vegetables

Peppers and tomatoes are part of the nightshade family and have similar needs for light, water, and nutrients in the garden. They can be grown together, but keep an eye on them because they attract the same pests and disease problems. Rotate their planting location in the garden every year to help keep plants well-fed and to reduce disease. If you love the idea of planting a salsa or an Italian red pepper and tomato sauce garden, you might be wondering how these plants will affect each other while growing. Here, we'll show you how to have healthy tomatoes and peppers in the same garden space, plus a few things you should consider each growing season. Can You Plant Tomatoes and Peppers Together? Yes, you can plant tomatoes and sweet or hot peppers together in the garden. Both are members of the nightshade family and have similar watering, light, and nutrient needs. Sweet peppers mature from seed to harvest in 60-90 days, hot peppers can take up to 150 days, and tomatoes mature in 60-100 days. Their similar growth period is ideal for food preparation and preservation. Growing the two vegetables in the same garden plot helps with pollination and insect control because they attract the same type of pests. You'll be able to see at a glance any issues that need addressing. 5 Tips for Planting Tomatoes and Peppers Together Prep your garden soil. Neither plant is going to grow or produce a bountiful harvest if they are grown in poor soil. Aim for a slightly acidic pH level of 6 to 7 and plenty of organic matter to provide nutrients. Don't overcrowd. If you are planting in containers, add only one plant to each 10-gallon container. In the garden, give each plant a 2-foot clearance on all sides. Skip the sprinklers. Neither vegetable benefits from frequent overhead watering that can lead to diseased foliage. Water by hand at the soil level or use drip irrigation to make sure the moisture is reaching the root systems where it is needed. Add some support. Most varieties of tomatoes and peppers will benefit from a support system of cages, trellises, or stakes in the garden. Allowing the plants to sprawl or fall over will damage fruit and block the sun for other plants. Feed to keep them healthy. These are fast-growing, heavy feeders that require plenty of nutrients to produce vegetables. Side-dress with fertilizer when fruits first form. 6 Common Mistakes to Avoid Limiting air flow. If you've planted seedlings too close, air flow and growing space become limited which could lead to disease and rot. You can help the situation by pruning away the bottom leaves and suckers on tomato plants to increase air circulation. Planting too soon. Everyone is eager to plant a garden on the first warm spring day, but planting before the chance of a late spring frost has passed will stunt or kill your peppers and tomatoes. Selecting the wrong planting location. Both plants need full sun to thrive, so make sure you account for shadows of fully grown plants. Not planting disease-resistant varieties. Whether you start your plants from seeds or purchase seedlings, look for disease-resistant varieties if possible. Forgetting to rotate crops. Pests and diseases can build up in the soil near plants, so rotating the locations where annual vegetables are planted can reduce pest and disease problems. Not harvesting regularly. Peppers and tomatoes mature quickly, so you should check the garden every day. Leaving overripe fruit on the plant reduces production and invites pests (including rabbits) into the garden to enjoy the fruits of your labor. Pests and Plant Diseases to Look Out For Since tomatoes and peppers are part of the same plant family, they do attract many of the same pests and succumb to the same diseases. Common pests include cutworms, hornworms, aphids, spider mites, and tomato fruit worms. Insecticidal soaps and removing the worms by hand will usually take care of the problems. Blight and wilt are common nightshade diseases affecting the foliage and cellular system. Good gardening practices like watering correctly, removing diseased material, and using neem oil can usually keep diseases under control.

On-point planting times are important to make the most of your vegetable plot. What you plant and when depends on your hardiness zone, garden conditions, and what else you are growing or have been growing in your plot—never underestimate the importance of crop rotation and the right companion plants to help prevent diseases. To help get you started, we’ve offered some month-by-month suggestions for when you should plant vegetables and what types based on your USDA hardiness zones. January You can start sowing seeds of cool-season vegetables outdoors or in cold frames in warmer hardiness zones. In the colder zones, you’ll need to start the seeds now indoors (and, in some cases, under lights) and transfer them outside once the soil warms up. Always check your expected last frost dates. In the meantime, it’s a good time to prepare empty parts of the garden for planting. Clear the plot, work compost into the soil, and apply any required amendments following a soil test. Zone 1 to 3: Carrots, kohlrabi, head lettuce, leaf lettuce (start all seeds indoors) Zones 4-6: Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, leeks, onions (start all seeds indoors) Zones 7-12: Spinach, radishes, arugula, fennel, carrots, beets, turnips (all direct sow outdoors) February Raised beds are a good idea if you are planting outdoors at this time of year—they can help protect your seeds from the hardest frosts. Zones 1-3: Onions and celery (start indoors and possibly under lights) Zones 4-6: Broccoli, celery, leeks, onions (start indoors and possibly under lights) Zones 7-12: Cold-hardy lettuce, radishes, spinach, turnips, and peas (all direct sow outdoors) March Now is the time to harden off seedlings to transplant them outdoors. It’s also when you start to have more options for what you can directly sow in the ground. Zone 1-3: Beets, broccoli, cabbage, kale, lettuce, spinach (best to start seeds indoors) Zones 4-6: Beets, cabbage, cress, lettuce, tomatoes, basil, cilantro, peas Zones 7-12: Beans, capsicums, celery, squash, sweet potatoes, lemon balm, hyssop April You can get caught out by late heavy frosts at this time of year in some regions, so consider starting seeds under the protection of cloches or plastic tunnels. Zone 1-3: Arugula, beets, broccoli, chives, peas, collard greens Zones 4-6: Onions, peas, radishes, lettuce, spinach, leeks, parsnips (consider plastic tunnel protection) Zones 7-12: Beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, celery, spinach, Swiss chard, sage May May is often one of the busiest months for planting vegetables. Tender warm-season crops can often be sown outdoors. However, as the weather warms up, take measures to control weeds and garden pests, such as spider mites, aphids, and cutworms. Zone 1-3: Cucumbers, pumpkins, lettuce Zones 4-6: Cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, tomatoes, eggplants, capsicums, cucumbers Zones 7-12: Celery, sweet corn, okra, capsicums, pumpkins, pole beans, Swiss chard June You are spoilt for choice when it comes to what to plant in June. If you are doing succession planting, you may even be sowing your second batch of seeds for some vegetables, like fast-growing lettuce or radishes. Zone 1-3: Peas, kale, chard, arugula, lettuce Zones 4-6: Beans, Brussels sprouts, carrots, cress, leeks, spinach, zucchini, oregano Zones 7-12: Eggplants, capsicums, tomatoes, cucumbers, marrows, sweet corn July July is one of the busiest months. You can be planning your fall vegetable garden and tending to your summer harvests. You’ll also want to water deeply and infrequently to promote a flavorful crop. Zone 1-3: Kale, lettuce, radishes, carrots, cabbage, peas, beans Zones 4-6: Chicory, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, spinach, turnips, parsley Zones 7-12: Beans, broccoli, capsicums, leeks, eggplants, lettuce, basil August There is a wide range of vegetables you can plant in August. It’s also time to prepare your soil for planting cool-season crops over the next couple of months. Deep watering should also continue to avoid drought stress. Zone 1-3: Cabbage, broccoli, spinach, radishes, chives, dill Zones 4-6: Brussels sprouts, carrots, chicory, spring onions, spinach, broad beans Zones 7-12: Beets, mustard, onions, parsnips, eggplants, leeks September Even if you select fast-growing crops to squeeze in an extra harvest, always check your average first frost date when planting in September. You want to avoid harsh weather killing off your crops. Zone 1-3: Spinach, kale, radishes, carrots, lettuce, broccoli, cauliflower Zones 4-6: Cabbage, leeks, cress, radishes, spinach, turnips, chicory, parsley Zones 7-12: Beets, cabbage, mustard, peas, spring onions, cilantro October Investing in protective cloches and plastic tunnels can help you extend your vegetable harvest season around this time of year. Now is also the time to consider whether you want to introduce a winter cover crop, such as clover or winter rye. These non-edibles can protect the soil from erosion and add nutrients back into the depleted soil. Zone 1-3: Garlic, peas, kale, lettuce, carrots, beets Zones 4-6: Leeks, lettuce, onions, radishes, spinach, broad beans Zones 7-12: Beets, cabbage, cress, lettuce, spring onions, peas, dill, lemon November In the colder regions, direct planting even the most winter-hardy vegetables isn’t the best idea as they are unlikely to survive the harsh temperatures. If you are closing your vegetable garden for the winter, now is the time to add organic matter to the soil and cover it in an insulating and moisture-retaining layer of mulch. Zone 1-3: Spinach, lettuce, carrots, beets (start indoors) Zones 4-6: Cress, shallots, spinach, lettuce (best sown in cold frames) Zones 7-12: Cabbage, kale, radishes, spinach, mustard, parsley, leaf lettuce December It’s the hard freezes you have to watch out for in the dead of winter, not an insulating layer of snow. Still, it’s best to plant cool-season vegetables cautiously in the zones with the hardest winters. Zone 1-3: Garlic, kale, spinach, carrots Zones 4-6: Onions, peas, cress, spinach, garlic Zones 7-12: Asparagus, broad beans, spinach, mustard, shallots, onions, cress

