Bursting with flavor, oregano adds a robust dimension to dishes and carries health benefits. Learn when and how to harvest oregano for the best flavor and the plant's health. What Is Oregano? Oregano is an herb often used for cooking and as an antioxidant for health benefits. Its pronounced flavor is often described as herby, peppery, and minty, with an underlying faint bitterness. As a perennial, oregano will continue to grow year after year without replanting.1 Origanum. North Carolina State University Cooperative Extension. Oregano's name is derived from the Greek, and it means "beauty of the mountain." So, oregano can be grown for its appearance—no need for harvesting. Oregano develops small purple flowers that bloom during summer. Left unharvested, oregano can reach up to three feet high. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Different Types of Oregano Oregano has 45 species, but a few types are used most often:1 Common oregano (Origanum vulgare): This popular type of oregano (vulgare roughly means "common") is frequently used in tomato sauces and on pizza. It pairs well with basil and thyme. Golden oregano (Origanum vulgare 'Aureum'): Golden oregano has a milder taste than common oregano. It is often used as an ornamental plant due to its yellow foliage and pink and purple flowers. Mexican oregano (Lippia graveolens): Mexican oregano has a more lemony-minty flavor than common oregano, since it's closely related to the mint family. Though its taste is strong, the bitterness is lessened, making it a staple of Southwest and Mexican dishes. When to Harvest Oregano Oregano should be harvested during the growing season, right before or when the flowers have developed.2 "I usually harvest oregano just before it starts to flower, as that’s when the leaves have the highest concentration of essential oils, which makes them taste the nicest," says says Tom Farmer, a blogger who writes Our Country Garden. The growing season for oregano varies, but in many areas, it is from spring to early summer. Tip Though oregano is relatively pest-resistant, watch for aphids, spider mites, and thrips. Harvesting Fresh vs. Dried Oregano While milder herbs like cilantro, basil, and parsley taste better fresh than dried, oregano's bold flavor carries through into dried form. "I keep both [fresh and dried oregano] stocked for different reasons," says Lindsay Etemadipour, a holistic herbalist and the founder of Symbi. "Fresh oregano is best for dishes where a bright, fresh herb flavor is desired, while dried oregano is fantastic in recipes that benefit from a more intense, concentrated flavor," she says. "Dried oregano is ideal for soups, stews, and sauces where it has time to rehydrate and infuse its flavor into the dish." She adds that fresh oregano works well as a garnish for salads, soups, and pizzas. Harvesting Oregano for Fresh Use When harvesting oregano, snip off the tops of the stems. The stems include the leaves that will be removed for use. Below, leave at least four to six pairs of leaves per stem. This helps the oregano produce more leaves for future harvesting. "When harvesting oregano, you want to focus on three things: time of day, frequency, and maturity," Etemadipour says. "First, you want to ensure that you wait until oregano is about to flower, but not after it flowers. Once the plant flowers, the leaves will start to become bitter." Choosing the best time of day for harvesting is also critical. "You want to harvest mid-morning, after any nighttime dew has dried and before the day's heat," she says. "The herb's flavor is most potent at this time due to the oils." Farmer has a suggestion for harvesting oregano so you can get another batch. "I use sharp scissors to cut the stems just above a pair of leaves about one-third of the way down, as this allows the plant to re-shoot so I can harvest it again in a few months," he says. Tip Oregano and basil can be planted together, as they work together to keep mosquitoes, spider mites, aphids, and pests away. Harvesting Oregano for Dried Use Harvesting oregano for dried use is similar to harvesting for fresh use, but as Farmer points out, there are a couple of differences. "For drying, I aim to harvest a few more leaves, so I choose stems that are just about to flower and cut above a pair of leaves around two-thirds of the way down the stem," he says. he job isn't finished when you have collected your herbs, Farmer says. "I then bundle these stems and hang them upside down on a rack in my kitchen as it’s warm and dry. It normally takes about a week for them to dry out completely, depending on how humid it is outside." As a final step, Farmer packs the dried oregano in airtight containers until he needs it. How to Care for Oregano After Harvesting After harvesting, it's important to care for oregano to enable regrowth and for the oregano plant's continued health. "Regular harvesting helps keep the plant healthy and producing," Etemadipour says. "I usually harvest when the plant stems are about five inches tall. This will guarantee a few harvests a season." Farmer adds that water and fertilizer are important. "To keep the plant healthy after I’ve harvested it, I give it a really good water and a light feed with some liquid fertilizer. If any stems have already flowered when I come to harvest, I cut them back in the same way, discarding them, as this prevents the plant from putting all of its energy into the flowers." Tips for Harvesting Oregano Pick the right time of day, usually mid-morning. Snip the leaves rather than pulling them off by hand. Prune (or harvest) oregano to maintain health, even if you don't plan to consume the herb. Bundle the snipped stems with a rubber band, placing the band on the snipped end. If pruning for plant health only, prune aggressively: as low as 2 to 3 inches.3 For cooking use, harvest oregano around two times per year.3 Rinse the oregano right after harvesting to give it time to air-dry before use.

