The bleeding heart flower (Lamprocapnos spectabilis) gets its name from its puffy, heart shaped pink blossoms that bloom in the spring. Beneath each heart shape sticks out a white petal with a red streak. The long, arching stems give the plant a cascading effect. This plant, which is native to Asia, can reach up to three feet in maturity. In a typical growing season, it will produce around 20 small flowers on its stems and stay in bloom for several weeks throughout the spring. These are perennial plants, which means even if the bleeding heart itself disappears, it will bloom again the next year in either fall or spring. Bleeding heart plants are in the same family as poppies and are toxic to people and pets. Bleeding Heart Care Here are the basic care requirements for growing a bleeding heart: Plant bleeding heart in a shady, protected area Place roots down in the ground with the crown just below the soil Use rich, organic moist, well-draining soil Keep the soil moist but not soggy Fertilize bleeding heart plants only if your soil is poor Planting Plant a bleeding heart in partial shade and rich, well-draining soil. Plant the bleeding heart's bare roots so the crown is about 1 to 2 inches below the soil. If it's planted too deeply, the crown may rot. Protect these delicate flowers from strong winds by placing a bleeding heart in an area with a windbreak and some sun protection. A woodland garden is ideal for a bleeding heart plant. Light Bleeding heart does best in partial shade, but it can also handle full shade. Note that direct sun can cause the plant to go dormant early and cut its blooming period short. Soil Bleeding heart prefers humus-rich, moist, well-draining soil with lots of organic matter. A slightly acidic to neutral soil pH is best. Before planting, it's ideal to work a few inches of compost into the soil, especially if you don't have organically rich soil. Water Bleeding heart plants like lightly moist soil. It doesn't tolerate soggy or dry soils very well. Water throughout the growing season when the top inch of soil has dried out, even during summer dormancy to keep the roots hydrated. But make sure the soil doesn't stay waterlogged, which can lead to root rot. Temperature and Humidity Bleeding hearts' ideal temperature is between 55-75º, and it has a tolerance for high humidity. As the summer heat strengthens, you'll likely see the foliage yellowing; this is a perfectly normal sign of the plant going dormant to store its energy. Fertilizer Bleeding heart plants are not heavy feeders, so when to fertilize depends on the quality of your soil. If you have rich, organic soil that is amended every year, you likely won't have to feed at all. If you have poor soil, you can apply an all-purpose, slow-release fertilizer in the spring. Also, as a woodland plant, the bleeding heart does well with a top dressing of leaf mold. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Types of Bleeding Heart Bleeding heart bush (Lamprocapnos spectabilis), or common bleeding heart, differs in its looks, growing conditions, and hardiness from the bleeding heart vine (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), also known as the glory bower plant. When planting common bleeding heart, look for several varieties with similar growing characteristics, including: Lamprocapnos spectabilis 'Alba': This cultivar produces pure white heart-shaped flowers. Lamprocapnos spectabilis 'Gold Heart': This cultivar produces pink flowers and yellow-gold foliage but grows slightly smaller (up to 2 feet tall) than the classic bleeding heart plant. Lamprocapnos spectabilis 'Valentine': An eye-popping cultivar, this plant blooms bright cherry-red flowers with white tips and burgundy stems. Dicentra spectabilis ''White Gold': This elegant plant blooms with bright white flowers and chartreuse foliage. Dicentra spectabilis 'Ruby Gold': This unique variety features golden foliage with ruby red blooms. Pruning No major pruning is required, though you can trim back the foliage as it becomes brown and unsightly before dormancy. Refrain from deadheading (removing the spent blooms) if you want the flowers to go to seed. Propagating Bleeding Heart Bleeding heart is usually planted from nursery seedlings, but you can propagate bleeding heart from seeds, clump division, or stem cuttings. Propagation by cuttings is best done in spring to early summer. If you are starting from seeds in the garden, sow them in the fall. Here's how to propagate bleeding hearts: Propagation by Division Dig a circle around the crown of the roots and pull up the root ball. The roots grow horizontally. Do not worry when cutting through the roots. Examine the root crown; look for pink buds of