Mint plants (Mentha spp.) are known for growing quickly and abundantly. While mint is beloved for its aromatic leaves, which can be used for cooking, aromatherapy, soaps, and more, the popular and fragrant perennial herb is vigorous and notoriously invasive if not planted and cared for properly. When planted directly in the ground, mint can spread easily via underground rhizomes. Once it's planted, mint can be very difficult to get rid of entirely. The best way to control mint's spread and keep it growing healthy is to grow it in a container and practice preventative maintenance such as selective harvesting and pruning. If you're growing mint in your garden, it's important to keep the plants in check by pruning and harvesting them regularly. Follow the tips below to learn how and when to harvest mint for peak flavor and health. When to Harvest Mint You can harvest mint leaves at any point of the plant's life, but the optimal time is once the mint plant has multiple stems that are at least 6 to 8 inches long. If you are growing a mint plant from seed, this timing should be about two months after sowing, and even less time if you planted a more developed seedling that you purchased from a plant nursery or farmers' market. The leaves and stems of a mint plant should be harvested before the plant goes to flower, usually right before summer. This is when the minty flavor will be at its peak; the leaves tend to take on a bitter flavor once the plant begins to flower. Your mint harvest will also be more aromatic and flavorful if you pick the mint stems and leaves in the morning, before the dew has a change to evaporate in the summer sun. As a rule of thumb, do not harvest more than a third of the mint plant at a time. Removing too much can significantly weaken the plant and impact its future growth. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Why Mint Needs to Be Cut If left to its own devices, mint will easily and quickly take over your yard or garden (and even your neighbor's yard and garden). When you cut back mint, it can help prevent this rapid spread. Pruning mint regularly also helps keep a mint plant healthy—encouraging it to grow full and bushy—and prevent it from flowering and going to seed. When growing mint in your garden, it's important to cut vertical shoots as well as horizontally growing stolons, also known as a runner. If you don't cut both parts of the mint plant, it will quickly crowd out other plants in your garden bed. Once a mint plant starts to bolt, the plant's energy starts going towards producing blooms and seeds. Cutting the flowers off can prevent the plant from shifting into reproductive mode, instead encouraging more leaf growth and reducing the risk of it spreading to areas where it's unwanted. How to Harvest Mint Once established, mint plants can be harvested at any time. To start, find a pair of sharp pruning shears or scissors. Wipe them down with an alcohol wipe to ensure they are clean and free of disease. Using sharp, clean pruning shears, snip a mint stem right above a leaf node. Always cut off whole stems rather than individual leaves, as this will encourage a bushier growth habit. Rinse and dry the mint. Wrap it in a damp paper towel and store in a plastic bag in the fridge. To air-dry your harvested mint, tie the mint sprigs and hang upside down to dry in a cool, dry place. Tip The methods you use to harvest mint plants matters. To encourage full, bushy growth in your mint plant, make sure you are cutting back the stems just above where two leaves join the stem, called a node. If you just pluck away one mint leaf at a time, this will weaken the plant. By cutting above a node, you will encourage new shoots to grow faster and fuller. How to Prune Mint for Flowering Generally, mint plants are grown for their aromatic leaves. However, if you want to encourage your mint plant to flower, sunlight is key, as it stimulates mint flowering. To get mint plants to flower, you want to provide the plant with their desired conditions. In addition to sunlight, mint prefers temperatures between 65°F–70°F and soil that is kept moist. If you care for your mint plant properly, it will continue to produce new shoots and flowers through autumn. Most mint varieties have two blooming periods: early summer and late summer. The first flowering period typically takes place from June to July. If you cut back those flowers, the plant will undergo a second flowering period from August to September.

