Rhubarb is a cool-season garden vegetable that, once established, can produce a crop for up to 15 years, making it a particularly fruitful addition to any garden. Growing rhubarb from crowns is the fastest way to get new plants, but you can grow rhubarb from seeds, too; it will be several years before you can harvest the stalks. Here's how to grow rhubarb from seeds. Can You Grow Rhubarb From Seed? Yes, you can grow rhubarb from seed. The faster way to get rhubarb plants is to grow them from crowns, which can give you a harvest that same year. However, it's easy and cost-effective to start rhubarb plants with seed, you'll just have to wait three years to harvest. Rhubarb is hardy in USDA hardiness zones 3 to 8 and, starting with seeds, is grown either as a perennial or short-lived perennial in zones 1 to 8. Seeds started in zone 9 are grown as an annual crop with a single harvest from March to May. In hardiness zones with long, hot growing seasons, rhubarb is usually grown as an annual by planting new crowns every year. How to Grow Rhubarb From Seed In the right conditions, rhubarb germinates in 7 to 14 days. Seeds should be directly sown or started in pots in early spring in cooler zones, and in late summer or early autumn in warmer zones, depending on climate. How to Plant Rhubarb Seeds Seeds started indoors germinate best between 68°F and 74°F. For direct sowing into the garden, wait until soil temperatures reach between 60°F and 70°F. Soak seeds in warm water for several hours before planting. In the garden, choose a spot that receives six hours of sun exposure daily. Rhubarb needs well-draining soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. In southern climates, provide afternoon shade. Work a good amount of aged compost into the planting bed. Sow seeds 1/2 inch deep and three feet apart in rows five feet apart. Cover with soil and water thoroughly. To germinate in flats use a 50-50 mix of compost and potting soil. Plant one or two seeds per cell, 1/2 inch deep, cover, and water thoroughly. Place flats in a warm location that receives plenty of indirect light. To grow rhubarb in pots, you'll need 10-gallon containers. Plants grow to four feet tall, requiring lots of space. Choose a container with plenty of drainage holes. Use a 50-50 mix of aged compost and potting soil, plant seeds 1/2 inch deep, and water thoroughly. Rhubarb Seedling Care Water the seedlings when the soil gets dry on top. Soggy soil causes dampening off. Harden off for a week to 10 days by gradually exposing flat-grown seedlings to outdoor temperatures and more sunlight before transplanting into the garden. In zones with short growing seasons, try solarizing to raise soil temperature. In hotter climates add a layer of mulch to keep soil cool. Do not fertilize the first year. Compacted soil can be amended with manure or aged compost in subsequent years. Remove flowering stalks throughout the growing season and brown and dried out foliage at the end of the growing season. Harvest Rhubarb Annual rhubarb grown from seed is harvested between March and May. Stalks are usually smaller and seldom develop the pink to red hues of perennial rhubarb. Perennial rhubarb is harvested in May, June, and early July from 3-year-old crowns when stalks reach between 7 and 14 inches tall. Harvest by pulling and twisting the stalk off at the base. Do not cut rhubarb which can damage the crown. Remove leaves which are toxic.1 When to Plant Rhubarb Seeds by Zone When and how to start rhubarb from seeds depends, not just on growing zone, but on frost dates, elevation, microclimate, and other growing conditions. Ideal conditions for growing rhubarb include 500 hours of winter temperatures between 28°F and 40°F. Plants break dormancy above 40°F and begin to die back once temperatures reach 75°F.2 Consider these planting dates a general rule of thumb. USDA zones 1 to 3: Start seeds indoors in flats or pots eight to 10 weeks before final frost, which occurs from early April to May. Transplant when soil temperature reaches 60°F. USDA zone 4: Direct sow two weeks before final frost, from late April to early May, or start seeds in flats eight to 10 weeks before final frost. USDA Zone 5 to 6: Direct sow in the ground two weeks before the final frost in April, or start seeds in flats eight to 10 weeks before the final frost. USDA zone 7: Plant seeds in flats from January to February or directly sow in September and October. May grow as annual or perennial depending on climate. USDA zone 8: Plant seeds in flats from December to January or directly sow in September and October. May grow as annual or perennial depending on climate. USDA zone 9: Plant seeds in flats or direct sow from August to September for transplant into the garden in December. One annual harvest from March to May.

