Some trees can be pruned in winter, while other trees grow better when they’re pruned in spring. But no matter what types of trees you’re growing, early fall is the worst time to prune trees. Pruning just before winter makes trees more vulnerable to frost damage, but it can also reduce fruiting and flowering, and even increase the incidence of plant diseases. If you’re not sure when to prune the trees in your garden, here are the best and worst times to prune different types of trees, plus a few pruning tips that will help your trees grow better. Why Shouldn't You Prune Trees in Fall? In the early months of fall, trees are hard at work storing energy to carry through winter. Pruning trees at this time of the year can limit their ability to store nutrients, but it can also increase the chances that their tender leaves will be damaged by frost. Fall pruning can also make certain trees more vulnerable to pests and disease, and it may inhibit blooming if you accidentally clip away the flower buds on flowering trees. Broken, diseased, and damaged branches can be pruned away at any time of the year to keep issues from spreading. But more significant pruning and reshaping should only be performed at certain times of the year—and it should be avoided entirely from late summer to early fall. The Right Time to Prune Trees In general, the best time to prune most trees is during their winter dormancy period or from November to March; however, as you’ll soon see, some tree varieties are pruned a bit differently. Certain trees have specific pruning recommendations, so it’s always a good idea to research the pruning needs of the trees in your garden before picking up your pruning shears. Tip If you’re in doubt about tree ID, a tree care professional or your local cooperative extension office may be able to identify your plants for you (and offer some pruning advice too). Deciduous Trees Deciduous trees, like oaks, maples, and many common landscaping trees, lose their leaves in winter, so it’s important to avoid pruning them in early fall when they’re storing energy. Instead, these plants grow best when they’re pruned during their winter dormancy period, which lasts from late fall to early spring before the plants leaf out. Pruning in winter when trees are leaf-free makes it easier to see the tree’s branches and your pruning cuts, but it also reduces the incidence of tree diseases, like oak wilt. Flowering Trees Some deciduous trees produce flowers, but how the flowers form influences how the trees need to be pruned. Using different pruning techniques for new wood and old wood trees will ensure your trees flower well. New Wood Trees: Trees that bloom on new wood or that flower from summer to fall are usually treated like deciduous trees and pruned during their winter dormancy period. Crepe myrtles fall into this category, as do panicle hydrangeas, smoke trees, and rose of Sharon. Old Wood Trees: Flowering cherry, apricot, lilac, dogwood, and other trees that flower early in spring generally bloom on old wood and form their flower buds during the previous season of growth. To ensure you don’t damage flower buds, prune these trees immediately after they finish flowering and never prune them in fall or winter. Fruit Trees Trees that are grown for their edible fruit can usually withstand light pruning at the end of summer, but it’s best to save major pruning for late winter. Pruning fruit trees in spring or summer makes them more vulnerable to fire blight and other diseases, while pruning in autumn can cause newly cut branches to dry out or die back. Hawthorns, crab apples, and other close relatives of apple trees should be pruned during their winter dormancy too. Evergreen Trees Evergreen or conifer trees usually don’t need significant pruning. But if your spruces, hemlocks, firs, and pines need a trim, late winter to early spring is the time. Evergreens, like arborvitae and yew trees, are a bit more flexible and can be pruned through mid-summer—just as long as you don’t prune them in hot weather. Palm Trees Pruning times are a little more forgiving in areas with mild winters, and tropical palm trees can technically be pruned at any time of the year if their fronds start to droop or turn brown. If you can wait, spring is the best time to prune most palm trees. This will allow you to clean up any fronds damaged during hurricane season and the pruning cuts will heal faster as well. Young Trees Newly transplanted trees are handled a bit differently than established trees since they are more delicate and have fewer branches to trim away. For best results, only prune dead or broken branches when transplanting new trees into your garden, and make more significant pruning cuts when the trees are dormant in winter. Go slow with young trees and prune just a few branches at a time, then make more pruning cuts as your trees grow to improve their shape. Why Should You Prune Trees at All? Not all trees need to be pruned, but many trees grow, fruit, and flower better if they’re pruned in the right way and at the right time. Although trees can be pruned for a variety of reasons, some of the main perks of pruning include: Improved shape. Pruning removes wayward branches and helps refine the shape of trees as they grow. You can also use pruning to train trees into fun shapes or trim trees to keep them small! Better fruiting and flowering. Pruning is especially beneficial for fruit trees, but it can also make flowering trees bloom more abundantly. By improving airflow and sunlight access, pruning can boost fruiting and make fruit taste even better. Reduced pests and diseases. If pests and diseases invade, infested branches can be pruned away to keep problems from spreading. But you can also use pruning preventatively to increase air circulation and reduce the incidence of plant diseases, like mildew. Fewer broken branches. Some types of branches, like “waterspouts,” are prone to breaking, which can introduce pathogens into a tree’s break. Removing these branches preventatively can help you avoid issues later on. Enhanced wound healing. Trees have a hard time healing ragged breaks in their branches. But if you prune broken areas away, the tree will heal faster. Safety. Overgrown branches can be a safety hazard, especially if they reduce visibility around your driveway or are growing into power lines. Pruning damaged limbs before they fall is always a wise choice.

