Basil is a beloved herb and an essential ingredient in every season. But is it possible to keep this plant as a perennial and enjoy its tasty leaves year after year? If you live in USDA hardiness zones 10 and 11, you could count on sweet basil as a perennial herb. For the rest of the country, it is considered an annual and will not come back the next year. However, with some planning, you can have fresh sweet basil at hand, whether you grow it indoors or ensure it reseeds in your garden. Ahead, learn more about growing basil year-round. Is Basil a Perennial? Sweet basil (Ocimum basiiicum L.), is not a perennial except in USDA hardiness zones 10 and 11. The same facts apply to other types of basil like Thai basil and spicy cinnamon basil. How to Make the Most of Your Basil Harvest If you want to keep fresh basil on hand year-round, follow these tips to make the most of your basil harvest. Grow basil indoors. If you live in a cool climate, keep basil available by growing it indoors in pots year-round. Protect the basil plants. To extend an outdoor growing season, protect the plants from late or early frosts by using row covers or individual plant protectors. A glass jar or plastic milk container will protect the plants at night but should be removed the next morning. Stagger plantings. If growing basil from seed, stagger the sowing dates so the seeds germinate at least two weeks apart. If using nursery seedlings, purchase and plant about two weeks apart to extend the season. Remove basil flowers. If flowers form on the basil stems, pinch them off immediately. The energy of the plant should go into producing more and larger leaves, not flowers that become seeds. Harvest frequently.Regular removal of basil leaves will encourage the plant to branch out and sprout more leaves throughout the season. Freeze extra leaves. To freeze fresh basil leaves, blanch them in boiling water for 30 seconds, pat them dry, and freeze flat on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Store the frozen leaves in airtight containers in the freezer. Dry extra leaves. Use a dehydrator, oven, or microwave to dry basil leaves quickly. Once dry, crumble the leaves and store them in airtight containers. How to Grow Basil Year-Round Unless you live in USDA hardiness zones 10 or 11, you will need to either grow basil indoors or do a combination of outdoor gardening and indoor containers. For outdoor plants, plant seedlings in the ground or containers in the spring once the last chance of frost has passed. You can get a head start on harvesting by starting seeds or seedlings indoors while the weather is still cool. To grow indoors, you can start with seed, seedlings, or stem cuttings. Most indoor basil plants produce for about one year if maintained properly. Indoor basil containers need regular watering and plenty of bright light to thrive. A grow light is a great way to keep basil healthy if you don't have a sunny window. How to Grow Basil as a Perennial Annual basil plants in the garden will often self-sow if you don’t pinch back their flowers. You may be lucky enough to find some new seedlings in the garden in the spring if the weather cooperates. However, not all seeds germinate and the new seedlings will also be annuals. So, you can replant or move to a warmer climate if you'd like to be sure basil continues to come back every year. If you are living in a semi-tropical area, basil seeds can be planted in early spring or fall in moist but well-drained soil. The plants are sensitive to frost and the leaves of many varieties will turn black and drop off the plant when temperatures drop below 40°F. To save seeds from basil, leave the flowers on the plant until they die, allowing the seeds to turn brown and dry. Separate the seed from the seed capsules and store them in a cool place in a well-sealed container to replenish your crop.

