Trees are important landscape components that grow slowly but often outlast most other plants. They offer visual height, shade, and a habitat for birds, and well-planted trees could very well outlive you. Adding a tree to your property is a bit more complex than adding a small shrub or garden bed, but that doesn't mean it's too difficult for a DIY. You'll just need to invest time and resources into doing the job right if you want to leave your property more shaded and beautiful than you found it. Here's how to plant a tree the easy way and help it flourish for future generations. How to Plant a Tree Select Your Tree Type The best way to set yourself up for success is to choose a tree that will thrive in your local climate. Look up your region's USDA Plant Hardiness Zone and select a tree that is likely to grow well under local conditions. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Choose a Location Aesthetics isn't the only thing to consider when selecting the best spot for a tree. To figure out where to plant it, start with the process of elimination. You'll need to consider the following: Underground utility lines: Make sure you research your state laws before digging and contact the proper agencies and utility companies to mark underground lines. Sunlight: Most trees need six to eight hours of full sunlight to grow well, so avoid any shaded areas in your yard. Mature size: You'll also want to consider the full size of the tree when it matures, so don't select a location that's too close to structures like your home or other mature trees. Prepare Your Starter Tree If you're relatively new to gardening, planting a starter tree rather than a seed can help give you better results. You'll get to bypass the initial growing stages where more things can go wrong. Before planting a bare-root starter tree, you'll need to soak its roots in a bucket of water for a couple of hours to help them stay moist during the process. For potted starter trees, make sure to water the tree as soon as you get it home. Place it outside near its future dwelling place to allow it to acclimate to the conditions for a week. When you're ready to plant it, gently remove it from its container. Prepare the Hole Adjust the soil: Start by checking your soil's acidity and assessing its health. Most trees prefer loose, loamy, and well-draining soil with a neutral pH. However, you'll want to research your specific tree's needs and adjust the soil accordingly to make it more acidic or to raise the pH. Incorporating organic matter via compost can make the soil looser, more loamy, and better-draining, but it also raises the acidity. It's all about balance. Dig the hole: Dig a hole in your yard that's at least twice the width and about one inch deeper than the starter tree's root system. Set the excavated soil aside: Don't discard the extra soil you've removed from the tree. You'll need it in the next step. Transplant the Starter Tree To transplant your tree, place it upright in the prepped hole. Shovel the excavated soil back into the hole, tamping it gently as you go. Reposition the tree as needed during the process to ensure it stays upright. Add extra soil to the base of the tree in a mound shape, and create a moat around the perimeter for extra water to collect and keep the tree moist as it matures. Apply a thin layer of mulch, leaving a three-inch ring around the base of the tree to allow for air flow. How to Care for a Newly-Planted Tree While a young tree is establishing its root system, it needs some extra attention. Follow these care tips for the first two to three years after planting your tree. Water frequently:Water the tree daily for the first two weeks to prevent root shock, and slowly reduce the frequency after to every other day and then weekly. Once your tree becomes more established, you only need to water it every two to three weeks during dry periods. Keep it mulched: Keeping a young tree mulched will help its roots retain moisture better. Reapply the mulch on an annual basis. You can drop the frequency to once every two years when the tree matures. Stake it: Sometimes, a young tree's root system isn't established enough to support it. If you notice your transplanted tree bending, stake it to prevent it from snapping from the top weight or heavy winds. The Best Time to Plant a Tree You'll want to plant a starter tree into the ground when the weather is mild and when the plant is entering or just starting to end its dormancy period. For most regions, this is during fall or early spring. Both seasons have their pros and cons for planting a tree. Planting a Tree in Fall Planting a tree in the fall gives it ample time to establish its root system before the summer heat kicks in. Since the tree is on its way towards entering dormancy, it can channel its energy into root growth rather than leaf growth. However, you want to make sure you don't plant the tree too late in the fall, or you run the risk of below-freezing temps causing damage to the tree's root system. Planting a Tree in Spring Local nurseries often get a fresh supply of trees delivered in spring, so you should have a great selection to choose from. Just be sure to wait until after the ground has thawed from winter, but don't put it off too long. The warmer temps of early summer can cause the tree to go into shock.

