trees

Trees are important landscape components that grow slowly but often outlast most other plants. They offer visual height, shade, and a habitat for birds, and well-planted trees could very well outlive you. Adding a tree to your property is a bit more complex than adding a small shrub or garden bed, but that doesn't mean it's too difficult for a DIY. You'll just need to invest time and resources into doing the job right if you want to leave your property more shaded and beautiful than you found it. Here's how to plant a tree the easy way and help it flourish for future generations. How to Plant a Tree Select Your Tree Type The best way to set yourself up for success is to choose a tree that will thrive in your local climate. Look up your region's USDA Plant Hardiness Zone and select a tree that is likely to grow well under local conditions. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Choose a Location Aesthetics isn't the only thing to consider when selecting the best spot for a tree. To figure out where to plant it, start with the process of elimination. You'll need to consider the following: Underground utility lines: Make sure you research your state laws before digging and contact the proper agencies and utility companies to mark underground lines. Sunlight: Most trees need six to eight hours of full sunlight to grow well, so avoid any shaded areas in your yard. Mature size: You'll also want to consider the full size of the tree when it matures, so don't select a location that's too close to structures like your home or other mature trees. Prepare Your Starter Tree If you're relatively new to gardening, planting a starter tree rather than a seed can help give you better results. You'll get to bypass the initial growing stages where more things can go wrong. Before planting a bare-root starter tree, you'll need to soak its roots in a bucket of water for a couple of hours to help them stay moist during the process. For potted starter trees, make sure to water the tree as soon as you get it home. Place it outside near its future dwelling place to allow it to acclimate to the conditions for a week. When you're ready to plant it, gently remove it from its container. Prepare the Hole Adjust the soil: Start by checking your soil's acidity and assessing its health. Most trees prefer loose, loamy, and well-draining soil with a neutral pH. However, you'll want to research your specific tree's needs and adjust the soil accordingly to make it more acidic or to raise the pH. Incorporating organic matter via compost can make the soil looser, more loamy, and better-draining, but it also raises the acidity. It's all about balance. Dig the hole: Dig a hole in your yard that's at least twice the width and about one inch deeper than the starter tree's root system. Set the excavated soil aside: Don't discard the extra soil you've removed from the tree. You'll need it in the next step. Transplant the Starter Tree To transplant your tree, place it upright in the prepped hole. Shovel the excavated soil back into the hole, tamping it gently as you go. Reposition the tree as needed during the process to ensure it stays upright. Add extra soil to the base of the tree in a mound shape, and create a moat around the perimeter for extra water to collect and keep the tree moist as it matures. Apply a thin layer of mulch, leaving a three-inch ring around the base of the tree to allow for air flow. How to Care for a Newly-Planted Tree While a young tree is establishing its root system, it needs some extra attention. Follow these care tips for the first two to three years after planting your tree. Water frequently:Water the tree daily for the first two weeks to prevent root shock, and slowly reduce the frequency after to every other day and then weekly. Once your tree becomes more established, you only need to water it every two to three weeks during dry periods. Keep it mulched: Keeping a young tree mulched will help its roots retain moisture better. Reapply the mulch on an annual basis. You can drop the frequency to once every two years when the tree matures. Stake it: Sometimes, a young tree's root system isn't established enough to support it. If you notice your transplanted tree bending, stake it to prevent it from snapping from the top weight or heavy winds. The Best Time to Plant a Tree You'll want to plant a starter tree into the ground when the weather is mild and when the plant is entering or just starting to end its dormancy period. For most regions, this is during fall or early spring. Both seasons have their pros and cons for planting a tree. Planting a Tree in Fall Planting a tree in the fall gives it ample time to establish its root system before the summer heat kicks in. Since the tree is on its way towards entering dormancy, it can channel its energy into root growth rather than leaf growth. However, you want to make sure you don't plant the tree too late in the fall, or you run the risk of below-freezing temps causing damage to the tree's root system. Planting a Tree in Spring Local nurseries often get a fresh supply of trees delivered in spring, so you should have a great selection to choose from. Just be sure to wait until after the ground has thawed from winter, but don't put it off too long. The warmer temps of early summer can cause the tree to go into shock.

Covering a tree's roots above ground can limit the tree's access to oxygen and moisture which helps them grow and stay healthy. Avoid cutting, trimming, or removing tree roots because it can make the tree woody and unstable, especially during storms. To discourage root growth at the surface level, try using mulch to cover the roots, loosen compacted soil, or hire a pro arborist. Despite their seemingly breezy maintenance requirements, trees can be tricky to care for especially if not done properly—this also extends to their root systems. Is it better, for instance, to cover tree roots or leave them alone? To gather these answers and more, we reached out to an expert tree arborist to share their best insights. Meet the Expert Eric North is a certified arborist and urban forestry program manager at the Arbor Day Foundation, the world’s largest tree-planting nonprofit planting trees. Should You Cover Your Tree Roots Above Ground? No, you should not cover the tree’s roots. according to Eric North, a certified arborist and urban forestry program manager at the Arbor Day Foundation. “Oxygen and moisture are typically most available to tree roots in the open pore spaces of the upper soil, often in the upper 18 to 24 inches,” he explains. So, the deeper you go, the more compact the soil gets, which means less space for the oxygen and moisture tree roots need. If you cover the tree’s roots, the tree will only work harder to reach closer to the soil’s surface to reach water and nutrients. All the more reason not to cover your tree’s roots. “The exception to this is when soil erosion or any other disruption to the soil environment exposes fine roots that had been below the soil surface,” North explains. In cases such as these, you can add some soil to cover any newly exposed roots. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Don’t Cut Your Tree Roots But above all, don’t trim your tree’s roots. Avoid trimming, cutting, or removing tree roots when the tree is young or old. “As roots continue to age, they become woody and their primary role changes to providing energy storage and stability for the tree,” North says. So, damaging even old roots can kill the tree’s roots, result in a reduction in the tree’s growth, or lead to unstable trees that will need to be straightened or else may fall down during storms. What to Do Instead It’s normal for roots to want to be near the soil’s surface. North explains how when roots grow near or at the soil surface, it’s typically because that’s where the most ideal conditions exist. However, there are several things you can still do to discourage root growth at the surface level. Correct the soil conditions at the time of planting. Loosen compacted soil and add in some new organic matter (such as compost). Hire a certified professional arborist to improve compacted soils and encourage root growth below the soil surface. Professional arborists have tools that use pressurized air to blow away and loosen soil without minimal damage to existing roots. Cover the tree roots with mulch. This will help the soil retain moisture while remaining covered by the mulch. Are Exposed Roots a Sign of Good or Poor Tree Health? Trees have adapted to a wide range of conditions, and their roots spread out to help them find the most nutrients. Above-ground roots are not necessarily indicators of tree health, North says. However, they can be a reasonable indicator of soil conditions. “Surface roots frequently form when soils are heavily compacted or there is a high-water table,” North says. Both situations can impact your tree’s ability to gather water and nutrients. Are Some Trees More Prone to Above Soil Roots? Yes, some tree species are genetically prone to producing shallow roots, North says. This can include such species and varieties as Ficus, mountain spruces, and trees adapted to areas prone to flooding. “In this latter case, the shallow roots nature is likely an evolutionary adaptation to manage limited resources,” he says.

Ensure that you are watering your plant according to its needs—not too much, and not too little. Check your plant regularly for signs of pests, fungus, or other topical maladies. Consider if your plant is getting everything it needs, including space and soil nutrients. Taking care of plants is rewarding, especially when it comes to fruit trees or other edible plants. But it quickly becomes a stressful endeavor when you spot a mystery problem, such as your citrus leaves turning yellow. Whether it's an orange, lime, grapefruit, or lemon tree's leaves turning yellow, we've rounded up some of the most common reasons why the foliage might be full-blown yellow or speckled with spots, as well as solutions, straight from experts. Overwatering People who care deeply for plants can be so concerned with underwatering that they end up overwatering their tree. Soggy soil can lead to root rot for the likes of lemon and orange trees, leading to yellow leaves and other problems. "It’s best to repot the plant as soon as possible if you’ve accidentally overwatered it, or if you notice that the soil is very compact and dries out pretty slowly," says botany expert Nastya Vasylchyshyna. When doing so, replace old substrate with fresh, dry soil, and examine the plant's roots, cutting off any rotten parts with sterilized pruners. Then, treat the remaining roots with fungicide, Vasylchyshyna recommends, and your tree should be as good as new. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Underwatering On the other hand, a lack of water can also cause the leaves on your mandarin, lemon, orange, and lime trees to turn yellow and eventually dry out entirely. The good news? Vasylchyshyna says it's totally possible for your tree to bounce back. "If your citrus is lacking moisture, water it more frequently and generously, soaking the soil all the way down," she says. "You can trim any bare, leafless shoots to encourage new growth." It's easy to assume that watering requirements are the same across the Rutaceae family, but it's good to look at the specific variety you've planted, how old it is, and where it's located in your garden or home. Nutrient Deficiencies Nitrogen, magnesium, zinc, nitrogen, manganese, and iron deficiencies are common among citrus tree varieties. You can combat this with soil testing and a complex fertilizer that can counteract any low or high levels of nutrients in the soil where your tree is planted. "Make sure the plant food you choose has the right ratio of macronutrients—such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium—and contains necessary micronutrients as well," says Vasylchyshyna. She recommends a fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 2-1-1. You'll want to adjust this as the seasons change and your citrus tree flowers. Stick with the aforementioned ratio in spring and summer. "Once the citrus starts to flower, reduce the share of nitrogen in favor of potassium (an NPK ratio of 1-1-2 or 1-1-1)," she says. "During the fruiting season, keep the nitrogen levels low and increase the share of phosphorus and potassium; a fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 1-2-2 works best at this time." Plant Diseases There are a handful of diseases that can inflict your citrus tree and lead to the yellowing of its leaves. Some are specific to certain varieties of citrus, whereas others you'll find wreaking havoc across various tree types. One of the main diseases citrus trees are susceptible to is chlorosis; this issue can arise through a few different factors—from pest infestations to overwatering to physical breakages. In many instances, you may want to prune a lemon tree or other citrus variety to stop the spread. Pests Like any plant or tree, citrus fruits can attract a range of bugs to its branches. While some are undoubtedly essential and supportive (like pollinators), some cause trouble for your trees. One example in particular is spider mites. "These pests can be quite hard to spot, especially early on, as they hide on leaf undersides and in leaf axils," says Vasylchyshyna. "They pierce leaves and suck the sap from plant tissue, which causes the foliage to turn yellow." Give your trees thorough examinations, using a magnifying glass to spot any tiny critter infestations. Oftentimes, the best way to solve for these problems are through hosing down the tree and using an insecticide or acaricide. Fungus Fungi can cause problems for citrus trees and lead to the development of diseases, with common symptoms being yellow leaves. Fungicides are usually the most effective way of clearing out the fungus; oil is another helpful solution. Before taking action, visually determine the exact type of fungal problem your tree is having and the best fix depending on the kind of tree you have. The Pot A common, though unexpected, culprit of yellowing leaves is often the pot your tree is in. Trees growing in a planter as opposed to in the ground may feel restricted, leading to yellow leaves. "When choosing a pot, make sure it accommodates the root system, leaving just enough space for new growth," Vasylchyshyna says. "If your citrus gets root-bound, it can't properly absorb water and nutrients." If this happens, repot your plant as fast as possible into a container twice the size of the previous one. While doing so, loosen the roots of your plant to encourage healthy growth. Once this is done, be sure to give it plenty of attention and care so it can recover from the shock.

