Gerbera daisy is native to South Africa and part of the Aster family. The varieties that you'll find at nurseries and in seed catalogs today are hybrids bred for their vividly colored flowers. Gerbera daisies are divided into four classes: single flower, semi-double flower, double flower, and spider flower. In warm climates, Gerbera daisies are grown as tender perennials that come back every year. In areas with cold winters, they are treated as annuals and planted in garden beds or containers after all danger of frost has passed in the spring. If you live in a climate where winters are cold and snowy, it is best to buy nursery-grown starter plants. Gerbera daisies establish themselves at a moderate pace, delivering their first flowers within 14 to 18 weeks and continuing to bloom throughout the summer. Gerbera Daisy Care Here are the main care requirements for growing a Gerbera daisy: Select a location that receives full sun to partial shade in the hot afternoon hours. Plant Gerbera daisies in soil that is rich in organic matter and slightly acidic. The crown of the plant should be about 1/2 inch above the soil line. Water newly planted Gerbera daisies regularly, and established plants about 1 inch of water per week. Feed them monthly during the spring and summer with a water-soluble fertilizer. To keep Gerbera daisies blooming and showy, deadhead spent blooms. Light Gerbera daisies thrive best under full sun but do not like intense heat. If you live in a particularly hot climate, try to plant your Gerbera daisies in a location with afternoon shade. Avoid planting flowers near a structure that reflects heat onto the plant, such as a foundation or stone wall. Soil Start your Gerbera daisy bed with rich soil high in organic matter and well-draining, ideally with a soil pH between 5.5 and 6.5—levels higher than this cause chlorosis, which manifests with yellow stripes on the leaves. Additionally, black spots or patches appear on the leaves if the pH level is too low. Water Water Gerbera daisies around 1 inch per week, when the soil has dried an inch or two below the surface. During hot and dry spells or when getting established, water more frequently. Only water Gerbera daisies lightly in the winter, since they are dormant during the cold months. Temperature and Humidity Gerbera daisies grow best in USDA hardiness zones 8 through 10, though they will need winter protection in zone 8. In cooler climates, gardeners grow Gerbera daisies as annuals. The flowers prefer a cool (but not cold) winter temperature of about 45°F to 50°F. Gerbera daisy plants have no special humidity needs. Fertilizer The amount of fertilizer your Gerbera daisies need depends on the quality of your soil. During the spring and summer, fertilize the plants every two weeks with a water-soluble fertilizer that is high in phosphorus and low in nitrogen. Alternatively, spread compost around the plants monthly. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Types of Gerbera Daisies ‘Terracotta’: Double-type Gerbera daisy flower with double yellow petals and a hint of peach surrounding its dark red eye ‘Winter Queen’: Crested double Gerbera daisy with white petals and a black central disk or eye ‘Giant Spinner’: Full-crested double Gerbera daisy flower with two rows of outer petals and two rows of inner petals; the first row of inner petals surrounds and covers the disk at the center Pruning Gerbera Daisies As Gerbera daisies wilt or fade and petals are about to fall off the flower head, deadhead or prune the flower stems to the leaves where they emerge. Deadheading extends the blooming period. Trim the dying bud off of Gerbera daisies before they go to seed. Pinch or trim off shabby or older fading leaves to encourage new leaf growth. Propagating Gerbera Daisies Gerbera daisies can be propagated from cuttings, divisions, or seeds. Propagation from cuttings and division are best done in the spring or summer during the most active growth period of the plant. Dividing mature plants helps to keep them vigorous, maintains air circulation around the plant, and promotes flowering. To propagate from cuttings: In the summer when there is plenty of new growth on the plant, take cuttings from the base or the side shoots. Have a new pot, fresh potting soil, and rooting hormone (optional) ready. Dip the cut end of the cutting in rooting hormone to help the cutting develop a root system faster. Plant the cutting in a pot filled with fresh, moist potting soil. Keep it out of direct sunlight and water the cutting when the soil surface feels dry to the touch. Once you see new growth and the cutting has rooted (gently wiggle the stem to test), move the pot to a location with full to partial sun. Keep it watered. Wait until the cutting has grown into a vigorous little plant before transplanting it into the landscape or a bigger