Watermelon is a popular melon that can be grown in any garden, as long as you have adequate space and sunlight. One tricky aspect of growing watermelon is knowing when the mature melons are ripe enough. It's important to pick them at the peak of ripeness because, like other melons, they don't continue to ripen off the vine. We're sharing 10 telltale signs to look out for when your watermelon is all ripe and ready to harvest. Weight If the watermelon feels dense and heavy for its size, this can be a good indicator of ripeness. The heavier the melon, the more juice has formed inside. But if you're not sure how heavy a watermelon should be, find two melons of approximately the same size and weigh both in your hands. You can practice this technique in the grocery store, too, to get a feel for how dense and heavy a ripe melon should feel. The Stem Is Mostly Brown If the watermelon stem has turned brown or is more brown than green in color, this is also a potential sign of ripeness. This indicates more energy from the vine has gone into the melon. Dried Out Tendrils The tendril is the curly section of the stem opposite where the watermelon is attached to the vine. Once the tendril turns brown and dry, the watermelon is ready to harvest The Ground Spot Is Yellow The ground spot (also sometimes called the "field spot" or the "belly spot") is usually a small round area on the watermelon where it has been lying in contact with the ground. Once this spot turns yellow, it's a sign the melon has ripened while still on the vine. Don't pick the melon if this spot is still white. If your watermelon doesn't have a ground spot, use some of the other signs to determine its ripeness. Note: this method won't work for miniature watermelons that are grown vertically on a fence or trellis. Smooth But Dull Skin Surface The surface of the watermelon skin should be dull and not shiny. A shiny rind or skin is still too immature to be harvested. The skin should also be free of cuts or bruises. Blossom End Firmness The blossom end of the watermelon is the one opposite the stem. Press gently on this spot; if it's mushy, the melon is overripe. If it's solid, the melon is underripe. If it presses in slightly, the melon is ripe for harvest. Smell A ripe watermelon will have a sweet but not overpowering smell when you sniff the blossom end. If the smell is overly sweet, rich, or cloying, the melon may be overripe. Vibrant Color Your watermelon may have any number of color characteristics depending on the variety; some melons are solid color and some have stripes. Look for a photo online of the variety to get a sense of how deeply colored a ripe one is (often a seed packet will have a photo of a ripe melon also). Wait until the melon reaches a vibrant color before harvesting. Even a watermelon that tends to be a paler green will reach a richer color as it gets ripe, so this is a sign along with the others listed to help you determine ripeness. Uniformity of Shape Different varieties of watermelon have different shapes: some are round, while some or more oval. You want to aim for a uniform shape with no unusual lumps or flat spots. Hollow Interior Sound Thump gently on the surface of the watermelon with your knuckles. A hollow, crisp, and resonating sound is a sign the watermelon is ripe. You will also feel a slight vibration. If the sound is dull and not resonant, the melon is not ready for harvest yet. How to Harvest When you've determined your watermelon is ripe enough to harvest, follow these techniques to do it properly. Cut It Off Cut the melon from the vine with a sharp knife or pruning shears. The watermelon may not pull loose on its own. Clean It Down Gently clean the melon with a soft cloth and mildly soapy water and rinse thoroughly. This is to remove any potentially harmful bacteria (that might be in the soil or left behind by garden wildlife) that might transfer from the skin into the fruit when you carve into it. Store Properly Store your watermelon at a temperature of between 50-60F. If stored at temperatures above 75F, the shelf life is only about 5 days. It's best to eat your watermelon as soon as possible after picking it. If you have any leftover cut portions, place them in the refrigerator.