Dragon tree (Dracaena marginata), is a tall plant with green, sword-like, red-edged leaves. Native to Madagascar, the eye-catching spiky tree is a great entry plant for household gardeners wanting an indoor tree—it's easy to care for, drought-tolerant, and nearly indestructible. This slow-growing tree can take a decade to reach a few feet tall but can eventually grow to about 20 feet. However, it is generally grown as a potted houseplant and kept pruned to 6 feet or less. Keep the dragon tree away from pets because it's toxic to animals if ingested. Dragon Tree Care Dragon trees are very popular as large potted plants for homes and offices. Here are the most important care requirements. Plant in well-draining soil Water regularly during their growing season. Place in bright, indirect light, though they can thrive in a variety of light conditions. Fertilize conservatively at the beginning of spring. Light Place your dragon tree in an area with bright, indirect light. These plants can also survive in partial shade. Keep in mind that plants kept in lower light situations will grow slower and produce smaller leaves with less intense color. Additionally, take care not to place your dragon tree in a spot that receives direct rays of sunlight—its foliage can burn easily.2 Soil Use a loose, well-drained potting mix when growing a dragon tree as a potted plant—loamy soil amended with peat moss is ideal. Make sure the container you choose has room for the plant's extensive root system. Some varieties are imported from Hawaii and will arrive with lava rock—if this is the case, remove about a third of the rock and replace it with potting soil. Water Wait until the top half of the soil is dry before watering a dragon tree, which could take three weeks or more. Like many drought-tolerant plants, the dragon tree can be easily overwatered. Temperature and Humidity Keep your dragon tree in their preferred warmer temperatures of between 70°F and 80°F. Regular household humidity should be fine for them, but if your house is particularly dry, you can consider misting the plant lightly from a spray bottle every few days. Fertilizer Feed a dragon tree lightly at the beginning of spring with a balanced controlled-release liquid fertilizer. Although they have a relatively low need for fertilizer and it is not an essential component to having a thriving plant, it can support new growth. Types of Dragon Tree Although there are several varieties of dragon tree, the most commonly found at plant stores (and used as household plants) include: Dracaena marginata 'Tricolor': This varietal has dark red margins, green leaves, and an ivory stripe down the leaf center. D. marginata 'Colorama': This dragon tree may appear to be completely pink, but it's actually variegated with white and green stripes. It will need very bright light to keep its unique colors. D. marginata 'Bicolor': True to its name, this dragon tree varietal has red and green stripes. Pruning It's perfectly normal for a dragon tree to self-shed dead leaves—just pick them up and discard them. To keep the plant trimmed and neat, remove leaves that look like they are about to fall off or cut back stems with sterile, sharp pruning shears to tidy up the tree. Sterilize your pruning tool with a clean rag doused in a common household item, such as rubbing alcohol or hydrogen peroxide, then rinse with water, and wipe the tool dry before using it on your plant. Propagating Dragon Tree You can propagate your dragon tree using stem cuttings rooted in water. It's so easily done that the varietal is often used in dish gardens and readily propagated by nurseries and retailers. It's best to do this in the spring when the plant is growing vigorously. It takes just about three weeks for the cuttings to sprout roots, and using a rooting hormone isn’t necessary. Using a sterile, sharp scissor, cut a long length of stem that's about 8 inches. Remove any low-hanging leaves. Put the cutting in moistened potting soil. Place the cutting in bright, but indirect sunlight. Once new leaves have sprouted, you'll know the plant has grown some new roots, and you can care for the plant as usual. Propagating Tip Looking for the best pruners to propagate your dragon tree? We tested over 25 top-rated pruners in our Lab, and we're sure they work great to take a cutting off your tree. Potting and Repotting Dragon Tree Make sure to check your dragon tree at least once a year to see if it should be repotted into a bigger pot. Check the bottom of the container for roots coming through the drainage holes, which is a sign that the tree is root-bound and in need of a larger container. Choose a new pot with a diameter about 2 inches larger than its current container. Make sure that it has one or more drainage holes. Because these trees grow so slowly, they generally require repotting only every second—or even third—year. In the meantime, you can refresh the potting soil annually to replace any of the mixture that has become compacted. Planters for Dragon Tree Plants When checking your dragon tree plant annually, you'll likely have to size up a planter for repotting. Here are our favorite indoor planters to pick from. To prevent overwatering, you can also go with one of these self-watering planters. Common Pests Although they are fairly disease-resistant, dragon trees are susceptible to scale insects, mealybugs, and thrips.3 Mealybugs are easy to identify as they leave small, sticky, cottony deposits on the leaves of the tree. Dragon tree plants are also at risk of acquiring the common plant pest, spider mites.4 They tend to occur when temperatures are warm and the air is very dry; however, mites are very difficult to see until they have already damaged the plant. Common Problems with Dragon Tree While dragon trees are fairly easy to maintain, there are a few things to watch for. Leaves Falling Off Overwatering can cause the leaves of dragon trees to become yellow and fall off. These trees are sensitive to excessive moisture in their roots. To avoid this, check the soil regularly. If the top 2 inches of soil feel too wet, it's a sign that you may have gone too far with watering. Drooping Leaves If you notice the leaves of your dragon tree drooping, it could be a sign that the plant is thirsty. You should avoid waiting for the plant to dry out completely before watering it. If the lower leaves are drooping significantly more than the rest of the plant, it could be a symptom of root rot. To avoid any problems, also ensure that you are not over-watering the plant. Brown Leaves or Leaf Tips If the soil is too moist or too dry, dragon tree leaves may start to brown. Make sure you're striking the right balance when irrigating. Additionally, lack of humidity can lead to browning tips and eventual leaf loss. Improve humidity by placing the plant on a dish filled with pebbles and water or use a humidifier. If the plant develops brown tips on its leaves, that's usually a sign the water you're using has too much salt or fluoride, which can cause discoloration. Water your dragon tree with distilled or non-fluoridated water to avoid fluoride buildup. Crispy Leaves If you notice that the foliage on your dragon tree is crunchy, it could be a sign that the plant is receiving too much direct sunlight. When exposed to bright light, the leaves can curl and become crispy. Keep the plant in indirect sunlight or partial shade for best results. Yellowing Leaves In some instances, you may notice the leaves of your dragon tree turning yellow, which could be the result of too much direct sun. The leaves can scorch, become discolored, and start to droop.2 Move the plant to a spot receiving more indirect or filtered sun before excess light causes permanent damage. Yellowing leaves could also be a sign the plant needs more or less water. Make sure you strike the right balance.

Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla) is not an actual pine tree, despite the name. Rather, these plants are a relative of the monkey puzzle tree. It is often cultivated as a landscape tree in subtropical climates in North America (USDA zones 10 to 11) and grown indoors elsewhere as a manageable indoor tree, where they grow around three to eight feet tall or can be trained as a bonsai or miniature tree. Outdoors the Norfolk Island pine can grow up to 200 feet tall outdoors. Whether grown inside or outdoors, the Norfolk pine requires copious amounts of light to survive. In other regions, the slow-growing Norfolk Island pine is often grown as a living Christmas tree, frequently decorated with ribbons or ornaments. All too often, the tree is discarded after the holiday season, but it can easily be kept as a permanent foliage plant indoors or planted outdoors when it warms up in the spring. Norfolk Island Pine Care The main care requirements for a Norfolk Island Pine are fairly straightforward. Plant in a location that gets full sun. Locate your tree in an area with temperatures above 35°F. Water your Norfolk Pine at least every two weeks indoors. Mist your plant daily if it is potted indoors. Test your tree's soil pH and amend for acidic soil. Norfolk Island pines are capable of growing both indoors and outdoors. While they have preferred growing conditions, they are quite forgiving and can thrive in various settings. Light A Norfolk Island pine needs sun, preferring full sun whenever possible. A south-facing window is ideal. Norfolk Island pines can also handle relatively long periods (months at a time) in dimmer conditions. You can keep your potted plant indoors during the winter and then move it to a sunny spot outdoors when the summer comes around. If your plant begins to stretch while growing inside, the odds are that the combination of low light and heavy fertilizer is causing leggy growth. In that case, cut back on the fertilizer until the plant has more access to sunlight. It's helpful to turn it frequently, so every side gets equal light. Soil If growing Norfolk Island pine indoors, use a potting mix that is porous, sandy, and slightly acidic. Adding extra peat moss and sand to a standard potting mix will improve acidity and porosity. Grown outside, it prefers soil that is rich, sandy, and acidic. These are acid-loving plants, preferring a pH in the 4.5 to 5.5 range. You can check your soil pH with an easy-to-do test, which will help keep your tree happy and healthy for a long time. Water Water your Norfolk Island pine regularly, keeping the soil damp but not soggy. Indoors, it should be watered every one to two weeks, until excess moisture starts draining out of the bottom of the pot. Outdoor Norfolk pine trees prefer the soil to remain somewhat moist. Once established, it will tolerate somewhat dry conditions. Temperature and Humidity Because they are native to the South Pacific, Norfolk Island pines prefer warmer, wetter climates between 65°F and 70°F. They can briefly survive cooler and warmer temperatures but may perish if they experience temperatures below 35°F. If you want to give your Norfolk pine some extra love, use a humidifier to help increase the humidify around the plant. Fertilizer Feed your Norfolk Island pine with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season, although it is best to suspend fertilizing in low-light periods. A 20-20-20 NPK formulation will work fine, but to add the acidity that the Norfolk Island pine loves so much, you can look for proprietary fertilizers specially formulated for conifers or azaleas. Norfolk Island pines—especially younger trees—have notoriously weak root systems. To strengthen their roots, make sure you're supplying regular fertilizer, and don't hesitate to stake your tree up if it needs support. Potting and Repotting Norfolk Island Pines A potted Norfolk Island pine only needs to be repotted when it's root-bound or the roots are beginning to come out of the drainage hole. Young Norfolk Island pines are not very fast growers, so you'll likely only need to repot it every few years. Repot your Norfolk Island pine in the springtime. If your plant has attained a larger size, choose a heavy pot to help keep the tree from falling over. Make sure the pot is only a couple of inches larger than the one the plant is coming from, with plenty of drainage holes. Types of Norfolk Island Pines There is only one variety of Norfolk Island pine on the market: Araucaria heterophylla. This plant does not have cultivars or named varieties. A few other species from this family sometimes show up in the trade, mislabeled as the original plant. These include A. columnaris, A. araucana, and A. bidwillii. It's unlikely you'll see these, but if you happen to acquire one, the cultural requirements are similar. Pruning Remove lower branches that have died—a common issue with indoor specimens. It is usually not recommended to trim the top of the tree, but if a potted tree gets too large for its space, cut off the central leader. This will cause the tree to branch out from that point, and while the plant will lose the classic evergreen look, such trimming usually does not affect the health of the tree. Remove dead and diseased branches from trees grown outdoors, but other than this, no routine pruning is necessary. How to Grow Norfolk Island Pine From Seed Norfolk Island pine best propagates by seed. Collect the seeds. Break apart the spherical cones after they fall from the tree to remove the seeds. Plant them soon after. Place seeds on soil. Place seeds flat on the soil surface in a container at least 12 inches deep. The ideal soil mix is a moist, peaty, sandy mix. Don't cover the seeds with soil. Mist and wait. Mist the seeds to encourage germination, which should occur in 10 to 15 days. Set pot in bright, indirect light. Place the pot in a spot that gets bright, indirect light. If growing outdoors, choose a location that gets partial sun, with only three to four hours of direct sun. Care for as usual after germination. A tap root and top growth are signs the seed has germinated. Once the seedlings have a tap root and growth, keep the soil moist and care for as usual. Tip Do not attempt to propagate a Norfolk Island pine by taking a cutting; it is not recommended since new growth does not grow back in its place like other plants.12 Overwintering Norfolk pines love the warm weather and can't tolerate temperatures below 35 degrees Fahrenheit. When it is faced with frost, the plant will begin to yellow and die. Bring a potted tree indoors if it's not already, and keep it away from drafts. Place it in a room with high humidity (difficult to do in a dry home during the winter) and full, bright sunlight. Water only when the surface of the soil is dry to the touch. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Norfolk Island Pines are vulnerable to pests including aphids, mealybugs, scale, mites, and whiteflies.3 If possible, identify the infestation as early as possible and treat it with the least toxic option. A Norfolk pine may also develop a fungal disease from overwatering, such as anthracnose, which can turn entire sections of the tree yellow, brown, and then cause the plant to die. Common Problems With Norfolk Island Pines This easy-going tree may encounter a few challenges in its life. The needles will turn different colors to alert you to a problem. Needles Turning Brown The tree can't tolerate cold, but it also can't tolerate extreme heat. Wide temperature fluctuations can cause the needles to brown. Brown needles may also indicate that the plant is being overwatered or underwatered, too. Needles Turning Yellow If the needles turn yellow, the tree may not be getting enough sunlight. Or, it could be getting too much sunlight. Extreme changes in temperature may also be the culprit turning the needles yellow. Needles Dropping Needles will drop for two reasons: Your tree is either being overwatered or it's not given enough light.

You might recognize the lemon cypress as the potted evergreen that seems to show up in every big box retail store before Christmas. However, this narrow, columnar evergreen tree is more than a lemon-scented holiday plant for indoors. It is a versatile needled conifer that can be used as a hedge, specimen, bonsai, or kept in a container on a patio. Also commonly referred to as the Goldcrest Monterey Cypress, Cupressus macrocarpa ‘Goldcrest’ (also known as Hesperocyparis macrocarpa) is a Monterey cypress cultivar with upward-growing branches. The unique yellow-green color of the lemon cypress can play off the darker greens of other conifers, while texture can be experimented with by placing the shrub next to boulders and fencing. Lemon Cypress Care One of the great things about C. macrocarpa ‘Goldcrest’ is that it is an easy plant to care for. Provide full sun to partial shade. Do not enrich the soil. Water a new plant weekly until established. Light Lemon trees require a good amount of light. Outdoors, a lemon cypress tree should be planted in full sun to partial shade. Indoors, the tree needs 5 to 6 hours of indirect sunlight or morning sun; don't put it in a wast-facing window, or risk harming the foliage. Soil The lemon cypress is adapted to grow in poor, sandy, well-draining soils that are low in organics and not very fertile. This poor soil allows the slow-growing tree to pace its development to match its height with its roots, helping to ensure that winds do not blow the thin and narrow plant over. Water As an outdoor shrub or tree, once established, the lemon cypress needs little supplemental watering. Allow the plant to establish itself by watering it once a week during the first season. If kept as a houseplant, give it a thorough deep watering weekly, ensuring the soil is never too dry. Temperature and Humidity A lemon cypress prefers cool, moist climates with temperatures between 20°F and 80°F. Grown indoors, the lemon cypress needs to be kept in a place with sufficient humidity. Fertilizer Don't fertilize a lemon cypress tree. It's native environment has poor soil conditions, and rich soils will cause quick, uneven growth and could result in an unstable tree. Types of Lemon Cypress In addition to the straight species. Cupressus macrocarpa. a few cultivars of Monterey cypress have been bred: C. macrocarpa 'Goldcrest Wilma': a slow-growing dwarf cultivar, 6 to 8 ft. tall, and 1 to 2 ft. wide, with fragrant, golden yellow needles C. macrocarpa 'Golden Pillar': with golden yellow needles when grown in a sunny location, and a mature size of 20 ft. tall and 4 ft. wide C. macrocarpa 'Citriodora': a slow-growing cultivar that can reach 15 to 30 ft. in height. New growth is bright yellow and turns deep green in the first year. Pruning Lemon cypress looks best in its natural, untrimmed, slow-growing upright shape. The only regular pruning maintenance required is when the lemon cypress is used as a hedge, bonsai, or topiary. In these cases, it needs to be done carefully and in a timely fashion. This shrub, like most conifers, does not take well to hard pruning. Pruning Tip Looking for the best pruners for your lemon cypresses? We tested 8 top-rated pruners in our Lab to make sure your shrubs stay happy and healthy. Propagating Lemon Cypress The best time for propagating lemon cypress from cuttings is in the winter. Here's how it's done: Cut a piece of stem about 4 inches long. Strip the foliage off the bottom part of the stem so the first 2 inches are bare. Moisten the cut end and dip it in rooting hormone. Add moist, well-draining potting mix to a small pot. Use a pencil to poke a hole in the soil mix and insert the cutting. Cover the pot with a plastic bag and use sticks to keep the plastic in place. Make sure the plastic does not touch the cutting. Place the pot in a warm location away from direct sunlight. Water it as needed to keep it evenly moist. When the cutting has developed a good root system—you'll know it's there when the stem does not move if you gently tug on it—it's time to remove the plastic bag, move the pot to a sunny location, and let the sapling continue to grow in the container, or transplant it outdoors. How to Grow Lemon Cypress From Seeds Most lemon cypress trees are cultivars and propagating them from seed does not produce a plant with the same features as the parent, therefore, propagation from seed is not recommended. Potting and Repotting Lemon Cypress Excellent drainage is crucial for lemon cypress so make sure the pot you use has large drain holes. Terracotta pots are ideal because they let air get to the roots but the pots also dry out faster so adjust the watering frequency accordingly. If keeping the lemon cypress in a container, it should be repotted once every three to four years. Move it to a larger pot at least one inch wider than the old pot and backfill with fresh potting mix. Prune the roots conservatively to keep growth in check while repotting. Overwintering Even when grown in a temperature range where it can be grown outdoors, cold winter winds burn the needles so the tree needs some protection. Below USDA zone 7, lemon cypress is best grown in a container and brought indoors during the winter. Keep the humidity around it high by adding a humidifier to the area and place it away from any drafts or heaters. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Cypress is prone to attacks by aphids, mealybugs, caterpillars, and scale insects. These usually don't affect the overall health of the tree and can be controlled with insecticidal soap.1 A more serious problem is coryneum canker, a fungus that can kill the tree. To keep it under control, remove infected branches promptly and dispose of them in the trash.1 Common Problems With Lemon Cypress After pruning a potted lemon cypress, you might notice that the tips of the pruned branches turn brown. That is part of the natural process and the brown spots should be disguised in due time by new bushy growth.