container. To divide plants: In the early spring, just as the new growth starts, dig out the entire plant with all of its roots using a shovel or a spade. Have a sharp knife, a new pot or pots, and fresh potting soil (optional) ready. Cut through the roots with the knife or spade, separating the root ball into two or more parts depending on its size. Replant each part at the same depth as the original plant, or in new pots with fresh potting soil. Water each division thoroughly and keep it watered until it is established. How to Grow Gerbera Daisies From Seed Although most Gerbera daisy varieties are easily grown from seed, they are relatively slow to develop, which narrows the window of their single-season growth period, unless you start the seeds indoors in late winter or early spring. Starting Gerbera daisies from seed outdoors is feasible only in warmer climates where they won’t succumb to the first fall frosts. To grow Gerbera daisies from seed, start the seeds indoors approximately 12 to 18 weeks before the average last frost date in your region. Sow seeds in peat or paper pots, since Gerbera daisies do not like having their roots disturbed by transplanting Press the seeds gently onto the top of your soil mixture. Do not bury them—they need light to germinate. Cover your pots with plastic wrap or a lid to help keep the soil and the exposed seeds moist. Place the seeds in a warm, sunny spot (a temperature range of 70°F to 75°F is best) and wait approximately 2 to 4 weeks for germination. Transplant your seedlings outdoors after all danger of frost has passed and harden them off before planting. Potting and Repotting Gerbera Daisies Gerberas should be repotted yearly or every two years in the spring before new growth begins, especially once roots crowd the pot. Select a pot one size larger than the current one with at least one large drainage hole. Remove the Gerbera daisy by turning the current pot over in your hand, supporting the root ball. Brush away excess soil, snip browned or diseased roots, and place the root ball atop of bed of about 3 inches of new soil and fill around the sides. The root ball should sit about 1 inch beneath the rim of the new pot. Water until water comes out of the drainage holes. Overwintering If you are gardening in USDA zone 8 to 10, cut Gerbera plants back to about 1 inch above soil level before the first expected frost. The plants survive the winter outdoors if protected with mulch up to a depth of 3 to 4 inches. In zones 6 or cooler, dig up your Gerberas after pruning, pot them, and move them to a brightly lit, cool room between 45°F and 60°F for the winter. Common Pests and Diseases Gerbera daisies are easy to grow outdoors but susceptible to some pests and fungal diseases. Common Pests Aphids, whiteflies, spider mites, and thrips all feast on Gerbera daisy leaves. They're attracted to stressed plants, so keep your plants in good health and monitor them regularly for signs of trouble. Small populations are easily blasted off with a strong spray of water. To control larger populations, use insecticidal soap or natural horticultural oils like neem.1 Leafminers may also infest the leaves which will show the telltale sign of tunneling. Remove any damaged leaves. Common Diseases Powdery Mildew: While unsightly, powdery mildew is mostly an appearance issue and rarely fatal to the plants. It does stress the plant, and severe or repetitive infections weaken it and make it prone to other diseases and insect damage. Use pruners to remove the portions of your plants that have visible powdery mildew on them. If the entire plant is affected, be assured that it will subside as the season changes. Crown or Root Rot: The fungal culprit for crown or root is Phytophthora cryptogea, which causes stunted growth, affects flower production, and leads to leaf and stem wilt. The plant root appears rotted, brown, or black. If left untreated, the entire plant will die. Crown or and root rot often affects the plants when their soil is wet. Make sure not to overwater and allow the soil to dry out between waterings. However, do not leave the plant unwatered for so long that they wilt and become drought-stressed. Botrytis Blight: The fungal spores of Botrytis cinerea cause a velvety coating over infected flowers and leaf tissue. Other signs of gray mold are pock marks or brown spots on the leaf stalk and tan spots on flower petals. To prevent it, ensure good circulation around the plant during high humidity periods and water the soil, not the flowers and leaves. To treat it, remove all infected parts of the plant. Apply a fungicide formulated to treat botrytis. How to Get Gerbera Daisies to Bloom Bloom Months Gerbera daisy blooms most prolifically during the spring months and again in the fall. But the plant may bloom intermittently throughout the growing season. What Does Gerbera