herbs

Everyone's looking to cut costs these days, and grocery bills are a good place to start. Though not all of us have the luxury of space to start growing our own veggies, herbs are generally low-maintenance and low-material plants you can grow in your own kitchen. Not only that, but some of them you don't even have to buy seeds or a plant for. Here are five herbs you can start from the ingredients you buy at the grocery store for a lower grocery bill and fresher ingredients. Mint Mint is a plant that is famously easy to grow and hard to kill. This is because (when planted in-ground) it's actually considered invasive, meaning it grows robustly, choking out other plants for light and nutrients. In a container on your kitchen counter, however, this just means an endless supply of fresh herbs. To start your own plant, take a few sprigs from the grocery store and place the stems in water. Ensure that no leaves are touching the water, as this can lead to rot, mildew, and mold. Change the water every few days, and in a few weeks, you should start to see root growth. Take these sprigs, plant them in a small container, and ta-da! You've got a plant that will continue to give fresh ingredients whenever you need them. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Basil Basil is not only easy to grow in the kitchen—It will also add a lovely aroma to your space. As with mint, simply pick a few leaves with developed, long stalks from what you bought at the supermarket and place them in water. After a few weeks of changing the water regularly, roots should begin to appear. Replant them in a medium-sized, well-draining pot, and harvest leaves as needed for cooking. Oregano Though it might take a while, oregano is yet another herb you can grow from supermarket propagations. Follow the same steps as for mint and basil: Pick a few healthy stems, put them in a cup of water, and pick off any leaves that might sit on or below the waterline. Change the water every few days to prevent mold, mildew, or rot. When you see roots form, transplant to a well-draining pot with soil. Water and provide light as with any other plant. Rosemary Grow supermarket rosemary the same as basil: Pick sprigs with long, hardy stems and put them in water (with no leaves touching the water). Change water frequently, and plant in a pot when roots have grown out. Thyme For thyme, follow the same processes as for other herbs: Pick strong stems, place in water, replace water every few days, and—when roots have formed after a few weeks—transplant to a well-draining pot with soil and care for normally.

Herb gardens are a staple for many gardeners. Not only are herbs fairly easy to grow, but you also get the added benefit of being able to harvest them on a regular basis for your cooking—and say goodbye to wasted store-bought herbs that go off in your fridge. But if you're considering adding mint to your garden—or are already growing it—you may want to think twice. We talked to expert gardeners to find out why you should never grow mint in the garden, and what to grow instead. Why You Shouldn't Grow Mint in the Garden Gardeners say you shouldn't grow mint in your garden because it can spread rapidly. "The main reason to not grow mint is that it tends to be very invasive and difficult to get rid of once it has become established," says Edwin Dysinger, co-founder of Seedtime. Anna Hackman, farmer and managing member at The Naked Botanical, agrees, and says mint can very easily crowd out other plants so they don't receive enough water, soil, nutrients, or even sunlight. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Can You Still Grow Mint at Home? If you still want to grow mint at home, you have some options. First, Hackman suggests having dedicated beds for your mint, which is something she does herself in her own garden. "I have dedicated beds for my mints and each mint is separated so one doesn't push the other out," she says. Hackman also says if you do want to grow mint but are worried about it taking over your garden, there's an easy answer: grow it in containers, but don't plant the container in the ground. "You will need to pull out some of the mint periodically, so it doesn't choke itself," she says. "I made the mistake thinking I could contain it in a container buried in my garden bed and mint found its way out." Alternatives to Growing Mint Hackman has a self-professed "mint addiction," and grows several varieties like pineapple mint, green apple mint, spearmint, peppermint, and chocolate mint. She also suggests a couple of alternatives, if you like the aroma and appearance of mint but would rather grow something less invasive in your garden. "If you want to grow a mint-like plant, I recommend mountain mint or lemon balm," she says. "Lemon balm will self-seed but you can cut it before it flowers. It generally stays in the same vicinity and doesn't get that large." Mountain mint, she says, is pollinator-friendly and will attract lots of bees, but is a larger option and can grow up to 40 inches. Hackman says there are a range of varieties of mountain mint to fit your needs.

Dill plants benefit from repeat harvests, regenerating new growth for fuller, bushier plants. Start harvesting when plants are 5 to 6 inches tall with four or five sets of fronds. Harvest dill seeds for pickling when they are bright green. Dill (Anethum graveolens) is a full-flavored, annual herb that completes its life cycle in one season. Harvesting equates to pruning, which means more growth and a full, bushy habit. Done correctly, you'll enjoy dill for fresh use throughout the growing season. Leaves, flowers, and seeds are all edible. Find out how and when to harvest each part of the plant, along with tips for preserving and storing dill for use over winter. When to Harvest Dill Start harvesting dill fronds when plants reach 5 to 6 inches tall with four or five leaf-bearing stems. This herb grows rapidly, so you can start snipping fairly early in the growing season. For best flavor and moisture content, plan your trip to the herb garden in mid-morning, just after dew has dried but before the heat of the day sets in. Repeat harvests generate new growth to extend the plant's life cycle. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! How to Harvest Dill Dill features upright, branching growth with delicate, alternate, fern-like leaves or fronds. Harvested correctly, plants regenerate, putting out more stems and leaves. Use a small snipper to avoid bruising or stripping stems. Here's what to do. Select a plant with four or five fronds, Use your snipper to make a sharp cut across the leaf stem just above the growth point on the main stem. Look for tips of new fronds starting to emerge along a central stem to locate the right spot. Continue harvesting additional leaves and stems with this method, but remove no more than one-third of the leaves at each cutting. The first few harvests will be small, but the amounts increase as the dill plant puts out new growth. Dill flowers and seeds Depending on the variety, dill generates flowers between 45 and 70 days. Once flowers appear, plants cease to put out green growth, signaling the end of the annual life cycle. Hot, dry weather stimulates early flowering, so gardeners in these climates should succession plant for better harvests. How to Harvest Dill Seeds Once flowers open, flavor concentrates at the top of the stems. Seeds form one to two weeks after flowers appear. For pickling use, harvest heads when seeds are bright green. Yellow seeds aren't quite ready, while brown or black seeds indicate flavor and moisture loss. Cut stems just below the heads and store them whole in plastic bags in the refrigerator or freezer. Fresh dill seeds retain the best flavor for pickling. To harvest seeds for saving, wait until they turn brown or black on the plant. Cut stems just below the heads, tie them together, and place or hang them upside down in a paper bag. Once they're completely dry, shake the bag to separate seeds and stems. Harvest leaves with flower heads After dill flowers, leafy growth ceases so this is a good time to harvest most of the remaining usable leaves on your plant. Tips for Storing Dill Freezing fresh dill is often recommended as a better method for storing, however, it depends on your taste and preference. Freezing preserves color and holds flavor longer. Drying initially concentrates on a spicier flavor with less green taste. Wash dill, run it through a salad spinner, and allow it to dry before storing. Wrap clean, fresh dill stems in a moist paper towel or place leaves in a plastic bag. Keep them in the refrigerator crisper drawer for up to two weeks. Leaves can be dried in a low oven or dehydrator. Or tie several stems together and hang them in a dry location out of direct sunlight. Store fresh leaves and seeds for pickling in plastic bags in the freezer for up to 12 months. Expect some flavor loss after six months. Store dried leaves and saved seeds in glass bottles or jars in a cool, dark cupboard. Seeds remain viable for three to five years. Dried leaves lose their green flavor initially, but can be kept for several years.