The butterfly pea plant, Clitoria ternatea, is a tropical, perennial, and climbing vine that blooms in the summer with flowers noted for producing natural dyes. Although they're mostly grown for their vivid blue, purple, and white flowers, their plants also produce long flat pods containing six to ten peas, which are edible when harvested young. Vines grow to ten feet in length but have a twining habit that keeps plants to a tidy three feet tall. Leaves are medium green and broader at the base tapering to a point. Native to Indonesia, this is a short-lived perennial that grows in USDA zones 9 to 11. It is cultivated as an annual in northern zones or grown in pots and overwintered indoors as a biennial. The blue flowers are edible and are a natural food coloring in Asian cuisine. They are added to beverages and are a popular ingredient in "Butterfly Pea Tea."1 Butterfly pea plant is widely grown as an ornamental and reclamation plant that fixes nitrogen in soil. How to Plant Butterfly Pea The butterfly pea is a hardy plant that requires warm growing conditions with plenty of sun. Easily grown from seed, both plants, and seeds are offered by specialty growers. When to Plant Start seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the final frost in your growing zone, or directly sow the seed in the garden in early spring in zones 9 and higher. Purchased plants and seedlings can be planted in the garden when average air and soil temperatures reach 60 degrees F. Selecting a Planting Site Choose a location that receives 6 to 10 hours of bright direct sunlight daily. Making sure the soil is well-draining is essential. Spacing, Depth, and Support Direct sow seeds about 1 inch deep and 3 to 4 inches apart. Plant seedlings 6 to 10 inches apart and at the same level as in their original pot. To grow butterfly pea plants in pots, choose a container 6 inches deep and 12 to 14 inches in diameter. Sow seeds 1 inch deep and 2 inches apart. Thin to one or two per container once they reach 6 inches tall. Provide a support structure such as a trellis or grow them on a fence or wall. Butterfly Pea Plant Care Light Butterfly pea plants need lots of bright, direct sunlight for 6 to 10 hours daily. Avoid locations where the overhead canopy or neighboring plants cast shade. Soil Tolerant of soil type, this twining vine grows best in fertile, slightly sandy, and well-draining soils. Plants require a balanced pH of 6.0 to 8.0. Water Butterfly pea seedlings benefit from 1 inch of water per week. Once established, they are drought tolerant and need supplemental irrigation only in prevailing hot, dry conditions. Soil level irrigation is best for avoiding fungal infections like powdery mildew that can develop on wet leaves. Temperature and Humidity This is a tropical plant that prefers moist air and temperatures between 70 and 100 degrees F. Hardy only in U.S. zones 9 through 11, the butterfly pea plant does not survive frost and is grown as an annual or potted plant where average temperatures fall below 60 degrees F. Indoor plants benefit from frequent misting to raise the humidity level. Fertilizer Add well-aged manure, compost, or balanced NPK fertilizer at when planting. NPK liquid fertilizer higher in phosphorous and potassium boosts bloom for perennial plants when applied twice annually after pruning. Pollination Butterfly pea plants are perfect which means they have both male and female parts and are considered self-pollinating. The flower, however, requires assistance from bees to complete pollination and fertilization for the plant to produce peas. Potted plants grown indoors year-round will not produce fruit unless hand pollinated. Variety vs. Variety Clitoria mariana, also called Butterfly Pea, is an uncommon wildflower found in the southern U.S. which tends to sprawl along the ground. The flower color is violet-blue to lavender with purple centers rather than yellow as in Clitoria ternatea. All parts of both plants are edible however Clitoria mariana is considered a forage plant and not widely consumed. Harvesting Butterfly Pea Butterfly pea plants are grown for their flowers rather than the edible peas. The flowers open for only a day or two but can be harvested fresh, wilted, or dried. The greatest amount of pigment is extracted from fresh flowers, resulting in richer color in food and beverages. Slightly wilted flowers should be left to dry completely and dried flowers produce the best color when combined with hot water.2 To harvest peas, remove flowers to activate the growth of the pod. Harvest pods before peas are too large which causes them to become tough and flavorless. To harvest seeds, wait until pods dry and turn brown. How to Grow Butterfly Pea in Pots Pea plants tend to grow easily in containers as long as the soil drains well and support is included. Seeds can be