fruits

Strawberries should be watered anytime the top inches of soil are dry. Water strawberries in the morning for best results. If leaves are discolored, fruits are not as flavorful, or growth is odd, check if you are over or underwatering your plant. The importance of properly watering strawberries cannot be overstated—without proper irrigation, you won’t be able to harvest the juicy fruit that makes growing your own strawberries a worthwhile effort. Strawberries have shallow root systems. This makes them especially sensitive to water deficit and a water-stressed plant can’t produce the juicy berries you are craving. Overwatering strawberries also backfires and causes problems such as rotting. Here is what you need to know about how much to water strawberries and when. How Often to Water Strawberries Water newly planted strawberries thoroughly immediately after planting and then daily for the first week after planting. In the second week after planting, switch to an every other day schedule, unless the weather is very hot and dry. As the plants get established, transition to a weekly watering schedule. During the active growing season between spring and fall, strawberries need at least 1 inch of water per week, or often enough to keep the top layer of soil moist. As it depends on different factors how often strawberries need water, the watering frequency ranges between daily to once or twice a week (less if there is abundant rainfall). Strawberries need the most water during the fruit production stage and up the harvest. If there is no abundant rainfall during harvest time, that’s the time when you need to water strawberry plants the most often. As soon as you see flowers form, start monitoring the soil moisture closely. Because container plants dry out much faster than strawberries planted in garden soil, potted strawberries need to be watered more often. Check the soil moisture level every morning and water the strawberries once or twice daily, depending on the weather and how fast the soil dries out. The smaller the pot, the more often you need to water. Mulch to Maintain Moisture Levels Spreading a 1-inch layer of organic mulch such as wood chips around your strawberry plants keeps the soil moist and helps to reduce the watering frequency. Make sure not to cover the center (crown) from where new growth emerges. When to Water Strawberries While there is no hard-and-fast rule about how often you need to water strawberries, the best time of the day to water them is in the morning. Watering them early in the day prepares them for a hot day in the sun and it’s much better than at night when foliage takes much longer to dry, with the inherent risk of fungal diseases spreading. However, during a heat wave this should not deter you from watering the plants again in the evening if the soil is dry. Insert a finger in the soil—if the top inches feel dry, the plants should be watered no matter what time of the day it is. How to Water Strawberries The best method to water strawberries in garden soil is drip irrigation or a soaker hose. It not only saves water, but also keeps the foliage and fruit dry. Place the system so that it gets the soil around the plants wet but leave some distance to the growing berries. Water container-grown strawberries with a watering can, taking care not to get the leaves wet. No matter which watering method to use, water enough so that the soil is slightly damp but not dry or soggy. Signs of Overwatering Overwatering strawberries is not only wasteful, but it also has detrimental effects on the strawberries. These include: Root rot, a fungal infection that occurs in wet soil with poor drainage. Wilting of the plants, indicating oversaturated soil that lacks air pockets with oxygen. Brown or yellow leaves, especially at the tips of the leaves. Slow overall growth. Diluted flavor.1 If you have overwatered your strawberries, let them dry out before restarting a more conservative watering routine. Signs of Underwatering Typically, older strawberry plants are more prone to show signs of underwatering than young plants because they are less able to retain water. The following are typical indicators for underwatered plants: Dry, crisp leaves. Smaller leaves than those of properly watered strawberries. Less growth with fewer runners, crowns, and leaves. Fewer flowers, resulting in fewer and smaller fruits. Water your plants thoroughly and adjust your watering routine to avoid repeated water depravation, which weakens the plant further.

Know what kind of tomato plant you're sowing—determinate tomatoes need less space than indeterminate varieties. Determinate tomato varieties do better in containers or raised beds because they do not need as much space. Proper spacing of tomato plants protects from potential diseases and set plants up to fruit more. Whether you start your tomatoes from seed or buy tomato seedlings, keep in mind while you plant them that proper spacing is essential for successful growing. As a rule of thumb, allow 2 to 3 feet of space in all directions for each plant, though the exact spacing depends on what type of tomato you're planting.1 Read on to learn about properly spacing determinate vs. indeterminate tomatoes, the pitfalls of insufficient spacing, and other tomato growing tips. Spacing Determinate vs. Indeterminate Tomatoes Before planting, check the seed package or the plant label, which should tell you if the tomato variety is determinate or indeterminate. Both tomato types are vines, but determinate tomatoes require less space than indeterminate tomatoes so the exact spacing depends on what type of tomato you are planting. Tomato spacing is usually given in two measurements: space between plants and space between rows. Determinate Tomatoes Determinate tomatoes grow only to a certain height, then flower, set fruit, and ripen within a short timeframe. They can be planted as little as one to two feet apart (though ideally in the 18-14 inches range) in rows 3 to 4 feet apart. The plants are often compact enough that they don’t require support. Because of their limited growth, they also don’t need pruning. Indeterminate Tomatoes Indeterminate tomatoes are the exact opposite—they have a long growing season that only ends with the first fall frost. They need a much more generous spacing than determinate tomatoes and should be spaced at least three to four feet apart in rows at least four feet apart. Indeterminate tomatoes should always be staked, trellised, or caged. Pruning the plants is also essential to keep the vigorous growth under control. Why It's Important to Space Tomatoes Properly Proper spacing between plants is important to keep tomato plants healthy. Even with the best care, these plants are prone to numerous diseases including fungal diseases (like early blight and late blight) and viruses (like tomato mosaic virus). Plants growing in crowded conditions with poor air circulation are an ideal breeding ground for fungal diseases to spread. Generous spacing between tomato plants is also important to give you easy access for pruning, weeding, and harvesting without the risk of damaging neighboring plants. Signs Tomatoes Are Planted Too Close Together Unfortunately, not giving your tomato plants sufficient space will backfire sooner or later in the growing season. You'll know that you skimped on spaced if these symptoms are true of your plants. Poor harvest. The plants are growing slowly or producing a poor harvest because they are competing for nutrients and water. No visual borders. You cannot tell where one plant ends, and the next one starts because the vines have become entangled. Soggy foliage. The foliage remains wet for hours after rainfall even in warm summer weather because there is inadequate airflow. Difficulty harvesting. Harvesting the tomatoes is tedious because you cannot easily access the plants from all sides. Additional Tomato Growing Tips To make your tomato season a success, here are some other key tips for growing delicious tomatoes: Plant them in full sun where they get at least six to eight hours daily. Get the soil ready for planting with soil amendments and compost. Also, check if the pH is on target (between 6.2 and 6.8).2 Tomatoes: From Seedlings to Fruit. Penn State Extension. Fertilize them every two weeks during the growing season. Make sure to water the plants deeply and regularly at the base. Harvest them at the right time. Not all tomatoes are red when they are ripe so know the checklist of signs to look for.

Tomato plants are the most popular vegetable grown in the home garden, so all we want is for them to thrive and produce a bountiful harvest.1 Tomatoes Growing Guide. Cornell University. There are several ways to support tomatoes as they grow, but could coffee grounds be the secret ingredient to growing tomato plants successfully? The answer is no, but if composted properly, it won't hurt the plants. We share everything you need to know about using coffee grounds for tomato plants in the garden. Why Coffee Grounds Can Work for Tomatoes Coffee grounds contain nitrogen (about two percent) and trace amounts of phosphorus and potassium necessary for plant growth. But, scattering coffee grounds on the top of the soil or even working it in slightly is not effective. The caffeine residues in the used coffee grounds can actually suppress germination and slow the growth of some plants. The grounds don't release their beneficial components until organisms in the soil break them down—that can take months in a compost pile. The best way to use coffee grounds for tomato plants is to add them to your compost pile of leaves, grass clippings, and vegetable trimmings. Turn the compost pile often, and then use the organically rich mixture to enrich the garden or container soil before you add the tomato plants. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Should You Use Coffee Grounds to Fertilize Tomatoes? Coffee grounds should not be used as the sole fertilizer for tomato plants. The grounds do not contain the nutrient balance that tomatoes need to thrive, and adding too many grounds will affect the soil's pH. Tomato plants can tolerate slightly acid soils, as low as pH 5.5. But plants are the healthiest and most productive when the soil pH is 6.0 to 6.8. Suppose you use organically rich soil (that can contain some composted coffee grounds). In that case, you may not need to add a great deal of fertilizer when planting tomatoes or throughout the growing season. Benefits of Traditional Fertilizer vs. Coffee Grounds Coffee grounds contain just two percent nitrogen and mere traces of phosphorus and potassium, and it takes weeks or months for the grounds to break down enough to release these nutrients into the soil. Most tomato plants benefit from the application of a balanced NPK fertilizer a few times throughout the growing season. Avoid using a fertilizer that is high in nitrogen (N), as you will get excessive leaf formation and less fruit. Appropriate levels of potassium and phosphorus have positive effects on fruit sugar and acid content. Proper fertilization also produced tomatoes with more health-promoting carotenoids and red lycopene beneficial to human nutrition. Adequate plant nutrition is important in producing tasty tomatoes with better flavor and appearance.