growth. Cut through the root ball, leaving at least one bud per sectioned area (two to three buds per section is better). Replant the original root ball in its original spot. Plant the new section or sections in new spots or a potting mix enriched with compost or leaf mold. Water thoroughly to moisten the soil, but do not leave it too wet or soggy. Propagation by Cuttings Use sterilized pruners to take a 3- to 5-inch cutting from a healthy bleeding heart plant and take off the leaves from the bottom half of the cutting. Fill a container with potting mix and poke a hole in the center of the soil. Dip the cut end of the cutting into rooting hormone and put it into the hole. Firm the soil around the stem. Water the soil to the point that it's moist but not soggy. Put a clear plastic bag around the cutting, not touching the plant. If condensation appears on the inside of the bag, poke a hole in the plastic for some ventilation. Place the plant in indirect light. A bright windowsill will be too sunny and scorch the plant. Make sure the soil remains moist but not soggy. Once you notice new growth, the plant has successfully rooted. Remove the plastic bag. Move the bleeding heart plant outdoors once it's rooted well and new growth is more abundant. Harden off the plant in a protected spot for a few days before moving it to its permanent spot outdoors. How to Grow Bleeding Heart From Seed To start seeds indoors, place the seeds in a pot of soil. Put the pot in a plastic bag, and place it in the freezer for six to eight weeks. Remove the pot, and gradually reintroduce the plant to light and warmer conditions. The change in temperature and exposure to sunlight will allow the seeds to germinate and sprout. Bleeding hearts also tend to self-seed in the garden, though not invasively. The tiny seedlings can be carefully dug up and transplanted. Potting and Repotting Bleeding Heart Bleeding heart plants do well as container plants, and they can be grown indoors, as well, but conditions need to be right. Opt for a large container that's at least a 12-inch pot with drainage holes. Unglazed clay is best to allow excess moisture to evaporate through its walls. Use a quality, well-draining potting mix. A bleeding heart plant can live for four to five years in a large container before becoming root-bound and needing to be repotted. Either divide your plant or move up to a container that will fit its root ball with a couple of inches to spare between it and the container walls. Gently ease the plant out of its old container, and place it at the same depth in the new pot. Fill around it with potting mix, and water well. Overwintering Bleeding heart will naturally die back during the winter season. However, the roots should survive the cold weather, even if the plant appears dead above ground. As the plant depreciates before winter, you can cut the stems down to 1 or 2 inches from ground level. Keep watering the soil up until the first frost. At the start of winter, you can protect the roots and help them retain moisture by adding a 2-inch layer of mulch on top of the plant stems. Remove the mulch as the ground thaws in the spring. Common Pests & Plant Diseases When it comes to pests, bleeding heart struggles the most with aphids, scale, slugs, and snails. The easiest and least invasive treatment for aphids and scale is using an insecticidal soap or neem oil. Slugs and snails are best remedied by physically picking them off at night or in the early morning and disposing of them in a bucket of soapy water. Bleeding heart is prone to fungal diseases, including powdery mildew and leaf spot, which can be treated with a fungicide. If the plant has turned black and is foul-smelling, it's rotting and can infect other nearby plants. Pull the plant and dispose of it in a sealed bag. If it was in a container, sterilize the entire container and throw out the soil. If the diseased plant was pulled from your garden, treat the area with a fungicide. How to Get Bleeding Heart to Bloom Bleeding heart is usually a spring-blooming plant and will continue to flower into the summer until it gets too hot. Note that this plant takes some time to establish and might not flower in its first growing season. Plants that are cramped and need to be divided also might not flower or flower less than a typical bloom. To trigger the plant to flower again in the season, you can stimulate new growth by cutting the plant down to one inch above ground level. Also, ensure that the plant stays out of the direct sunlight, which can hinder blooming. Common Problems With Bleeding Heart Bleeding heart plants are not usually problematic when the growing conditions are right. Common issues stem from inadequate