started in flats in early spring and transplanted or sown directly into individual pots at least 6 inches deep and 12 inches in diameter. Butterfly pea plants are heat and drought-tolerant so keeping pots outdoors in summer and overwintering indoors is a viable option. Plants grow in clay, ceramic, and plastic pots. Fill the container with potting soil. Butterfly pea plants are not picky about soil type but adding compost to make up 1/4 of the mix provides nutrition for young plants. Starting with your own or a purchased seedling, plant it in the center of the pot at the same level as in the original container. Fill in around the roots and add a trellis or stake. Water thoroughly until water drains from the pot bottom. Place in a location that receives at least 6 hours of bright sunlight daily. Move the plant outdoors into the full sun when temperatures average 65 degrees F. daily. Once the plant is established and growing, allow the soil surface to dry before watering. When average daily temperatures drop below 60 degrees F. move the plant indoors to a sunny window. Prune regularly and often by cutting back the tips of vines. Pruning can be done any time of year to avoid a thin, leggy appearance. Pruning Pruning is needed to keep plants compact and bushy. Prune your butterfly pea plant often by removing growing tips. Deadheading flowers increases flower production. If you want to save seeds for propagation or harvest edible peas for cooking, leave flowers on the vine. Harvest edible peas while still small or remove pods when they become brown and dry. Propagating Butterfly Pea Butterfly pea plant grows easily from cuttings taken from mature plants. Gather a snipper, a pot at least 6 inches deep and 12 inches wide, and potting soil. Take the cutting from an older, woodier portion of the vine. Pruned growing tips do not root well. Choose a section 3 to 5 inches long with a bud at the top. Remove lower leaves and place the cutting in a glass of water or dip the bottom in rooting hormone and plant in potting soil. Placed in water or soil, cutting produces roots in two to three weeks, followed quickly by flowers that open as early as three weeks once the plant is established. Keep soil moist and place potted seedlings in a warm, moist location. The morning sun is best with some afternoon shade to allow young plants to acclimate. How to Grow Butterfly Pea From Seed If you are growing butterfly pea plants in pots, allowing seed production is a good way to keep this plant going. Seeds can also be purchased at some greenhouses, online, and from specialty growers. To propagate from seed, you need a sharp knife, flats, or containers 6 inches deep and 12 inches wide, and potting medium. Butterfly pea seeds are not reliable germinators. Choose mature, aged seeds that are hard, and dark brown. To check for viability, pour seeds into a bowl of water. Discard seeds that don't float. Use the sharp knife to nick each seed to allow for better water absorption. Soak seeds in water for 24 hours. Fill the flat or pot with a light potting mix made up of 25 percent compost. Plant seeds 1 inch deep. In pots, space them 4 to 6 inches apart. Seeds sown in flats can be thinned or transplanted into pots or the garden once seedlings have three sets of leaves. Do not plant outdoors until average daily temperatures reach 60 degrees F. Keep seedlings moist. Germination is most successful in temperatures above 80 degrees F. Germination occurs from six days up to three weeks. Nicking and soaking seeds improve the time to germination. Vines grow rapidly, however average time for plants to flower is 90 days. Potting and Repotting Butterfly Pea Repotting annually is recommended to replenish soil nutrients. Plants are also potted up into containers 2 to 3 inches larger once they've doubled in size. Turn the plant's pot on its side, grasp the base of the plant, and gently work it loose from the pot. Add fresh potting material, choosing a larger pot when necessary. Replant and water. Overwintering Gardeners north of zone 9, need to bring potted plants indoors when average daily temperatures drop below 60 degrees F. Place the pot in a location that receives at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Close to a south-facing window works well. Indoor temperatures need to stay consistently above 60 degrees F., so avoid drafty spots. Add a humidifier or mist the plant frequently to mimic moist, tropical conditions. Allow the soil surface to dry between waterings and continue to prune as needed. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Butterfly pea is not vulnerable to many diseases or pests. Spider mites and aphids can be a problem but can be knocked down with a strong spray of water. Treat infestations with horticultural oil. Overwatering can lead to bacterial soft rot, mold, and mildew.

