Herb gardens are a staple for many gardeners. Not only are herbs fairly easy to grow, but you also get the added benefit of being able to harvest them on a regular basis for your cooking—and say goodbye to wasted store-bought herbs that go off in your fridge. But if you're considering adding mint to your garden—or are already growing it—you may want to think twice. We talked to expert gardeners to find out why you should never grow mint in the garden, and what to grow instead. Why You Shouldn't Grow Mint in the Garden Gardeners say you shouldn't grow mint in your garden because it can spread rapidly. "The main reason to not grow mint is that it tends to be very invasive and difficult to get rid of once it has become established," says Edwin Dysinger, co-founder of Seedtime. Anna Hackman, farmer and managing member at The Naked Botanical, agrees, and says mint can very easily crowd out other plants so they don't receive enough water, soil, nutrients, or even sunlight. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Can You Still Grow Mint at Home? If you still want to grow mint at home, you have some options. First, Hackman suggests having dedicated beds for your mint, which is something she does herself in her own garden. "I have dedicated beds for my mints and each mint is separated so one doesn't push the other out," she says. Hackman also says if you do want to grow mint but are worried about it taking over your garden, there's an easy answer: grow it in containers, but don't plant the container in the ground. "You will need to pull out some of the mint periodically, so it doesn't choke itself," she says. "I made the mistake thinking I could contain it in a container buried in my garden bed and mint found its way out." Alternatives to Growing Mint Hackman has a self-professed "mint addiction," and grows several varieties like pineapple mint, green apple mint, spearmint, peppermint, and chocolate mint. She also suggests a couple of alternatives, if you like the aroma and appearance of mint but would rather grow something less invasive in your garden. "If you want to grow a mint-like plant, I recommend mountain mint or lemon balm," she says. "Lemon balm will self-seed but you can cut it before it flowers. It generally stays in the same vicinity and doesn't get that large." Mountain mint, she says, is pollinator-friendly and will attract lots of bees, but is a larger option and can grow up to 40 inches. Hackman says there are a range of varieties of mountain mint to fit your needs.

Rhubarb is a cool-season garden vegetable that, once established, can produce a crop for up to 15 years, making it a particularly fruitful addition to any garden. Growing rhubarb from crowns is the fastest way to get new plants, but you can grow rhubarb from seeds, too; it will be several years before you can harvest the stalks. Here's how to grow rhubarb from seeds. Can You Grow Rhubarb From Seed? Yes, you can grow rhubarb from seed. The faster way to get rhubarb plants is to grow them from crowns, which can give you a harvest that same year. However, it's easy and cost-effective to start rhubarb plants with seed, you'll just have to wait three years to harvest. Rhubarb is hardy in USDA hardiness zones 3 to 8 and, starting with seeds, is grown either as a perennial or short-lived perennial in zones 1 to 8. Seeds started in zone 9 are grown as an annual crop with a single harvest from March to May. In hardiness zones with long, hot growing seasons, rhubarb is usually grown as an annual by planting new crowns every year. How to Grow Rhubarb From Seed In the right conditions, rhubarb germinates in 7 to 14 days. Seeds should be directly sown or started in pots in early spring in cooler zones, and in late summer or early autumn in warmer zones, depending on climate. How to Plant Rhubarb Seeds Seeds started indoors germinate best between 68°F and 74°F. For direct sowing into the garden, wait until soil temperatures reach between 60°F and 70°F. Soak seeds in warm water for several hours before planting. In the garden, choose a spot that receives six hours of sun exposure daily. Rhubarb needs well-draining soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. In southern climates, provide afternoon shade. Work a good amount of aged compost into the planting bed. Sow seeds 1/2 inch deep and three feet apart in rows five feet apart. Cover with soil and