Tomato plants, in general, need six to eight hours of direct, bright sunlight per day for healthy growth. Some varieties may be grown in lower levels, but they need as much light as possible because they are dense. Water, nutrients, and pruning are also all essential for maintaining healthy, fruiting tomato plants. Growing great tomato plants starts with understanding their ideal conditions. From growing them in pots versus in the ground, to ensuring they have the right fertilizer and soil, there's a lot to consider. Add to the list: direct or indirect sunlight. For tomatoes to really grow their best, and not get scorched or become leggy, they need the perfect amount of light in your garden. So we turned to gardening pros to find out whether tomatoes should be grown in direct or indirect sunlight for your best crop this season. Direct vs. Indirect Light: What Do Tomatoes Need? According to Kathi Rogers, writer and gardener at Oak Hill Homestead, tomatoes need six to eight hours of full, direct sunlight. "Sunlight is essential for photosynethesis, which is how tomato plants convert sunlight into energy to grow and and produce fruit (the tomatoes)," she says. "The plants use the sun's energy to grow deep roots, strong stems, leaves, and flowers and fruit." Lindsay Springer, Director of Plants, Nutrition, and Digital Agriculture at Gardyn, agrees, and says that eight hours of direct sunlight "will yield excellent plant growth, flowering, and fruit." "The UV spectrum of light is essential to sync the balance of sugar and flavor ripening processes—along with the development of healthy antioxidants," she says. Can You Grow Tomatoes in Indirect or Lower Light? In general, all tomato varieties should be grown in direct sunlight, and that is a basic requirement for the plant. However, Steven Corcoran, CEO of Lawn Love, says there may be a small handful of exceptions—with some caveats. "There are some variations that may be able to tolerate a bit more indirect light or shade than others, like cherry or Mama Leone tomatoes, but generally tomatoes like direct sun," Corcoran says. "These plants simply need that direct sunlight to thrive." Corcoran says that, because tomato plants can become dense as they grow, it's important to provide them with as much sunlight as possible to ensure enough filters through to the plant. "It definitely helps to prune them a little bit and provide them with support to allow more sunlight to filter in," he says. More Tomato Growing Tips Springer also had some other essential tips for growing your healthiest tomato plants this season: Tomato plants are heavy feeders, and will require lots of water and nutrients during their flowering and fruiting phases, Springer says. If you don't have an outdoor space, or don't have enough sunlight, Springer recommends using grow lights (which can even be used year-round indoors). To reduce the risk of disease, "water your plants at the base of the stem, not overhead on the foliage," Springer says. Prune branches that are rubbing against each other, are low to the ground, or have leaves that are turning brown, to ensure healthy airflow, Springer says.

Potatoes should be planted when the soil temperature reaches 45 degrees F, and the soil is relatively dry. Plant seed potatoes six to eight inches deep in the soil and 12 inches apart. Plant potatoes in an area with full sun, and be sure to fertilize them upon planting and once a month after planting. Potatoes are the perfect vegetable for beginner gardeners to tackle. They're easy to grow, and, from each potato plant, you can expect to harvest at least five potatoes. As long as you give the original seed potatoes or tubers adequate moisture and full sun, they should thrive. But the key is getting them into the ground at exactly the right time, which will vary depending on where you're located. If growing potatoes is on your gardening list this spring, here are seasonal indicators you need to look for and when gardening experts say you should plant potatoes for the most abundant harvest. When to Plant Potatoes The best time to plant potatoes will depend on the climate in your region and that season's particular weather. Callie Bush, the edible gardener at R.P. Marzilli & Company, explains that potatoes shouldn't be planted until soil temperatures at at least 45 degrees Fahrenheit or above. This will differ depending on where you are located. For gardeners in the north, you might not put potatoes in the ground until late April. Meanwhile, gardeners in the south could plant them as early as February. If you're in an area where the winter sees significant snow or moisture over the winter, wait until the wettest days are behind you. "The ground needs to be fairly dry and loose because potatoes cannot handle soggy conditions," says Tammy Sons, CEO of TN Nursery. How to Plant Potatoes Potatoes are known for being easy-to-grow and agreeable in the garden, as long as you follow the right process to set them up for a successful growing season. If you are harvesting your own seed potatoes, Sons says, "Cut into sections containing at least one viable eye each and dried for one to two days before planting to prevent rot." When you plant seed potatoes, make sure the eye—the sprout–is facing upwards towards the sky. Plant seed potatoes up six to eight inches deep, and plant each seed potato 12 inches apart. Expect to see sprouts emerging from the soil in two to four weeks. While potatoes thrive in full sun, you should also take steps to protect them from hear. "Hill the plants by mounding soil around the base of the stems," Bush says. "This will encourage more tubers and will protect them from sun exposure." Typically, you'll have potatoes ready to harvest in 90 to 120 days. Where to Plant Potatoes Potatoes do best in full sun, where the top growth (the foliage above ground) can grow thick and lush. The more the top growth is able to thrive, the more it will feed the tubers down below. Ideally, potatoes should be planted in a spot that receives at least six hours of full sun a day, and up to eight hours or more is even better. However, potatoes don't love incredibly hot soil so, when they do get full sun, it's important to mulch around the area to help keep the soil temperature down. Tips for Planting Potatoes in the Garden If you're planting potatoes in you garden, here are a few tips you can follow to get the most from your crop. Use a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorous fertilizer when you plant them, then use a diluted liquid fertilizer monthly. Rather than trying to buy grocery store potatoes to get seed potatoes, buy certified disease-free potatoes. These will have a better chance of success than using the same potatoes you'd purchase for baked potato night. There are over 100 varieties of potatoes, and each has a slightly different growing season. Alternate early season and late season potatoes in your garden so you'll have potatoes throughout the harvest, from July to October. You'll know your potatoes are ready to harvest when the tops die off. This will generally happen 90 to 120 days after you plant your seed potatoes. If you're short on garden space, you can also plant potatoes in containers, just make sure to monitor their water intake carefully so you don't dry out the planters.

Tomatoes come in two varieties: determinate (bushy) and nondeterminate (vining). Determinate tomatoes do better in containers while nondeterminate tomatoes grow better in the ground. Containers are better for deterring pests, while plants in the ground will need less frequent watering. Tomatoes are a staple in nearly every vegetable garden: they’re easy to grow, provide bountiful yields, can be grown in pots and the ground, and there are endless varieties to choose from. And one of the best parts about growing tomatoes is how versatile they are. From sprawling vegetable gardens to tiny patio gardens, tomatoes can withstand various growing conditions. However, is one method of growing inherently better than the other? Is growing tomatoes in the ground better than growing them in containers? We turned to the gardening pros for a definitive answer. Tomato Growing Basics While beginner-friendly and easy to grow, tomatoes require consistent maintenance and care for the most successful and fruitful yield. A basic understanding of how tomatoes grow and the different varieties available is the first step in any gardener’s toolbox. “Most people don’t realize that tomatoes come in two varieties—determinate (bushy) and indeterminate (vining)—and knowing the difference is key to planting success,” says Sarah Rubens, garden coach and founder of Seed to Sanctuary. Determinate tomato varieties, such as ‘Celebrity,’ ‘San Marzano Nano,’ ‘Amish Paste,’ and ‘Marglobe’ (among others), have a short harvest season with fruit ripening all at once. In contrast, indeterminate varieties, such as ‘Beefsteak,’ ‘Big Boy,’ ‘Sungold,’ and ‘Sweet Million,’ (among others) provide a steady supply of ripe fruit throughout most of the growing season until the first frost kills off the plants. In general, determinate varieties are considered lower-yield and lower-maintenance, while indeterminate varieties provide higher yields but require more maintenance. Regardless of the variety, all tomato plants require plenty of water, regular fertilization, and pruning (although indeterminate tomatoes need more pruning than determinate). Which Is Better: Containers or the Garden? The garden may seem like the most obvious answer; more space means healthier plants, right? As it turns out, the answer isn’t necessarily that simple. Several factors influence the best way to grow your tomatoes, including the variety you’re growing and your gardening habits. As a general rule, determinate tomatoes are best suited to container growing because they are smaller and more manageable. In contrast, indeterminate tomatoes are better suited for planting directly in the ground since they require robust staking and support as they grow. This includes many heirloom and cherry varieties. Your gardening habits and the space you have available also play a role. For example, container gardens and pots can be easier to maintain regularly, while in-ground tomatoes may get more easily forgotten at the back of your yard. Both Rubens and Tammy Sons, CEO and founder of TN Nursery, agree that, in general, they prefer container growing for tomatoes over planting directly in the ground. “My experience growing tomatoes shows that both ground planting and container gardening have their own unique benefits," Sons says. "The convenience of containers appeals to me because they can be moved when the weather changes and serve as a defense against pests. There's no better feeling than standing on the porch and taking a sun-warmed tomato from a door-side pot." For more prolific indeterminate varieties, Rubens says that raised beds are her go-to. A raised bed offers sturdier support for stakes and arches that may be required for these vining varieties. Furthermore, planting in raised beds versus directly in the ground provides better soil control and monitoring. This includes monitoring moisture and drainage levels, preventing soilborne diseases, and regular fertilization. “A 17-inch-deep raised bed accommodates a strong structure, such as a securely anchored arch, allowing vines to spread and maximize yield,” Rubens says. Benefits of Growing Tomatoes in Containers While determinate varieties are better-suited to container growing, indeterminate varieties can be grown in containers too. Sons and Rubens include raised garden beds in this category. Container growing tomatoes offers several benefits which may be enticing to gardeners. These include: Better soil control (including drainage, prevention of soilborne diseases, etc.). Containers can be easily moved (to follow the sun or protect plants from adverse weather). Plants are more easily accessible on the patio or deck. Plants can be protected from pests. Pots and containers are more space-efficient. Benefits of Growing Tomatoes in the Ground Growing tomatoes directly in the ground is also a viable option, regardless of the variety. The following benefits may entice gardeners interested in planting their tomatoes in the ground: Plants require less frequent watering. Supports such as stakes and arches can be firmly anchored. It may be easier to set up drip irrigation systems for watering. There’s endless space for roots to spread, which is particularly beneficial for large heirloom varieties. Plants will likely produce larger yields since they have more space to grow.

