Planting onion sets or slips in autumn has some distinct advantages and is much like planting garlicor shallots. But success isn't always guaranteed. Timing, along with your specific growing zone, and choosing the right onion variety all make a difference between big, flavorful bulbs and small bulbs or ones that fail to develop. This guide tells you when and how to plant autumn onions for a bountiful harvest the following spring and summer. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Why Plant Onions in Fall? Onions establish and develop green tops and roots in cooler weather which translates to bigger and more flavorful bulbs. In northern zones, spring planted onions need to get into the ground early which can be challenging unless you have already prepared a raised bed or garden area. Setting them out in autumn gives plants a head start, allowing them to establish before winter frost and freezing. After several frosts, plants go dormant. When temperatures start to rise in spring and day hours lengthen, your onions are ready to direct energy into growing bulbs. Keeping autumn-planted onions free of weeds is easier as many garden weeds have died back. How to Plant Onions in Fall Both sets and slips (young plants) need four to six weeks to establish tops and roots before frost sets in. Find the first frost date in your zone and back time to find out the best day/s for planting. Start by digging a trench 2 to 3 inches deep and 2 inches wide. Fill the bottom of the trench with an inch or two of well-aged compost. Place the sets or slips about 1/2 inch into the compost layer allowing 4 to 6 inches in between each onion. Place sets with the pointed end facing up. Fill the rest of the trench with soil, covering the onion with about 1/2 inch of soil. If you start with slips, leave any green tops above the soil surface. Water and mulch with a thin layer of straw or dried leaves. Once new green growth appears, add more mulch and continue to water every few days. You'll need a mulch layer of at least 6 inches to protect roots when ground freezes. Best Onions for Fall Planting Onion sets are widely available in spring, sold as yellow, white, or red, and often not identified by variety. Try searching online or in garden catalogs to find sets or slips for autumn planting. Look for varieties most successful in your growing zone. Onions are categorized as short-day, intermediate, or long-day. Keep in mind that sets need 80 days and slips need up to 110 days to mature from the time they're planted. Here are a few onion varieties to consider for autumn planting. 'Electric': Winter hardy with shiny red skin and pink-tinged flesh. Mild, sweet flavor. 'Radar': Yellow, globe-shaped Japanese variety. Mild flavor and good bolt resistance. 'Snowball': A short-day variety with medium-sized, slightly flattened bulbs. A mild but tangy onion best for eating fresh. 'Granex': Large, globe-shaped bulbs are mild and sweet. A short-day variety and a popular choice for southern gardens. 'Walla Walla': Extra large bulbs mature in 90 days. This long day type is comparable to Vidalia onion in flavor. Spring and Summer Harvesting Once soil warms in spring and day time hours increase, autumn planted onions start forming bulbs. Short day onions are the quickest to bulb up and ready to harvest in as few as 75 days in late April and early May. Intermediate and long day types will be ready to harvest from early to mid summer. The sooner daylight hours reach the time needed for bulbing, the sooner you'll be able to harvest good size onions. When bulbs are mature, they sit partially above soil level and the green tops turn yellow and flop over. Mature bulbs can remain in the ground for one or two weeks but if left too long they become vulnerable to thrips and can soften and rot.

Although many people associate hibiscus with tropical or subtropical regions, it also grows in temperate climates throughout the world. The large Hibiscus genus of over 200 species and many more cultivars includes annuals, perennials, shrubs, and small trees. The large, trumpet-shaped flowers of up to 12 inches in diameter are common to all hibiscus—they are the main attraction of this popular ornamental. The flowers come in a kaleidoscope of bright colors from white to pink, red, blue, orange, peach, yellow, and purple. All hibiscus flowers are very attractive to butterflies and hummingbirds. The care and growing requirements vary from species to species. Hibiscus Care The care you provide your hibiscus will vary depending on whether it is a hardy or tropical variety and whether it is grown indoors or outdoors. Here are the main care requirements for growing hibiscus: In northern US, plant hibiscus in full sun. In the southern US, filtered sunlight is preferable. The soil should be fertile and loamy. All hibiscus needs consistently moist soil with good drainage. Keep the soil moist and water as needed. Select varieties that tolerate the temperatures in your location year-round. Alternatively, grow hibiscus in pots and overwinter it indoors. Fertilize the plant regularly during the growing season. Light Hibiscus loves bright conditions. In northern climes, full sun is best, but in the intense sunlight of southern locations, filtered sunlight is better. Indoors, hibiscus needs a bright spot near a sunny window. However, keep it away from strong, direct sunlight. If you move the plant outdoors for the summer, gradually acclimate it to the brighter light conditions. Soil All hibiscus do best in well-drained, fertile, moist, loamy soil. The hardy varieties are wetland natives and are a good choice for sites that are too wet for other plants. Most hibiscus prefer a slightly acidic soil pH. Water All hibiscus are thirsty plants that need to be kept moist. Unless they are planted in consistently moist soil, water them regularly. Mulching around the plant base helps with moisture retention. For container-grown plants, wait until the top inch of the potting mix fully dries out before watering. In hot summer weather, you might need to water your potted hibiscus as often as daily. Indoor tropical hibiscus benefits from regular watering from spring to early autumn during the growing season. Significantly reduce watering during the dormant period in the winter. Temperature and Humidity Hardy hibiscus grows in cool, temperate climates. It thrives in temperatures between 60°F to 