watering or pest and disease problems. Powdery Patches on Foliage Spots of black, gray, white, or pink powder on bleeding heart leaves indicate powdery mildew, a treatable disease when caught immediately. A fungicide will remove the problem. To prevent powdery mildew, water at the soil level (not on the foliage) and ensure the plants are not crowded and have plenty of aeration. Brown or Black Spots on the Leaves If a bleeding heart plant develops small brown or black spots on the leaves that grow larger with a yellow ring or halo with the center of the ring beginning to rot out, then the plant likely has fungal leaf spot. Treatment with a fungicide or baking soda solution can neutralize the fungus if caught early. As the disease progresses, the leaves drop and the plant will die. Yellowing Leaves A bleeding heart plant naturally turns yellow and dies back as the temperature increases. The plant is entering dormancy, which is its normal growth cycle. However, yellowing leaves can also occur if the plant is getting too much water, the soil is too alkaline, or the plant is getting too much sun. Adjust those conditions as necessary. Additionally, yellowing can also be a sign of a fungal disease emerging, such as verticillium or fusarium. A plant with this disease is not salvageable and should be destroyed before it spreads to other plants. Browning, Blackening, or Rapid Wilting of the Plant Diseases like verticillium wilt, fusarium wilt, botrytis, and root rot will cause a plant to fail quickly. Initial signs will be wilting, leading to all-over browning or the plant beginning to rot. Botrytis appears as a gray mold that overtakes the plant. If your plant is infected with these fungal issues and has begun to brown or blacken, the plant is too far gone, and fungicide will likely not help. Remove all of the soil, discard it, and sterilize the container before using it again. Seal the plant in a plastic bag before discarding it.

If you love a low-acid, sweet tomato, then Sungold is a perfect choice. A golden yellow cherry tomato, Sungold, Lycopersicon esculentum 'Sungold', is a hybrid indeterminate tomato that matures in 55 to 65 days and produces fruit in clusters throughout the growing season. You'll need stakes or cages because the vines can grow up to 10 feet.1 While the fruit is delicious, the vines and leaves are toxic to humans2 and pets3 if consumed. How to Plant Sungold Tomatoes When to Plant Sungold tomatoes should be planted in the spring after all threat of frost has passed. If you are starting plants from seed, they should be started indoors about four weeks before your area's last projected frost date and then planted outside when seedlings are at least 6-inches tall. Selecting a Planting Site Sungold tomatoes require a site with full sun and loamy, nutrient-rich soil with good drainage. If planting in a garden, practice crop rotation to prevent disease spread and nutrient depletion of the soil from last year's crops. Sungold tomatoes also thrive in containers placed in a sunny spot. Spacing, Depth, and Support Sungold tomatoes produce long vines and clusters of fruit. To control them and keep the fruit off the ground. they need a support structure for the vines, such as a tomato cage. Plants should be spaced at least four feet apart in the garden to ensure good air circulation and room for the support structure. Seedlings should be planted in a hole about twice the size of their root ball and placed into the ground at the same level as they grew in their container. If the seedling was grown in a peat pot, be sure the entire pot is buried below the soil surface because an exposed peat pot wicks moisture from the soil. Sungold Tomato Plant Care Light Sungold tomatoes need full sun for six to eight hours per day. Less light results in slower growth and less fruit. Soil Slightly acidic, 6.0-6.8 pH, soil in the garden helps Sungold tomatoes thrive and bear lots of fruit. The soil should be well-drained, loamy, and nutrient-rich. A soil test is the best way to determine the nutrient level in your soil and its pH. If growing Sungold tomatoes in containers, use organic potting soil not soil dug directly from the garden. It is too heavy for container grown plants. Water All tomatoes must be watered deeply and regularly, especially those planted in containers. Provide 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water per week. Poke your finger into the soil and if it is dry at 2 inches deep, provide water. The soil should not be allowed to dry out because keeping the soil evenly moist helps prevent blossom end rot. Water at the root level to prevent the spread of tomato diseases. Avoid overwatering which can lead to root rot and splitting