If you're looking for a truly other-worldly fruit to grow on a plant that blooms only at night with large fragrant flowers, look no further than the dragon fruit plant. Also known as dragon fruit cactus or pitahaya, the plant is native to Mexico, Central America, and South America. Known for its bright pink, leathery skin with thorn-like fins, dragon fruit is sweet on the inside, featuring brightly colored flesh with tiny black seeds. In addition to producing unusual, nutritious, and showy fruit, these fast-growing perennial cacti also have ornamental value in your outdoor landscape. The plants grow up to 20 feet tall and produce aerial roots that allow them to cling to surfaces, creating their creeping, climbing habit. Smaller varieties of dragon fruit cactus are also grown indoors as houseplants. How to Plant Dragon Fruit Cactus When to Plant Dragon fruit cactus is best planted in the early spring to take full advantage of its growing season from March to August. Selecting a Planting Site To successfully grow your own dragon fruit plant, you need a location with well-drained soil in full sun to partial shade and ample space. This is a large, heavy cactus with a spreading habit and long stems. Make sure to plant it 15 to 25 feet away from your home and other structures, trees, and electrical lines. Spacing, Depth, and Support Dig a hole that is 3 to 4 times in diameter and 3 times as deep as the nursery container (this loosens up the soil and aids in root development). Refill the hole with enough soil so that when you place the plant in the hole, it is at the same level as it was in the container. Space plants at least 6 feet apart and support them with a strong trellis. Dragon Fruit Plant Care In tropical or subtropical conditions that mimic its natural habitat, dragon fruit cactus is a fast and vigorous grower. The most challenging part is to get the plants pollinated for fruit production. Light Although dragon fruit plants enjoy warm weather and are often planted in full sunlight, too much intense sun in dry and especially hot regions causes stem damage. If temperatures in your area are frequently near 100 degrees F, it's best to plant your cactus in a spot with partial shade. Too much shade, on the other hand, typically results in less abundant fruit production and the quality of your harvest may not be as impressive. Soil Dragon fruit cacti are not terribly fussy when it comes to soil type or pH level. The key is that the soil is moist, rich in organic matter, and well-draining. Mulch around the base of the plant—especially in drier regions—to help the soil retain its moisture. Water Although the dragon fruit plant has some drought tolerance, to produce a good fruit crop, it's best to water it consistently from the beginning of the bloom to harvest. However, excessive watering risks root rot and various forms of fungal disease. During the winter and into early spring, give the plant less water. Temperature and Humidity Dragon fruit plants are native to tropical regions, they won't survive in areas that experience freezing weather, especially if that freeze is prolonged. Temperatures ranging from 65 degrees F to 80 degrees F at the highest are considered optimal growing conditions. Fertilizer Dragon fruit cacti are fast growers and heavy feeders. During their first year, fertilize them every couple of months with a complete balanced fertilizer, ideally one with a high nutrient content, such as 20-20-20. Once the plants are well-established, they should do fine with just a couple of fertilizer applications in the spring and summer. In addition, amend the soil with compost or organic matter a couple of times a year. Pollination Some dragon fruit cultivars are self-incompatible, which means you may need two to three different varieties to ensure a better chance of fruit production through cross-pollination. The flowers of the dragon fruit plant open at night when there are no bees around; they are mostly pollinated by bats and moths. The flowers of some cultivars remain open in the early morning hours so you might get lucky and bees that are out and about early will find them. If you are growing a variety that is not self-pollinating and want to be sure the flowers get pollinated, you will have to resort to hand-pollination between dusk and dawn. Collect the pollen from the stamen of one variety and gently dab it onto the stigma of another variety. Use a fresh cotton swab for every plant. Types of Dragon Fruit Plant There are about 15 species of dragon fruit plants with different fruit colors, as well as numerous hybrid varieties. Popular ones include: ‘American Beauty’: a self-fertile cultivar of Hylocereus guatemalensis. It has red skin with green bracts and bright, magenta-colored flesh. ‘Dark Star’: a self-sterile hybrid with dark pink skin and purple flesh that has grape-like flavor. ‘David Bowie’: a self-fertile and self-pollinating cultivar of Hylocereusundatus with pinkish-red skin that is covered with numerous green bracts. The flesh is white with a lemony taste. ‘Purple Haze’: a vigorously growing, self-pollinating hybrid. The fruit is large, one to two pounds each, with pink skin and green bracts. The purple flesh is very sweet with hints of grape and kiwi and only a few seeds. ‘Zamorano’: a self-pollinating hybrid with dark red flesh and sweet, mild flavor. It is a slow grower, which makes it a good choice for containers. Harvesting Dragon Fruit You will know your dragon fruit is ready to harvest when the flaps on the pink outer skin starts to develop a withered appearance. If it's ripe, you should be able to twist it from the stem with ease. Any fruit that has fallen from the stem on its own tends to be overripe, so timing your harvest properly is important. If kept in the refrigerator, dragon fruit lasts up to two weeks. The large, edible flowers that are produced by the cactus are also impressive—they tend to be white and have a strong fragrance. However, they are usually nocturnal, so you'll only get to enjoy (and pick) them once the sun has gone down. How to Grow Dragon Fruit Plant in Pots For container-growing, choose a smaller variety such as 'Edgar’s Baby,' 'Alice,' 'Seoul Kitchen,' 'Yellow Dragon Fruit,' or 'Zamorano.' Use a five-gallon container that is at least 10 to 12 inches deep, with adequate drainage holes. To prevent the container from toppling over, a ceramic or terra-cotta pot works better than lightweight plastic. Fill it with nutrient-rich, neutral to acidic potting soil (not cactus soil). To further improve the drainage, place pebbles, stones, or bark at the bottom of the container. Provide a sturdy trellis for the plant to grow on. Pruning Pruning your dragon fruit cactus is key to minimizing the risk of fungal disease and insect infestation. Uncontrolled growth also leads to poor light penetration for the tangled center stems, which impacts fruit production. Regular pruning also encourages prolific flowering and prevents the plant from becoming too heavy for the trellis. Plan to periodically cut back any overly long, damaged, tangled, or dead stems as often as two or three times per year. If you're lucky (or have a younger plant), you may be able to get away with a single annual pruning session after you have harvested the fruit. Propagating Dragon Fruit Plant Propagating dragon fruit from stem cuttings is easy and yields fast results, unlike propagation from seed, which is not recommended because it takes up to seven years before the plant starts bearing fruit. Here is how to use stem cuttings to make a new plant: Take a 10- to 12-inch cutting from a healthy stem. Treat the cut end with fungicide. Let the cutting callus over in a dry, shady place for 7 to 10 days. Dust the cut end with rooting hormone and plant the cutting cut-side down in a pot filled with a well-draining potting mix. Water it lightly and keep it moderately moist. Once the cutting has started to root (check by gently tugging on it), gradually move it to a location with more sunlight. It will take the cuttings 4 to 6 months to develop a good root system, after which they are ready for planting in the landscape or larger pots. When planted from a cutting, you may have a harvest within one to three years. Potting and Repotting A mature dragon fruit plant requires a 25- to 30-gallon size container with a depth of 20 to 24 inches. Given the fast growth rate of the plant, it will require frequent repotting to a larger container with fresh potting soil whenever the plant becomes root-bound. Keep in mind that the roots of the plant are very small and hairy and repotting it requires extra caution in order not to damage them. Overwintering Overwintering measures are only necessary below USDA zone 10, where dragon fruit plant can be grown in containers. Bring the plants indoors when daytime temperatures drop below 65 F and there is any danger of frost. In the spring, wait until all danger of frost is past and the daytime temperatures are consistently above 70 degrees F. In fall and winter, reduce the watering, as the plant goes dormant. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Depending on where you live, wild animals could find your dragon fruit crop appealing. You may need to take measures to protect your cactus and its fruit from rats, raccoons, birds, and more. The plants are also attractive to ants, mealybugs, mites, and thrips. Potential diseases are stem rot or canker, reddish-brown, yellowish, or white spots and lesions on the stems and blades (leaves). Rot and canker can be difficult to contain on a dragon fruit plant. Remove the damaged, infected parts and treat the plant with a fungicide. To avoid these types of issues, ensure your plant gets the right amount of sun, moisture, and air circulation.