Avocado trees (Persea americana) are a great plant to grow if you live in the southern tip of the United States or father south. These plants are best grown outdoors as they can reach up to 60 feet in height. These evergreen fruit trees are best known for their delicious fruit, the avocado. Though the fruit may be the main draw for many growers, avocado trees are also quite beautiful because of their thick, bright green foliage and add ornamental value to any outdoor space. However, if it’s the fruit you’re after, these plants need warmth and space for the best results. How to Plant an Avocado Tree It is best to plant avocado trees outdoors in the spring, allowing ample time to become established before winter temperatures arrive. Plant your avocado tree in a location with plenty of sunlight and well-draining soil. If soil conditions are less than ideal, amend the soil with sand or another well-draining substrate before planting. The trees are vulnerable to high winds, so immature trees may benefit from support. Try choosing a planting location that offers wind protection to help keep your tree upright and healthy. All avocado trees should be planted at least 10 feet away from structures. The avocado tree's root system is sensitive, so try not to disturb the roots during planting. Dig a hole that is wider than the root structure and the same height as the root ball. Tip Avocado trees grown from seed (avocado pits) will not produce the same fruit as the mother. Purchasing a young tree and growing it will yield fruit easier and faster. Avocado Tree Care Light Like most tropical plants, the avocado tree thrives on a lot of sunshine. Plant this tree in a location where it can receive at least eight hours of sunlight every day. These trees can tolerate partial shade, but grow best and produce more fruits when kept in full sun. Soil Avocado trees prefer rich, loamy, and well-draining soil. A soil pH that is acidic to neutral, between 5 and 7, is ideal. These trees are sensitive to alkaline soil. Adding a layer of mulch around the tree can help the soil retain the right amount of moisture and will offer protection to the avocado tree's shallow root system. Don't mulch any closer than six inches from the trunk. Water Avocado trees benefit from infrequent, deep watering. This encourages deeper, stronger root growth. Wait until the soil begins to dry out, then water deeply. During the summer months, the avocado tree will require more frequent watering. Young trees also require more frequent watering as they become established. Mature trees should receive around two inches of water per week. Temperature and Humidity These famous fruit trees can only be grown outdoors in USDA hardiness zones 9 through 11, limiting an avocado tree to climates that are tropical and subtropical, unless grown indoors. They are frost-sensitive and grow best in temperatures between 50-85ºF. Though prolonged temperatures 30ºF or below will be too cold for avocado trees, they should be able to withstand an occasional, very brief freeze. Fertilizer You should fertilize an avocado tree starting in the late winter to early spring and feed until the fall, depending on the specific instructions included with your chosen fertilizer. Fertilizers specifically designed for avocado or citrus trees work best. Pollination For the best pollination, it is ideal to have two avocado trees, as flowers have male and female parts but they open at separate times, making self-pollination is unlikely. Avocado trees are considered either type A or type B, and each type opens its flowers parts at different times of day. These different times make cross-pollination between the two types possible. When choosing which trees to plant, be sure you have both type A and type B for best results. How to Grow Avocado Trees From Seed Starting an avocado tree from seed is a fun, simple project. However, it is important to keep in mind that seeds will not produce trees identical to the parent tree. To do this, you will need an avocado seed, a jar of water, toothpicks, a sharp knife, a small pot, and well-draining potting soil. Using a sharp knife, poke three or four holes around the circumference of the avocado seed. Poke the toothpicks into the holes, which will create the support needed to suspend the seed in water. Submerge the thick, or bottom end, of the seed into the water. Around one-third of the seed should be in the water. Place the seed in a sunny location and change the water daily. After a few weeks, roots should form and leaves should appear at the top of the seed. Once this occurs, gently plant the seed in well-draining soil. Types of Avocado Trees All avocado trees stem from three main varieties: Mexican, West Indian, and Guatemalan. Within these categories, there are several avocado varieties available. Hass: One of the most popular avocado varieties, the Hass avocado is often found in grocery stores. This is a type A tree that produces thick, bumpy-skinned, rich, and creamy fruits. It is more sensitive to heat than other varieties. Hass avocado trees are known to produce a reasonably sized yield when grown on their own. Fuerte: Also a widely known avocado type, the Fuerte avocado is a type B tree often grown with Hass avocados. These trees produce large, oval-shaped fruits with relatively smooth, thin skin. These trees are also more sensitive to heat, making them a good fit for the northern borders of the avocado's growing zones. Pinkerton: This type A, Guatemalan tree is popular for its smaller size and large fruit yield. It produces oblong fruits with flesh similar to the Hass avocado—rich and creamy. These trees require a type B avocado tree to produce a significant fruit yield. Harvesting Avocados On a healthy outdoor avocado tree, you could harvest upwards of 200 avocados per season. For nursery-bought trees, you can expect to see fruit in three to four years. For avocados started from seed, it may take five to 13 years before fruits appear. When fruits appear, wait until the avocado grows to its mature size. The fruits do not ripen on the tree, so avocados are picked as soon as they are full size. Bring the avocados indoors and let them rest on a counter until ripe. How to Grow Avocado Trees in Pots Avocados can be grown in pots outdoors, though it will stifle their growth. (They can also be grown indoors in pots.) This is ideal for small yards or gardens near the northern edge of the avocado’s growing zones, as potted trees can be moved to a protected area when cold weather arrives. Young trees or dwarf varieties are ideal for growing in pots as these will stay small for some time. Planting Tip When choosing a container, be sure it drains well and has unobstructed drainage holes, ideally a terracotta pot since it's more breathable. Pruning If avocado trees are grown from seed, start pruning when the seedling is only six inches tall, snipping off the top pair of the leaves. When it reaches a foot in height, trim it back six inches. After this, prune the tree yearly. Mature trees require occasional pruning. Light pruning can be done any time of year, though heavy pruning should be done in the early spring. Prune thick areas to ensure adequate light and airflow. Cut back any dead wood and trim away V-shaped branches. Don't take off more than one-third of the length of each branch. Pruning Tip Looking for the best pruners for your avocado trees? We tested 8 top-rated pruners in our Lab to make sure your trees stay happy and healthy. Propagating Avocado Trees Propagation is often done through grafting, layering, or cuttings. Grafting is often done to combine the desirable qualities of two different varieties of avocados while layering and starting cuttings are done to produce duplicate trees. Here’s how to perform each method of propagation: Propagating an Avocado Tree From Cuttings You will need sharp snips, moist and well-draining potting soil, a small pot, and IBA rooting hormone. In the spring, select new growth that is five to six inches long and has several leaves that have not opened. Using sharp snips, cut the new growth branch at a 45-degree angle. Wound the cut end by scraping at the bark on either side of the cutting. This will encourage root production. Dip the cutting into IBA rooting hormone. Bury the cut end into moist, well-draining soil. Keep the soil moist and place the cutting in a sunny area. After a couple of weeks, gently tug the cutting to check for resistance, which indicates root growth. Repot the cutting into a larger pot or outdoors. Grafting an Avocado Tree You will need sharp snips, a sharp knife, and something to cover the grafted area, such as grafting tape. Follow steps one and two as if you are taking a cutting. Remove the tip of the cutting, along with any leaves that are present. Then, wound the tree you would like to graft onto by removing a section of bark. Make sure the cambium of the cutting and the cambium of the tree are touching. Secure the cutting onto the tree with grafting tape, making sure to cover the exposed areas. In a few weeks, the grafted branch and the main tree should be fused together. Air Layering an Avocado Tree You will need a sharp knife, a rooting medium that can be wrapped around a branch, and rope or tape to secure the rooting medium around the tree. Select the branch you would like to take as a new tree. Using a clean knife, cut two circles around the branch to create a section of bark that can be peeled away. Once the bark is removed, scrape the inner branch to clean the cambium away. Wrap the exposed inner branch with rooting material, such as compost in a small bag (make sure the compost is wrapping the branch, not the bag) or another rooting medium. Secure around the branch with rope or tape. In several weeks, roots should develop. When this occurs, remove the bag, cut the branch off below the formed roots, and plant the new tree. Overwintering When grown in the appropriate zones, avocado trees do not require extra care during the winter unless the area experiences a frost. Protect the tree from a cold front by wrapping it loosely in burlap and adding extra soil at the base of its trunk until the frost has passed. For trees grown on the northern edges of their growing zones, it is best to keep them in pots so they can be moved to an area protected from cold weather. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Common pests that may bother an avocado tree include mites, caterpillars, borers, lace bugs, and thrips. Diseases include root rot, fruit rot, sun blotch, and cankers. Be alert to the presence of these pests or early signs of disease. Prompt action is the best way to remedy any developing problems before they threaten the health of your avocado tree.