You should start tomatoes indoors five to eight weeks before planting in the ground, which should be after the last frost. Consult your USDA growing zone to find out when your last frost date is, as tomatoes won't survive those temperatures. Also plant seedlings with enough space between them, and add support structures early. Fresh tomatoes are a juicy end-of-summer delight. With a wide growth range from 60 to 100 days, it can be hard to determine when to plant tomatoes. To answer that question, we spoke with organic vegetable gardening expert Adam Weiss, founder of Pike Lane Gardens. Best Time to Plant Tomatoes You should generally begin to grow tomatoes in the spring to avoid the last frost of the year. It's best to plant tomatoes in two stages, says master gardener Adam Weiss. In the first stage, the seeds are planted indoors. In the second stage, the seedlings are transplanted outdoors. Space the planting stages from five to eight weeks apart. When to Plant Tomatoes Indoors When planting your tomatoes starting from seeds, they should be started indoors five to eight weeks before you plant them in the ground, Weiss says. There is a specific reason why tomato seeds are started indoors, according to Weiss. "Tomatoes are a warm-weather vegetable," he says. "If you planted the seeds in your garden or container in early summer, it would take a considerable amount of time—about five to eight weeks for the seed to germinate and another five to seven weeks for the tomato plant to grow to a seedling." Planting the tomato that way throws off the plant's growing schedule. Weiss says that if you planted in May, you would already be in late July by the time the plant started growing. The plant may still produce tomatoes, but not in abundance. Because your harvest time has been condensed, you'll get a limited harvest quantity of tomatoes. When to Plant Tomatoes Outdoors To pinpoint when you should plant tomatoes, Weiss suggests looking at outside temperatures rather than the calendar. Tomatoes are a summer vegetable, he says, and should be planted in your garden or container once the outdoor temperatures begin to warm. Tomatoes must avoid frost. "Ideally, the soil temperature should be close to 70°F for the seedlings to be planted," Weiss says. That recommendation applies only to planting tomatoes in the ground outdoors, not indoors. "It is much more challenging to plant tomato seeds outdoors directly," says Weiss. "There are several weather variables that could either dry or flood the seed before it even germinates." Frost Dates for Planting Tomatoes Because tomatoes must avoid frost, consult your local United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) hardiness zone to learn the last and first frost dates for each year. A frost date is when air temperatures dip to 32°F (freezing) or below. There are ways to protect plants from frost, such as adding cloches, row covers, cold frames, or container wraps. Yet with tomatoes, the safest way to protect them is to avoid frost conditions altogether. Tips for Planting and Growing Tomatoes Sungolds, cherry tomatoes, beefsteaks, or green zebras? Regardless of the variety of tomato you love planting, Weiss offers these tips for the perfect harvest: Add enough space: Tomatoes need at least 24 inches between each plant to allow for ample sunlight, strong root development, and space. This helps minimize potential disease and pests. Plant fewer tomatoes if you don’t have the space. Plant seedlings: Always plant your tomatoes as seedlings to maximize your harvesting process. Plant seedlings deeply: Place your tomato plant deeper into the ground than other seedlings, at least 6 inches deep. You can bury the plant under the ground until the first set of leaves. This lower stem will develop additional roots, which will improve the health of your plant. Add structure early: Well before planting tomatoes, decide what type of trellis you want: tomato cage, stake, or another supporting structure. The structure must be in place before the tomato grows, as adding it later can damage the plant. Water deeply: Tomato roots grow deep within the ground, so water deeply two to three times a week at the base of each plant. Weiss suggests slowly counting to 20 while watering each tomato plant to measure the correct amount of water.