Most Japanese maples are easy to grow once they become established and are trained to grow properly. One of the best ways to keep a Japanese maple healthy is through pruning. Some Japanese maples can be pricey, and people often have a plant-it-and-forget-it attitude with trees, but this is an essential care task you shouldn't skip. Here's our best guidance on when and how to prune Japanese maples with instructions so easy even a beginner can do it. Why Prune Japanese Maples Japanese maples should be pruned for health and aesthetics (i.e., its shape). Remove any dead, dying or broken branches, then prune for aesthetics with what's left. Prune it to establish its shape or to maintain a shape. Make no mistakes; every form of Japanese maple, whether weeping or upright, must be pruned to keep its visual appeal. If you feel tempted to skip pruning a Japanese maple for health, remember that you can't have a good looking tree if it isn't healthy. When to Prune Japanese Maples Like most trees, Japanese maples should be pruned when the tree is completely dormant. Usually this occurs anytime between the first frost and late winter. However, Japanese maples take extremely well to pruning and can be pruned throughout the year, if needed. Plan to prune the Japanese maple as a part of an annual health inspection you do when it's dormant in the winter. Make sure to assess it again after it leafs out (i.e., the buds open). At that point, examine its form and see if there are any dissimilar leaves. Look at the overall shape of the tree to see if you like it. Unless you pruned too much, your tree should have not suffered any negative effects. Tips for Pruning a Japanese Maple It is hard to believe, but pruning a Japanese maple is easy. You know what we want it to look like and what does not belong on a tree (broken, dying, or dead branches), and that is the most important thing. You always want to start by cleaning your tools with a solution of 90% alcohol or higher or a solution of bleach and water. Cleaning your tools sanitizes them and reduces the risk of spreading pathogens between tools and plants. Follow these guidelines for pruning a Japanese maple: Always prune away any lower branches that look different or have dissimilar leaves from the top of the tree. Remove the BDD (broken, dying, or dead) branches. Stake young trees to ensure they grow upright. Always use the proper tool to prune a Japanese maple: use hand pruners for branches up to 1/4 of an inch in diameter, loppers are used for anything up to 2 inches, and a pruning saw for anything larger than 2 inches. Never prune more than 1/3 of living tree material per year. Pruning cuts should always be made as close as possible to the collar without cutting into the collar itself. Pruning Upright vs. Weeping Japanese Maples Pruning these two types of Japanese maples is entirely different. You will do your normal yearly maintenance on both, but pruning to achieve a certain look will be very different. With weeping Japanese maples, imagine a line across the trunk and cut above it to obtain an umbrella-like form. Remove all dissimilar-looking leaves on lower branches. Repeat this process yearly until the tree reaches maturity, and then prune as needed to maintain the umbrella shape. If you're starting with a young tree, stake it to achieve an upright habit. (Once it's established, remove the stake.) If you have a Japanese maple with an upright form, look for dissimilar leaves and branches along the trunk and remove them. These are branches growing from the grafting stock. After removing these branches, you should decide whether you want your tree to have a single leader or be multi-stemmed. Most Japanese maples look more appealing as a multi-stemmed tree, but it's fine to grow it with a single leader. Establish one, three, or more leaders by removing any extra branches. Do not leave two leaders, as this can cause splitting. Continue to prune yearly, allowing the leaders to develop height and lateral branches.

