Lenten rose (Helleborus x hybridus) is not a rose; it's a perennial hybrid hellebore belonging to the buttercup family. The name origin of "Lenten rose" refers to the plant's bloom season, which is around the Christian season of Lent that falls in late winter, and its rose-like flower buds. Lenten rose thrives in partial sun to shady conditions. Plant it in moist, neutral-to-alkaline, rich soil with good drainage. Lenten rose cannot tolerate high temperatures. Lenten rose is toxic to humans and pets. Lenten Rose Care Lenten rose is one of the easiest plants to grow. Here are the main requirements: Plant Lenten rose in early fall or spring in partial to full shade, keeping them sheltered from harsh winter winds. Keep the soil moist, but don't let Lenten rose plant roots get soggy; mulch in early winter. Protect Lenten rose plants from deep freezes. Feed regularly with fertilizer or amend the soil occasionally with organic matter. Light One of the best perennials for shade, hellebores will retain their vibrant sepals and foliage in shady locations. An ideal location for Lenten rose is under the canopy of a deciduous tree, which provides shade in the summer but allows plants to receive sunlight in winter when the trees drop their leaves. They do best when they receive sun in winter but full to partial shade in summer. Soil This early spring bloomer prefers evenly moist, well-draining, fertile soil. Enrich the soil with compost to improve the vigor of the plants or fertilize them with manure tea. Water Hellebores prefer evenly moist but not constantly wet soil; soggy soil can invite disease. Provide enough water to keep the soil moist during prolonged periods of hot and dry weather, but Lenten rose can tolerate dry conditions once established. If no rain is in the forecast, you can expect new plants to need about an inch of water per week. Temperature and Humidity Although its foliage is evergreen, Lenten rose can become scorched and tattered in extremely harsh winters. The plants will need winter protection to keep them safe during deep freezes. Lenten rose requires shade if you live in a zone with intensely hot, sunny summers. It likes constant moisture and grows well in humid climates. Fertilizer Regularly amending your soil with organic matter is enough for a single specimen hellebore. However, for larger plants or a cluster of multiple plants, lightly fertilize with a slow-release, balanced fertilizer in late winter as new foliage emerges. If using liquid fertilizer, ensure it doesn't splash on the foliage because it can burn the leaves. If you accidentally splash some on the plant, use a steady stream of water to wash it off. Types of Lenten Rose Lenten rose cultivars produce blooms in various colors, but the basic plant form is identical. Other hellebore species are similar to the Lenten rose. 'Red Lady': Upward-facing, single-petal flowers with a deep red hue or white with a pink blush. 'Mrs. Betty Ranicar': Abundant snow-white double-petal blooms. 'Windcliff Double Pink': Stunning double pink flowers and mounded foliage. Helleborus niger: Commonly known as Christmas rose, this species produces white flowers, sometimes flushed with pink, that appear at Christmas time in warmer regions or in midwinter in colder climates. Helleborus argutifolius: Commonly known as the Corsican hellebore, it grows along roadsides in Corsica and Sardinia and is known for its coarse but bold evergreen foliage and pale green blooms. Pruning Allow the healthy evergreen foliage to remain on the plant throughout winter. The leaves are dark green, glossy, and look hand-like with fingers. In warmer climates, it is evergreen but will drop its leaves in colder winter climates. Remove old, scorched, damaged, or dead leaves from the plant before the plant is in bloom (usually late winter to early spring). Remove any browned and ragged foliage at its base during the growing season. When the flowers have started to brown at their tips, cut them back to the bottom of the plant. After blooming, prune Lenten rose flowering stems to their base to encourage new foliage growth. Propagating Lenten Rose Lenten rose is among the easiest plants to propagate. You can cultivate more plants through division. The best time to divide mature plants is in spring. A mature plant is about three years old and has flowered in the past. Division can make flowering more vigorous for the upcoming blooming season. Transplanted sections can develop into blooming plants in the first season, but some might not and might need the span of a growing season to recover from the shock of the division. Also, divided plants will likely bloom at least one year sooner than plants grown from seed. To propagate by division: Find a container or shady spot in your landscape or garden, a sterilized knife, and moistened, enriched, well-draining potting soil. Dig up a plant clump and divide it by cutting off a piece of the plant with a healthy root section and vigorous above-ground stems. Replant the division or place the container in a shady location. Water lightly a day or two after planting and keep moist. How to Grow Lenten Rose From Seed