Anticipation is likely one of the reasons it seems to take forever for your tomatoes to turn red. Dozens of varieties exist and tomatoes are fairly easy to grow, but it's the fresh, juicy taste and texture that make tomatoes the most popular crop grown in home gardens across the United States.1 Waiting for them to ripen to perfect red can seem endless, but besides anticipation there are several non emotion-based reasons for why your tomatoes are still green. Here are some of the most common reasons why your tomatoes aren't turning red, plus what you can do to speed up the ripening process. Temperature Too Hot or Too Cold Temperature is one of the bigger factors for ripening tomatoes and a few degrees too hot or too cold puts the process on hold or even stops ripening altogether. The ideal temperature tomatoes need to acquire their red color is 68 to 77 degrees F.2 At 85 degrees, the production of lycopene ceases leaving large green fruits on the vine until temperatures lower to more better levels. Temperatures consistently below 60 degrees F. also inhibit ripening. Fruits that are fully mature and have a slight blush can be harvested and brought indoors to finish ripening. They do not need to sit in a sunny window as long as the correct temperature is provided. Too Much Direct Sunlight Even though it might seem counterintuitive, too much sun exposure can slow down ripening. The heat is more important than light for ripening, and too much bright, hot, direct sunlight can raise temperatures to levels that inhibit lycopene production. Pruning leaves away from mature tomatoes to give them more sun exposure can also cause sunscald and cracking. Too Much Water Tomato plants need 1 to 2 inches of water per week when vines are actively growing and producing fruit. But once fruits reach their mature size, ripening occurs more quickly if irrigation is reduced or even stopped completely. Less water stresses the tomato plant and sends it into survival mode. The plant will focus energy into producing viable seed, which helps accelerate ripening. Insufficient Nutrients Tomatoes require a lot of nutrients and micronutrients throughout the growing season. Phosphorous and potassium are particularly important for the production and synthesis of lycopene in the fruits. Insufficient amounts can cause slow or uneven ripening. When the first small fruits appear on the plant, feed with a fertilizer higher in phosphorous such as and NPK 5-10-5. Too Much Nitrogen Tomato plants benefit from an application of balanced fertilizer such as an NPK 10-10-10 early in the season. This supports vine and foliage growth and encourages good root development and flower production. Once mature fruits are on the vine, fertilizing with a product that contains too much nitrogen can take away from ripening by refocusing energy on foliage growth. Once green fruits have reached a fully mature size, withhold fertilizer and allow the natural processes of ripening to take place in the fruit. Lack of Pruning Limiting the number of vines on a plant by removing early suckers is another way to focus energy into the production and ripening of fruit. Not every vine produces fruit and plants with unproductive vines or vines overloaded with fruit will struggle. This is especially true for determinate type tomato plants that produce many fruits all at the same time. Early pruning of your tomato plants results in higher quality fruit that ripens more easily and quickly. It's Not Supposed to Be Red It's important to understand, starting out, what your tomato type will look like when fully ripe. Many varieties ripen to different shades of red or may be orange, pink, purple and even striped. If you're waiting for your tomato to turn red, make sure that's the color it's supposed to be when it's ready to pick. Check your seed package for how many days to harvest for the tomato variety you've chosen. Some varieties need more or less growing time and may not work as well in your climate.

