A member of the beet family, Swiss chard (Beta vulgaris) is one of the easiest leafy greens to grow because it will thrive in just about any soil type and all but the most extreme temperatures. The leaves and colorful stems are edible and can be eaten raw, steamed, or stir-fried. Learn how to grow Swiss chard in your garden. How to Plant Swiss Chard Swiss chard is a fast-growing vegetable that is ready to harvest in around 40 days. Seeds can be directly sown into the garden about 1/2 inch deep and two inches apart in early spring or late summer. If you start seedlings indoors, plant them after the predicted last frost about four inches apart, taking care to minimize root disturbance. The best planting site for Swiss chard receives full sun and has nutrient-rich, well-draining soil with plenty of organic matter. Swiss Chard Care Light Swiss chard needs full sun to partial shade with 6-8 hours of full sun producing the largest, healthiest plants. If you live in a hot climate, some shade from the strong afternoon sun is beneficial to prevent leaf wilt. Soil For the largest and healthiest plants, Swiss chard prefers soil with a high organic content, a neutral pH (6.0-8.0), and good drainage but still moist. Water Like most leafy greens, Swiss chard needs a consistent amount of water to stay healthy—about one to two inches of water per week depending on your climate and rainfall. Mulching around your plants and between the rows can help retain moisture. Temperature and Humidity The plants grow fastest in the cool temperatures of spring and fall, although they continue to produce leaves throughout the summer. Swiss chard is a sturdy plant that can tolerate some heat, humidity, and drought, but will not flourish without adequate moisture. Fertilizer If the garden soil is not nutrient-rich, apply a complete garden fertilizer such as 10-10-10 mixing it into the top three inches of soil before planting. Pollination Swiss chard produces tiny flowers that use wind and insects as pollinators. Pollination is not a concern since this is an annual crop. How to Grow Swiss Chard From Seed Swiss chard can be direct sown in the garden or started indoors and transplanted into the garden. You can sow directly in the garden when the soil temperature is at least 45°F. Start plants indoors in a seed-starting mix about two to three weeks before your last expected frost date. The seeds will germinate in five to seven days. Fill a seeding tray with seed staring mix. Sprinkle the seeds over the moistened mix and cover seeds with about 1/2 inch of soil. Keep the tray moist and in bright, indirect light. Transplant your seedlings from indoors after the danger of frost has passed. How to Grow Swiss Chard in Pots A Swiss chard plant will grow well in a container that holds at least two quarts of soil and is at least eight inches deep. Be sure the pot has good drainage holes and fill it with potting soil. Add your Swiss chard seedling and water deeply. Place the container where it will receive at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. Water often to keep the soil moist. Swiss Chard Varieties 'Bright Lights': A mixed variety, these stems are red, white, orange, pink, violet, and yellow mixed. It matures in 40 days. 'Northern Lights': Brightly colored stalks and midribs in shades of red, pink, yellow, and white. Matures in 42 days. 'Ruby': Ruby-red stems, reddish-green leaves, red veins that mature in 45 days. 'Lucullus": Just 40 days to maturity with dark green leaves and white stalks. Harvesting Swiss Chard The tastiest Swiss chard leaves are young and tender. You can start harvesting at any time for smaller leaves that can be eaten raw in salads. Or, wait until the leaves are around 12 inches long with a sturdier stem for cooking. Remove the largest outer leaves first with a sharp knife or garden shears. Continue harvesting single leaves to encourage new leaves to grow. You can eat both the leaves and the stems. Mature leaves are chopped and cooked in sautés, soups, or stews. Stop harvesting when the plant bolts and goes to flower. The leaves will then be tough and bitter. If you can't eat or share all of the leaves, just add them to your compost pile. Pruning Swiss chard does not require pruning other than removing mature outer leaves to encourage new growth. If a plant is overrun with insects, you may wish to cut it down to the soil line to help get rid of the pests. If the plant roots are healthy, Swiss chard will regrow after cutting. Propagating Swiss chard is commonly started from seeds or nursery seedlings, but it can be propagated from cuttings. Cuttings should be taken from the oldest leaves. Use gardening shears to cut a mature stem from the bottom of the plant. Do not propagate from the plant's center. Trim the bottom of the stem at a 45º angle leaving it 4 to 6 inches long. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone and insert it into a small container with drainage holes filled with moist soilless potting mix. Keep the potting mix moist. Roots should develop in a few weeks. If you gently tug on the stem and feel resistance, the Swiss chard is ready to transplant. Overwintering Swiss chard is cold-tolerant and will continue to grow in the garden through frosts until temperatures drop to the mid-20s Fahrenheit. At that point, since the vegetable is an annual it is best to allow the plants to die and plant again in the spring. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Swiss chard leaves can be affected by Cercospora leaf spot, causing older infected leaves to yellow and die. This fungal disease usually occurs when conditions are warm and humid. To help prevent the spread, you can use a fungicide or remove infected leaves and pull up and discard badly infected plants. Use dense organic mulch around plants and water only at the base of plants, not overhead. Leafminers will feed on the surface of Swiss chard leaves. They are considered minor pests, but heavy infestations can reduce leaf quality and yield. Remove infested leaves and plants to destroy them as a primary control. Root-knot nematodes are small colorless roundworms that infect plant roots. While there is no chemical treatment, if a plant is wilting, pull it up and inspect the roots. If they look "knotty" discard the plant. Rotate Swiss chard to another area of the garden next year and incorporate compost to help suppress root-knot nematode populations.