Determining when to pick bell peppers depends on which variety you grew, but expect to wait 60-90 days to harvest. If you start the peppers from seed, they can take closer to 90-150 days to harvest. But we promise, it's worth the wait! These warm-season vegetables, from the time you plant until they are ready to pick, take longer than almost all other garden crops. Other influencing factors include temperature, water, soil composition, and pest control. Read on to learn when your bell peppers are ready to pick. 3 Signs Your Bell Peppers Are Ready to Harvest Peppers are 3-4 inches long. Most standard-size bell peppers mature at 3- to 4-inches long and wide with a blocky shape. Some giant varieties grow a bit larger, while others (like pimento peppers) may be tapered at the bottom. Fruits are weighty. All peppers should feel solid, slightly heavy, and firm to the touch with just a slight give when pressed with your thumb. Color blushes from top to bottom. Color should be uniform throughout with a glossy appearance. 5 Top Tips for Harvesting Bell Peppers Bell peppers come in a rainbow of colors other than green including red, orange, yellow, purple, white, and brown. As a general rule of thumb, differently colored peppers take longer to mature than green bell peppers. Follow these tips for the best pepper harvest: Pick green peppers anytime, but leave them on the vine another two to three weeks for a sweeter pepper with a richer color. Green peppers that have started to turn will continue to ripen and change color after picking if set out in a cool, dark location for several days. Ripening off the vine, though, can result in loss of sweetness and flavor. Don't try to pull peppers off the plant. Use a snipper or pruner to clip fruits and leave a good amount of stem attached. Harvest peppers right away when they show signs of insect damage or sun-scald. The undamaged portion is still edible. Remove any soft or mushy fruits and dispose of them. This directs energy into maturing viable fruits. How to Harvest Bell Peppers Peppers on each plant ripen at different times over several weeks. You may find one ripe pepper on your plant or several ready to harvest at once. Here's how to pick your peppers. When the recommended "days to harvest: approaches, check plants daily for mature fruit. Pick peppers on a dry day or in the morning after dew has dried. Working in wet plants can damage foliage or spread disease. Remove ripe peppers from the plant by supporting the pepper in your nondominant hand and using your dominant hand to clip the stem where it attaches to the branch. Use an appropriate cutting tool and never pull on the fruit or the branch. Pepper branches can break easily. Peppers without stems should be used right away. Store harvested peppers in the refrigerator crisper drawer for up to two weeks in mesh or plastic bags. Add a dry paper towel to plastic bags and leave bags open to prevent accumulation of moisture.

Eucalyptus mostly enters our homes as cut branches that we use to add a nice smell to our homes. In nature eucalyptus (Eucalyptus cinerea) is an evergreen tree that grows up to 60 feet high in its natural Australian environment. (It's also a favorite food of koalas.) Planted in a home garden, it stays at 6 to 10 feet tall. Eucalyptus are best planted in spring and don't require any staking or other support structure. They have a fast growth rate and can gain several feet per year. It features reddish-brown bark and silvery, blue-green leaves. The bark, leaves, and sap of eucalyptus are toxic both to humans and pets. Eucalyptus Plant Care Here are the main care requirements for growing eucalyptus: Plant in well-draining soil with full sun exposure. Plant in a location with enough space to accommodate the tree’s full height and spread. (Multiple eucalyptus trees should be spaced at least 8 feet apart). Prefers warm temperatures. Harvest mature leaves and branches later in the growing season. Light Eucalyptus likes a lot of light, so place your plant somewhere that receives at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. Likewise, eucalyptus plants grown indoors should be kept near a bright window, preferably one that faces south. Soil Eucalyptus can tolerate most soil types, but it needs soil with good drainage. For container plants, use a well-draining potting mix. A slightly acidic to neutral soil pH is best. Water Eucalyptus is somewhat drought-tolerant once it's established. However, long periods of dryness may cause it to drop leaves. A good rule of thumb is to water when you can stick your finger into the soil and feel dryness at your fingertip. Temperature and Humidity Eucalyptus prefers warm temperatures between roughly 65°F and 75°F, and it likes a moderate humidity level. It cannot survive prolonged exposure to temperatures below 50°F. So if you're growing your plant in a container, bring it indoors when you expect chilly temperatures. Fertilizer If you're growing your plant in the ground, it typically won't need fertilizer. However, container plants will deplete their nutrients more quickly. So fertilize them with a low-nitrogen houseplant fertilizer throughout the growing season, following label instructions. Types of Eucalyptus In addition to Eucalyptus cinerea, there are hundreds of other eucalyptus species. They