The lupine flower, also known as lupin or bluebonnet, looks like a wildflower, but it is a fast-growing legume in the pea family that has a tall, showy spire of colorful blooms that are typically purple. Flowers bloom from spring through midsummer and, while individual lupine plants do not spread, the flower pods each disperse up to a dozen seeds. Lupine is an annual and short-lived perennial flower with a lifespan of two to five years. This low-maintenance plant grows best in northern climates with cooler summers and requires a daily six hours of full sunlight, weekly watering, and soil on the acidic side. These vividly colored flowers are also deer-resistant and beneficial to pollinators like bees and butterflies. The plant is toxic to humans and animals. Lupine Care Here are the main care requirements for growing lupine: Plant lupines during cooler early spring or fall temperatures. Use loose, sandy soil for lupines, and avoid planting this flower in clay soil unless it is amended. Offer lupines more sun and minimum shade. Space smaller lupines a foot apart and larger ones two to three feet apart. Stake taller lupine varieties using grow-through grid stakes to prevent them from flopping over. Water lupine during periods of dry weather. Use an acidifying, phosphorous-heavy fertilizer when planting lupine. Deadhead lupine to encourage continuous flowering. Planting To grow lupine seedlings, dig holes 1 to 1 1/2 feet deep and start small plants about 1 foot apart, while larger plants should be grown two to three feet apart. Ideally, lupine plants are planted outdoors in cooler temperatures, either early spring or fall. Add mulch but avoid fertilizer. Light Lupines prefer full sun, at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days, to grow and bloom their best. They can grow in partial shade, but their flowering will diminish. However, some afternoon shade is ideal in hot climates. Soil These flowers thrive in organically rich soil or loose, sandy soil with sharp drainage. They prefer a neutral to slightly acidic soil pH, though they also can grow in very acidic soil conditions. Lupines will typically not survive in heavy clay soil unless the dirt is loosened a few inches down and heavily amended with compost. Water While lupines don't like soggy soil, which can cause root rot, they prefer regular watering. Water at least weekly if you haven't gotten rainfall to prevent the soil from drying out. Temperature and Humidity Lupines like fairly cool summers and don't bloom well in the hot, humid climates of the southern part of the United States. Place a light layer of mulch around the lupines to retain soil moisture and keep the roots cool in hot areas. Fertilizer Lupines generally don't require fertilizer, and too much fertilizer can encourage excess foliage growth rather than blooms.4 However, an acidifying fertilizer with more phosphorous than nitrogen is useful for lowering the soil pH of alkaline soils. These fertilizers may be labeled as "bloom boosters."5 Lupine already fixes the nitrogen in the soil, so it doesn't require more. Types of Lupine The types of lupine grown in gardens are generally hybrid crosses (Lupinus × hybrida) of various native species bred to maximize flower color and vigor. Lupinus is an enormous genus of flowering plants, comprising hundreds of species. The colorful hybrid lupines most popular for gardens were primarily derived from Lupinus polyphyllus (also called large-leaved lupine), a North American native, crossed with various other species, such as Lupinus arboreus. Although rainbow hybrid lupine seed mixes are the most popular commercially available lupine, the original blue strain is the hardiest. There are several lupine varieties available that vary in appearance, including: Russell mixed colors: Bred in 1937 and naturalized in many areas, this hybrid rainbow and bicolor mixture is the foundation for all new cultivars. Gallery series: Dense flower spikes on this compact plant grow no more than 2 feet tall. For example, 'Gallery White' boasts snowy white flower spikes. 'Dwarf Lulu': These plants grow about 2 feet tall in a rainbow of hues and feature unusually dense racemes. 