Autumn is the best time for planting garlic. But if you missed your fall planting window, you can still plant garlic in spring and harvest an impressive crop of garlic by the end of its growing season. Whether you want to grow hardneck garlic, softneck garlic, or garlic scapes, this guide will teach you how to cold treat spring garlic to get more cloves and introduce you to the best types of garlic for spring plantings. Can You Plant Garlic in Spring? Yes, you can definitely plant garlic in the spring. Although most growers plant garlic in fall, you can plant it in spring as long as you chill or “cold treat” seed garlic before planting. Like daffodils and tulips, garlic needs a period of cold exposure to grow; garlic bulbs won’t produce multiple cloves without it. Garlic that’s planted outdoors in autumn is naturally exposed to the cold during winter. But spring plantings of garlic need to be intentionally chilled or they’ll produce one large garlic clove instead of a full head of cloves. How to Cold Treat Garlic There are two main ways to cold treat garlic before spring planting, and the method you choose will depend on where you live and your climate. Plant garlic as early as possible. If you live in an area where the ground thaws in early spring, you can cold treat garlic by planting it outdoors as soon as the soil is workable. If your soil doesn’t thaw until late spring, plant garlic in weather-proof pots instead, and put those cold-hardy cloves outside while it’s still cold. Chill garlic indoors. Alternatively, you can chill garlic inside by placing seed garlic in perforated bags and chilling them in your fridge for a few weeks before planting. During this process, regularly check the cloves for mold and sprouting and immediately plant any cloves that start to grow. When to Plant Garlic in the Spring Hardneck garlic needs to be chilled for 4 to 8 weeks before planting, while softneck garlic only needs about 3 to 4 weeks of cold treatment. This means that you’ll usually need to start chilling garlic by late winter to early spring and plant garlic outside when the soil is workable. Remember, garlic is cold hardy and you don’t need to worry about it freezing. Types of Garlic Both hardneck and softneck garlic are appropriate for spring or fall plantings. However, there are a few types of garlic that are particularly popular in spring. ‘Early Italian’ softneck garlic is known for its long storage life. It produces up to 15 cloves per bulb and is ideal for braiding. ‘Elephant’ garlic is actually more closely related to leeks than garlic, but its jumbo cloves have a mild, garlic-like taste and excellent crunch. ‘Chesnok Red’ hardneck garlic yields big cloves with purple striping and tasty scapes perfect for pesto. How to Plant Garlic Spring garlic can be planted in in-ground gardens, raised beds, or pots that are at least 6 to 8 inches deep. Just make sure your garlic is planted in a location that receives at least 6 to 8 hours of sun per day and follow these planting tips. Prepare soil. Before planting, amend your soil with compost and organic granular fertilizer. In containers, use 3 parts potting soil mixed with 1 part compost. Separate cloves and plant. Divide garlic cloves carefully, leaving the papery skins on, and plant them pointed ends up about 1 to 2 inches deep. Cloves should be spaced about 4 inches apart to get large bulbs or 2 inches apart for smaller, green garlic. Water well. After planting, water well and add 2 to 3 inches of lightweight mulch to keep weeds down. Continue watering when the top inch of soil feels dry and fertilize every 2 to 3 weeks with an organic fertilizer from the time the garlic cloves sprout until a few weeks before harvest. How to Harvest Garlic Whether you plant garlic in spring or fall, garlic bulbs should be ready to harvest around mid- to late summer, or when the garlic leaves have mostly turned brown. However, you can harvest “green garlic” when the plants are about the size of scallions or harvest garlic scapes when they start to curl. When harvesting, follow these best practices: Stop watering garlic plants several days before harvest and harvest bulbs in dry weather if possible. Use a shovel or gardening fork to gently lift the bulbs from the soil and shake away excess dirt. Cure the bulbs in a warm, dry spot with good airflow for 2 to 4 weeks until the skins are papery. Cut the leaves off hardneck garlic or twist softneck garlic leaves into braids and store your harvest in a warm, dry spot.