90°F and tolerates temperatures as low as -30°F.1 Temperatures below 50°F cause cold-sensitive and tropical varieties to drop their leaves and temperatures below freezing kill the plants. Bring container-grown tropical hibiscus indoors when weather cools. All hibiscus thrive in high humidity; they aren't suitable for hot, arid climates. The high humidity found in a bathroom is a good place for an indoor hibiscus. Fertilizer To encourage abundant, healthy blooms with vibrant colors, hibiscus benefits from light yet regular fertilization. There is specially formulated hibiscus fertilizer, but any other fertilizer that is moderate in nitrogen, low in phosphorus, and high in potassium such as 10-4-12 or 12-4-18 will also work. Use a diluted water-soluble fertilizer once a week for hardy or tropical hibiscus. Granular slow-release fertilizer should be applied on hardy hibiscus three times a year, including early spring, after the first round of blooming, and midsummer, and tropical hibiscus monthly during the growing season from spring to fall. Types of Hibiscus There are hundreds of hibiscus species, including tropical and hardy hibiscus, plus many hybrids and cultivars. The four most popular species are: Tropical hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis): Also known as Chinese hibiscus, tropical hibiscus plants produce large and showy blooms from spring through fall as long as they get plenty of sunlight. In colder climates, plant tropical hibiscus in a container and overwinter it indoors. There are many different varieties, including the popular 'Fiesta'. USDA Hardiness Zone 7-11. Hardy hibiscus (Hibiscus moscheutos): This is the hibiscus for a cooler climate. Native to North America, the oversized flowers feature tissue-thin, ruffled petals in shades of pink, lilac, red, magenta, and white. USDA Hardiness Zone 4-9. Swamp hibiscus (Hibiscus coccineus): Native to the southeastern United States, this unusual hibiscus species has large, bright red, pinwheel-like flowers in the summer. USDA Hardiness Zone 6-9. Cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis): The show-stopping flowers of this tropical shrub start as a white or light pink color and within one to three days, change to a magenta pink and then a dark pink to red. USDA Hardiness Zone 7-11. Pruning Pruning hibiscus annually stimulates new growth with flower buds. The timing depends on the type of hibiscus you have but generally, pruning should be done as soon as the weather warms up in the spring. Hardy hibiscus mostly dies back to the ground in winter so you will only have to remove the dead stems before the new growth emerges. Dead, damaged, or diseased stems should be pruned at any time as soon as you notice them. Propagating Hibiscus Some hibiscus types are best propagated from stem cuttings and others can be propagated from seed. Follow the step-by-step propagation instructions for the type of hibiscus you have. How to Grow Hibiscus From Seed Growing hibiscus from seeds is usually only recommended for swamp hibiscus and roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa), the hibiscus species whose flowers are used for tea. For all other hibiscus types, propagation from seed is challenging and will likely lead to disappointing results because hibiscus cultivars and hybrids propagated from seed won’t produce a plant that is true to the parent. Potting and Repotting Hibiscus Nutrient-loving potted hibiscus will benefit from being repotted every couple of years in early spring. Avoid deep pots, otherwise the plant will spend a lot of its energy on root development instead of flower production. The ideal pot shape is quite wide but relatively shallow. Repot a plant that has outgrown its container into a pot one size larger and filled with fresh potting mix. Water well to establish the settle in its new home. Overwintering Tropical hibiscus is only hardy to USDA Zone 9 so it needs to be overwintered indoors in a warm spot where it gets plenty of indirect sunlight daily. Before you move the plant inside, cut it back by one-third and spray it thoroughly with a garden hose to remove any pests that may be present on the plant. Let the soil almost fully dry out between waterings and stop fertilizing. Leaf drop during the dormancy is normal; the plant will start regrowth in the spring. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Hibiscus is not bothered by many pests or diseases, but red spider mites become a problem when humidity levels are not high enough. Another potential pest is aphids. Keep them at bay with regular cleaning or insecticidal soaps. The appeal of hibiscus to deer depends on the species. How to Get Hibiscus to Bloom Bloom Months Depending on the type, hibiscus blooms from June to early fall. How Long Does Hibiscus Bloom? Individual flowers of most varieties only last for one day before they close and eventually fall off the plant. The payoff is a very long bloom period. Hardy hibiscus blooms from mid to late summer until the first frost and tropical hibiscus blooms from spring through late fall and into winter in frost-free climates. What Do Hibiscus Flowers Look and Smell Like? Hibiscus flowers range in size from 2 to 12 inches. They come in a kaleidoscope of colors and shades and the flowers are single or double trumpet-shape blooms. The flowers have no scent. How to Encourage More Blooms Failure to bloom is very often the result of shady conditions or a lack of fertilizer. Weekly feeding with a diluted liquid fertilizer may prompt your plant to produce plentiful flowers. Caring for Hibiscus After It Blooms Cutting perennial hibiscus back by one-third after the first bloom encourages a second flush of summer blooms. Deadheading Hibiscus Flowers Deadheading spent flowers keeps the plant tidy and encourages it to produce more flowers. Common Problems With Hibiscus Hibiscus is not difficult to grow however, there are some common problems to watch out for. Yellow Foliage If you see your plant's leaves turning yellow, it could be that you are subjecting it to sudden changes in weather conditions, not watering correctly, or not fertilizing often enough. Expect a little yellowing during the transitional seasons of spring and fall, but anything extreme merits further investigation. Dropping of Buds Extremes in temperature, insufficient light or humidity, and overwatering or underwatering can cause bud drop.