'Minarette': This dwarf 18-inch variety of lupine looks stunning in drifts along a border's edge or in containers. Lupinus albus (white lupine): This taller lupine can grow up to 4 feet tall with white blossoms. Lupinus albifrons (silver lupine): This taller lupine grows between 3 to 5 feet tall with silver-green leaves topped with pale blue to purple flowers. Lupinus angustifolius (blue lupine): Also called narrowleaf lupine, this taller plant grows to 5 feet tall and has blue blooms. It is used more for agricultural use than for gardens. Propagating Lupines Because lupines sprout so easily from seed, this is the normal method for growing them, though blooming takes longer. Lupines can also be propagated by carefully taking basal cuttings from established plants in the spring and simply replanting them. Basal propagation ensures an ongoing stock of the plants, and they may bloom sooner than seeds. Take these steps: Propagate lupine cuttings in the early spring before the plant has begun to actively grow and leaf out. Use a sanitized sharp knife to sever a segment of the crown and roots from the parent plant. Transplant the new segment to a new location in the ground. Propagate lupine every two to three years, as they are short-lived plants. How to Grow Lupine From Seed Lupines are easy perennials to grow from seeds but can take two years to bloom this way. Buy lupine seeds or harvest the small round tan or green seeds from the plant's pods in the fall. Start lupines from seed in the early to late spring or late fall for the following spring season. Take these steps: Before sowing in the ground, nick the tough seed coat or soak it in water overnight to ensure a better germination rate. Plant the seeds about 1/4 inch deep outdoors in a permanent area that receives full sun. Lupines do not transplant easily due to their long taproots. Expect germination in 14 to 30 days. Potting and Repotting Lupine Plant lupine in pots in the springtime. Choose a large, deep, and heavy container to comfortably handle the plant's long taproots and top-heavy, upright growth. Use well-draining soil, space lupine plants a minimum of a foot apart, and put the container in full sun. Cut the plant back and shelter the pot over the winter to help lupines survive. Overwintering During the winter, lupines die back to the ground and go dormant. Cut the lupine stalks down to the ground, leaving 1 to 2 inches above ground. Mulch to protect the below-ground plant from freezing temperatures as it overwinters. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Lupine is vulnerable to aphids are common in spring.6 Control pests with horticultural oils or pesticides. Lupine is susceptible to lupine anthracnose which causes leaf blight and brown spots.7 Remove and destroy affected plants and avoid using the area to grow lupines for several years so the spores have time to die off. Powdery mildew from poor air circulation can impact lupines with white, powdery patches on foliage.8 Cut away the foliage and wait for regrowth or treat it with organic methods. How to Get Lupine to Bloom Bloom Months Lupine blooms from late spring into July. If they do rebloom after their first flush, they may produce smaller flowers. What Do Lupine Flowers Look and Smell Like? Hybrid lupines have a telltale look of tall, showy spires of flowers that can come in a multitude of colors. The foliage resembles palm leaves with seven to 10 leaflet segments each. Lupines have sweet scents but various types smell different. How to Encourage More Blooms Lupines planted in deep shade typically won't flower. Remedy this by trimming back neighboring shrubs and trees for more sun. A second bloom in the summer may occur but with smaller flowers. Cut back in spring after the first flowering to encourage summer blooms. What to Do With Lupine After It Blooms Deadheading lupine after it blooms and fades may result in a second flush. By the fall, cut the plants down to the ground. Common Problems With Lupine Lupine is easy to grow but there may be a couple of problems. Here's what to look for. Not Blooming Your lupines may not be blossoming because they are not getting enough sunlight, the flowers are underwatered, there's a pest infestation, or the soil does not have enough phosphorous in it. Brown Leaf Tips Lupines are susceptible to a fungus called lupine anthracnose. The leaf tips of younger lupine plants turn brown and bend. As the disease develops, more brown spots and cankers appear on the leaves. Remove and discard all infected plants. To protect surrounding plants from the fungus, use a fungicide for outdoor ornamental plants or one for Colletotrichum diseases. Colletotrichum gloeosporioides cause Lupine anthracnose.