Sage is a woody perennial herb that is known for its earthy, herbal, slightly sweet fragrance. Hardy and evergreen or semi-evergreen to zone 4, sage is rich in strong essential oils that give it a musky, but sharp, pungent taste and aroma. Sage is a common ingredient in cooking, and is often tied in bundles or used as incense. Whether you use it to season your holiday turkey or to make your home smell nice, learn how and when you should harvest sage. When to Harvest Sage Most leafy herbs have the richest flavor and aroma prior to flowering. However, common garden sage can be an exception depending on your particular growing conditions. You can potentially harvest before, during, and after flowering, although leaf production will slow considerably once the plant flowers. Typically, sage will bloom spring to mid-summer with two-lipped flowers in shades of purple, but growing conditions play a role in bloom time. Blooms last for several weeks with those on the lower stem drying up as flowers higher up continue to open.1 On occasion, they may rebloom. Try experimenting by harvesting leaves at different times and comparing flavor and quality to learn if flowering changes the taste of your sage leaves. In the first year of growth, harvest lightly taking only a few leaves throughout the season. Once the plant has overwintered and developed a strong root system and bushy growth, leaves can be harvested in greater quantities. The best time of day to harvest is mid-morning after dew has dried and concentrated the essential oils in the leaves. Tip Sage flowers are edible, and different varieties add flavors ranging from fruity to spicy. Flowers are used in teas, and made into jellies, vinegars, and syrups among other culinary applications. How to Harvest Sage Throughout the growing season, harvest sage by the leaf or by removing a stem with a whorl of leaves. Using your thumb and forefinger to pinch leaves works best for harvesting sage. Look for leaves between one and five inches long, solidly green without spots or insect damage. Use your thumb and forefinger to pinch off the leaf with its stem where it joins the main stem. Or, pinch the main stem below the top whorl of leaves. Pinch the stem back to the second top most whorl of leave. How to Prune Sage In late winter, around the end of February, use a small hand pruner or clipper to cut your sage plant back by up to one-third of the total growth, to just above a node. Remove and discard any discolored or damaged leaves and use or dry any viable leaves from the cuttings. Depending on winter conditions in your growing zone, fresh leaves may remain on the plant and are fine to use, but may have some diminished flavor. A small hand pruner or clipper works well for late winter pruning. How to Dry and Store Sage Sage leaves are thick compared to many other leafy green herbs and take some time to dry naturally. Take cuttings with four to five inches of stem attached. Bind two or three stems together with a rubber band or twine and hang them upside down in a dry location, out of direct sunlight with good air circulation. The denser your bundle, the longer it takes leaves to dry with greater potential for mold to develop. Lay individual leaves flat on a paper towel-covered tray for natural drying. Single leaves dry more quickly than bundled stems. You can dry sage in a food dehydrator or low-temperature oven. The best drying temperature is between 95 and 115°F. Place fresh whole leaves in plastic bags or layered in freezer containers, remove air, and freeze for up to a year. The leaves are dry when they crumble easily. However, storing them in whole-leaf form preserves the flavor. As soon as leaves are broken down they begin to lose essential oils, so dry them whole and rub them between your palms or use an herb grinder to add them to food. The leaves must be completely dry before storage to avoid mold and discoloration. Glass containers with tight-fitting lids retain the best flavor and color for the longest time. If you choose to grind the herb before storage it should be used within a year. To store fresh sage, wrap leaves in a paper towel and place them in the refrigerator. Or remove lower leaves and place stems in a small amount of water. Use fresh sage within a week. Tips for Harvesting Sage Harvest lightly the first year. Once the plant is well established you can harvest more leaves. Harvest the leaf with its stem. Stems can be removed before storing. Harvest only the green, new growth stems and avoid cutting into woody portions of the stems during the growing season. Look for leaves between one and five inches in length, blemish free, with solid green/gray color. Leaves can be harvested throughout the growing season but it's better for the plant to take larger harvests prior to flowering. Cut sage plants back by one-third in late winter to promote bushier growth during the next season.

Watermelon is a popular melon that can be grown in any garden, as long as you have adequate space and sunlight. One tricky aspect of growing watermelon is knowing when the mature melons are ripe enough. It's important to pick them at the peak of ripeness because, like other melons, they don't continue to ripen off the vine. We're sharing 10 telltale signs to look out for when your watermelon is all ripe and ready to harvest. Weight If the watermelon feels dense and heavy for its size, this can be a good indicator of ripeness. The heavier the melon, the more juice has formed inside. But if you're not sure how heavy a watermelon should be, find two melons of approximately the same size and weigh both in your hands. You can practice this technique in the grocery store, too, to get a feel for how dense and heavy a ripe melon should feel. The Stem Is Mostly Brown If the watermelon stem has turned brown or is more brown than green in color, this is also a potential sign of ripeness. This indicates more energy from the vine has gone into the melon. Dried Out Tendrils The tendril is the curly section of the stem opposite where the watermelon is attached to the vine. Once the tendril turns brown and dry, the watermelon is ready to harvest The Ground Spot Is Yellow The ground spot (also sometimes called the "field spot" or the "belly spot") is usually a small round area on the watermelon where it has been lying in contact with the ground. Once this spot turns yellow, it's a sign the melon has ripened while still on the vine. Don't pick the melon if this spot is still white. If your watermelon doesn't have a ground spot, use some of the other signs to determine its ripeness. Note: this method won't work for miniature watermelons that are grown vertically on a fence or trellis. Smooth But Dull Skin Surface The surface of the watermelon skin should be dull and not shiny. A shiny rind or skin is still too immature to be harvested. The skin should also be free of cuts or bruises. Blossom End Firmness The blossom end of the watermelon is the one opposite the stem. Press gently on this spot; if it's mushy, the melon is overripe. If it's solid, the melon is underripe. If it presses in slightly, the melon is ripe for harvest. Smell A ripe watermelon will have a sweet but not overpowering smell when you sniff the blossom end. If the smell is overly sweet, rich, or cloying, the melon may be overripe. Vibrant Color Your watermelon may have any number of color characteristics depending on the variety; some melons are solid color and some have stripes. Look for a photo online of the variety to get a sense of how deeply colored a ripe one is (often a seed packet will have a photo of a ripe melon also). Wait until the melon reaches a vibrant color before harvesting. Even a watermelon that tends to be a paler green will reach a richer color as it gets ripe, so this is a sign along with the others listed to help you determine ripeness. Uniformity of Shape Different varieties of watermelon have different shapes: some are round, while some or more oval. You want to aim for a uniform shape with no unusual lumps or flat spots. Hollow Interior Sound Thump gently on the surface of the watermelon with your knuckles. A hollow, crisp, and resonating sound is a sign the watermelon is ripe. You will also feel a slight vibration. If the sound is dull and not resonant, the melon is not ready for harvest yet. How to Harvest When you've determined your watermelon is ripe enough to harvest, follow these techniques to do it properly. Cut It Off Cut the melon from the vine with a sharp knife or pruning shears. The watermelon may not pull loose on its own. Clean It Down Gently clean the melon with a soft cloth and mildly soapy water and rinse thoroughly. This is to remove any potentially harmful bacteria (that might be in the soil or left behind by garden wildlife) that might transfer from the skin into the fruit when you carve into it. Store Properly Store your watermelon at a temperature of between 50-60F. If stored at temperatures above 75F, the shelf life is only about 5 days. It's best to eat your watermelon as soon as possible after picking it. If you have any leftover cut portions, place them in the refrigerator.