tomatoes. Add mulch once plants are established to help retain moisture. Temperature and Humidity For optimum growth, do not plant Sungold tomatoes until soil temperature has reached at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Harden off seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions before planting them in the garden. Humidity isn't an issue for tomatoes unless it is excessive. Too much humid weather causes wet foliage for extended periods and creates a climate for fungal diseases. Fertilizer Unless a soil test has other recommendations, prepare garden soil by working in 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet of a complete fertilizer (10-10-10 NPK). A high-nitrogen fertilizer is not recommended; it can result in luxuriant foliage but delayed flowering and fruiting. Give new plants a head start by using a diluted liquid starter fertilizer high in phosphorus for strong root development. For container-grown Sungolds, fertilize regularly, at least once a month. Use a water-soluble application at half-strength to provide a constant source of nutrients. Pollination Sungold tomatoes self-pollinate and attract bees and other pollinators to the garden. Types of Sungold Tomatoes A similar tomato is SunSugar. The fruits are golden yellow, sweeter, and with a slightly thicker skin t less prone to cracking. Harvesting Sungold Tomatoes Although Sungold tomatoes grow in clusters of 10 to 20 fruits, it is best to harvest each cherry tomato separately. If picked while they are bright yellow, the fruit will be firm and tart. If allowed to ripen to a deep golden color, they will be soft, sweet, and easy to remove from the vine. Sungolds never turn red, no matter how long they stay on the vine. If cared for correctly, the plant will continue to produce fruit until the first frost in the fall. How to Grow Sungold Tomatoes in Pots If you don't have space for a garden, Sungold tomatoes can be easily grown in pots. Choose a large pot, around 5-gallons, with good drainage holes. Add a treellis or tomato cage while the seedlings are young to provide support for the vines. Use good potting soil and water regularly (one to two gallons of water per day) because the container will dry out quickly. Other than transferring seedlings to the garden or a large container, Sungold tomatoes should not be repotted once they are established. Pruning Sungold Tomatoes Regular pruning helps Sungold tomatoes produce more fruit than foliage. Use garden snips to remove suckers, or small stems, growing from the main stem next to a leaf cluster. These suckers tend to produce foliage but not fruit. Without them, the plant can focus energy on the fruit-bearing stems. Prune any stems touching the ground to prevent disease. Propagating Sungold Tomatoes You can clone Sungold tomatoes from cuttings. You need a small pot with soilless potting mix and good drainage and sterile pruners. Once the parent plant is healthy and actively growing follow these steps: Find a 6- to 8-inch sucker coming off the main stem with no buds or flowers on it and remove it with the pruner. Strip the leaves on the lower half of the cutting. Plant the cutting in a small container with moistened soilless potting mix. Place the container in bright, indirect sunlight. Keep the growing medium moist but not soggy. Roots should develop in a week or two. If you feel resistance when you gently tug on the cutting, you’ll know it has roots. It can then be transplanted into the garden. How to Grow Sungold Tomatoes from Seed About six weeks before the last predicted frost, start your Sungold tomato seeds indoors. You need seed starting trays and mix, heating mat, plastic dome or covering, and small pots with drainage holes. Fill trays with seed starting medium and moisten the medium until it is damp but not soaked. With a pointed stick, make a hole about 1/8th of an inch deep and place one seed in each one of the seed tray's cells. Place the tray on top of the heating mat in front of a sunny window and cover the tray. Check daily to ensure the soil remains moist, misting with a spray bottle as needed. The seeds should germinate in 5 to 10 days. Keep covered until the plants touch the cover, at which point remove the cover. When plants are around 5 to 6 inches tall, transplant them into individual pots and continue to water until transplanted. When outdoor temperatures reach a steady 50° Fahrenheit at night, you can take the plants outdoors to allow them to harden up before planting. After 10 days, you can transplant the Sungold tomato plants into the garden. Overwintering Sungold tomatoes are annuals that complete their life cycle in one growing season and do not overwinter. Harvest the last