Watermelon is a popular melon that can be grown in any garden, as long as you have adequate space and sunlight. One tricky aspect of growing watermelon is knowing when the mature melons are ripe enough. It's important to pick them at the peak of ripeness because, like other melons, they don't continue to ripen off the vine. We're sharing 10 telltale signs to look out for when your watermelon is all ripe and ready to harvest. Weight If the watermelon feels dense and heavy for its size, this can be a good indicator of ripeness. The heavier the melon, the more juice has formed inside. But if you're not sure how heavy a watermelon should be, find two melons of approximately the same size and weigh both in your hands. You can practice this technique in the grocery store, too, to get a feel for how dense and heavy a ripe melon should feel. The Stem Is Mostly Brown If the watermelon stem has turned brown or is more brown than green in color, this is also a potential sign of ripeness. This indicates more energy from the vine has gone into the melon. Dried Out Tendrils The tendril is the curly section of the stem opposite where the watermelon is attached to the vine. Once the tendril turns brown and dry, the watermelon is ready to harvest The Ground Spot Is Yellow The ground spot (also sometimes called the "field spot" or the "belly spot") is usually a small round area on the watermelon where it has been lying in contact with the ground. Once this spot turns yellow, it's a sign the melon has ripened while still on the vine. Don't pick the melon if this spot is still white. If your watermelon doesn't have a ground spot, use some of the other signs to determine its ripeness. Note: this method won't work for miniature watermelons that are grown vertically on a fence or trellis. Smooth But Dull Skin Surface The surface of the watermelon skin should be dull and not shiny. A shiny rind or skin is still too immature to be harvested. The skin should also be free of cuts or bruises. Blossom End Firmness The blossom end of the watermelon is the one opposite the stem. Press gently on this spot; if it's mushy, the melon is overripe. If it's solid, the melon is underripe. If it presses in slightly, the melon is ripe for harvest. Smell A ripe watermelon will have a sweet but not overpowering smell when you sniff the blossom end. If the smell is overly sweet, rich, or cloying, the melon may be overripe. Vibrant Color Your watermelon may have any number of color characteristics depending on the variety; some melons are solid color and some have stripes. Look for a photo online of the variety to get a sense of how deeply colored a ripe one is (often a seed packet will have a photo of a ripe melon also). Wait until the melon reaches a vibrant color before harvesting. Even a watermelon that tends to be a paler green will reach a richer color as it gets ripe, so this is a sign along with the others listed to help you determine ripeness. Uniformity of Shape Different varieties of watermelon have different shapes: some are round, while some or more oval. You want to aim for a uniform shape with no unusual lumps or flat spots. Hollow Interior Sound Thump gently on the surface of the watermelon with your knuckles. A hollow, crisp, and resonating sound is a sign the watermelon is ripe. You will also feel a slight vibration. If the sound is dull and not resonant, the melon is not ready for harvest yet. How to Harvest When you've determined your watermelon is ripe enough to harvest, follow these techniques to do it properly. Cut It Off Cut the melon from the vine with a sharp knife or pruning shears. The watermelon may not pull loose on its own. Clean It Down Gently clean the melon with a soft cloth and mildly soapy water and rinse thoroughly. This is to remove any potentially harmful bacteria (that might be in the soil or left behind by garden wildlife) that might transfer from the skin into the fruit when you carve into it. Store Properly Store your watermelon at a temperature of between 50-60F. If stored at temperatures above 75F, the shelf life is only about 5 days. It's best to eat your watermelon as soon as possible after picking it. If you have any leftover cut portions, place them in the refrigerator.

