Blueberry plants are fairly simple to grow, making them a great choice for both inexperienced and avid gardeners. However, to produce the biggest and juiciest blueberries, fertilizing with the right products at the right time is crucial. Experts recommend fertilizing blueberry plants in early spring, and sometimes again in early summer and early fall, with an acidic, slow-release fertilizer. The appropriate fertilizer for blueberry plants will supply essential nutrients like nitrogen and maintain the correct soil pH. Conditions for Growing Blueberries Blueberry plants are relatively easy to grow in pots or directly in the ground and are fairly tolerant of both hot and cold weather. Nevertheless, blueberries do best in areas that are protected from high winds and receive six to eight hours of full sun. Your soil should be acidic, well-draining, and rich in organic matter, with a pH of 4.0 to 5.5. When to Fertilize Blueberry Plants To help your blueberries access the right amount of nutrients at the right times, you should fertilize at least once a season and up to three times, based on the soil pH and plant's health. While the exact timing is flexible, experts suggest fertilizing blueberries before the plants begin producing foliage or at the first signs of foliage (generally in the early spring). Always check your the recommended application rates and timing for your specific fertilizer before adding it to your blueberry plants. Some gardeners also fertilize blueberries in early summer, roughly six weeks later, as well as early fall, roughly one month before the first frost. However, the amount of fertilizer your blueberries require, ultimately depends on two factors: the soil pH and available nitrogen. If you notice pale leaves or minimal growth on your blueberry plants, test the soil pH to see if it's time to fertilize. How to Fertilize Blueberries You can choose a water-soluble fertilizer for your blueberry plants, but many avid gardeners recommend an acidic, slow-release fertilizer, which comes in the form of small granules. Their solid composition allows for a gradual application of nutrients over time, which helps promote the long-term health of your blueberry plants. Sprinkle your fertilizer granules evenly around the base of the plant and outward, as far away from the plant's main stem as its branches and leaves. Blueberry plants have fairly shallow roots, so there's no need to rake or turn over the soil after applying your fertilizer. In fact, you should avoid disturbing the soil, since doing so could inadvertently damage the plant's roots. Once you've applied the fertilizer, some gardeners like to add a thin layer (no more than two inches) of mulch to help insulate the plant's roots. If you choose to apply a layer of mulch, we recommend a simple option like wood chips or even dried, shredded leaves. The Best Fertilizers for Blueberries The best fertilizer for your blueberry plants should accomplish two primary goals: add nitrogen and acidify the soil. As is the case with many fruit plants, nitrogen is essential to help blueberries grow plump and juicy. Nitrogen helps every part of a blueberry plant thrive, from the depth of the roots to the color of the leaves. An ammonium sulfate or elemental sulfur fertilizer can both provide nitrogen gradually and maintain a healthy soil pH. If you'd like to solely apply nutrients, purchase an organic granular fruit fertilizer to feed your plant. Blueberry plants will generally thrive with any fertilizer designed for acid-loving plants like azaleas and rhododendrons. Be sure to test your soil pH before adding fertilizer to assess the nutrients already present in your garden and determine which is the appropriate fertilizer for your plants.

The lupine flower, also known as lupin or bluebonnet, looks like a wildflower, but it is a fast-growing legume in the pea family that has a tall, showy spire of colorful blooms that are typically purple. Flowers bloom from spring through midsummer and, while individual lupine plants do not spread, the flower pods each disperse up to a dozen seeds. Lupine is an annual and short-lived perennial flower with a lifespan of two to five years. This low-maintenance plant grows best in northern climates with cooler summers and requires a daily six hours of full sunlight, weekly watering, and soil on the acidic side. These vividly colored flowers are also deer-resistant and beneficial to pollinators like bees and butterflies. The plant is toxic to humans and animals. Lupine Care Here are the main care requirements for growing lupine: Plant lupines during cooler early spring or fall temperatures. Use loose, sandy soil for lupines, and avoid planting this flower in clay soil unless it is amended. Offer lupines more sun and minimum shade. Space smaller lupines a foot apart and larger ones two to three feet apart. Stake taller lupine varieties using grow-through grid stakes to prevent them from flopping over. Water lupine during periods of dry weather. Use an acidifying, phosphorous-heavy fertilizer when planting lupine. Deadhead lupine to encourage continuous flowering. Planting To grow lupine seedlings, dig holes 1 to 1 1/2 feet deep and start small plants about 1 foot apart, while larger plants should be grown