The Macadamia genus has four different species of macadamia trees, two of which are mostly used for nut production. Native to Australia, this sub-tropical evergreen tree has a very limited range in the continental United States. While known for its delicious fruit, the tree is notoriously stingy when producing nuts, so unless you are prepared to plant multiple trees to cross-pollinate or take steps to ramp up production, the tree might be more suited as an ornamental or shade tree than a crop tree. Macadamia Tree Care No matter your tree's desired purpose, you will want to follow a certain set of guidelines to give your tree the best chance to thrive. Here is a brief list of key points to keep your macadamia tree happy and healthy: Provide your tree with full sun. Plant in regions with moist to wet conditions with at least 50 inches of rain annually. If looking to use it for nut production, choose a grafted plant to shorten the time to maturity. Amend your soil to reach a pH level of 5.5-6.5. Fertilize annually with low nitrogen, low phosphorus, and high potassium fertilizer once mature. Light When planting your macadamia tree, sun exposure is one of the biggest conditions to consider when choosing where to plant your tree. If planted in a spot that receives too little sun, this already slow-growing tree will suffer and not produce a tremendous amount of foliage. Later, when mature, produce fewer flowers and less fruit. To ensure you get the best growth out of your tree, plant it in a location that gets full sun. Soil While the macadamia is somewhat adaptable, a few things will help guarantee success when growing this relatively easy-to-maintain tropical evergreen. Test the acidity of your soil will ensure that you can amend the soil and fix its pH to achieve the macadamia's desired pH of 5.5-6.5. Once you know the soil's pH, look at the soil's moisture content, macadamia prefers wet to moist soil that is well draining. If the soil in the area you plan to plant is too moist, mix in plenty of perlite. Ultimately the ideal soil for your tree should be rich, moist, and well-draining. Water Macadamia trees are native to a region that receives at least 50 inches of rain annually, so the tree expects to get a good amount of water. This averages out to about 92 gallons of water during a hot week, which often occurs in the regions the macadamia grows. Irrigation is especially important during initial planting when the tree establishes itself, usually over the first one or two growing seasons and when it produces fruit. Temperature and Humidity Being a native to Australia, there are very few areas in the United States where the macadamia tree will grow outdoors successfully. The macadamia can also grow well in California, Southern Texas, Florida, and the Gulf Coast. It can thrive as long as the requirements of warm weather with a good amount of moisture are fulfilled. Macadamia trees are in hardy in USDA zones 9 and 11, but not all regions in these zones have high enough precipitation. Fertilizer Annual fertilizing is only recommended once the tree reaches maturity. Most often, this occurs within seven to ten years after planting. Fertilizing with low nitrogen, phosphorous, and high potassium formula is best. A 0-0-50 NPK formulation, such as sulfate of potash, is a good suggestion. Pruning Naturally macadamia trees will have a vase-shaped crown. This is perfect if you are using the tree ornamentally or for shade. If this is the case the only pruning needed will be maintenance pruning to remove dead, dying, and damaged branches annually. If you plan on using the tree for fruit production then you will want to start to prune the tree into a shape that will allow it to get the best amount of sun and airflow for the most abundant fruit production. When pruning, use sharp, clean pruning shears. In order to do this, step away from the tree and imagine a cone around it. Remove branches over the first few years to give your tree somewhat of a cone shape, remembering to never remove more than 1/3 of the tree's material within a single year. Types of Macadamia Tree There are four species of macadamia trees, countless hybrids between these four species, and a vast amount of commercially available cultivars and grafted selections. M. integrifolia: One of the two trees used in commercial production with sweet nuts, self-pollinating, and grows to about 50 feet. M. tetraphylla: One of the two trees used in commercial production with sweet nuts that grows to about 32 feet. M. ternifolia: A tree with a bitter nut on the vulnerable list that grows to a height of about 26 feet at a medium rate. M. jansenii: On the endangered list, it is critically endangered, with only 100 known trees in the wild. Propagating Macadamia Trees Propagating macadamia trees from cuttings is perfectly doable, it will not allow you to see your first crop for at least a decade. This also does not guarantee that the tree will produce abundant fruit or stay healthy enough on its rootstock to reach maturity. Most macadamia trees used for crop production are grafted onto a cultivar selected for heartiness to serve as rootstock. In taking a cutting, you lose the heartiness of the original rootstock. If still inclined to propagate, the best method would be by air layering, though the process is advanced. Common Problems with Macadamia Trees Generally, macadamia trees are easy to care for, with most issues coming not from disease or pests but rather from placement and conditions. If you give your tree the proper conditions, it will usually be happy, but here are some things to look out for: Deer and Rodents When the trees mature, one of the biggest issues will be unwanted wildlife eating your crop. The easiest way to avoid this is to be mindful of ripe fruit and watch for any macadamias that fall to the ground that may attract unwanted wildlife. Fungus Often caused by wounds from weed whackers or improperly cleaned pruning tools. The most common signs will be cankers or dark lesions. Macadamia is most susceptible to Anthracnose and Phytophthora ramorum.