Companion planting herbs allows plants to deter pests, enhance pollination, and improve soil health, Daniel Powers, founder of The Botanical Institute, says. It also leads to a lusher and a more aromatic garden all season long, “As long as you pay attention to plant families, the size of your chosen herbs, their heat tolerance and sun requirements, and if they are annual or perennial, you can mix and match according to your preferred flavors, garden space and climate,” Tanja Eskildsen, an adaptation gardener and owner of the seed shop, Perennial Vegetables, says. To find out what herbs can be planted together, read on to learn about 14 possible herb combinations. Herbs That Can Be Planted Together Chives and Parsley Some herbs when grown together can boost each other’s flavor. Planting chives near parsley, for example, can improve parsley’s overall taste, as chives offer a more pungent tang to parsley. Powers explains how chives also help repel aphids and beetles which will benefit delicate parsley plants. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Lavender and Rosemary Lavender and rosemary offer splendid blooms and love the same growing conditions: full sun and well-drained soil. So, growing these plants together is ideal because you won't need to worry about having to complete two different growing methods. Meanwhile, the pretty flowers usher in a pop of color to your garden. Basil and Oregano According to Powers, both plants can keep away pests. Basil can help repel mosquitoes, spider mites, and aphids. While oregano also has a strong scent that keeps pests away. “Both plants enjoy similar growing conditions too,” Powers says. Chives and Rosemary Sometimes herbs should be planted together because they have different root depths. This includes chives and rosemary, Powers says. By having differing root depths, both plants won't need to compete for resources like water. Sage and Thyme Thyme is a good companion plant with almost all herbs, but especially sage because both prefer less water. Thyme likes fast-draining soil whereas sage prefers drought-like conditions. Lavender and Sage Both plants prefer dry and sunny growing conditions, which is perfect because not many herbs thrive in hot climates and handle less water, Eskildsen explains. At the same time, lavender can also help repel animals such as deer and rabbits that like to nibble on sage, making these two plants even better for each other. Marjoram and Basil Occasionally, one plant might support the other more. Marjoram, for example, can improve the flavor and growth of basil, Powers says. Marjoram is a herb with a sweet citrus smell and taste, so growing it next to basil can make basil taste a bit sweeter. However, both herbs can create a more aromatic environment in a common vegetable garden, discouraging pests in the process. Thus, either plant can make a great addition to the garden. Cilantro and Dill Cilantro and dill can both attract beneficial insects like pollinators and predatory insects that control pest populations for each other, Powers says. For example, hoverflies are drawn to cilantro, and their larvae eat aphids, a common antagonist in any healthy garden. Parsley and Chervil Parsley, a flowering herb, and chervil, a member of the parsley family, are good garden companions because they like similar growing conditions. “Parsley can help enhance chervil’s growth and flavor, as they enjoy similar light and water conditions,” Powers says. Thyme and Rosemary Thyme and rosemary, both Mediterranean plants, thrive in dry, well-drained soil. Being planted together can help create a microclimate that suits their needs, Powers says. Not to mention, thyme repels cabbage worms and other pests of common garden plants. Dill and Chives Chives, like onions, have a pungent smell and taste, which repels pests like aphids, a common garden bug. Meanwhile, dill’s yellow flowers will draw in pollinators like butterflies and bees to your garden. Together, these herbs make a great team repelling and attracting different insects to your garden. Tarragon and Oregano Tarragon and oregano are both herbs with dainty flowers that offer lots of aroma. While both are indeed aesthetically pleasing, these two plants also prefer the same sun exposure and soil conditions, making them great companion plants in the garden. “These two plants can also benefit from each other’s presence by repelling a variety of pests due to their strong scents,” Powers says. Garlic and Rosemary Rosemary strengthens garlic’s flavor. Not to mention, both herbs also have a strong scent that deters many garden pests. These herbs also require the same soil conditions, so there's no need to maintain the plants in different flower beds. Since garlic loves sunshine and less water, rosemary makes for a great companion plant because it can quickly adapt and thrive. Marjoram