After putting in all the effort that goes into hollowing out and carving jack-o-lanterns, no one wants to see their carved pumpkins spoil before Halloween. But, pumpkins only last for about 3 to 5 days after carving (and spoil even faster in warm weather). With Halloween just around the corner, I wanted to find out how to keep pumpkins from rotting, so I took to the internet and tracked down three viral hacks that allegedly keep pumpkins fresh longer. I gave the hacks a test run on my own pumpkins and here are the results. The Test I started my test in early October when the temperatures were around 60 degrees F during the day. I purchased 4 pumpkins that were similar in size, color, and texture to keep the test as consistent as possible. I even carved (or tried to) the same face onto each picture-perfect pumpkin. I did keep one pumpkin as a control to get a clear idea of how long pumpkins last in the conditions around my home. Below is the lineup of hacks that I tried: Diluted bleach spray: I sprayed one pumpkin daily, inside and out, with a diluted bleach spray made with 1 part bleach to 9 parts water. Hair spray: I sprayed one pumpkin, inside and out, with hair spray and applied this treatment only once after carving the pumpkin. Coconut oil: I rubbed coconut oil, inside and out, on one pumpkin and applied this treatment one time, right after carving. It's also biodegradable and compostable. Day 1 I cleaned the exterior of all the pumpkins with diluted bleach, carved them, applied the treatments to the test pumpkins, and set the pumpkins outside without candles. All three treatments were easy to apply, although the coconut oil was slightly messy. By evening, the control pumpkin and the pumpkin sprayed with bleach looked a little dry around their carved edges, but the other two pumpkins still looked fresh. Day 3 The weather remained warm and sunny through day 3 and, by the third day, that warmth was starting to take its toll on the control pumpkin and the pumpkin treated with bleach. These two pumpkins had already developed small patches of dark mold on their interiors, although their carved edges still looked mold-free and fresh enough for display. There was no visible mold on the hairspray and coconut oil pumpkins, but the skin near the carved sections of the hairspray pumpkin had darkened. Day 5 The difference in the pumpkins was undeniable by day 5. The weather was still pleasant and warm and all 4 pumpkins had at least some mold growing on their interiors; however, the coconut oil pumpkin had significantly less mold than the other three pumpkins and its carving still looked fresh. The hairspray pumpkin had a fair amount of mold on its interior but was still displayable. The control and bleach pumpkins, however, had mold growing along their carved eyes and mouths and did not look fresh. Days 6 through 10 Most pumpkin lovers would have disposed of the control and bleach pumpkins by day 5 or 6 due to visible mold, but I kept the experiment going a little longer. By day 10, all four pumpkins had dark mold on their interiors and carved sections, but the coconut oil pumpkin had much less mold than the other pumpkins. The carved edges of the coconut oil pumpkin also looked fresher and displayed less wrinkling and warping. Final Verdict Honorable mention: the hairspray treatment, which did appear to repel mold better than the bleach treatment. The clear winner: coconut oil. While the coconut oil treatment was messier to apply, it kept the pumpkin’s carved edges from drying out, significantly inhibited mold growth by at least 3 days compared to the control, and kept the pumpkin in displayable shape for at least 10 days. Considering the results of this experiment, I plan to wipe the pumpkins I carve for trick-or-treat night down with coconut oil after I carve them. But I’m also going to carve those pumpkins when the weather is cooler to help them stay fresh even longer.