Mango trees, Mangifera indica, make attractive houseplants similar to Ficus or palm trees. They feature a canopy of long, slender, glossy leaves atop a trunk that can grow 10 feet tall, This tropical thrives outdoors only in zones 9 and higher so is grown in pots in most temperate zones Container-grown plants require special care and a lot of patience to produce fruit. Plan on anywhere from eight to ten years for your tree to produce blooms. From flower to ripe fruit takes between three and six months. Choose and Prepare Mango Seeds Ripest mangoes have the best quality seeds. Once the fruit is removed, clean the seeds for better germination. Wrap them in moist paper towels and set aside for several days until completely dry. Remove the paper towel and brush off loose debris. Use a sharp scissor to cut open the seam along the long edge of the hull. It's tough so you may need a sharp knife to pry the seam apart. Insert the knife just under the inside edge and work the hull open to avoid damaging the seed. Once loosened, pry it open using two hands. The seed comes out easily. Discard seeds with mushy spots and discoloration. Seeds have two other thin, papery coverings. Remove the top one. Now you are ready to germinate your mango seeds. How to Plant Mango Seeds Mango seeds can be germinated in two ways. The plastic bag method is quicker but involves an extra step. Germinate in Plastic Bag You'll need a paper towel, sealable plastic bag, loose potting mix, and a 2- to 3-gallon pot with drainage holes. Follow these steps. Wet a paper towel and wring out excess water. Wrap the mango seed inside the paper towel, place the wrapped mango seed inside a plastic bag, and seal it. Keep the sealed bag in a warm (70°F), dark location. Check the seed regularly to make sure the paper towel stays damp and rewet when needed. A white root or roots should begin to form in about seven days. If roots have not yet developed, rewrap the seed and place it back in the bag. Continue to check every couple of days for roots to appear. As soon as the first root appears, remove the paper towel. Fill your container with quality potting mix. Perlite can be added for extra drainage. Place the seed, flat side down on top of the potting mix, and cover it completely with more medium. Water the pot from the bottom by setting it in a container filled with warm water. Place it in a warm location (70°F to 90°F) with bright, indirect light. A shoot should break through the soil in two to three days. Roots and shoots emerge from the same spot on the seed. How to Care for Mango Seedlings Mango trees are tropical plants that thrive on plenty of sun, warmth and humidity. In climates with warm summers and cold winters grow them as container plants overwintered indoors or in a heated greenhouse. Light Mango trees need six to eight hours of bright sun every day. Light exposure for seedlings should be bright but indirect until the plant matures at around four months when a small trunk is well rooted with a canopy of leaves. Expose young trees gradually to more direct sunlight daily. Growers in northern zones may need to supplement with grow lights. Soil These trees are not picky about soil but grow best in well-draining, organically fertile loam. They tolerate soils from slightly alkaline to slightly acidic from 5.5 to 7.5 pH. Container grown trees kept as houseplants may do well in cactus mix. Water Keep soil evenly moist while growing out seedlings. Mature plants are watered less frequently when the top 2 inches of soil dry out. Irrigate potted plants thoroughly then allow excess to drain before returning the plant to its saucer. Water garden seedlings every other day until established then reduce frequency to once weekly. Temperature and Humidity Maintain temperature between 65°F and 90°F. Plants tolerate dips as low as 40°F but exposure to 30°F for extended periods causes damage and loss. Humidity levels between 60 and 80 percent are ideal. Houseplants benefit from pebble trays or place them in groupings with other plants to raise humidity. Fertilizer Feed container plants once a month during the growing season with a balanced liquid fertilizer. Feed garden grown plants with a NPK 10-10-10 during growing seasons for the first four years then switch to a fertilizer higher in phosphorous and potassium to encourage flowering. Transplant Mango Seedlings Plan to transplant in spring or early summer during active growth. Mango trees grow rapidly and should be potted up when roots fill the container. To pot up, choose a pot one size larger. Transplant into the garden at about four months as long as the tree has a well-developed root system. Choose a spot that receives full sun. Dig a hole deep and wide enough to accommodate the tap root and root ball. Set the tree at the same level as in the pot and backfill. Tamp soil down and water well. Pests and Diseases Container-grown mango trees kept indoors are vulnerable to typical houseplant pests including mites, aphids, mealy bugs, and scale. Insecticidal soap or horticultural oils eliminate them but repeat applications may be necessary. High levels of humidity predispose mango trees to fungal infections including powdery mildew. Prevent these problems by watering at soil level in the morning and providing good air circulation around plants.

After a productive tomato growing season, it’s hard to watch your tomato plants die back with frost. But, here's a gardener's secret: if you have the right tools and a little space, you can keep tomato plants alive through winter and enjoy your favorite tomatoes for years to come. To get you started, here are 3 easy techniques for overwintering tomato plants indoors or out in your garden, plus a selection of my favorite cold hardy tomato varieties for chilly weather. Can You Grow Tomatoes Year-Round? Tomatoes are heat-loving plants that grow perennially in zones 10 and up. But in chillier locations, these plants are typically cultivated as annuals and replaced with new tomato plants each spring. However, if you’re open to overwintering tomato plants indoors, you can keep tomatoes growing year-round in any climate. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Can You Overwinter Tomato Plants? Yes! While many gardeners pull up their tomato plants in fall, tomatoes can be overwintered outdoors in zones 10 and up or in homes or heated greenhouses in colder locations. In fact, tomatoes are surprisingly easy to overwinter indoors and they have many of the same care needs as tropical houseplants. Overwintering Options for Tomatoes Growers have several options when it comes to overwintering tomatoes. Tomatoes can either be overwintered outdoors with season extension products, or they can be overwintered inside as potted plants or cuttings. Which method you choose to use will depend on your growing zone and how much space you have for growing tomatoes. How to Overwinter Tomatoes Indoors Overwintering potted tomatoes indoors or in a greenhouse takes a bit more work, but it’s the only overwintering option that may allow you to harvest tomatoes year-round. Prepare Your Tomatoes Prepping tomatoes for overwintering begins in late summer to early fall. Carefully inspect your plants for signs of pests and disease and select only the healthiest plants for overwintering. Continue to water these plants regularly until you move them indoors, but stop fertilizing them in late summer. Prune Carefully Smaller tomato plants are easier to move indoors, so pick up your sterilized pruners and carefully prune away extra stems, suckers, and damaged leaves. Larger plants should be pruned back a bit more severely so that you’re left with about 1 to 2 feet of the plant’s main stem and a few healthy branches. You can also prune away any lingering fruit and flowers to help your plants transition more easily to indoor living. Pot (or Repot) Plants If you want to overwinter tomatoes in your garden, you’ll need to transplant them into roomy and well-draining planters that are at least 14 inches in diameter. To start, carefully dig up tomatoes before frost arrives, and make sure to leave as much of the plant’s roots attached as possible. Plant your tomatoes in pots filled with a well-draining potting mix and water them in. If you’re growing larger tomato plants and plan to harvest fruit indoors, you may want to add a small trellis or stake to your pot at this time to support your plants as they grow. Acclimate Tomatoes Indoors Before bringing your tomatoes indoors for good, check your plants carefully for pests and slowly acclimate your plants to your home or greenhouse by moving them inside for just a few hours each day. Continue this process over the next week or two, gradually extending the amount of time your plants spend indoors until they’re fully acclimated to the temperatures and light levels of indoor life. Provide Indoor Plants with the Right Care Place plants in front of a sunny window or under a grow light and water them regularly to keep the soil from drying out. Bright windows and temperatures that are above freezing should be sufficient for keeping tomato plants alive through winter. Provide your plants with warmer temperatures, monthly fertilizer, and a grow light if you want to grow tomatoes. Pruning off the fruit, flowers, and wayward stems keeps tomato plants healthier through winter. Hand-pollinate the flowers if you want your plants to fruit. Transplant Tomatoes Outdoors Come Spring. When spring returns and temperatures are consistently above 55 degrees Fahrenheit, harden off your plants over a week or two by moving them outdoors during the day and inside at night. When your plants can tolerate full sun and outdoor weather, position their pots in a sunny spot or transplant them back into your veggie beds. Soon enough, you’ll be harvesting more tomatoes from your overwintered plants. How to Overwinter Outdoors While cool weather gardeners need to overwinter tomato plants indoors, gardeners in USDA growing zones 10 and up can overwinter tomatoes right in their gardens. This method works for both potted tomatoes and tomatoes in inground and raised beds, although potted plants may need a little more insulation. For best results, choose cold-hardy tomato varieties for overwintering. Prepare your plants: To get your tomatoes ready for winter, stop fertilizing your plants in late summer to early fall, but continue to water your plants regularly. Do some pruning: Before temperatures dip, prune away any new growth on your tomatoes and cut your plants back so that you’re left with just a foot or two of the plant’s main stems. Insulate your tomatoes: Add a 2 to 3-inch layer of natural mulch around the base of your plants to protect the roots from cold. Uncover plants in spring. When spring returns and the danger of frost has passed, go ahead and uncover your plants, rake away excess mulch, and start tending your tomatoes as usual! How to Overwinter With Cuttings If you don’t want to overwinter entire tomato plants, you can propagate your favorite tomatoes from stem cuttings or tomato suckers. This technique is a great space saver and can also help you salvage tomato plants damaged during the growing season. Take your cuttings: Before frost arrives, head out into your garden and take 4 to 6-inch long cuttings from your tomato plants. Propagate the cuttings in soil or water: Inspect cuttings carefully for pests, pinch off the flowers and damaged leaves, and remove any leaves that are growing from the lower portion of your cuttings. For water propagation, fill a clear glass container with an inch or two of water and place your cuttings in the water so that the cut stem ends are fully submerged and the leaves are above the water line. For soil propagation, dip the cut stem ends of your cuttings into rooting hormone, plant the cuttings 1 to 2 inches deep in pots filled with potting mix or seed starting mix, and cover the cuttings and pots with clear plastic bags to conserve humidity. Care for your plants through winter. Place your cuttings in a warm spot that receives bright, indirect light, and continue to care for your cuttings for a few weeks until they root. Transplant tomatoes outdoors in spring. Once your plants are properly hardened off, transplant them into pots or your garden beds. Why Should You Overwinter Tomatoes? Overwintering tomatoes is a fun experiment, but it has a few major advantages too. By keeping tomatoes alive through winter, you can extend your growing season significantly. You can harvest tomatoes earlier the following year. Overwintering tomatoes can save you money. It's a great way to preserve hard-to-find and heirloom tomatoes, as well as your favorite and most productive plants. 5 Cold-Hardy Tomato Varieties While frost hardy tomatoes don’t exist, some tomatoes are more cold tolerant than others. If you want to extend your tomato growing season or overwinter tomatoes outdoors in mild climates, these cold tolerant tomato varieties are hard to beat! Glacier. With an impressively long harvest season, ‘Glacier’ is one of the first tomatoes to fruit in summer and the last tomatoes to fruit in fall! Moskvich. An early-season favorite, ‘Moskvich’ is resistant to cracking and grows well in greenhouses. Siberian. Undeterred by the cold, ‘Siberian’ continues to fruit even when temperatures drop to 38 degrees Fahrenheit! Sub-Arctic Plenty. One of the fastest growing heirlooms you can find, ‘Sub-Arctic Plenty’ is ready to harvest just 42 days after transplanting. Oregon Spring. Another early producer, ‘Oregon Spring’ is resistant to verticillium wilt and produces fruit about 60 days after transplanting.