and Chives Approximating the smell and appearance of green onions, chives have smaller flowers and leaves. This means they need less space in the garden while their strong odor repels many pests from the rest of your garden plants. Meanwhile, the citrus flavor of marjoram subtly sweetens the chives’ flavor. What Herbs Shouldn’t Be Planted Together Mint and most garden plants: According to Powers, mint can be incredibly invasive and can quickly overtake neighboring plants, robbing them of space, nutrients, and water. If you choose to grow mint, keep it in a separate container. Fennel and most herbs: Fennel is unfriendly to most other plants because it secretes a substance that can inhibit the growth of other plants around it, Powers says. It’s best to plant this herb away from others. Cilantro and Tarragon: These herbs prefer different growing conditions. For example, cilantro likes cooler temperatures and can flower quickly in warmer weather, while tarragon thrives in warm, dry conditions, Powers says. Planting these herbs together can make it difficult to keep each herb happy. Basil and Sage: These plants prefer different soil conditions. Basil loves moist soil and more frequent watering, while sage prefers well-drained, drier soil. Powers explains. Growing these together makes it so neither receives its optimal growing conditions. Peppermint and Parsley: Peppermint, like mint, tends to take over with a sprawling root system. This is why peppermint can overwhelm parsley, a single-root plant. Lemon balm and most garden plants: According to Eskildsen, lemon balm is an aggressive grower and will dominate a space. Additional Tips for a Thriving Herb Garden Know the Final Size of Your Herbs Some herbs grow into tall bushes and others stay low to the ground, Eskildsen says. Eskildsen recommends planting your tallest herbs in the background and the smaller ones in front or around it. This will help make sure each plant has enough light and make harvesting a lot easier. Identify If It's an Annual or Perennial “Some herbs you only need to plant once and others you plant every season,” Eskildsen says. To help organize your herb garden, it’s good to know if your herbs will grow in the same spot for many years or only one season, meaning it will have to be switched out for another herb eventually. Mix Shade and Sun-Loving Plants Appropriately Eskildsen explains how sun-loving and shade-tolerant plants grow well together as long as you plant the shade-tolerant plants under a taller sun-loving plant. “The foliage of the taller herb will gently shade the herb underneath allowing you maximum use of garden space," Eskildsen says.

Tomato plants (Solanum lycopersicum) are beloved by gardeners, with over 10,000 possible types to grow.1 These leafy annuals grow juicy, flavorful fruits in shades of red, yellow, orange, purple, pink, brown, and green. Plant tomatoes in late spring or early summer once all danger of frost has passed. Depending on the variety, tomatoes can be ready to harvest anywhere from 42 to 110 days from germination. Here's a guide for how to grow tomato plants, including finding the best planting location, care requirements, and harvesting. How to Plant Tomatoes When to Plant Plant tomato seedlings outdoors after all danger of frost has passed and night temperatures are consistently above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Store-bought and home-grown seedlings need to be hardened off before planting outdoors. When the weather is warm enough, begin hardening off the seedlings by bringing them outdoors in the shade for a few hours each day, gradually increasing how much light they receive and their time outdoors. Once night temperatures are consistently above 50 degrees, you can transplant tomato seedlings outdoors. Where to Plant Choose a well-drained planting site with loamy soil and eight hours of direct sunlight daily. Practice crop rotation: wait three years before planting tomatoes in a bed where you've grown other crops in the nightshade family (tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes, peppers, and tomatillos) to help keep plants disease-free. Water tomato plants well before planting. How to Plant Plant tomatoes 18 to 24 inches apart, three to four feet between rows, for proper airflow.2 Indeterminate varieties need more space than determinate varieties because they don't stop growing until frost kills the plant. Check seed packets and seedling tags for spacing guidelines for your plant varieties. To transplant tomato seedlings, dig a planting hole deep enough so the soil line is below the bottom-most healthy leaves. Planting deeply means digging the planting hole deep enough that 2/3 of the main stem is buried underground. Remove a few sets of the bottom leaves to create a longer stem. Only 1/3 of the plant should be visible above