Ginseng ficus is commonly used for bonsai, particularly for its narrow elevated roots that swell into a potbelly trunk and thin at the branches before spreading out to the crown. Ginseng ficus is a tropical plant native to Southeast Asia and is a member of the Moraceae or mulberry family. Ginseng ficus grows best in acidic to neutral soil with higher humidity and full sun from a nearby window. The sap from this plant is toxic to humans, and touching it can cause skin irritation and allergic reactions; wash hands after touching it.1 Ginseng ficus is toxic to dogs and cats. Ginseng Ficus Bonsai Care Here are the main care requirements for growing a ginseng ficus bonsai: Grows best with warmth and humidity; avoid drafts. Prefers bright, indirect sun. Give water when the soil dries out. Provide fertilizer on a regular schedule once a month. Light Your bonsai will need six to eight hours of light. Indoors, placing it on a windowsill is a good idea. If this is not available, grow lights can aid in growing your ginseng ficus. If you take your tree outdoors during the summer, plan to place it in a spot with plenty of sunlight but not too much afternoon sun. The bonsai will not tolerate shade at all. Soil Ginseng ficus trees do well in a soil mix of sixty percent aggregate and forty percent organic matter. You can buy a premix or make your own using pine bark, lava rock, and a product called akadama, which holds water and slowly breaks down over time. Water Water your ginseng ficus thoroughly whenever the soil gets slightly dry, but do not water it to the point where the bonsai is dripping or fungal issues may occur. More frequent watering will be needed if your plant is in a hot environment. Cleaning Your Plant Take a damp paper towel and carefully wipe the leaves off when they get dusty. You can also use a spray bottle to mist the leaves before wiping, though this does nothing for your plant's actual water intake. Temperature and Humidity The ginseng ficus is an indoor bonsai and is not frost-hardy. It can be brought outside once temperatures are consistently above 60°F but must be kept in the sun and not allowed to dry out. Low humidity can be tolerated due to the waxy surface covering the ficus’ leaves, but it will thrive in a humid environment. Fertilizer Bonsai draw on very little soil, so it is necessary to replenish their nutrients occasionally. Any multi-purpose liquid fertilizer available at your friendly local nursery or garden center should be adequate. For bonsai, dilute the mixture by 50% with water before applying monthly. Using Ginseng Ficus as a Bonsai For newcomers to the ancient Japanese art of bonsai, a great place to start is with a ginseng ficus. It looks terrific and requires minimal care compared to other bonsai, which can be challenging to maintain. Bonsai artists especially focus on the raised roots of these funky little plants to create a particular aesthetic. In their natural habitat, these aerial roots grow easily in high-humidity environments. The effect is achieved by roots growing vertically downward from branches until they reach the soil, developing into thick, strong trunks. This can achieve the desired pillar style or the root-over-rock bonsai style, deshojo. Training a Bonsai To train your plant, use anodized aluminum or annealed copper wire. Wiring your ficus’ thin and medium branches is easy since they are flexible and bend easily. Ensure the wires are not cutting into the tree and readjust if needed. For larger branches, guy wires will be necessary and must stay on the tree much longer. Ficus trees are unique in that they can fuse their branches, roots, and other ficus plants. Pruning Pruning is necessary and part of what makes a bonsai a bonsai, not just a plant. You can forego the pruning for a year or longer to achieve a thicker trunk. When ready to prune leaves, an excellent rule is to prune back to two leaves after six to eight leaves have grown. New shoots will grow from old wood if you have left the trunk to thicken. But be sure to tend to any substantial wounds with cut paste so disease does not occur. Always use sharp and clean tools when working with your plant. Pruning Tip Looking for the best pruners for your ginseng ficus bonsai? We tested over 10 top-rated pruning shears in our Lab to make sure your plants stay happy and healthy. Propagating Ginseng Ficus Bonsai Ginseng ficus, aka ficus retusa, can easily be propagated, and there's no better time to do that than after you've pruned it. Here's how: Simply select a healthy stem and cut a 6-inch cutting with scissors or pruning shears. Put the cutting in a container that has been prepared with potting soil mix, and then water it. Place a clear plastic bag over the cuttings to create a greenhouse effect, keeping the moisture in and encouraging it to root. Water lightly every few days, making sure the soil stays moist. The cutting should root in a few weeks. Potting and Repotting Ginseng Ficus Bonsai Repotting a bonsai must happen when the root system has filled the pot. It needs to be done to give the tree new soil and to encourage a more compact root system. You will only need to repot your ficus every other year during the summer. Simply remove the tree and soil from its pot and trim its roots' outer and lower quarters. Be careful not to over-prune or remove too much root material. Place the bonsai into the original pot or a new container using the bonsai soil mix. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Caring for your ginseng ficus bonsai properly, with the correct lighting and water, will keep it strong and more resistant to pests and plant diseases. However, the ginseng ficus can get spider mites, scale, mealybugs, and aphids. Use neem oil or a liquid dishwashing soap and water mixture to remove the pests. Root rot, a fungal disease, can be a problem for ginseng ficus If overwatered. If you see any white or black spots on the leaves, trim them off and treat the bonsai with a fungicide. Common Problems With Ginseng Ficus Bonsai Ginseng ficus is easy to maintain when given the right growing conditions. Losing Leaves or Wilting Water issues, such as too much or insufficient, can cause ginseng ficus to drop its leaves. Keep the top inch of soil moist but not soggy. Leaves that are underwatered will appear wilted but should plump up again after giving water. Yellowing Leaves All leaves will eventually turn yellow and die, but prematurely yellowing leaves can be caused by overwatering or a fungal infection, like root rot.

Magnolia trees are versatile landscape plants with hundreds of species and cultivars ranging from dwarf types at 6 to 12 feet up to the towering 80-foot Southern Magnolia, M. grandiflora. With a wide range of bloom times and flower size and color, one can be found to fit every yard and garden. When Do Magnolia Trees Bloom? Flowering occurs according to species and climate with blooms in late winter, spring, summer or autumn. Some varieties bloom more than once for two to three weeks. Others produce flowers before they leaf out. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! What to Know About Magnolia Trees Growing Season Magnolias may be deciduous or evergreen with most evergreen types hardy to zone 7. Evergreen varieties are cultivars of the Southern magnolia, blooming from spring to early summer with large, white flowers continuing sporadically throughout summer. Deciduous and semi-evergreen species and their cultivars grow in zones 3 and higher with a wider range of bloom periods and flower color and size. M. grandiflora 'Little Gem': A dwarf evergreen cultivar, Little Gem blooms in May with a primary flush that continues sparser into July. It's a slow grower maturing at 20 to 25 feet tall and 12 to 15 feet wide. Flowers are creamy white up to 12 inches in diameter. M. grandiflora 'Samuel Sommer': This evergreen variety produces some of the largest flowers up to 14 inches across. A spring flush of creamy, white flowers slows in summer with a second autumn flush in ideal climates. Samuel Sommer matures at 35 to 40 feet with a 20- to 30-foot spread. M. grandiflora 'Edith Bogue': An evergreen cold hardy to -15°F, 'Edith Bogue' thrives in zones 6 to 9. Lemon scented, white blooms appear late spring through early August depending on climate. Trees mature at 40 feet tall with a 30 foot spread. M. virginiana 'Sweet Bay': At heights and spreads of 10 to 35 feet, Sweet Bay magnolia and it's cultivars grow as large shrubs or small trees. Native to the eastern U.S., varieties feature smaller 3-inch, white flowers in May and June. This is a semi-evergreen species with some cultivars evergreen as low as zone 4. M. soulangeana 'Saucer Magnolia': This deciduous magnolia and its cultivars are the most commonly grown varieties. They bloom early from March to mid-April with sporadic flowering through summer. 6-inch flowers open before foliage in white, pink, rose, purple, magenta or burgundy. Mature sizes range from 20 to 25 feet tall and wide. M. stellata 'Star Magnolia': Noted for its compact size and star-shaped, white flowers, this magnolia blooms late winter to early spring. It matures at 10 to 20 feet with an 8- to 15-foot spread. Flowers measure 4 inches across in shades of white, pink and purple. Ideal Growing Conditions for Magnolia Trees to Bloom Review care requirements for specific varieties to ensure they'll flourish and bloom in your climate. Certain cultivars adapt well to wetlands, coastal or urban areas. Here are general growing conditions. Moist, well-draining loam with a slightly acidic pH of 5.5 to 6.5 is ideal. Allow soil to dry out slightly in between watering. Sweetbay magnolias can thrive in boggy soil. The majority of magnolias do not like standing water and become drought tolerant when mature. Water newly planted trees two to three times a week. Plants may require additional watering during bloom periods. For finest flowering, provide six hours of direct sun exposure daily. Some cultivars prefer afternoon shade in hot climates, however the better light you give them, the better they'll bloom. Overall health of your tree depends on its hardiness zones. However, late cold snaps can damage buds and reduce flowering. Ideal temperatures for blooming fall between 60°F and and 75°F. Heat stress at 90°F can reduce flowers and shorten the bloom period. 5 Great Magnolia Trees Care Tips Magnolias make up the largest group of plants in the magnoliaceae family with as many as 340 species and numerous cultivars. These flowering trees and shrubs thrive in diverse environments with a wide range of bloom times, sizes, growth habits and flower color. Do your research and choose a magnolia variety suited to your climate and growing zone. Support flowering by adding compost or well-rotted manure in early spring. Or spread a balanced, slow release formula such as an NPK 10-10-10 out to the dripline. Protect early blooming varieties from late frost which may cause bud and flower loss. Lightly prune after flowering to remove dead or crossing branches. Hard pruning reduces flowering. Spent flowers usually drop making deadheading unnecessary. Mulch to protect shallow roots, retain soil moisture and discourage weeds.

