Plum blossom (Prunus mume), also commonly known as Chinese plum or Japanese plum, is an ornamental tree that produces attractive blossoms and small stone fruits. Its beauty rivals the cherry blossom tree, and it blooms earlier in the year, making it a welcome sight during winter. Plum blossom trees grow best in full to partial sunlight, and require moist but well-draining soil with an acidic pH level. The leaves, stems, and seeds of the plum blossom are toxic to dogs and cats. Plum Blossom Care Here are the main care requirements for growing plum blossom. Plant in well-draining soil. Choose a spot that receives at least four to six hours of sunlight daily. Water regularly but ensure adequate drainage to avoid oversaturation. Feed with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer during late summer or early fall. Light Like most flowering and fruiting trees, plum blossom trees will do best in a location that receives full sun. However, the tree can grow in partial shade conditions but it should receive at least four hours of sunlight a day. Soil Well-draining soil is the main requirement for the planting site. And while the tree can tolerate a range of soil conditions, loamy, rich soil is ideal. It prefers acidic soil pH levels. Water The plum blossom will need to be watered regularly to ensure the soil remains moist but mature trees exhibit moderate drought tolerance. When deciding how often to water this tree, keep in mind that the soil should not become oversaturated. Good drainage assists in preventing soggy soil conditions. Temperature and Humidity The ideal climate for plum blossom trees is USDA hardiness zones 6 to 9, which can see temperatures dip below 0°F. Trees planted in the coldest regions should be located in a sheltered area to protect against the effects of harsh winter winds. On the other hand, if you grow plum blossom trees in a warmer climate, choose a planting location that provides partial shade during the hottest part of the day to avoid foliage damage from intense sun. Fertilizer To support the production of foliage and fruit, plum blossom trees do best when grown in nutrient-rich soil. If you have subpar soil quality, you should consider supplementing with an organic fertilizer. For conventional fertilizer, a high nitrogen formula can help to support growth, especially during the first few years. Apply fertilizer during the late summer or early fall to support the following season’s growth. As a general rule of thumb, trees in the Prunus genus should produce about 24 inches of new shoot growth every year.2 If your tree is producing more than that, cut back on feeding nitrogen-rich fertilizer. If it's growing more slowly, increase the amount of nitrogen fertilizer you administer. Pruning If you decide to prune the plum blossom tree to maintain a desired shape and eliminate any dead wood, when you prune the tree is critically important if you are hoping to maximize flower production. Plum blossom trees should be pruned immediately after flowering. Since the tree blooms on the previous year’s wood, pruning ahead of flowering will result in the loss of buds and reduced flower production. In most instances, you’ll want to cut back the limbs by two nodes. Alternatively, if fungal disease is a concern, you can prune the plum blossom tree in the summer. While the tree is less susceptible to infection in the pruning cuts, you’ll likely reduce some of the tree’s flowering potential for the following year. Propagating Plum Blossom Trees Cuttings of prunus mume can be notoriously hard to root and to grow a plant that is true to the parent cultivar, you’ll have to graft a softwood cutting onto a rootstock. Because of the challenge of propagation and slow rate of flowering activity (usually at least two years for grafted specimens), it’s usually best to purchase a young tree from a nursery. How to Grow Plum Blossom From Seed Plum blossom trees are known to be challenging to propagate using cuttings but have better results when grown from seed, although it may take at least three years to see flower production. If you’d like to grow plum blossom from seeds—acquired from ripened fruit or a nursery, here’s how to do it: Fill a plastic bag with moistened sphagnum moss and sand (1:1 ratio). Bury the seeds inside the filler material. Stratify the seeds by placing the bag inside a refrigerator for about three months. If the seeds begin to sprout sooner, it’s time to plant them. In the spring, sow the seeds in your desired outdoor garden location. Alternatively, you can start the seeds in greenhouse conditions and then transplant in the spring. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Some of the most common pests that are attracted to plum blossom trees are aphids, spider mites, tent caterpillars, and borers. Scale can also be a problem, especially on the fruit produced by the tree. Diseases that sometimes afflict plum blossom trees are usually fungal. Some of the most common infections are honey fungus, verticillium wilt, silver leaf, and brown rot. In addition, Prunus species are also subject to bacterial canker, which causes sunken, oozing sections of bark and impedes shoot development.3 How to Get Plum Blossom to Bloom Plum blossom trees typically bloom in February and March, but as early as January in more temperate climates. This early blooming activity distinguishes it from the similar (and more well-known) cherry blossom tree. What Do Plum Blossom Flowers Look and Smell Like? Plum blossom flowers have a showy appearance with pink petals, although some cultivars display white or even reddish blossoms. The single or double flowers on a plum blossom tree have a short stem that emerges from the bare branches of the tree, prior to the appearance of foliage. The tree will stay in bloom for several weeks, up to a month. Aside from a splashy show of color, the plum blossom tree is also noted for its sweet, slightly spicy fragrance emanating from the opened flower blossoms. Common Problems With Plum Blossom Plum blossom trees are generally considered to be low-maintenance, but they can be impacted by various pests or environmental conditions. The most common issue relates to imbalances in watering or infection from bacteria and fungi. Leaves Turning Yellow or Brown If the leaves of the plum blossom tree begin to turn yellow, it could be a sign that the tree is experiencing stress from being under-watered. Check the soil and ensure that it’s moist. Water regularly to improve soil moisture but don’t overwater the tree, remembering that the soil shouldn’t become overly saturated and that it can take time for a tree to recover from drought stress. Leaves that turn yellow or develop brown spots can also be a sign of fungal or bacterial infection. A closer inspection of the tree's limbs and roots can reveal other symptoms that might point to verticillium wilt, bacterial canker, brown rot, or silver leaf disease. If you suspect any of these diseases, it would be best to do more research on the specific condition and how to minimize the impact of the disease on your tree and surrounding landscape plants.