Know what kind of tomato plant you're sowing—determinate tomatoes need less space than indeterminate varieties. Determinate tomato varieties do better in containers or raised beds because they do not need as much space. Proper spacing of tomato plants protects from potential diseases and set plants up to fruit more. Whether you start your tomatoes from seed or buy tomato seedlings, keep in mind while you plant them that proper spacing is essential for successful growing. As a rule of thumb, allow 2 to 3 feet of space in all directions for each plant, though the exact spacing depends on what type of tomato you're planting.1 Read on to learn about properly spacing determinate vs. indeterminate tomatoes, the pitfalls of insufficient spacing, and other tomato growing tips. Spacing Determinate vs. Indeterminate Tomatoes Before planting, check the seed package or the plant label, which should tell you if the tomato variety is determinate or indeterminate. Both tomato types are vines, but determinate tomatoes require less space than indeterminate tomatoes so the exact spacing depends on what type of tomato you are planting. Tomato spacing is usually given in two measurements: space between plants and space between rows. Determinate Tomatoes Determinate tomatoes grow only to a certain height, then flower, set fruit, and ripen within a short timeframe. They can be planted as little as one to two feet apart (though ideally in the 18-14 inches range) in rows 3 to 4 feet apart. The plants are often compact enough that they don’t require support. Because of their limited growth, they also don’t need pruning. Indeterminate Tomatoes Indeterminate tomatoes are the exact opposite—they have a long growing season that only ends with the first fall frost. They need a much more generous spacing than determinate tomatoes and should be spaced at least three to four feet apart in rows at least four feet apart. Indeterminate tomatoes should always be staked, trellised, or caged. Pruning the plants is also essential to keep the vigorous growth under control. Why It's Important to Space Tomatoes Properly Proper spacing between plants is important to keep tomato plants healthy. Even with the best care, these plants are prone to numerous diseases including fungal diseases (like early blight and late blight) and viruses (like tomato mosaic virus). Plants growing in crowded conditions with poor air circulation are an ideal breeding ground for fungal diseases to spread. Generous spacing between tomato plants is also important to give you easy access for pruning, weeding, and harvesting without the risk of damaging neighboring plants. Signs Tomatoes Are Planted Too Close Together Unfortunately, not giving your tomato plants sufficient space will backfire sooner or later in the growing season. You'll know that you skimped on spaced if these symptoms are true of your plants. Poor harvest. The plants are growing slowly or producing a poor harvest because they are competing for nutrients and water. No visual borders. You cannot tell where one plant ends, and the next one starts because the vines have become entangled. Soggy foliage. The foliage remains wet for hours after rainfall even in warm summer weather because there is inadequate airflow. Difficulty harvesting. Harvesting the tomatoes is tedious because you cannot easily access the plants from all sides. Additional Tomato Growing Tips To make your tomato season a success, here are some other key tips for growing delicious tomatoes: Plant them in full sun where they get at least six to eight hours daily. Get the soil ready for planting with soil amendments and compost. Also, check if the pH is on target (between 6.2 and 6.8).2 Tomatoes: From Seedlings to Fruit. Penn State Extension. Fertilize them every two weeks during the growing season. Make sure to water the plants deeply and regularly at the base. Harvest them at the right time. Not all tomatoes are red when they are ripe so know the checklist of signs to look for.