Ginseng ficus is commonly used for bonsai, particularly for its narrow elevated roots that swell into a potbelly trunk and thin at the branches before spreading out to the crown. Ginseng ficus is a tropical plant native to Southeast Asia and is a member of the Moraceae or mulberry family. Ginseng ficus grows best in acidic to neutral soil with higher humidity and full sun from a nearby window. The sap from this plant is toxic to humans, and touching it can cause skin irritation and allergic reactions; wash hands after touching it.1 Ginseng ficus is toxic to dogs and cats. Ginseng Ficus Bonsai Care Here are the main care requirements for growing a ginseng ficus bonsai: Grows best with warmth and humidity; avoid drafts. Prefers bright, indirect sun. Give water when the soil dries out. Provide fertilizer on a regular schedule once a month. Light Your bonsai will need six to eight hours of light. Indoors, placing it on a windowsill is a good idea. If this is not available, grow lights can aid in growing your ginseng ficus. If you take your tree outdoors during the summer, plan to place it in a spot with plenty of sunlight but not too much afternoon sun. The bonsai will not tolerate shade at all. Soil Ginseng ficus trees do well in a soil mix of sixty percent aggregate and forty percent organic matter. You can buy a premix or make your own using pine bark, lava rock, and a product called akadama, which holds water and slowly breaks down over time. Water Water your ginseng ficus thoroughly whenever the soil gets slightly dry, but do not water it to the point where the bonsai is dripping or fungal issues may occur. More frequent watering will be needed if your plant is in a hot environment. Cleaning Your Plant Take a damp paper towel and carefully wipe the leaves off when they get dusty. You can also use a spray bottle to mist the leaves before wiping, though this does nothing for your plant's actual water intake. Temperature and Humidity The ginseng ficus is an indoor bonsai and is not frost-hardy. It can be brought outside once temperatures are consistently above 60°F but must be kept in the sun and not allowed to dry out. Low humidity can be tolerated due to the waxy surface covering the ficus’ leaves, but it will thrive in a humid environment. Fertilizer Bonsai draw on very little soil, so it is necessary to replenish their nutrients occasionally. Any multi-purpose liquid fertilizer available at your friendly local nursery or garden center should be adequate. For bonsai, dilute the mixture by 50% with water before applying monthly. Using Ginseng Ficus as a Bonsai For newcomers to the ancient Japanese art of bonsai, a great place to start is with a ginseng ficus. It looks terrific and requires minimal care compared to other bonsai, which can be challenging to maintain. Bonsai artists especially focus on the raised roots of these funky little plants to create a particular aesthetic. In their natural habitat, these aerial roots grow easily in high-humidity environments. The effect is achieved by roots growing vertically downward from branches until they reach the soil, developing into thick, strong trunks. This can achieve the desired pillar style or the root-over-rock bonsai style, deshojo. Training a Bonsai To train your plant, use anodized aluminum or annealed copper wire. Wiring your ficus’ thin and medium branches is easy since they are flexible and bend easily. Ensure the wires are not cutting into the tree and readjust if needed. For larger branches, guy wires will be necessary and must stay on the tree much longer. Ficus trees are unique in that they can fuse their branches, roots, and other ficus plants. Pruning Pruning is necessary and part of what makes a bonsai a bonsai, not just a plant. You can forego the pruning for a year or longer to achieve a thicker trunk. When ready to prune leaves, an excellent rule is to prune back to two leaves after six to eight leaves have grown. New shoots will grow from old wood if you have left the trunk to thicken. But be sure to tend to any substantial wounds with cut paste so disease does not occur. Always use sharp and clean tools when working with your plant. Pruning Tip Looking for the best pruners for your ginseng ficus bonsai? We tested over 10 top-rated pruning shears in our Lab to make sure your plants stay happy and healthy. Propagating Ginseng Ficus Bonsai Ginseng ficus, aka ficus retusa, can easily be propagated, and there's no better time to do that than after you've pruned it. Here's how: Simply select a healthy stem and cut a 6-inch cutting with scissors or pruning shears. Put the cutting in a container that has been prepared with potting soil mix, and then water it. Place a clear plastic bag over the cuttings to create a greenhouse effect, keeping the moisture in and encouraging it to root. Water lightly every few days, making sure the soil stays moist. The cutting should root in a few weeks. Potting and Repotting Ginseng Ficus Bonsai Repotting a bonsai must happen when the root system has filled the pot. It needs to be done to give the tree new soil and to encourage a more compact root system. You will only need to repot your ficus every other year during the summer. Simply remove the tree and soil from its pot and trim its roots' outer and lower quarters. Be careful not to over-prune or remove too much root material. Place the bonsai into the original pot or a new container using the bonsai soil mix. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Caring for your ginseng ficus bonsai properly, with the correct lighting and water, will keep it strong and more resistant to pests and plant diseases. However, the ginseng ficus can get spider mites, scale, mealybugs, and aphids. Use neem oil or a liquid dishwashing soap and water mixture to remove the pests. Root rot, a fungal disease, can be a problem for ginseng ficus If overwatered. If you see any white or black spots on the leaves, trim them off and treat the bonsai with a fungicide. Common Problems With Ginseng Ficus Bonsai Ginseng ficus is easy to maintain when given the right growing conditions. Losing Leaves or Wilting Water issues, such as too much or insufficient, can cause ginseng ficus to drop its leaves. Keep the top inch of soil moist but not soggy. Leaves that are underwatered will appear wilted but should plump up again after giving water. Yellowing Leaves All leaves will eventually turn yellow and die, but prematurely yellowing leaves can be caused by overwatering or a fungal infection, like root rot.

