Autumn is the best time for planting garlic. But if you missed your fall planting window, you can still plant garlic in spring and harvest an impressive crop of garlic by the end of its growing season. Whether you want to grow hardneck garlic, softneck garlic, or garlic scapes, this guide will teach you how to cold treat spring garlic to get more cloves and introduce you to the best types of garlic for spring plantings. Can You Plant Garlic in Spring? Yes, you can definitely plant garlic in the spring. Although most growers plant garlic in fall, you can plant it in spring as long as you chill or “cold treat” seed garlic before planting. Like daffodils and tulips, garlic needs a period of cold exposure to grow; garlic bulbs won’t produce multiple cloves without it. Garlic that’s planted outdoors in autumn is naturally exposed to the cold during winter. But spring plantings of garlic need to be intentionally chilled or they’ll produce one large garlic clove instead of a full head of cloves. How to Cold Treat Garlic There are two main ways to cold treat garlic before spring planting, and the method you choose will depend on where you live and your climate. Plant garlic as early as possible. If you live in an area where the ground thaws in early spring, you can cold treat garlic by planting it outdoors as soon as the soil is workable. If your soil doesn’t thaw until late spring, plant garlic in weather-proof pots instead, and put those cold-hardy cloves outside while it’s still cold. Chill garlic indoors. Alternatively, you can chill garlic inside by placing seed garlic in perforated bags and chilling them in your fridge for a few weeks before planting. During this process, regularly check the cloves for mold and sprouting and immediately plant any cloves that start to grow. When to Plant Garlic in the Spring Hardneck garlic needs to be chilled for 4 to 8 weeks before planting, while softneck garlic only needs about 3 to 4 weeks of cold treatment. This means that you’ll usually need to start chilling garlic by late winter to early spring and plant garlic outside when the soil is workable. Remember, garlic is cold hardy and you don’t need to worry about it freezing. Types of Garlic Both hardneck and softneck garlic are appropriate for spring or fall plantings. However, there are a few types of garlic that are particularly popular in spring. ‘Early Italian’ softneck garlic is known for its long storage life. It produces up to 15 cloves per bulb and is ideal for braiding. ‘Elephant’ garlic is actually more closely related to leeks than garlic, but its jumbo cloves have a mild, garlic-like taste and excellent crunch. ‘Chesnok Red’ hardneck garlic yields big cloves with purple striping and tasty scapes perfect for pesto. How to Plant Garlic Spring garlic can be planted in in-ground gardens, raised beds, or pots that are at least 6 to 8 inches deep. Just make sure your garlic is planted in a location that receives at least 6 to 8 hours of sun per day and follow these planting tips. Prepare soil. Before planting, amend your soil with compost and organic granular fertilizer. In containers, use 3 parts potting soil mixed with 1 part compost. Separate cloves and plant. Divide garlic cloves carefully, leaving the papery skins on, and plant them pointed ends up about 1 to 2 inches deep. Cloves should be spaced about 4 inches apart to get large bulbs or 2 inches apart for smaller, green garlic. Water well. After planting, water well and add 2 to 3 inches of lightweight mulch to keep weeds down. Continue watering when the top inch of soil feels dry and fertilize every 2 to 3 weeks with an organic fertilizer from the time the garlic cloves sprout until a few weeks before harvest. How to Harvest Garlic Whether you plant garlic in spring or fall, garlic bulbs should be ready to harvest around mid- to late summer, or when the garlic leaves have mostly turned brown. However, you can harvest “green garlic” when the plants are about the size of scallions or harvest garlic scapes when they start to curl. When harvesting, follow these best practices: Stop watering garlic plants several days before harvest and harvest bulbs in dry weather if possible. Use a shovel or gardening fork to gently lift the bulbs from the soil and shake away excess dirt. Cure the bulbs in a warm, dry spot with good airflow for 2 to 4 weeks until the skins are papery. Cut the leaves off hardneck garlic or twist softneck garlic leaves into braids and store your harvest in a warm, dry spot.