Whether you have a large or tiny space, you can design a vegetable garden to grow fresh produce. There are many different layouts for vegetable gardens, from vertical gardening to raised beds to square-foot gardens. If you are new to gardening, start with tomatoes, lettuce, peas, and radishes that are easy to grow. Read on to learn how to create a vegetable garden layout and get inspired by layout ideas designed to fit any space. Vegetable Garden Design Basics Just like when you select any real estate, location is the first consideration for a vegetable garden design. Then, you can decide the best size and type of garden for you. Location: Most vegetables require full sun to produce healthy fruit. Find a location where the plants receive full sun (six to eight hours) daily near a water source with good drainage. If irrigation is easy to provide and the plants have a spot with good drainage, you will have healthier plants. Soil Type: Vegetables need plenty of water, but don't like soggy roots. If you plan to plant directly in the ground, consider what type of soil is in your yard and if you will need to amend it before planting. Size: Consider your available outdoor space, the types and numbers of vegetables you want to grow, and the amount of people these plants will be feeding. Type of Garden: If you have a rocky yard or soil that will require hard work to till and amend, consider growing vegetables in raised beds or containers. Raised beds can be large or small and are easier to plant and maintain; container gardening is perfect for small yards, patios, and balconies. How to Create a Vegetable Garden Layout Create a layout based on what you want, your environment, and how soon you start. Physically draw it out on paper or a computer. Consider the planting environment: Review all the care elements your garden has when making decisions about what to plant, such as location, sun exposure, water requirements, and type of soil. Also, consider whether you will have planting beds or a container garden. Starting from seed or nursery seedlings: Your plan will heavily rely on the calendar and whether you are starting from seeds or nursery starts. Nursery starts are more reliable, but more expensive. Plants started from seeds need to get started indoors, often before the last frost or as soon as the soil warms; this vegetable garden will take longer to establish and require more care for a longer period. Choose vegetables you want: Your environment will dictate what you can grow. Ensure you start early enough that your vegetables have enough time to grow before the weather shifts or the first frost is anticipated. Pick plants that you will enjoy eating, and that will thrive in the environment you provide. Draw a layout: Once you have determined the plants you want to grow, draw the layout on paper using graph paper or online gardening tools like garden design software. Also, remember to plot the areas requiring similar watering and fertilizer needs and note some dates and times. You will need to adjust your watering schedule according to the rain. Vegetable Garden Layout Ideas These layout options are perfect for any size yard, big or small. Raised Garden Beds Vegetable Garden Layout Ideas These layout options are perfect for any size yard, big or small. Raised Garden Beds A vertical garden is perfect for small spaces and is usually less expensive to develop than other types of gardens. It is also easy to access and replant as crops mature. The structure can be homemade from landscape fabric or wood or a commercial (usually plastic) growing tower. The garden requires adequate sunlight and good soil for the vegetables. The downside to a vertical garden is that it requires frequent watering, often twice a day. The best vegetables to plant in a vertical garden are compact varieties like salad greens, baby kale, dwarf peas, bush beans, and herbs. These plants have shallow root systems and mature quickly. Four-Square Gardens A four-square garden consists of four raised beds with paths between them. Early English cottage gardens were commonly divided into four rectangular plots by two intersecting paths, coining the term "four-square." The beds can be customized to fit your space and are perfect for growing a variety of vegetables while providing access to each one. They do not have to be very high off the ground; just 6 to 8 inches can be deep enough. Some gardeners add a fruit tree or trellised vine in the center of each raised bed and add vegetables each season. The vegetables can be planted in designs like diamond patterns with herbs spilling along the edges. Gardening in Rows A garden with rows can easily be placed in a small backyard. The ground should be tilled so the soil is loose when you pick it up. The best time to prepare the ground and add supplements to the soil for a row garden is in the fall, but it should be at least three weeks before you plan to plant in the spring. Choose productive plants such as snap beans, tomatoes, radishes, lettuce, turnips, onions, greens, carrots, and peppers for a small row garden. Homestead Gardens If you have a large family or enjoy preserving food by canning, freezing, or drying produce, a homestead or large in-ground garden is ideal. Most homestead gardens are at least one-quarter acre, with many covering up to an acre of land. The rules are the same as row gardening: Provide good soil, select highly productive vegetable cultivars, control weeds, plant in a location with full sun, and provide consistent moisture. If you are planning a large vegetable garden, several tools and systems will make the work easier and more productive. A gas-powered tiller will break up the soil and can even help keep weeds under control after plants are in place. A drip irrigation system will keep plant roots moist but keep water off the leaves and fruit, helping prevent plant diseases and rot. Small In-Ground Gardens In a 10 x 10-foot sunny spot, you can quickly grow plenty of vegetables for a small family. Start with good soil and follow the tips for row gardening. What you plant depends on what you enjoy, whether leafy greens or root crops. You can grow more by planting in the spring and fall. Here's an example of what you can grow during the summer season: Three trellised or caged indeterminate tomato plants or two indeterminate tomatoes and one cucumber plant Four eggplants Five pepper plants 12 bush bean plants Partial Shade Gardens If you don't have a spot with full sun, some vegetables will thrive in partial shade, whether planted in the ground, a raised bed, or a container. Leafy vegetables, such as leaf lettuce, spinach, collards, Swiss chard, and kale, can be successfully grown in areas that receive three to four hours of sun. Radishes, kohlrabi, beets, cabbage, cauliflower, and broccoli can also be grown in partial shade. Choosing Plants for Vegetable Gardens The vegetable seedlings you select to purchase or start from seed will help determine the design of your garden. Begin your planning with what types of vegetables your family will enjoy eating, your climate and length of growing season, and the size of the mature vegetable plants. For instance, growing corn takes up lots of space; most tomato varieties produce large, sprawling plants like melon. Stake some beans and peas to keep the vegetables off the soil and disease-free. Also, do not plant some vegetables next to each other. Planting incompatible vegetables can stunt growth, welcome pests and diseases, and negatively impact flavor. For example, beans and onions should remain separate. A substance in onions can stunt bean growth. Meanwhile, potatoes and tomatoes are part of the same nightshade family and attract the same insects and diseases. If one crop is overtaken by bugs or disease, you can expect the other to be at high risk. Vegetable Companion Planting Just like some plants should not be planted together, it's a good idea to consider companion planting when space is limited to give different vegetables optimum growing conditions. Tomatoes pair well with basil and other herbs, while carrots, cucumbers, and squash work well in a three-way companion partnership. Also, it's important to rotate your crops so bugs and diseases don't establish in the soil or return repeatedly each year. Herbs, like parsley, are also great to plant alongside vegetables since they either trap or repel pests or attract pollinators and other beneficial insects to increase the garden's biodiversity. Also, consider flowers in your vegetable garden since bees and other pollinators help spread pollen, encouraging vegetable plants to grow, reproduce, and produce fruits and vegetables. Pollinators favor zinnias, sweet alyssum, daisies, sunflowers, and cosmos. Vegetable Garden Design Tips When you're ready to design your vegetable garden, these tips will help guarantee a successful harvest no matter which design you choose. Consult your local Cooperative Extension Service office for information on planting schedules and vegetable plant selections for your growing area. Do not overcrowd plants. Although they look as small as seedlings, planting vegetables too close together will lead to disease and lower yields. For a good harvest, start with good soil. The soil should be loose and filled with organic matter. Rotate crops from year to year to help prevent disease and nutrient depletion. Mulch the garden to help reduce weeds that compete for moisture. Control pests and diseases by selecting resistant varieties and learning a beneficial insect from a harmful one.

In general, gardeners recommend planting vegetables in early spring to early summer. For fall harvests, some vegetables can be planted in late summer. You can get a head-start by starting seeds indoors, but starting plants too late will make your yield smaller. When should you plant vegetables? Overall, the best time to plant vegetables is between April and November. This broad growing season is divided into two seasons—spring and fall—for different crops. We spoke to three gardening specialists so you can learn when to plant vegetables. These experts will help you understand the difference between spring and fall plantings, as well as planting periods for specific vegetables. When to Plant Vegetables The best time to plant vegetables for a bountiful crop in most locations is from early spring to early summer, according to Paul Dysinger of Seedtime. The other best time for planting vegetables is fall. Spring Though spring is the best time to plant, each crop is different, Dysinger says. "Each location has different suggested times for that location based on average frost dates or climate, including if the crop is a warm weather or cool weather crop." The best time to plant vegetables is spring, agrees Chrissie Handley of Online Turf. This gives the vegetables enough time to germinate in the soil before the growing season begins. Within spring, the ideal time to plant a crop is early enough for it not to be killed or negatively impacted by a frost, leaving as much growing time as possible in the season, Dysinger says. Planting in early spring "means you’ll have earlier yield and stronger and tastier vegetables because of it," adds Handley. Fall For a fall harvest, cool-season vegetables can be planted in early spring (March to April) and again in late summer (August to September), says Chris Ramos, a gardening specialist with Blain's Farm & Fleet. The ideal time is early enough in the summer or fall for the crop to reach maturity by the time day length shortens and temperatures drop, Dysinger says. "At that time, the plant's growth slows down, and crops will no longer grow very quickly, if at all." "Warm-season crops like tomatoes and cucumbers should be planted after the last frost in mid-May," Ramos says. The crops can continue producing until the first frost in October or November. When to Plant Specific Vegetables Specific vegetables will have differing seasonal requirements to grow to their full bounty. Carrots As a cool season crop, carrot seeds should be planted in either of two periods: spring or mid-summer. For spring plantings in most locations in the U.S., Dysinger says, carrots should be planted from February to May. If you're in southern Florida, California, or Texas, it's different, and he suggests planting anywhere from September to March. For fall plantings in most locations in the U.S., carrots can be planted from July to September. "For a fall crop, carrots can stay in the ground until it freezes," Ramos says. Corn Spring corn can be planted from March to June, according Dysinger. However, in southern U.S. states without risk of frost, corn can be planted from October to March. For late corn harvests, corn can be planted from June to August, says Dysinger. Cucumbers Because cucumbers are sensitive, they are best planted in late spring to early summer, Handley says. "Cucumbers should be planted in late May to early June and harvested throughout summer," Ramos says. Kale Plant kale, from January to April for transplants and from February to May for direct seeding, according Dysinger. If you're located in southern Florida, California, or Texas, you can plant kale from September to March. Kale can be planted from July to September for fall plantings in most locations in the U.S., Dysinger says. Lettuce Lettuce should be planted from March to May for a strong yield, according to Handley. Peas Being a hardy vegetable, peas can be planted outdoors from March to April. If you like, you can start peas in a container to get a head start on growing. Potatoes Plant potatoes from late February to April. However, if you are located in a warm area, plant potatoes in late summer or early winter. That way, the potatoes won't be fighting the hottest time of the year—mid-summer. Radishes "Since they're fast growers, radishes are best planted during the high temperatures of summer, or from June to August, to help get continuous yield," Handley says. Tomatoes Tomatoes should be started indoors in late March or early April, according to Ramos. "Transplant the tomatoes outdoors in mid-May, and harvest them from mid-summer, or July, through early fall, or around September to October." Ramos adds that this late harvest—October—depends on your local frost conditions. Planting Before the Best Time Can you plant vegetables before their opportune planting time? You can always start your vegetables indoors where you can control the temperature and growing conditions to make sure the seeds get off to a good start, Handley says. Once you can see them sprouting, you can then move them outside. "This method is great for sensitive vegetables like tomatoes or peppers," Handley says. "But for hardier vegetables like potatoes—which infamously grow in any soil condition—carrots, or peas, you can plant them outdoors in slightly colder conditions." In later spring to early summer, Handley suggests moving your more sensitive vegetables outdoors when temperatures consistently reach above 50°F. Planting After the Best Time Is it too late to start a garden? You can often still plant vegetables after the ideal time has passed. The vegetable harvest may not be as bountiful, though. Even though spring is generally the time to plant vegetables, remember that fall is a second growing season. Vegetables planted in spring are harvested in summer, while fall vegetables are harvested from October to December. So, even if you miss spring plantings, you only have two or three months to wait until fall vegetables roll around in midsummer.