If you're looking for a truly other-worldly fruit to grow on a plant that blooms only at night with large fragrant flowers, look no further than the dragon fruit plant. Also known as dragon fruit cactus or pitahaya, the plant is native to Mexico, Central America, and South America. Known for its bright pink, leathery skin with thorn-like fins, dragon fruit is sweet on the inside, featuring brightly colored flesh with tiny black seeds. In addition to producing unusual, nutritious, and showy fruit, these fast-growing perennial cacti also have ornamental value in your outdoor landscape. The plants grow up to 20 feet tall and produce aerial roots that allow them to cling to surfaces, creating their creeping, climbing habit. Smaller varieties of dragon fruit cactus are also grown indoors as houseplants. How to Plant Dragon Fruit Cactus When to Plant Dragon fruit cactus is best planted in the early spring to take full advantage of its growing season from March to August. Selecting a Planting Site To successfully grow your own dragon fruit plant, you need a location with well-drained soil in full sun to partial shade and ample space. This is a large, heavy cactus with a spreading habit and long stems. Make sure to plant it 15 to 25 feet away from your home and other structures, trees, and electrical lines. Spacing, Depth, and Support Dig a hole that is 3 to 4 times in diameter and 3 times as deep as the nursery container (this loosens up the soil and aids in root development). Refill the hole with enough soil so that when you place the plant in the hole, it is at the same level as it was in the container. Space plants at least 6 feet apart and support them with a strong trellis. Dragon Fruit Plant Care In tropical or subtropical conditions that mimic its natural habitat, dragon fruit cactus is a fast and vigorous grower. The most challenging part is to get the plants pollinated for fruit production. Light Although dragon fruit plants enjoy warm weather and are often planted in full sunlight, too much intense sun in dry and especially hot regions causes stem damage. If temperatures in your area are frequently near 100 degrees F, it's best to plant your cactus in a spot with partial shade. Too much shade, on the other hand, typically results in less abundant fruit production and the quality of your harvest may not be as impressive. Soil Dragon fruit cacti are not terribly fussy when it comes to soil type or pH level. The key is that the soil is moist, rich in organic matter, and well-draining. Mulch around the base of the plant—especially in drier regions—to help the soil retain its moisture. Water Although the dragon fruit plant has some drought tolerance, to produce a good fruit crop, it's best to water it consistently from the beginning of the bloom to harvest. However, excessive watering risks root rot and various forms of fungal disease. During the winter and into early spring, give the plant less water. Temperature and Humidity Dragon fruit plants are native to tropical regions, they won't survive in areas that experience freezing weather, especially if that freeze is prolonged. Temperatures ranging from 65 degrees F to 80 degrees F at the highest are considered optimal growing conditions. Fertilizer Dragon fruit cacti are fast growers and heavy feeders. During their first year, fertilize them every couple of months with a complete balanced fertilizer, ideally one with a high nutrient content, such as 20-20-20. Once the plants are well-established, they should do fine with just a couple of fertilizer applications in the spring and summer. In addition, amend the soil with compost or organic matter a couple of times a year. Pollination Some dragon fruit cultivars are self-incompatible, which means you may need two to three different varieties to ensure a better chance of fruit production through cross-pollination. The flowers of the dragon fruit plant open at night when there are no bees around; they are mostly pollinated by bats and moths. The flowers of some cultivars remain open in the early morning hours so you might get lucky and bees that are out and about early will find them. If you are growing a variety that is not self-pollinating and want to be sure the flowers get pollinated, you will have to resort to hand-pollination between dusk and dawn. Collect the pollen from the stamen of one variety and gently dab it onto the stigma of another variety. Use a fresh cotton swab for every plant. Types of Dragon Fruit Plant There are about 15 species of dragon fruit plants with different fruit colors, as well as numerous hybrid varieties. Popular ones include: ‘American Beauty’: a self-fertile cultivar of Hylocereus guatemalensis. It has red skin with green bracts and bright, magenta-colored flesh. ‘Dark Star’: a self-sterile hybrid with dark pink skin and purple flesh that has grape-like flavor. ‘David Bowie’: a