Winter may feel more like a month of hibernation, but it's perfectly possible to enjoy gardening and see a few green shoots well before spring rolls around. One of the best ways to do this is by propagating and growing herbs indoors. Whether you're interested in growing basil for your favorite dishes or would like the calming fragrance of lavender in your home, we spoke with two gardening experts to get their best advice on propagating herbs during winter. Use Softwood Cuttings First, you're going to need cuttings to get your indoor herb garden started. "For herbs like basil, thyme and oregano, I would recommend to use softwood cuttings, not hard, so that one can actually succeed at getting those plants started," says master gardener Kim Butler. The same can be said for lavender and rosemary. If you don't already have cuttings, it's better to wait for spring. "They don't propagate well from hardwood cuttings, which is usually all that's available in the winter months," says gardening expert Ren Elizabeth. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Keep Your Cuttings Warm You're not the only one who appreciates a cozy home during winter—your herb cuttings will love and thrive in this kind of environment, too. "Herbs develop roots a lot faster if they are kept around 70ºF," Elizabeth says. To maintain this temperature, she suggests using a heat mat, or putting them near your radiator or wood stove. Not only does this give your plants a better chance of survival but it cuts down on the possibility of rotting, too. Be a Mindful Propagator Some herbs are easier to grow than others, and practice makes perfect, as does knowing certain plant behaviors. Even the simplest herbs to grow can have their fair share of challenges—like mint. While you may want to move these herbs outside come springtime, Elizabeth warns against putting mint to raised beds or directly into the ground. "It really will take over and it is really difficult to stop its spread," Elizabeth says. The best way to keep herbs in check is to do your research. Invest in a Grow Light Because winter is darker and colder than spring and summer, having a little supplementary light can help support your cuttings. Propagated herbs need the energy from a light source in order to grow and thrive, just as newly planted seeds might. In order to support your plants, you can invest in true grow lights, or get creative like Elizabeth does. "I use LED shop lights that I have mounted on a metal shelving unit," she explains. "While shop lights don't emit a focused light spectrum like grow lights do, they are very affordable to buy and are energy efficient." Opt for Water Propagation There are a few different ways you can propagate plants, but Butler recommends using a water propagation method by "placing the cuttings in a clear jar at room temperature with the leaves above the water." It's a relatively simple way to get your herbs going and doesn't require any soil from the get-go. However, Elizabeth says to keep an eye out for algae growth. She's found that her water-bound cuttings are often prone to algae. "In order to keep this at a minimum, I change the water a few times a week," Elizabeth says. Add Some Honey Part of propagating and growing herbs indoors is waiting. It takes some time to see growth and get your herbs to a point where they can be planted and harvested. "I sometimes add honey to stimulate the process," Butler says. But she also adds that you shouldn't "use nutrients until they have properly established roots." Keep a System Going Year-Round Winter propagation is totally doable, but it's smart to have a system and routine in place all year long to keep your plants healthy and keep an abundance of herbs coming in. "[I] regularly prune them, rotate my pots, and sometimes move them outdoors for some air, and use those cuttings to start new plants," Butler says. Elizabeth also encourages taking more cuttings than you usually would—especially for this colder season. "By giving yourself an extra cutting or two, you're countering some of the decline in rooting rate that you'll normally experience in the winter," she says. Know Specific Plants' Needs While there are some general herb care guidelines, each plant has its own needs. It's smart to read up on the specific herbs you want to propagate and grow so you know how to best care for them. For example, Elizabeth notes that oregano is hardy and "does well being propagated by division nearly year-round." Thyme, on the other hand, does best when it's layered under dirt in the soil. Knowing what different herbs like will lead to far more success when creating your own herb garden this winter.