Daisy Look and Smell Like? A circle of ray petals in orange, red, yellow and cream hues surround a darker center disk. Flowers may be 3 to 6 inches wide. Gerbera daisy has no scent. How Do I Encourage More Blooms? Gerbera daisies generally bloom for several weeks and will flower longer with these tips: If the foliage is getting excessively bushy, remove some of the clustered center leaves to let more light in. Summer heat will often end Gerbera blooms early; consider moving them indoors in hot weather to sustain the flowers longer. Fertilize the plants every two weeks with a high-phosphorus, bloom-boosting fertilizer. Deadheading Gerbera Daisy Deadheading, or removing the spent blooms, will keep the plant looking neat and encourage further flowering. Common Problems With Gerbera Daisy Iron Deficiency Leaf yellowing on lower leaves or the yellowing of plant tissue between the green veins is usually caused by iron deficiency, which may also affect flower production. The deficiency is either caused by insufficient iron in the soil or fertilizer or by a soil pH exceeding 6.2. Other factors that impede nutrient absorption are temperatures below 68°F, soggy soil, and rotten or damaged roots, Check temperatures, soil moisture, pH levels, and root health to determine the cause. If needed lower the soil pH or add iron chelates to the soil. Avoiding overwatering. Wilting Plant Overwatering or under-watering a Gerbera daisy can cause it to wilt. Excessive heat may also be the culprit; water deeply and, if necessary, move the plant out of direct sunlight during midafternoon hours.

Rambutan, also known as hairy lychee, is a tropical broadleaf evergreen tree known for its juicy, flavorful fruit. Native to Southeast Asia, rambutan requires moist, well-drained soil, year-round fertilizer, and very warm, sunny conditions. Like longan and lychee trees, rambutans are members of the soapberry family. The fruits have a hairy-looking outer shell containing sweet, floral-tasting flesh that surrounds a large, inedible seed. Here's everything you need to know to grow rambutan plant. How to Plant Rambutan When to Plant Plant rambutan seedlings outdoors in spring once night temperatures are consistently above 60 degrees. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Selecting a Planting Site Choose a site with full sun conditions and loamy, well-drained soil. If possible, select a site that is protected from harsh, drying winds. Spacing, Depth, and Support Ensure that there's a clear space of at least 15 feet around the planting site for the tree to spread as it matures. Dig a hole that's at least twice as wide and the same depth as your rambutan plant's root ball. Remove the plant from its pot and place it in the hole. Fill in the hole so that the soil level hits the same spot as it did in the container. Additional support usually isn't necessary. Rambutan Plant Care Light Plant rambutan in a spot that gets full sun—at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight per day. A site with partial sun for at least 12 hours per day could also work. Be sure to gradually acclimate seedlings or saplings that have been cultivated indoors over a few weeks before planting them outdoors in full or partial sun. Soil Rambutan plants prefer rich, loamy, well-drained soil with a slightly acidic pH (5.5 to 6.5). Avoid planting in areas with heavy clay soils that will retain excess moisture. If you're growing a rambutan plant in a container, use a high-quality potting mix amended with perlite or coarse sand for drainage. Water Water rambutan plants regularly so that the soil remains consistently moist but not soggy. Unlike some other fruit trees, rambutans are shallow-rooted and can experience leaf drop after only a few days without water. However, two to four weeks of water stress can help induce flowering. Add a few inches of organic mulch such as wood chips around the base of the tree to the drip line to help retain soil moisture. Leave 3 to 5 inches of space between the mulch and the stem or trunk of the tree. Avoid letting rambutan plants in containers dry out. Check soil moisture and water when the soil begins to feel dry to the touch. Temperature and Humidity Rambutan plants thrive in temperatures between 70°F and 95°F during the day, though they can withstand temperatures around ten degrees cooler and hotter than that range. Temperatures below 50°F can damage young growth, and conditions below 40°F can cause leaf drop. High humidity of around 75 percent is ideal. Fertilizer Rambutans are heavy feeders, meaning they require regular fertilizing throughout the year to bloom and bear fruit. Feed plants with a balanced liquid plant fertilizer year-round. Rambutan's fertilizer needs will vary as the plant blooms and produces fruit. In winter, change to a 15-30-15 fertilizer to promote blooming, then a 20-10-30 