Make sure your tulips are receiving enough sunlight by placing their pot under the sun and watering them sufficiently. For top-heavy tulips, use a stick or other support to help your tulips stand up straight. This will help make them grow stronger. To treat Botrytis blight, a common disease, remove all infected foliage and flowers and apply a fungicide spray. Spring has sprung, and one of the most beautiful flowers to see blooming this time of year is the tulip. Stately, tall, and colorful flowers, tulips, make a spring flower garden truly dazzle. But this might not be the case if your tulips are drooping, which can come from a myriad of causes. We chatted with flower and garden experts to find out why tulips droop and what to do about it. Insufficient Sunlight Tulips love sunlight and have a natural tendency to grow directly towards a light source. If that light source is not directly above them, the tulips can grow sideways, making them appear wilted, even though the flowers are perfectly healthy, Lotte Berendsen, an expert botanist from the PlantIn app, explains. To fix this problem, provide your tulips with sufficient sunlight, and make sure that the light source is placed above the pot. Keeping your tulips, even in pots, as a container garden, outside is the best way to grow them, as they will naturally grow up towards the sun while outside, Berendsen says. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Top-Heavy Tulips Sometimes, tulips’ flower heads are simply too large and heavy for the stem to keep them upright. But this is more common in tulip varieties with large, bushy flower heads, Berendsen explains. “Unfortunately, there’s little you can do to help your top-heavy tulips stand up naturally,” she says. “We suggest adding a stick or other support to help keep your tulips standing straight.” Sometimes, the plant will gain strength from a bit of help and eventually may be able to stand up on its own. Lack of Water Tulips are thirsty flowers and love lots of water. For this reason, no water can make a tulip flower droop, Charlotte Denne, a wildflower seed grower, says. The tulips’ stems become dehydrated, and then the flowers droop, as the stems are not strong enough to support the weight of the blooms without water. One way to fix this is to give the flower more water to keep the flower upright—or, treat the tulips as a cut flower garden, trimming the stems and placing the flowers in fresh water immediately, Denne says. Diseases Tulips are susceptible to a few diseases that can cause wilting. “Botrytis blight is the most commonly found one in tulips,” Berendsen explains. “This disease can cause dramatic wilting, browning, and blister-like lead or flower spots.” To treat Botrytis blight, remove all infected foliage and flowers and apply a suitable fungicide spray, she says. In the future, you can prevent Botrytis blight by applying proper crop rotation, keeping your plant’s foliage as dry as possible, applying preventative fungicides, and researching disease-free variants of your favorite tulip varieties. Blocked Stems It’s rare, but tulip stems can become blocked. Air bubbles or a buildup of bacteria, which forms a slimy biofilm, can block water uptake up the flower’s stem, Denne says. To fix this problem, you can re-cut stems at an angle under the waterline to clear blockages, she says. However, it is difficult to diagnose blocked stems beyond cutting the flower and seeing if it regrows. So, after cutting the flower, enjoy the flower in a bouquet while you wait. Old Age As with anything, tulips naturally age. And as they age, they droop, Denne says. You can enjoy the flowers as they last or replace them with fresh blooms, she says. Berendsen agrees and explains that if your tulip bloom is wilting and drooping because it’s at the end of its growth period, it’s better to let it die. “Tulip blooms last two to four weeks, so if your tulip has been in bloom for the past weeks, consider that it’s time to say goodbye,” she says. Snip the bloom once it’s entirely brown, as close to the base as possible.

The bleeding heart flower (Lamprocapnos spectabilis) gets its name from its puffy, heart shaped pink blossoms that bloom in the spring. Beneath each heart shape sticks out a white petal with a red streak. The long, arching stems give the plant a cascading effect. This plant, which is native to Asia, can reach up to three feet in maturity. In a typical growing season, it will produce around 20 small flowers on its stems and stay in bloom for several weeks throughout the spring. These are perennial plants, which means even if the bleeding heart itself disappears, it will bloom again the next year in either fall or spring. Bleeding heart plants are in the same family as poppies and are toxic to people and pets. Bleeding Heart Care Here are the basic care requirements for growing a bleeding heart: Plant bleeding heart in a shady, protected area Place roots down in the ground with the crown just below the soil Use rich, organic moist, well-draining soil Keep the soil moist but not soggy Fertilize bleeding heart plants only if your soil is poor Planting Plant a bleeding