial for large heirloom varieties. Plants will likely produce larger yields since they have more space to grow.

Butterfly weed is a milkweed plant that attracts butterflies to the garden with its clusters of bright orange-to-yellow blooms rich with nectar and pollen. This clump-forming perennial grows two feet tall from tuberous roots with glossy green, lance-shaped leaves. It requires at least eight hours of full sun and well-draining soil and can handle a wide range of temperatures, from freezing to high heat. Unlike other milkweeds, butterfly weed does not have caustic milky sap, but it is still considered mildly toxic to humans and animals. Butterfly Weed Care Plant butterfly weed in late spring after the soil warms. Do not expect it to bloom the first year; flowering may take three years. Blooms last about two months, from late spring until late summer. A. tuberosa produces seed pods that release silky-tailed seeds to disperse on the wind. Here are the main care requirements for growing butterfly weed: Grow butterfly weed in a sunny spot with well-draining soil. Sow seeds directly in the garden—butterfly weed does not require much tending to to thrive, Water a new plant well during its first growing season, but the plant will prosper even in drought-like conditions when established. Its seed pods will turn brown towards the end of the growing season (early autumn) and will burst to spread seeds throughout your garden, which emerge as new volunteer plants the following spring. While the plant can take up to three years to fully mature and produce flowers, its blooms will gradually grow denser with each season that passes. Light Choose a spot in your garden that boasts bright sunlight daily, as this plant loves to soak up the rays. Full sun is your best bet. Soil Butterfly weed can prosper in various soil conditions and compositions, from sand to gravel, and it generally prefers a neutral to slightly acidic pH. Water During its first year of life (or until new plants start showing mature growth), you should maintain a moist soil environment for butterfly weed, giving it about one inch of water per week through combined rainfall and irrigation. Once the plant appears well-established, you can cut back to watering it only occasionally, as it prefers dry soil. An extensive, deep taproot helps it thrive even in dry conditions. Mature plants can do well with just monthly watering in all but the driest climates. Temperature and Humidity Butterfly weed thrives in various temperature and humidity settings, growing well in zones 3 to 9. Generally, the plant emerges in late spring, hitting its peak bloom during the warmer summer months and drying on the stem throughout the autumn and winter. It handles high humidity and arid climates equally well, provided it gets adequate soil moisture. Fertilizer Butterfly weed is a low-maintenance plant that does not require any additional fertilization. Doing so can harm the plant, making it excessively leggy and reducing blooms. Types of Butterfly Weed There are several named cultivars of this plant. Most varieties, as well as the native species, are orange. But some popular varieties offer color variations: 'Hello Yellow' is a variety with bright yellow flowers. 'Gay Butterflies' has decidedly reddish flowers. 'Western Gold Mix' has golden-orange flowers and is bred primarily for the alkaline soils of the western United States. Pruning Butterfly Weed Though butterfly weed does not need much pruning throughout the year, it can be cut back to the ground ahead of winter. In late autumn, the leaves on the butterfly weed begin to yellow, and the stems dry out and turn brown. This is a sign that the plant is entering dormancy for the season. You can take a clean set of pruning shears and cut the plant to the ground, where it will stay until it reemerges in spring. Propagating Butterfly Weed Propagating butterfly weed from stem cuttings is easily achieved. Here are the basic steps: Select a healthy stem that's about half a foot long. Pinch off the leaves of the bottom half. Place the cutting in a jar of water. Wait a couple of weeks, and you will begin to see roots forming. Once the roots are a few inches long, plant the cutting in its own small pot. Allow the cutting to establish itself in the pot, keeping the soil moist while the plant grows roots. Transplant the new plant in a few weeks. How to Grow Butterfly Weed From Seed Typically, the easiest and most successful way to add butterfly weed to your garden is to grow it from seed. Plant fresh seeds in the fall for growth the following spring, or allow any established butterfly weeds already in your garden to do the work for you. Beginning in late summer or early fall, the plants should develop seed pods at the base of the pollinated blooms. If left on the stem, the pods will eventually burst, and the seeds inside will be blown throughout your garden, allowing them to establish themselves in the soil in time for the following year. If you'd rather have more control over the eventual location of any new butterfly weed plants, you can remove the seed pods from the plant before they burst open and simply plant new seeds by hand instead. If you want to start seed indoors, the seeds need cold stratification. Here's how to do it: Place seeds in moist seed starting mix in a container. Cover with a lid and leave in the refrigerator for two months. Remove from the refrigerator eight weeks before the last expected frost, and place in a warm spot under grow lights. Do not let seeds dry out. Once the seedlings have two sets of true leaves, pot them in potting soil and continue to grow inside. As temperatures warm outside and all danger of frost has passed, harden off seedlings for a week, then transplant them in the garden. Potting and Repotting Butterfly Weed Butterfly weed doesn't usually fare well with transplantation as an older plant because of its long, knobby taproot. But you can reliably grow butterfly weed from seed in potting containers. Butterfly weed will grow easily in a 10 to 12-inch deep pot with ample drainage holes. It does not need repotting or its soil refreshed. It thrives in poor soil, returning each year in the spring after emerging from dormancy. Overwintering Overwintering butterfly weed is a simple matter of cutting off the plant stem near ground level as soon as the plant succumbs to cold