Rhubarb is the most flavorful when the leaf stalks are young and tender, about 7 to 14 inches long, soon after the leaf unfurls—this is the best time to harvest it. Usually, this happens between May and July when growing this as a spring crop. To prevent damaging the perennial plant and diminishing next year's harvest, grasp each leafstalk near the base and pull it slightly to one side. Using a knife to cut the stems can leave an entry point for crown rot diseases. Follow our guidelines for a bountiful rhubarb harvest. When to Harvest Rhubarb Rhubarb is a cool-season, hardy perennial that goes dormant in the winter with leaf stalks that emerge in early spring. The best time to harvest the pink or red leaf stalks with a unique tart and tangy flavor is when they are young and tender. As the stalks grow large, the texture becomes more stringy. As a rule of thumb, the deeper the red color, the more flavorful the stalks will be. Depending on the rhubarb variety, the leaf stalks may be only 12 inches long, or as long as two feet. Harvest season can begin as early as mid-March in warmer growing zones and continue through the end of June in cooler climates. How to Harvest Rhubarb When the leaf stalks have grown to their expected height and turned pink or red, it's time to harvest them. Harvest each stalk individually by grasping the stalk firmly near the base of the plant and pulling it to one side with a quick twist. The stalk will be released from the plant. Use a knife or garden shears to remove the leaves. Place the stalks in one basket and the leaves in another. While the leaves should not be eaten, they can be safely added to the compost pile. Do not use a knife or garden shears to cut the stalks from the plant1, as the knife can transplant diseases or pests from plant to plant. The open wound left by cutting the stalk can also invite diseases like crown rot into the plant. Have a couple of baskets or buckets on hand when harvesting rhubarb. The leaves should be trimmed from the stalk as soon as possible, as leaving them on will speed up the wilting of the stalks. How to Store Harvested Rhubarb If you plan to use the harvested rhubarb with a couple of hours, wash away any garden soil with fresh water and trim the ends. Cut into smaller pieces to stew, poach, roast, or purée. If you don't plan to use it immediately, the freshly harvested stalks can be kept in the refrigerator, unwashed, and wrapped tightly in plastic, for up to three weeks. Rhubarb can also be canned or frozen for use in future recipes. How to Know When Rhubarb Is Done Producing You will notice that the rhubarb plant will stop or slow down production of new growth as the weather warms. Stop removing leaf stalks when this happens to keep the plant healthy and vigorous. Allow the plant to keep all the remaining stalks and leaves to build energy reserves for next year. If the plant bolts or a seed stalk emerges from the plant, cut it off. If the plant flowers and sets seed, the harvest for next year will be much smaller.

If you love a low-acid, sweet tomato, then Sungold is a perfect choice. A golden yellow cherry tomato, Sungold, Lycopersicon esculentum 'Sungold', is a hybrid indeterminate tomato that matures in 55 to 65 days and produces fruit in clusters throughout the growing season. You'll need stakes or cages because the vines can grow up to 10 feet.1 While the fruit is delicious, the vines and leaves are toxic to humans2 and pets3 if consumed. How to Plant Sungold Tomatoes When to Plant Sungold tomatoes should be planted in the spring after all threat of frost has passed. If you are starting plants from seed, they should be started indoors about four weeks before your area's last projected frost date and then planted outside when seedlings are at least 6-inches tall. Selecting a Planting Site Sungold tomatoes require a site with full sun and loamy, nutrient-rich soil with good drainage. If planting in a garden, practice crop rotation to prevent disease spread and nutrient depletion of the soil from last year's crops. Sungold tomatoes also thrive in containers placed in a sunny spot. Spacing, Depth, and Support Sungold tomatoes produce long vines and clusters of fruit. To control them and keep the fruit off the ground. they need a support structure for the vines, such as a tomato cage. Plants should be spaced at least four feet apart in the garden to ensure good air circulation and room for the support structure. Seedlings should be planted in a hole about twice the size of their root ball and placed into the ground at the same level as