Magnolia trees are among the most popular flowering trees available, and it’s not hard to see why. Their large, showy blooms welcome spring every year, and their dense canopy of lush green leaves is often used to provide privacy or shade in landscapes. But not everyone enjoys these classic flowering trees, regardless of their beauty. They are known for being messy and requiring regular maintenance due to falling debris like leaves and petals. Magnolias also have shallow root systems, which can be a problem in areas that frequently experience severe weather events, as these trees can be more prone to damage. Additionally, if you’re on a quest to grow trees and plants native to the United States, unfortunately, magnolias don’t make the cut, says Anna Ohler, owner at Bright Lane Gardens. If you love the idea of a flowering tree but are not set on the upkeep that a magnolia tree may require, we’ve got you covered. Here are seven flowering trees to grow instead of magnolias that are just as beautiful, as recommended by gardening pros. 01 of 07 Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida) If you want a flowering tree that is also a native species, you can’t go wrong with the flowering dogwood (Cornus florida). These stunning trees boast delicate pink or white flowers in the spring, berries in the summer, and colorful fall foliage. They are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9 and are known for being relatively tidy, low-maintenance trees. The only downside? If you’re looking for a full-sun alternative to magnolias, flowering dogwoods probably aren’t the best fit. Ohler says most dogwood species prefer partial shade. 02 of 07 Crabapple (Malus spp.) Crabapples are a wildlife favorite, according to urban forester Ben Heusinkvelt. These small to medium-sized trees produce a spectacular display of flowers each year in the spring, followed by small tart fruits. There are many different species and cultivars to choose from, with several being native to North America if that’s your priority. These trees thrive in full-sun conditions, making them a great alternative to magnolias. “These cold hardy trees are drought tolerant once established and offer a flowering spectacle comparable to a magnolia," Heusinkvelt says. "One whiff of a blooming crabapple and you will be in love." 03 of 07 Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis) Contrary to the name, Eastern redbuds (Cercis canadensis) produce light purple-pink blooms that create a dazzling display in the early weeks of spring. For the best show of blooms, Eastern redbuds should be grown in a bright, sunny location, although they can tolerate part shade as well. They are hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8, with many cultivars. “There are many cultivars of the redbud, including weeping (Weeping Falls) and multi-colored foliage versions (Forest Pansy or Rising Sun)," Heusinkvelt says. "A lesser common variety is a white version known as simply a “Whitebud” (c. Canadensis.f alba.)." 04 of 07 Japanese Lilac Tree (Syringa reticulata) If you love lilac shrubs, Japanese lilac trees (Syringa reticulata) are a great choice. These unique ornamental trees are closely related to their shrubby cousins with creamy white blooms that are similar in form, but are known for blooming later, according to Heusinkvelt. Japanese lilacs grow best in full sun and are hardy in USDA zones 3 to 7. 05 of 07 Serviceberry (Amelanchier) Another native variety to love is serviceberry (Amelanchier). This genus includes about twenty deciduous trees and shrubs native to North America. These plants offer year-round interest, with flowers appearing in the spring, colorful berries in the summer, and striking fall foliage as temperatures cool. “The only downside is the spring flower display doesn't last quite as long as the magnolia's display does, but since those flowers are replaced by berries, I still consider it a win overall!” Ohler says. While hardiness zones vary depending on the species, these trees are known for being very cold-hardy. Many varieties tolerate temperatures as low as -30 F. 06 of 07 Japanese Cherry (Prunus serrulata spp.) Aside from magnolias, few other blooming trees are as popular and well-known as Japanese cherries (Prunus serrulata spp.). These trees shine in spring, boasting stunning pink or white blossoms, depending on the variety. Many different species and cultivars are available, but the ‘Kanzan’ and ‘Sekiyama’ cultivars are undoubtedly two of the most popular choices for home landscapes. These trees thrive in cold winters and warm summers and are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 8. 07 of 07 Crepe Myrtles (Lagerstroemia indica) Magnolias are known and beloved for their large volume of blooms, so if you’re looking for a similarly prolific bloomer, crepe myrtles (Lagerstroemia indica) may be your best choice. “A good runner-up as far as the number of blooms per tree is the Crepe Myrtle," says Lisa Tadewaldt, owner of Urban Forest Pro. "They [have] white or pink blooms in spring, depending on the variety." These small trees are known for growing best in warm climates, with most varieties being hardy in USDA zones 6 to 9. However, Tadewaldt says the white-blossomed Natchez variety is good for gardeners in colder regions.

If you're a patient and adventurous gardener, why not grow a date palm (Phoenix canariensis) from seed? This slow-growing, evergreen palm is native to the Canary Islands and reaches 40 to 60 feet tall and 20 to 40 feet wide. If you're not in a tropical climate, it will be more compact if grown as a container plant that can summer outside on a patio and then be brought indoors when temperatures drop. Whether you are lucky enough to collect date palm seeds yourself or use seeds from ripe grocery store dates, we have all the information you need to germinate the seeds, pot them correctly, and grow a robust palm. Potting and Caring for Germinated Date Palm Seeds After your date palm seeds have germinated and begin to show tiny shoots above the potting soil, keep the soil evenly moist but not overly wet. Place the seedlings in a spot that receives bright sunlight for 6 to 8 hours per day. Wait until the seedling is at least three inches high with at least two sets of leaves before moving it to a larger pot. Pick a container. Select a container that is four to six inches in diameter with good drainage holes. Date palms prefer to be slightly rootbound for optimum growth so start with a small container after germination. Fill with soil. Fill the container about one-third full with nutrient-rich, loamy soil. Remove the germinated seed. Use a large spoon or garden trowel to gently lift the root ball of the germinated palm seed. Place the seed in soil. Place the palm in the container and fill it with soil tamping it down lightly to get rid of any air pockets. Water. Water the palm well until water drains from the bottom. Do not leave it sitting in a saucer of water. Move it to an ideal location. Place the palm in a brightly lit, warm spot (around 75°F) to recover from the shock of transplanting. The palm can be kept inside or outside depending on your hardiness zone and time of year. Always Start With a Container If you plan to plant the palm in your garden, it is still best to transplant germinated seeds into a container. Horticulturists recommend waiting until a date palm is around five feet tall before transplanting outside.1 How to Care for a Date Palm Give a container or garden-planted date palm six to eight hours of direct sunlight each day. Young palms should be watered at least weekly to keep the soil moist to encourage growth.2 Once established, the palm will be more drought-tolerant. Potted palms will require more frequent watering, and drainage is important because standing water can cause root rot. When planting or potting, use a nutrient-rich, loose, loamy soil. Established date palms in the garden should be fertilized in early spring and again in mid-summer with a slow-release fertilizer that is high in potassium. Follow the label directions for the amount to use based on the size of the tree. Repot a date palm only when roots are visible through the drainage holes. Spring or early summer are the optimum times to repot because the temperatures are warmer and humidity is higher. Select a new container that is 2 inches wider and deeper. Gently remove the root ball from the container to prevent damaging the roots. Add fresh soil to the new container, place the palm, gently tamp down the soil, and water thoroughly. Date palms require little pruning except to remove dead or damaged fronds. Once the tree reaches maturity, suckers will grow from the base of the tree and should be removed. Once the tree begins to bear fruit, harvest the ripe dates so new clusters will have room to form. Fun Date Palm Facts Fruit production requires both a male and female plant growing near each other. A female date palm produces about 20 pounds of dates. Mature fruits appear in red or orange clusters, oblong and 1 to 3 inches long. It can take around eight years for a date palm to reach maturity. How to Germinate a Date Seed Separate the seed from the flesh of a ripe date. Place the seed in cool water and soak for at least 24 hours. Discard the seed if it floats to the top. Fill a small container with a seed-starting mix and moisten the soil. Press the seed into the soil until it is barely covered with soil. Place the container in a warm spot with bright light. Keep the soil moist by placing a glass jar or plastic bag over the container until germination occurs. The seed should germinate in about one month, at which point they should be potted.