A member of the beet family, Swiss chard (Beta vulgaris) is one of the easiest leafy greens to grow because it will thrive in just about any soil type and all but the most extreme temperatures. The leaves and colorful stems are edible and can be eaten raw, steamed, or stir-fried. Learn how to grow Swiss chard in your garden. How to Plant Swiss Chard Swiss chard is a fast-growing vegetable that is ready to harvest in around 40 days. Seeds can be directly sown into the garden about 1/2 inch deep and two inches apart in early spring or late summer. If you start seedlings indoors, plant them after the predicted last frost about four inches apart, taking care to minimize root disturbance. The best planting site for Swiss chard receives full sun and has nutrient-rich, well-draining soil with plenty of organic matter. Swiss Chard Care Light Swiss chard needs full sun to partial shade with 6-8 hours of full sun producing the largest, healthiest plants. If you live in a hot climate, some shade from the strong afternoon sun is beneficial to prevent leaf wilt. Soil For the largest and healthiest plants, Swiss chard prefers soil with a high organic content, a neutral pH (6.0-8.0), and good drainage but still moist. Water Like most leafy greens, Swiss chard needs a consistent amount of water to stay healthy—about one to two inches of water per week depending on your climate and rainfall. Mulching around your plants and between the rows can help retain moisture. Temperature and Humidity The plants grow fastest in the cool temperatures of spring and fall, although they continue to produce leaves throughout the summer. Swiss chard is a sturdy plant that can tolerate some heat, humidity, and drought, but will not flourish without adequate moisture. Fertilizer If the garden soil is not nutrient-rich, apply a complete garden fertilizer such as 10-10-10 mixing it into the top three inches of soil before planting. Pollination Swiss chard produces tiny flowers that use wind and insects as pollinators. Pollination is not a concern since this is an annual crop. How to Grow Swiss Chard From Seed Swiss chard can be direct sown in the garden or started indoors and transplanted into the garden. You can sow directly in the garden when the soil temperature is at least 45°F. Start plants indoors in a seed-starting mix about two to three weeks before your last expected frost date. The seeds will germinate in five to seven days. Fill a seeding tray with seed staring mix. Sprinkle the seeds over the moistened mix and cover seeds with about 1/2 inch of soil. Keep the tray moist and in bright, indirect light. Transplant your seedlings from indoors after the danger of frost has passed. How to Grow Swiss Chard in Pots A Swiss chard plant will grow well in a container that holds at least two quarts of soil and is at least eight inches deep. Be sure the pot has good drainage holes and fill it with potting soil. Add your Swiss chard seedling and water deeply. Place the container where it will receive at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. Water often to keep the soil moist. Swiss Chard Varieties 'Bright Lights': A mixed variety, these stems are red, white, orange, pink, violet, and yellow mixed. It matures in 40 days. 'Northern Lights': Brightly colored stalks and midribs in shades of red, pink, yellow, and white. Matures in 42 days. 'Ruby': Ruby-red stems, reddish-green leaves, red veins that mature in 45 days. 'Lucullus": Just 40 days to maturity with dark green leaves and white stalks. Harvesting Swiss Chard The tastiest Swiss chard leaves are young and tender. You can start harvesting at any time for smaller leaves that can be eaten raw in salads. Or, wait until the leaves are around 12 inches long with a sturdier stem for cooking. Remove the largest outer leaves first with a sharp knife or garden shears. Continue harvesting single leaves to encourage new leaves to grow. You can eat both the leaves and the stems. Mature leaves are chopped and cooked in sautés, soups, or stews. Stop harvesting when the plant bolts and goes to flower. The leaves will then be tough and bitter. If you can't eat or share all of the leaves, just add them to your compost pile. Pruning Swiss chard does not require pruning other than removing mature outer leaves to encourage new growth. If a plant is overrun with insects, you may wish to cut it down to the soil line to help get rid of the pests. If the plant roots are healthy, Swiss chard will regrow after cutting. Propagating Swiss chard is commonly started from seeds or nursery seedlings, but it can be propagated from cuttings. Cuttings should be taken from the oldest leaves. Use gardening shears to cut a mature stem from the bottom of the plant. Do not propagate from the plant's center. Trim the bottom of the stem at a 45º angle leaving it 4 to 6 inches long. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone and insert it into a small container with drainage holes filled with moist soilless potting mix. Keep the potting mix moist. Roots should develop in a few weeks. If you gently tug on the stem and feel resistance, the Swiss chard is ready to transplant. Overwintering Swiss chard is cold-tolerant and will continue to grow in the garden through frosts until temperatures drop to the mid-20s Fahrenheit. At that point, since the vegetable is an annual it is best to allow the plants to die and plant again in the spring. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Swiss chard leaves can be affected by Cercospora leaf spot, causing older infected leaves to yellow and die. This fungal disease usually occurs when conditions are warm and humid. To help prevent the spread, you can use a fungicide or remove infected leaves and pull up and discard badly infected plants. Use dense organic mulch around plants and water only at the base of plants, not overhead. Leafminers will feed on the surface of Swiss chard leaves. They are considered minor pests, but heavy infestations can reduce leaf quality and yield. Remove infested leaves and plants to destroy them as a primary control. Root-knot nematodes are small colorless roundworms that infect plant roots. While there is no chemical treatment, if a plant is wilting, pull it up and inspect the roots. If they look "knotty" discard the plant. Rotate Swiss chard to another area of the garden next year and incorporate compost to help suppress root-knot nematode populations.

Autumn is the best time for planting garlic. But if you missed your fall planting window, you can still plant garlic in spring and harvest an impressive crop of garlic by the end of its growing season. Whether you want to grow hardneck garlic, softneck garlic, or garlic scapes, this guide will teach you how to cold treat spring garlic to get more cloves and introduce you to the best types of garlic for spring plantings. Can You Plant Garlic in Spring? Yes, you can definitely plant garlic in the spring. Although most growers plant garlic in fall, you can plant it in spring as long as you chill or “cold treat” seed garlic before planting. Like daffodils and tulips, garlic needs a period of cold exposure to grow; garlic bulbs won’t produce multiple cloves without it. Garlic that’s planted outdoors in autumn is naturally exposed to the cold during winter. But spring plantings of garlic need to be intentionally chilled or they’ll produce one large garlic clove instead of a full head of cloves. How to Cold Treat Garlic There are two main ways to cold treat garlic before spring planting, and the method you choose will depend on where you live and your climate. Plant garlic as early as possible. If you live in an area where the ground thaws in early spring, you can cold treat garlic by planting it outdoors as soon as the soil is workable. If your soil doesn’t thaw until late spring, plant garlic in weather-proof pots instead, and put those cold-hardy cloves outside while it’s still cold. Chill garlic indoors. Alternatively, you can chill garlic inside by placing seed garlic in perforated bags and chilling them in your fridge for a few weeks before planting. During this process, regularly check the cloves for mold and sprouting and immediately plant any cloves that start to grow. When to Plant Garlic in the Spring Hardneck garlic needs to be chilled for 4 to 8 weeks before planting, while softneck garlic only needs about 3 to 4 weeks of cold treatment. This means that you’ll usually need to start chilling garlic by late winter to early spring and plant garlic outside when the soil is workable. Remember, garlic is cold hardy and you don’t need to worry about it freezing. Types of Garlic Both hardneck and softneck garlic are appropriate for spring or fall plantings. However, there are a few types of garlic that are particularly popular in spring. ‘Early Italian’ softneck garlic is known for its long storage life. It produces up to 15 cloves per bulb and is ideal for braiding. ‘Elephant’ garlic is actually more closely related to leeks than garlic, but its jumbo cloves have a mild, garlic-like taste and excellent crunch. ‘Chesnok Red’ hardneck garlic yields big cloves with purple striping and tasty scapes perfect for pesto. How to Plant Garlic Spring garlic can be planted in in-ground gardens, raised beds, or pots that are at least 6 to 8 inches deep. Just make sure your garlic is planted in a location that receives at least 6 to 8 hours of sun per day and follow these planting tips. Prepare soil. Before planting, amend your soil with compost and organic granular fertilizer. In containers, use 3 parts potting soil mixed with 1 part compost. Separate cloves and plant. Divide garlic cloves carefully, leaving the papery skins on, and plant them pointed ends up about 1 to 2 inches deep. Cloves should be spaced about 4 inches apart to get large bulbs or 2 inches apart for smaller, green garlic. Water well. After planting, water well and add 2 to 3 inches of lightweight mulch to keep weeds down. Continue watering when the top inch of soil feels dry and fertilize every 2 to 3 weeks with an organic fertilizer from the time the garlic cloves sprout until a few weeks before harvest. How to Harvest Garlic Whether you plant garlic in spring or fall, garlic bulbs should be ready to harvest around mid- to late summer, or when the garlic leaves have mostly turned brown. However, you can harvest “green garlic” when the plants are about the size of scallions or harvest garlic scapes when they start to curl. When harvesting, follow these best practices: Stop watering garlic plants several days before harvest and harvest bulbs in dry weather if possible. Use a shovel or gardening fork to gently lift the bulbs from the soil and shake away excess dirt. Cure the bulbs in a warm, dry spot with good airflow for 2 to 4 weeks until the skins are papery. Cut the leaves off hardneck garlic or twist softneck garlic leaves into braids and store your harvest in a warm, dry spot.