two to three feet apart. Ideally, lupine plants are planted outdoors in cooler temperatures, either early spring or fall. Add mulch but avoid fertilizer. Light Lupines prefer full sun, at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days, to grow and bloom their best. They can grow in partial shade, but their flowering will diminish. However, some afternoon shade is ideal in hot climates. Soil These flowers thrive in organically rich soil or loose, sandy soil with sharp drainage. They prefer a neutral to slightly acidic soil pH, though they also can grow in very acidic soil conditions. Lupines will typically not survive in heavy clay soil unless the dirt is loosened a few inches down and heavily amended with compost. Water While lupines don't like soggy soil, which can cause root rot, they prefer regular watering. Water at least weekly if you haven't gotten rainfall to prevent the soil from drying out. Temperature and Humidity Lupines like fairly cool summers and don't bloom well in the hot, humid climates of the southern part of the United States. Place a light layer of mulch around the lupines to retain soil moisture and keep the roots cool in hot areas. Fertilizer Lupines generally don't require fertilizer, and too much fertilizer can encourage excess foliage growth rather than blooms.4 However, an acidifying fertilizer with more phosphorous than nitrogen is useful for lowering the soil pH of alkaline soils. These fertilizers may be labeled as "bloom boosters."5 Lupine already fixes the nitrogen in the soil, so it doesn't require more. Types of Lupine The types of lupine grown in gardens are generally hybrid crosses (Lupinus × hybrida) of various native species bred to maximize flower color and vigor. Lupinus is an enormous genus of flowering plants, comprising hundreds of species. The colorful hybrid lupines most popular for gardens were primarily derived from Lupinus polyphyllus (also called large-leaved lupine), a North American native, crossed with various other species, such as Lupinus arboreus. Although rainbow hybrid lupine seed mixes are the most popular commercially available lupine, the original blue strain is the hardiest. There are several lupine varieties available that vary in appearance, including: Russell mixed colors: Bred in 1937 and naturalized in many areas, this hybrid rainbow and bicolor mixture is the foundation for all new cultivars. Gallery series: Dense flower spikes on this compact plant grow no more than 2 feet tall. For example, 'Gallery White' boasts snowy white flower spikes. 'Dwarf Lulu': These plants grow about 2 feet tall in a rainbow of hues and feature unusually dense racemes. 'Minarette': This dwarf 18-inch variety of lupine looks stunning in drifts along a border's edge or in containers. Lupinus albus (white lupine): This taller lupine can grow up to 4 feet tall with white blossoms. Lupinus albifrons (silver lupine): This taller lupine grows between 3 to 5 feet tall with silver-green leaves topped with pale blue to purple flowers. Lupinus angustifolius (blue lupine): Also called narrowleaf lupine, this taller plant grows to 5 feet tall and has blue blooms. It is used more for agricultural use than for gardens. Propagating Lupines Because lupines sprout so easily from seed, this is the normal method for growing them, though blooming takes longer. Lupines can also be propagated by carefully taking basal cuttings from established plants in the spring and simply replanting them. Basal propagation ensures an ongoing stock of the plants, and they may bloom sooner than seeds. Take these steps: Propagate lupine cuttings in the early spring before the plant has begun to actively grow and leaf out. Use a sanitized sharp knife to sever a segment of the crown and roots from the parent plant. Transplant the new segment to a new location in the ground. Propagate lupine every two to three years, as they are short-lived plants. How to Grow Lupine From Seed Lupines are easy perennials to grow from seeds but can take two years to bloom this way. Buy lupine seeds or harvest the small round tan or green seeds from the plant's pods in the fall. Start lupines from seed in the early to late spring or late fall for the following spring season. Take these steps: Before sowing in the ground, nick the tough seed coat or soak it in water overnight to ensure a better germination rate. Plant the seeds about 1/4 inch deep outdoors in a permanent area that receives full sun. Lupines do not transplant easily due to their long taproots. Expect germination in 14 to 30 days. Potting and Repotting Lupine Plant lupine in pots in the springtime. Choose a large, deep, and heavy container to comfortably handle the plant's long taproots and top-heavy, upright growth. Use well-draining soil, space lupine plants a minimum of a foot apart, and put the container in full sun. Cut the plant back and shelter the pot over the winter to help lupines survive. Overwintering During the winter, lupines die back to the ground and go dormant. Cut the lupine stalks down to the ground, leaving 1 to 2 inches above ground. Mulch to protect the below-ground plant from freezing temperatures as it overwinters. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Lupine is vulnerable to aphids are common in spring.6 Control pests with horticultural oils or pesticides. Lupine is susceptible to lupine anthracnose which causes leaf blight and brown spots.7 Remove and destroy affected plants and avoid using the area to grow lupines for several years so the spores have time to die off. Powdery mildew from poor air circulation can impact lupines with white, powdery patches on foliage.8 Cut away the foliage and wait for regrowth or treat it with organic methods. How to Get Lupine to Bloom Bloom Months Lupine blooms from late spring into July. If they do rebloom after their first flush, they may produce smaller flowers. What Do Lupine Flowers Look and Smell Like? Hybrid lupines have a telltale look of tall, showy spires of flowers that can come in a multitude of colors. The foliage resembles palm leaves with seven to 10 leaflet segments each. Lupines have sweet scents but various types smell different. How to Encourage More Blooms Lupines planted in deep shade typically won't flower. Remedy this by trimming back neighboring shrubs and trees for more sun. A second bloom in the summer may occur but with smaller flowers. Cut back in spring after the first flowering to encourage summer blooms. What to Do With Lupine After It Blooms Deadheading lupine after it blooms and fades may result in a second flush. By the fall, cut the plants down to the ground. Common Problems With Lupine Lupine is easy to grow but there may be a couple of problems. Here's what to look for. Not Blooming Your lupines may not be blossoming because they are not getting enough sunlight, the flowers are underwatered, there's a pest infestation, or the soil does not have enough phosphorous in it. Brown Leaf Tips Lupines are susceptible to a fungus called lupine anthracnose. The leaf tips of younger lupine plants turn brown and bend. As the disease develops, more brown spots and cankers appear on the leaves. Remove and discard all infected plants. To protect surrounding plants from the fungus, use a fungicide for outdoor ornamental plants or one for Colletotrichum diseases. Colletotrichum gloeosporioides cause Lupine anthracnose.

Growing perennial herbs is a savvy way to save money in the garden and make gardening chores a lot easier. However, keeping track of the herbs that are actually perennials can be a bit of a challenge since many perennial herb plants are commonly treated like annuals in cold climates. To help you out, we’ve compiled a list of popular perennial herbs below, including a selection of the most cold hardy plants that can survive winters in the chilliest gardens. What Are Perennial Herbs? Perennial herbs are relatively long-lived plants that take more than 2 years to complete their life cycle. These plants are winter hardy in their native habitat and often get quite large as they mature. Many of our most popular culinary herbs are technically perennials, including most mints and woody-stemmed herbs like lavender. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! What Are Annual Herbs? Herbs that are true annuals often have tender stems and a fast growth rate and they complete their entire life cycle in less than a year. That means that if you plant annual herb seeds in spring, you can expect your plants to reach their mature size, flower, and produce seeds all before they die back in fall. Dill, cilantro, and other herbs in the carrot family fall into this category; however, many perennial herbs are treated like annuals when they’re planted outside of their hardiness zone. Perennial vs. Tender Perennial Herbs Although tender perennial herbs are technically perennial plants, tender herbs are sensitive to the cold and they don’t survive winters in chilly climates. Most growers cultivate tender perennial herbs, like basil, as annuals and allow their plants to die back in fall. However, cold-sensitive herbs can be kept alive for years by overwintering them indoors or in a heated greenhouse. If you want to grow perennial herbs with minimal effort and don’t want to bother with overwintering plants indoors, select herbs that are winter hardy in your growing zone. Many cold tolerant, perennial herbs can be cultivated outdoors year round without winter protection—and some can even be harvested when they’re covered in snow. Common Perennial Herbs From apple mint to winter savory, there are many perennial herbs to choose from. But just because herbs are perennials, doesn’t mean they’ll necessarily grow perennially in your area. Before planting any of the following herbs in your garden, doublecheck their hardiness zone to make sure they can survive winters in your garden. Anise Hyssop Apple Mint Bay Laurel Bee Balm Bronze Fennel Catnip Chives Chocolate Mint French Tarragon Garlic Chives Lavender Lemon Balm Lemon Thyme Lemon Verbena Lovage Marjoram Mountain Mint Oregano Peppermint Pineapple Sage Roman Chamomile Rosemary Sage Salad Burnet Shiso Spearmint Stevia Sweet Cicely Thyme Winter Savory 11 Perennial Herbs to Grow Many growers dream of having a large herb garden brimming with fresh herbs for cooking, tea making, and more. But if you don’t have a lot of room for growing herbs, reserve the space you do have for the herbs you use the most in your recipes and plants that are well-suited to your growing