Landscaping hydrangeas—potted or otherwise—will come back if planted within their USDA zone. Hydrangeas sold as flowering plants rarely return because of a forced early bloom period. Overwintering hydrangeas is low-maintenance and can be achieved with mulch and the right container for potted plants. Whether your hydrangea comes back next year depends on the type: Some last only a year at most, while others can last for decades. Here is how to successfully grow hydrangeas as perennials in the ground or in pots, what you can do to get them through the winter, and other hydrangea care tips. Are Hydrangeas Perennials? There is a significant difference between the small potted flowering hydrangeas that are sold by florists and a hydrangea that you bought at a nursery and planted in your landscape. The first kind is short-lived by design and the second kind lasts for years, if not decades. Small potted hydrangeas that are sold as flowering plants are not perennials. Also called florist hydrangeas, these hydrangeas have been forced into flowering early, and have weak stems and a much smaller root system as a result. This affects their ability to get established in the soil the same way, which greatly diminishes their chances of surviving the winter, and are more susceptible to diseases.1 As for landscaping hydrangea shrubs, these can be perennials. However, whether they come back every year depends on the hardiness of the hydrangea, which varies between hydrangea species and varieties. If the USDA zone of your location matches the hardiness zone requirements of the hydrangea you planted—and the rest of the growing conditions are also met—it is highly likely to come back. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Hardiness Zones for Hydrangeas Generally, members of the Hydrangea genus grow in Zones 3-9. Some species or varieties have a slightly narrower hardiness range: Bigleaf hydrangea: Zones 5-9 Oakleaf hydrangea: Zones 5-9 Climbing hydrangea: Zones 4-8 Within the species, there are also differences in hardiness between the cultivars. For example, Endless Summer is an outlier, a particularly cold-hardy bigleaf hydrangea that survives winters as low as zone 4. If your hardiness zone is lower or higher than that of the variety, it will grow as an annual. Florist hydrangeas are also grown as annuals. A frost-free climate (Zone 10-11) is not suitable for growing hydrangeas as perennials because to go dormant and bloom the next year, hydrangeas need a cold period during the winter. How to Grow Hydrangeas in Pots Hydrangeas in pots can be grown as perennials, but they need a little extra care. Select a frostproof pot to prevent cracking; clay, terra cotta, or ceramic pots are not suitable. Make sure the pot has large drainage holes. Place the potted plant in a protected spot, such as north- or east-facing site to avoid strong sun exposure and temperature extremes. Potted hydrangeas dry out much faster than plants in garden soil. Water frequently, up to once or twice a day in hot weather whenever the top inch of soil feels dry. Water slowly and deeply until water drips out of the drainage holes. Fertilize the hydrangea twice, once in early spring and again in mid-spring, to make up for the washout from frequent watering. Do not apply fertilizer after late July. How to Overwinter Hydrangeas If you have planted a hydrangea that is suitable for your climate, there is no need to protect in-ground hydrangeas during the winter. However, covering the area around the shrub with 3 to 4 inches of mulch insulates the roots against the cold. Potted hydrangeas need to be winterized, even if they are hardy in your zone. Burying the container in the ground soil before the ground freezes is only practical for smaller pots. For larger containers, build an insulation silo by placing the container in a larger container filled with mulch or straw. Alternatively, wrap the container (not the plant) with several layers of bubble wrap or burlap. Tips for Growing Hydrangeas Finding the right amount of sun exposure for your hydrangea is key for it to bloom. The warmer your climate, the more shade the hydrangea needs; locations in morning sun and afternoon shade are best. Do not overfertilize the plant. Instead of using commercial fertilizer, working organic matter such as compost into the soil every spring is often sufficient to add nutrients. Using organic matter avoids too much nitrogen, which leads to lots of foliage and fewer blooms. Hydrangeas need consistent moisture. In dry spells and hot weather, keep an eye on the plant. If the leaves look wilted during the day and don’t recover in the evening, water deeply. Familiarize yourself with the budding and flowering pattern of your hydrangea because that determines the right time to prune hydrangeas.

After a productive tomato growing season, it’s hard to watch your tomato plants die back with frost. But, here's a gardener's secret: if you have the right tools and a little space, you can keep tomato plants alive through winter and enjoy your favorite tomatoes for years to come. To get you started, here are 3 easy techniques for overwintering tomato plants indoors or out in your garden, plus a selection of my favorite cold hardy tomato varieties for chilly weather. Can You Grow Tomatoes Year-Round? Tomatoes are heat-loving plants that grow perennially in zones 10 and up. But in chillier locations, these plants are typically cultivated as annuals and replaced with new tomato plants each spring. However, if you’re open to overwintering tomato plants indoors, you can keep tomatoes growing year-round in any climate. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Can You Overwinter Tomato Plants? Yes! While many gardeners pull up their tomato plants in fall, tomatoes can be overwintered outdoors in zones 10 and up or in homes or heated greenhouses in colder locations. In fact, tomatoes are surprisingly easy to overwinter indoors and they have many of the same care needs as tropical houseplants. Overwintering Options for Tomatoes Growers have several options when it comes to overwintering tomatoes. Tomatoes can either be overwintered outdoors with season extension products, or they can be overwintered inside as potted plants or cuttings. Which method you choose to use will depend on your growing zone and how much space you have for growing tomatoes. How to Overwinter Tomatoes Indoors Overwintering potted tomatoes indoors or in a greenhouse takes a bit more work, but it’s the only overwintering option that may allow you to harvest tomatoes year-round. Prepare Your Tomatoes Prepping tomatoes for overwintering begins in late summer to early fall. Carefully inspect your plants for signs of pests and disease and select only the healthiest plants for overwintering. Continue to water these plants regularly until you move them indoors, but stop fertilizing them in late summer. Prune Carefully Smaller tomato plants are easier to move indoors, so pick up your sterilized pruners and carefully prune away extra stems, suckers, and damaged leaves. Larger plants should be pruned back a bit more severely so that you’re left with about 1 to 2 feet of the plant’s main stem and a few healthy branches. You can also prune away any lingering fruit and flowers to help your plants transition more easily to indoor living. Pot (or Repot) Plants If you want to overwinter tomatoes in your garden, you’ll need to transplant them into roomy and well-draining planters that are at least 14 inches in diameter. To start, carefully dig up tomatoes before frost arrives, and make sure to leave as much of the plant’s roots attached as possible. Plant your tomatoes in pots filled with a well-draining potting mix and water them in. If you’re growing larger tomato plants and plan to harvest fruit indoors, you may want to add a small trellis or stake to your pot at this time to support your plants as they grow. Acclimate Tomatoes Indoors Before bringing your tomatoes indoors for good, check your plants carefully for pests and slowly acclimate your plants to your home or greenhouse by moving them inside for just a few hours each day. Continue this process over the next week or two, gradually extending the amount of time your plants spend indoors until they’re fully acclimated to the temperatures and light levels of indoor life. Provide Indoor Plants with the Right Care Place plants in front of a sunny window or under a grow light and water them regularly to keep the soil from drying out. Bright windows and temperatures that are above freezing should be sufficient for keeping tomato plants alive through winter. Provide your plants with warmer temperatures, monthly fertilizer, and a grow light if you want to grow tomatoes. Pruning off the fruit, flowers, and wayward stems keeps tomato plants healthier through winter. Hand-pollinate the flowers if you want your plants to fruit. Transplant Tomatoes Outdoors Come Spring. When spring returns and temperatures are consistently above 55 degrees Fahrenheit, harden off your plants over a week or two by moving them outdoors during the day and inside at night. When your plants can tolerate full sun and outdoor weather, position their pots in a sunny spot or transplant them back into your veggie beds. Soon enough, you’ll be harvesting more tomatoes from your overwintered plants. How to Overwinter Outdoors While cool weather gardeners need to overwinter tomato plants indoors, gardeners in USDA growing zones 10 and up can overwinter tomatoes right in their gardens. This method works for both potted tomatoes and tomatoes in inground and raised beds, although potted plants may need a little more insulation. For best results, choose cold-hardy tomato varieties for overwintering. Prepare your plants: To get your tomatoes ready for winter, stop fertilizing your plants in late summer to early fall, but continue to water your plants regularly. Do some pruning: Before temperatures dip, prune away any new growth on your tomatoes and cut your plants back so that you’re left with just a foot or two of the plant’s main stems. Insulate your tomatoes: Add a 2 to 3-inch layer of natural mulch around the base of your plants to protect the roots from cold. Uncover plants in spring. When spring returns and the danger of frost has passed, go ahead and uncover your plants, rake away excess mulch, and start tending your tomatoes as usual! How to Overwinter With Cuttings If you don’t want to overwinter entire tomato plants, you can propagate your favorite tomatoes from stem cuttings or tomato suckers. This technique is a great space saver and can also help you salvage tomato plants damaged during the growing season. Take your cuttings: Before frost arrives, head out into your garden and take 4 to 6-inch long cuttings from your tomato plants. Propagate the cuttings in soil or water: Inspect cuttings carefully for pests, pinch off the flowers and damaged leaves, and remove any leaves that are growing from the lower portion of your cuttings. For water propagation, fill a clear glass container with an inch or two of water and place your cuttings in the water so that the cut stem ends are fully submerged and the leaves are above the water line. For soil propagation, dip the cut stem ends of your cuttings into rooting hormone, plant the cuttings 1 to 2 inches deep in pots filled with potting mix or seed starting mix, and cover the cuttings and pots with clear plastic bags to conserve humidity. Care for your plants through winter. Place your cuttings in a warm spot that receives bright, indirect light, and continue to care for your cuttings for a few weeks until they root. Transplant tomatoes outdoors in spring. Once your plants are properly hardened off, transplant them into pots or your garden beds. Why Should You Overwinter Tomatoes? Overwintering tomatoes is a fun experiment, but it has a few major advantages too. By keeping tomatoes alive through winter, you can extend your growing season significantly. You can harvest tomatoes earlier the following year. Overwintering tomatoes can save you money. It's a great way to preserve hard-to-find and heirloom tomatoes, as well as your favorite and most productive plants. 5 Cold-Hardy Tomato Varieties While frost hardy tomatoes don’t exist, some tomatoes are more cold tolerant than others. If you want to extend your tomato growing season or overwinter tomatoes outdoors in mild climates, these cold tolerant tomato varieties are hard to beat! Glacier. With an impressively long harvest season, ‘Glacier’ is one of the first tomatoes to fruit in summer and the last tomatoes to fruit in fall! Moskvich. An early-season favorite, ‘Moskvich’ is resistant to cracking and grows well in greenhouses. Siberian. Undeterred by the cold, ‘Siberian’ continues to fruit even when temperatures drop to 38 degrees Fahrenheit! Sub-Arctic Plenty. One of the fastest growing heirlooms you can find, ‘Sub-Arctic Plenty’ is ready to harvest just 42 days after transplanting. Oregon Spring. Another early producer, ‘Oregon Spring’ is resistant to verticillium wilt and produces fruit about 60 days after transplanting.