Covering a tree's roots above ground can limit the tree's access to oxygen and moisture which helps them grow and stay healthy. Avoid cutting, trimming, or removing tree roots because it can make the tree woody and unstable, especially during storms. To discourage root growth at the surface level, try using mulch to cover the roots, loosen compacted soil, or hire a pro arborist. Despite their seemingly breezy maintenance requirements, trees can be tricky to care for especially if not done properly—this also extends to their root systems. Is it better, for instance, to cover tree roots or leave them alone? To gather these answers and more, we reached out to an expert tree arborist to share their best insights. Meet the Expert Eric North is a certified arborist and urban forestry program manager at the Arbor Day Foundation, the world’s largest tree-planting nonprofit planting trees. Should You Cover Your Tree Roots Above Ground? No, you should not cover the tree’s roots. according to Eric North, a certified arborist and urban forestry program manager at the Arbor Day Foundation. “Oxygen and moisture are typically most available to tree roots in the open pore spaces of the upper soil, often in the upper 18 to 24 inches,” he explains. So, the deeper you go, the more compact the soil gets, which means less space for the oxygen and moisture tree roots need. If you cover the tree’s roots, the tree will only work harder to reach closer to the soil’s surface to reach water and nutrients. All the more reason not to cover your tree’s roots. “The exception to this is when soil erosion or any other disruption to the soil environment exposes fine roots that had been below the soil surface,” North explains. In cases such as these, you can add some soil to cover any newly exposed roots. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Don’t Cut Your Tree Roots But above all, don’t trim your tree’s roots. Avoid trimming, cutting, or removing tree roots when the tree is young or old. “As roots continue to age, they become woody and their primary role changes to providing energy storage and stability for the tree,” North says. So, damaging even old roots can kill the tree’s roots, result in a reduction in the tree’s growth, or lead to unstable trees that will need to be straightened or else may fall down during storms. What to Do Instead It’s normal for roots to want to be near the soil’s surface. North explains how when roots grow near or at the soil surface, it’s typically because that’s where the most ideal conditions exist. However, there are several things you can still do to discourage root growth at the surface level. Correct the soil conditions at the time of planting. Loosen compacted soil and add in some new organic matter (such as compost). Hire a certified professional arborist to improve compacted soils and encourage root growth below the soil surface. Professional arborists have tools that use pressurized air to blow away and loosen soil without minimal damage to existing roots. Cover the tree roots with mulch. This will help the soil retain moisture while remaining covered by the mulch. Are Exposed Roots a Sign of Good or Poor Tree Health? Trees have adapted to a wide range of conditions, and their roots spread out to help them find the most nutrients. Above-ground roots are not necessarily indicators of tree health, North says. However, they can be a reasonable indicator of soil conditions. “Surface roots frequently form when soils are heavily compacted or there is a high-water table,” North says. Both situations can impact your tree’s ability to gather water and nutrients. Are Some Trees More Prone to Above Soil Roots? Yes, some tree species are genetically prone to producing shallow roots, North says. This can include such species and varieties as Ficus, mountain spruces, and trees adapted to areas prone to flooding. “In this latter case, the shallow roots nature is likely an evolutionary adaptation to manage limited resources,” he says.

The butterfly pea plant, Clitoria ternatea, is a tropical, perennial, and climbing vine that blooms in the summer with flowers noted for producing natural dyes. Although they're mostly grown for their vivid blue, purple, and white flowers, their plants also produce long flat pods containing six to ten peas, which are edible when harvested young. Vines grow to ten feet in length but have a twining habit that keeps plants to a tidy three feet tall. Leaves are medium green and broader at the base tapering to a point. Native to Indonesia, this is a short-lived perennial that grows in USDA zones 9 to 11. It is cultivated as an annual in northern zones or grown in pots and overwintered indoors as a biennial. The blue flowers are edible and are a natural food coloring in Asian cuisine. They are added to beverages and are a popular ingredient in "Butterfly Pea Tea."1 Butterfly pea plant is widely grown as an ornamental and reclamation plant that fixes nitrogen in soil. How to Plant Butterfly Pea The butterfly pea is a hardy plant that requires warm growing conditions with plenty of sun. Easily grown from seed, both plants, and seeds are offered by specialty growers. When to Plant Start seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the final frost in your growing zone, or directly sow the seed in the garden in early spring in zones 9 and higher. Purchased plants and seedlings can be planted in the garden when average air and soil temperatures reach 60 degrees F. Selecting a Planting Site Choose a location that receives 6 to 