Yellowing green bean leaves are not always cause for concern—they can sometimes be a natural sign of aging in bean plants. But if you see leaves on green beans turning yellow mid-season, or if your plants are becoming less productive, it could be due to fungal, bacterial, or environmental stressors. Here are 6 common reasons why bean leaves turn yellow, plus simple, organic solutions to help your plants recover. Watering Stress Underwatering and overwatering can cause yellowing bean leaves, making it difficult to know exactly what’s going on with your plants. The best way to determine if your plants receive too much or too little water is to insert your finger into the soil. If the soil feels soggy and you haven’t watered recently, your plants are likely overwatered and root rot may be settling in. How to Fix Beans should receive about 1 inch of water per week. If you often forget to water, apply a layer of mulch around the base of your plants to keep the soil from drying out too quickly, and consider installing an automated drip irrigation system. If your plants are overwatered, adjust your watering schedule, scrape the mulch away from around your plant, and allow the soil to dry out before watering again. Lighting Issues Beans need at least 8 hours of direct light daily to grow. In low-light conditions, beans may develop yellowing leaves, but too much bright light can cause yellowing leaves, too. How to Fix Beans are difficult to transplant once established, but you can avoid lighting stress by choosing a growing spot that receives 8 to 10 hours of daily light. Nutrient Deficiencies Although beans fix nitrogen, they can still suffer from nutritional deficiencies in poor soil. Nutrient deficiencies produce different symptoms depending on what nutrients are missing; however, most deficiencies result in stunted plant growth and yellowing leaves with visible, green veins. How to Fix Testing your soil every few years and adding an annual application of compost is the best way to avoid plant nutrient deficiencies. You may also want to fertilize beans with an all-purpose fertilizer, adjust the pH of alkaline soils, and apply a legume inoculant to bean seeds before planting. Inoculants boost nitrogen fixation and make it easier for beans to absorb nutrients. Plant Diseases Diseases caused by bacteria, fungi, and viruses can produce yellowing bean leaves and other symptoms. Bacterial blight usually produces brown leaf spots with yellow halos. Bean mosaic virus may develop cupped or puckered leaves with a mottled yellow mosaic pattern. Fungal issues, like white mold and bean rust, may also produce leaf spots and yellow lesions, especially in overcrowded gardens. How to Fix Purchasing disease-resistant seeds from reliable seed companies can keep some plant diseases out of your garden. However, you can also reduce diseases by rotating crops, watering beans at the soil line, weeding regularly, following proper spacing guidelines, and destroying infested plant material at the end of the season. Pests While pests can cause yellowing leaves through the spread of plant diseases, sap-sucking pests may also directly cause yellowing leaves by feeding on plant sap. Pest damage typically presents as tiny dots or speckles on affected leaves, but pests may also skeletonize or chew holes in bean leaves. How to Fix Aphids, thrips, bean beetles, and spider mites are some of the most common bean pests, but these pests can be controlled with handpicking, organic soap sprays, and companion planting. Strongly scented herbs and flowers, like marigolds and nasturtiums, are especially good companion plants for natural pest control. Natural Processes While pests, diseases, and environmental stresses can cause bean leaves to yellow, aging bean plants may also develop yellowing leaves at the end of the growing season. Yellowing leaves caused by natural aging usually occur towards the base of the plant, and leaf yellowing may be exacerbated by cool temperatures. How to Fix Yellowing leaves that occur late in the growing season are a part of the natural aging process of bean plants and they signal that bean plants are reaching the end of their life. There is no need to address yellowing leaves caused by natural aging; however, you may be able to extend your bean growing season a little longer by installing season extension products, like row covers. 3 Additional Tips to Grow Great Green Beans If you want your bean plants to be even more productive, try out these quick and easy bean care tips! Trellising. Bush-type beans don’t need trellises, but pole and vining beans grow better with support. Cattle panel trellises are one of the best solutions if you want to grow lots of beans together, but you can also make DIY bean supports with bamboo poles or upcycled tomato cages. Spacing. To avoid fungal issues and other plant diseases, space bean plants at least 6 inches apart in rows that are at least 18 to 24 inches from each other. Harvesting. Regularly harvesting beans will make plants more productive, but don’t tug on bean pods when you harvest. Instead, pinch or cut bean pods off the plant so you don’t accidentally damage tender stems.