self-fertile and self-pollinating cultivar of Hylocereusundatus with pinkish-red skin that is covered with numerous green bracts. The flesh is white with a lemony taste. ‘Purple Haze’: a vigorously growing, self-pollinating hybrid. The fruit is large, one to two pounds each, with pink skin and green bracts. The purple flesh is very sweet with hints of grape and kiwi and only a few seeds. ‘Zamorano’: a self-pollinating hybrid with dark red flesh and sweet, mild flavor. It is a slow grower, which makes it a good choice for containers. Harvesting Dragon Fruit You will know your dragon fruit is ready to harvest when the flaps on the pink outer skin starts to develop a withered appearance. If it's ripe, you should be able to twist it from the stem with ease. Any fruit that has fallen from the stem on its own tends to be overripe, so timing your harvest properly is important. If kept in the refrigerator, dragon fruit lasts up to two weeks. The large, edible flowers that are produced by the cactus are also impressive—they tend to be white and have a strong fragrance. However, they are usually nocturnal, so you'll only get to enjoy (and pick) them once the sun has gone down. How to Grow Dragon Fruit Plant in Pots For container-growing, choose a smaller variety such as 'Edgar’s Baby,' 'Alice,' 'Seoul Kitchen,' 'Yellow Dragon Fruit,' or 'Zamorano.' Use a five-gallon container that is at least 10 to 12 inches deep, with adequate drainage holes. To prevent the container from toppling over, a ceramic or terra-cotta pot works better than lightweight plastic. Fill it with nutrient-rich, neutral to acidic potting soil (not cactus soil). To further improve the drainage, place pebbles, stones, or bark at the bottom of the container. Provide a sturdy trellis for the plant to grow on. Pruning Pruning your dragon fruit cactus is key to minimizing the risk of fungal disease and insect infestation. Uncontrolled growth also leads to poor light penetration for the tangled center stems, which impacts fruit production. Regular pruning also encourages prolific flowering and prevents the plant from becoming too heavy for the trellis. Plan to periodically cut back any overly long, damaged, tangled, or dead stems as often as two or three times per year. If you're lucky (or have a younger plant), you may be able to get away with a single annual pruning session after you have harvested the fruit. Propagating Dragon Fruit Plant Propagating dragon fruit from stem cuttings is easy and yields fast results, unlike propagation from seed, which is not recommended because it takes up to seven years before the plant starts bearing fruit. Here is how to use stem cuttings to make a new plant: Take a 10- to 12-inch cutting from a healthy stem. Treat the cut end with fungicide. Let the cutting callus over in a dry, shady place for 7 to 10 days. Dust the cut end with rooting hormone and plant the cutting cut-side down in a pot filled with a well-draining potting mix. Water it lightly and keep it moderately moist. Once the cutting has started to root (check by gently tugging on it), gradually move it to a location with more sunlight. It will take the cuttings 4 to 6 months to develop a good root system, after which they are ready for planting in the landscape or larger pots. When planted from a cutting, you may have a harvest within one to three years. Potting and Repotting A mature dragon fruit plant requires a 25- to 30-gallon size container with a depth of 20 to 24 inches. Given the fast growth rate of the plant, it will require frequent repotting to a larger container with fresh potting soil whenever the plant becomes root-bound. Keep in mind that the roots of the plant are very small and hairy and repotting it requires extra caution in order not to damage them. Overwintering Overwintering measures are only necessary below USDA zone 10, where dragon fruit plant can be grown in containers. Bring the plants indoors when daytime temperatures drop below 65 F and there is any danger of frost. In the spring, wait until all danger of frost is past and the daytime temperatures are consistently above 70 degrees F. In fall and winter, reduce the watering, as the plant goes dormant. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Depending on where you live, wild animals could find your dragon fruit crop appealing. You may need to take measures to protect your cactus and its fruit from rats, raccoons, birds, and more. The plants are also attractive to ants, mealybugs, mites, and thrips. Potential diseases are stem rot or canker, reddish-brown, yellowish, or white spots and lesions on the stems and blades (leaves). Rot and canker can be difficult to contain on a dragon fruit plant. Remove the damaged, infected parts and treat the plant with a fungicide. To avoid these types of issues, ensure your plant gets the right amount of sun, moisture, and air circulation.