How to Harvest Watermelon Seeds Harvesting watermelons for seeds is simple, but it's important to follow a certain procedure to ensure food safety: Remove the melon: Cut the watermelon from the vine with shears or a sharp knife. Cut close to the stem but leave some of the stem on the melon. Wash the melon: Gently scrub the watermelon with a vegetable brush under clean, running water. Do not use soap.1 Dry the melon: Pat the melon dry with a cloth or paper towel. Hand-drying removes more bacteria from the rind than air-drying. Remove the rind: Cut off each end of the melon, stand the melon upright, then cut away the rind. Use a sharp knife and cut along the melon's curve. Cut the melon: Cut the melon lengthwise into slabs, each slab about half an inch thick. Pick out the melon seeds: Scrape out the melon seeds with a fork. How to Save Watermelon Seeds Wash, dry, and store the watermelon seeds until the next planting season. Remove the flesh: Remove as much of the watermelon flesh or pulp by hand. Wash the seeds: Place the watermelon seeds in a kitchen colander or strainer and wash them with cool water. Remove all of the remaining watermelon flesh. Dry the seeds: Air-dry the melon seeds on coated paper plates, waxed paper, or on clean mesh window screen material. Store the seeds: Store the seeds in airtight, waterproof bags, jars, or containers in a cool, dark location. When to Harvest Watermelons for Seeds Harvest watermelon seeds when you harvest the watermelons for eating, usually in spring or summer. You can also harvest watermelons for seeds only, which affords a broader harvesting period. Watermelons for Eating and Seeds Watermelons should be harvested at just the right time. Watermelons do not ripen off the vine. If you harvest them too early, they will be watery and not sweet. Signs that it's time to harvest the watermelon seeds: Dry tendril: Dried curlicue on the vine closest to the watermelon Hollow sound: Resonant, hollow sound when gently rapped Heaviness: A heavy, dense feel when picked up Yellow underneath: A yellow (not white) oval under the melon, where it rests on the ground Watermelons for Seeds Only When harvesting watermelons only for their seeds, they can be harvested when ripe or left on the vine. When reserving some melons on the vine, let the melons soften slightly but do not let them rot. Leaving seed-only melons on the vine can improve the quality of the seeds. Do not eat the melon's flesh. Types of Seeds to Plant Harvest and save black watermelon seeds for planting. Do not use white seeds. Types of watermelons to plant include: Black Diamond: Popular for their enormous size, Black Diamond watermelons are juicy and sweet but require consistent watering. Charleston Grey: Modestly sized, Charleston Greys top the scales at around 40 pounds and have thick rinds often used for watermelon rind pickles. Crimson Sweet: Crimson Sweet watermelons grow easily in a wide range of melon-friendly climates, and the flesh is uniquely sweet. This melon produces few seeds, so more melons must be harvested to gather the seeds. How to Plant Watermelon Seeds Grow watermelons from seeds either by starting the seeds indoors in pots or flats or by planting the seeds directly in the ground. Watermelons need warm weather without intermittent cold spells, so plant the seeds after the last spring frost. In the U.S. south and southwest, the last spring freeze occurs as early as January. In western mountainous regions, it can be as late as May.34 Watermelon seeds germinate fastest in soil that's between 70 and 95°F. At the very least, the soil should be 65°F, and the seeds should be planted four inches deep. Consult the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map to learn the optimal watermelon growing season for your area.

Peach-picking season extends from June to August, and they are ready to harvest during that period when their skins turn yellowish-red—that's how you know they're perfectly ripe. If you want to grow the tastiest peaches, these quick and easy tips will help you determine exactly when to pick peaches for sweet and juicy fruit every time. When to Pick Peaches Some varieties of peach trees fruit earlier than others, but most peaches are harvested from late June through August. That said, various factors can influence when peach trees fruit—chilly spring weather, drought, and other environmental conditions can delay peach harvesting season. Fresh peaches taste best when they mature outdoors on the tree, but harvesting can be a bit of a balancing act. If you pick peaches too early, you’ll have hard, flavorless fruit. But if you pick peaches too late, your harvest may turn mushy or get gobbled up by birds. Rather than relying on the calendar date, it’s usually best to pick peaches when the fruit displays particular signs of ripeness. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! 5 Signs Your Peaches Are Ripe If you want to time your peach harvest for perfectly ripe fruit, watch for these signs: Color. Ripe peaches should have uniformly, golden yellow skins, which may display tinges of red, orange, or pink. If the peaches still have green coloration, they aren’t ready yet. Scent. Underripe peaches don’t emit much scent, while fully ripened fruit can be incredibly fragrant. In fact, a peach tree laden with ripe peaches can perfume a small garden with a sugary sweet fragrance. Shape. Peaches become rounder as they ripen, while underripe peaches look like green olives with a slightly elongated shape. Feel. If you harvest a peach and it still feels firm or crunches when you bite into it, it’s not ripe. Fully ripened peaches should be slightly soft and give a little when you gently press into their skins. Taste. Of course, you can also test whether or not peaches are ready to pick by trying a taste of a peach or two. When the fruit is as sweet and juicy as you like, it’s time to harvest. How to Pick Peaches Peaches ripen at approximately the same time, although fruit towards the exterior of the tree and the tips of the tree branches typically ripens a little earlier than fruit growing at the center of the plant. When your peaches are ready to harvest: Grasp a peach in one hand and the supporting branch in the other hand. Give the peach a little twist with your fingers. If the peach is fully ripe, it should detach easily from the tree. After harvesting, gently place peaches in a bucket, basket, or harvesting apron and handle them gently to prevent bruised skin. It’s best to avoid washing peaches until you’re just about to use them as excess moisture can speed up decay. To maintain freshness, keep ripe peaches in the fridge, or freeze, dehydrate, or can them for even longer storage. What to Do If You Pick Peaches Too Early While it’s best to allow peaches to ripen on the tree, if you happen to harvest peaches a little early, don’t worry. Unlike citrus fruits and cherries, peaches can continue to ripen after harvesting. To ripen peaches: Place your peach harvest on your countertop and allow it to ripen out of direct sun for a few days at room temperature. Or, place the peaches in a brown paper bag to help them ripen even faster.