Lenten rose produces its seeds in the late spring. You can save seeds collected from faded flower heads for planting in summer or the following spring. Although Lenten rose is not considered invasive, if you don't deadhead its faded flowers, it can reseed, self-sow, and spread to fill an area. Their attractive foliage makes them a gorgeous ground cover. Expect Lenten rose to naturalize under the right conditions. To sow seeds, prepare an area in a shady garden bed or prepare a container with moistened, enriched potting soil. Scatter seeds on the soil surface and gently press them into the soil. Seeds must be in complete contact with the soil but do not bury them. These seeds need sunlight to germinate. Moisten the seed and soil surface. Keep the soil evenly moist, and do not let it dry out. Seeds will germinate over the winter. If not sown immediately after collecting, Lenten rose seeds require a stratification period of at least three weeks of cold for the seeds to germinate. To artificially re-create these conditions, place the seeds in a clear bag and store the bag in a refrigerator for three weeks. Overwintering Although cold-tolerant, this plant needs protection from harsh, cold winds. If the plant is exposed with no windbreak, protect the plants from cold winds with a light fabric covering or cold frame. Otherwise, it can tolerate freezing temperatures. Usually, plants grown in containers need more protection than in-ground Lenten roses. Also, in the colder regions, provide a few inches of winter mulch, which you should remove before they bloom. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Lenten rose is a deer-resistant plant, but they are occasionally susceptible to leaf spot and crown rot. Use preventative fungicides early in the growing season to reduce fungal infections. Proper spacing will also help prevent fungal diseases from spreading among plants. Lenten rose is relatively pest-free; occasional slugs or snails are the most significant threats. How to Get Lenten Rose to Bloom Lenten rose can be planted in early fall or late spring and have a lengthy bloom period. When growing a plant from seed, do not expect plants to produce blooms in the first year. It can take two or more growing seasons before flowers appear. Also, if you transplanted or divided your Lenten rose, it might not bloom for a year or two after that division. To encourage blooming, spread a bit of compost around the plant or a light dose of fertilizer in the early spring. Also, if the plant is being grown in a container, make sure the plant is not rootbound. Bloom Months Lenten rose usually blooms in February and stays in bloom until April. How Long Does Lenten Rose Bloom? Once they start blooming in winter, Lenten rose tends to stay in bloom for about eight to ten weeks. What Do Lenten Rose Flowers Look and Smell Like? Lenten rose is available in many varieties with different flower colors. The flowers have five petals that come together to form a cup shape. There are also several new double-flowering and bicolor varieties. These flowers have very little fragrance and are not particularly well-liked for their scent. Caring for Lenten Rose After It Blooms After Lenten rose finishes blooming, it does not require any unusual care. You may want to save seeds at this time or consider deadheading the plant. Deadheading Lenten Rose Deadheading Lenten rose will not encourage it to bloom further but will prevent it from self-seeding. Deadhead the spent flowers if you don't want the plant to spread in your garden. Common Problems With Lenten Rose Lenten rose is one of those plants that you can plant and forget about. If you situate it in the right spot, this plant can do the rest—and last for years. However, fungus can be a problem. Black Marks on Foliage and Stunted Growth If you notice black patches on the foliage or flowers, it could be the black death virus. This disease makes plants look stunted or deformed; plants will develop black streaks and netting patterns. As the name implies, this disease is deadly. Destroy this plant; it's not salvageable and can spread to other nearby plants. Aphids or whiteflies can spread it. Apply horticultural oil to any plant with those insects to keep the virus away from your other plants. Dry, Brown Blotches on Foliage Botrytis is a fungus that favors cooler, wet weather. It's also called gray mold. It starts as water-soaked spots on leaves and stems and evolves to form dry, brown blotches. The disease can attack the flowers in severe cases, making them unsightly and short-lived. To prevent the fungus from affecting your plant, ensure adequate spacing between plants; crowding breeds fungal issues, as does soil that is too soggy or impaired by poor drainage. To treat the condition, spread 1/2 inch of lime chips around the base of the entire plant. Yellowing Leaves Your evergreen plant might develop yellowed leaves during hot summers or harsh winters. Lenten roses can tolerate extreme temperatures but might not rebound immediately and will reflect their stress by yellowing their leaves or refusing to bloom. To encourage regrowth, trim off dead or dying leaves.