Whether or not you should grow herbs in the ground or in pots depends on your climate and soil. Containers offer the benefit of flexibility, allowing you to customize your soil and herbs' location. Test and understand your soil and the conditions herbs prefer before planting anything in the ground. As we all eye the rising temperatures and grocery store prices, growing your own herbs becomes even more appealing. It's affordable, it's fun, and you get a nonstop supply of herbs (at least for a few months). But is it better to grow herbs in pots or in the ground? We asked a pro gardener to find out the best way to do it for maximum success. Is It Better to Grow Herbs in Pots or in Ground? Where you should grow herbs depends on the answer to two questions, according to John LoRusso, master gardener and master gardener coordinator for Windham County, CT. He suggests asking yourself what kind of soil are you growing plants in and what kind of climate do you live in. Herbs require excellent drainage and moist (but not wet) soil. If your soils are heavy, it's better to plant your herbs in containers so you can have a lighter soil mix. If you have a very wet climate, there's no way to ease drainage in the ground. If you have a very dry climate, you'll be watering herbs in containers all the time. Containers also have the benefit of flexibility. "Containers also offer the option of being able to be placed at table height for ease of harvest. They can also be moved indoors at the end of the season to extend the harvest," LoRusso says. He recommends unglazed clay pots, which, thanks to their porous material, can be placed in the ground if you so choose and still absorb water and nutrients. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! How to Decide Where to Grow Herbs In very wet climates and backyards with heavy or acidic soil, LoRusso recommends growing herbs in pots. (Most herbs prefer a pH of 6 to 7, so soil that's too acidic also won't treat your herbs well.) With pots, you can get exactly the right soil mix for the type of herbs you're growing, whether you need a lighter mix or one with more organic matter. LoRusso also suggests considering the pots you have on hand and your desired supply of herbs. "The plants are constrained by the pot, and does the gardener have enough pots for all the herbs they want to grow—is there ever enough basil?" LoRusso says. You should also take into account your own care habits. Herbs shouldn't be allowed to dry out and wilt, and the soil in containers will dry out more frequently than the soil in the ground. Are you committed to watering your herbs on a perhaps daily basis? Herbs That Grow Best in the Ground The herbs that grow best in ground will depend on your climate. In areas where soil is richer, LoRusso points to basil, dill, parsley, fennel, and chevril. Those herbs can handle higher moisture levels. In areas with sandier soils, lavenders, thyme, and rosemary will do well. If you don't have the appropriate soil for the herb you want to grow, you should grow them in pots. Herbs That Grow Best in Pots Any herb your yard doesn't have the appropriate soil for should be grown in a pot. If you haven't grown plants in your yard's soil before and don't feel confident assessing if it's rich or sandy, a pot is the easy way to go. LoRusso also recommends pots for herbs that love to spread, like mint and spearmint, which if allowed to grow freely will extend throughout (and beyond) your garden bed.

Pick a space for your herb garden that can provide the proper light, soil nutrients, and humidity your herbs need. Pick and place herbs according to their needs—some plants need less water than others. After harvesting herbs they can either be frozen or dried in order to keep them viable for longer. Herb gardens are the perfect introduction to gardening and supply your senses and pantry with fresh flavors and scents. Whether you plan to grow herbs in containers or a small plot, here are the things you need to know to start a successful herb garden. Pick a Space for Your Herb Garden Herb gardens are so popular because they are easy to start and maintain; they grow quickly and you can begin harvesting within a few weeks. The size of your herb garden is up to you and depends on the quantity and variety of herbs you want to grow. Light Almost all herbs require at least 6 hours of full sun daily. A few such as chervil, mint, chives, and cilantro can be grown in an area with light shade. Soil Herbs need well-draining soil. They will no thrive in heavy, wet soil. Adding compost to clay soil will help improve the structure and drainage. The soil does not have to be highly fertile; too many nutrients tends to produce excessive amounts of poorly-flavored foliage. Temperature and Humidity Mediterranean herbs like basil, thyme, rosemary, oregano, and lavender like warm, sunny, dry conditions. Most perennial and biennial herbs can overwinter if they are protected with layers of mulch. Established herbs can tolerate dry conditions but supplemental water is recommended during periods of drought. Use mulch to conserve soil moisture, but keep it away from the base of the plants to prevent stem rot. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Pick Which Herbs You Want to Grow Most people plant the herbs they enjoy using for cooking, making teas, or drying for potpourri. Some make selections based on fragrance or bloom color. The beauty of an herb garden is that it is personal to your preferences. It is a good idea to group your chosen herbs by their watering needs to prevent over-watering those that prefer drier conditions. Drought-Tolerant Herbs Borage: Once established, allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Fennel: Drought-tolerant once established; allow the soil to dry between waterings. Lavender: Lavender will not survive wet roots and heavy soil. Marjoram: Drought-tolerant and prefers dry soil with occasional watering. Oregano: Thrives in dry and warm climates with low rainfall levels. Sage: A drought-tolerant plant that prefers soil to dry out between waterings. Rosemary: Prefers slightly drier conditions and minimal watering. Thyme: Water only when the soil is completely dry. Winter savory: Once established, prefers dry soil. Herbs with Moderate Watering Needs Basil: A broadleaf herb, it requires more water than herbs like thyme, rosemary, and sage. Bay laurel: For healthy leaves, keep the soil evenly moist. Catnip: A member of the mint family, catnip requires consistent moisture to flourish. Chervil: Prefers evenly moist soil with good drainage. Chives: Although drought-tolerant, chives must be watered evenly throughout the growing season for high yields. Cilantro: The soil should be kept evenly moist for tender leaves. Dill: Requires consistent moisture levels to flower and produce seeds. Lemon balm: Prefers soil that is moist but never wet. Lemon verbena: Requires regular watering. Mint: Thrives around water and can tolerate wet roots. Parsley: Evenly moist soil produces the most tender leaves of flat or curly parsley. Tarragon: Young plants need regular watering to become established. Propagating Herbs There are many ways to propagate herbs, and doing so can keep your herb garden fresh and perpetually growing for years. By Seed Nearly all herbs grow well from seed that you've saved or purchased. Fine herbs like anise, cilantro, dill, and fennel should be directly sown into the garden once the danger of frost has passed because they do not transplant well. Basil, parsley, sage, and thyme can be started indoors and transplanted into the garden when temperatures warm. After planting seeds in well-tilled soil with good drainage, water lightly until they germinate. From Cuttings To quickly establish new plants, herbs can be propagated from cuttings. Take cuttings in spring or early summer when the plant is actively growing; select a 3 to 4-inch stem that is healthy and tender. Strip the leaves off the bottom two inches and dip the cut end in rooting hormone. Place the stem in a small pot of moistened potting soil. Cover the pot with a plastic bag and place it in an area with bright, indirect light. Keep the soil moist and remove the plastic bag when new leaves begin to grow. Transplant the cutting into the garden once the plant has at least 3 or 4 sets of new leaves. Propagating Without a Plant If you don't have herb plants already established, there are some herbs you can grow from supermarket purchases like mint, basil, thyme, and more. By Division Herbs that have a clumping habit like tarragon, chives, and mint can be divided to create new plants. Use a garden trowel to gently dig up the clump of herbs. Use a clean, sterile knife to separate individual plants and replant or share them with others. Harvesting Herbs harvesting mint Valeriy_G / Getty Images Once an herb plant has enough foliage to maintain growth, fresh leaves can be harvested. It's best to harvest herbs before they flower or go to seed because leaf production declines. Snip stems at a leaf node with sharp, sterile clippers. For the best flavor, pick leaves or seeds after the morning dew has evaporated but before temperatures are high. Before using, discard any bruised or soiled leaves and inspect the herbs for insects or foreign matter. Rinse the herbs under running water and shake gently to remove excess moisture. How to Preserve Herbs The two best methods for preserving herbs are freezing and drying. Depending on the herbs you're drying, one method might suit your needs better than the other. By Freezing Tender herbs like basil, chives, cilantro, dill, lemon balm, mint, parsley, and tarragon freeze well in small batches. After harvesting and rinsing the herbs, pat the herbs dry. Place the herbs in a freezer bag, seal the bag, and place it in the freezer. To freeze in pre-measured portions, chop the herbs finely and place them in an ice cube tray. Add a small amount of water and allow the tray to freeze. When solid, pop out the cubes and store them in plastic bags. By Drying Rosemary, sage, thyme, and winter savory are the easiest herbs to dry and will retain the most flavor and color. After harvesting and rinsing the herbs, pat them dry with a paper towel. Form small bunches and tie them with cotton string. Hang the bunches upside down in a warm, well-ventilated place until the moisture evaporates. Avoid hang in direct sunlight that can strip flavor and color. The herbs are dry when the leaves crumble and the stems break when bent. Store dried herbs whole, crumbled, or ground in a cool, dark spot in a labeled airtight container for up to six months for the best flavor.

Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus) is a fragrant and drought-tolerant perennial herb in the mint family that grows as a rounded, evergreen shrub with slender, needle-like, gray-green leaves on erect woody stems. Clusters of small, light blue to white flowers appear in spring and summer. Plant rosemary in USDA zones 8 to 10 in the spring when temperatures stay between 55 degrees and 80 degrees or grow indoors as a houseplant. Rosemary has a moderate growth rate, reaching its mature size between 2 and 6 feet tall after several years. This is an easy-to-grow culinary herb, favored in cooking for its earthy, citrusy, and peppery taste. How to Plant Rosemary When to Plant Plant rosemary in the spring once the weather has warmed and there is no forecasted frost. Container-grown rosemary can be planted any time of the year. However, it goes dormant during the winter. Where to Plant Place rosemary in a sunny spot with sharp-draining soil. Good companion plants for rosemary include cruciferous vegetables (kale, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts), beans, carrots, and spinach. Rosemary also grows well in containers both outdoors and indoors, as long as it can get enough sunlight. It can be slightly challenging to give rosemary enough light indoors and the plant usually won’t last as long as it does outdoors, which is usually around 10 years. How to Plant Space rosemary shrubs at least two to three feet apart. Plant seedlings and nursery plants at the same depth at which they were growing in their previous container. Seeds should be just barely covered with soil when planting. A support structure is typically not necessary for this shrub. Rosemary Plant Care Light Rosemary likes full sun and does not tolerate any shade. This means it requires at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. A south-facing window is ideal for indoor growth, and grow lights are often necessary to provide supplemental light. Bring indoor plants outside in warm weather to allow them access to natural sunlight. Inadequate light can cause leggy and weak growth. Soil Use sandy or loamy soil for rosemary. The plant is easy to grow when planted in well-draining soil and it can get root rot in overly wet or cold soil. A slightly acidic to neutral soil pH is ideal. Water Rosemary is quite drought-tolerant once established, and it’s better to water sparingly rather than overwater them. Allow the top few inches of soil to dry out between waterings, and then water so that the soil is evenly moist but not soggy. Temperature and Humidity This shrub likes warm weather and moderate humidity levels. Most rosemary varieties can’t survive temperatures below 30 degrees, but they have good heat tolerance. They prefer temperatures between 55 degrees and 80 degrees. High humidity can lead to rot and fungal issues, especially if there isn’t enough air circulation around the plant. Fertilizer Rosemary is not a heavy feeder. Mixing compost into the soil at the time of planting helps give the shrub a healthy start. Then, use a balanced liquid fertilizer, following label instructions, to promote quality growth. Pollination Rosemary shrubs self-pollinate and attract bees and other pollinators to the garden. Bring indoor plants outdoors in warm weather when their flowers are open to allow the blooms to naturally pollinate. Harvesting Rosemary Harvest rosemary any time of year, though it grows most actively in the spring and summer. Harvest by using pruners to cut off 4- to 6-inch stem tips. Dry rosemary by hanging the stems upside-down in a dry, cool, well-ventilated area, which should take a couple of weeks. Once the stems are dry, strip off the leaves and keep them in an airtight container in a pantry. Use fresh rosemary sprigs or leaves in cooking rather than drying if you prefer. The leaves are most flavorful and aromatic just before the plant blooms. Types of Rosemary There are several types of rosemary to grow, including: ‘Arp’: This plant has light green foliage with a lemony scent, and it’s known for its cold tolerance. ‘Golden Rain’: This plant stays compact at two to three feet high and wide, and it features yellow markings on its foliage. ‘Albus’: The trademark of this cultivar is its white flowers. ‘Prostratus’: This cultivar has a low, spreading growth habit at around two feet high and two to three feet wide. Pruning Prune rosemary as necessary to shape its growth after the plant is done flowering. Rosemary responds well to pruning and can also be trained into topiary shapes. Don’t prune off more than a third of the plant at a time, as this can stress the shrub and leave it vulnerable to diseases and pests. Propagating Rosemary Propagate rosemary with a cutting from a mature plant in the spring or summer. Cut a few inches of healthy new softwood growth and remove the lower leaves (keep a few at the top of the stem). Dip the end of the cutting in rooting hormone if placing it in a moist sandy, soilless potting mix. Or, keep the cutting in a container of fresh water. Either way, place the cutting in a warm, bright spot. The cutting is ready for transplanting after roots form. Rooting rosemary in water produces quicker but more delicate roots. Putting a cutting in sand or soilless mix takes longer but develops stronger roots that may offer the best results when transferring seedlings to the soil. How to Grow Rosemary From Seed Growing rosemary from seeds can be difficult, because they don't germinate easily. You'll be better off getting a seedling from the grocery store or a big-box store. If you want to try growing rosemary from seed, you need soil, seed trays, plastic wrap (if the tray doesn't come with a cover), and ideally a heat mat and grow light. Soak. Soak the rosemary seeds for 24 hours before planting to improve germination. Prep the trays. Fill the seed starting trays with moist seed-starting mix. Plant the seeds. Scatter the seeds on top of the seed starting trays. Increase humidity and warmth. Cover the tray with plastic wrap or a plastic cover to keep humidity high. Set the tray on a heat mat or in a warm location, like on top of the fridge. Maintain ideal conditions. Remove the cover occasionally to allow for some air circulation. Mist soil or bottom water to keep soil moist. Remove plastic. Once the seedlings have sprouted, remove the plastic wrap and put the tray in a bright location, ideally under a grow light. Transfer. Once the seedlings are around 3 inches tall, move them to individual pots, and then outdoors once the weather is warm enough. Potting and Repotting Rosemary Growing rosemary in pots allows you to bring it indoors during cold weather. Keep containers on a patio or deck near your kitchen for easy access. Select a pot that’s slightly larger than the plant’s root ball. Make sure it has drainage holes. An unglazed clay container is best to allow excess soil moisture to evaporate through its walls. Rosemary needs excellent soil drainage, so use a potting mix that contains perlite, which helps keep the soil light and well-aerated. Plan to repot every year into one container size up, using fresh potting mix. The best time to repot is in the spring. Gently loosen the plant from its previous container and situate it at the same depth in the new one, filling around the roots with soil. Overwintering Bring rosemary indoors well before any frost is predicted in the fall forecast. Keep it in a warm room and away from any drafts or drying air from heat vents. Continue providing it with at least six hours of sunlight per day via a bright window and/or grow light. Back off slightly on watering in winter, though don’t allow the soil to fully dry out. Once frost is out of the forecast in the spring, the plant can go back outside. Common Pests & Plant Diseases High humidity and poor air circulation can result in powdery mildew—a white, powdery fungus—on rosemary plants. Powdery mildew typically won't kill a plant, but the disease will weaken it. To prevent powdery mildew, make sure the plant's soil isn't too wet, and provide good airflow. Also, be on the lookout for aphids and spider mites, especially on indoor plants. Use an insecticidal soap as soon as you spot an infestation to prevent it from spreading.