The tomatillo plant (Physalis philadelphica) bears small, globe-shaped fruits of the same name. It resembles an indeterminate tomato plant in its vining growth habit but its green, purple, or yellow fruits are covered in a papery husk—which has earned the plant another common name, the husk tomato. Like tomatoes, the tomatillo is a member of the nightshade family (Solanaceae). Tomatillo plants are native to Mexico and Central America but widely grown for their tasty, tangy fruit that matures in about 75 to 100 days after planting and is a go-to ingredient for salsa verde. In its native climate, tomatillo plants are perennials but in most areas they’re cultivated as annuals. How to Plant Tomatillos When to Plant It’s best to plant tomatillo plants as transplants in the garden after the last frost, which usually corresponds with mid-March or mid-April, depending on the growing zone. In hot weather climates, you can also plant tomatillo plants in the fall or winter months. Where to Plant Choose a planting spot with well-draining soil; if soil drainage is poor, plant in raised beds. Tomatillo plants are also a good choice for vegetable container gardening. It’s also important to note that you shouldn’t plant tomatillos in a spot where you’ve grown other nightshade crops, like tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, or eggplants to minimize the risk of certain plant diseases and restore nutrients to the soil. Companion plants for tomatillos include basil and carrots. Spacing, Depth, and Support Tomatillo plants should be buried deeply to promote extensive root development; about two-thirds of the plant can be below the soil line, with just a few pairs of leaves emerging above the surface. Because of their bushy growth, tomatillo plants should have at least 2 feet of space between each plant, with rows spaced three feet apart. Compared to a tomato plant, a tomatillo plant is lighter and requires less external support. That being said, it’s still a good idea to use a stake, trellis, or cage to support the plant and ensure adequate airflow. In addition, at least two tomatillo plants are necessary for fruit production. While a single tomatillo plant will produce lush foliage, cross-pollination with a neighboring tomatillo plant is required if you want to harvest tomatillos in due time. Tomatillo Plant Care Light Choose a planting site that receives full sun—at least six to eight hours each day. Abundant light exposure increases flower production, which is the precursor to prolific fruit production. Soil Well-draining soil is the most important factor when it comes to soil type. Heavy soils that hold excessive moisture can expose the plant to root rot. The best soil conditions are rich and loamy with a slightly acidic to neutral pH level. Water Tomatillo plants do best with regular watering but be careful not to overwater the plant. Only water when the top few inches of soil is dry to the touch. These plants exhibit moderate drought tolerance. Because of the risk of fungal disease, it’s best to water the plant at its base rather than drenching the foliage. These plants do exceptionally well with a drip irrigation system. Temperature and Humidity Tomatillos are cold-sensitive and grow best when temperatures are between 65°F and 80°F. If the temperature climbs too high, it can adversely affect fruit development.1 Fertilizer The best fertilizer for tomatillo plants is a low-nitrogen formula like 5-10-10. This will ensure that the plant receives adequate nutrients to support root and flower development without encouraging excessive foliage growth that can stifle the production of tasty tomatillos. Types of Tomatillos Green Varieties ‘Tamayo’: With fruit that is about 3 inches in diameter, this is one of the largest tomatillo varieties and the fruit has bright green skin. ‘Toma Verde’: This is one of the more common varieties of tomatillo plants because it matures quickly (in about 60 days) and produces medium-to-large fruit that is commonly used in salsa recipes. ‘Rio Grande Verde’: This plant produces some of the largest tomatillo fruits and does so in abundance. Purple or Yellow Varieties ‘Purple Coban’: A smaller tomatillo variety that yields fruit about 1 inch in diameter with a deep purple skin when ripe. 'Amarylla’: A yellow variety of tomatillo with a sweeter taste. ‘De Mipla’: This Mexican heirloom variety produces small fruits an inch or less in diameter with a mottled green and purple appearance and a strong flavor. Tomatillos vs. Tomatoes Tomatillo plants and tomato plants have similar growing requirements since both plants prefer full sun and need the support of a stake or cage while growing. However, tomatillo plants require a second plant for cross-pollination while a tomato plant is self-fertile, meaning you can plant just one and still yield a crop of tasty tomatoes. The mature fruit of a tomatillo plant is also covered in a papery husk and has a tarter, more acidic flavor profile and denser flesh than the juicy, soft, and sweet flesh of a ripe tomato. Harvesting Tomatillos You’ll know it’s time to harvest the tomatillos from your plant when the fruit fills the paper husk, which will turn from green to tan and may even start to split open. To harvest tomatillos, gently grasp the fruit in the palm of your hand and give it a gentle twist and tug, which should snap the stem and release the fruit. Alternatively, you can snip the stem with scissors or garden shears but take note that ripe tomatillos should release easily from the stem. If the fruit has a lot of resistance, it may not be fully ripe yet. How to Grow Tomatillos in Pots Nightshades, which include tomatillos along with other vegetables like eggplants and potatoes, can easily be grown in containers or pots. To do so, choose a deep pot with a generous circumference to accommodate the bushy growth of the tomatillo plant. A 5-gallon bucket or pot (or larger) will provide enough room for the plant to develop. Keep in mind that you’ll need two tomatillo plants, so prepare two pots with high-quality potting soil. Tomatillos grown in pots have similar care requirements so choose a spot with full sun and provide a means of support for the growing plant. It’s also worth noting that plants in pots tend to have an increased need for water and nutrients so you’ll likely need to be more vigilant about watering and fertilize more regularly. Pruning It’s not necessary to prune a tomatillo plant but you might do so to improve the strength of the plant’s main stem and improve airflow. If you prune, do so by removing any suckers that start to grow below the lowest flower on the plant. Propagating Tomatillos Tomatillos propagate easily and in fact, the stem of a trailing tomatillo plant is likely to grow roots when left in contact with the ground. The easiest way to propagate a tomatillo plant is by means of a cutting and you can root it in soil or water. Here’s how to do it: Gather a pair of sharp pruning shears or scissors and cut a 6-inch section of stem from the tomatillo plant. Remove any leaves from the lower half of the stem and, if desired, dip the cut end into rooting hormone (although it’s usually not crucial to growth for this plant). Note: You can also utilize a sucker removed during pruning to serve as a cutting for your new tomatillo plant. Plant the cut end of the stem deep into nutrient-rich, well-draining soil in your garden or in a container, with just the leaves just emerging over the soil line. Alternatively, you can put the cutting in a jar of clean water, with the leaves above the water line. For cuttings grown in soil: After several weeks, look for indications of rooting such as new leaf growth or light resistance when you gently tug on the stem. Once established, you can transplant to another location in your garden if desired. For cuttings grown in water: Once you observe root growth, transplant them to a container or directly into the garden. How to Grow Tomatillos From Seed To start tomatillos from seed indoors, begin the process by sowing seeds about six to eight weeks before the anticipated final frost of the season. Use small containers or seed starter trays filled with soilless potting mix and push tomatillo seeds about ¼-inch deep into the potting mix. Water to maintain soil moisture and keep temperatures between 70°F and 80°F for germination, which takes between one to two weeks. After sprouting, water regularly and expose the plants to bright light, using a grow light if necessary. Once the final frost has passed and the seedlings have taken root and have about a half dozen leaves, they’re ready to be transplanted into the garden. Overwintering In most growing zones, the tomatillo plant is grown as an annual and will need to be replanted each year. However, in areas with short or mild winters, it might be possible to overwinter a tomatillo plant and some varieties exhibit better cold-resistance than others. To overwinter a tomatillo plant, reduce watering as cold weather approaches and mulch the plant to a depth of about 2 inches prior to the first cold snap. In advance of expected frost, cover the plant with a frost blanket to reduce the risk of damage. For tomatillo plants grown in containers, move the plant to a sheltered location for overwintering, like a covered porch or an indoor location. Common Pests and Plant Diseases The husk covering the fruit of the tomatillo plants provides a natural defense against pest damage. But if you don’t support the tomatillo plant with a stake or cage and allow it to trail on the ground, fruit in contact with the ground might succumb to damage from slugs or snails.2 The tomatillo plant is subject to many of the same diseases as a tomato plant. Blight and foliar fungal diseases are the chief concern. To offset the chance of developing these issues, be sure to water the plant from the base, rather than soaking the foliage with overhead watering, and prune the plant as needed to promote good airflow.

Every gardener growing tomatoes waits for that first juicy, fresh, off-the-vine bite. When the wait seems to go on forever and fruits stay green for weeks, it could be that they aren't getting enough sun. Tomato plants need full sun, or closer to eight hours consistently every day, through all growth stages. When your tomatoes refuse to turn red, they could be getting too little sun. Here's what to know about how much sun tomatoes need, and our best advice on how to get them the light they need to give you the growth you want. Light Requirements for Tomatoes Though tomatoes will have different requirements for light depending on the growth stage, they need 6–8 hours of direct sunlight a day to produce the juiciest fruit—this is considered "full sun." Finding the perfect place to plant tomatoes takes some planning, as light exposure plays a major role through all stages of plant growth. In the early stages, poor light with high temperatures can decrease flower and fruit production, increase vulnerability to fungal and leaf spot diseases, and lead to pests. Later, not enough light produces straggly weak vines and small, poor-quality fruits. During fruit development, too much sun leads to a poor harvest with fruits vulnerable to sunscald, cracking, and uneven ripening. Vegetative Stage During the first 30 to 45 days after transplant, tomato plants grow vines and leaves. This is called the vegetative stage and may be a little shorter or longer depending on variety. Vines grow rapidly and use a lot of nutrients. Since nutrients are delivered through photosynthesis which is dependent on energy from light, a minimum six hours of bright, direct sun is needed during early growth. Flower/Early Fruit Stage Between 30 and 45 days you should begin to see small yellow flowers open on your plants. In this stage light energy supports flowering and fruit set. Small fruits start to form between 70 and 100 days depending on variety. Six hours of light is adequate and eight hours can boost fruit production. Excess heat begins to enter the equation and temperatures above 85 to 90 degrees can reduce flower production and fruit development. Ripening Stage Temperature becomes more important during the ripening phase about 30 days after fruit appears. Lycopene and carotene are pigments that give tomatoes their red color. Ideal temperatures for pigment to develop is 70 to 75 degrees F. When temperatures exceed 85 to 90 degrees F., pigment production is reduced and may even stop. Grown and cared for correctly, foliage shades fruits which takes heat out of direct sunlight for more uniform ripening. Six to eight hours is still needed to maintain healthy plants, especially with indeterminate varieties that produce fruit all season long. Why Morning and Afternoon Light Is Crucial Morning and afternoon light are both important for tomato growth. In the morning, the sun is high overhead, shining directly on the garden. At noon it reaches its highest point during daylight hours. This is when it is strongest, producing the greatest amount of energy.1 Morning light is important because it dries dew, decreases nutrient loss through evaporation, and initiates photosynthesis. Afternoon sun exposure extends the daily energy and growth cycle, giving tomatoes the sunlight quantity they need. The Best Tips to Make Sure Tomatoes Get Enough Sun Plant tomato varieties that grow well in your specific growing zone and climate. Mulch to lower soil temperature and improve moisture retention. Orient your plants in an east to west direction to access the first sunlight in the morning and throughout the day. Consider geographic features that reduce light availability or create microclimates. Avoid pruning or removing leaves during fruit formation and ripening. Plant corn or pole beans on the western side for protection from the hot afternoon sun. Leave adequate space between plants for good air circulation. Consider using white shade cloth which reduces heat but doesn't affect light quality.2 Harvest fruit early as soon as it shows color and keep in a shaded area to finish ripening.