Growing vegetables can be done very simply with minimal effort, or very elaborately with advance planning and many tasks involved. However you want to approach it, growing your own produce is eminently satisfying, providing fresh food you can harvest directly to your table. Home growing can also save money, especially if you grow from seed. There are many approaches to growing vegetables outside, and a range of methods suitable to different conditions including sunlight exposure, soil, budget, and available space. Consider the amount of time, money, and effort you want to expend. Whether you have acres of land, a tiny balcony, or something in between, we've gathered the best vegetable garden ideas for you to gain inspiration from. Let Vining Plants Climb Growing vining plants in the vegetable garden is a great way to create a dynamic design by incorporating vertical supports. You can use either existing structures (like fences) or create your own (using bamboo stakes or trellises). This can be done with many kinds of plants including beans, peas, cucumbers, summer squash, zucchini, and miniature melons. Lay Gravel Paths Around Raised Beds If you have permanent raised bed structures, creating an easy-maintenance walkway around them makes work easier and also keeps the garden area looking neat. You can use mulch, but this needs replenishing each year and can get muddy when watering. Gravel is a great choice for a clean-looking path with excellent drainage. Gather Eclectic Containers There's no need to build angular beds, dig parallel rows, or buy a dozen matching containers to plant your vegetable garden. As long as you have containers with good drainage that are the appropriate size for what you're growing, they can be any shape or arrangement you want. You can use old furniture or repurpose old tools like wheelbarrows for a creative assortment of planters. Curate a Cute Balcony Garden A balcony space can be made into a vegetable garden depending on how much room you have. Arrange containers around your seating area to create privacy and add some flower plantings for color and fragrance. Use principles of vertical garden design to make the most of your available space. Arrange Rows by Height to Create Shade To make the most of available sunlight, and create some late afternoon shade for tender greens, plant your rows of vegetables strategically. Let your taller sun-loving veggies like tomatoes and corn get plenty of sun. Arrange stakes for beans and other vining plants to create semi-shady spots for lettuces, kale, and herbs. Before planning your design, spend some time observing how the light falls across your garden space during the growing season. Try Low, Curved Fencing Creating low fences for vegetable beds not only helps contain weeds, but it also makes for an attractive design and makes it easy to lay down mulch or straw for paths. Many kinds of materials can work for this, but flexible willow fencing has a great rustic look and is long-lasting. If you have woodland areas on your property, you can also use young tree saplings or fallen limbs to create your own fencing. Create a Simple Square Foot Garden Square foot gardening is a method designed by an urban planner for organizing your planting in a square raised bed. This method is easy to implement and helps you make very efficient use of space. It's a great approach to gardening in a small yard or on a balcony, but also a good way to create a streamlined design for larger vegetable gardens. Opt for a Low-Maintenance Container Garden Containers are the ultimate way to employ flexibility in your vegetable garden. They can be easily arranged and moved, and stored out of the way for winter. They save a lot of time and effort because it's much easier to plant and weed container plants than a conventional vegetable garden. DIY a Chicken Wire Fence If you want to plant a vegetable garden but need to protect it from wildlife, consider a chicken wire enclosure. This inexpensive material can be wrapped around stakes or poles, or used with wood to build a more elaborate fence design. The openings are small enough to keep out most large rodents like woodchucks and rabbits (two of the most destructive pests).+ Fill a Metal Bed With a Medley of Veggies Ready-made raised garden beds are now a very popular way to grow vegetables. Metal beds are considered a great durable option. From simple kits that snap together to ready-made tubs, usually made of galvanized steel, these beds are easy to clean and come at a range of prices. To plant a mix of vegetables in them, plan to have taller plants in the back (like tomatoes supported with stakes) and smaller ones that might spill over the edge in front, like greens, lettuces, and herbs.

Rhubarb is a cool-season garden vegetable that, once established, can produce a crop for up to 15 years, making it a particularly fruitful addition to any garden. Growing rhubarb from crowns is the fastest way to get new plants, but you can grow rhubarb from seeds, too; it will be several years before you can harvest the stalks. Here's how to grow rhubarb from seeds. Can You Grow Rhubarb From Seed? Yes, you can grow rhubarb from seed. The faster way to get rhubarb plants is to grow them from crowns, which can give you a harvest that same year. However, it's easy and cost-effective to start rhubarb plants with seed, you'll just have to wait three years to harvest. Rhubarb is hardy in USDA hardiness zones 3 to 8 and, starting with seeds, is grown either as a perennial or short-lived perennial in zones 1 to 8. Seeds started in zone 9 are grown as an annual crop with a single harvest from March to May. In hardiness zones with long, hot growing seasons, rhubarb is usually grown as an annual by planting new crowns every year. How to Grow Rhubarb From Seed In the right conditions, rhubarb germinates in 7 to 14 days. Seeds should be directly sown or started in pots in early spring in cooler zones, and in late summer or early autumn in warmer zones, depending on climate. How to Plant Rhubarb Seeds Seeds started indoors germinate best between 68°F and 74°F. For direct sowing into the garden, wait until soil temperatures reach between 60°F and 70°F. Soak seeds in warm water for several hours before planting. In the garden, choose a spot that receives six hours of sun exposure daily. Rhubarb needs well-draining soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. In southern climates, provide afternoon shade. Work a good amount of aged compost into the planting bed. Sow seeds 1/2 inch deep and three feet apart in rows five feet apart. Cover with soil and water thoroughly. To germinate in flats use a 50-50 mix of compost and potting soil. Plant one or two seeds per cell, 1/2 inch deep, cover, and water thoroughly. Place flats in a warm location that receives plenty of indirect light. To grow rhubarb in pots, you'll need 10-gallon containers. Plants grow to four feet tall, requiring lots of space. Choose a container with plenty of drainage holes. Use a 50-50 mix of aged compost and potting soil, plant seeds 1/2 inch deep, and water thoroughly. Rhubarb Seedling Care Water the seedlings when the soil gets dry on top. Soggy soil causes dampening off. Harden off for a week to 10 days by gradually exposing flat-grown seedlings to outdoor temperatures and more sunlight before transplanting into the garden. In zones with short growing seasons, try solarizing to raise soil temperature. In hotter climates add a layer of mulch to keep soil cool. Do not fertilize the first year. Compacted soil can be amended with manure or aged compost in subsequent years. Remove flowering stalks throughout the growing season and brown and dried out foliage at the end of the growing season. Harvest Rhubarb Annual rhubarb grown from seed is harvested between March and May. Stalks are usually smaller and seldom develop the pink to red hues of perennial rhubarb. Perennial rhubarb is harvested in May, June, and early July from 3-year-old crowns when stalks reach between 7 and 14 inches tall. Harvest by pulling and twisting the stalk off at the base. Do not cut rhubarb which can damage the crown. Remove leaves which are toxic.1 When to Plant Rhubarb Seeds by Zone When and how to start rhubarb from seeds depends, not just on growing zone, but on frost dates, elevation, microclimate, and other growing conditions. Ideal conditions for growing rhubarb include 500 hours of winter temperatures between 28°F and 40°F. Plants break dormancy above 40°F and begin to die back once temperatures reach 75°F.2 Consider these planting dates a general rule of thumb. USDA zones 1 to 3: Start seeds indoors in flats or pots eight to 10 weeks before final frost, which occurs from early April to May. Transplant when soil temperature reaches 60°F. USDA zone 4: Direct sow two weeks before final frost, from late April to early May, or start seeds in flats eight to 10 weeks before final frost. USDA Zone 5 to 6: Direct sow in the ground two weeks before the final frost in April, or start seeds in flats eight to 10 weeks before the final frost. USDA zone 7: Plant seeds in flats from January to February or directly sow in September and October. May grow as annual or perennial depending on climate. USDA zone 8: Plant seeds in flats from December to January or directly sow in September and October. May grow as annual or perennial depending on climate. USDA zone 9: Plant seeds in flats or direct sow from August to September for transplant into the garden in December. One annual harvest from March to May.