When the weather grows chilly and the days get short, you know pumpkin season has arrived. The quintessential fall crop, pumpkins are typically harvested when the rinds develop their mature coloration, or about 90 to 120 days after sowing. It can be difficult to know exactly when to harvest pumpkins since not all pumpkins turn orange at harvest time (and some varieties mature faster than others). If you’re perplexed by picking pumpkins, these tips will help you harvest sugary sweet pie pumpkins and sturdy carving pumpkins at the perfect time. When to Harvest Pumpkins Different pumpkin varieties mature at different rates, but most pumpkins are harvested from late August through October. To get a better idea of exactly when your pumpkins will be ready, take a look at your seed packet. Most pumpkins are harvested about 90 days after planting, but giant pumpkins and other slow growers can take over 160 days to ripen. 5 Signs Your Pumpkin Is Ready to Pick Pumpkins have a longer shelf life and a sweeter flavor if they’re allowed to fully ripen in the garden. But mature pumpkins can vary significantly in shape, size, and color, which can make it hard to know exactly when they’re ready to harvest. If you want to pick pumpkins at the right time, these signs of ripeness will let you know when your pumpkins are ready. They developed their mature color. While most people associate ripe pumpkins with the color orange, different pumpkin varieties may produce yellow, white, or even greenish-blue fruit! Knowing what color your pumpkins are supposed to be when mature will help you judge when your pumpkins are ripe. The vines are brown and dying. Pumpkins continue to grow as long as their vines are green. But when cold weather hits and the pumpkin vines start to brown and shrivel, it’s time to harvest! Rinds feel tough. Pumpkin rinds thicken as the fruit ages and fully ripe pumpkins should have leathery rinds that are difficult to pierce with your fingernail. Skin is dull. Underripe pumpkins often have glossy skins that catch the sunlight, while ripe pumpkins have dull, matte rinds. The sound is hollow. If you’ve ever knocked on a ripe pumpkin with your knuckles, you know they sound a bit hollow. That’s because pumpkins develop more interior air pockets when they reach a harvestable size. 6 Tips for Harvesting Pumpkins Pumpkins can be harvested one at a time as the fruit ripens, or you can harvest the entire plant in one go if the vine has started to die away. Here are a few tips to make harvesting even easier and protect your pumpkin crop from damage: Wear gloves. Pumpkins have prickly stems and leaves, which can irritate the skin if you don’t wear gloves when harvesting. Harvest on a sunny day. Although pumpkins can technically be harvested in any weather, harvesting pumpkins on a dry, sunny day helps pumpkins cure faster and keeps plant diseases from spreading. Make a clean cut. Fully ripe pumpkins often have dried stems that detach easily from the pumpkin vine. If the stems still feel sturdy, harvest your pumpkins with sharp pruners so you don’t accidentally damage the plant. Leave some stem. Pumpkin stems add a bit of charm, but they also prevent fungi and bacteria from seeping into pumpkins and causing rot. Be gentle. To avoid breaks and bruises, handle your pumpkins gently and never carry them by their stems. Pick pumpkins before a hard freeze. It’s best to leave pumpkins in the garden until they’re fully ripe, but pumpkins should always be harvested before a hard freeze. As long as the pumpkins have started to develop their mature color, they should ripen just fine indoors. How to Store Pumpkins While pumpkins can be eaten or carved immediately after harvesting, pumpkins intended for long-term storage should be cured to thicken up their skins and reduce the chances of rot. Before curing, rinse your pumpkins in a 10% bleach solution and allow them to air dry. Spread your harvest out in a single layer in a warm, dry, and protected spot, and allow the pumpkins to dry and cure for 1 to 2 weeks. After curing, store your pumpkins in a cool location, like a well-ventilated root cellar, or keep them outdoors on a covered porch. Pumpkins stay fresh longer if you store them out of direct sun and keep them in a cool spot that stays between 45 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Whole pumpkins also last longer than carved ones, so wait until just before Halloween to carve jack-o-lanterns.