Tomatillos produce green or purple fruits encased in a papery husk. Distant cousins to a tomato with a tangy, slightly acidic flavor, tomatillos are ready to harvest 75-100 days after the seedlings are settled in the garden. The fruit will completely fill the husk and easily pull off the plant. As an indeterminate plant, tomatillos continue to flower and produce fruit throughout the summer until frost. Because of the husk and green color, it can be confusing about when to harvest a tomatillo. Follow our tips for the best harvesting results. 5 Signs Tomatillos Are Ripe and Ready to Pick It's been 3-4 months since you planted. The first tomatillos are usually ready to be harvested 60 to 75 days after the seedlings are placed in the garden or settled into a container for the summer. The fruit is firm. If a tomatillo feels soft, it's likely overripe and less flavorful. It's reached peak color. For example, a purple tomatillo variety will be firm, purple, and no longer green when ready to pick. The husk changes from green to a light brown. The husk will be dry surrounding the tomatillo. The papery husk has not yet split. A fully-split husk means the fruit is overripe. When to Harvest Tomatillos Since tomatillos are indeterminate, they will not flower and set fruit all at once. Harvesting should be done every few days throughout the growing season. The fruit should be firm, the papery husk should be full, and a good hack to follow that tomatillos are ready? The fruit will often drop off the plant before it is fully ripened. These fruits can be gathered and stored in a cool, dry place in the husk until fully firm and ripe. After You've Harvested Every Tomatillo for the Season At the end of the season, the entire plant can be removed from the garden or container and hung upside down in a cool area. Any fruit remaining on the vines will continue to ripen and be good for several months. During the growing season, mature fruit should be placed in a cool location immediately following harvest and can be refrigerated in the husk in a paper bag for up to three weeks. How to Harvest Tomatillos the Right Way Tomatillos are easy to remove from the mother plant by hand or with pruning shears. Harvest by hand by giving the fruit a slight twist from the stem. If it does not yield easily, the fruit isn't mature. Keep a basket or bucket nearby to collect the fruit and place it in the container gently to avoid bruising and cracking. 6 Additional Tomatillo Growing Tips Always plant at least two tomatillo plants. They are not self-fruitful so two plants are needed for cross-pollination by insects. An individual plant may produce 64 to 200 fruits in a season. Tomatillos need about 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week and full sun to maximize production. Tomatillos should be staked or caged to keep the fruit off the ground. Since the plants often drop their fruit before it is fully ripe, provide a bed of straw under each plant to keep the fruit dry and away from the soil until you can collect it. The fruit will be sticky when it is removed from the inedible husk. Wash with mild soap and water before eating or processing the tomatillos.

Growing figs can be extremely rewarding—even beginning growers can learn how to grow a fig tree in a small yard or roomy planter with minimal fuss. With their large, lobed leaves and slender, woody branches, common figs (Ficus carica) have lots of ornamental appeal, but they’re mostly grown for their edible fruit, which turns purple, brown, or yellow when ripe and can be eaten fresh, cooked, or dried. These fast-growing trees thrive in warmer regions and are typically planted in late fall or early spring. However, growers in cooler climates can keep figs by growing hardy, dwarf trees in pots and overwintering them indoors. If you’ve ever dreamed of making luscious desserts with homegrown figs or are simply on the hunt for a unique fruit tree for your garden, you’re in luck. You’ll find all the tips you need to grow fig trees right here. How to Plant Fig Trees Figs are typically sold as either bare root trees or potted plants. Both types of trees are planted using a similar technique. However, if you’re transplanting a potted fig, you may need to tease apart or cut through circling roots before planting to encourage healthy growth. When to Plant While indoor figs can be planted in pots at any time of the year, outdoor trees should be planted in early spring or late fall, when the trees are dormant and the ground is workable. Selecting a Planting Site Figs can tolerate partial shade, but they’ll grow and fruit better in full sun. When you’re ready to plant, select a spot that receives at least 6 hours of direct light daily and has rich, well-draining soil, and plenty of space for figs to spread out. Planting figs in a south-facing location can be particularly beneficial in cooler areas. If you’re growing figs in pots, keep plants on a sunny patio or porch during summer, but move them indoors or into greenhouses before winter arrives. Spacing, Depth, and Support To plant outdoor figs, dig a hole slightly wider and deeper than your tree’s root ball and amend the soil with some compost. Gently wiggle potted figs out of their nursery containers, taking care not to damage their roots. Bare root trees will usually need to soak in water for a few hours before planting. Position the tree in the center of the planting hole. If you’re working with a bare root plant, heap soil into a low mound in the center of the hole to support the tree’s trunk. Then, evenly fan the roots out around the planting hole. Backfill the hole until it’s mostly filled, and then water well to help the soil settle in. If you’re growing multiple fig trees together, full-sized figs should be spaced at least 20 feet from each other and buildings. Dwarf trees can be planted a bit closer together. Fig Tree Care Most fig trees take about 3 to 5 years to fruit, although potted figs may fruit earlier. Providing figs with the right balance of light, nutrients, and water during this time is essential if you want trees to remain healthy and produce a large harvest of future fruit! Light Outdoor figs need 6 to 8 hours of direct light, while indoor figs can do well in sunny, south-facing windows. In low light homes, keep figs under a grow light for 8 to 12 hours a day. Soil Figs can tolerate a range of soils, but slightly acidic, well-draining, loamy soils with a pH of between 6.0 and 6.5 are ideal. Standard potting mixes will work for potted figs, while compost blended into planting holes can help outdoors figs thrive. Water Water container-grown and young fig trees regularly with about 1 inch of water per week. Established, outdoor trees may not need any additional water beyond rainfall. Temperature and Humidity Figs grow best in zones 8 and up, although cold hardy figs can be grown outdoors in zones 6 and 7 with winter protection. In colder areas, figs should be cultivated as container plants and moved indoors or into greenhouses in winter. Humidity is rarely an issue with these trees; however, indoor figs may benefit from the addition of a humidifier in homes with dry air. Fertilizer Fig trees are not heavy feeders and inground plants are usually content with an annual application of compost or balanced fertilizer in spring. If you add compost to your planting hole when transplanting, you typically won’t need to apply fertilizer until the following spring. Potted figs need more attention than inground plants and should be fertilized about once a month in spring and summer with a balanced fertilizer. Pollination Some figs need insect pollinators, but common figs are self-fertile and self-pollinating plants that don’t need insect pollination or other fig trees to fruit. Types of Fig Trees Growers can find a variety of edible fig trees, but it’s important to choose figs that are well-suited for your growing location. Dwarf figs are best for container gardens, while cold hardy figs are more likely to thrive in chilly regions. ‘Brown Turkey’: A versatile fig choice, ‘Brown Turkey’ can be grown in pots or inground gardens and it yields medium-sized, sweet fruits with reddish-brown skins. ‘Celeste’: Relatively cold and heat tolerant, ‘Celeste’ is disease resistant, and produces ultra-sweet fruit with purple skins. ‘Little Miss Figgy’: This dwarf fig only grows about 4 feet high, but it produces large harvests of medium-sized figs with excellent flavor. Harvesting Figs Figs are harvested in late summer to early fall when the sweet and juicy fruit develops its mature color and starts to soften. A tell-tale sign that figs are ready to pick is when the ripening figs droop on their branches. To harvest, grasp a ripe fig in one hand and the supporting tree branch in the other, and gently lift the fig away from the tree. Ripe figs should be easy to pick! Figs don’t last long after harvesting and they can only be kept in the fridge for about 2 to 3 days. For longer storage, try canning, drying, or freezing. How to Grow Fig Trees in Pots Potted and outdoor fig trees have similar care needs, although container-grown plants may need to be fertilized and watered more regularly. Mature trees need 15 to 20-gallon pots to grow, but younger plants can be kept in smaller containers. Be sure to select a pot with plenty of drainage holes, use a well-draining potting mix, and position your fig in a spot that receives lots of bright light. Pruning Pruning is generally not needed for fig trees, although you may want to shape young figs by clipping away wayward branches. After that, simply prune away damaged, weak, or broken stems when the trees are dormant in winter and thin out excess fruit as needed to keep branches from breaking. Propagating Fig Trees Figs can be propagated in several ways, but the easiest options are layering and rooting stem cuttings. Layering works best in warm areas where temperatures never dip below freezing. Simply anchor a low-growing fig branch to the ground with landscape staples so the base of the stem is buried in soil and at least 8 inch of stem and leaves are above the soil line. Allow the buried fig branch to develop roots, and then cut the branch from the parent plant. If you live in a colder area or simply prefer to propagate fig trees from prunings or stem cuttings, here’s how to start: Using sharp pruners, cut several healthy, 8 to 12-inch stem cuttings from the parent fig in spring when figs are still dormant but the danger of frost has passed. Each cutting should be about as wide as your pinky finger and the stem ends should be cut on a slant near a leaf node. Add sealant to the cut stem end to prevent disease and dip the end of the cutting in rooting hormone. Fill a 6-inch pot with potting mix and plant four cuttings per pot with the cut stem ends buried several inches deep. Cover the pot with clear plastic to boost humidity. Move the cuttings into bright, indirect light and water only when the soil feels dry. Once the cuttings produce significant new growth, transplant them into large pots or outdoors into your garden if the weather is mild. Overwintering In warm areas, outdoor figs need little winter care; however, in cooler locations, you may want to wrap fig trees in burlap and protect their roots with mulch. Container grown figs can be grown year-round indoors or in greenhouses, but they typically won’t fruit unless they’re subjected to a period of cold. For maximum fruiting, keep potted figs outdoors until a light frost arrives and the tree drops its leaves. Then move the bare fig tree into a cool, dark, and protected spot, such as a garage or basement, and water sparingly once a month until spring. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Protecting outdoor figs with fruit protection bags can prevent birds and other wildlife from nibbling on ripening fruit. Figs can sometimes develop diseases like fig leaf spot and rust, but minor pests like aphids, whiteflies, scale, and mealybugs are more common, especially in greenhouses.