Ensure that you are watering your plant according to its needs—not too much, and not too little. Check your plant regularly for signs of pests, fungus, or other topical maladies. Consider if your plant is getting everything it needs, including space and soil nutrients. Taking care of plants is rewarding, especially when it comes to fruit trees or other edible plants. But it quickly becomes a stressful endeavor when you spot a mystery problem, such as your citrus leaves turning yellow. Whether it's an orange, lime, grapefruit, or lemon tree's leaves turning yellow, we've rounded up some of the most common reasons why the foliage might be full-blown yellow or speckled with spots, as well as solutions, straight from experts. Overwatering People who care deeply for plants can be so concerned with underwatering that they end up overwatering their tree. Soggy soil can lead to root rot for the likes of lemon and orange trees, leading to yellow leaves and other problems. "It’s best to repot the plant as soon as possible if you’ve accidentally overwatered it, or if you notice that the soil is very compact and dries out pretty slowly," says botany expert Nastya Vasylchyshyna. When doing so, replace old substrate with fresh, dry soil, and examine the plant's roots, cutting off any rotten parts with sterilized pruners. Then, treat the remaining roots with fungicide, Vasylchyshyna recommends, and your tree should be as good as new. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Underwatering On the other hand, a lack of water can also cause the leaves on your mandarin, lemon, orange, and lime trees to turn yellow and eventually dry out entirely. The good news? Vasylchyshyna says it's totally possible for your tree to bounce back. "If your citrus is lacking moisture, water it more frequently and generously, soaking the soil all the way down," she says. "You can trim any bare, leafless shoots to encourage new growth." It's easy to assume that watering requirements are the same across the Rutaceae family, but it's good to look at the specific variety you've planted, how old it is, and where it's located in your garden or home. Nutrient Deficiencies Nitrogen, magnesium, zinc, nitrogen, manganese, and iron deficiencies are common among citrus tree varieties. You can combat this with soil testing and a complex fertilizer that can counteract any low or high levels of nutrients in the soil where your tree is planted. "Make sure the plant food you choose has the right ratio of macronutrients—such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium—and contains necessary micronutrients as well," says Vasylchyshyna. She recommends a fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 2-1-1. You'll want to adjust this as the seasons change and your citrus tree flowers. Stick with the aforementioned ratio in spring and summer. "Once the citrus starts to flower, reduce the share of nitrogen in favor of potassium (an NPK ratio of 1-1-2 or 1-1-1)," she says. "During the fruiting season, keep the nitrogen levels low and increase the share of phosphorus and potassium; a fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 1-2-2 works best at this time." Plant Diseases There are a handful of diseases that can inflict your citrus tree and lead to the yellowing of its leaves. Some are specific to certain varieties of citrus, whereas others you'll find wreaking havoc across various tree types. One of the main diseases citrus trees are susceptible to is chlorosis; this issue can arise through a few different factors—from pest infestations to overwatering to physical breakages. In many instances, you may want to prune a lemon tree or other citrus variety to stop the spread. Pests Like any plant or tree, citrus fruits can attract a range of bugs to its branches. While some are undoubtedly essential and supportive (like pollinators), some cause trouble for your trees. One example in particular is spider mites. "These pests can be quite hard to spot, especially early on, as they hide on leaf undersides and in leaf axils," says Vasylchyshyna. "They pierce leaves and suck the sap from plant tissue, which causes the foliage to turn yellow." Give your trees thorough examinations, using a magnifying glass to spot any tiny critter infestations. Oftentimes, the best way to solve for these problems are through hosing down the tree and using an insecticide or acaricide. Fungus Fungi can cause problems for citrus trees and lead to the development of diseases, with common symptoms being yellow leaves. Fungicides are usually the most effective way of clearing out the fungus; oil is another