When you’re growing a peach tree in your backyard, you need to offer the proper care and conditions to harvest a bountiful crop of delicious, sweet fruit. If you notice your peach tree leaves turning yellow, this can be an early sign of a problem. Understanding some of the common causes of this discoloration can help you take steps to nurse your tree back to health. Natural Yellowing Before you panic, don’t forget that deciduous trees shed their leaves every fall. When you see the leaves on your peach tree turning from green to yellow at this time of year, it’s likely just their natural fall foliage color. How to Fix Dropping deciduous leaves isn’t something you can fix. Peach trees do this to conserve energy and moisture during cold, dry winters before fresh green leaves develop again in the spring. Lack of Light Peach trees are sun lovers. Planting this species too close to a shade-making building or taller tree could result in yellowing leaves. How to Fix Transplant or plant your peach tree in a location that receives around 8 hours of full sun daily. Underwatering You will spot yellowing foliage if your peach tree isn’t getting enough moisture. Following this, the leaves will turn brown and dry before dropping. If your peach tree goes without adequate water for long enough, it can result in drought stress. This causes the tree's roots to shrivel and become damaged or die. When the roots can’t provide adequate water, one of the first places you see the effects is in the tree’s leaves. How to Fix Water needs vary depending on the size of your peach tree and temperatures. However, providing around one inch of water per week is a good guideline for established trees. Water slowly and deeply—if you blast it with a powerful hose, it might run off rather than soak into the soil. Young saplings might need watering as much as every two to three days. Avoid watering only at the base of the tree's trunk. Instead, water around the drip line (the edge of the tree’s canopy where rain naturally falls) as the roots expand outwards. Covering the soil around the tree with a 3—to 4-inch layer of mulch helps retain moisture, especially during scorching summers. This means you might not have to water as often. Overwatering While you don’t want your peach tree roots to be dry for too long when temperatures rise, stone fruit trees are prone to root rot if you overwater and the ground remains soggy, especially in sites with heavy soils.1 One of the early signs of this disease is fewer leaves on your peach tree, and the ones that develop will be small and yellow. How to Fix Avoid letting your peach tree roots stand in saturated soils for prolonged periods. Test the soil moisture levels using a long screwdriver or metal rod, and water only once the soil around the tree roots is dry. If the soil doesn’t have good drainage, consider adding organic matter, such as compost or grass clippings to help lower compaction and increase water infiltration. Nutrient Deficiency If the soil your peach tree is growing in lacks sufficient iron or manganese or is unable to absorb them effectively, this can reduce the production of chlorophyll (the green pigment in leaves that helps plant’s create food through photosynthesis). This common cause of yellowing leaves is frequently seen when soils have high alkaline pH levels, which make it difficult for the trees to absorb these essential nutrients. How to Fix Soil testing can help you determine whether your peach tree's soil requires more manganese or iron. Ferrous and manganese sulfate foliage sprays offer a temporary greening effect, and trunk implant capsules and chelating agent soil additives can last up to two years. Shothole Fungal Disease Peach trees can be prone to shothole fungal disease (Coryneum blight). The first signs are small red spots with yellow margins that develop into holes in the leaves. How to Fix Avoid overhead watering, prune your peach tree to remove infected branches, and, for more serious cases, apply a copper fungicide spray in the fall as the leaves begin to drop and again once the tree is dormant in winter. Peach Leaf Curl Peach leaf curl (Taphrina deformans) is another leaf-yellowing fungal disease that peach trees are prone to. It can also cause puckering, thickening, stunting, and eventual dropping of infected foliage. The disease tends to appear in the cool, wet springtime. How to Fix Unfortunately, once the signs of this disease are visible, it’s not possible to control it. However, you can apply a fungicide (chlorothalonil or copper fungicide) during the tree’s dormant period in late fall after the leaves have fallen (and before new buds begin to swell) to control the problem for the following season’s growth. Pest Infestation If you have a big enough infestation of leaf-eating pests, such as peach tree borers, aphids or mites, it can cause damage that makes it difficult for nutrients to be absorbed, resulting in yellowing of the leaves. How to Fix Vigilance and quick action before infestations get out of control is your best line of defense. Often, it’s possible to get rid of aphids or similar pests with a strong jet of water. Alternatively, apply a thorough coating of an insecticidal soap or organic insecticide, such as neem oil.