No, that isn't a baby watermelon—meet the cucamelon. Also known as Mexican sour gherkins, cucamelon plants (Melothria scabra) are distantly related to cucumbers, and they bring something fun and unexpected to vegetable beds and container gardens. These climbing vines produce tiny, grape-sized fruit with mottled skins that resemble mini watermelons but taste like cucumbers with a sour, lemony twist. Cucamelons are fast-growing and naturally drought-resistant. They’re ready to harvest about 75 days after the seeds are planted in spring. If you’re looking for a pint-sized edible plant to grow in containers or you want to try a less common crop, cucamelons are always a fun choice. Heed these tips to grow bunches of them. How to Plant Cucamelons Cucamelons can grow as perennials in USDA zones 9 and 10, however, these tender perennials don’t handle winter weather well and they’re generally grown as annuals elsewhere. That said, cucamelons are small enough to keep in pots, so they can be overwintered indoors or in greenhouses if desired. When to Plant If you live in a region with a long growing season, you can directly sow cucamelon seeds outdoors after the danger of frost has past. But in cooler locations, it’s best to start cucamelon seeds indoors about 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost of spring. Selecting a Planting Site Cucamelons can grow in pots or garden beds that receive plenty of sun. For best results, choose a growing location with rich, well-draining soil and plenty of room for trellising or another support system. To boost harvest yields, consider growing cucamelons near flowering companion plants that attract pollinators, such as yarrow, calendula, borage, and dill. Spacing, Depth, and Support For proper growth, cucamelon seeds should be planted about ¼ to ½ inch deep in soil amended with a bit of compost. Cucamelons should be spaced about 12 inches apart. Once established, cucamelons spread vigorously, but they’re much more manageable with trellising. Trellising also allows you to grow cucamelons vertically for space savings and prevents common plant diseases like powdery mildew. Cattle panel trellises, sturdy tomato cages, or bamboo trellis towers all work well for cucamelons, but it’s best to install trellising at planting time to avoid disturbing tender plant leaves and stems later on. Cucamelon Plant Care Light Like most other food crops, cucamelons are full sun plants that need at least 6 to 8 hours of bright light daily. Plants grown in very hot regions can tolerate partial afternoon shade, while plants grown indoors will usually need supplemental lighting from grow lights left on for at least 12 hours a day. Soil Well-draining, loamy or sandy soil with a slightly acidic pH between 6.0 and 7.0 is ideal for cucamelons. Amending the soil with a bit of compost or aged manure before planting can give cucamelons a boost and reduce fertilizer needs. Water Regular watering is key if you want cucamelons to fruit well. These plants typically need about 1 inch of water per week, although plants grown in hot climates or containers may need to be watered more regularly. When watering, direct your hose at the soil line or use drip irrigation to keep plant leaves dry and prevent mildew. Add a thin layer of mulch around the base of your plants to reduce watering needs. Temperature and Humidity Cucamelons are frost-sensitive and they can be damaged by cold temperatures. Warm weather helps cucamelons grow faster and these plants are at their best when temperatures are between 70 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. While cucamelons are typically not picky about humidity, high humidity conditions with minimal air flow can encourage powdery mildew. Keep plants well-pruned and follow proper spacing recommendations to reduce mildew problems. Fertilizer Adding compost to the soil before planting cucamelons can help plants grow better, but cucamelons will still need to be fertilized throughout the growing season. Follow the instructions on your fertilizer packaging and apply a balanced, organic fertilizer every few weeks until cucamelon plants begin to flower. Then, switch to a high-potassium fertilizer to support flowering and fruiting. Pollination Cucamelons are self-pollinating and produce both male and female blooms on a single vine. These plants are pollinated by wind and insects, but you can increase harvest yields by companion planting with flowers that attract pollinators. Just keep in mind that cucamelons grown indoors or in greenhouses will need to be hand pollinated! Harvesting Cucamelons Harvest season usually starts in July, or about 65 to 75 days after cucamelon seeds are planted, and plants can continue to fruit until the first frost of fall. It’s time to harvest cucamelons when they are about 1 inch long and have firm, bright green skin. Overly ripe cucamelons turn bitter and become soft quickly, so harvest often. To harvest, simply twist cucamelons off the vine with your fingers or clip them away with scissors or pruners. Support the plant vines when harvesting to avoid broken stems and leaves. Fresh cucamelons can be stored for about a week in the fridge in perforated plastic bags or containers. For longer term storage, try pickling, canning, or freezing your harvest. Freezing changes the texture of cucamelons, but frozen cucamelons are still good for cooking. How to Grow Cucamelons in Pots If you want to save space in your garden or grow cucamelons on a sunny porch or patio, you can keep cucamelon plants in plastic or terracotta pots and planters, or fabric grow bags. One advantage of growing cucamelons in containers is that you can move plants indoors if cold weather is in the forecast. Choose a growing container with drainage holes at least 12 inches wide by 12 inches deep. Fill the container with a rich, well-draining potting mix and add a small trellis to keep cucamelons vines from spreading too vigorously. You should water and fertilize container-grown cucamelons more regularly than plants grown in vegetable beds. Pruning Cucamelons usually don’t need much pruning, although you will want to clip away dead, damaged, or diseased leaves when you see them. Light pruning thins out leaves, boosts air flow, and reduces the chances of mildew. If you grow cucamelons in containers or your vines spread too quickly, pruning controls the growth and size of particularly vigorous vines. How to Grow Cucamelons From Seed Cucamelon seeds are usually started indoors about 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost date of spring. Sow seeds ¼ to ½ inch deep in pots filled with a quality seed starting mix, water well, and then place the pots under grow lights. Once cucamelons are a few inches tall and frost is no longer expected, harden off young plants for a week or two. Then transplant your cucamelons into pots or a vegetable garden and add a nearby trellis to support vines as they grow. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Compared to many other food crops, cucamelons are relatively resistant to pests and diseases. However, cucamelons can still develop issues like powdery mildew, aphids, slugs, and snails. Companion planting with fragrant herbs and flowers can reduce pest issues naturally, while powdery mildew can be prevented by watering plants at their roots and using pruning and trellising to increase air flow around plant leaves.

When to pick banana peppers depends on the varieties you’re growing, your own personal tastes, and how you intend to use your harvest. It's best to pick banana peppers a bit on the earlier side after they surpass 4 inches and turn pale yellow. But, if you enjoy things on the spicy side, you can let banana peppers mature a bit longer and harvest them when their skin is bright red—their flesh is then packed with heat. Use the tips below to harvest banana peppers at different times for a sweet or spicy pepper harvest that’s ideal for pickling, canning, or fresh eating. When to Harvest Banana Peppers Most banana peppers will be ready to pick in about 60 to 70 days. However, harvesting timelines can vary slightly depending on the peppers you’re growing. It’s always a good idea to consult seed packets or plant labels for specific harvesting guidelines. Like other pepper varieties, banana peppers can be harvested at different times to achieve different flavors. You can harvest them on the greener side, although they don’t have the best flavor. Most often, banana peppers are picked when they turn yellow (hence the name), which yields crunchy and sweet peppers that are ideal for pickling and canning. 5 Signs Your Banana Peppers Are Ready to Pick Banana peppers can mature at different rates, depending on the sunlight they receive, the local temperature, weather patterns, and other factors. But if your peppers display these signs of ripeness, it’s time to start harvesting. They develop their mature color. Although banana peppers can be harvested when they’re still green, they'll have the sweetest flavor and best crunch when they turn pale yellow. If you prefer spicier peppers, you can allow your peppers to ripen longer until they turn orange or red. They reach a usable size. Banana peppers taste best if you wait until they are between 4 and 8” long. If frost is on the forecast and you need to harvest earlier than intended, they can continue to ripen on your counter. Their skin is smooth and crisp. Yellow banana peppers have the best crunch, while fully ripened orange or red peppers have softer flesh. However, if peppers have gotten overly soft or wrinkled, they’re past their prime and it’s time to compost them. They’re easy to pick. Ripe banana peppers should be easy to remove from the plant by gently twisting their stems. If the peppers are still firmly attached to their branches, they may need more time to grow. The seed packets say it’s time to harvest. Seed packets and plant labels can provide you with helpful details about when specific banana pepper varieties will be ready to harvest.

Watermelon is a popular melon that can be grown in any garden, as long as you have adequate space and sunlight. One tricky aspect of growing watermelon is knowing when the mature melons are ripe enough. It's important to pick them at the peak of ripeness because, like other melons, they don't continue to ripen off the vine. We're sharing 10 telltale signs to look out for when your watermelon is all ripe and ready to harvest. Weight If the watermelon feels dense and heavy for its size, this can be a good indicator of ripeness. The heavier the melon, the more juice has formed inside. But if you're not sure how heavy a watermelon should be, find two melons of approximately the same size and weigh both in your hands. You can practice this technique in the grocery store, too, to get a feel for how dense and heavy a ripe melon should feel. The Stem Is Mostly Brown If the watermelon stem has turned brown or is more brown than green in color, this is also a potential sign of ripeness. This indicates more energy from the vine has gone into the melon. Dried Out Tendrils The tendril is the curly section of the stem opposite where the watermelon is attached to the vine. Once the tendril turns brown and dry, the watermelon is ready to harvest The Ground Spot Is Yellow The ground spot (also sometimes called the "field spot" or the "belly spot") is usually a small round area on the watermelon where it has been lying in contact with the ground. Once this spot turns yellow, it's a sign the melon has ripened while still on the vine. Don't pick the melon if this spot is still white. If your watermelon doesn't have a ground spot, use some of the other signs to determine its ripeness. Note: this method won't work for miniature watermelons that are grown vertically on a fence or trellis. Smooth But Dull Skin Surface The surface of the watermelon skin should be dull and not shiny. A shiny rind or skin is still too immature to be harvested. The skin should also be free of cuts or bruises. Blossom End Firmness The blossom end of the watermelon is the one opposite the stem. Press gently on this spot; if it's mushy, the melon is overripe. If it's solid, the melon is underripe. If it presses in slightly, the melon is ripe for harvest. Smell A ripe watermelon will have a sweet but not overpowering smell when you sniff the blossom end. If the smell is overly sweet, rich, or cloying, the melon may be overripe. Vibrant Color Your watermelon may have any number of color characteristics depending on the variety; some melons are solid color and some have stripes. Look for a photo online of the variety to get a sense of how deeply colored a ripe one is (often a seed packet will have a photo of a ripe melon also). Wait until the melon reaches a vibrant color before harvesting. Even a watermelon that tends to be a paler green will reach a richer color as it gets ripe, so this is a sign along with the others listed to help you determine ripeness. Uniformity of Shape Different varieties of watermelon have different shapes: some are round, while some or more oval. You want to aim for a uniform shape with no unusual lumps or flat spots. Hollow Interior Sound Thump gently on the surface of the watermelon with your knuckles. A hollow, crisp, and resonating sound is a sign the watermelon is ripe. You will also feel a slight vibration. If the sound is dull and not resonant, the melon is not ready for harvest yet. How to Harvest When you've determined your watermelon is ripe enough to harvest, follow these techniques to do it properly. Cut It Off Cut the melon from the vine with a sharp knife or pruning shears. The watermelon may not pull loose on its own. Clean It Down Gently clean the melon with a soft cloth and mildly soapy water and rinse thoroughly. This is to remove any potentially harmful bacteria (that might be in the soil or left behind by garden wildlife) that might transfer from the skin into the fruit when you carve into it. Store Properly Store your watermelon at a temperature of between 50-60F. If stored at temperatures above 75F, the shelf life is only about 5 days. It's best to eat your watermelon as soon as possible after picking it. If you have any leftover cut portions, place them in the refrigerator.