they grew in their container. If the seedling was grown in a peat pot, be sure the entire pot is buried below the soil surface because an exposed peat pot wicks moisture from the soil. Sungold Tomato Plant Care Light Sungold tomatoes need full sun for six to eight hours per day. Less light results in slower growth and less fruit. Soil Slightly acidic, 6.0-6.8 pH, soil in the garden helps Sungold tomatoes thrive and bear lots of fruit. The soil should be well-drained, loamy, and nutrient-rich. A soil test is the best way to determine the nutrient level in your soil and its pH. If growing Sungold tomatoes in containers, use organic potting soil not soil dug directly from the garden. It is too heavy for container grown plants. Water All tomatoes must be watered deeply and regularly, especially those planted in containers. Provide 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water per week. Poke your finger into the soil and if it is dry at 2 inches deep, provide water. The soil should not be allowed to dry out because keeping the soil evenly moist helps prevent blossom end rot. Water at the root level to prevent the spread of tomato diseases. Avoid overwatering which can lead to root rot and splitting tomatoes. Add mulch once plants are established to help retain moisture. Temperature and Humidity For optimum growth, do not plant Sungold tomatoes until soil temperature has reached at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Harden off seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions before planting them in the garden. Humidity isn't an issue for tomatoes unless it is excessive. Too much humid weather causes wet foliage for extended periods and creates a climate for fungal diseases. Fertilizer Unless a soil test has other recommendations, prepare garden soil by working in 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet of a complete fertilizer (10-10-10 NPK). A high-nitrogen fertilizer is not recommended; it can result in luxuriant foliage but delayed flowering and fruiting. Give new plants a head start by using a diluted liquid starter fertilizer high in phosphorus for strong root development. For container-grown Sungolds, fertilize regularly, at least once a month. Use a water-soluble application at half-strength to provide a constant source of nutrients. Pollination Sungold tomatoes self-pollinate and attract bees and other pollinators to the garden. Types of Sungold Tomatoes A similar tomato is SunSugar. The fruits are golden yellow, sweeter, and with a slightly thicker skin t less prone to cracking. Harvesting Sungold Tomatoes Although Sungold tomatoes grow in clusters of 10 to 20 fruits, it is best to harvest each cherry tomato separately. If picked while they are bright yellow, the fruit will be firm and tart. If allowed to ripen to a deep golden color, they will be soft, sweet, and easy to remove from the vine. Sungolds never turn red, no matter how long they stay on the vine. If cared for correctly, the plant will continue to produce fruit until the first frost in the fall. How to Grow Sungold Tomatoes in Pots If you don't have space for a garden, Sungold tomatoes can be easily grown in pots. Choose a large pot, around 5-gallons, with good drainage holes. Add a treellis or tomato cage while the seedlings are young to provide support for the vines. Use good potting soil and water regularly (one to two gallons of water per day) because the container will dry out quickly. Other than transferring seedlings to the garden or a large container, Sungold tomatoes should not be repotted once they are established. Pruning Sungold Tomatoes Regular pruning helps Sungold tomatoes produce more fruit than foliage. Use garden snips to remove suckers, or small stems, growing from the main stem next to a leaf cluster. These suckers tend to produce foliage but not fruit. Without them, the plant can focus energy on the fruit-bearing stems. Prune any stems touching the ground to prevent disease. Propagating Sungold Tomatoes You can clone Sungold tomatoes from cuttings. You need a small pot with soilless potting mix and good drainage and sterile pruners. Once the parent plant is healthy and actively growing follow these steps: Find a 6- to 8-inch sucker coming off the main stem with no buds or flowers on it and remove it with the pruner. Strip the leaves on the lower half of the cutting. Plant the cutting in a small container with moistened soilless potting mix. Place the container in bright, indirect sunlight. Keep the growing medium moist but not soggy. Roots should develop in a week