Raspberries are gems in the garden, and to help them thrive, pay attention to what you plant nearby—by companion planting for raspberries, you might just get a bigger harvest. Whether you are planning to grow wild raspberries or cultivated varieties, you want the plants to thrive and produce abundant fruit. One way to help the plants along is to pay attention to what crops and plants are located near the raspberry bushes. Learn more about what plants are great companions to your rows of raspberry canes and which plants should never come near them. 11 Good Companion Plants for Raspberries Raspberries prefer full sunlight and well-drained, sandy loam soils rich in organic matter so it is important to select companion plants that have the same requirements. Since raspberries are usually trellised, there is plenty of room at the bottom of the canes for companion plants. Garlic: The pungent odor repels Japanese beetles that can harm the raspberry fruit and leaves. Leeks, Onions, and Chives: All are members of the Allium family with odors that repel harmful insects and deer. Marigolds: Effecting in controlling certain nematodes, microscopic worms that feed on plants. Lavender: Attracts bees and butterflies for pollination. Nasturtiums: Attracts pollinators and repels whiteflies, squash bugs, and aphids. Yarrow: Repels harlequin beetles that feed on raspberry plants. Chamomile: Attracts pollinators. Mint: Repels aphids. Turnips: Attract the harlequin beetle to prevent it from targeting the raspberries. Spring Cover Crops: In the early spring, sow a cover crop such as buckwheat, rye, millet, or oats to improve the organic matter in the soil and to kill out perennial weeds. The crop should be turned into the soil before it goes to seed. Late Summer Cover Crop: Sow a cover crop like spring oats just after the harvest of the raspberries is complete. The oats aid in hardening off the raspberry plants for winter by absorbing excess water and nutrients in the soil, reducing soil erosion, and smothering weed growth. What Not to Plant Near Raspberries Just as some plants can be beneficial to the growth and fruit production of raspberries, others can transmit plant and soil diseases that can harm raspberries. Tomatoes: A member of the nightshade family, tomatoes can carry verticillium root rot that can affect raspberries. If there have been no tomatoes in the soil near the plants for four years, the area is safe for planting. Blueberries: Blueberries require acidic soil to thrive while raspberries only need mildly acidic soil. Planting both fruits together will allow only one to thrive. Potatoes: Another nightshade, potatoes can spread the verticillium virus to raspberries. Peppers: Avoid planting raspberries in an area that has grown peppers until four years have passed. Strawberries: Strawberries are susceptible to the same root-rotting diseases as raspberries. Land that has been planted with strawberries for four years or more can build up a population of root-rotting diseases and should not be used when planting raspberries. Eggplant: Another nightshade spreader of verticillium root rot, keep them away from raspberries. Wild and Cultivated Raspberries: If planting cultivated raspberry varieties, destroy all wild raspberries within 600 feet of the site to reduce the possibility of spreading viruses. Boysenberries, Blackberries, and Gooseberries: Avoid planting raspberries near similar bramble fruits to prevent the transfer of soil-borne fungal diseases. What Is Companion Planting? Companion planting has been done for centuries and is the practice of growing different plants together for mutual benefit.1 A classic example is planting "the three sisters" or corn, beans, and squash together. The corn supplies a support system for the climbing bean vines, the beans provide nitrogen to fertilize the soil and stabilize the tall corn during heavy winds, and the large leaves of squash plants shade the ground to help retain soil moisture and prevent weeds. Unlike other gardening areas, much information about companion gardening is not always based on hard scientific facts, but more on observations and garden lore found in farmers’ almanacs. However, some studies confirm the benefits of separating certain crops from others to prevent soil diseases and nutrient depletion.