Mint plants (Mentha spp.) are known for growing quickly and abundantly. While mint is beloved for its aromatic leaves, which can be used for cooking, aromatherapy, soaps, and more, the popular and fragrant perennial herb is vigorous and notoriously invasive if not planted and cared for properly. When planted directly in the ground, mint can spread easily via underground rhizomes. Once it's planted, mint can be very difficult to get rid of entirely. The best way to control mint's spread and keep it growing healthy is to grow it in a container and practice preventative maintenance such as selective harvesting and pruning. If you're growing mint in your garden, it's important to keep the plants in check by pruning and harvesting them regularly. Follow the tips below to learn how and when to harvest mint for peak flavor and health. When to Harvest Mint You can harvest mint leaves at any point of the plant's life, but the optimal time is once the mint plant has multiple stems that are at least 6 to 8 inches long. If you are growing a mint plant from seed, this timing should be about two months after sowing, and even less time if you planted a more developed seedling that you purchased from a plant nursery or farmers' market. The leaves and stems of a mint plant should be harvested before the plant goes to flower, usually right before summer. This is when the minty flavor will be at its peak; the leaves tend to take on a bitter flavor once the plant begins to flower. Your mint harvest will also be more aromatic and flavorful if you pick the mint stems and leaves in the morning, before the dew has a change to evaporate in the summer sun. As a rule of thumb, do not harvest more than a third of the mint plant at a time. Removing too much can significantly weaken the plant and impact its future growth. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Why Mint Needs to Be Cut If left to its own devices, mint will easily and quickly take over your yard or garden (and even your neighbor's yard and garden). When you cut back mint, it can help prevent this rapid spread. Pruning mint regularly also helps keep a mint plant healthy—encouraging it to grow full and bushy—and prevent it from flowering and going to seed. When growing mint in your garden, it's important to cut vertical shoots as well as horizontally growing stolons, also known as a runner. If you don't cut both parts of the mint plant, it will quickly crowd out other plants in your garden bed. Once a mint plant starts to bolt, the plant's energy starts going towards producing blooms and seeds. Cutting the flowers off can prevent the plant from shifting into reproductive mode, instead encouraging more leaf growth and reducing the risk of it spreading to areas where it's unwanted. How to Harvest Mint Once established, mint plants can be harvested at any time. To start, find a pair of sharp pruning shears or scissors. Wipe them down with an alcohol wipe to ensure they are clean and free of disease. Using sharp, clean pruning shears, snip a mint stem right above a leaf node. Always cut off whole stems rather than individual leaves, as this will encourage a bushier growth habit. Rinse and dry the mint. Wrap it in a damp paper towel and store in a plastic bag in the fridge. To air-dry your harvested mint, tie the mint sprigs and hang upside down to dry in a cool, dry place. Tip The methods you use to harvest mint plants matters. To encourage full, bushy growth in your mint plant, make sure you are cutting back the stems just above where two leaves join the stem, called a node. If you just pluck away one mint leaf at a time, this will weaken the plant. By cutting above a node, you will encourage new shoots to grow faster and fuller. How to Prune Mint for Flowering Generally, mint plants are grown for their aromatic leaves. However, if you want to encourage your mint plant to flower, sunlight is key, as it stimulates mint flowering. To get mint plants to flower, you want to provide the plant with their desired conditions. In addition to sunlight, mint prefers temperatures between 65°F–70°F and soil that is kept moist. If you care for your mint plant properly, it will continue to produce new shoots and flowers through autumn. Most mint varieties have two blooming periods: early summer and late summer. The first flowering period typically takes place from June to July. If you cut back those flowers, the plant will undergo a second flowering period from August to September.