zone. If you’re having a hard time choosing between herb plants, here’s a list of 11 perennial herbs that are especially versatile in the kitchen and easy to care for. Bay Laurel If you use a lot of bay leaves in your cooking, why not grow a bay laurel tree (Laurus nobilis) or two and harvest your own bay leaves for recipes? Although bay laurels only grow perennially in USDA zones 8 through 10, these plants thrive in roomy pots and can be cultivated indoors in cold locations. Among their many charms, bay laurel plants are relatively pest-proof, they’re long-lived, and their glossy green leaves have lots of aesthetic appeal. Chives Chives grow well in gardens or pots, and they can be used—fresh or dry—to flavor salads, soups, baked potatoes, casseroles, and many more dishes. Incredibly cold tolerant, chives grow perennially in zones 3 and up and they’re fantastic companion plants for attracting bees and other pollinators to veggie gardens. If you’re tired of classic chives, try growing garlic chives instead and use the garlic-flavored leaves in any recipe that calls for garlic cloves. Lavender Many growers cultivate lavender plants just for their richly scented leaves and charming, purple flowers. However, English lavender is edible and it can be used in desserts, brewed into teas, or infused into creative cocktails and mocktails. Like many other woody-stemmed herbs, lavender grows best in full sun and well-draining soil, and most varieties are winter hardy from zones 5 through 9. Marjoram There are several types of marjoram, but the most common variety for cooking is only hardy from zones 9 and up. If you live in a warm location, you can grow marjoram outdoors year round, but growers in colder areas should move their plants inside in winter if they want to keep them around. Marjoram leaves taste a bit like citrus mixed with pine and they can be used to elevate the taste of pasta sauces and other savory treats. Mint Growers have lots of mint plants to choose from, but peppermint and spearmint are usually the easiest plants to find at garden centers. Apple mint, chocolate mint, lemon balm, and catnip also fall into the mint category and, like other mint plants, they grow best when they’re provided with regular water and plenty of sun. Most mint plants grow aggressively and they should be kept in pots or dedicated raised beds to avoid invasiveness; however, native mountain mint plants are more mild-mannered and they’re especially attractive to native bees. Oregano Another cold hardy herb, common oregano grows perennially in zones 4 and up, and plants often remain evergreen through the winter months. In fact, you may be able to harvest small quantities of oregano leaves even when there’s snow on the ground and use those leaves to flavor pizza sauces, soups, and other cozy treats. For more variety, try lesser known oregano varieties like Greek oregano, Mexican oregano, or Syrian oregano. Roman Chamomile German chamomile and Roman chamomile are both grown for herbal teas; however, only Roman chamomile grows perennially. Compared to German chamomile, Roman chamomile plants are relatively short and they sport smaller, white and yellow flowers that are highly attractive to pollinators. Picking chamomile flowers every day or two keeps plants productive, and it’s the best way to boost the size of your chamomile harvest. Sage A classic herb for flavoring roasted meats and veggies, sage plants maintain a relatively upright growth habit and usually max out at around two to three feet tall. These plants grow well in pots or garden beds, but they should be kept in full sun and well-draining soil to avoid issues like root rot. Most culinary sage plants boast soft, silvery-green leaves, but if you love lots of garden color, you may want to grow purple or tricolor sage instead. Tarragon Hardy in zones 4 and up, tarragon is a popular ingredient in French cuisine and its licorice-flavored leaves are often blended into butter or infused into vinegar or olive oil. As with other homegrown herbs, tarragon leaves can be used fresh or they can be frozen or dried for longer term storage. Not only are tarragon plants tasty, but their buttery orange flowers bring lots of color to herb beds and flower pots—and they’re highly attractive to pollinators, too. Thyme Another woody-stemmed herb from the Mediterranean region, thyme prefers to grow in well-draining, sandy soil and full sun. While common thyme is the most popular thyme variety for culinary use, adventurous gardeners may want to grow other types of thyme instead. Lemon thyme, for instance, is prized for its lemony flavor; while creeping thyme has a particularly low growth habit and can be used as an edible ground cover or grass alternative in lawns. Winter Savory Unlike summer savory, winter savory is a perennial plant that has woody stems and a deep, rich flavor with notes of black pepper and pine. Hardy to zone 4, winter savory is often grown as a marjoram substitute in cold climates, but it’s also useful as a pest-repelling companion plant in vegetable gardens. If you want to dry woody-stemmed herbs like winter savory, gather the herb stems in bundles and hang them in a warm, dry place with good air flow until the stems are thoroughly dry and brittle.