How to Harvest Watermelon Seeds Harvesting watermelons for seeds is simple, but it's important to follow a certain procedure to ensure food safety: Remove the melon: Cut the watermelon from the vine with shears or a sharp knife. Cut close to the stem but leave some of the stem on the melon. Wash the melon: Gently scrub the watermelon with a vegetable brush under clean, running water. Do not use soap.1 Dry the melon: Pat the melon dry with a cloth or paper towel. Hand-drying removes more bacteria from the rind than air-drying. Remove the rind: Cut off each end of the melon, stand the melon upright, then cut away the rind. Use a sharp knife and cut along the melon's curve. Cut the melon: Cut the melon lengthwise into slabs, each slab about half an inch thick. Pick out the melon seeds: Scrape out the melon seeds with a fork. How to Save Watermelon Seeds Wash, dry, and store the watermelon seeds until the next planting season. Remove the flesh: Remove as much of the watermelon flesh or pulp by hand. Wash the seeds: Place the watermelon seeds in a kitchen colander or strainer and wash them with cool water. Remove all of the remaining watermelon flesh. Dry the seeds: Air-dry the melon seeds on coated paper plates, waxed paper, or on clean mesh window screen material. Store the seeds: Store the seeds in airtight, waterproof bags, jars, or containers in a cool, dark location. When to Harvest Watermelons for Seeds Harvest watermelon seeds when you harvest the watermelons for eating, usually in spring or summer. You can also harvest watermelons for seeds only, which affords a broader harvesting period. Watermelons for Eating and Seeds Watermelons should be harvested at just the right time. Watermelons do not ripen off the vine. If you harvest them too early, they will be watery and not sweet. Signs that it's time to harvest the watermelon seeds: Dry tendril: Dried curlicue on the vine closest to the watermelon Hollow sound: Resonant, hollow sound when gently rapped Heaviness: A heavy, dense feel when picked up Yellow underneath: A yellow (not white) oval under the melon, where it rests on the ground Watermelons for Seeds Only When harvesting watermelons only for their seeds, they can be harvested when ripe or left on the vine. When reserving some melons on the vine, let the melons soften slightly but do not let them rot. Leaving seed-only melons on the vine can improve the quality of the seeds. Do not eat the melon's flesh. Types of Seeds to Plant Harvest and save black watermelon seeds for planting. Do not use white seeds. Types of watermelons to plant include: Black Diamond: Popular for their enormous size, Black Diamond watermelons are juicy and sweet but require consistent watering. Charleston Grey: Modestly sized, Charleston Greys top the scales at around 40 pounds and have thick rinds often used for watermelon rind pickles. Crimson Sweet: Crimson Sweet watermelons grow easily in a wide range of melon-friendly climates, and the flesh is uniquely sweet. This melon produces few seeds, so more melons must be harvested to gather the seeds. How to Plant Watermelon Seeds Grow watermelons from seeds either by starting the seeds indoors in pots or flats or by planting the seeds directly in the ground. Watermelons need warm weather without intermittent cold spells, so plant the seeds after the last spring frost. In the U.S. south and southwest, the last spring freeze occurs as early as January. In western mountainous regions, it can be as late as May.34 Watermelon seeds germinate fastest in soil that's between 70 and 95°F. At the very least, the soil should be 65°F, and the seeds should be planted four inches deep. Consult the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map to learn the optimal watermelon growing season for your area.