Even in northern climates, homeowners can grow some of the most popular fruit trees in their own backyards, including pear, peach, plum, cherry, and apple trees. But for success in growing fruit trees, you will need to plan carefully and maintain them properly. Good planning will take into consideration the mature height of the tree so that it does not interfere with buildings, power lines, etc. Ensuring full sun and good drainage are two other aspects of sound site election. Once you have planted your fruit tree, supplying it with sufficient irrigation and fertilizer are two of the more important maintenance tasks. In this article, you will learn why, when, and how to fertilize fruit trees. Why Fertilize Fruit Trees? There are three reasons to fertilize fruit trees: For superior quantity in fruit production For superior quality in fruit production For the overall growth and health of the tree When to Fertilize Your Fruit Tree Getting the timing right is very important when fertilizing fruit trees: The best time to fertilize fruit trees is in spring. Wait until about a week before the last frost date for your region. Fertilizing before that may result in a spurt of growth that will only be damaged by the frost. If you forget to fertilize in spring, the second best time to fertilize is in early summer. The worst time that you can fertilize fruit trees is in late summer or early fall. Fertilizing at this time would only promote new growth that will be killed when cold temperatures return. Do not fertilize a fruit tree at the same time as you are planting it. Wait till 3 weeks after planting , then you can lightly fertilize it with a chemical fertilizer. If you want to be ultra-careful, fertilize it with compost, instead.1 If your apple tree or pear tree is mature enough that it is bearing fruit, apply boron to it every three years.2 Have Your Soil Tested To have a soil test performed, you must obtain a small sample of the soil from around the base of your fruit tree. While you can perform the test at home, beginners may prefer to send the sample to their local county extension for a test. The pH level for fruit trees should be between 6 and 6.5. How to Fertilize Your Fruit Tree Don't think that effectively fertilizing a fruit tree is as easy as opening up a bag of fertilizer and pouring some out. Set aside a bit of time so that you can do the job right: Remove grass and weeds from around the tree: If you have any weeds (or grass) growing around your fruit tree, remove them. They will steal some of the fertilizer you will be putting down from your fruit tree. Clear away mulch: If you currently have any mulch around your tree, rake it away to expose the soil surface. For your safety: Wear gloves and goggles. Some fertilizers can irritate the skin or eyes. Obtain the fertilizer: Fertilizers with an NPK of 10-10-10 are widely used for fertilizing fruit trees. Granulated types are easier to work with than others. You don't need to use chemical fertilizers: Organic fertilizers are perfectly acceptable, as long as you are having your soil tested regularly to ensure that it has the nutrients your fruit trees need. Determine how much to apply: Measure the diameter of the fruit tree's trunk. This figure will be used to calculate how much fertilizer to use. Apply 1 pound of fertilizer for every inch of diameter. Common sense comes into play, too: The tree's performance will let you know if you are not using enough. Err on the side of too little. Using too much fertilizer may result in excessive vegetation, which causes the center of the tree to be shaded. The result can be disease (from too little air circulation) and reduced fruit production. Apply the fertilizer: One reason granulated fertilizers are easier to work with is you do not have to mix them with water to apply them. Broadcast the granulated 10-10-10 fertilizer evenly, starting 1 to 2 feet away from the trunk and ending where the tips of the branches extend to (the "drip line"). Rake the fertilizer: Gently rake the fertilizer into the soil. Mulch your fruit tree: Put back the mulch (if any) that you had raked away from the tree. Add new garden mulch to this. Aim to create a 3-inch layer of mulch in all. Keep the mulch 6 inches to a foot away from the base of the tree, depending on the size of the tree. Mulch will not only suppress weeds but also conserve moisture and regulate soil temperature. Water: Water the area so that the fertilizer will sink into the ground.

With some plants, pruning is optional. This is not true of many fruit trees. Not only must you prune them for fruit production, but you also must prune them in just the right way. People often fear that they are cutting off too many branches, when, in reality, they probably are not doing enough pruning. Proper pruning stimulates fruit trees to bear fruit. Learn why, when, and how to prune fruit trees. Why You Need to Prune Fruit Trees There are three main reasons for pruning fruit trees, in addition to stimulating fruit production: For pest and disease prevention: For example, a basic rule of pruning is called "the 3 D's": Always remove dead, diseased, and damaged limbs whenever you find them to promote plant health. To let the sunshine in: Fruit production is superior when the inside of the canopy is opened up, so that sunlight comes in from all angles. For access: You will need to reach into all areas of the tree both to care for it and to harvest its fruit. Excessive vegetation will make access more difficult When to Prune a Fruit Tree The best time to prune most fruit trees is during their dormant period. Specifically, late winter to early spring is optimal because the coldest period of winter is over (making it easier for the pruning cuts to heal), yet new growth has not emerged yet. There are some exceptions, but the time not to prune (unless it is just to remove dead wood) is in fall, which encourages tender new growth that will only die when winter comes. Pruning Supplies Even if you do not need all of these supplies right away, the serious fruit tree grower should invest in the following pruning tools: Pruners: This is the tool that you will use the most. All small branches to be cut (and there will be many of them) should be cut with pruners. Loppers: Loppers are for the next step up. If you see that a branch is too thick to cut easily with your pruners, switch to loppers. Pruning saw: This tool is for cutting the largest of branches. How to Prune a Fruit Tree You should prune off about 1/5 of your fruit tree each year. Much of what you prune off will be for the sake of pest/disease prevention and opening up the center of the tree. In the early years of your fruit tree after planting, put considerable thought into training your tree to assume a desirable shape. A few main limbs will eventually form the framework of the tree. These are called the "scaffold" limbs. The smaller branches stemming off of the scaffold limbs are called "lateral" branches. Sometimes, the tree will also have a central "leader," which is the main vertical branch coming up out of the trunk. But other times, you may opt for "open center training," where there's no central leader. "Modified central leader training" is a compromise between the two.1 The following are the general rules for pruning fruit trees: Clean and sharpen your pruning tools properly: Pruning tools can pick up and hold onto diseases if not cleaned properly. Before beginning, wipe down the blades of your pruners with Isopropyl alcohol. Also sharpen the blades so that they make a clean cut rather than ripping the wood. Remove dead, diseased, and damaged branches whenever you see them: For example, if a whole branch is dead, prune it off at the branch collar (the raised tissue where the branch meets the trunk). If just the tip of a branch is diseased, first cut off the visibly diseased part. Then count three nodes down the branch and make another cut at a 45-degree angle (to make sure you have cleared the diseased portion). Remove suckers and water sprouts: Both are vertical growths and should be pruned off, but they are different. Suckers come up at ground level. Water sprouts spike up off of branches. Remove clusters: Besides the 3 D's rule, there is a CAC rule in pruning fruit trees, where the letters stand for clusters, acute, and crossing. Here is what that means. We'll begin by removing clusters (or "whorls"). These are little branches that encircle a part of the bigger branch they come out of. They are considered unproductive and will only cast shade where you do not want it. Remove acute-angled branches: The "acute" here refers to the angle of a branch as it comes out of the trunk or another branch. Specifically, a branch that is too vertical is said to form an acute (sharp) angle, which is undesirable. Pay particular attention to the scaffold branches. They should point up at an angle of 45 to 60 degrees. Any lesser or greater angle than that is considered unsustainable. Remove crossing and inward-facing branches: Crossing branches will rub against each other, possibly opening up wounds that would invite diseases. Since we want to open up the inside of the canopy to let light in, an obvious type of branch to remove is one that crosses over another. For the same reason, remove inward-facing branches. Remove low branches and downward-facing branches: As your tree grows, begin removing the lowest branches. At maturity, you will not want any branches less than 4 feet above the ground. Always remove downward-facing branches as well. Both will get too much shade to bear fruit. Assess the overall shape of the tree: Stand back and size up the overall shape. Ideally, the branches at the top should be shorter than those at the bottom, so that the latter are not deprived of sunlight. Special Cases When you first plant a fruit tree, there will probably be way too much above-ground growth for the young root system to support. Rather than removing 1/5 of the vegetation, you will probably need to remove 1/3. Left alone, it would die anyway, so take the opportunity to shape the tree according to the tips above. Prune a sweet cherry tree in August instead of in late winter or early spring. At this time it is less susceptible to bacterial infection.

How long does a Christmas tree last after cutting? Well, that depends on the tree variety, when the tree is cut, and how the tree is maintained through the holidays. While most experts agree that well-maintained Christmas trees last for about three to four weeks after cutting, some tree varieties stay fresh longer than others and environmental factors can cause trees to brown prematurely.1 If you want to make sure your Christmas tree looks fresh and festive through the holidays, here’s exactly when to go Christmas tree shopping—plus tips to help your tree last. How Long Does a Real Christmas Tree Last? Live Christmas trees typically stay fresh for about three to four weeks after cutting, but this varies depending on the tree species. For instance, pines and spruces are some of the most popular Christmas trees; however, these evergreens tend to dry out a bit faster and usually fade about two to three weeks after cutting. Firs and cypress trees, on the other hand, are better at holding onto their needles and often stay fresh for up to five weeks. If you want your Christmas tree to last as long as possible, select a Douglas fir, Fraser fir, or another sturdy species. When Should You Buy Your Real Christmas Tree? While you may be eager to start decking the halls, it’s important not to bring your Christmas tree home too early. After all, real Christmas trees have a limited lifespan after they’re cut, and purchasing a tree too early may leave you with a dry and brittle tree on Christmas day. To avoid this, aim to purchase your Christmas tree about three to four weeks before Christmas, and make sure to select the freshest tree you can find. 8 Tips to Keep It Looking Great All Season No matter what type of Christmas tree you choose or how to decide to decorate it, here are a few simple ways to ensure your tree stays fresh through Christmas and beyond. Buy Locally Big box stores often sell Christmas trees around the holidays; however, these trees are usually transported to the store from out of state and they’re not that fresh. For a fresher option, purchase your Christmas tree from a local tree farm or go to a cut-your-own tree farm for the freshest trees around. If you’re purchasing a pre-cut tree, don’t be afraid to ask when the tree was cut. Inspect the Tree Before settling on the Christmas tree of your dreams, check the tree over carefully for brown branches and brittle needles. If possible, give the tree a strong shake or run your hand along its branches and watch how many needles fall away. Fresh trees should be lush and green and they shouldn’t drop more than a few needles. Trim the Trunk Unless your Christmas tree was cut less than six to eight hours ago, you’ll need to trim some of the trunk away or ask someone at the tree lot to trim your tree for you. After evergreen trees are cut, resinous sap starts to flow and it can seal up the tree’s trunk and keep Christmas trees from absorbing water in their stand. However, trimming just a thin, straight slice off the trunk’s base should open the trunk up and improve water flow. Select a Suitable Stand When selecting a stand for your Christmas tree, choose a sturdy stand with a roomy water reservoir that’s at least 1 gallon in size. The stand should be appropriately sized for your tree and you should never need to whittle the tree’s trunk down to make it fit. Christmas trees need intact trunks to absorb water correctly. Add Water Even if you don’t intend to decorate your tree right away, put your Christmas tree in water as soon as you bring it home and keep the stand filled with water as long as your tree is up. Clean, fresh water is the best choice for Christmas trees, and preservatives and other additives aren’t recommended. In fact, preservatives can actually make trees dry out prematurely.2 Check the Reservoir Regularly Christmas trees can absorb a gallon of water a day and tree stands will dry out even faster if your home is dry or if your pets have a taste for drinking Christmas tree water. To keep your tree lush, check your tree stand daily and refill the stand before it runs dry. If you often forget to water, you may want to invest in an automatic tree watering system. Use LED Lights String lights make Christmas trees sparkle and glow, but heat-producing incandescent lights can dehydrate Christmas tree needles. A better option is LED string lights, which produce less heat and also use less energy. For best results and energy savings, select mini LED lights if you can find them and put your string lights on an automatic timer. Adjust the Temperature Fireplaces, space heaters, and other heating units make the holidays feel cozy, but they also dry out Christmas trees. To avoid prematurely dry needles, position your Christmas tree away from heat sources and direct sun, and consider turning your thermostat down to 70 degrees Fahrenheit or less. Adding a humidifier near your tree may keep it green a little longer too.

