Rhubarb is the most flavorful when the leaf stalks are young and tender, about 7 to 14 inches long, soon after the leaf unfurls—this is the best time to harvest it. Usually, this happens between May and July when growing this as a spring crop. To prevent damaging the perennial plant and diminishing next year's harvest, grasp each leafstalk near the base and pull it slightly to one side. Using a knife to cut the stems can leave an entry point for crown rot diseases. Follow our guidelines for a bountiful rhubarb harvest. When to Harvest Rhubarb Rhubarb is a cool-season, hardy perennial that goes dormant in the winter with leaf stalks that emerge in early spring. The best time to harvest the pink or red leaf stalks with a unique tart and tangy flavor is when they are young and tender. As the stalks grow large, the texture becomes more stringy. As a rule of thumb, the deeper the red color, the more flavorful the stalks will be. Depending on the rhubarb variety, the leaf stalks may be only 12 inches long, or as long as two feet. Harvest season can begin as early as mid-March in warmer growing zones and continue through the end of June in cooler climates. How to Harvest Rhubarb When the leaf stalks have grown to their expected height and turned pink or red, it's time to harvest them. Harvest each stalk individually by grasping the stalk firmly near the base of the plant and pulling it to one side with a quick twist. The stalk will be released from the plant. Use a knife or garden shears to remove the leaves. Place the stalks in one basket and the leaves in another. While the leaves should not be eaten, they can be safely added to the compost pile. Do not use a knife or garden shears to cut the stalks from the plant1, as the knife can transplant diseases or pests from plant to plant. The open wound left by cutting the stalk can also invite diseases like crown rot into the plant. Have a couple of baskets or buckets on hand when harvesting rhubarb. The leaves should be trimmed from the stalk as soon as possible, as leaving them on will speed up the wilting of the stalks. How to Store Harvested Rhubarb If you plan to use the harvested rhubarb with a couple of hours, wash away any garden soil with fresh water and trim the ends. Cut into smaller pieces to stew, poach, roast, or purée. If you don't plan to use it immediately, the freshly harvested stalks can be kept in the refrigerator, unwashed, and wrapped tightly in plastic, for up to three weeks. Rhubarb can also be canned or frozen for use in future recipes. How to Know When Rhubarb Is Done Producing You will notice that the rhubarb plant will stop or slow down production of new growth as the weather warms. Stop removing leaf stalks when this happens to keep the plant healthy and vigorous. Allow the plant to keep all the remaining stalks and leaves to build energy reserves for next year. If the plant bolts or a seed stalk emerges from the plant, cut it off. If the plant flowers and sets seed, the harvest for next year will be much smaller.

Herb gardens are a staple for many gardeners. Not only are herbs fairly easy to grow, but you also get the added benefit of being able to harvest them on a regular basis for your cooking—and say goodbye to wasted store-bought herbs that go off in your fridge. But if you're considering adding mint to your garden—or are already growing it—you may want to think twice. We talked to expert gardeners to find out why you should never grow mint in the garden, and what to grow instead. Why You Shouldn't Grow Mint in the Garden Gardeners say you shouldn't grow mint in your garden because it can spread rapidly. "The main reason to not grow mint is that it tends to be very invasive and difficult to get rid of once it has become established," says Edwin Dysinger, co-founder of Seedtime. Anna Hackman, farmer and managing member at The Naked Botanical, agrees, and says mint can very easily crowd out other plants so they don't receive enough water, soil, nutrients, or even sunlight. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Can You Still Grow Mint at Home? If you still want to grow mint at home, you have some options. First, Hackman suggests having dedicated beds for your mint, which is something she does herself in her own garden. "I have dedicated beds for my mints and each mint is separated so one doesn't push the other out," she says. Hackman also says if you do want to grow mint but are worried about it taking over your garden, there's an easy answer: grow it in containers, but don't plant the container in the ground. "You will need to pull out some of the mint periodically, so it doesn't choke itself," she says. "I made the mistake thinking I could contain it in a container buried in my garden bed and mint found its way out." Alternatives to Growing Mint Hackman has a self-professed "mint addiction," and grows several varieties like pineapple mint, green apple mint, spearmint, peppermint, and chocolate mint. She also suggests a couple of alternatives, if you like the aroma and appearance of mint but would rather grow something less invasive in your garden. "If you want to grow a mint-like plant, I recommend mountain mint or lemon balm," she says. "Lemon balm will self-seed but you can cut it before it flowers. It generally stays in the same vicinity and doesn't get that large." Mountain mint, she says, is pollinator-friendly and will attract lots of bees, but is a larger option and can grow up to 40 inches. Hackman says there are a range of varieties of mountain mint to fit your needs.