water thoroughly. To germinate in flats use a 50-50 mix of compost and potting soil. Plant one or two seeds per cell, 1/2 inch deep, cover, and water thoroughly. Place flats in a warm location that receives plenty of indirect light. To grow rhubarb in pots, you'll need 10-gallon containers. Plants grow to four feet tall, requiring lots of space. Choose a container with plenty of drainage holes. Use a 50-50 mix of aged compost and potting soil, plant seeds 1/2 inch deep, and water thoroughly. Rhubarb Seedling Care Water the seedlings when the soil gets dry on top. Soggy soil causes dampening off. Harden off for a week to 10 days by gradually exposing flat-grown seedlings to outdoor temperatures and more sunlight before transplanting into the garden. In zones with short growing seasons, try solarizing to raise soil temperature. In hotter climates add a layer of mulch to keep soil cool. Do not fertilize the first year. Compacted soil can be amended with manure or aged compost in subsequent years. Remove flowering stalks throughout the growing season and brown and dried out foliage at the end of the growing season. Harvest Rhubarb Annual rhubarb grown from seed is harvested between March and May. Stalks are usually smaller and seldom develop the pink to red hues of perennial rhubarb. Perennial rhubarb is harvested in May, June, and early July from 3-year-old crowns when stalks reach between 7 and 14 inches tall. Harvest by pulling and twisting the stalk off at the base. Do not cut rhubarb which can damage the crown. Remove leaves which are toxic.1 When to Plant Rhubarb Seeds by Zone When and how to start rhubarb from seeds depends, not just on growing zone, but on frost dates, elevation, microclimate, and other growing conditions. Ideal conditions for growing rhubarb include 500 hours of winter temperatures between 28°F and 40°F. Plants break dormancy above 40°F and begin to die back once temperatures reach 75°F.2 Consider these planting dates a general rule of thumb. USDA zones 1 to 3: Start seeds indoors in flats or pots eight to 10 weeks before final frost, which occurs from early April to May. Transplant when soil temperature reaches 60°F. USDA zone 4: Direct sow two weeks before final frost, from late April to early May, or start seeds in flats eight to 10 weeks before final frost. USDA Zone 5 to 6: Direct sow in the ground two weeks before the final frost in April, or start seeds in flats eight to 10 weeks before the final frost. USDA zone 7: Plant seeds in flats from January to February or directly sow in September and October. May grow as annual or perennial depending on climate. USDA zone 8: Plant seeds in flats from December to January or directly sow in September and October. May grow as annual or perennial depending on climate. USDA zone 9: Plant seeds in flats or direct sow from August to September for transplant into the garden in December. One annual harvest from March to May.

Prized for their edible stems, or spears, asparagus plants are one of the few vegetables that grow perennially, and they're harvested in spring—long before other crops have even sprouted. But while most gardeners grow green, white, or purple asparagus from year-old transplants or “crowns,” you can save money and make your garden more self-sufficient by growing asparagus from seed instead. In this guide, we’ll walk you through the basics of when and how to plant asparagus seeds and teach you how to transplant, care for, and harvest your own asparagus. When and Where to Plant Asparagus Seeds The main difference between growing asparagus from seeds versus asparagus crowns is that you’ll need to wait an extra year to harvest asparagus grown from seed. But the good news is that asparagus seeds are easy to grow, and they can be started indoors or directly in the garden. Asparagus seeds are usually started inside pots or trays in early spring—about 10 to 12 weeks before the last frost. However, asparagus seeds can also be directly sown in in-ground or raised bed gardens after the final frost of spring. How to Plant Asparagus Seeds Many growers keep asparagus plants in nursery beds for the first year of growth to avoid weed competition and provide young plants with the right conditions for sturdy root development. Whether you’re planning to start asparagus seeds indoors or out, here's how to create a simple nursery bed and sow asparagus seeds. Preparing