We all know it's important to eat your vegetables, and dark leafy bitter greens are a great addition to any diet. They are a great source of fiber, rich in vitamins K and C, provide iron, calcium, folate, and carotenoids, and act as antioxidants to help remove free radicals from the body. In addition to their nutritional benefits, bitter greens are easy to grow in the winter, and tastier for it; cold temperatures break down starches into simple sugars, producing a milder, sweeter taste more palatable for even the pickiest of eaters. Do Brassicas Actually Get Sweeter After a Frost? University of Tennessee. Learn more about the 5 easiest bitter greens to grow in a patio container or your garden this winter. Spinach Spinach plants (Spinacia oleracea) prefer cooler weather and will produce new tender growth if harvested regularly. In the fall, wait until the soil temperature has dropped below 70°F for good seed germination and sow in a nutrient-rich, loamy soil. You can also purchase seedlings for a quicker harvest. Harvesting of leaves that are between three and six inches long can begin about 37 to 45 days after planting. Start by picking the outer leaves and then harvest the newer leaves as they reach the desired size. "A 3-inch high raised bed with good drainage will reduce the problem of damping off in young seedlings," says Clemson University fruit and vegetable research associate Justin Ballew. Kale Kale (Brassica oleracea) is one of the most popular greens to grow in winter because there are so many varieties. You can grow kale from seed or transplants for an earlier harvest. The best soil temperature for planting kale is 60°F to 65°F and every variety will have a sweeter taste if it is harvested after the first frost. Cabbage Cabbage (Brassica oleracea) is a cool-weather crop that forms a tight center head of the most tender leaves. While it can be grown from seed, cabbage seedling transplants will bring an earlier harvest. Cabbage grows best at around 60°F to 65°F but can tolerate temperatures down to 20°F. Plant spacing will affect how large the head forms so each plant should be at least 12 inches apart. Cabbage plants prefer evenly moist, well-draining soil throughout their growing time. Cabbage requires about 70 days to mature from the time of planting. Once the heads are firm to the touch, they are ready to be harvested. Collards Collards (Brassica oleracea var. viridis) are considered a delicacy in the southern U.S. when at their best in the winter after the first frost. The new, tender collard leaves can be eaten raw but larger leaves must have the center stem removed and then cooked for the best flavor. Collard plants grow with a center stalk and the leaves should be harvested from the bottom of the plant. Pick only a few leaves from each plant so the plant will continue to grow upward producing more leaves. Ballew says that collard microgreens will be ready to harvest 10 to 15 days after seeding with the plant reaching full maturity in 60 to 80 days depending on the cultivar. Mustard Mustard greens (Brassica juncea) are grown for their spicy leaves and seeds. Some varieties are grown for their seeds used to flavor brown mustard. If you're looking for bitter greens, these cultivars are exceptionally tender and flavorful: ‘Carolina Broadleaf’: tender, lightly ruffled, light green leaves ‘Red Giant’: large, maroon-tinged leaves ‘Savannah’: a milder, hybrid mustard with smooth, rounded leaves Mustards reach maturity between 25 to 50 days from sowing, depending on the cultivar. Regular harvesting will help the plants continue to produce tender leaves. As warmer temperatures arrive, the plants will bolt and should be removed from the garden. Why Grow Bitter Greens in Winter? Bitter greens are a cool-season crop that should be planted outdoors in very early spring or late autumn. These plants can withstand freezing temperatures, and will not thrive in the heat and high humidity of summer. Even if you can keep the plants alive during the summer, they will not be as tasty as those grown in winter. Periods of cold temperatures break down the starches in the leaves into simple sugars producing a milder, sweeter taste.2 If you have enjoyed the rewards of gardening during the summer, planting bitter greens in the fall will provide nutritious, fresh produce throughout the winter.

Prized for their edible stems, or spears, asparagus plants are one of the few vegetables that grow perennially, and they're harvested in spring—long before other crops have even sprouted. But while most gardeners grow green, white, or purple asparagus from year-old transplants or “crowns,” you can save money and make your garden more self-sufficient by growing asparagus from seed instead. In this guide, we’ll walk you through the basics of when and how to plant asparagus seeds and teach you how to transplant, care for, and harvest your own asparagus. When and Where to Plant Asparagus Seeds The main difference between growing asparagus from seeds versus asparagus crowns is that you’ll need to wait an extra year to harvest asparagus grown from seed. But the good news is that asparagus seeds are easy to grow, and they can be started indoors or directly in the garden. Asparagus seeds are usually started inside pots or trays in early spring—about 10 to 12 weeks before the last frost. However, asparagus seeds can also be directly sown in in-ground or raised bed gardens after the final frost of spring. How to Plant Asparagus Seeds Many growers keep asparagus plants in nursery beds for the first year of growth to avoid weed competition and provide young plants with the right conditions for sturdy root development. Whether you’re planning to start asparagus seeds indoors or out, here's how to create a simple nursery bed and sow asparagus seeds. Preparing the Nursery Bed To start, choose a growing location that receives at least seven hours of direct sun daily and follow these tips to create a nursery bed. Loosen the soil to a depth of 10 to 12 inches and remove any rocks and weeds. Test the soil and add soil amendments (if needed). Asparagus grows best in rich, well-draining soil with a pH between 6.5 and 7.0. Before planting asparagus seeds or transplants, mix several inches of compost or aged manure into the top few inches of soil. Indoor Sowing Planting asparagus seeds indoors in early spring takes a bit more time, but it gives you more control over the growing conditions and health of young seedlings. Soak the seeds in water for a few hours before planting. While the seeds are soaking, fill seed starting trays or pots with pre-moistened seed starting mix. Sow one to two asparagus seeds per pot or seedling cell, cover the seeds with ½-inch of seed starting mix, and add a humidity dome. Place the seedlings under a grow light and on top of the seedling heating mat and set to 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Water regularly until the seeds sprout. This can take a few weeks, so be patient! Once the seedlings germinate, remove the humidity dome and heating mat. Continue to water regularly to keep the soil moist, but not soggy. When the seedlings are a few inches tall, leave one seedling per pot or seedling cell and thin out the rest. Transplant indoor seedlings outside when they’re a few inches tall and the danger of frost has past. Outdoor Sowing For a more hands-off approach, plant asparagus seeds outdoors in prepared nursery beds after the last spring frost. Plant seeds ½-inch deep, and 2 to 3 inches apart, in rows spaced approximately 1 foot from each other. If possible, soak the asparagus seeds in water before planting to speed up germination. Water often to keep the soil moist and weed regularly to prevent weed competition. Asparagus seeds should germinate in a few weeks. Once the seedlings have sprouted and are a few inches tall, spread a light layer of straw mulch around the soil line to block out weeds. Transplanting Seeds Seedlings started outdoors won’t need to be transplanted during their first year of growth. However, indoor seedlings should be transplanted outside after the last frost date of spring. Harden the seedlings off over one to two weeks by moving the seedlings outdoors during the day and indoors at night. Gradually increase the amount of time the seedlings are outside and the amount of sun they’re exposed to until the plants can handle full sun. Transplant the asparagus seedlings into rows spaced about 1 foot apart in a prepared nursery bed. Space each plant about 1 foot from its neighbor and bury the seedlings deep enough to cover their roots. Water well and apply a light layer of straw mulch. How to Care for Asparagus After growing for one year in the nursery bed, asparagus crowns can be transplanted into your main garden in early spring. Before planting, loosen the soil and add amendments, then plant the year-old asparagus crowns in 6-inch deep trenches spaced 2 to 3 feet apart. Fan the plants' roots out, space individual plants 2 feet from each other, cover the roots with 2 inches of soil and follow these quick-care tips to maintain a healthy asparagus crop. Mounding. Every few weeks, add more soil over the asparagus crowns until the crowns are covered with a small mound of earth. In winter, layer 4 to 6 inches of straw mulch over the roots for insulation. Watering. Provide asparagus plants with about 1 inch of water per week. Fertilizing. Fertilize asparagus once or twice a year in early spring, and after harvest, with a well-balanced fertilizer or compost. Weeding. Asparagus doesn’t compete well with weeds and beds need regular weeding. Pruning. Don’t cut the fern-like leaves from asparagus plants until they die back in the fall. Those leaves fuel next year’s growth of asparagus. Harvesting Asparagus If you start asparagus plants from seed, you’ll need to wait at least three years to harvest edible spears. Asparagus season begins in spring and stretches until the end of June, but you should only harvest spears for two to three weeks during the first harvest season. Harvest spears when they’re as wide as your finger and about 6 to 8 inches long, and use a sharp knife to cut the spears off at the soil line to limit plant damage.