fertilizer to help with fruit set after the plant flowers. After harvesting, return to balanced fertilizer. Pollination Rambutans are naturally dioecious, meaning that a female tree they must be pollinated by a male tree to bear fruit. However, many cultivars are self-pollinating and don't require a second tree to fruit. Types of Rambutan The two main types of rambutan are red and yellow, which is typically how rambutan plants are categorized in the U.S. However, dozens of different cultivars are available in the plant's native range of Southeast Asia, including: Nephelium lappaceum 'Binjai': This high-yielding red rambutan cultivar with firm fruit is the most widely grown in Indonesia. Nephelium lappaceum 'Rongrien': This oval-shaped variety is native to Thailand and turns red with green tips on its hairs at maturity. Nephelium lappaceum 'E35': This compact yellow rambutan cultivar has very sweet fruits that are particularly juicy. Nephelium lappaceum 'School Boy': Deep red shells with green hairs conceal small, sweet fruits that grow profusely on this rambutan cultivar. Harvesting Rambutan Rambutan plants grown from seed can bear fruit in five or six years, though grafted or budded trees can fruit in as little as two years. In tropical climates, trees may bear fruit twice—once in late fall or early winter and again in late spring or early summer. Expect fruits to ripen between 12 and 16 weeks after flowers bloom. When they're ready to harvest, fruits will be completely red or yellow and at peak sweetness. Fruits won't ripen off the tree, so it's best to wait until they are fully ripe to pick. Mature trees can bear several thousand fruits in each harvest. Pruning There's no need to prune rambutan plants regularly, but it's a good idea to remove dead or damaged branches as you see them. Pruning after fruiting can help encourage new growth and keep the tree a manageable size. Propagating Rambutan Rambutan plants can be propagated by sophisticated techniques like grafting and budding, but air layering is easier and simpler for the home gardener. Rambutan plants respond well to air layering, which involves rooting a branch or section of stem while it's still on the mother plant. The best time to propagate rambutan is in spring or summer. Before you begin, you'll need a healthy mother plant, a sterilized blade, sphagnum moss, clear plastic, aluminum foil, and string or twist ties. Here's how to propagate rambutan. Soak a few handfuls of sphagnum moss in water until it's well saturated. Remove the moss and squeeze it to remove excess moisture. Identify a vertical branch on the mother plant that gets plenty of sun. Use a sharp blade to remove a 1 to 2-inch area of bark all the way around the branch. Wrap the damp moss around the exposed area of branch, then wrap a piece of clear plastic around the moss so that no moss is exposed to the air. Use string or twist ties to fasten the plastic around the moss and branch. Wrap the foil around the plastic to shield the moss from direct sunlight. After about 12 weeks, the branch will have grown roots into the damp sphagnum moss. Cut the branch below the root ball and plant it in a container. How to Grow Rambutan From Seed It's possible to grow rambutan plants from seed—including seeds you've saved yourself from a ripe rambutan fruit. The fresher the seeds are, the better your chance of germination. Carefully remove the flesh from around the seed, avoiding cutting or bruising the seed in the process. Rinse the seed to remove any residue from the flesh, then soak it in room-temperature water overnight. Plant the seed in a small container of fresh potting mix one inch deep with the flat part of the seed pointing down. Water the soil and keep it consistently moist. Keep the pot in a bright, very warm place, or use a heat mat to warm the soil. The rambutan seed should germinate within two weeks of planting. After the seed sprouts, put it outdoors in a place that gets full, direct sunlight. If keeping the seedling indoors, use grow lights to provide adequate light. Overwintering If you're keeping a rambutan plant in a container outdoors, you'll want to begin the process of bringing it inside a few weeks before night temperatures drop below 60 °F. Gradually acclimate the plant to shadier conditions over two weeks or so. When you're ready to bring it in for good, follow steps for bringing plants indoors for the winter, such as soaking the root ball to drive out insects and inspecting foliage for pests or damaged leaves. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Common pests such as fruit flies, moths, fruit borers, and fruit webbers can affect rambutan plants. In tropical regions, birds may also eat green or ripe fruits. While rambutan plants aren't susceptible to many plant diseases, they may be affected by fungal issues like powdery mildew.