A member of the beet family, Swiss chard (Beta vulgaris) is one of the easiest leafy greens to grow because it will thrive in just about any soil type and all but the most extreme temperatures. The leaves and colorful stems are edible and can be eaten raw, steamed, or stir-fried. Learn how to grow Swiss chard in your garden. How to Plant Swiss Chard Swiss chard is a fast-growing vegetable that is ready to harvest in around 40 days. Seeds can be directly sown into the garden about 1/2 inch deep and two inches apart in early spring or late summer. If you start seedlings indoors, plant them after the predicted last frost about four inches apart, taking care to minimize root disturbance. The best planting site for Swiss chard receives full sun and has nutrient-rich, well-draining soil with plenty of organic matter. Swiss Chard Care Light Swiss chard needs full sun to partial shade with 6-8 hours of full sun producing the largest, healthiest plants. If you live in a hot climate, some shade from the strong afternoon sun is beneficial to prevent leaf wilt. Soil For the largest and healthiest plants, Swiss chard prefers soil with a high organic content, a neutral pH (6.0-8.0), and good drainage but still moist. Water Like most leafy greens, Swiss chard needs a consistent amount of water to stay healthy—about one to two inches of water per week depending on your climate and rainfall. Mulching around your plants and between the rows can help retain moisture. Temperature and Humidity The plants grow fastest in the cool temperatures of spring and fall, although they continue to produce leaves throughout the summer. Swiss chard is a sturdy plant that can tolerate some heat, humidity, and drought, but will not flourish without adequate moisture. Fertilizer If the garden soil is not nutrient-rich, apply a complete garden fertilizer such as 10-10-10 mixing it into the top three inches of soil before planting. Pollination Swiss chard produces tiny flowers that use wind and insects as pollinators. Pollination is not a concern since this is an annual crop. How to Grow Swiss Chard From Seed Swiss chard can be direct sown in the garden or started indoors and transplanted into the garden. You can sow directly in the garden when the soil temperature is at least 45°F. Start plants indoors in a seed-starting mix about two to three weeks before your last expected frost date. The seeds will germinate in five to seven days. Fill a seeding tray with seed staring mix. Sprinkle the seeds over the moistened mix and cover seeds with about 1/2 inch of soil. Keep the tray moist and in bright, indirect light. Transplant your seedlings from indoors after the danger of frost has passed. How to Grow Swiss Chard in Pots A Swiss chard plant will grow well in a container that holds at least two quarts of soil and is at least eight inches deep. Be sure the pot has good drainage holes and fill it with potting soil. Add your Swiss chard seedling and water deeply. Place the container where it will receive at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. Water often to keep the soil moist. Swiss Chard Varieties 'Bright Lights': A mixed variety, these stems are red, white, orange, pink, violet, and yellow mixed. It matures in 40 days. 'Northern Lights': Brightly colored stalks and midribs in shades of red, pink, yellow, and white. Matures in 42 days. 'Ruby': Ruby-red stems, reddish-green leaves, red veins that mature in 45 days. 'Lucullus": Just 40 days to maturity with dark green leaves and white stalks. Harvesting Swiss Chard The tastiest Swiss chard leaves are young and tender. You can start harvesting at any time for smaller leaves that can be eaten raw in salads. Or, wait until the leaves are around 12 inches long with a sturdier stem for cooking. Remove the largest outer leaves first with a sharp knife or garden shears. Continue harvesting single leaves to encourage new leaves to grow. You can eat both the leaves and the stems. Mature leaves are chopped and cooked in sautés, soups, or stews. Stop harvesting when the plant bolts and goes to flower. The leaves will then be tough and bitter. If you can't eat or share all of the leaves, just add them to your compost pile. Pruning Swiss chard does not require pruning other than removing mature outer leaves to encourage new growth. If a plant is overrun with insects, you may wish to cut it down to the soil line to help get rid of the pests. If the plant roots are healthy, Swiss chard will regrow after cutting. Propagating Swiss chard is commonly started from seeds or nursery seedlings, but it can be propagated from cuttings. Cuttings should be taken from the oldest leaves. Use gardening shears to cut a mature stem from the bottom of the plant. Do not propagate from the plant's center. Trim the bottom of the stem at a 45º angle leaving it 4 to 6 inches long. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone and insert it into a small container with drainage holes filled with moist soilless potting mix. Keep the potting mix moist. Roots should develop in a few weeks. If you gently tug on the stem and feel resistance, the Swiss chard is ready to transplant. Overwintering Swiss chard is cold-tolerant and will continue to grow in the garden through frosts until temperatures drop to the mid-20s Fahrenheit. At that point, since the vegetable is an annual it is best to allow the plants to die and plant again in the spring. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Swiss chard leaves can be affected by Cercospora leaf spot, causing older infected leaves to yellow and die. This fungal disease usually occurs when conditions are warm and humid. To help prevent the spread, you can use a fungicide or remove infected leaves and pull up and discard badly infected plants. Use dense organic mulch around plants and water only at the base of plants, not overhead. Leafminers will feed on the surface of Swiss chard leaves. They are considered minor pests, but heavy infestations can reduce leaf quality and yield. Remove infested leaves and plants to destroy them as a primary control. Root-knot nematodes are small colorless roundworms that infect plant roots. While there is no chemical treatment, if a plant is wilting, pull it up and inspect the roots. If they look "knotty" discard the plant. Rotate Swiss chard to another area of the garden next year and incorporate compost to help suppress root-knot nematode populations.