On-point planting times are important to make the most of your vegetable plot. What you plant and when depends on your hardiness zone, garden conditions, and what else you are growing or have been growing in your plot—never underestimate the importance of crop rotation and the right companion plants to help prevent diseases. To help get you started, we’ve offered some month-by-month suggestions for when you should plant vegetables and what types based on your USDA hardiness zones. January You can start sowing seeds of cool-season vegetables outdoors or in cold frames in warmer hardiness zones. In the colder zones, you’ll need to start the seeds now indoors (and, in some cases, under lights) and transfer them outside once the soil warms up. Always check your expected last frost dates. In the meantime, it’s a good time to prepare empty parts of the garden for planting. Clear the plot, work compost into the soil, and apply any required amendments following a soil test. Zone 1 to 3: Carrots, kohlrabi, head lettuce, leaf lettuce (start all seeds indoors) Zones 4-6: Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, leeks, onions (start all seeds indoors) Zones 7-12: Spinach, radishes, arugula, fennel, carrots, beets, turnips (all direct sow outdoors) February Raised beds are a good idea if you are planting outdoors at this time of year—they can help protect your seeds from the hardest frosts. Zones 1-3: Onions and celery (start indoors and possibly under lights) Zones 4-6: Broccoli, celery, leeks, onions (start indoors and possibly under lights) Zones 7-12: Cold-hardy lettuce, radishes, spinach, turnips, and peas (all direct sow outdoors) March Now is the time to harden off seedlings to transplant them outdoors. It’s also when you start to have more options for what you can directly sow in the ground. Zone 1-3: Beets, broccoli, cabbage, kale, lettuce, spinach (best to start seeds indoors) Zones 4-6: Beets, cabbage, cress, lettuce, tomatoes, basil, cilantro, peas Zones 7-12: Beans, capsicums, celery, squash, sweet potatoes, lemon balm, hyssop April You can get caught out by late heavy frosts at this time of year in some regions, so consider starting seeds under the protection of cloches or plastic tunnels. Zone 1-3: Arugula, beets, broccoli, chives, peas, collard greens Zones 4-6: Onions, peas, radishes, lettuce, spinach, leeks, parsnips (consider plastic tunnel protection) Zones 7-12: Beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, celery, spinach, Swiss chard, sage May May is often one of the busiest months for planting vegetables. Tender warm-season crops can often be sown outdoors. However, as the weather warms up, take measures to control weeds and garden pests, such as spider mites, aphids, and cutworms. Zone 1-3: Cucumbers, pumpkins, lettuce Zones 4-6: Cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, tomatoes, eggplants, capsicums, cucumbers Zones 7-12: Celery, sweet corn, okra, capsicums, pumpkins, pole beans, Swiss chard June You are spoilt for choice when it comes to what to plant in June. If you are doing succession planting, you may even be sowing your second batch of seeds for some vegetables, like fast-growing lettuce or radishes. Zone 1-3: Peas, kale, chard, arugula, lettuce Zones 4-6: Beans, Brussels sprouts, carrots, cress, leeks, spinach, zucchini, oregano Zones 7-12: Eggplants, capsicums, tomatoes, cucumbers, marrows, sweet corn July July is one of the busiest months. You can be planning your fall vegetable garden and tending to your summer harvests. You’ll also want to water deeply and infrequently to promote a flavorful crop. Zone 1-3: Kale, lettuce, radishes, carrots, cabbage, peas, beans Zones 4-6: Chicory, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, spinach, turnips, parsley Zones 7-12: Beans, broccoli, capsicums, leeks, eggplants, lettuce, basil August There is a wide range of vegetables you can plant in August. It’s also time to prepare your soil for planting cool-season crops over the next couple of months. Deep watering should also continue to avoid drought stress. Zone 1-3: Cabbage, broccoli, spinach, radishes, chives, dill Zones 4-6: Brussels sprouts, carrots, chicory, spring onions, spinach, broad beans Zones 7-12: Beets, mustard, onions, parsnips, eggplants, leeks September Even if you select fast-growing crops to squeeze in an extra harvest, always check your average first frost date when planting in September. You