helpful solution. Before taking action, visually determine the exact type of fungal problem your tree is having and the best fix depending on the kind of tree you have. The Pot A common, though unexpected, culprit of yellowing leaves is often the pot your tree is in. Trees growing in a planter as opposed to in the ground may feel restricted, leading to yellow leaves. "When choosing a pot, make sure it accommodates the root system, leaving just enough space for new growth," Vasylchyshyna says. "If your citrus gets root-bound, it can't properly absorb water and nutrients." If this happens, repot your plant as fast as possible into a container twice the size of the previous one. While doing so, loosen the roots of your plant to encourage healthy growth. Once this is done, be sure to give it plenty of attention and care so it can recover from the shock.

Growing perennial herbs is a savvy way to save money in the garden and make gardening chores a lot easier. However, keeping track of the herbs that are actually perennials can be a bit of a challenge since many perennial herb plants are commonly treated like annuals in cold climates. To help you out, we’ve compiled a list of popular perennial herbs below, including a selection of the most cold hardy plants that can survive winters in the chilliest gardens. What Are Perennial Herbs? Perennial herbs are relatively long-lived plants that take more than 2 years to complete their life cycle. These plants are winter hardy in their native habitat and often get quite large as they mature. Many of our most popular culinary herbs are technically perennials, including most mints and woody-stemmed herbs like lavender. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! What Are Annual Herbs? Herbs that are true annuals often have tender stems and a fast growth rate and they complete their entire life cycle in less than a year. That means that if you plant annual herb seeds in spring, you can expect your plants to reach their mature size, flower, and produce seeds all before they die back in fall. Dill, cilantro, and other herbs in the carrot family fall into this category; however, many perennial herbs are treated like annuals when they’re planted outside of their hardiness zone. Perennial vs. Tender Perennial Herbs Although tender perennial herbs are technically perennial plants, tender herbs are sensitive to the cold and they don’t survive winters in chilly climates. Most growers cultivate tender perennial herbs, like basil, as annuals and allow their plants to die back in fall. However, cold-sensitive herbs can be kept alive for years by overwintering them indoors or in a heated greenhouse. If you want to grow perennial herbs with minimal effort and don’t want to bother with overwintering plants indoors, select herbs that are winter hardy in your growing zone. Many cold tolerant, perennial herbs can be cultivated outdoors year round without winter protection—and some can even be harvested when they’re covered in snow. Common Perennial Herbs From apple mint to winter savory, there are many perennial herbs to choose from. But just because herbs are perennials, doesn’t mean they’ll necessarily grow perennially in your area. Before planting any of the following herbs in your garden, doublecheck their hardiness zone to make sure they can survive winters in your garden. Anise Hyssop Apple Mint Bay Laurel Bee Balm Bronze Fennel Catnip Chives Chocolate Mint French Tarragon Garlic Chives Lavender Lemon Balm Lemon Thyme Lemon Verbena Lovage Marjoram Mountain Mint Oregano Peppermint Pineapple Sage Roman Chamomile Rosemary Sage Salad Burnet Shiso Spearmint Stevia Sweet Cicely Thyme Winter Savory 11 Perennial Herbs to Grow Many growers dream of having a large herb garden brimming with fresh herbs for cooking, tea making, and more. But if you don’t have a lot of room for growing herbs, reserve the space you do have for the herbs you use the most in your recipes and plants that are well-suited to your growing zone. If you’re having a hard time choosing between herb plants, here’s a list of 11 perennial herbs that are especially versatile in the kitchen and easy to care for. Bay Laurel If you use a lot of bay leaves in your cooking, why not grow a bay laurel tree (Laurus nobilis) or two and harvest your own bay leaves for recipes? Although bay laurels only grow perennially in USDA zones 8 through 10, these plants thrive in roomy pots and can be cultivated indoors in cold locations. Among their many charms, bay laurel plants are relatively pest-proof, they’re long-lived, and their glossy green leaves have lots of aesthetic appeal. Chives