tomatoes before the first frost and discard vines. Common Pest and Plant Diseases Sungold tomatoes are resistant to Verticillium wilt (V), fusarium (F), and tobacco mosaic virus (TMV). However, they can be affected and are subject to pests like tomato hornworms. Help prevent problems by providing ample growing space, using a support structure to keep them off the ground, and watering at the roots only. Aphids are a common problem with tomatoes. While the plants can tolerate a number of them without loss, infestations can pose a larger problem. Aphids are tiny bugs that come in colors red, green, white, or black. Signs of an aphid infestation include curled and yellow leaves as well as reduced tomato production. You can control aphids with natural methods such as spraying with water and companion planting (marigolds, onion, and garlic as good choices). If these don't work, you can also opt to use insecticidal sprays.

Cinnamon basil combines the flavor of traditional basil with that of sweet cinnamon, making it a perfectly unique addition to any herb garden. This fast-growing type of basil has distinctive violet central stems with long, deep green leaves. If left unpruned, cinnamon basil turns into an attractive flowering plant with lavender-pink blooms. Cinnamon basil grows up to 3 feet tall, but it can be kept much smaller for containers and limited space. In addition to being an attractive edible ornamental, its pest-repellant properties also make it an excellent companion plant for several popular garden crops, including tomatoes. How to Plant Cinnamon Basil When to Plant Whether you plant nursery-grown basil or start your own plants from seed outdoors, you’ll need to wait until there is no further danger of frost, when temperatures are consistently above 70 degrees during the day and above 50 degrees at night. To get a head start on the growing season, start the seeds indoors about one month before your last average frost date. For a constant supply of cinnamon basil, reseed it every four to six weeks. Selecting a Planting Site Find a location with full sun most of the day and fertile, well-drained soil. Like with all garden crops, following crop rotation rules is key for healthy plants. Don’t plant basil in the same spot where you have grown basil or other members of the mint family (lavender, sage, rosemary, thyme, oregano, mint) in the past two or three years. Spacing, Depth, and Support Space the plants 8 to 12 inches apart. Cinnamon basil has a strong central stem and does not require support. However, it does not compete well with weeds. Mulching around the plant helps to suppress weeds and preserves soil moisture. Cinnamon Basil Plant Care Light Basil needs plenty of sunshine, between 8 and 12 hours of sunlight every day. Soil The soil should be moist, moderately rich, and well-draining, ranging from mildly acidic to neutral pH. If the soil is poor, amend it with organic matter before planting. Water Unlike herbs with thick leaves, basil needs moisture; it is not drought-tolerant and prone to damage under heat stress. In the absence of regular rainfall, water it deeply every week, more often during hot summer weather. Temperature and Humidity Cinnamon basil is a warm-weather plant that reaches its peak in the summer. It does not take a frost to make it unusable—in cool weather, the leaves turn black. High humidity becomes an issue if the plants are crowded and there is not sufficient airflow. Fertilizer Although basil is harvested frequently, it needs only a moderate amount of fertilizer. For plants in the garden, applying a 5-10-5 once or twice during the growing season is sufficient. For potted plants, use a liquid fertilizer, diluted to half-strength, every four to six weeks. Too much fertilizer leads to rapid plant growth and diminished foliage flavor. Cinnamon Basil vs. Thai Basil What is commonly known as Thai basil in North America is sometimes also called cinnamon basil, leading to people wondering whether they are the same thing. They are not—cinnamon basil Ocimum basilicum ‘Cinnamon’ and Thai basil (O. basilicum var. thyrsiflora) are two different basil varieties. Cinnamon basil has a distinctive cinnamon spice taste; it has a fresh, earthy aroma with no traces of anise. Thai basil, on the other hand, has a distinctive taste of black licorice or sweet anise and no hints of cinnamon. The leaves are different, too. Cinnamon basil has narrower, more delicate, more serrated, and shinier leaves than Thai basil. Companion Plants for Cinnamon Basil Cinnamon basil makes an excellent companion plant for many garden crops because it deters pests such as aphids, thrips, tomato hornworms, and different flies, such as carrot flies and