temperatures in the fall or early winter. There is no harm in leaving the plant stalks in place, though this encourages rampant self-seeding, which is usually not desired. Don't mulch over the root crowns, as this can promote rot. Common Pests and Plant Diseases In most circumstances, butterfly weed is largely trouble-free, but it can be susceptible to root rot if planted in dense soil with too much moisture. It can also be vulnerable to fungal diseases such as rust and other leaf spots, though these are usually merely cosmetic and not fatal.1 The plant can be susceptible to aphid damage, which usually is controlled by lady beetles and other predator insects.1 The plant hosts many butterflies, including monarchs, so expect the leaves to be eaten. Do not use pesticides on milkweed. How to Get Butterfly Weed to Bloom Bloom Months Butterfly weed blooms from June to August. How Long Does Butterfly Weed Bloom? The butterfly weed blooms are long-lasting and make a good cut flower. They also dry well. What Do Butterfly Weed Flowers Look and Smell Like? Small, star-shaped flowers in bright orange appear in a large, flat, or dome-shaped cluster atop hairy stems. The flowers have a mildly sweet, candy-like fragrance How to Encourage More Blooms Butterfly weed is not difficult to cultivate and should bloom freely once mature (which can take up to three years). If you're struggling to get your butterfly weed to bloom, a few factors could be at play. It's essential to get the plant's watering cadence right. It should be watered regularly until new growth starts to appear (including leaves and stems, not just blooms), at which point you can decrease watering frequency. Additionally, butterfly weed plants should not be fertilized. While fertilizer may work to make other plants bloom, it can harm butterfly weed and discourage blooming. If the plant is not receiving adequate sunlight, it may not bloom; consider moving it to a new location. Common Problems With Butterfly Weed Other than the root rot that can appear in dense, wet soils, there are only a few common problems with butterfly weed. Self-Seeding The most common issue with butterfly weed is rampant self-seeding if the seed pods aren't removed before they burst and scatter their seeds. This can be prevented by removing the seed pods before they dry and burst open. The volunteer plants that appear due to self-seeding should be removed before they establish long tap roots. Rabbit Damage Butterfly weed is very attractive to feeding rabbits. Rodent-repellant granules or sprays can provide some prevention, but metal fencing around the plants is the best solution.

Blueberry plants are fairly simple to grow, making them a great choice for both inexperienced and avid gardeners. However, to produce the biggest and juiciest blueberries, fertilizing with the right products at the right time is crucial. Experts recommend fertilizing blueberry plants in early spring, and sometimes again in early summer and early fall, with an acidic, slow-release fertilizer. The appropriate fertilizer for blueberry plants will supply essential nutrients like nitrogen and maintain the correct soil pH. Conditions for Growing Blueberries Blueberry plants are relatively easy to grow in pots or directly in the ground and are fairly tolerant of both hot and cold weather. Nevertheless, blueberries do best in areas that are protected from high winds and receive six to eight hours of full sun. Your soil should be acidic, well-draining, and rich in organic matter, with a pH of 4.0 to 5.5. When to Fertilize Blueberry Plants To help your blueberries access the right amount of nutrients at the right times, you should fertilize at least once a season and up to three times, based on the soil pH and plant's health. While the exact timing is flexible, experts suggest fertilizing blueberries before the plants begin producing foliage or at the first signs of foliage (generally in the early spring). Always check your the recommended application rates and timing for your specific fertilizer before adding it to your blueberry plants. Some gardeners also fertilize blueberries in early summer, roughly six weeks later, as well as early fall, roughly one month before the first frost. However, the amount of fertilizer your blueberries require, ultimately depends on two factors: the soil pH and available nitrogen. If you notice pale leaves or minimal growth on your blueberry plants, test the soil pH to see if it's time to fertilize. How to Fertilize Blueberries You can choose a water-soluble fertilizer for your blueberry plants, but many avid gardeners recommend an acidic, slow-release fertilizer, which comes in the form of small granules. Their solid composition allows for a gradual application of nutrients over time, which helps promote the long-term health of your blueberry plants. Sprinkle your fertilizer granules evenly around the base of the plant and outward, as far away from the plant's main stem as its branches and leaves. Blueberry plants have fairly shallow roots, so there's no need to rake or turn over the soil after applying your fertilizer. In fact, you should avoid disturbing the soil, since doing so could inadvertently damage the plant's roots. Once you've applied the fertilizer, some gardeners like to add a thin layer (no more than two inches) of mulch to help insulate the plant's roots. If you choose to apply a layer of mulch, we recommend a simple option like wood chips or even dried, shredded leaves. The Best Fertilizers for Blueberries The best fertilizer for your blueberry plants should accomplish two primary goals: add nitrogen and acidify the soil. As is the case with many fruit plants, nitrogen is essential to help blueberries grow plump and juicy. Nitrogen helps every part of a blueberry plant thrive, from the depth of the roots to the color of the leaves. An ammonium sulfate or elemental sulfur fertilizer can both provide nitrogen gradually and maintain a healthy soil pH. If you'd like to solely apply nutrients, purchase an organic granular fruit fertilizer to feed your plant. Blueberry plants will generally thrive with any fertilizer designed for acid-loving plants like azaleas and rhododendrons. Be sure to test your soil pH before adding fertilizer to assess the nutrients already present in your garden and determine which is the appropriate fertilizer for your plants.