You might recognize the lemon cypress as the potted evergreen that seems to show up in every big box retail store before Christmas. However, this narrow, columnar evergreen tree is more than a lemon-scented holiday plant for indoors. It is a versatile needled conifer that can be used as a hedge, specimen, bonsai, or kept in a container on a patio. Also commonly referred to as the Goldcrest Monterey Cypress, Cupressus macrocarpa ‘Goldcrest’ (also known as Hesperocyparis macrocarpa) is a Monterey cypress cultivar with upward-growing branches. The unique yellow-green color of the lemon cypress can play off the darker greens of other conifers, while texture can be experimented with by placing the shrub next to boulders and fencing. Lemon Cypress Care One of the great things about C. macrocarpa ‘Goldcrest’ is that it is an easy plant to care for. Provide full sun to partial shade. Do not enrich the soil. Water a new plant weekly until established. Light Lemon trees require a good amount of light. Outdoors, a lemon cypress tree should be planted in full sun to partial shade. Indoors, the tree needs 5 to 6 hours of indirect sunlight or morning sun; don't put it in a wast-facing window, or risk harming the foliage. Soil The lemon cypress is adapted to grow in poor, sandy, well-draining soils that are low in organics and not very fertile. This poor soil allows the slow-growing tree to pace its development to match its height with its roots, helping to ensure that winds do not blow the thin and narrow plant over. Water As an outdoor shrub or tree, once established, the lemon cypress needs little supplemental watering. Allow the plant to establish itself by watering it once a week during the first season. If kept as a houseplant, give it a thorough deep watering weekly, ensuring the soil is never too dry. Temperature and Humidity A lemon cypress prefers cool, moist climates with temperatures between 20°F and 80°F. Grown indoors, the lemon cypress needs to be kept in a place with sufficient humidity. Fertilizer Don't fertilize a lemon cypress tree. It's native environment has poor soil conditions, and rich soils will cause quick, uneven growth and could result in an unstable tree. Types of Lemon Cypress In addition to the straight species. Cupressus macrocarpa. a few cultivars of Monterey cypress have been bred: C. macrocarpa 'Goldcrest Wilma': a slow-growing dwarf cultivar, 6 to 8 ft. tall, and 1 to 2 ft. wide, with fragrant, golden yellow needles C. macrocarpa 'Golden Pillar': with golden yellow needles when grown in a sunny location, and a mature size of 20 ft. tall and 4 ft. wide C. macrocarpa 'Citriodora': a slow-growing cultivar that can reach 15 to 30 ft. in height. New growth is bright yellow and turns deep green in the first year. Pruning Lemon cypress looks best in its natural, untrimmed, slow-growing upright shape. The only regular pruning maintenance required is when the lemon cypress is used as a hedge, bonsai, or topiary. In these cases, it needs to be done carefully and in a timely fashion. This shrub, like most conifers, does not take well to hard pruning. Pruning Tip Looking for the best pruners for your lemon cypresses? We tested 8 top-rated pruners in our Lab to make sure your shrubs stay happy and healthy. Propagating Lemon Cypress The best time for propagating lemon cypress from cuttings is in the winter. Here's how it's done: Cut a piece of stem about 4 inches long. Strip the foliage off the bottom part of the stem so the first 2 inches are bare. Moisten the cut end and dip it in rooting hormone. Add moist, well-draining potting mix to a small pot. Use a pencil to poke a hole in the soil mix and insert the cutting. Cover the pot with a plastic bag and use sticks to keep the plastic in place. Make sure the plastic does not touch the cutting. Place the pot in a warm location away from direct sunlight. Water it as needed to keep it evenly moist. When the cutting has developed a good root system—you'll know it's there when the stem does not move if you gently tug on it—it's time to remove the plastic bag, move the pot to a sunny location, and let the sapling continue to grow in the container, or transplant it outdoors. How to Grow Lemon Cypress From Seeds Most lemon cypress trees are cultivars and propagating them from seed does not produce a plant with the same features as the parent, therefore, propagation from seed is not recommended. Potting and Repotting Lemon Cypress Excellent drainage is crucial for lemon cypress so make sure the pot you use has large drain holes. Terracotta pots are ideal because they let air get to the roots but the pots also dry out faster so adjust the watering frequency accordingly. If keeping the lemon cypress in a container, it should be repotted once every three to four years. Move it to a larger pot at least one inch wider than the old pot and backfill with fresh potting mix. Prune the roots conservatively to keep growth in check while repotting. Overwintering Even when grown in a temperature range where it can be grown outdoors, cold winter winds burn the needles so the tree needs some protection. Below USDA zone 7, lemon cypress is best grown in a container and brought indoors during the winter. Keep the humidity around it high by adding a humidifier to the area and place it away from any drafts or heaters. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Cypress is prone to attacks by aphids, mealybugs, caterpillars, and scale insects. These usually don't affect the overall health of the tree and can be controlled with insecticidal soap.1 A more serious problem is coryneum canker, a fungus that can kill the tree. To keep it under control, remove infected branches promptly and dispose of them in the trash.1 Common Problems With Lemon Cypress After pruning a potted lemon cypress, you might notice that the tips of the pruned branches turn brown. That is part of the natural process and the brown spots should be disguised in due time by new bushy growth.