whiteflies.1 And it attracts beneficial pollinating insects, including bees and butterflies. Good companions for basil include tomatoes, peppers, carrots, beets, garlic, lettuce, and asparagus. Other herbs, such as cilantro, dill, and marjoram, are equally good neighbors. When planting basil next to garden crops, take into consideration the mature size of the neighboring plant and how it affects sun exposure. For example, a basil plant that is shaded by a tall tomato plant will do poorly. Harvesting Cinnamon Basil Cinnamon basil takes about 65 days from seeding to maturity, but you can start harvesting lightly after plants have become established. Using a sharp knife or scissors, cut off individual leaves at the tip of the stems or remove the entire stem tips with one or two sets of leaves. Once the plant is full and bushy, it is also possible to harvest entire stems by cutting them just above a pair of leaves. Regular harvesting forces the plant to grow more leaves and prevents the formation of flowers. Once the plant has started blooming, the flavor becomes too strong. The best time to cut basil is in the early morning; in cooler temperatures, it is less prone to wilting. Harvesting just before use is ideal. If you need to store it, keep it in a moderately cool place above 50 degrees F. How to Grow Cinnamon Basil in Pots Cinnamon basil makes an excellent container plant. Choose a container that is at least 6 inches in diameter and has large drainage holes and fill it with well-draining potting mix. Because cinnamon basil gets quite big, and overcrowding leads to fungal problems, it is best to give the plant its own container or use a planter large enough to space the plants at least 12 inches apart. Cinnamon basil in containers need more watering than plants in garden soil. Water whenever the top inch of soil feels dry. Repotting cinnamon basil during its single-season lifespan is not necessary. Pruning Harvesting basil regularly usually takes care of the pruning in one fell swoop yet there are some things to know about pruning cinnamon basil. If you are growing cinnamon basil for culinary use, the goal is to get it to grow as many leaves as possible without flowering. Pinch off the central stem when the seedlings are about six weeks old, and be diligent to remove any flower buds as soon as you detect them. If you are growing cinnamon basil as an ornamental, for its edible flowers, or as a pollinator magnet, there is no need to prune anything else but the central stem when the plant is about 6 inches tall to encourage branching. Left alone, cinnamon basil should flower by midsummer. How to Grow Cinnamon Basil From Seed The primary propagation method for cinnamon basil is to start it from seed either indoors or outdoors. Start the seeds indoors about four to six weeks before your last average frost date. Plant the seeds ¼ inch deeps in seed starting trays or flats filled with sterile potting mix. Keep the soil evenly moist. At a temperature between 65 to 70 degrees, germination takes six to ten days. The seedlings need plenty of sunlight; if you don’t have a south- or west-facing window, place them under grow lights for at least 8 hours daily. Harden off the seedlings before transplanting them in the garden well after the last frost. Follow the same directions for direct seeding outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed to at least 70 degrees F. Keep the soil evenly moist. When the seedlings are 2 inches tall, thin them so there is 8 to 12 inches between plants. Overwintering Like all basil, cinnamon basil is sensitive to temperatures below 50 degrees F. Most gardeners don’t bother protecting the plant from the cold because by the end of the summer or early fall, the plant has exhausted its energy reserves. If your plant still looks vigorous and healthy when temperatures drop, you can try to extend its lifespan. Dig it up, plant it in a pot, and bring it indoors. Place it near a south- or west-facing window or under grow lights for at least 10 hours daily while keeping it evenly moist. You might get a few more weeks out of it but even with the best care, the plant won’t last over the winter. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Basil is mostly unbothered by serious pests and diseases, but it can get fusarium wilt, gray mold, bacterial wilt, bacterial leaf spot, and downy mildew. In wet conditions, root rot may occur. The most common pests of basil are aphids, Japanese beetles, and slugs. The application of insecticidal soap helps to control soft-bodied insects. Japanese beetles are best hand-picked and tossed in soapy water. Diatomaceous earth is effective against slugs, but it must be reapplied after a rainfall.