Eucalyptus mostly enters our homes as cut branches that we use to add a nice smell to our homes. In nature eucalyptus (Eucalyptus cinerea) is an evergreen tree that grows up to 60 feet high in its natural Australian environment. (It's also a favorite food of koalas.) Planted in a home garden, it stays at 6 to 10 feet tall. Eucalyptus are best planted in spring and don't require any staking or other support structure. They have a fast growth rate and can gain several feet per year. It features reddish-brown bark and silvery, blue-green leaves. The bark, leaves, and sap of eucalyptus are toxic both to humans and pets. Eucalyptus Plant Care Here are the main care requirements for growing eucalyptus: Plant in well-draining soil with full sun exposure. Plant in a location with enough space to accommodate the tree’s full height and spread. (Multiple eucalyptus trees should be spaced at least 8 feet apart). Prefers warm temperatures. Harvest mature leaves and branches later in the growing season. Light Eucalyptus likes a lot of light, so place your plant somewhere that receives at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. Likewise, eucalyptus plants grown indoors should be kept near a bright window, preferably one that faces south. Soil Eucalyptus can tolerate most soil types, but it needs soil with good drainage. For container plants, use a well-draining potting mix. A slightly acidic to neutral soil pH is best. Water Eucalyptus is somewhat drought-tolerant once it's established. However, long periods of dryness may cause it to drop leaves. A good rule of thumb is to water when you can stick your finger into the soil and feel dryness at your fingertip. Temperature and Humidity Eucalyptus prefers warm temperatures between roughly 65°F and 75°F, and it likes a moderate humidity level. It cannot survive prolonged exposure to temperatures below 50°F. So if you're growing your plant in a container, bring it indoors when you expect chilly temperatures. Fertilizer If you're growing your plant in the ground, it typically won't need fertilizer. However, container plants will deplete their nutrients more quickly. So fertilize them with a low-nitrogen houseplant fertilizer throughout the growing season, following label instructions. Types of Eucalyptus In addition to Eucalyptus cinerea, there are hundreds of other eucalyptus species. They include: Eucalyptus globulus: Known as blue gum, this species features smooth bark and is particularly adaptable to a variety of growing conditions. Eucalyptus gunnii: Commonly referred to as cider gum, this species has better cold tolerance than most other eucalyptus species. Eucalyptus platypus: Commonly called moort, this is an especially hardy species that can tolerate heavy soils, cold, and drought. Pruning Eucalyptus trees generally don’t need much pruning. However, you can prune overgrown, broken, or misshapen branches to keep the plant looking attractive. The best time to do so is in the summer, but avoid pruning during very humid weather. Pruning Tip No pruners? No problem! We've tested over 10 top-rated pruners to help you choose the right one for your comfort and personal needs—there's an option for everyone. Propagating Eucalyptus Eucalyptus trees are most commonly grown from purchased seeds or nursery plants, but they can also be propagated via cuttings. The best time to take cuttings is when a tree is between 2 and 12 months old; rooting mature stems is difficult. Aim to take your cuttings in the late summer. Here’s how to grow eucalyptus from cuttings: Fill a small pot with a 3-1 mixture of composted tree bark and perlite, and add a slow-release fertilizer. Moisten the soil. Cut a stem that’s around 5 inches long with four to eight leaves. Cut just above a leaf node. Remove the leaves on the lower half of the cutting. Dip the cut end in a rooting hormone, and then plant it in the growing medium almost up to where the leaves are. Place the container in bright, indirect light in a room that’s around 70°F. Keep the soil lightly moist. Roots should form in about a month. Once roots have formed, move the plant to a sunnier spot and space out waterings. How to Grow Eucalyptus From Seed When considering how to grow eucalyptus from seed, note that the seeds first must be chilled in the refrigerator for two months before planting. Sow them in the late winter indoors roughly 10 to 12 weeks before your area’s last projected frost date. Use a seed-starting mix in peat pots that you’ll eventually be able to plant right into the soil to avoid disturbing the roots. Sow seeds on top of the growing medium, only lightly covering them. Place the pots in a warm spot with indirect bright light, and keep the growing medium moist but never soggy by misting it. Seeds should germinate in two to three weeks. Once the seedlings are about 6 inches tall, they’re ready to go outdoors. Potting and Repotting Eucalyptus Growing eucalyptus in a pot is a great option for gardeners who want to grow the plant outside of its hardiness zone. You can bring it indoors during winter. Eucalyptus plants don't like having their roots disturbed, so it's best to start with a large, 5-gallon container to avoid having to repot. Choose an unglazed clay or plastic pot with plenty of drainage holes. If you must repot, go with a pot 2 inches wider than the previous. Overwintering If you’re growing a container eucalyptus plant outside of its hardiness zones, you must bring it indoors to survive the winter. Do not let your plant be exposed to frost, which can damage or kill the foliage. Place it near your brightest window, preferably a southern-facing one, for the winter. Do not fertilize the plant, and slightly back off on watering. Harvesting Eucalyptus Leaves It is best to wait until late in the growing season to harvest eucalyptus. If you just want the leaves, simply snip them off with pruners or by hand. Air-dry them on a paper towel or drying screen in a cool spot out of direct sunlight. Wait until the leaves are slightly leathery or crispy, and then store them in glass jars with tightly sealed lids. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Eucalyptus plants are fairly free of any major pest or disease issues. But you might occasionally spot eucalyptus long-horned borers, especially on stressed plants. Holes in the bark, oozing sap, and foliage discoloration are signs of an infestation. Remove the infested area of the plant immediately, as insecticides are not effective against borers. Eucalyptus can be prone to leaf spots, which can appear black on the underside of the leaves and brown on the upper side; cankers; and root rot. The trees are also susceptible to heart rot, which is when the center of the tree begins to rot and decay, extending to the branches as well. Once heart rot occurs, it is impossible to save the tree as the fungus weakens and softens the inside, causing permanent damage. The tree will need to be removed. Common Problems With Eucalyptus Eucalyptus trees remain relatively healthy when in their preferred environment. However, in suboptimal conditions, they can come down with certain issues. Leaves Turning Brown Leaves turning brown on a eucalyptus tree can be a sign of too little moisture. That’s likely the issue if you notice leaves curling up or dropping as well. In that case, up your watering to keep the soil lightly moist but not soggy. Brown leaves also can be a sign of disease, especially fungal diseases. If just a small area is affected, remove that portion promptly. Or treat with an appropriate fungicide. Falling Branches Due to their prospective size and height, eucalyptus trees can become very heavy, causing their branches to fall or break.

Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) is an easy-care herb from the Mediterranean region that’s closely related to carrots and dill and is prized for its edible leaves and stems. Although most gardeners grow parsley as an annual, it’s technically a biennial herb that grows for two years before dying away. During its first year, parsley produces the majority of its flavorful leaves; however, these plants yield even more leaves, flowers, and seeds if they’re allowed to overwinter into their second year. Available in both curly and flat-leaf varieties, parsley grows well in pots or larger gardens, and it’s a must-have herb for garnishing and flavoring pasta, salads, soups, and sauces. Beyond its culinary uses, parsley is also a fantastic companion plant for most veggies and herbs, and it readily attracts pollinators and beneficial insects to garden beds, too. Here's a comprehensive guide on how to grow parsley yourself, indoors or outside. Parsley Care Tips Parsley is a delicious and attractive plant, not only to humans. Here's everything you need to know about caring for it yourself. You’ll get more use out of parsley if you overwinter your plants with mulch and let them go to seed. Second-year parsley flowers are highly attractive to predatory insects, like hoverflies, and parsley readily self-sows if you don’t deadhead old flowers. Parsley is also a top host plant for swallowtail butterflies and planting a few extra parsley plants can attract more of these helpful pollinators to your garden. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Light Parsley grows best in full sun; indoor plants may need a grow light to prevent spindly stems. In hot climates, parsley will do better in a location that receives morning sun and light afternoon shade. Soil These plants thrive in rich, well-draining soils with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Amending gardens with compost before planting is recommended. Water Like other tender-stemmed herbs, parsley needs to be watered regularly and deeply with about an inch of water per week. For improved growth, add mulch around the base of your plants, and add liquid organic fertilizer diluted to half strength once or twice during the growing season. Temperature and Humidity Parsley isn’t fussy about humidity and established plants can handle light frosts. However, these plants are at their best when temperatures range between 50°F and 70°F, and second year plants bolt quickly in hot weather. Varieties to Grow Parsley comes in a few different varieties and each type of parsley shines in its own way. Italian flat leaf: The most popular parsley for cooking, flat leaf parsley has big leaves that are easy to chop. It also has a sweeter and stronger flavor than other parsleys and is slower to bolt in hot weather. Curly parsley: Commonly grown in garden bed borders and pots, curly parsley has a milder taste than flat-leaf varieties, but its curly leaves make a striking garnish. Hamburg (or root) parsley: A lesser-known type of parsley, root parsley is a multi-use plant that produces plump, parsnip-like roots and edible greens. How to Plant Parsley Seeds Although potted parsley can be purchased at garden centers, growing parsley from seed is surprisingly easy, and can save you money on your gardening budget. Just keep in mind that parsley is a slow grower and seeds take between two and four weeks to sprout. In a Garden Starting parsley seeds outside is the easiest way to grow parsley. However, parsley seeds should only be planted outdoors after your last spring frost date. Pick a spot. Choose a sunny location and prepare the planting site by removing weeds and amending the soil with compost. Soak seeds and sow. Soak parsley seeds overnight and then sow the seeds 1/4 inch deep and about 1 to 2 inches apart in rows spaced about 12 to 18 inches from each other. Water. Water the site well and wait for the seedlings to sprout. Pick the best seedlings. When the seedlings are 2 inches tall, thin out the weakest plants and leave about 8 to 10 inches of space between the remaining seedlings. Mulch and care. Add mulch and continue to care for your parsley until harvest. Indoors If you live in a cold area and want to harvest parsley earlier, start seeds indoors about six to eight weeks before your last frost date. Soak seeds. Soak parsley seeds in water for 12 to 24 hours before planting to boost germination rates. Ready seeds in trays. Fill pots or seed starting trays with a pre-moistened seed starting mix, plant 1 to 2 parsley seeds per pot or seeding cell, and cover the seeds with about 1/4-inch of soil. Give light and water. Move the seeds under a bright grow light and water them just enough to keep the soil evenly moist. Adjust lighting after sprouting. Once the seedlings sprout, adjust the grow light as needed to keep it about 2 inches above the top of the plants at all times. Continue watering. Pick the best seedlings. When the seedlings are 2 inches tall, thin out the weakest seedlings and leave just one plant per pot or seed cell. Harden off seedlings and transplant. Harden the seedlings off over a 1 to 2 week period, and transplant the seedlings outside after your last frost date. Transplanted seedlings should be spaced about 8 to 10 inches apart in holes that are only slightly larger than the plant’s root ball. Then, water the seedlings in and add mulch. Or keep indoors. If you want to keep parsley indoors, just move your plants into a sunny spot and water regularly. Harvesting Parsley You can start harvesting parsley when the plants are about six inches tall and their leaves have three leaf segments. Harvest the outer leaves first by cutting the plant stems at the soil line with scissors and leave the center of the plant to regrow. You can harvest leaves little by little or in larger quantities, but never harvest more than 1/3 of your plant in one go and wait two to three weeks in between larger harvests. Storing Parsley Freshly cut parsley should last for about 1 to 2 weeks in the fridge if you place cut stems in a glass filled with a few inches of water like cut flowers. For longer storage, parsley can be frozen whole, chopped, or in oil. Or, it can be dried with hang drying, a food dehydrator, or an oven set on its lowest setting, and stored in spice jars in a cool, dark spot. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Aphids, leafhoppers, and carrot flies sometimes target parsley, but these pests can be avoided with crop rotation and row covers, and eradicated with organic soap sprays. Leaf spot and powdery mildew usually occur when parsley plants are grown too closely together or if they’re watered from the top down. However, you can avoid these issues by spacing parsley plants apart and watering at the soil line. Parsley also bolts quickly in hot weather, but bolting can be delayed by planting parsley in light afternoon shade and pinching flower buds before they open.

To take your garden from existing to thriving, you'll want to consider companion planting. These are plant pairings that have a symbiotic relationship in some way, helping the other one grow successfully. Good pairings include plants with shared water and light preferences, pest control, and space efficiency. Bad pairings can happen, too. This often comes down to plants that have contrasting growth and care needs, or plants that attract pests or release growth-inhibiting chemicals. Here's what to know about the best companion plants for your herbs specifically. Basil and tomatoes may be a dreamy combination on the plate, but they also make the best of friends in the garden. For starters, the scent of basil keeps hornworms away from tomato plants and tomatoes can offer shade for basil plants while they're leafy. Master gardener Mary Jane Duford notes that other great companion plants for basil include chives (and other onion family plants) and oregano, both of which can keep pests at bay. In terms of similar care needs, cilantro ticks the boxes. "Cilantro has similar soil and moisture preferences, and basil can take the spot of cilantro in the garden when cilantro bolts as temperatures warm in the summer," Duford says. As for plants to avoid, Duford says to skip planting dill and mint near basil as they can be competitive growers. Sage also isn't a great choice as it needs drier soil. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Rosemary and Sage When you're looking for garden bed pals for rosemary, consider sage, or make it a trio and throw lavender into the mix, too. All together they can thrive in dry, well-drained soil and won't get too competitive, Duford says. Outside of these two plants, think about adding thyme to keep weeds away and monitor soil moisture. For pest control, Duford says that rosemary and carrots or cabbage family plants will ward off pests for one another, such as moths and carrot flies. There are also some plants to avoid planting nearby rosemary. Basil is one as their moisture needs don't align, but mint could be even worse. "Mint spreads aggressively and can compete with rosemary’s shallow root system," says Duford, adding that "fennel can inhibit rosemary’s growth through chemical interactions in the soil." Thyme and Lavender Lavender, rosemary, and sage are wonderful companions for thyme as they all do best in the same dry, well-drained soil and get pollinators to head their way, according to Duford. Another plant to consider is chamomile, which has the potential to boost the essential oils in thyme, giving it a stronger aroma and helping it grow. Thyme also excels at keeping pests away from the likes of broccoli, kohlrabi, Brussels sprouts, and cabbage. Strawberries will experience the same perks as thyme will bring pollinators along and mask the scent of the fruit. Try passing on basil and cilantro, at least in the same area as thyme since they require much more water in their soil. Mint is also too aggressive for thyme. Dill and Onions Keep annoying pests from attacking your dill plants by planting onions within their vicinity. These and other onion family plants produce a scent that mites and aphids dislike, allowing your dill to stay intact. Dill can also provide the same pest-warding properties for a variety of other plants. Brassicas like kale, broccoli, and cabbage can resist cabbage moths and various other pests when they're planted next to dill, says Duford. When you're considering the types of plants to steer clear of, you'll want to keep tomatoes and fennel away from dill. "Tomatoes can be stunted by mature dill plants due to root competition and potential negative chemical interaction," says Duford. "Fennel and dill negatively affect each other’s growth when planted too close together." Parsley and Carrots Cilantro works well with parsley and has similar needs and habits, but it's not the only one. "Carrots grow well with parsley, as they share similar needs and aren’t overly competitive with one another," says Duford. When it comes to pest repellent properties, lean on chives and onions to keep aphids and other bugs from munching on your parsley. Options that won't benefit parsley's growth include mint, which Duford notes will overpower the plant. Lettuce is a no-go as well due to root competition, since parsley's taproot is much longer.