Depending on the variety, marigolds can be both annuals and perennials. Choose the right type based on your region. Marigolds can be grown indoors before the last frost or directly sown after the danger of frost has passed outdoors. For thriving marigolds, place them under full sun, water them daily, trim leggy stems, and remove fading flowers. Marigolds (Tagetes spp.) are a popular flower for garden beds, and come in a wide variety of cultivars with a range of sunny colors. Many vegetable growers also plant them near tomatoes for their pest-deterring properties. Though most often grown or purchased as annuals, it's a little-known fact that some less common marigold varieties are perennial. Below, we detail the various marigold types you should know before growing them in your garden. Are Marigolds Perennials or Annuals? The most commonly planted marigolds are annuals, but there are some cultivars that are perennial shrubs native to Mexico. The majority of marigolds sold by plant nurseries or seed purveyors are either French marigolds or African marigolds. Sometimes these varieties will reseed themselves in the garden, creating the illusion that they are perennial, but any plants that come up in spring are new plants, not old ones. There are also pot marigolds (Calendula) which are an annual flower commonly grown from seed. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Popular Types of Marigolds Many gardeners choose marigolds for their colors or size, but with so many varieties available, it can be helpful to know their origins and botanical characteristics. Annual Marigolds Annual marigolds come in a very wide array of cultivars with a wide range of colors, sizes, and textures. There are three fairly common varieties. French marigolds (Targetes patula) : These are compact marigolds, growing up to 12 inches tall, with frilly, curved edges to their petals. This variety comes in a range of colors and is more likely to produce deeper red-orange colors. African marigolds (Tagetes erecta) : These marigolds can grow up to two feet tall and produce rounded, powder-puff shaped flowers with many petals. The color range includes many pale yellow and creamy white cultivars, as well as lime green and a range of oranges. The popular 'Crackerjack' marigolds are African marigolds. Signet marigolds (Tagetes tenuifolia): This variety has petite single-petaled flowers, though different cultivars may vary in height, from eight inches to two feet tall. These flowers have a string fragrance and are considered the best vegetable garden companions for pest deterrence. Perennial Marigolds Though they're not commonly sold in colder zones, these heat-loving perennial marigolds are native shrubs that grow well in warmer climates. Mexican mint marigold (Tagetes lucida): Also known as Mexican tarragon, this plant has culinary and medicinal uses. The taste and scent are similar to French tarragon, but this plant is easier to grow in warmer climates. This is the smallest of the perennial marigolds, reaching 1-3 feet tall. Hardy in USDA Zones 7-10. Mountain marigold (Tagetes palmeri): This semi-evergreen shrub has woody stems, often grows at altitude, and is between 3-5 feet tall and up to 6 feet wide. It has aromatic foliage and small, golden yellow flowers that attract pollinators. Mexican marigold (Tagetes lemmonii): This herby shrub has delicate, lacy foliage and is covered with small, yellow daisy-like flowers. Hardy in USDA Zones 8-11. How to Plant Marigold Seeds Marigolds are very easy to grow from seed and can be started indoors before the last frost or direct sown after danger of frost has passed. Plant seeds in well-draining potting soil or in garden beds. If planting outdoors, choose a sunny location, and rake the soil first to loosen the surface. The seeds should be planted just on the surface of the soil and patted down lightly. Water Daily. Water lightly with a mist sprayer until seedlings appear. Keep the soil moist but not wet. Once seedlings are an inch tall, water daily. Transplant seedlings outdoors. If growing indoors, transplant seedlings outside once the danger of frost is past. Thin seedlings as needed. Seedlings can be transplanted or thinned once they are at least two inches tall. Tips for Caring for Marigolds Marigolds are easy to care for and will bloom all season long. Grow in full sun. Marigolds bloom best in full sun, so make sure to plant or relocate them in an ideal location. Water regularly. Though they like sun and heat, marigolds thrive best with daily watering. Deadhead spent flowers. Removing flowers as they fade prompts more buds to form. Trim back the stems as needed. If your marigolds start to get "leggy," trim the stems back lightly to shape the plants. Stake taller plants if needed. Some taller varieties of African marigold might need some staking for support. Remove plants before late autumn. This will help prevent them from going to seed, but if you do want to collect seeds, they will appear as the last blooms have dried up.