10 hours of bright direct sunlight daily. Making sure the soil is well-draining is essential. Spacing, Depth, and Support Direct sow seeds about 1 inch deep and 3 to 4 inches apart. Plant seedlings 6 to 10 inches apart and at the same level as in their original pot. To grow butterfly pea plants in pots, choose a container 6 inches deep and 12 to 14 inches in diameter. Sow seeds 1 inch deep and 2 inches apart. Thin to one or two per container once they reach 6 inches tall. Provide a support structure such as a trellis or grow them on a fence or wall. Butterfly Pea Plant Care Light Butterfly pea plants need lots of bright, direct sunlight for 6 to 10 hours daily. Avoid locations where the overhead canopy or neighboring plants cast shade. Soil Tolerant of soil type, this twining vine grows best in fertile, slightly sandy, and well-draining soils. Plants require a balanced pH of 6.0 to 8.0. Water Butterfly pea seedlings benefit from 1 inch of water per week. Once established, they are drought tolerant and need supplemental irrigation only in prevailing hot, dry conditions. Soil level irrigation is best for avoiding fungal infections like powdery mildew that can develop on wet leaves. Temperature and Humidity This is a tropical plant that prefers moist air and temperatures between 70 and 100 degrees F. Hardy only in U.S. zones 9 through 11, the butterfly pea plant does not survive frost and is grown as an annual or potted plant where average temperatures fall below 60 degrees F. Indoor plants benefit from frequent misting to raise the humidity level. Fertilizer Add well-aged manure, compost, or balanced NPK fertilizer at when planting. NPK liquid fertilizer higher in phosphorous and potassium boosts bloom for perennial plants when applied twice annually after pruning. Pollination Butterfly pea plants are perfect which means they have both male and female parts and are considered self-pollinating. The flower, however, requires assistance from bees to complete pollination and fertilization for the plant to produce peas. Potted plants grown indoors year-round will not produce fruit unless hand pollinated. Variety vs. Variety Clitoria mariana, also called Butterfly Pea, is an uncommon wildflower found in the southern U.S. which tends to sprawl along the ground. The flower color is violet-blue to lavender with purple centers rather than yellow as in Clitoria ternatea. All parts of both plants are edible however Clitoria mariana is considered a forage plant and not widely consumed. Harvesting Butterfly Pea Butterfly pea plants are grown for their flowers rather than the edible peas. The flowers open for only a day or two but can be harvested fresh, wilted, or dried. The greatest amount of pigment is extracted from fresh flowers, resulting in richer color in food and beverages. Slightly wilted flowers should be left to dry completely and dried flowers produce the best color when combined with hot water.2 To harvest peas, remove flowers to activate the growth of the pod. Harvest pods before peas are too large which causes them to become tough and flavorless. To harvest seeds, wait until pods dry and turn brown. How to Grow Butterfly Pea in Pots Pea plants tend to grow easily in containers as long as the soil drains well and support is included. Seeds can be started in flats in early spring and transplanted or sown directly into individual pots at least 6 inches deep and 12 inches in diameter. Butterfly pea plants are heat and drought-tolerant so keeping pots outdoors in summer and overwintering indoors is a viable option. Plants grow in clay, ceramic, and plastic pots. Fill the container with potting soil. Butterfly pea plants are not picky about soil type but adding compost to make up 1/4 of the mix provides nutrition for young plants. Starting with your own or a purchased seedling, plant it in the center of the pot at the same level as in the original container. Fill in around the roots and add a trellis or stake. Water thoroughly until water drains from the pot bottom. Place in a location that receives at least 6 hours of bright sunlight daily. Move the plant outdoors into the full sun when temperatures average 65 degrees F. daily. Once the plant is established and growing, allow the soil surface to dry before watering. When average daily temperatures drop below 60 degrees F. move the plant indoors to a sunny window. Prune regularly and often by cutting back the tips of vines. Pruning can be done any time of year to avoid a thin, leggy appearance. Pruning Pruning is needed to keep plants compact and bushy. Prune your butterfly pea plant often by removing growing tips. Deadheading flowers increases flower production. If you want to save seeds for propagation or harvest edible peas for cooking, leave flowers on the vine. Harvest edible peas while still small or remove pods when they become brown and dry. Propagating Butterfly Pea Butterfly pea plant grows easily from cuttings taken from mature plants. Gather a snipper, a pot at least 6 inches deep and 12 inches wide, and potting soil. Take the cutting from an older, woodier portion of the vine. Pruned growing tips do not root well. Choose a section 3 to 5 inches long with a bud at the top. Remove lower leaves and place the cutting in a glass of water or dip the bottom in rooting hormone and plant in potting soil. Placed in water or soil, cutting produces roots in two to three weeks, followed quickly by flowers that open as early as three weeks once the plant is established. Keep soil moist and place potted seedlings in a