the Nursery Bed To start, choose a growing location that receives at least seven hours of direct sun daily and follow these tips to create a nursery bed. Loosen the soil to a depth of 10 to 12 inches and remove any rocks and weeds. Test the soil and add soil amendments (if needed). Asparagus grows best in rich, well-draining soil with a pH between 6.5 and 7.0. Before planting asparagus seeds or transplants, mix several inches of compost or aged manure into the top few inches of soil. Indoor Sowing Planting asparagus seeds indoors in early spring takes a bit more time, but it gives you more control over the growing conditions and health of young seedlings. Soak the seeds in water for a few hours before planting. While the seeds are soaking, fill seed starting trays or pots with pre-moistened seed starting mix. Sow one to two asparagus seeds per pot or seedling cell, cover the seeds with ½-inch of seed starting mix, and add a humidity dome. Place the seedlings under a grow light and on top of the seedling heating mat and set to 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Water regularly until the seeds sprout. This can take a few weeks, so be patient! Once the seedlings germinate, remove the humidity dome and heating mat. Continue to water regularly to keep the soil moist, but not soggy. When the seedlings are a few inches tall, leave one seedling per pot or seedling cell and thin out the rest. Transplant indoor seedlings outside when they’re a few inches tall and the danger of frost has past. Outdoor Sowing For a more hands-off approach, plant asparagus seeds outdoors in prepared nursery beds after the last spring frost. Plant seeds ½-inch deep, and 2 to 3 inches apart, in rows spaced approximately 1 foot from each other. If possible, soak the asparagus seeds in water before planting to speed up germination. Water often to keep the soil moist and weed regularly to prevent weed competition. Asparagus seeds should germinate in a few weeks. Once the seedlings have sprouted and are a few inches tall, spread a light layer of straw mulch around the soil line to block out weeds. Transplanting Seeds Seedlings started outdoors won’t need to be transplanted during their first year of growth. However, indoor seedlings should be transplanted outside after the last frost date of spring. Harden the seedlings off over one to two weeks by moving the seedlings outdoors during the day and indoors at night. Gradually increase the amount of time the seedlings are outside and the amount of sun they’re exposed to until the plants can handle full sun. Transplant the asparagus seedlings into rows spaced about 1 foot apart in a prepared nursery bed. Space each plant about 1 foot from its neighbor and bury the seedlings deep enough to cover their roots. Water well and apply a light layer of straw mulch. How to Care for Asparagus After growing for one year in the nursery bed, asparagus crowns can be transplanted into your main garden in early spring. Before planting, loosen the soil and add amendments, then plant the year-old asparagus crowns in 6-inch deep trenches spaced 2 to 3 feet apart. Fan the plants' roots out, space individual plants 2 feet from each other, cover the roots with 2 inches of soil and follow these quick-care tips to maintain a healthy asparagus crop. Mounding. Every few weeks, add more soil over the asparagus crowns until the crowns are covered with a small mound of earth. In winter, layer 4 to 6 inches of straw mulch over the roots for insulation. Watering. Provide asparagus plants with about 1 inch of water per week. Fertilizing. Fertilize asparagus once or twice a year in early spring, and after harvest, with a well-balanced fertilizer or compost. Weeding. Asparagus doesn’t compete well with weeds and beds need regular weeding. Pruning. Don’t cut the fern-like leaves from asparagus plants until they die back in the fall. Those leaves fuel next year’s growth of asparagus. Harvesting Asparagus If you start asparagus plants from seed, you’ll need to wait at least three years to harvest edible spears. Asparagus season begins in spring and stretches until the end of June, but you should only harvest spears for two to three weeks during the first harvest season. Harvest spears when they’re as wide as your finger and about 6 to 8 inches long, and use a sharp knife to cut the spears off at the soil line to limit plant damage.