include: Eucalyptus globulus: Known as blue gum, this species features smooth bark and is particularly adaptable to a variety of growing conditions. Eucalyptus gunnii: Commonly referred to as cider gum, this species has better cold tolerance than most other eucalyptus species. Eucalyptus platypus: Commonly called moort, this is an especially hardy species that can tolerate heavy soils, cold, and drought. Pruning Eucalyptus trees generally don’t need much pruning. However, you can prune overgrown, broken, or misshapen branches to keep the plant looking attractive. The best time to do so is in the summer, but avoid pruning during very humid weather. Pruning Tip No pruners? No problem! We've tested over 10 top-rated pruners to help you choose the right one for your comfort and personal needs—there's an option for everyone. Propagating Eucalyptus Eucalyptus trees are most commonly grown from purchased seeds or nursery plants, but they can also be propagated via cuttings. The best time to take cuttings is when a tree is between 2 and 12 months old; rooting mature stems is difficult. Aim to take your cuttings in the late summer. Here’s how to grow eucalyptus from cuttings: Fill a small pot with a 3-1 mixture of composted tree bark and perlite, and add a slow-release fertilizer. Moisten the soil. Cut a stem that’s around 5 inches long with four to eight leaves. Cut just above a leaf node. Remove the leaves on the lower half of the cutting. Dip the cut end in a rooting hormone, and then plant it in the growing medium almost up to where the leaves are. Place the container in bright, indirect light in a room that’s around 70°F. Keep the soil lightly moist. Roots should form in about a month. Once roots have formed, move the plant to a sunnier spot and space out waterings. How to Grow Eucalyptus From Seed When considering how to grow eucalyptus from seed, note that the seeds first must be chilled in the refrigerator for two months before planting. Sow them in the late winter indoors roughly 10 to 12 weeks before your area’s last projected frost date. Use a seed-starting mix in peat pots that you’ll eventually be able to plant right into the soil to avoid disturbing the roots. Sow seeds on top of the growing medium, only lightly covering them. Place the pots in a warm spot with indirect bright light, and keep the growing medium moist but never soggy by misting it. Seeds should germinate in two to three weeks. Once the seedlings are about 6 inches tall, they’re ready to go outdoors. Potting and Repotting Eucalyptus Growing eucalyptus in a pot is a great option for gardeners who want to grow the plant outside of its hardiness zone. You can bring it indoors during winter. Eucalyptus plants don't like having their roots disturbed, so it's best to start with a large, 5-gallon container to avoid having to repot. Choose an unglazed clay or plastic pot with plenty of drainage holes. If you must repot, go with a pot 2 inches wider than the previous. Overwintering If you’re growing a container eucalyptus plant outside of its hardiness zones, you must bring it indoors to survive the winter. Do not let your plant be exposed to frost, which can damage or kill the foliage. Place it near your brightest window, preferably a southern-facing one, for the winter. Do not fertilize the plant, and slightly back off on watering. Harvesting Eucalyptus Leaves It is best to wait until late in the growing season to harvest eucalyptus. If you just want the leaves, simply snip them off with pruners or by hand. Air-dry them on a paper towel or drying screen in a cool spot out of direct sunlight. Wait until the leaves are slightly leathery or crispy, and then store them in glass jars with tightly sealed lids. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Eucalyptus plants are fairly free of any major pest or disease issues. But you might occasionally spot eucalyptus long-horned borers, especially on stressed plants. Holes in the bark, oozing sap, and foliage discoloration are signs of an infestation. Remove the infested area of the plant immediately, as insecticides are not effective against borers. Eucalyptus can be prone to leaf spots, which can appear black on the underside of the leaves and brown on the upper side; cankers; and root rot. The trees are also susceptible to heart rot, which is when the center of the tree begins to rot and decay, extending to the branches as well. Once heart rot occurs, it is impossible to save the tree as the fungus weakens and softens the inside, causing permanent damage. The tree will need to be removed. Common Problems With Eucalyptus Eucalyptus trees remain relatively healthy when in their preferred environment. However, in suboptimal conditions, they can come down with certain issues. Leaves Turning Brown Leaves turning brown on a eucalyptus tree can be a sign of too little moisture. That’s likely the issue if you notice leaves curling up or dropping as well. In that case, up your watering to keep the soil lightly moist but not soggy. Brown leaves also can be a sign of disease, especially fungal diseases. If just a small area is affected, remove that portion promptly. Or treat with an appropriate fungicide. Falling Branches Due to their prospective size and height, eucalyptus trees can become very heavy, causing their branches to fall or break.