Whether or not you should grow herbs in the ground or in pots depends on your climate and soil. Containers offer the benefit of flexibility, allowing you to customize your soil and herbs' location. Test and understand your soil and the conditions herbs prefer before planting anything in the ground. As we all eye the rising temperatures and grocery store prices, growing your own herbs becomes even more appealing. It's affordable, it's fun, and you get a nonstop supply of herbs (at least for a few months). But is it better to grow herbs in pots or in the ground? We asked a pro gardener to find out the best way to do it for maximum success. Is It Better to Grow Herbs in Pots or in Ground? Where you should grow herbs depends on the answer to two questions, according to John LoRusso, master gardener and master gardener coordinator for Windham County, CT. He suggests asking yourself what kind of soil are you growing plants in and what kind of climate do you live in. Herbs require excellent drainage and moist (but not wet) soil. If your soils are heavy, it's better to plant your herbs in containers so you can have a lighter soil mix. If you have a very wet climate, there's no way to ease drainage in the ground. If you have a very dry climate, you'll be watering herbs in containers all the time. Containers also have the benefit of flexibility. "Containers also offer the option of being able to be placed at table height for ease of harvest. They can also be moved indoors at the end of the season to extend the harvest," LoRusso says. He recommends unglazed clay pots, which, thanks to their porous material, can be placed in the ground if you so choose and still absorb water and nutrients. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! How to Decide Where to Grow Herbs In very wet climates and backyards with heavy or acidic soil, LoRusso recommends growing herbs in pots. (Most herbs prefer a pH of 6 to 7, so soil that's too acidic also won't treat your herbs well.) With pots, you can get exactly the right soil mix for the type of herbs you're growing, whether you need a lighter mix or one with more organic matter. LoRusso also suggests considering the pots you have on hand and your desired supply of herbs. "The plants are constrained by the pot, and does the gardener have enough pots for all the herbs they want to grow—is there ever enough basil?" LoRusso says. You should also take into account your own care habits. Herbs shouldn't be allowed to dry out and wilt, and the soil in containers will dry out more frequently than the soil in the ground. Are you committed to watering your herbs on a perhaps daily basis? Herbs That Grow Best in the Ground The herbs that grow best in ground will depend on your climate. In areas where soil is richer, LoRusso points to basil, dill, parsley, fennel, and chevril. Those herbs can handle higher moisture levels. In areas with sandier soils, lavenders, thyme, and rosemary will do well. If you don't have the appropriate soil for the herb you want to grow, you should grow them in pots. Herbs That Grow Best in Pots Any herb your yard doesn't have the appropriate soil for should be grown in a pot. If you haven't grown plants in your yard's soil before and don't feel confident assessing if it's rich or sandy, a pot is the easy way to go. LoRusso also recommends pots for herbs that love to spread, like mint and spearmint, which if allowed to grow freely will extend throughout (and beyond) your garden bed.

Mint has a reputation for being one of the most enthusiastic growers in the garden. It spreads easily, often taking over garden beds and treading into invasive territory. But that eager-growing habit also means that it's the perfect herb to try out your propagation skills. You can easily propagate mint, growing new plants to share with friends and family. And, if you're the one hoping for a new mint plant without a trip to the nursery, it shouldn't be hard to find a cutting. "If you ask any gardener, it's likely they have way too much mint in their garden and they'd be happy to share with you," says Ren Elizabeth, gardener and blogger at Eco Friendly Homestead. Here's how to propagate mint to grow new plants. Mint is incredibly easy to propagate in just a few quick steps: Select a sprig of mint that looks lush and healthy. Choose a sprig with vibrant green leaves, particularly at the top. Cut the sprig from the plant using clean, sharp scissors, carefully removing the cutting from just below a leaf node. This is the place where leaves connect to the stem. Remove all leaves from the bottom third of the stem, leaving only those healthy looking leaves at the top of the cutting If you want to give your mint cutting an extra boost, Elizabeth says, "you can add in some rooting hormone, but it's not a necessary step." If you choose to do this, dip the stem in rooting hormone before moving on to the next step. Submerge the cutting in a small jar of fresh water. Make sure none of the leaves are touching the water. You may need to use a pair of popsicle sticks to prop the leaves up out of the water. Place the jar in a sunny window. Elizabeth explains that within a few short weeks, you should start to see small root hairs forming at the base of the stem. These will quickly grow, indicating your mint is ready to start its own chapter as a new plant. How to Plant Rooted Mint Cuttings Within a few weeks, you'll notice that the root growth on your mint has reached a point where it appears to be viable to grow on its own. "When the root hairs are around one inch in length, you can plant your mint cutting up to the top leaves in a container," Elizabeth says. Make sure you use fresh potting soil that is adequately moist. Keep the new plants in indirect sunlight for the first several weeks to let them adjust to their new home. Continue to water the mint regularly so they soil stays consistently moist. Elizabeth's biggest tip, however, isn't anything to do with enabling the mint to thrive—it generally does that on its own. Rather, she has a warning to prevent your new plant from taking over your garden. "As someone who has made the mistake of planting mint directly into my garden soil, please do not do this unless you would like the mint to take over your garden for all of eternity," Elizabeth says.