or two. If you feel resistance when you gently tug on the cutting, you’ll know it has roots. It can then be transplanted into the garden. How to Grow Sungold Tomatoes from Seed About six weeks before the last predicted frost, start your Sungold tomato seeds indoors. You need seed starting trays and mix, heating mat, plastic dome or covering, and small pots with drainage holes. Fill trays with seed starting medium and moisten the medium until it is damp but not soaked. With a pointed stick, make a hole about 1/8th of an inch deep and place one seed in each one of the seed tray's cells. Place the tray on top of the heating mat in front of a sunny window and cover the tray. Check daily to ensure the soil remains moist, misting with a spray bottle as needed. The seeds should germinate in 5 to 10 days. Keep covered until the plants touch the cover, at which point remove the cover. When plants are around 5 to 6 inches tall, transplant them into individual pots and continue to water until transplanted. When outdoor temperatures reach a steady 50° Fahrenheit at night, you can take the plants outdoors to allow them to harden up before planting. After 10 days, you can transplant the Sungold tomato plants into the garden. Overwintering Sungold tomatoes are annuals that complete their life cycle in one growing season and do not overwinter. Harvest the last tomatoes before the first frost and discard vines. Common Pest and Plant Diseases Sungold tomatoes are resistant to Verticillium wilt (V), fusarium (F), and tobacco mosaic virus (TMV). However, they can be affected and are subject to pests like tomato hornworms. Help prevent problems by providing ample growing space, using a support structure to keep them off the ground, and watering at the roots only. Aphids are a common problem with tomatoes. While the plants can tolerate a number of them without loss, infestations can pose a larger problem. Aphids are tiny bugs that come in colors red, green, white, or black. Signs of an aphid infestation include curled and yellow leaves as well as reduced tomato production. You can control aphids with natural methods such as spraying with water and companion planting (marigolds, onion, and garlic as good choices). If these don't work, you can also opt to use insecticidal sprays.

One of the most powerful garden scents of spring comes from hyacinth flowers (Hyacinthus orientalis) in bloom. Even at a distance, you'll notice these flowers' intense fragrance and the spikes of bright tubular flowers emerging from strap-shaped leaves. Introduced to Europe during the 16th century, hyacinth's popularity sparked Dutch bulb growers to breed more than 2,000 cultivars by the 18th century, and today there are about 60 to choose from in commercial cultivation. Modern hyacinths are some of the easiest-to-grow perennial spring bulbs. Hyacinths will return every year, though their flowers will diminish in vigor after a few seasons. They are best planted in the fall and have a moderate growth rate. Hyacinths can grow outdoors in the ground or pots, as well as indoors in a bulb vase filled with water. Keep them out of the reach of kids and critters as the bulbs are toxic to humans and pets. Hyacinth Care Here are the main care requirements for growing hyacinth: Plant in a slightly acidic to neutral soil in full sun to partial shade. Water well after the bulbs are planted, but allow the ground to dry before the next watering. Bulbs can be fertilized upon planting. Grow hyacinth in large groups for the strongest and farthest-reaching scent. Planting Most varieties of hyacinth bulbs are fairly large. For spring garden blooms, plant hyacinth bulbs in the fall six to eight weeks before the first frost (between October and December). They should be placed root end down (widest side down) about 4 to 6 inches deep. Give them some room to spread out by spacing them about 3 to 6 inches apart. Cover with soil, and water well. Light Hyacinths like full sun to partial shade. Aim to give the plants at least six to eight hours of sunlight a day. As with all spring bulbs, hyacinths sprout, bloom, and start to fade before deciduous trees fully leaf out, so you don't have to worry about too much shade from nearby trees. Soil Hyacinth bulbs are not particular about soil pH, but they prefer a slightly acidic to neutral soil. They also do best in soil that is loose and well-drained; they will not tolerate wet soils. Rich soil can lead to floppy stalks, so go easy on the organic matter when preparing or amending the soil. Water Water the ground well after you plant