want to avoid harsh weather killing off your crops. Zone 1-3: Spinach, kale, radishes, carrots, lettuce, broccoli, cauliflower Zones 4-6: Cabbage, leeks, cress, radishes, spinach, turnips, chicory, parsley Zones 7-12: Beets, cabbage, mustard, peas, spring onions, cilantro October Investing in protective cloches and plastic tunnels can help you extend your vegetable harvest season around this time of year. Now is also the time to consider whether you want to introduce a winter cover crop, such as clover or winter rye. These non-edibles can protect the soil from erosion and add nutrients back into the depleted soil. Zone 1-3: Garlic, peas, kale, lettuce, carrots, beets Zones 4-6: Leeks, lettuce, onions, radishes, spinach, broad beans Zones 7-12: Beets, cabbage, cress, lettuce, spring onions, peas, dill, lemon November In the colder regions, direct planting even the most winter-hardy vegetables isn’t the best idea as they are unlikely to survive the harsh temperatures. If you are closing your vegetable garden for the winter, now is the time to add organic matter to the soil and cover it in an insulating and moisture-retaining layer of mulch. Zone 1-3: Spinach, lettuce, carrots, beets (start indoors) Zones 4-6: Cress, shallots, spinach, lettuce (best sown in cold frames) Zones 7-12: Cabbage, kale, radishes, spinach, mustard, parsley, leaf lettuce December It’s the hard freezes you have to watch out for in the dead of winter, not an insulating layer of snow. Still, it’s best to plant cool-season vegetables cautiously in the zones with the hardest winters. Zone 1-3: Garlic, kale, spinach, carrots Zones 4-6: Onions, peas, cress, spinach, garlic Zones 7-12: Asparagus, broad beans, spinach, mustard, shallots, onions, cress

Plum blossom (Prunus mume), also commonly known as Chinese plum or Japanese plum, is an ornamental tree that produces attractive blossoms and small stone fruits. Its beauty rivals the cherry blossom tree, and it blooms earlier in the year, making it a welcome sight during winter. Plum blossom trees grow best in full to partial sunlight, and require moist but well-draining soil with an acidic pH level. The leaves, stems, and seeds of the plum blossom are toxic to dogs and cats. Plum Blossom Care Here are the main care requirements for growing plum blossom. Plant in well-draining soil. Choose a spot that receives at least four to six hours of sunlight daily. Water regularly but ensure adequate drainage to avoid oversaturation. Feed with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer during late summer or early fall. Light Like most flowering and fruiting trees, plum blossom trees will do best in a location that receives full sun. However, the tree can grow in partial shade conditions but it should receive at least four hours of sunlight a day. Soil Well-draining soil is the main requirement for the planting site. And while the tree can tolerate a range of soil conditions, loamy, rich soil is ideal. It prefers acidic soil pH levels. Water The plum blossom will need to be watered regularly to ensure the soil remains moist but mature trees exhibit moderate drought tolerance. When deciding how often to water this tree, keep in mind that the soil should not become oversaturated. Good drainage assists in preventing soggy soil conditions. Temperature and Humidity The ideal climate for plum blossom trees is USDA hardiness zones 6 to 9, which can see temperatures dip below 0°F. Trees planted in the coldest regions should be located in a sheltered area to protect against the effects of harsh winter winds. On the other hand, if you grow plum blossom trees in a warmer climate, choose a planting location that provides partial shade during the hottest part of the day to avoid foliage damage from intense sun. Fertilizer To support the production of foliage and fruit, plum blossom trees do best when grown in nutrient-rich soil. If you have subpar soil quality, you should consider supplementing with an organic fertilizer. For conventional fertilizer, a high nitrogen formula can help to support growth, especially during the first few years. Apply fertilizer during the late summer or early fall to support the following season’s growth. As a general rule of thumb, trees in the Prunus genus should produce about 24 inches of new shoot growth every year.2 If your tree is producing more than that, cut back on feeding nitrogen-rich fertilizer. If it's growing more