heart in partial shade and rich, well-draining soil. Plant the bleeding heart's bare roots so the crown is about 1 to 2 inches below the soil. If it's planted too deeply, the crown may rot. Protect these delicate flowers from strong winds by placing a bleeding heart in an area with a windbreak and some sun protection. A woodland garden is ideal for a bleeding heart plant. Light Bleeding heart does best in partial shade, but it can also handle full shade. Note that direct sun can cause the plant to go dormant early and cut its blooming period short. Soil Bleeding heart prefers humus-rich, moist, well-draining soil with lots of organic matter. A slightly acidic to neutral soil pH is best. Before planting, it's ideal to work a few inches of compost into the soil, especially if you don't have organically rich soil. Water Bleeding heart plants like lightly moist soil. It doesn't tolerate soggy or dry soils very well. Water throughout the growing season when the top inch of soil has dried out, even during summer dormancy to keep the roots hydrated. But make sure the soil doesn't stay waterlogged, which can lead to root rot. Temperature and Humidity Bleeding hearts' ideal temperature is between 55-75º, and it has a tolerance for high humidity. As the summer heat strengthens, you'll likely see the foliage yellowing; this is a perfectly normal sign of the plant going dormant to store its energy. Fertilizer Bleeding heart plants are not heavy feeders, so when to fertilize depends on the quality of your soil. If you have rich, organic soil that is amended every year, you likely won't have to feed at all. If you have poor soil, you can apply an all-purpose, slow-release fertilizer in the spring. Also, as a woodland plant, the bleeding heart does well with a top dressing of leaf mold. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Types of Bleeding Heart Bleeding heart bush (Lamprocapnos spectabilis), or common bleeding heart, differs in its looks, growing conditions, and hardiness from the bleeding heart vine (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), also known as the glory bower plant. When planting common bleeding heart, look for several varieties with similar growing characteristics, including: Lamprocapnos spectabilis 'Alba': This cultivar produces pure white heart-shaped flowers. Lamprocapnos spectabilis 'Gold Heart': This cultivar produces pink flowers and yellow-gold foliage but grows slightly smaller (up to 2 feet tall) than the classic bleeding heart plant. Lamprocapnos spectabilis 'Valentine': An eye-popping cultivar, this plant blooms bright cherry-red flowers with white tips and burgundy stems. Dicentra spectabilis ''White Gold': This elegant plant blooms with bright white flowers and chartreuse foliage. Dicentra spectabilis 'Ruby Gold': This unique variety features golden foliage with ruby red blooms. Pruning No major pruning is required, though you can trim back the foliage as it becomes brown and unsightly before dormancy. Refrain from deadheading (removing the spent blooms) if you want the flowers to go to seed. Propagating Bleeding Heart Bleeding heart is usually planted from nursery seedlings, but you can propagate bleeding heart from seeds, clump division, or stem cuttings. Propagation by cuttings is best done in spring to early summer. If you are starting from seeds in the garden, sow them in the fall. Here's how to propagate bleeding hearts: Propagation by Division Dig a circle around the crown of the roots and pull up the root ball. The roots grow horizontally. Do not worry when cutting through the roots. Examine the root crown; look for pink buds of growth. Cut through the root ball, leaving at least one bud per sectioned area (two to three buds per section is better). Replant the original root ball in its original spot. Plant the new section or sections in new spots or a potting mix enriched with compost or leaf mold. Water thoroughly to moisten the soil, but do not leave it too wet or soggy. Propagation by Cuttings Use sterilized pruners to take a 3- to 5-inch cutting from a healthy bleeding heart plant and take off the leaves from the bottom half of the cutting. Fill a container with potting mix and poke a hole in the center of the soil. Dip the cut end of the cutting into rooting hormone and put it into the hole. Firm the soil around the stem. Water the soil to the point that it's moist but not soggy. Put a clear plastic bag around the cutting, not touching the plant. If condensation appears on the inside of the bag, poke a hole in the plastic for some ventilation. Place the plant in indirect light. A bright windowsill will be too sunny and scorch the plant. Make sure the soil remains moist but not soggy. Once you notice new growth, the plant has successfully rooted. Remove the plastic bag. Move the bleeding heart plant outdoors once it's rooted well and new growth is more abundant. Harden off the plant in a protected spot for a few days before moving it to its permanent spot outdoors. How to Grow Bleeding Heart From Seed To start seeds indoors, place the seeds in a pot of soil. Put the pot in a plastic bag, and place it in the freezer