Peach-picking season extends from June to August, and they are ready to harvest during that period when their skins turn yellowish-red—that's how you know they're perfectly ripe. If you want to grow the tastiest peaches, these quick and easy tips will help you determine exactly when to pick peaches for sweet and juicy fruit every time. When to Pick Peaches Some varieties of peach trees fruit earlier than others, but most peaches are harvested from late June through August. That said, various factors can influence when peach trees fruit—chilly spring weather, drought, and other environmental conditions can delay peach harvesting season. Fresh peaches taste best when they mature outdoors on the tree, but harvesting can be a bit of a balancing act. If you pick peaches too early, you’ll have hard, flavorless fruit. But if you pick peaches too late, your harvest may turn mushy or get gobbled up by birds. Rather than relying on the calendar date, it’s usually best to pick peaches when the fruit displays particular signs of ripeness. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! 5 Signs Your Peaches Are Ripe If you want to time your peach harvest for perfectly ripe fruit, watch for these signs: Color. Ripe peaches should have uniformly, golden yellow skins, which may display tinges of red, orange, or pink. If the peaches still have green coloration, they aren’t ready yet. Scent. Underripe peaches don’t emit much scent, while fully ripened fruit can be incredibly fragrant. In fact, a peach tree laden with ripe peaches can perfume a small garden with a sugary sweet fragrance. Shape. Peaches become rounder as they ripen, while underripe peaches look like green olives with a slightly elongated shape. Feel. If you harvest a peach and it still feels firm or crunches when you bite into it, it’s not ripe. Fully ripened peaches should be slightly soft and give a little when you gently press into their skins. Taste. Of course, you can also test whether or not peaches are ready to pick by trying a taste of a peach or two. When the fruit is as sweet and juicy as you like, it’s time to harvest. How to Pick Peaches Peaches ripen at approximately the same time, although fruit towards the exterior of the tree and the tips of the tree branches typically ripens a little earlier than fruit growing at the center of the plant. When your peaches are ready to harvest: Grasp a peach in one hand and the supporting branch in the other hand. Give the peach a little twist with your fingers. If the peach is fully ripe, it should detach easily from the tree. After harvesting, gently place peaches in a bucket, basket, or harvesting apron and handle them gently to prevent bruised skin. It’s best to avoid washing peaches until you’re just about to use them as excess moisture can speed up decay. To maintain freshness, keep ripe peaches in the fridge, or freeze, dehydrate, or can them for even longer storage. What to Do If You Pick Peaches Too Early While it’s best to allow peaches to ripen on the tree, if you happen to harvest peaches a little early, don’t worry. Unlike citrus fruits and cherries, peaches can continue to ripen after harvesting. To ripen peaches: Place your peach harvest on your countertop and allow it to ripen out of direct sun for a few days at room temperature. Or, place the peaches in a brown paper bag to help them ripen even faster.