Raspberries (Rubus idaeus), as thorny and imposing as they may be, are responsible for producing soft, red jewels of fruit. They hail from the same genus as blackberries, and while their fruits take on similar shapes and textures, there are a few differences. Growing raspberry bushes at home is completely possible. Many varieties cross a range of USDA zones, making it fairly easy to find a type that will thrive in your location. If there's a sunny patch in your garden that's missing some kind of plant, it's worth considering raspberries—they take a little while to fruit but will continue to blossom and produce year after year with the right care. How to Plant Raspberries Raspberry canes can really stand out in a garden with their bright green bushy leaves, white flowers, and red fruits. If visions of overgrown, thorny bushes are popping up in your head, don't fret—there are many ways to manage and maintain healthy raspberries. When to Plant Raspberries should be planted in early spring. It's possible to start planting towards the end of fall if you're in an area that doesn't get extreme winters. To find the perfect time for planting, find out the last frost date in your zone and plant after that has passed. Selecting a Planting Site Choose the sunniest area of your garden, even if it's prone to partial shade. Raspberries can still grow in these conditions, just ensure the bushes have enough space for their canes and root system to spread out. There should also be room for adding stakes or trellises to support the plant as it grows. Spacing, Depth, and Support You'll want to leave at least 18 inches between each cane you plant or seed you sow. Raspberries' root systems are on the shallower end, so you'll only need to push seeds in about 2 to 3 inches deep. These plants also need support for them to stretch horizontally and vertically. Trellises and stakes are suitable for smaller gardens—but for a larger row of raspberry plants, installing wooden posts into the ground with wire between is best. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Raspberry Bush Care These plants have a few requirements: sunlight, water, soil, and pollination are all key components to nurture a raspberry plant and help it thrive. They appreciate slightly acidic soil, plenty of light, and need pollinators around for their fruit to form properly and produce a sizable yield. While it may seem like a hefty job, they're relatively low-maintenance. Light It's best to place raspberries in an area that gets full sun. Optimal conditions provide raspberries with 6 to 8 hours of sunlight each day. Soil Raspberries appreciate richer soils, so amend yours by adding compost and manure. Loam soil is also great. The goal is to offer the plants a foundation that's nutrient-dense but drains well, too. Sulfur and lime1 are helpful additives for influencing the pH of your soil if it's not right for your raspberry bush. Sulfur can make it more acidic, whereas lime will increase the alkalinity. Water Raspberries need roughly an inch of water per week, but it's best to provide them with regular watering rather than one weekly deep soak. Avoid getting the fruit and leaves wet, as this can lead to disease and the fruit is prone to mold. For ease, drip irrigation set-ups are often used. With a little mindfulness of how you water them and a well-draining soil, they should be just fine. Temperature and Humidity Raspberries do completely fine in areas that remain cool throughout the year. Colder temperatures aren't detrimental to raspberries, and they usually prefer milder weather. However, there are some varieties that have been cultivated to handle hot summers, too. Fertilizer Fertilizer is a helpful way of supporting healthy growth in your raspberry plants. A slow-releasing fertilizer with nitrogen is recommended, and it's best to provide raspberries with fertilizer before the sun is high in the sky or after it has gone down. The best time to fertilize them is in early spring (about two weeks after planting) before major growth and fruit production occurs. Pollination Raspberries are self-pollinators, which makes it easier on gardeners in terms of care. Honeybees are the primary insect that helps with this process, which not only helps your raspberry bushes but boosts the biodiversity in your garden, too. Pollination is essential for the proper formation of a raspberry. Without it, the drupelets won't be healthy or fully formed enough to create a whole berry. Types of Raspberry Plants 'Amity': This variety produces large and sweet bright red fruits. It's a fall-bearing variety and extremely hardy when it comes to diseases and winters. 'Boyne': Mildly sweet and a floricane-variety, Boyne raspberries are fine for eating but ideal for making jams, jellies, chutneys, and other preserves. 'Heritage': This variety can handle hot summers and produces a healthy crop. They're primocane berries and are an easy type to grow. 'Willamette': For plenty of fruit that lasts, you can lean on the old and reliable Willamette variety, named after the location where it was cultivated in Oregon. 'Nova': This floricane-bearing berry is capable of adapting to different climates. It produces good yields and is slightly tart. Primocane-Bearing Raspberries vs. Floricane-Bearing Raspberries There are two types of canes within raspberry bushes: primocane-bearing and floricane-bearing. It can seem confusing at first, but you'll understand the difference in no time, which will help with harvesting, pruning, and overwintering your raspberry bushes. Harvesting Raspberries One of the fantastic things about this plant is how easily its fruit comes off the cane—when it's ready, that is. Using your thumb and forefinger, slightly tug or twist, and the berry should slide right off. You can wear gloves to prevent irritation from thorns when moving the canes. You'll know a raspberry is ripe when it's no longer green and is fully saturated. The color will depend on the variety, but it will typically be a bright, rosy red, golden yellow, or deep purply red. Green to greenish-pink berries indicate that they're still growing—as is any resistance when you tug at the berry—and it's better to leave these to continue to ripen. How to Grow Raspberries in Pots Raspberries are usually grown in the ground or raised beds, but it's possible to plant them in pots. Containers should be large enough to hold the bush and account for its growth and have drainage holes to prevent root rot. The best way to ensure this is by selecting smaller varieties that don't tend to spread as much as others. These include Malling Jewel, Ruby Beauty, Yummy Dwarf, Zeva, September, Malling Promise, and Autumn Treasure. Give them the same care as you usually would—plenty of sun and ample water—but aim to put your bushes in a spot that protects them from heavy winds. Pruning Pruning and cutting back raspberries is a vital part of ensuring they'll grow back and serve as a long-lasting perennial. Do an initial pruning early in spring to get rid of dead canes or anything that's diseased or suffocating other healthy growth. Propagating Raspberries The easiest way to propagate raspberries is through primocanes, also known as suckers. Suckers are fresh raspberry plants that pop up near your bush—raspberry canes are quick growers after all. To propagate from suckers: Wear gloves to protect your hands from prickly canes and stems. In early spring, select a few suckers that are around six inches tall and separate from your main bush. Carefully pull out the sucker from the soil. If necessary, you may need to dig around the plant to loosen the roots. The root system should be small enough that it won't put up too much of a fight. You can divide the sucker root systems if they're larger and then transplant them into your intended area. To propagate raspberries from cane cuttings: Use gloves to protect your hands, then with a pair of sharp and clean secateurs or shears, cut off a section of cane that's 6 or 7 inches tall. You can use a rooting hormone to support growth, but it's not essential. Push the end into your new soil patch, leaving about half to 1/3 of the cane sticking out of the dirt. The can should form its root system and begin to grow as its own bush. Depending on the type, it can take a year or two for fruiting to happen. Overwintering Raspberries are dormant in the winter and will not require as much water. Ensure you prune your plants back, which directs energy to their root systems. Don't worry too much, as their canes will return in the spring. Mulch around the soil can help with maintaining a more consistent temperature. For the most part, raspberry bushes tend to do okay and are built for overwintering. Raspberries in containers can be moved into a different area of your garden that gets shelter from wind and any heavy rain or snow. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Raspberries are appealing not just to gardeners, but quite a variety of pests, too. Japanese beetles, sap beetles, aphids, spider mites, spotted wing drosophila, and leafhoppers are a few of the bugs that enjoy chomping away. Small mammals also enjoy eating parts of the raspberry plant, including squirrels, chipmunks, rabbits, and deer. Pest nets, oils, and repellant soaps and solutions can all be beneficial. As for diseases, raspberries are typically afflicted by spur blight, powdery mildew, botrytis fruit rot, cane blights, root rot, late leaf rust, and verticillium wilt. Some varieties of raspberries are more susceptible than others to particular diseases. There are multiple ways to handle these problems, through pruning and fungicidal sprays.