warm, moist location. The morning sun is best with some afternoon shade to allow young plants to acclimate. How to Grow Butterfly Pea From Seed If you are growing butterfly pea plants in pots, allowing seed production is a good way to keep this plant going. Seeds can also be purchased at some greenhouses, online, and from specialty growers. To propagate from seed, you need a sharp knife, flats, or containers 6 inches deep and 12 inches wide, and potting medium. Butterfly pea seeds are not reliable germinators. Choose mature, aged seeds that are hard, and dark brown. To check for viability, pour seeds into a bowl of water. Discard seeds that don't float. Use the sharp knife to nick each seed to allow for better water absorption. Soak seeds in water for 24 hours. Fill the flat or pot with a light potting mix made up of 25 percent compost. Plant seeds 1 inch deep. In pots, space them 4 to 6 inches apart. Seeds sown in flats can be thinned or transplanted into pots or the garden once seedlings have three sets of leaves. Do not plant outdoors until average daily temperatures reach 60 degrees F. Keep seedlings moist. Germination is most successful in temperatures above 80 degrees F. Germination occurs from six days up to three weeks. Nicking and soaking seeds improve the time to germination. Vines grow rapidly, however average time for plants to flower is 90 days. Potting and Repotting Butterfly Pea Repotting annually is recommended to replenish soil nutrients. Plants are also potted up into containers 2 to 3 inches larger once they've doubled in size. Turn the plant's pot on its side, grasp the base of the plant, and gently work it loose from the pot. Add fresh potting material, choosing a larger pot when necessary. Replant and water. Overwintering Gardeners north of zone 9, need to bring potted plants indoors when average daily temperatures drop below 60 degrees F. Place the pot in a location that receives at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Close to a south-facing window works well. Indoor temperatures need to stay consistently above 60 degrees F., so avoid drafty spots. Add a humidifier or mist the plant frequently to mimic moist, tropical conditions. Allow the soil surface to dry between waterings and continue to prune as needed. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Butterfly pea is not vulnerable to many diseases or pests. Spider mites and aphids can be a problem but can be knocked down with a strong spray of water. Treat infestations with horticultural oil. Overwatering can lead to bacterial soft rot, mold, and mildew.

Cinnamon basil combines the flavor of traditional basil with that of sweet cinnamon, making it a perfectly unique addition to any herb garden. This fast-growing type of basil has distinctive violet central stems with long, deep green leaves. If left unpruned, cinnamon basil turns into an attractive flowering plant with lavender-pink blooms. Cinnamon basil grows up to 3 feet tall, but it can be kept much smaller for containers and limited space. In addition to being an attractive edible ornamental, its pest-repellant properties also make it an excellent companion plant for several popular garden crops, including tomatoes. How to Plant Cinnamon Basil When to Plant Whether you plant nursery-grown basil or start your own plants from seed outdoors, you’ll need to wait until there is no further danger of frost, when temperatures are consistently above 70 degrees during the day and above 50 degrees at night. To get a head start on the growing season, start the seeds indoors about one month before your last average frost date. For a constant supply of cinnamon basil, reseed it every four to six weeks. Selecting a Planting Site Find a location with full sun most of the day and fertile, well-drained soil. Like with all garden crops, following crop rotation rules is key for healthy plants. Don’t plant basil in the same spot where you have grown basil or other members of the mint family (lavender, sage, rosemary, thyme, oregano, mint) in the past two or three years. Spacing, Depth, and Support Space the plants 8 to 12 inches apart. Cinnamon basil has a strong central stem and does not require support. However, it does not compete well with weeds. Mulching around the plant helps to suppress weeds and preserves soil moisture. Cinnamon Basil Plant Care Light Basil needs plenty of sunshine, between 8 and 12 hours of sunlight every day. Soil The soil should be moist, moderately rich, and well-draining, ranging from mildly acidic to neutral pH. If the soil is poor, amend it with organic matter before planting. Water Unlike herbs with thick leaves, basil needs moisture; it is not drought-tolerant and prone to damage under heat stress. In the absence of regular rainfall, water it deeply every week, more often during hot summer weather. Temperature and Humidity Cinnamon basil is a warm-weather plant that reaches its peak in the summer. It does not take a frost to make it unusable—in cool weather, the leaves turn black. High humidity becomes an issue if the plants are crowded and there is not sufficient airflow. Fertilizer Although basil is harvested frequently, it needs only a moderate amount of fertilizer. For plants in the garden, applying a 5-10-5 once or twice during the growing season is sufficient. For potted plants, use a liquid fertilizer, diluted to half-strength, every four to six weeks. Too much fertilizer leads to rapid plant growth and diminished foliage flavor. Cinnamon Basil vs. Thai Basil What is commonly known as Thai