the bulbs. Continue watering into winter if there is no regular rain, but allow the ground to dry out between watering. If the bulbs sit in cool, wet soil, they will eventually rot. Check the ground by sticking your finger in, and water only when it's totally dry. Usually, this is once or twice a week, depending on your climate. Generally speaking, about 1/2 inch of water per week—combined irrigation and rainfall—will be sufficient for hyacinths. But this depends on how well the soil drains. Temperature and Humidity Hyacinths can be expected to survive the winter in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 to 8. They might need some winter protection in colder zones and some pre-chilling in warmer zones, depending on the variety. In zones where winter temperatures remain above 60 degrees Fahrenheit, dig up the bulbs and chill them somewhere dark and cold for six to 10 weeks before replanting. Fertilizer The easiest way to feed new bulbs is to toss some bulb food into the hole at planting time. There are many fertilizers available for feeding bulbs—10-10-10 is recommended—or you can use an ordinary bone meal. Feed the bulbs a mere handful at planting and again in the spring when the new growth first appears by scratching some bulb food into the nearby soil and watering well. For the amount to use, follow the product label instructions. Types of Hyacinth Modern hyacinths come in many colors. Some varieties include: 'Hollyhock': Offers striking reddish-pink double blooms 'Pink Pearl': Has fuchsia petals that are edged in pale pink 'Woodstock': Boasts deep plum petals 'Blue Jacket': Features a denser bloom structure and deep purple-blue flowers 'Top White': Offers bright white florets that are star-shaped 'City of Haarlem': This heirloom variety has been popular since the late 1800s and features yellow petals that mature to a pale yellow-creamy white. How to Force Hyacinth Bulbs It’s possible to force hyacinth bulbs indoors into early blooming. Simply plant a bulb in a container filled with well-draining potting mix, ensuring that the container also has drainage holes. The bulb tip should be just above the soil line. Place the container in a dark spot that remains between 33 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Allow it to sit there for at least 10 weeks as roots develop. Green shoots will also start to grow. Once the shoots grow to around an inch, start to slowly increase light and warmth. Water to keep the soil lightly moist but never waterlogged, and avoid hitting the shoots when watering. Once the plant has buds, move it to a sunny window with bright, indirect light to wait for your flowers to open. Pruning Once the bulbs have finished blooming, cut off the flower stalks but allow the leaves to remain. This will encourage the plants to store energy in their bulbs for next season. Propagating Hyacinth Like most perennial bulbs, hyacinths are best propagated by splitting offset bulbs from the parent plant in the fall. This method can take two or three years before the bulblet grows to a size sufficient to produce large, vibrant flowers. Thus, propagating hyacinths is an activity best practiced by serious enthusiasts. Here's how to propagate hyacinths by splitting off the offset bulbs: After the flowers have faded but before the foliage has begun to turn brown (usually in late summer or fall), dig up a mature hyacinth with a trowel. Make sure to wear gloves when handling hyacinths, as the bulbs have toxins that can cause skin irritation. Wash off the soil, and separate the clump into individual bulbs—the parent bulb and bulblets. Replant the bulbs immediately into well-draining soil. Mixing in sand or compost is a good idea if your soil is dense. A handful of bone meal or bulb fertilizer is also recommended at planting time. How to Grow Hyacinth From Seed While hyacinths can be propagated from seed, it can take several years to coax the seed into creating a bulb and to nurture the bulb into a sizable structure that will produce a flowering plant. First, you’ll have to allow your hyacinth blooms to remain on the plant to form seed pods. These pods will ripen from green to tan as they form small black seeds inside. The pods will dry and split open; you can catch the seeds by putting a white sheet under the plant or wrapping pantyhose around the flowers themselves. Separate the seeds, and soak them in warm water for one to two days. Place them between two moist paper towels in a plastic bag, and put them in the refrigerator to sprout. Once they’ve sprouted, slightly press them into a