How long does a Christmas tree last after cutting? Well, that depends on the tree variety, when the tree is cut, and how the tree is maintained through the holidays. While most experts agree that well-maintained Christmas trees last for about three to four weeks after cutting, some tree varieties stay fresh longer than others and environmental factors can cause trees to brown prematurely.1 If you want to make sure your Christmas tree looks fresh and festive through the holidays, here’s exactly when to go Christmas tree shopping—plus tips to help your tree last. How Long Does a Real Christmas Tree Last? Live Christmas trees typically stay fresh for about three to four weeks after cutting, but this varies depending on the tree species. For instance, pines and spruces are some of the most popular Christmas trees; however, these evergreens tend to dry out a bit faster and usually fade about two to three weeks after cutting. Firs and cypress trees, on the other hand, are better at holding onto their needles and often stay fresh for up to five weeks. If you want your Christmas tree to last as long as possible, select a Douglas fir, Fraser fir, or another sturdy species. When Should You Buy Your Real Christmas Tree? While you may be eager to start decking the halls, it’s important not to bring your Christmas tree home too early. After all, real Christmas trees have a limited lifespan after they’re cut, and purchasing a tree too early may leave you with a dry and brittle tree on Christmas day. To avoid this, aim to purchase your Christmas tree about three to four weeks before Christmas, and make sure to select the freshest tree you can find. 8 Tips to Keep It Looking Great All Season No matter what type of Christmas tree you choose or how to decide to decorate it, here are a few simple ways to ensure your tree stays fresh through Christmas and beyond. Buy Locally Big box stores often sell Christmas trees around the holidays; however, these trees are usually transported to the store from out of state and they’re not that fresh. For a fresher option, purchase your Christmas tree from a local tree farm or go to a cut-your-own tree farm for the freshest trees around. If you’re purchasing a pre-cut tree, don’t be afraid to ask when the tree was cut. Inspect the Tree Before settling on the Christmas tree of your dreams, check the tree over carefully for brown branches and brittle needles. If possible, give the tree a strong shake or run your hand along its branches and watch how many needles fall away. Fresh trees should be lush and green and they shouldn’t drop more than a few needles. Trim the Trunk Unless your Christmas tree was cut less than six to eight hours ago, you’ll need to trim some of the trunk away or ask someone at the tree lot to trim your tree for you. After evergreen trees are cut, resinous sap starts to flow and it can seal up the tree’s trunk and keep Christmas trees from absorbing water in their stand. However, trimming just a thin, straight slice off the trunk’s base should open the trunk up and improve water flow. Select a Suitable Stand When selecting a stand for your Christmas tree, choose a sturdy stand with a roomy water reservoir that’s at least 1 gallon in size. The stand should be appropriately sized for your tree and you should never need to whittle the tree’s trunk down to make it fit. Christmas trees need intact trunks to absorb water correctly. Add Water Even if you don’t intend to decorate your tree right away, put your Christmas tree in water as soon as you bring it home and keep the stand filled with water as long as your tree is up. Clean, fresh water is the best choice for Christmas trees, and preservatives and other additives aren’t recommended. In fact, preservatives can actually make trees dry out prematurely.2 Check the Reservoir Regularly Christmas trees can absorb a gallon of water a day and tree stands will dry out even faster if your home is dry or if your pets have a taste for drinking Christmas tree water. To keep your tree lush, check your tree stand daily and refill the stand before it runs dry. If you often forget to water, you may want to invest in an automatic tree watering system. Use LED Lights String lights make Christmas trees sparkle and glow, but heat-producing incandescent lights can dehydrate Christmas tree needles. A better option is LED string lights, which produce less heat and also use less energy. For best results and energy savings, select mini LED lights if you can find them and put your string lights on an automatic timer. Adjust the Temperature Fireplaces, space heaters, and other heating units make the holidays feel cozy, but they also dry out Christmas trees. To avoid prematurely dry needles, position your Christmas tree away from heat sources and direct sun, and consider turning your thermostat down to 70 degrees Fahrenheit or less. Adding a humidifier near your tree may keep it green a little longer too.