The eastern red cedar is a slow-growing conifer native to eastern North America that is extremely adaptable to various soils and growing conditions. The species' name is a misnomer, with it being a juniper. The adaptable species can grow almost anywhere, giving it a variety of garden uses. It has allowed horticulturalists to develop specific cultivars to suit landscape needs for almost any situation. Overall the wild type of the eastern red cedar is an attractive needled evergreen with excellent ornamental value due to its winter interest that comes from its startling blue berry-like fruit and gorgeous bark. For those looking to add ecological value, these same cones provide a favorite food source to native birds and wildlife while its lush condensed foliage makes for excellent habitat. An eastern red cedar or one of its many cultivars may be an excellent choice if you want a conifer to add to your landscape. Although not invasive, these are colonizing trees, so if you plant one, expect many more to pop up in the surrounding area. Attributes of the Eastern Red Cedar Pyramidal Salt tolerant Cultivars available Transplants well Good for bonsai Wildlife value Deer tolerant Black walnut resistant Air pollution resistant Caring for an Eastern Red Cedar Planting an eastern red cedar can be a big decision that takes a bit of thought. It can be a large tree that grows slowly, meaning it will be around for a while. Luckily while it can be a huge investment space-wise, its relative ease of care means you will not need to sink much time into the care of the tree once it becomes established in the landscape. Fortunately, being a pioneer species (i.e., a hardy species that is the first to colonize barren environments), it does not take much to establish itself in a given location. Care for the species is concerned mostly with protecting other trees in the area from pathogens that the eastern red cedar carries and ensuring that the species' potential for weediness does not allow it to overtake areas where seedlings are not wanted. Light A young eastern red cedar will do well growing in full sun to part shade, but as it matures, it will do best in full sun areas. Trees grown in less than the full sun that must compete for sunlight will settle into a low-growing shrub-like habit and exhibit a form expressed by more horizontal than vertical growth. If two trees compete, consider removing the smaller of the two to allow the more dominant one to benefit from the full sun as it establishes itself. Soil Of least concern to an eastern red cedar's overall vigor and health is the soil conditions it is planted in. The species does well in poor soils that others would not, which makes it able to thrive in the most intolerable conditions. When planted in good conditions, it prefers it will perform exceedingly well, establish itself quickly, and show a marked increase in growth rate. The tree's most preferred conditions would be rich loamy, consistently moist, and well-draining soil. Extremely adaptable, the only condition the eastern red cedar cannot tolerate is standing water. Save constantly soaked roots; this species can deal with almost any soil. Water Initially, as it is establishing itself, your eastern red cedar will demand a good amount of water until these needs taper off and the tree develops into a tree that can hold its own against some pretty harsh drought conditions. Until it is established, though, right after planting, it is necessary to give an eastern red cedar plenty of supplemental irrigation for the first two growing seasons. Judging the water needs by the soil dampness is the best bet for the species as the tree constantly demands damp soil without allowing standing water to collect. A good way to judge is to press your finger into the soil to a depth of two inches and feel for the soil's moisture. It is time to water your young tree if the soil is dry. Continue doing this throughout the first two growing seasons, checking a few times a week, especially in the summer, more if there are drought conditions. By the third year, you should be able to start tapering off. Temperature and Humidity The range of the eastern red cedar is immense, stretching from eastern coastal Canada south to the Gulf Coast of the United States. There are vast temperature differences in this large swatch of territory, but the eastern red cedar adapts to them all. The commonality is that the temperatures in its growing range never reach extremes. To keep your eastern red cedar healthy and happy, mimic its natural habitat and grow it in moderate temperatures in areas that do not push extreme limits. Keeping it in its happy zones of USDA 2-9 will ensure it thrives. Fertilizer Generally, eastern red cedars do not require any supplemental fertilizer. The species thrives in poor soil as a pioneer species. Adding supplemental fertilizer is unnecessary, especially for wild-type trees. Dwarf varieties or varieties with unique forms, such as abundant fruit-bearing cultivars, may require specific fertilizing. It is best to consult any documentation of the particular cultivar for its exact needs. Types of Eastern Red Cedar Juniperus virginiana has many cultivars with various traits to suit your functional and aesthetic needs. With nearly 40 cultivars available ranging from dwarf to weeping to silver in color and offering excellent disease resistance, nothing should stand in your way from planting this species in your landscape. Juniperus virginiana ‘Burkii’: This male cultivar has a pyramidal shape ranging in height from 10 feet to 15 feet with high resistance to cedar apple rust. Juniperus virginiana ‘Pendula’: This female cultivar has a drooping habit and abundant fruit. Juniperus virginiana ‘Grey Owl’: The dwarf cultivar with an extremely slow growth rate matures around 6 feet wide and 3 feet tall. Juniperus virginiana ‘Emerald Sentinel’: This cultivar is superbly vigorous and hardy, thriving in extreme conditions and the harshest conditions while still looking good. Common Pests & Plant Diseases The eastern red cedar is luckily free from serious disease and pest issues. The only large concern that many will find to be an issue is that the species acts as an alternate host for a fungal disease, cedar apple rust. While this disease does little harm to the eastern red cedar itself, it can cause serious issues to trees in the Malus family, often causing leaf and fruit damage. In early spring, fungal galls will emerge on the juniper tree that must be treated with a copper fungicide to prevent the spread of the disease to any susceptible trees nearby. Ultimately to be safe, all trees in the Malus family should be kept 500 to 1000 feet from any possible host.