How much cold can tomatoes tolerate? Tomatoes are notoriously cold-sensitive, so it helps to know what to do with the plants when temperatures drop. Your tomato plants may still have unripened or partially ripened fruit on them when the thermometer plummets to the freezing mark. Learn how to protect your tomato plants when the cold weather moves in. Watch for Signs of Cold Tomatoes Signs of cold damage on tomatoes, especially young plants, are not always visible. Here are signs to look for if you think your tomatoes are too cold: Light tan or gray spots appear on the leaves of young plants in the spring. A healthy plant can outgrow any damage from a brief cold snap. Any darkening of the leaf or stem tissue will later wilt and turn brown. The leaves are curling. Signs of cold damage that show up on the plants later include: A damaged plant will have poorly set fruit. Plant growth will look stunted. Large-fruited tomato varieties will have deep crevices or holes and scarring in the blossom end (catfacing). A spring cold snap can result in distorted, malformed tomatoes when they are just ripening. Dry, brown scars that look like zippers running from the stem to the blossom end of the tomatoes indicate damage. Damaged tomatoes ripen unevenly.1 Start Tomato Seeds at the Right Time Prevent cold damage by starting your tomato plants from seed indoors at the right time. If you start the seeds too early it will still be too cold to move them outdoors. It's best to start tomatoes from seeds six to eight weeks before your area’s last projected frost date. Don’t Expose Young Plants to Cold Temperatures below 60°F can subject highly cold-sensitive tomato seedlings to chilling injury. The damage won't be noticeable right away but the plants will experience stunted growth, poor flowering and fruit set, and catfacing. Wait to plant the tomatoes until nighttime temperatures remain consistently above 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Take your time hardening off the plants before planting them outdoors in your garden or containers. Select Early- or Mid-Season Tomatoes Choose cold-tolerant tomato varieties bred to set fruit in cooler temperatures below 55 degrees Fahrenheit. These varieties typically also mature earlier. Early-season varieties mature in 52 to 70 days and mid-season tomatoes in around 70 to 80 days. There are many different varieties, both hybrid tomatoes and heirloom tomatoes. Popular varieties include Early Girl (52 days) and Better Boy (75 days). Ripen Green Tomatoes Indoors If the weather forecast calls for frost, don't cover the plant. Instead, pick all unripe tomatoes from your plants and ripen them indoors. How to Protect Tomatoes on Cold Nights If there are still green or semi-ripe tomatoes on your plants around the time of your first average fall frost, keep an eye on the weather and consider these two ways to cover and protect your plants. Bubble Wrap If your plants are growing in tomato cages, protect them by wrapping bubble wrap around the entire cage, including the top, and use duct tape to secure it. It's a good time to prune the plant and remove excess foliage before wrapping it up. Remove the bubble wrap the next morning or you run the risk of excessive heat build-up under the plastic that will cook the plant. Sheets and Blankets You can also cover the plants with old sheets or light blankets held in place with sturdy stakes. Loosely tie a strong string around the plant to secure the cover from blowing away. Promptly remove the cover in the morning.

Tomatillos produce green or purple fruits encased in a papery husk. Distant cousins to a tomato with a tangy, slightly acidic flavor, tomatillos are ready to harvest 75-100 days after the seedlings are settled in the garden. The fruit will completely fill the husk and easily pull off the plant. As an indeterminate plant, tomatillos continue to flower and produce fruit throughout the summer until frost. Because of the husk and green color, it can be confusing about when to harvest a tomatillo. Follow our tips for the best harvesting results. 5 Signs Tomatillos Are Ripe and Ready to Pick It's been 3-4 months since you planted. The first tomatillos are usually ready to be harvested 60 to 75 days after the seedlings are placed in the garden or settled into a container for the summer. The fruit is firm. If a tomatillo feels soft, it's likely overripe and less flavorful. It's reached peak color. For example, a purple tomatillo variety will be firm, purple, and no longer green when ready to pick. The husk changes from green to a light brown. The husk will be dry surrounding the tomatillo. The papery husk has not yet split. A fully-split husk means the fruit is overripe. When to Harvest Tomatillos Since tomatillos are indeterminate, they will not flower and set fruit all at once. Harvesting should be done every few days throughout the growing season. The fruit should be firm, the papery husk should be full, and a good hack to follow that tomatillos are ready? The fruit will often drop off the plant before it is fully ripened. These fruits can be gathered and stored in a cool, dry place in the husk until fully firm and ripe. After You've Harvested Every Tomatillo for the Season At the end of the season, the entire plant can be removed from the garden or container and hung upside down in a cool area. Any fruit remaining on the vines will continue to ripen and be good for several months. During the growing season, mature fruit should be placed in a cool location immediately following harvest and can be refrigerated in the husk in a paper bag for up to three weeks. How to Harvest Tomatillos the Right Way Tomatillos are easy to remove from the mother plant by hand or with pruning shears. Harvest by hand by giving the fruit a slight twist from the stem. If it does not yield easily, the fruit isn't mature. Keep a basket or bucket nearby to collect the fruit and place it in the container gently to avoid bruising and cracking. 6 Additional Tomatillo Growing Tips Always plant at least two tomatillo plants. They are not self-fruitful so two plants are needed for cross-pollination by insects. An individual plant may produce 64 to 200 fruits in a season. Tomatillos need about 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week and full sun to maximize production. Tomatillos should be staked or caged to keep the fruit off the ground. Since the plants often drop their fruit before it is fully ripe, provide a bed of straw under each plant to keep the fruit dry and away from the soil until you can collect it. The fruit will be sticky when it is removed from the inedible husk. Wash with mild soap and water before eating or processing the tomatillos.