Chives grow well in gardens or pots, and they can be used—fresh or dry—to flavor salads, soups, baked potatoes, casseroles, and many more dishes. Incredibly cold tolerant, chives grow perennially in zones 3 and up and they’re fantastic companion plants for attracting bees and other pollinators to veggie gardens. If you’re tired of classic chives, try growing garlic chives instead and use the garlic-flavored leaves in any recipe that calls for garlic cloves. Lavender Many growers cultivate lavender plants just for their richly scented leaves and charming, purple flowers. However, English lavender is edible and it can be used in desserts, brewed into teas, or infused into creative cocktails and mocktails. Like many other woody-stemmed herbs, lavender grows best in full sun and well-draining soil, and most varieties are winter hardy from zones 5 through 9. Marjoram There are several types of marjoram, but the most common variety for cooking is only hardy from zones 9 and up. If you live in a warm location, you can grow marjoram outdoors year round, but growers in colder areas should move their plants inside in winter if they want to keep them around. Marjoram leaves taste a bit like citrus mixed with pine and they can be used to elevate the taste of pasta sauces and other savory treats. Mint Growers have lots of mint plants to choose from, but peppermint and spearmint are usually the easiest plants to find at garden centers. Apple mint, chocolate mint, lemon balm, and catnip also fall into the mint category and, like other mint plants, they grow best when they’re provided with regular water and plenty of sun. Most mint plants grow aggressively and they should be kept in pots or dedicated raised beds to avoid invasiveness; however, native mountain mint plants are more mild-mannered and they’re especially attractive to native bees. Oregano Another cold hardy herb, common oregano grows perennially in zones 4 and up, and plants often remain evergreen through the winter months. In fact, you may be able to harvest small quantities of oregano leaves even when there’s snow on the ground and use those leaves to flavor pizza sauces, soups, and other cozy treats. For more variety, try lesser known oregano varieties like Greek oregano, Mexican oregano, or Syrian oregano. Roman Chamomile German chamomile and Roman chamomile are both grown for herbal teas; however, only Roman chamomile grows perennially. Compared to German chamomile, Roman chamomile plants are relatively short and they sport smaller, white and yellow flowers that are highly attractive to pollinators. Picking chamomile flowers every day or two keeps plants productive, and it’s the best way to boost the size of your chamomile harvest. Sage A classic herb for flavoring roasted meats and veggies, sage plants maintain a relatively upright growth habit and usually max out at around two to three feet tall. These plants grow well in pots or garden beds, but they should be kept in full sun and well-draining soil to avoid issues like root rot. Most culinary sage plants boast soft, silvery-green leaves, but if you love lots of garden color, you may want to grow purple or tricolor sage instead. Tarragon Hardy in zones 4 and up, tarragon is a popular ingredient in French cuisine and its licorice-flavored leaves are often blended into butter or infused into vinegar or olive oil. As with other homegrown herbs, tarragon leaves can be used fresh or they can be frozen or dried for longer term storage. Not only are tarragon plants tasty, but their buttery orange flowers bring lots of color to herb beds and flower pots—and they’re highly attractive to pollinators, too. Thyme Another woody-stemmed herb from the Mediterranean region, thyme prefers to grow in well-draining, sandy soil and full sun. While common thyme is the most popular thyme variety for culinary use, adventurous gardeners may want to grow other types of thyme instead. Lemon thyme, for instance, is prized for its lemony flavor; while creeping thyme has a particularly low growth habit and can be used as an edible ground cover or grass alternative in lawns. Winter Savory Unlike summer savory, winter savory is a perennial plant that has woody stems and a deep, rich flavor with notes of black pepper and pine. Hardy to zone 4, winter savory is often grown as a marjoram substitute in cold climates, but it’s also useful as a pest-repelling companion plant in vegetable gardens. If you want to dry woody-stemmed herbs like winter savory, gather the herb stems in bundles and hang them in a warm, dry place with good air flow until the stems are thoroughly dry and brittle.