ground. The stem will develop roots from any part buried in the soil, which leads to extra-strong plants. A bigger root system means your plants can absorb more water and nutrients, resulting in a healthier plant that is less susceptible to drought, disease, and attack by tomato pests. How to Start Seeds Indoors Start tomatoes from seed indoors six to eight weeks before your region's first frost date. Fill seed trays with soilless seed starting mix and moisten the soil well. Plant tomato seeds a quarter-inch deep and cover them with soil. Put the trays in a warm place under a grow light. When the seedlings are two to three inches tall, pot them up into three-inch pots, burying them up to the lowest leaves. How to Grow Tomato Plants in Pots Because they grow only to a specific size, determinate tomatoes (sometimes called bush tomatoes) are ideal for container planting, although some indeterminate types are bred for pot planting. Use a high-quality soilless potting mix that's light and drains well while holding onto necessary moisture. Mix in organic compost before planting to add fertility. Use 14- to 20-inch pots with ample drainage holes; the larger, the better. Tomatoes planted in containers generally benefit from cages or other supports. Keep them well-watered because container plants dry out more quickly in hot weather than in-ground plants. Tomato Plant Care Light Tomatoes require eight hours or more of direct sunlight daily to grow, flower, and fruit. In warmer regions like the southern United States, tomatoes might benefit from afternoon shade during the hottest times. Soil Plant tomatoes in a site with rich, well-drained soil. Choose a spot with soil that is slightly acidic loam or sandy loam. Work organic matter into the soil in the autumn or a few weeks before you plan to plant. Water Water tomato plants regularly to ensure they receive at least one inch per week. Consistent watering will help produce the best-quality fruit. Apply water directly to the soil at the plant's root zone rather than sprinkling water overhead and wetting the foliage. Keeping the foliage dry will reduce the chance of fungal diseases. Mulching with organic material like hay, straw, or grass clippings not treated with pesticides can help retain soil moisture.3 Temperature and Humidity Tomatoes can grow well at various humidity levels but need warm temperatures to survive and thrive. Temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit can stunt growth and damage the plant's ability to produce flowers and fruit. Daytime temperatures above 85 degrees can cause blossom drop4, but you can help plants withstand the heat by mulching the soil around plants and keeping them well watered. Fertilizer Tomato plants require nutrient-rich soil to grow and produce healthy fruit. To ensure your tomato plants receive the nutrients they need, a soil test can help you determine the soil contents, lacking nutrients, and the type of fertilizer your soil needs for good tomato growth. If the soil is rich and fertile or has enough organic matter or compost before planting, you might not need to apply additional fertilizer throughout the growing season.3 However, tomato plants usually benefit from fertilizer application at several different points in their growth cycle. To encourage more flowering and fruiting rather than foliage growth, choose a fertilizer that's higher in phosphorous and lower in nitrogen.5 Pollination Tomatoes are self-fertile, meaning you don't need more than one plant for pollination. Movement from the wind is usually adequate to ensure pollination. However, adding a few summer-blooming annuals to the vegetable beds is ideal to attract pollinators such as bees and other insects. In high tunnels or greenhouses, growers use strategies like tapping tomato cages or stakes to help move pollen from the male to the female parts of the flower.6 However, a few different issues can cause pollination issues. High daytime temperatures (over 90 degrees F) and low night temperatures (under 50 degrees F) can inhibit pollination and cause blooms to drop before they can set fruit. Insufficient water can also cause issues with flowering and pollination, and so can applying fertilizer that is too high in nitrogen, which causes plants to put energy toward foliage growth instead of flowering and fruiting.7 Types of Tomato Plants Tomatoes are treasured for their taste and nutritional benefits, which include phytochemicals and nutrients like lycopene, potassium, iron, folate, vitamin C, and other antioxidants.8 There are thousands of tomato varieties, including lower classifications, from heirlooms to hybrids.1 Tomato plant growth habits are also divided into two main categories: determinate and indeterminate. Determinate Tomato Plants Determinate tomatoes mature relatively early, growing to a mature size of three to four