Knowing when to harvest okra will make a big difference in how it tastes. Tender, young okra is delicious but large, older pods will be tough and fibrous. The first okra pods should be ready to harvest about 60 to 70 days after planting when pods are 2 to 3 inches long. Okra pods develop continuously over the summer, growing very fast on the plant, and should be harvested every two days (or more!) Read on for tips on harvesting okra, including signs they're ready and how to do it the right way. How to Know Okra Is Ready to Pick It's been 2-3 months since you planted. Okra should be ready to harvest 60 to 70 days after planting the seeds. Transplanted seedlings from seeds germinated indoors will produce pods in about 40 to 55 days. Okra flowers are wilting away. Okra plants produce large, yellow flowers that look much like a hibiscus. Once the okra blooms have wilted, the pods will form within a few days. Pods are 2-3 inches long. The pods should be picked when they are about two to three inches long—bigger is not better for okra pods. Pods are vibrantly colored. The pods should be vibrant green or purple, depending on the variety you are growing. Pale pods can be woody. How to Harvest Okra the Right Way While the pods can be snapped off the stem by hand, it's best to use garden shears or a sharp knife to minimize damage to the plant. Leave a short stem about one-fourth inch at the top of the okra pod. Keep a bucket or basket close by to collect the pods—they are easily bruised if handled too much. Okra is best eaten freshly harvested from the garden. If storing, do not wash the pods before placing them in the refrigerator vegetable bin. If properly harvested, handled gently, and stored at temperatures of 45 to 50 °F., the pods should last for about seven days. 7 Additional Tips for Growing Okra Round-podded okra varieties (Louisiana Green Velvet, Emerald, Stewarts Zeebest, Peter Pan, and Greeny Splendor) actually do remain tender at larger pod sizes. Choose them for slicing and food preservation. With optimal growing conditions and care, when harvested regularly, okra plants will continue to produce blooms and pods for up to 12 weeks. Each flower produces one okra pod. The flowers are edible and make great additions to salads. However, don’t pick them all—the flower, once pollinated, produces the pods. While the okra plant is a single stalk, its leaves need plenty of room to grow. Okra should be planted 9-12 inches apart with 3-6 feet between rows. Okra can be cut back in late summer to produce new growth and extend the harvest season. When harvest time is over, okra pods can be left on the plant to dry to save seed for next year. Okra needs full sun, warm temperatures, and well-draining soil to thrive.

Love or hate the taste, cilantro is a popular addition to many cuisines. If you're growing cilantro you have probably had the problem of it bolting easily, which simply means that the plant sends up a flower stalk and goes to seed. Since cilantro is a cool-season herb, warming temperatures will signal to the plant that it's time to flower and go to seed rather than continue producing leaves. It's very sensitive to warmer temperatures, so if you're seeing signs of flowering, that's likely why. Bolting is the plant is doing what comes naturally, but you can slowly down the bolting with these some growing tips. Learn more ahead about cilantro bolting. Why Does Cilantro Bolt? Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum) is a short-lived annual, cool-season herb.1 Once temperatures begin to rise and reach the 70s, the plant responds by bolting (flowering and going to seed) as a way to continue its life cycle. Producing seeds means that the species has a chance for another crop. 6 Ways to Keep Cilantro from Bolting While it can be difficult to stop cilantro from bolting, there are some ways to extend the life of the plant before it goes to seed and dies. Keep it Cool Whether you are growing cilantro in the garden or indoors in containers, temperature is a huge factor in how long the plant will last before it bolts. You can extend the harvest season by planting it in the early spring and fall when day and nighttime temperatures or lower. If growing cilantro indoors keep the plants around 70 degrees or lower. Control the Sunlight Cilantro needs only about six hours of bright sunlight. Select an indoor or outdoor spot that doesn't receive high-noon heat. Lighting for indoor pots of cilantro is easily controlled with grow lights. If planting outdoors in a hot climate, consider placing the plants where they can receive some afternoon shade. Too much heat from direct sun can cause the plant to bolt early. Water Regularly Plants that receive too much or too little water are placed under stress. To survive the stress, the plant bolts to produce some seed to extend the species. Whether growing in containers or the ground, keep the soil evenly moist but be sure the roots are never waterlogged. Pinch or Prune Often For new plants, once they reach about six inches tall pinch back the tips. Harvest or prune the leaves often (once a week) to remove damaged growth, yellowing leaves, or flowers that form. Practice Succession Planting This tip doesn't stop cilantro plants from bolting but it does help you keep tender, tasty cilantro on hand. Wait two to three weeks between each time you start seeds or plant new cilantro seedlings. This is called succession planting or planting the same crop several times during the growing season. Choose Slow-Bolting Cultivars There are cilantro cultivars that are less prone to bolting. Look for seedlings or seed packets that are described as bolt-resistant, heat-tolerant, or long-standing. Three choices are ‘Calypso’, ‘Slo Bolt’, and 'Leisure'. These cultivars are usually less sensitive to heat and can produce good-tasting foliage a bit longer into the growing season. Why Bolted Plants Can Actually Be Beneficial While it is disappointing to see a plant bolt and die, there are benefits to the natural process of bolting. The flowers that form will help attract much-needed pollinators to your garden. Many plants produce edible seeds after bolting that add flavor to prepared foods. The most beneficial effect of bolting is the production of seeds that can be saved to grow new plants. Backyard gardeners and commercial farmers have long known the value of allowing some plants to "go to seed" to maintain the longevity of a plant species.