Growing trees for your landscape is a gardening challenge that offers great rewards. Adding an evergreen for a living or cut Christmas tree is a fun, learning project and your entire family can contribute, from planting a seedling to placing ornaments on the branches. Like most gardening endeavors, this one requires patience. Benefits of Growing Your Own Christmas Tree Christmas evergreens, like all trees, benefit the environment by exchanging carbon dioxide for oxygen to improve air quality. Living trees also eliminate manufacturing costs and environmental waste accumulated in the production of artificial trees. Evergreens serve as food and shelter for wildlife, improve soil quality, prevent erosion, and add year-round color and interest to your landscape. How Long Does It Take to Grow a Christmas Tree? Plan to spend at least five years for your holiday evergreen to reach a good height for cutting or decorating. Several factors determine growth rates. Species and variety of evergreens you choose. Your USDA hardiness zone, specific climate, and growing conditions. Whether you start from a seed, a potted seedling, or a sapling. Popular Christmas Trees You Can Grow Here are eight types of evergreens often found on Christmas tree sales lots that you can grow at home. Eastern White Pine Eastern White Pine, Pinus strobus, is one of the fastest-growing evergreens but starts out slowly. Not until it reaches sapling size does this pine take off so plan on eight to ten years for a full-size Christmas tree at about 4 1/2 feet. It features a pyramidal form with soft, blue-green needles. Branches are used as holiday greenery but are somewhat fragile and may not stand up to heavy decoration. Eastern White Pine is hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8. Scots Pine Scots Pine, Pinus sylvestris, is found across the globe and widely grown for the Christmas tree market. Features include rapid growth, pyramidal shape, sturdy branching, and excellent needle retention. This pine can reach a Christmas tree size of 8 feet in five years. Scots pine grows in USDA hardiness zones 2 to 9. Colorado Blue Spruce Considered a slow grower, Colorado Blue Spruce, Picea pungens, can reach Christmas tree size in five years at 5 feet tall when started as a 2-foot sapling. A notable ornamental in the landscape, the short, stiff, blue-green needles and sturdy branching earn high marks as a holiday tree. Colorado Blue Spruce grows in USDA hardiness zones 2 to 7. Norway Spruce Norway Spruce, Picea abies, needs two years to establish after which it can grow up to 3 feet each year. Starting with a 2-foot potted sapling, it reaches heights to 10 feet in five years with a narrow, conical form and dark green needles. Primary branches turn upwards while secondary branches drape slightly for an elegant flowing appearance. Norway Spruce grows in USDA hardiness zones 2 to 7. Douglas Fir Douglas Fir, Pseudotsuga menziesii, can grow up to 6 feet tall in five years. This is a common tree found on Christmas tree lots but has a short life span of only about two weeks after cutting. It features a conical shape with dense branching and yellow-green to blue-green needles with good retention. Native to the American West and coastal areas, it grows best in USDA hardiness zones 4 to 6. Fraser Fir Fraser Fir, Abies fraseri, is an evergreen you're most likely to see when you visit a Christmas tree farm. One of the most popular holiday trees, it is a slow grower so plan to invest about 12 years to grow your own. Outstanding characteristics include uniform pyramidal form, strong upward curving branches, and blue-green needles with good retention. Fraser Fir grows in USDA hardiness zones 4 to 7. Noble Fir If you live in the mountains or a climate with lots of precipitation and snowy winters, Noble Fir, Abies procera, may be a possibility for a grow-your-own Christmas tree. Growth rates vary, but in ideal conditions, this evergreen can reach 4 to 5 feet tall in five to nine years. Valued for its symmetry, Noble Fir features sturdy branches and blue-green needles with a silvery hue. It grows in USDA hardiness zones 5 to 6. Arizona Cypress If you live in a climate with warm winters, Arizona Cypress, Cupressus arizonica, is a good choice for growing your own Christmas tree. Some varieties can reach 5 to 10 feet tall in just five years. It features strong horizontal branches, a tall, narrow, conical shape and gray-green to blue-green needles with a silvery cast. Arizona Cypress grows well in the desert southwest and USDA hardiness zones 7 to 9. Caring For a Potted Christmas Tree An easy start to growing your own full-size tree is to purchase a young pot-grown tree. Plenty of evergreen varieties are available at nurseries and retailers, but choose one that grows in your hardiness zone and climate. Follow these tips for caring for your potted tree. Consider dwarf varieties. Bring the tree inside for decorating but return it to an outdoor location after ten days. Place it away from heating vents and provide good air circulation. Avoid heavy decorations and overloading branches. Water regularly when the top inch of soil gets dry. Consider potting it up after the holidays. Choose a pot twice the size of the rootball with good drainage. Fertilize your potted tree monthly during the growing season with a balanced slow-release formula.