One of thirteen junipers native to North America, the Skyrocket Juniper (Juniperus scopulorum) is indigenous to the western United States and Canada. A slow-growing conifer in the cypress family, it is typically narrow and pyramidal in form, growing to 30-40 feet tall. The reddish-brown bark sheds in thin strips and the foliage is silvery-blue to dark green and lies flat against the branches. As additional interest, the cones are waxy blue and berry-like and are enjoyed by birds and small mammals. Commonly called the Rocky Mountain Juniper, the tree prefers full sun, moist, well-drained soils and does well in dry, sandy soil. It is drought, salt spray, erosion, dry soil, and air pollution tolerant. It does not thrive in wet soils, high humidity, or high night temperatures. Skyrocket Juniper Care Once established, a Skyrocket juniper requires very little care. It grows best in full sun in well-draining, dry soils. Since it is slow-growing, pruning is not required other than removing damaged or broken branches. The junipers make an excellent hedge or screen and tolerate most conditions except soggy soils and excessively heavy ice storms. When planting as a hedge, space the trees at least 24 inches apart to allow for growth while maintaining full privacy coverage. If planted in a well-chosen location, Skyrocket juniper has no serious threats from diseases or insect pests. If you desire heavy cone production, plant male and female specimens near each other. Light While some cultivars can withstand partial shade, the trees will thrive when planted in full sun or in a location with 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day. Soil This tree is adaptable to loam, rocky, sandy, and even clay soils, the area must be well-draining. Soggy soils1 will result in root rot and stunted growth. It can tolerate periods of drought, salt spray, and erosion. The soil pH should be neutral - not too acidic or alkaline. Water Once established, the trees seldom require supplemental watering. They prefer dry roots. Newly planted trees should be watered deeply once a week or so for several months to establish deep roots and then watered sparingly. The trees do not fare well in areas with wet winters and can develop root rot. Temperature and Humidity Skyrocket junipers prefer cooler climates and low humidity. In rainy areas, they may be susceptible to blights which causes the dieback of the stem tips. Because they prefer low-humidity areas, the trees are susceptible to injury or death from fires due to their thin, stringy bark and the volatile oils contained in the branches. Fertilizer It is usually unnecessary to fertilize this tree unless you have a soil deficiency. However, if you do feed the tree, the juniper will benefit from a slow-release fertilizer feeding in early spring and once again during the growing season. Fertilizers that are high in nitrogen (16-4-8 NPK) will promote lush green growth. Do not feed late in the growing season. Types of Skyrocket Juniper There are numerous Juniperus scopulorum cultivars with slightly different foliage and growth patterns. Juniperus scopulorum 'Blue Creeper': Blue foliage, low-growing, mounding shape. Juniperus scopulorum ''Blue Arrow': Narrow, upright growth with blue-green foliage. Juniperus scopulorum 'Wichita Blue': Compact, conical shape with blue to blue-gray foliage, male plant. Juniperus scopulorum 'Table Top': Low-growing, flat-topped juniper with silvery-blue foliage, female plant. Juniperus scopulorum 'Snow Flurries': Narrow small tree, columnar to fastigiate with blue foliage showcasing creamy white spots. Juniperus scopulorum 'Pathfinder': Broader, pyramidical shape with blue-green foliage in flat spray branches. Juniperus scopulorum 'Gray Gleam': Slow-growing, dense, columnar tree with silver-gray foliage. Juniperus scopulorum 'Cologreen': Upright, narrow form with bright green foliage. Juniperus scopulorum 'Blue Heaven': Small, conical tree with light blue foliage. Pruning The skyrocket juniper is slow-growing and does not require pruning unless you wish to keep the trees short. If a shorter tree is desired, select one of the cultivars that do not grow so tall. The only pruning that is required is to remove any broken or storm-damaged limbs. Propagating Skyrocket Juniper Select young, healthy, vigorous, semi-hardwood cuttings in mid to late summer. Remove the lower leaves, then coat the cut end with a rooting hormone. Place the cutting in a mixture of perlite and coarse sand, and keep the cutting moist and warm until roots develop. After 8 to 10 weeks, you can transplant the cutting into a larger pot filled with a loam and sand mix. Allow the juniper to develop a hardy root system throughout the fall and winter. Protect the plant from excessive moisture and harsh winds. Transplant to a permanent location in the spring. How to Grow Skyrocket Juniper From Seed Growing a skyrocket juniper from seed requires time, patience, and multiple steps. If the seeds are collected late in the season and appear dry, soak the seeds for two days in room-temperature water. Prepare a mixture of equal parts horticultural sand and peat-free compost to fill each small 2-inch pot. Make a small hole in the mixture and add a seed, covering it lightly with the mixture. Place the pot in a shady location outdoors for at least six months and water when the mixture feels completely dry to the touch. Check regularly after a few months and when a seedling appears, move to a larger pot containing a similar mixture. Water the seedlings (but don't keep the soil soggy) and leave them in a cool, shady spot until multiple leaves appear. When the roots have filled the pots, transplant the young trees into one-gallon pots, taking care not to disturb the roots too much. When the roots have filled the larger pots, dig a hole in a sunny spot big enough to accommodate the root ball in well-draining soil. Carefully ease the plant out of the pot and place it carefully in the hole. Make sure the stem is at the same depth as it was in the pot, and firm backfill the hole with soil. Water deeply for several months until the roots are firmly established. Overwintering There are no special requirements for overwintering Skyrocket junipers unless a heavy ice storm is predicted. Use a protective cover to prevent branches from snapping under the weight of the ice. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Skyrocket junipers do not have any severe threats from pests or plant diseases. In rainy seasons, they may be susceptible to blights which causes the dieback of the stem tips. Phomopsis twig blight may occur as well as Cedar-apple rust and other rust diseases. In poorly drained soils, root rot can occur. Aphids, bagworms, scale, and spider mites are potential insect pests but seldom kill the tree. Common Problems With Skyrocket Juniper The most common complaint about this easy-to-care-for tree is its slow growth pattern. It can take up to 10 years for the tree to reach its mature height.