Edamame, Glycine max, is an edible soybean originating in Japan. It's something of a niche market in the U.S. but gaining popularity as a high protein, low fat snack food for the home garden. In addition to its nutritional value, edamame is ideal for crop rotation and well-suited to organic practices. For home use, edamame is most often harvested young once the pods fill out with two to three beans. Pods are boiled whole then the sweet, nutty beans are removed and eaten much like boiled peanuts. They can be used in place of beans in many recipes including soups, stews, and dips such as hummus. If you can grow green beans in your home garden, you can grow edamame. Here's how. When to Plant Edamame Edamame is a warm-season crop directly sown after the final frost. Soil temperatures should reach 55°F and air temperatures remain at 60°F or higher. Cold, wet soil causes seeds to rot. Plants are sensitive to day length which determines how much time is needed from planting to harvest. Depending on the variety beans may be ready for picking from 65 to 110 days. Seed packets should give information about when to plant for your U.S. hardiness zone and days to harvest. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! How to Plant Edamame Choose an area that receives at least six hours of sun daily. Work in aged compost two to four weeks before planting, then sow seeds 2 to 4 inches apart in rows 2 feet apart. Set them 1/2 - to 1-inch deep and cover with soil. Plants emerge in one to two weeks. When they reach 4 inches tall, thin the crop to 6 inches between plants. Aim to provide an inch of water weekly in lieu of rainfall. Edamame are somewhat drought tolerant but insufficient water causes lower yields. Moisture is most important during flowering and when beans are forming and maturing. Mulch with hay, leaves, or compost to retain soil moisture and control weeds. Like most legumes, edamame are nitrogen fixers which means they don't need additional fertilizer as long as the soil is nutrient-rich. They have a growth habitat similar to bush beans, reaching 1 to 3 feet tall, and generally don't require staking. Types of Edamame Agate: An heirloom variety introduced to the U.S. in the 1920's. Small cream to olive green beans with dark saddles ready to harvest in 65 days. High-yielding and adapted to short growing seasons. Envy: Most popular with home gardeners this variety matures in 75 to 85 days with two to three light green beans in each pod. Midori Giant: Traditional variety used in oriental recipes. Two to three green beans in large pods with high yields. Ready to harvest in 70 days. Chiba Green: Adapted to all U.S. growing zones, pods mature in 82 days with an average of three large, flavorful green beans per pod. Harvesting Edamame Pods on each plant mature simultaneously making harvesting a quick and efficient job. For fresh eating, harvest before the pods and leaves start to turn yellow. Look for plump pods with beans fully filled out to where they almost touch each other inside the pod. Snap them off or use a clipper to remove pods. Avoid pulling them from the plant. Harvest in the morning when beans retain the highest amount of water for the best flavor. You can remove pods individually or pull up the entire plant for harvesting. Most home gardeners harvest edamame for fresh eating, but they can also be harvested for seeds or dry beans. Wait until plants lose their leaves and pods turn yellow. How to Store Edamame Store fresh edamame in the refrigerator for up to one week. Keep them in a perforated bag in the crisper drawer. Edamame can be frozen for up to 12 months. Rinse the pods in cool water then blanch them in boiling water for three minutes. Drain and plunge them into an ice water bath for two minutes. Drain a second time and allow the pods to dry on paper towels. Pack into air-tight freezer bags. For dry beans or seeds, remove them from the dried pods. Pack beans into an air-tight jar and keep in a cool, dark location. Alternatively, you can hang dried plants upside down in a dry location with good air circulation and harvest the pods as needed. Edamame Pests and Diseases Insect pests to watch for include Mexican bean beetles, root-knot nematodes, stink bugs, and white flies. Most can be discouraged by rotating crops and using row covers. Avoid planting edamame in the same location where beans were grown the previous year. Hand-pick pests or spray your crop with insecticidal soap. To discourage root-knot nematodes, rotate crops, remove all plant debris at the end of the season, and choose resistant varieties. White mold and powdery mildew are fungal infections that usually occur during periods of high humidity. Leave adequate spacing between plants for good air circulation and water at ground level in the morning to avoid wetting foliage. Remove and dispose of plants infected with white mold.

Lettuces are cool weather crops usually planted in early spring. Many varieties are also successful in autumn and early winter gardens and, with a bit of protection, provide fresh greens for your table nearly all year long, When to Plant Fall Lettuce To grow fully mature lettuces for late autumn and winter harvests, sow seeds directly into the garden ten to 12 weeks before the first frost. Crops can be harvested early as baby lettuce but need protection to reach mature growth when temperatures drop below 32°F. If you want to grow only baby lettuces, sow seeds four to five weeks before final frost. Lettuce seed can also be started indoors for transplant into the garden or sown directly into a cold frame, high tunnel, or greenhouse. If choosing one of these methods, plant seeds six to seven weeks before the first frost. How to Grow Lettuce in the Fall Many types of lettuces mature quickly, making them ready to harvest in as few as 30 days. Others may require up to 100 days. For successful autumn and early winter harvests keep in mind the following key factors. Seeds will not germinate at temperatures below 32°F. and are forced into dormancy above 70°F. This makes late summer and early autumn planting tricky in climates with hot, dry, late-season weather. Keep the seedbed moist until germination occurs. A light shade cover can aid germination by reducing heat. In the end, you may have better success starting seedlings indoors and transplanting them into the garden. Although lettuce grows best at 60°F to 65 °F, day length determines growth rate. During short winter days, development slows until daylight hours lengthen. As long as plants are protected from freezing temperatures, they'll resume growing. Methods are not much different than planting in early spring. Baby lettuces are directly sown and not grown for transplant. Sow seeds about 1 inch apart and 1/4 inch deep, cover lightly with soil and keep moist. For mature lettuces, decide which method to use, either starting seed indoors for transplanting out or sowing seed directly into the garden, or into a season extender like a cold frame. How to Direct Sow Late Lettuce These steps are the same for outdoor beds, high tunnels, and cold frames. Choose a spot that receives five to six hours of sunlight daily. Prepare a garden bed 6 to 8 inches deep, working in well-aged compost. Scatter seeds or plant them 1/4 inch deep and 6 to 8 inches apart in rows 12 inches apart. Cover lightly with soil. Space seed for crisphead varieties 12 inches apart. Water and keep soil moist until germination occurs, usually in seven to 14 days. Once several sets of leaves appear, you have the option to add fertilizer. Use an organic product such as bloodmeal or kelp or side dress with a granular NPK 5-10-10 and water in. Continue watering when the top inch of soil gets dry. Protect exposed plants from freezing air temperatures by installing a season extender such as a freeze cloth or a hoop tunnel. Grow Lettuce Transplants For Autumn and Winter Harvest Fill a seed starting tray with a slightly dampened, loose, well-draining mix with little to no fertilizer. A potting mix formulated for vegetables is a good choice. Sow one or two seeds per cell or 6 to 8 inches apart in a flat. Plant seeds 1/4 inch deep and cover lightly with potting mix. You can also scatter sow seeds and thin plants once they sprout. Water and keep soil consistently moist but not soggy until germination in seven to 14 days. When seedlings are 2 to 3 inches tall with several sets of true leaves, transplant them into the garden bed. Fertilize with bloodmeal, fish emulsion, or side dress with a granular NPK 5-10-10 and water in. When temperatures dip below freezing protect plants with freeze cloth or similar cover. Best Types of Lettuce For Fall Growing There are essentially four main types of lettuce with various cultivars suited for autumn and winter crops. Romaine Lettuce Romaine lettuces feature tall, elongated leaves with sturdy center ribs. Outer leaves are dark green with lighter inner leaves that have crisp texture and earthy to slightly bitter flavor. Romaine is ready to harvest in about 65 days. Butterhead Lettuce Butterhead lettuces feature large, buttery soft leaves formed in loose heads. They have a tender texture and mild, sweet flavor. Butterhead lettuces mature in 50 to 60 days. Looseleaf Lettuces Looseleaf lettuces are sometimes described as 'cut and come again.' Leaves grow from a central stem and may be green or red with ruffled tops and crisp stems. The texture is crunchy with a mild, sweet flavor. Leaves are harvested individually as they mature starting in four to six weeks. Crisphead Lettuces Crisphead lettuces form tight, rounded heads of light green, overlapping leaves. The texture is crunchy with a neutral, mild, slightly sweet flavor. This type requires the longest growing time of up to 100 days to reach harvest maturity. Crisphead varieties are developed for greater heat rather than cold tolerance and most varieties can be grown as winter crops with protection. How to Protect Lettuce in Early Winter Lettuces with sturdier, compact leaves like romaine and crisphead are better suited to withstand frost which improves the flavor of some varieties. All lettuce leaves, though, turn soggy and lose shape when exposed to freezing temperatures. Season extenders like cold frames, greenhouses, and high tunnels are ideal places to grow winter lettuce crops. For lettuces grown in the garden, keep thermal or freeze blankets handy along with a set of hoops or other supports. Avoid placing covers directly on top of plants which can trap moisture and damage leaves. In areas with extended freezes, leave covers in place or remove them during daytime hours when air temperatures rise above 32°F.