for six to eight weeks. Remove the pot, and gradually reintroduce the plant to light and warmer conditions. The change in temperature and exposure to sunlight will allow the seeds to germinate and sprout. Bleeding hearts also tend to self-seed in the garden, though not invasively. The tiny seedlings can be carefully dug up and transplanted. Potting and Repotting Bleeding Heart Bleeding heart plants do well as container plants, and they can be grown indoors, as well, but conditions need to be right. Opt for a large container that's at least a 12-inch pot with drainage holes. Unglazed clay is best to allow excess moisture to evaporate through its walls. Use a quality, well-draining potting mix. A bleeding heart plant can live for four to five years in a large container before becoming root-bound and needing to be repotted. Either divide your plant or move up to a container that will fit its root ball with a couple of inches to spare between it and the container walls. Gently ease the plant out of its old container, and place it at the same depth in the new pot. Fill around it with potting mix, and water well. Overwintering Bleeding heart will naturally die back during the winter season. However, the roots should survive the cold weather, even if the plant appears dead above ground. As the plant depreciates before winter, you can cut the stems down to 1 or 2 inches from ground level. Keep watering the soil up until the first frost. At the start of winter, you can protect the roots and help them retain moisture by adding a 2-inch layer of mulch on top of the plant stems. Remove the mulch as the ground thaws in the spring. Common Pests & Plant Diseases When it comes to pests, bleeding heart struggles the most with aphids, scale, slugs, and snails. The easiest and least invasive treatment for aphids and scale is using an insecticidal soap or neem oil. Slugs and snails are best remedied by physically picking them off at night or in the early morning and disposing of them in a bucket of soapy water. Bleeding heart is prone to fungal diseases, including powdery mildew and leaf spot, which can be treated with a fungicide. If the plant has turned black and is foul-smelling, it's rotting and can infect other nearby plants. Pull the plant and dispose of it in a sealed bag. If it was in a container, sterilize the entire container and throw out the soil. If the diseased plant was pulled from your garden, treat the area with a fungicide. How to Get Bleeding Heart to Bloom Bleeding heart is usually a spring-blooming plant and will continue to flower into the summer until it gets too hot. Note that this plant takes some time to establish and might not flower in its first growing season. Plants that are cramped and need to be divided also might not flower or flower less than a typical bloom. To trigger the plant to flower again in the season, you can stimulate new growth by cutting the plant down to one inch above ground level. Also, ensure that the plant stays out of the direct sunlight, which can hinder blooming. Common Problems With Bleeding Heart Bleeding heart plants are not usually problematic when the growing conditions are right. Common issues stem from inadequate watering or pest and disease problems. Powdery Patches on Foliage Spots of black, gray, white, or pink powder on bleeding heart leaves indicate powdery mildew, a treatable disease when caught immediately. A fungicide will remove the problem. To prevent powdery mildew, water at the soil level (not on the foliage) and ensure the plants are not crowded and have plenty of aeration. Brown or Black Spots on the Leaves If a bleeding heart plant develops small brown or black spots on the leaves that grow larger with a yellow ring or halo with the center of the ring beginning to rot out, then the plant likely has fungal leaf spot. Treatment with a fungicide or baking soda solution can neutralize the fungus if caught early. As the disease progresses, the leaves drop and the plant will die. Yellowing Leaves A bleeding heart plant naturally turns yellow and dies back as the temperature increases. The plant is entering dormancy, which is its normal growth cycle. However, yellowing leaves can also occur if the plant is getting too much water, the soil is too alkaline, or the plant is getting too much sun. Adjust those conditions as necessary. Additionally, yellowing can also be a sign of a fungal disease emerging, such as verticillium or fusarium. A plant with this disease is not salvageable and should be destroyed before it spreads to other plants. Browning, Blackening, or Rapid Wilting of the Plant Diseases like verticillium wilt, fusarium wilt, botrytis, and root rot will cause a plant to fail quickly. Initial signs will be wilting, leading to all-over browning or the plant beginning to rot. Botrytis appears as a gray mold that overtakes the plant. If your plant is infected with these fungal issues and has begun to brown or blacken, the plant is too far gone, and fungicide will likely not help. Remove all of the soil, discard it, and sterilize the container before using it again. Seal the plant in a plastic bag before discarding it.