Yellowing green bean leaves are not always cause for concern—they can sometimes be a natural sign of aging in bean plants. But if you see leaves on green beans turning yellow mid-season, or if your plants are becoming less productive, it could be due to fungal, bacterial, or environmental stressors. Here are 6 common reasons why bean leaves turn yellow, plus simple, organic solutions to help your plants recover. Watering Stress Underwatering and overwatering can cause yellowing bean leaves, making it difficult to know exactly what’s going on with your plants. The best way to determine if your plants receive too much or too little water is to insert your finger into the soil. If the soil feels soggy and you haven’t watered recently, your plants are likely overwatered and root rot may be settling in. How to Fix Beans should receive about 1 inch of water per week. If you often forget to water, apply a layer of mulch around the base of your plants to keep the soil from drying out too quickly, and consider installing an automated drip irrigation system. If your plants are overwatered, adjust your watering schedule, scrape the mulch away from around your plant, and allow the soil to dry out before watering again. Lighting Issues Beans need at least 8 hours of direct light daily to grow. In low-light conditions, beans may develop yellowing leaves, but too much bright light can cause yellowing leaves, too. How to Fix Beans are difficult to transplant once established, but you can avoid lighting stress by choosing a growing spot that receives 8 to 10 hours of daily light. Nutrient Deficiencies Although beans fix nitrogen, they can still suffer from nutritional deficiencies in poor soil. Nutrient deficiencies produce different symptoms depending on what nutrients are missing; however, most deficiencies result in stunted plant growth and yellowing leaves with visible, green veins. How to Fix Testing your soil every few years and adding an annual application of compost is the best way to avoid plant nutrient deficiencies. You may also want to fertilize beans with an all-purpose fertilizer, adjust the pH of alkaline soils, and apply a legume inoculant to bean seeds before planting. Inoculants boost nitrogen fixation and make it easier for beans to absorb nutrients. Plant Diseases Diseases caused by bacteria, fungi, and viruses can produce yellowing bean leaves and other symptoms. Bacterial blight usually produces brown leaf spots with yellow halos. Bean mosaic virus may develop cupped or puckered leaves with a mottled yellow mosaic pattern. Fungal issues, like white mold and bean rust, may also produce leaf spots and yellow lesions, especially in overcrowded gardens. How to Fix Purchasing disease-resistant seeds from reliable seed companies can keep some plant diseases out of your garden. However, you can also reduce diseases by rotating crops, watering beans at the soil line, weeding regularly, following proper spacing guidelines, and destroying infested plant material at the end of the season. Pests While pests can cause yellowing leaves through the spread of plant diseases, sap-sucking pests may also directly cause yellowing leaves by feeding on plant sap. Pest damage typically presents as tiny dots or speckles on affected leaves, but pests may also skeletonize or chew holes in bean leaves. How to Fix Aphids, thrips, bean beetles, and spider mites are some of the most common bean pests, but these pests can be controlled with handpicking, organic soap sprays, and companion planting. Strongly scented herbs and flowers, like marigolds and nasturtiums, are especially good companion plants for natural pest control. Natural Processes While pests, diseases, and environmental stresses can cause bean leaves to yellow, aging bean plants may also develop yellowing leaves at the end of the growing season. Yellowing leaves caused by natural aging usually occur towards the base of the plant, and leaf yellowing may be exacerbated by cool temperatures. How to Fix Yellowing leaves that occur late in the growing season are a part of the natural aging process of bean plants and they signal that bean plants are reaching the end of their life. There is no need to address yellowing leaves caused by natural aging; however, you may be able to extend your bean growing season a little longer by installing season extension products, like row covers. 3 Additional Tips to Grow Great Green Beans If you want your bean plants to be even more productive, try out these quick and easy bean care tips! Trellising. Bush-type beans don’t need trellises, but pole and vining beans grow better with support. Cattle panel trellises are one of the best solutions if you want to grow lots of beans together, but you can also make DIY bean supports with bamboo poles or upcycled tomato cages. Spacing. To avoid fungal issues and other plant diseases, space bean plants at least 6 inches apart in rows that are at least 18 to 24 inches from each other. Harvesting. Regularly harvesting beans will make plants more productive, but don’t tug on bean pods when you harvest. Instead, pinch or cut bean pods off the plant so you don’t accidentally damage tender stems.