seed tray filled with moist seed-starting mix, and place them in a cold frame or greenhouse to continue growing. Potting and Repotting Hyacinth When planting in pots, either plastic or clay will do as long as they have good drainage. The container should be roughly 6 inches deep. The width of the container depends on how many bulbs you are planting. Hyacinth bulbs in pots can be spaced more closely than when planted in the ground because the bulbs won't need room to multiply. You can squeeze them in so they are almost touching, but leave room for some soil in between to hold water. Repotting should not be necessary if you have properly spaced your bulbs. Ordinary commercial potting soil is fine for planting hyacinths in containers, though some people like to blend in a little sand with the potting mix. Keep the potting medium damp but not soaking wet until the bulbs sprout. Then, water whenever the soil dries out. Once the bulbs have sprouted, move them to indirect sunlight. Cool temperatures will keep them in bloom longer. Overwintering In colder zones (USDA zones 2 and 3), applying a thick layer of mulch over the bulb bed can allow hyacinth bulbs to survive cold winters. You also can position the bulbs an inch or two deeper at the time of planting to help insulate them. In zones 4 to 8, no winter protection should be necessary. However, if your hyacinths are outdoors in containers, cover them or move them to a sheltered spot to prevent the containers from accumulating too much moisture and rotting the bulbs. If you are growing hyacinths in zone 9 or above, where winter temperatures stay above 60 degrees Fahrenheit, you will need to dig up your bulbs and chill them artificially before replanting. Store them in a mesh bag in a cool, dark spot that remains above freezing but below 45 degrees Fahrenheit for 10 weeks minimum. Common Pests & Plant Diseases All kinds of rodents will munch on hyacinth bulbs. You can give them some protection by throwing a handful of gravel into the planting hole, or you can try commercial rodent deterrents. An easier method is to interplant them with daffodils, which rodents tend to avoid.5 Few plant diseases affect hyacinths, but the bulbs can rot when planted in dense soil that doesn't drain well. How to Get Hyacinth to Bloom Bloom Months Hyacinth typically blooms in mid-spring, between March and April. Blooms can last for a few weeks, usually until the end of April and sometimes May. What Does Hyacinth's Flowers Look and Smell Like? Hyacinth flowers feature long, bright green leaves and bell-shaped petals. The bright tubular flowers that come in many colors such as white, blue, purple, pink, and red. The blooms have a sweet floral scent that can be powerful. Hyacinth also mix well with other spring-blooming bulbs, as they come in so many colors and sizes. Their spiky flower stalks make a nice counterpoint to cup-shaped tulips and ruffled daffodils. How to Encourage More Blooms Hyacinth bulbs are generally low-maintenance and bloom quite easily on their own in the spring. That being said, you can give yours a leg up by cutting down the flower stalk when this year's blooms fade. Then, when its leaves turn yellow, cut them away as well. Feed them once they bloom, and again in August, to give them a boost for the following spring. But be aware that most gardeners find it necessary to replant hyacinths (or lift and divide them) every two or three years to keep them blooming robustly. Like many hybrid bulbs, hyacinths lose their vigor rather quickly. Common Problems With Hyacinth The hyacinth is a reliable plant that will give you several years of aromatic blooms, but occasionally there are unfortunate issues. Spotted Foliage If you've had a late frost after the foliage has appeared, hyacinth leaves can develop disfiguring spots. Sadly, there is not much you can do about it, but in some cases, it will not affect the flower stalks that later appear. Broken, Streaked Petals Broken and streaked petals can be caused by the mosaic virus, which also can cause mottled leaves. Infected plants will need to be dug up and thrown away. Sterilize any tools you use to do this; they, too, can spread the disease. Small Flowers It is normal for hyacinths to bloom less robustly with every subsequent season. You can prolong their lifespan by regular feeding. Propagating new plants by dividing mature hyacinths can keep you in blooming plants almost indefinitely. Taller varieties can tend to flop. You can stake them if you only have a few, or plant them closer together so that they support one another.