Cilantro, unlike many other herbs, is best used fresh. If you regularly cook with cilantro, you know that keeping a supply of it on hand can be tricky because cilantro is a delicate herb. A bunch of cilantro bought at the grocery store, even if stored properly in water in the fridge, starts looking rather sad after a few days. Fortunately, there is a way to extend the life of the cilantro you buy at the grocery store—by propagating it. You can either grow more cilantro leaves (which does not require pots and potting soil) or take it one step further and create new cilantro plants from the stems. Here’s how to propagate cilantro so you never have to run to the grocery store for it again. How to Propagate Cilantro in Water Separate the cilantro bunch and sort out any weak stems (use those for cooking). For each strong stem, cut all the outer leaves except the center leaves with clean, disinfected scissors. If there are tiny leaves growing from the center of the stem, leave them intact. Put the stems in a clean jar and add two to three inches of room-temperature tap water—just enough so that the base of the stems is immersed in water. Place the jar in a place with bright, indirect light where the temperature is around 60-70°F. Change the water every day or two. Leaf growth should start after a few days. Harvest the new leaves as desired using sharp scissors. Cilantro Propagation Tips Picking cilantro: Only use cilantro that looks healthy and is as fresh as possible. Look for cilantro that still has some of the white roots attached—the more roots that are on each stem, the better. Don’t use stems that are wilted or have any signs of disease such as spotting. Keeping it clean: To avoid bacterial growth, keep the jar and the water clean. It is also a good idea to sanitize the scissors by wiping them with rubbing alcohol. Safety precautions: If your tap water is chlorinated, let it sit for a day to allow the chlorine to evaporate before using. Preventative care: Do not immerse the cuttings in water—they will rot. Only the base of the stems should be under water, never the leaves. Signs of problems: Slime forming around the stems or roots is a sign of bacteria. Change the water immediately and rinse the stems and roots under running water. If the problem persists, start again with fresh cilantro. Signs of exhaustion: If leaf growth weakens or stops after a few weeks, the stems have given their all. Discard them and start with a fresh bunch of cilantro. Signs of vitality: However, if the stems have developed lots of roots about 1 inch in length, you can extend the life of your cilantro even further by planting it in a pot filled with well-draining all-purpose potting mix. Best placement: Cilantro needs light to grow but avoid harsh, direct sunlight. If your kitchen gets strong midday or afternoon sun, place the jar a couple of feet away from the window. Best temperature: Keep the jar away from heat sources. Cilantro grows best in temperatures between 50-85°F. Why Propagate Cilantro in Water? Propagating cilantro in water saves you a trip to the grocery store, especially if you only need a small amount of cilantro at any given time, which is what many recipes call for. The method is easy, cheap, and requires virtually no equipment or tools. Even for seasoned gardeners, it’s an attractive way to get their hands on fresh cilantro when it’s too cold to grow it outside. Propagation of stem cuttings in water is also much faster than starting cilantro from seed, which takes 40 to 70 days.

Mint has a reputation for being one of the most enthusiastic growers in the garden. It spreads easily, often taking over garden beds and treading into invasive territory. But that eager-growing habit also means that it's the perfect herb to try out your propagation skills. You can easily propagate mint, growing new plants to share with friends and family. And, if you're the one hoping for a new mint plant without a trip to the nursery, it shouldn't be hard to find a cutting. "If you ask any gardener, it's likely they have way too much mint in their garden and they'd be happy to share with you," says Ren Elizabeth, gardener and blogger at Eco Friendly Homestead. Here's how to propagate mint to grow new plants. Mint is incredibly easy to propagate in just a few quick steps: Select a sprig of mint that looks lush and healthy. Choose a sprig with vibrant green leaves, particularly at the top. Cut the sprig from the plant using clean, sharp scissors, carefully removing the cutting from just below a leaf node. This is the place where leaves connect to the stem. Remove all leaves from the bottom third of the stem, leaving only those healthy looking leaves at the top of the cutting If you want to give your mint cutting an extra boost, Elizabeth says, "you can add in some rooting hormone, but it's not a necessary step." If you choose to do this, dip the stem in rooting hormone before moving on to the next step. Submerge the cutting in a small jar of fresh water. Make sure none of the leaves are touching the water. You may need to use a pair of popsicle sticks to prop the leaves up out of the water. Place the jar in a sunny window. Elizabeth explains that within a few short weeks, you should start to see small root hairs forming at the base of the stem. These will quickly grow, indicating your mint is ready to start its own chapter as a new plant. How to Plant Rooted Mint Cuttings Within a few weeks, you'll notice that the root growth on your mint has reached a point where it appears to be viable to grow on its own. "When the root hairs are around one inch in length, you can plant your mint cutting up to the top leaves in a container," Elizabeth says. Make sure you use fresh potting soil that is adequately moist. Keep the new plants in indirect sunlight for the first several weeks to let them adjust to their new home. Continue to water the mint regularly so they soil stays consistently moist. Elizabeth's biggest tip, however, isn't anything to do with enabling the mint to thrive—it generally does that on its own. Rather, she has a warning to prevent your new plant from taking over your garden. "As someone who has made the mistake of planting mint directly into my garden soil, please do not do this unless you would like the mint to take over your garden for all of eternity," Elizabeth says.

Winter may feel more like a month of hibernation, but it's perfectly possible to enjoy gardening and see a few green shoots well before spring rolls around. One of the best ways to do this is by propagating and growing herbs indoors. Whether you're interested in growing basil for your favorite dishes or would like the calming fragrance of lavender in your home, we spoke with two gardening experts to get their best advice on propagating herbs during winter. Use Softwood Cuttings First, you're going to need cuttings to get your indoor herb garden started. "For herbs like basil, thyme and oregano, I would recommend to use softwood cuttings, not hard, so that one can actually succeed at getting those plants started," says master gardener Kim Butler. The same can be said for lavender and rosemary. If you don't already have cuttings, it's better to wait for spring. "They don't propagate well from hardwood cuttings, which is usually all that's available in the winter months," says gardening expert Ren Elizabeth. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Keep Your Cuttings Warm You're not the only one who appreciates a cozy home during winter—your herb cuttings will love and thrive in this kind of environment, too. "Herbs develop roots a lot faster if they are kept around 70ºF," Elizabeth says. To maintain this temperature, she suggests using a heat mat, or putting them near your radiator or wood stove. Not only does this give your plants a better chance of survival but it cuts down on the possibility of rotting, too. Be a Mindful Propagator Some herbs are easier to grow than others, and practice makes perfect, as does knowing certain plant behaviors. Even the simplest herbs to grow can have their fair share of challenges—like mint. While you may want to move these herbs outside come springtime, Elizabeth warns against putting mint to raised beds or directly into the ground. "It really will take over and it is really difficult to stop its spread," Elizabeth says. The best way to keep herbs in check is to do your research. Invest in a Grow Light Because winter is darker and colder than spring and summer, having a little supplementary light can help support your cuttings. Propagated herbs need the energy from a light source in order to grow and thrive, just as newly planted seeds might. In order to support your plants, you can invest in true grow lights, or get creative like Elizabeth does. "I use LED shop lights that I have mounted on a metal shelving unit," she explains. "While shop lights don't emit a focused light spectrum like grow lights do, they are very affordable to buy and are energy efficient." Opt for Water Propagation There are a few different ways you can propagate plants, but Butler recommends using a water propagation method by "placing the cuttings in a clear jar at room temperature with the leaves above the water." It's a relatively simple way to get your herbs going and doesn't require any soil from the get-go. However, Elizabeth says to keep an eye out for algae growth. She's found that her water-bound cuttings are often prone to algae. "In order to keep this at a minimum, I change the water a few times a week," Elizabeth says. Add Some Honey Part of propagating and growing herbs indoors is waiting. It takes some time to see growth and get your herbs to a point where they can be planted and harvested. "I sometimes add honey to stimulate the process," Butler says. But she also adds that you shouldn't "use nutrients until they have properly established roots." Keep a System Going Year-Round Winter propagation is totally doable, but it's smart to have a system and routine in place all year long to keep your plants healthy and keep an abundance of herbs coming in. "[I] regularly prune them, rotate my pots, and sometimes move them outdoors for some air, and use those cuttings to start new plants," Butler says. Elizabeth also encourages taking more cuttings than you usually would—especially for this colder season. "By giving yourself an extra cutting or two, you're countering some of the decline in rooting rate that you'll normally experience in the winter," she says. Know Specific Plants' Needs While there are some general herb care guidelines, each plant has its own needs. It's smart to read up on the specific herbs you want to propagate and grow so you know how to best care for them. For example, Elizabeth notes that oregano is hardy and "does well being propagated by division nearly year-round." Thyme, on the other hand, does best when it's layered under dirt in the soil. Knowing what different herbs like will lead to far more success when creating your own herb garden this winter.