basil in North America is sometimes also called cinnamon basil, leading to people wondering whether they are the same thing. They are not—cinnamon basil Ocimum basilicum ‘Cinnamon’ and Thai basil (O. basilicum var. thyrsiflora) are two different basil varieties. Cinnamon basil has a distinctive cinnamon spice taste; it has a fresh, earthy aroma with no traces of anise. Thai basil, on the other hand, has a distinctive taste of black licorice or sweet anise and no hints of cinnamon. The leaves are different, too. Cinnamon basil has narrower, more delicate, more serrated, and shinier leaves than Thai basil. Companion Plants for Cinnamon Basil Cinnamon basil makes an excellent companion plant for many garden crops because it deters pests such as aphids, thrips, tomato hornworms, and different flies, such as carrot flies and whiteflies.1 And it attracts beneficial pollinating insects, including bees and butterflies. Good companions for basil include tomatoes, peppers, carrots, beets, garlic, lettuce, and asparagus. Other herbs, such as cilantro, dill, and marjoram, are equally good neighbors. When planting basil next to garden crops, take into consideration the mature size of the neighboring plant and how it affects sun exposure. For example, a basil plant that is shaded by a tall tomato plant will do poorly. Harvesting Cinnamon Basil Cinnamon basil takes about 65 days from seeding to maturity, but you can start harvesting lightly after plants have become established. Using a sharp knife or scissors, cut off individual leaves at the tip of the stems or remove the entire stem tips with one or two sets of leaves. Once the plant is full and bushy, it is also possible to harvest entire stems by cutting them just above a pair of leaves. Regular harvesting forces the plant to grow more leaves and prevents the formation of flowers. Once the plant has started blooming, the flavor becomes too strong. The best time to cut basil is in the early morning; in cooler temperatures, it is less prone to wilting. Harvesting just before use is ideal. If you need to store it, keep it in a moderately cool place above 50 degrees F. How to Grow Cinnamon Basil in Pots Cinnamon basil makes an excellent container plant. Choose a container that is at least 6 inches in diameter and has large drainage holes and fill it with well-draining potting mix. Because cinnamon basil gets quite big, and overcrowding leads to fungal problems, it is best to give the plant its own container or use a planter large enough to space the plants at least 12 inches apart. Cinnamon basil in containers need more watering than plants in garden soil. Water whenever the top inch of soil feels dry. Repotting cinnamon basil during its single-season lifespan is not necessary. Pruning Harvesting basil regularly usually takes care of the pruning in one fell swoop yet there are some things to know about pruning cinnamon basil. If you are growing cinnamon basil for culinary use, the goal is to get it to grow as many leaves as possible without flowering. Pinch off the central stem when the seedlings are about six weeks old, and be diligent to remove any flower buds as soon as you detect them. If you are growing cinnamon basil as an ornamental, for its edible flowers, or as a pollinator magnet, there is no need to prune anything else but the central stem when the plant is about 6 inches tall to encourage branching. Left alone, cinnamon basil should flower by midsummer. How to Grow Cinnamon Basil From Seed The primary propagation method for cinnamon basil is to start it from seed either indoors or outdoors. Start the seeds indoors about four to six weeks before your last average frost date. Plant the seeds ¼ inch deeps in seed starting trays or flats filled with sterile potting mix. Keep the soil evenly moist. At a temperature between 65 to 70 degrees, germination takes six to ten days. The seedlings need plenty of sunlight; if you don’t have a south- or west-facing window, place them under grow lights for at least 8 hours daily. Harden off the seedlings before transplanting them in the garden well after the last frost. Follow the same directions for direct seeding outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed to at least 70 degrees F. Keep the soil evenly moist. When the seedlings are 2 inches tall, thin them so there is 8 to 12 inches between plants. Overwintering Like all basil, cinnamon basil is sensitive to temperatures below 50 degrees F. Most gardeners don’t bother protecting the plant from the cold because by the end of the summer or early fall, the plant has exhausted its energy reserves. If your plant still looks vigorous and healthy when temperatures drop, you can try to extend its lifespan. Dig it up, plant it in a pot, and bring it indoors. Place it near a south- or west-facing window or under grow lights for at least 10 hours daily while keeping it evenly moist. You might get a few more weeks out of it but even with the best care, the plant won’t last over the winter. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Basil is mostly unbothered by serious pests and diseases, but it can get fusarium wilt, gray mold, bacterial wilt, bacterial leaf spot, and downy mildew. In wet conditions, root rot may occur. The most common pests of basil are aphids, Japanese beetles, and slugs. The application of insecticidal soap helps to control soft-bodied insects. Japanese beetles are best hand-picked and tossed in soapy water. Diatomaceous earth is effective against slugs, but it must be reapplied after a rainfall.