Keeping your Christmas tree fresh means maintaining the tree’s needles, fragrance, and vibrant color. But besides watering your Christmas tree, what can you do to ensure your tree boasts holiday splendor and that classic Christmas tree aroma—saving you from taking your tree down too soon? To find out more about how to care for your tree, we chatted with Christmas tree experts and arborists. Here, they share their tips for keeping your Christmas tree fresh all season long. How Long Does a Real Christmas Tree Usually Last? A real Christmas tree can last between four to six weeks with proper care although there are things you can do at home to extend your tree’s life. However, according to Rocco Malanga, the owner of Cedar Grove Christmas Trees, this number depends on how it’s maintained at home and how it was harvested and handled by the retailer. Hence, some of our experts’ tips include how to treat the tree when you first get it from the tree lot. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Start With a Fresh Cut Even before inserting your tree into a Christmas tree stand, there’s a crucial first step to making sure your tree stays hydrated. Ask an attendant at the tree lot to trim the tree by making a cut at least an inch off the bottom of the trunk to allow better water absorption, Malanga says. This will help your tree take in more water effectively. Use a Pet-Safe Preservative Adding a preservative to your tree stand’s water reserve can help keep your Christmas tree hydrated. But many of these have bleach in them, so they aren’t safe for pets who might try drinking from the tree stand. Many tree lots offer pet-safe preservatives that can be added to the water for enhanced hydration and needle retention, Malanga says. Ask the person selling you your Christmas tree if they have pet-safe preservatives that you can add to water when you feed your tree. Hydrate Your Tree Water the Christmas tree daily. Check the water level each morning to make sure the tree has enough water, and if it doesn’t, add more water to the tree stand. Depending on the Christmas tree variety, a full-size evergreen tree will take more water to stay hydrated than you might expect. For example, a 6-foot-tall evergreen will need about a gallon of water each day. Besides adding water to the tree stand, you can also spray the tree’s needles. Use a simple spray bottle to mist water on your tree’s branches once a day to prevent them from becoming brittle. Place Your Tree Away From Hot Fireplaces and Heating Vents Because Christmas trees can dry out, you don’t want to place them near a heat source like a fireplace or heating vent. According to Scott Seargeant, an international arborist and landscape contractor at Seargeant Landscape and Arboriculture, you should always test a room for unexpected heat sources before placing your tree in it. “Have a thermometer or a temperature app on your smartphone and take temperature readings in several locations within the room,” he suggests. Make sure the room is at the typical temperature you normally keep it set to when running your tests. But if every room in your home runs warm, place the tree as close as you can near a window. That way, you can periodically open the window to cool down the tree if needed. Keep Your Heating System Turned Down or Off at Night One way to avoid drying out your tree is to make sure your heating system is set low or turned off. At night, set your thermostat to 68 degrees to keep the home at a comfortable temperature in the evening when everyone’s tucked in bed. You’ll also want to turn the thermostat off when no one’s home. “Newer house thermostats are programmable from your smartphone,” Seargeant explains. "If you are at work or out and about, you can adjust the thermostat lower when everyone has left the house after you.” Choose a Room With Vaulted Ceilings Another way to keep your tree from drying out is to place it in a room with vaulted ceilings. This is because living rooms with vaulted ceilings are far better than those with lower ceilings to keep heat at bay. “Heat rises and a vaulted ceiling will keep the heat farther away from the tree than typical lower ceilings,” Seargeant says.

Growing trees for your landscape is a gardening challenge that offers great rewards. Adding an evergreen for a living or cut Christmas tree is a fun, learning project and your entire family can contribute, from planting a seedling to placing ornaments on the branches. Like most gardening endeavors, this one requires patience. Benefits of Growing Your Own Christmas Tree Christmas evergreens, like all trees, benefit the environment by exchanging carbon dioxide for oxygen to improve air quality. Living trees also eliminate manufacturing costs and environmental waste accumulated in the production of artificial trees. Evergreens serve as food and shelter for wildlife, improve soil quality, prevent erosion, and add year-round color and interest to your landscape. How Long Does It Take to Grow a Christmas Tree? Plan to spend at least five years for your holiday evergreen to reach a good height for cutting or decorating. Several factors determine growth rates. Species and variety of evergreens you choose. Your USDA hardiness zone, specific climate, and growing conditions. Whether you start from a seed, a potted seedling, or a sapling. Popular Christmas Trees You Can Grow Here are eight types of evergreens often found on Christmas tree sales lots that you can grow at home. Eastern White Pine Eastern White Pine, Pinus strobus, is one of the fastest-growing evergreens but starts out slowly. Not until it reaches sapling size does this pine take off so plan on eight to ten years for a full-size Christmas tree at about 4 1/2 feet. It features a pyramidal form with soft, blue-green needles. Branches are used as holiday greenery but are somewhat fragile and may not stand up to heavy decoration. Eastern White Pine is hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8. Scots Pine Scots Pine, Pinus sylvestris, is found across the globe and widely grown for the Christmas tree market. Features include rapid growth, pyramidal shape, sturdy branching, and excellent needle retention. This pine can reach a Christmas tree size of 8 feet in five years. Scots pine grows in USDA hardiness zones 2 to 9. Colorado Blue Spruce Considered a slow grower, Colorado Blue Spruce, Picea pungens, can reach Christmas tree size in five years at 5 feet tall when started as a 2-foot sapling. A notable ornamental in the landscape, the short, stiff, blue-green needles and sturdy branching earn high marks as a holiday tree. Colorado Blue Spruce grows in USDA hardiness zones 2 to 7. Norway Spruce Norway Spruce, Picea abies, needs two years to establish after which it can grow up to 3 feet each year. Starting with a 2-foot potted sapling, it reaches heights to 10 feet in five years with a narrow, conical form and dark green needles. Primary branches turn upwards while secondary branches drape slightly for an elegant flowing appearance. Norway Spruce grows in USDA hardiness zones 2 to 7. Douglas Fir Douglas Fir, Pseudotsuga menziesii, can grow up to 6 feet tall in five years. This is a common tree found on Christmas tree lots but has a short life span of only about two weeks after cutting. It features a conical shape with dense branching and yellow-green to blue-green needles with good retention. Native to the American West and coastal areas, it grows best in USDA hardiness zones 4 to 6. Fraser Fir Fraser Fir, Abies fraseri, is an evergreen you're most likely to see when you visit a Christmas tree farm. One of the most popular holiday trees, it is a slow grower so plan to invest about 12 years to grow your own. Outstanding characteristics include uniform pyramidal form, strong upward curving branches, and blue-green needles with good retention. Fraser Fir grows in USDA hardiness zones 4 to 7. Noble Fir If you live in the mountains or a climate with lots of precipitation and snowy winters, Noble Fir, Abies procera, may be a possibility for a grow-your-own Christmas tree. Growth rates vary, but in ideal conditions, this evergreen can reach 4 to 5 feet tall in five to nine years. Valued for its symmetry, Noble Fir features sturdy branches and blue-green needles with a silvery hue. It grows in USDA hardiness zones 5 to 6. Arizona Cypress If you live in a climate with warm winters, Arizona Cypress, Cupressus arizonica, is a good choice for growing your own Christmas tree. Some varieties can reach 5 to 10 feet tall in just five years. It features strong horizontal branches, a tall, narrow, conical shape and gray-green to blue-green needles with a silvery cast. Arizona Cypress grows well in the desert southwest and USDA hardiness zones 7 to 9. Caring For a Potted Christmas Tree An easy start to growing your own full-size tree is to purchase a young pot-grown tree. Plenty of evergreen varieties are available at nurseries and retailers, but choose one that grows in your hardiness zone and climate. Follow these tips for caring for your potted tree. Consider dwarf varieties. Bring the tree inside for decorating but return it to an outdoor location after ten days. Place it away from heating vents and provide good air circulation. Avoid heavy decorations and overloading branches. Water regularly when the top inch of soil gets dry. Consider potting it up after the holidays. Choose a pot twice the size of the rootball with good drainage. Fertilize your potted tree monthly during the growing season with a balanced slow-release formula.