feet tall. All fruit on the plant ripens within roughly two weeks, and then plants die back. Because determinate tomato plants are usually compact, they're great for container growing and don't require heavy staking as indeterminate tomatoes do. Determinate tomatoes are often used for sauce and canning. Other determinate types are: Roma: This plum tomato produces heavy yields of medium, rich red, meaty fruit. Celebrity (Solanum lycopersicum 'Celebrity'): Determinate celebrity tomatoes are disease-resistant and prolific, with the added bonus that they fruit from when plants reach their mature size until frost. But unlike indeterminate tomatoes, they don't keep growing larger as the season progresses. Rutgers: This heirloom variety, in production since 1934, produces bright red fruit with heavy walls and great disease resistance. It ripens evenly, inside and out, making it an easy-care cultivar that is equally delicious, fresh, cooked, or preserved. Marglobe: This variety is adaptable to various soils and produces thick-walled fruit. It is very good to eat fresh or canned. Indeterminate Tomato Plants Indeterminate tomatoes include most cherry tomato varieties, heirloom tomatoes, and beefsteak tomatoes. Instead of growth stopping once fruit sets, indeterminate tomatoes will keep growing and fruiting until the first fall frost kills the plant. Because they keep growing, they require sturdy staking and regular pruning. They're also better suited to in-ground planting. Here are a few popular varieties: Better Boy (Solanum lycopersicum 'Better Boy'): This popular indeterminate slicing tomato offers disease resistance, relatively early harvest, and sizeable one-pound fruits. Yellow Pear (Solanum lycopersicum 'Yellow Pear'): Known for its clusters of sweet, pear-shaped yellow tomatoes, this indeterminate variety dates back to the early 19th century. Green Zebra (Solanum lycopersicum' Green Zebra'): A cross between four different heirloom tomatoes, this indeterminate "heirloom hybrid" is prized for its bright flavor and chartreuse color. Pink Brandywine (Solanum lycopersicum 'Brandywine'): This indeterminate, easy-to-grow heirloom offers hefty, flavorful fruits in a beautiful blush shade. Varieties of Tomatoes: Early Season, Mid-Season, and Late-Season Another factor to consider when choosing tomato varieties is how long it takes for fruits to mature and be ready to harvest. Early-season varieties will grow ripe, ready-to-harvest fruit in 42 to 70 days. Mid-season tomatoes mature in around 70 to 80 days, while late-season varieties take 80 to 110 days to mature. Pruning Pruning tomatoes can offer several benefits, such as earlier harvests, disease resistance, and larger fruits. It's recommended to pinch or prune away the suckers—shoots that grow out of the axils where leaves meet stems—in indeterminate tomato varieties. This allows plants to direct energy towards fruiting rather than excess leaf growth and keeps plants tidier and generally easier to maintain. While determinate varieties are not always pruned, plants can develop stronger stems if you remove suckers that grow below the lowest flower.5 Harvesting Tomatoes Harvest tomatoes when fruits have fully colored, with a firm yet supple texture and healthy size for their variety. Ripe tomatoes will have smooth, shiny skin. Use scissors or pruners to cut stems when harvesting because pulling fruits off the vine can damage the plant. When a frost is forecast, remove all fruit from in-ground plants. Propagating Tomato Plants You can use the suckers you remove from your plants to propagate new plants.9 Desuckering and Rooting Tomatoes. Clemson Cooperative Extension. Here's how: Pinch or prune off a good-sized sucker from a mature tomato plant. Remove the leaves on the lower half of the sucker stem. Poke a hole in the soil nearby, leaving adequate space between plantings. Plant the sucker in the hole. Roots will grow along the portion of the sucker's stem that is below the soil line. When you see new growth, you'll know the sucker has rooted. You can leave it in place or dig it up and relocate it to another area of your garden. Care for the plant as you would any tomato plant. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Tomatoes can fall prey to diseases and garden pests. Plant disease-resistant varieties and prevent issues with crop rotation, applying water to the soil and root zone rather than wetting the foliage with overhead watering, cutting away lower branches that might come into contact with soil, pruning suckers, and giving plants adequate space to enable airflow. Tomato diseases can be fatal if you don't identify, treat, and try to prevent them from occurring. Treat insects like aphids by spraying them off with water or treating plants with neem or horticultural oil. Some pests, like tomato hornworms, must be picked off by hand.