slowly, increase the amount of nitrogen fertilizer you administer. Pruning If you decide to prune the plum blossom tree to maintain a desired shape and eliminate any dead wood, when you prune the tree is critically important if you are hoping to maximize flower production. Plum blossom trees should be pruned immediately after flowering. Since the tree blooms on the previous year’s wood, pruning ahead of flowering will result in the loss of buds and reduced flower production. In most instances, you’ll want to cut back the limbs by two nodes. Alternatively, if fungal disease is a concern, you can prune the plum blossom tree in the summer. While the tree is less susceptible to infection in the pruning cuts, you’ll likely reduce some of the tree’s flowering potential for the following year. Propagating Plum Blossom Trees Cuttings of prunus mume can be notoriously hard to root and to grow a plant that is true to the parent cultivar, you’ll have to graft a softwood cutting onto a rootstock. Because of the challenge of propagation and slow rate of flowering activity (usually at least two years for grafted specimens), it’s usually best to purchase a young tree from a nursery. How to Grow Plum Blossom From Seed Plum blossom trees are known to be challenging to propagate using cuttings but have better results when grown from seed, although it may take at least three years to see flower production. If you’d like to grow plum blossom from seeds—acquired from ripened fruit or a nursery, here’s how to do it: Fill a plastic bag with moistened sphagnum moss and sand (1:1 ratio). Bury the seeds inside the filler material. Stratify the seeds by placing the bag inside a refrigerator for about three months. If the seeds begin to sprout sooner, it’s time to plant them. In the spring, sow the seeds in your desired outdoor garden location. Alternatively, you can start the seeds in greenhouse conditions and then transplant in the spring. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Some of the most common pests that are attracted to plum blossom trees are aphids, spider mites, tent caterpillars, and borers. Scale can also be a problem, especially on the fruit produced by the tree. Diseases that sometimes afflict plum blossom trees are usually fungal. Some of the most common infections are honey fungus, verticillium wilt, silver leaf, and brown rot. In addition, Prunus species are also subject to bacterial canker, which causes sunken, oozing sections of bark and impedes shoot development.3 How to Get Plum Blossom to Bloom Plum blossom trees typically bloom in February and March, but as early as January in more temperate climates. This early blooming activity distinguishes it from the similar (and more well-known) cherry blossom tree. What Do Plum Blossom Flowers Look and Smell Like? Plum blossom flowers have a showy appearance with pink petals, although some cultivars display white or even reddish blossoms. The single or double flowers on a plum blossom tree have a short stem that emerges from the bare branches of the tree, prior to the appearance of foliage. The tree will stay in bloom for several weeks, up to a month. Aside from a splashy show of color, the plum blossom tree is also noted for its sweet, slightly spicy fragrance emanating from the opened flower blossoms. Common Problems With Plum Blossom Plum blossom trees are generally considered to be low-maintenance, but they can be impacted by various pests or environmental conditions. The most common issue relates to imbalances in watering or infection from bacteria and fungi. Leaves Turning Yellow or Brown If the leaves of the plum blossom tree begin to turn yellow, it could be a sign that the tree is experiencing stress from being under-watered. Check the soil and ensure that it’s moist. Water regularly to improve soil moisture but don’t overwater the tree, remembering that the soil shouldn’t become overly saturated and that it can take time for a tree to recover from drought stress. Leaves that turn yellow or develop brown spots can also be a sign of fungal or bacterial infection. A closer inspection of the tree's limbs and roots can reveal other symptoms that might point to verticillium wilt, bacterial canker, brown rot, or silver leaf disease. If you suspect any of these diseases, it would be best to do more research on the specific condition and how to minimize the impact of the disease on your tree and surrounding landscape plants.