Mint plants (Mentha spp.) are known for growing quickly and abundantly. While mint is beloved for its aromatic leaves, which can be used for cooking, aromatherapy, soaps, and more, the popular and fragrant perennial herb is vigorous and notoriously invasive if not planted and cared for properly. When planted directly in the ground, mint can spread easily via underground rhizomes. Once it's planted, mint can be very difficult to get rid of entirely. The best way to control mint's spread and keep it growing healthy is to grow it in a container and practice preventative maintenance such as selective harvesting and pruning. If you're growing mint in your garden, it's important to keep the plants in check by pruning and harvesting them regularly. Follow the tips below to learn how and when to harvest mint for peak flavor and health. When to Harvest Mint You can harvest mint leaves at any point of the plant's life, but the optimal time is once the mint plant has multiple stems that are at least 6 to 8 inches long. If you are growing a mint plant from seed, this timing should be about two months after sowing, and even less time if you planted a more developed seedling that you purchased from a plant nursery or farmers' market. The leaves and stems of a mint plant should be harvested before the plant goes to flower, usually right before summer. This is when the minty flavor will be at its peak; the leaves tend to take on a bitter flavor once the plant begins to flower. Your mint harvest will also be more aromatic and flavorful if you pick the mint stems and leaves in the morning, before the dew has a change to evaporate in the summer sun. As a rule of thumb, do not harvest more than a third of the mint plant at a time. Removing too much can significantly weaken the plant and impact its future growth. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Why Mint Needs to Be Cut If left to its own devices, mint will easily and quickly take over your yard or garden (and even your neighbor's yard and garden). When you cut back mint, it can help prevent this rapid spread. Pruning mint regularly also helps keep a mint plant healthy—encouraging it to grow full and bushy—and prevent it from flowering and going to seed. When growing mint in your garden, it's important to cut vertical shoots as well as horizontally growing stolons, also known as a runner. If you don't cut both parts of the mint plant, it will quickly crowd out other plants in your garden bed. Once a mint plant starts to bolt, the plant's energy starts going towards producing blooms and seeds. Cutting the flowers off can prevent the plant from shifting into reproductive mode, instead encouraging more leaf growth and reducing the risk of it spreading to areas where it's unwanted. How to Harvest Mint Once established, mint plants can be harvested at any time. To start, find a pair of sharp pruning shears or scissors. Wipe them down with an alcohol wipe to ensure they are clean and free of disease. Using sharp, clean pruning shears, snip a mint stem right above a leaf node. Always cut off whole stems rather than individual leaves, as this will encourage a bushier growth habit. Rinse and dry the mint. Wrap it in a damp paper towel and store in a plastic bag in the fridge. To air-dry your harvested mint, tie the mint sprigs and hang upside down to dry in a cool, dry place. Tip The methods you use to harvest mint plants matters. To encourage full, bushy growth in your mint plant, make sure you are cutting back the stems just above where two leaves join the stem, called a node. If you just pluck away one mint leaf at a time, this will weaken the plant. By cutting above a node, you will encourage new shoots to grow faster and fuller. How to Prune Mint for Flowering Generally, mint plants are grown for their aromatic leaves. However, if you want to encourage your mint plant to flower, sunlight is key, as it stimulates mint flowering. To get mint plants to flower, you want to provide the plant with their desired conditions. In addition to sunlight, mint prefers temperatures between 65°F–70°F and soil that is kept moist. If you care for your mint plant properly, it will continue to produce new shoots and flowers through autumn. Most mint varieties have two blooming periods: early summer and late summer. The first flowering period typically takes place from June to July. If you cut back those flowers, the plant will undergo a second flowering period from August to September.

Basil is an herb known for loving sun and warm weather conditions, so it might be alarming to suddenly see the shiny, fragrant leaves shriveling up, and beg the question: why is your basil wilting? There are a handful of care requirements to pay attention to when you're growing basil, and there are a few specific factors that could be responsible for wilting leaves. If you noticed your basil taking a turn, it's not too late to save it. We spoke with two experts to help revive your basil. Why Your Basil Plant Is Wilting Too little water: Landscaping expert Ward Dilmore cites watering issues for wilting basil plants. Underwatering can cause wilt, but watering too often can, too. Too much water: When basil is grown in larger pots, some gardeners tend to overwater. In doing so, Dilmore says wilting, root rot, and leaf spot can occur. Intense heat: Horticulturist Samuel Davis also notes that intense summer heat and highly fluctuating moisture levels can wear down a basil plant. Bolting: They can also start to wilt if they've bolted, meaning they're going to seed and will slowly stop producing tasty leaves. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! 5 Ways to Revive Basil Plants A wilting basil plant can make a comeback. Here's what the experts say you should do to get this fragrant herb back on track. Nail Down Your Watering Schedule Dilmore says that your basil's soil should be slightly moist and not oversaturated. Usually, watering every two to three days is enough for these plants. If the temperatures get hotter and the soil dries out faster, you can bump up the frequency. Water Early in the Morning Basil tends to wilt in the summer because of the temperature change, which affects the moisture of its soil. Hotter days mean water will evaporate more quickly. To buffer this, Davis says to water your basil plants early in the morning so the soil stays moist for longer. You can water more if the soil fully dries out by the end of the day. Amend the Soil The right soil is necessary for successful basil growth. If you chose a random bag from the store, it might be time to switch. Davis says the herb requires soil that's well-draining and rich in organic matter. This helps retain nutrients and keep moisture locked in—but not for too long, which can lead to root rot. Give Your Basil a Little Shade Although basil plants love bright sunlight, they may need a little shade now and then. If your garden is located in a zone that gets extremely hot temperatures during the summer, Davis says that during the hottest part of the day, it's smart to cover it with shade cloths or move it into a covered area. Bring Out the Mulch Another way to help a wilty basil plant is through mulch. This will help retain moisture and keep the soil temperature more consistent. Davis says to spread a layer of mulch around the base of the plants for best results. 4 Additional Tips to Grow Beautiful Basil If you'd like to keep your basil plant healthy and happy for the rest of the summer and beyond, here are a few other care tips: Pinch the top leaves:Pruning is extremely important for growing a bushy and healthy basil plant. If you let it grow too tall and flower, it will no longer produce loads of leaves or become voluminous. To avoid this, pinch the top leaves and prevent them from growing taller than 8 inches. Fertilize your plants: Fertilizers can be instrumental in helping your basil plants thrive. Davis says to choose balanced, organic fertilizers, which will provide ample nutrients and encourage more leaves. Use deep, large pots: If you're creating a container garden of basil, you'll want to ensure the pots are deep enough and big enough to prevent overcrowding. Pick sick leaves and prevent pests: Basil is susceptible to a few different diseases and pests. Keep a watchful eye and pick off any leaves that are completely shriveled or covered with disease. To deter pests like aphids and slugs, you can create a solution with dish soap and water to coat your plant as an armor of sorts.