In general, gardeners recommend planting vegetables in early spring to early summer. For fall harvests, some vegetables can be planted in late summer. You can get a head-start by starting seeds indoors, but starting plants too late will make your yield smaller. When should you plant vegetables? Overall, the best time to plant vegetables is between April and November. This broad growing season is divided into two seasons—spring and fall—for different crops. We spoke to three gardening specialists so you can learn when to plant vegetables. These experts will help you understand the difference between spring and fall plantings, as well as planting periods for specific vegetables. When to Plant Vegetables The best time to plant vegetables for a bountiful crop in most locations is from early spring to early summer, according to Paul Dysinger of Seedtime. The other best time for planting vegetables is fall. Spring Though spring is the best time to plant, each crop is different, Dysinger says. "Each location has different suggested times for that location based on average frost dates or climate, including if the crop is a warm weather or cool weather crop." The best time to plant vegetables is spring, agrees Chrissie Handley of Online Turf. This gives the vegetables enough time to germinate in the soil before the growing season begins. Within spring, the ideal time to plant a crop is early enough for it not to be killed or negatively impacted by a frost, leaving as much growing time as possible in the season, Dysinger says. Planting in early spring "means you’ll have earlier yield and stronger and tastier vegetables because of it," adds Handley. Fall For a fall harvest, cool-season vegetables can be planted in early spring (March to April) and again in late summer (August to September), says Chris Ramos, a gardening specialist with Blain's Farm & Fleet. The ideal time is early enough in the summer or fall for the crop to reach maturity by the time day length shortens and temperatures drop, Dysinger says. "At that time, the plant's growth slows down, and crops will no longer grow very quickly, if at all." "Warm-season crops like tomatoes and cucumbers should be planted after the last frost in mid-May," Ramos says. The crops can continue producing until the first frost in October or November. When to Plant Specific Vegetables Specific vegetables will have differing seasonal requirements to grow to their full bounty. Carrots As a cool season crop, carrot seeds should be planted in either of two periods: spring or mid-summer. For spring plantings in most locations in the U.S., Dysinger says, carrots should be planted from February to May. If you're in southern Florida, California, or Texas, it's different, and he suggests planting anywhere from September to March. For fall plantings in most locations in the U.S., carrots can be planted from July to September. "For a fall crop, carrots can stay in the ground until it freezes," Ramos says. Corn Spring corn can be planted from March to June, according Dysinger. However, in southern U.S. states without risk of frost, corn can be planted from October to March. For late corn harvests, corn can be planted from June to August, says Dysinger. Cucumbers Because cucumbers are sensitive, they are best planted in late spring to early summer, Handley says. "Cucumbers should be planted in late May to early June and harvested throughout summer," Ramos says. Kale Plant kale, from January to April for transplants and from February to May for direct seeding, according Dysinger. If you're located in southern Florida, California, or Texas, you can plant kale from September to March. Kale can be planted from July to September for fall plantings in most locations in the U.S., Dysinger says. Lettuce Lettuce should be planted from March to May for a strong yield, according to Handley. Peas Being a hardy vegetable, peas can be planted outdoors from March to April. If you like, you can start peas in a container to get a head start on growing. Potatoes Plant potatoes from late February to April. However, if you are located in a warm area, plant potatoes in late summer or early winter. That way, the potatoes won't be fighting the hottest time of the year—mid-summer. Radishes "Since they're fast growers, radishes are best planted during the high temperatures of summer, or from June to August, to help get continuous yield," Handley says. Tomatoes Tomatoes should be started indoors in late March or early April, according to Ramos. "Transplant the tomatoes outdoors in mid-May, and harvest them from mid-summer, or July, through early fall, or around September to October." Ramos adds that this late harvest—October—depends on your local frost conditions. Planting Before the Best Time Can you plant vegetables before their opportune planting time? You can always start your vegetables indoors where you can control the temperature and growing conditions to make sure the seeds get off to a good start, Handley says. Once you can see them sprouting, you can then move them outside. "This method is great for sensitive vegetables like tomatoes or peppers," Handley says. "But for hardier vegetables like potatoes—which infamously grow in any soil condition—carrots, or peas, you can plant them outdoors in slightly colder conditions." In later spring to early summer, Handley suggests moving your more sensitive vegetables outdoors when temperatures consistently reach above 50°F. Planting After the Best Time Is it too late to start a garden? You can often still plant vegetables after the ideal time has passed. The vegetable harvest may not be as bountiful, though. Even though spring is generally the time to plant vegetables, remember that fall is a second growing season. Vegetables planted in spring are harvested in summer, while fall vegetables are harvested from October to December. So, even if you miss spring plantings, you only have two or three months to wait until fall vegetables roll around in midsummer.