Bursting with flavor, oregano adds a robust dimension to dishes and carries health benefits. Learn when and how to harvest oregano for the best flavor and the plant's health. What Is Oregano? Oregano is an herb often used for cooking and as an antioxidant for health benefits. Its pronounced flavor is often described as herby, peppery, and minty, with an underlying faint bitterness. As a perennial, oregano will continue to grow year after year without replanting.1 Origanum. North Carolina State University Cooperative Extension. Oregano's name is derived from the Greek, and it means "beauty of the mountain." So, oregano can be grown for its appearance—no need for harvesting. Oregano develops small purple flowers that bloom during summer. Left unharvested, oregano can reach up to three feet high. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Different Types of Oregano Oregano has 45 species, but a few types are used most often:1 Common oregano (Origanum vulgare): This popular type of oregano (vulgare roughly means "common") is frequently used in tomato sauces and on pizza. It pairs well with basil and thyme. Golden oregano (Origanum vulgare 'Aureum'): Golden oregano has a milder taste than common oregano. It is often used as an ornamental plant due to its yellow foliage and pink and purple flowers. Mexican oregano (Lippia graveolens): Mexican oregano has a more lemony-minty flavor than common oregano, since it's closely related to the mint family. Though its taste is strong, the bitterness is lessened, making it a staple of Southwest and Mexican dishes. When to Harvest Oregano Oregano should be harvested during the growing season, right before or when the flowers have developed.2 "I usually harvest oregano just before it starts to flower, as that’s when the leaves have the highest concentration of essential oils, which makes them taste the nicest," says says Tom Farmer, a blogger who writes Our Country Garden. The growing season for oregano varies, but in many areas, it is from spring to early summer. Tip Though oregano is relatively pest-resistant, watch for aphids, spider mites, and thrips. Harvesting Fresh vs. Dried Oregano While milder herbs like cilantro, basil, and parsley taste better fresh than dried, oregano's bold flavor carries through into dried form. "I keep both [fresh and dried oregano] stocked for different reasons," says Lindsay Etemadipour, a holistic herbalist and the founder of Symbi. "Fresh oregano is best for dishes where a bright, fresh herb flavor is desired, while dried oregano is fantastic in recipes that benefit from a more intense, concentrated flavor," she says. "Dried oregano is ideal for soups, stews, and sauces where it has time to rehydrate and infuse its flavor into the dish." She adds that fresh oregano works well as a garnish for salads, soups, and pizzas. Harvesting Oregano for Fresh Use When harvesting oregano, snip off the tops of the stems. The stems include the leaves that will be removed for use. Below, leave at least four to six pairs of leaves per stem. This helps the oregano produce more leaves for future harvesting. "When harvesting oregano, you want to focus on three things: time of day, frequency, and maturity," Etemadipour says. "First, you want to ensure that you wait until oregano is about to flower, but not after it flowers. Once the plant flowers, the leaves will start to become bitter." Choosing the best time of day for harvesting is also critical. "You want to harvest mid-morning, after any nighttime dew has dried and before the day's heat," she says. "The herb's flavor is most potent at this time due to the oils." Farmer has a suggestion for harvesting oregano so you can get another batch. "I use sharp scissors to cut the stems just above a pair of leaves about one-third of the way down, as this allows the plant to re-shoot so I can harvest it again in a few months," he says. Tip Oregano and basil can be planted together, as they work together to keep mosquitoes, spider mites, aphids, and pests away. Harvesting Oregano for Dried Use Harvesting oregano for dried use is similar to harvesting for fresh use, but as Farmer points out, there are a couple of differences. "For drying, I aim to harvest a few more leaves, so I choose stems that are just about to flower and cut above a pair of leaves around two-thirds of the way down the stem," he says. he job isn't finished when you have collected your herbs, Farmer says. "I then bundle these stems and hang them upside down on a rack in my kitchen as it’s warm and dry. It normally takes about a week for them to dry out completely, depending on how humid it is outside." As a final step, Farmer packs the dried oregano in airtight containers until he needs it. How to Care for Oregano After Harvesting After harvesting, it's important to care for oregano to enable regrowth and for the oregano plant's continued health. "Regular harvesting helps keep the plant healthy and producing," Etemadipour says. "I usually harvest when the plant stems are about five inches tall. This will guarantee a few harvests a season." Farmer adds that water and fertilizer are important. "To keep the plant healthy after I’ve harvested it, I give it a really good water and a light feed with some liquid fertilizer. If any stems have already flowered when I come to harvest, I cut them back in the same way, discarding them, as this prevents the plant from putting all of its energy into the flowers." Tips for Harvesting Oregano Pick the right time of day, usually mid-morning. Snip the leaves rather than pulling them off by hand. Prune (or harvest) oregano to maintain health, even if you don't plan to consume the herb. Bundle the snipped stems with a rubber band, placing the band on the snipped end. If pruning for plant health only, prune aggressively: as low as 2 to 3 inches.3 For cooking use, harvest oregano around two times per year.3 Rinse the oregano right after harvesting to give it time to air-dry before use.

Thyme is an easy-growing, Mediterranean evergreen shrub that is generally low maintenance, thriving in sun conditions. It's drought tolerant and comes back every year. But it does have one quirk—you have to harvest thyme correctly if you want it to thrive rather than die. It needs to be harvested regularly to keep its woody growth from taking over but, if you chop off too much, you risk damaging or killing the plant. Want to know how to get it exactly right? Here's how to harvest thyme, when to do it, and exactly how much to take. When to Harvest Thyme A quick harvest for just a few sprigs for a recipe doesn't need to be carefully timed. If you need it, take it. However, if you plan on harvesting more of the plant, then it's best to do that during the growing season, which typically runs from spring through early summer. You can also harvest before winter's cooler temperatures begin to set in. Try to harvest in the morning, which is when thyme's flavors are their strongest. If left to its own devices, thyme can become woody or it can flower, which can negatively impact the flavor of the herb. Harvesting thyme prevents woody growth, encourages more stems to fill in, and keeps the flavor of the thyme fresh and herbal. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! How to Harvest Thyme The first step in any harvest is to grab a sharp, clean pair of pruning shears or scissors and focus on the top of the plant. Carefully cut off a sprig either at the soil or above a leaf node. If your goal is to harvest thyme for culinary use, avoid the woody stems, which don't have the same flavor as the younger leaves. You should always be judicious in how much you take from a thyme plant. Too much, and you could damage or even kill the plant. Not enough, and you're not giving the plant an opportunity to fill out and grow to its full potential. You can take the more mature stems in order to help you shape the plant, but remember to leave enough that the plant is able to recover and grow back. Tip Drying thyme? Bundle the sprigs as you go, aiming for 40 sprigs in each bundle. How Much Thyme Should You Harvest? Harvesting thyme could mean a small cut or a big cut. You could trim off just a few stems, or you could cut off the entire top of the plant for a major harvest. For a significant harvest, you can trim up to half the plant, starting with the leaves on top, which should prevent the plant from blooming. Don't be shy in your cuts, but be sure to leave enough woody stems on the bottom for the plant to regrow. There should also be green leaves remaining after you've completed the harvest. How to Store Thyme If you're tempted to use up all of your fragrant thyme right away, go for it—thyme is most flavorful immediately after harvesting. As it sits for longer, its flavorful oils begin to fade away. That doesn't necessarily mean you can't use it, however, it won't have the same oomph. Here are four ways to store thyme. Store Thyme in a Damp Paper Towel in the Fridge If you don't plan on using it in the first few days and need to buy yourself some time, resist the urge to take the leaves off the stem. Storing it all in one piece helps maintain the flavor, especially if you put them inside a plastic bag, wrapped in a damp paper towel. This should keep your thyme for up to two weeks. Put Thyme in a Glass of Water Because thyme can be propagated in water, it makes sense that you can also keep it in the fridge in small glass of water (don't forget to regularly change the water). While the thyme won't continue to grow, it will stay perky for up to a few months. Freeze Cubes of Thyme Thyme can also be kept in the freezer for use in a pinch in a soup or sauce. Chop it up finely, then put it in an ice cube tray with a thin layer of water on top. Wait until the cubes freeze, then pop them out to throw in your next chicken soup. Dry Thyme Your last option is also the longest-lasting. You can dry thyme to use exactly as you'd use dried thyme from the grocery store. Hang bunches of thyme upside down in a dark closet for two weeks. Once it's dried, store the full bunches in a resealable bag, and break the leaves off the stems when you're ready to use it. Tip Short on time? You can also dry thyme by putting it in a dehydrator or in the oven at 170 degrees Fahrenheit, with the door slightly ajar. Check the thyme regularly. When it crumbles in your fingers, it's ready. Harvesting vs. Pruning Thyme: What's the Difference? While harvesting and pruning thyme both involve cutting back the plant, they are not the same. Harvesting and pruning have both different goals and approaches, though both will prevent the plant from becoming too woody. With harvesting, you're cutting the plant at the ideal time in its growth to enhance the flavor of the stems you're gathering. This is typically done in the spring or summer and, ideally, thyme is harvested before it blooms. With pruning, you just want to make sure to trim the plant before winter to give it time to recover. You can prune thyme after it has bloomed—at this point, the flavor doesn't typically matter. This is being done for the health of the plant and making sure that it comes back next year, ready to produce a new crop.