The Macadamia genus has four different species of macadamia trees, two of which are mostly used for nut production. Native to Australia, this sub-tropical evergreen tree has a very limited range in the continental United States. While known for its delicious fruit, the tree is notoriously stingy when producing nuts, so unless you are prepared to plant multiple trees to cross-pollinate or take steps to ramp up production, the tree might be more suited as an ornamental or shade tree than a crop tree. Macadamia Tree Care No matter your tree's desired purpose, you will want to follow a certain set of guidelines to give your tree the best chance to thrive. Here is a brief list of key points to keep your macadamia tree happy and healthy: Provide your tree with full sun. Plant in regions with moist to wet conditions with at least 50 inches of rain annually. If looking to use it for nut production, choose a grafted plant to shorten the time to maturity. Amend your soil to reach a pH level of 5.5-6.5. Fertilize annually with low nitrogen, low phosphorus, and high potassium fertilizer once mature. Light When planting your macadamia tree, sun exposure is one of the biggest conditions to consider when choosing where to plant your tree. If planted in a spot that receives too little sun, this already slow-growing tree will suffer and not produce a tremendous amount of foliage. Later, when mature, produce fewer flowers and less fruit. To ensure you get the best growth out of your tree, plant it in a location that gets full sun. Soil While the macadamia is somewhat adaptable, a few things will help guarantee success when growing this relatively easy-to-maintain tropical evergreen. Test the acidity of your soil will ensure that you can amend the soil and fix its pH to achieve the macadamia's desired pH of 5.5-6.5. Once you know the soil's pH, look at the soil's moisture content, macadamia prefers wet to moist soil that is well draining. If the soil in the area you plan to plant is too moist, mix in plenty of perlite. Ultimately the ideal soil for your tree should be rich, moist, and well-draining. Water Macadamia trees are native to a region that receives at least 50 inches of rain annually, so the tree expects to get a good amount of water. This averages out to about 92 gallons of water during a hot week, which often occurs in the regions the macadamia grows. Irrigation is especially important during initial planting when the tree establishes itself, usually over the first one or two growing seasons and when it produces fruit. Temperature and Humidity Being a native to Australia, there are very few areas in the United States where the macadamia tree will grow outdoors successfully. The macadamia can also grow well in California, Southern Texas, Florida, and the Gulf Coast. It can thrive as long as the requirements of warm weather with a good amount of moisture are fulfilled. Macadamia trees are in hardy in USDA zones 9 and 11, but not all regions in these zones have high enough precipitation. Fertilizer Annual fertilizing is only recommended once the tree reaches maturity. Most often, this occurs within seven to ten years after planting. Fertilizing with low nitrogen, phosphorous, and high potassium formula is best. A 0-0-50 NPK formulation, such as sulfate of potash, is a good suggestion. Pruning Naturally macadamia trees will have a vase-shaped crown. This is perfect if you are using the tree ornamentally or for shade. If this is the case the only pruning needed will be maintenance pruning to remove dead, dying, and damaged branches annually. If you plan on using the tree for fruit production then you will want to start to prune the tree into a shape that will allow it to get the best amount of sun and airflow for the most abundant fruit production. When pruning, use sharp, clean pruning shears. In order to do this, step away from the tree and imagine a cone around it. Remove branches over the first few years to give your tree somewhat of a cone shape, remembering to never remove more than 1/3 of the tree's material within a single year. Types of Macadamia Tree There are four species of macadamia trees, countless hybrids between these four species, and a vast amount of commercially available cultivars and grafted selections. M. integrifolia: One of the two trees used in commercial production with sweet nuts, self-pollinating, and grows to about 50 feet. M. tetraphylla: One of the two trees used in commercial production with sweet nuts that grows to about 32 feet. M. ternifolia: A tree with a bitter nut on the vulnerable list that grows to a height of about 26 feet at a medium rate. M. jansenii: On the endangered list, it is critically endangered, with only 100 known trees in the wild. Propagating Macadamia Trees Propagating macadamia trees from cuttings is perfectly doable, it will not allow you to see your first crop for at least a decade. This also does not guarantee that the tree will produce abundant fruit or stay healthy enough on its rootstock to reach maturity. Most macadamia trees used for crop production are grafted onto a cultivar selected for heartiness to serve as rootstock. In taking a cutting, you lose the heartiness of the original rootstock. If still inclined to propagate, the best method would be by air layering, though the process is advanced. Common Problems with Macadamia Trees Generally, macadamia trees are easy to care for, with most issues coming not from disease or pests but rather from placement and conditions. If you give your tree the proper conditions, it will usually be happy, but here are some things to look out for: Deer and Rodents When the trees mature, one of the biggest issues will be unwanted wildlife eating your crop. The easiest way to avoid this is to be mindful of ripe fruit and watch for any macadamias that fall to the ground that may attract unwanted wildlife. Fungus Often caused by wounds from weed whackers or improperly cleaned pruning tools. The most common signs will be cankers or dark lesions. Macadamia is most susceptible to Anthracnose and Phytophthora ramorum.

Blueberry plants are fairly simple to grow, making them a great choice for both inexperienced and avid gardeners. However, to produce the biggest and juiciest blueberries, fertilizing with the right products at the right time is crucial. Experts recommend fertilizing blueberry plants in early spring, and sometimes again in early summer and early fall, with an acidic, slow-release fertilizer. The appropriate fertilizer for blueberry plants will supply essential nutrients like nitrogen and maintain the correct soil pH. Conditions for Growing Blueberries Blueberry plants are relatively easy to grow in pots or directly in the ground and are fairly tolerant of both hot and cold weather. Nevertheless, blueberries do best in areas that are protected from high winds and receive six to eight hours of full sun. Your soil should be acidic, well-draining, and rich in organic matter, with a pH of 4.0 to 5.5. When to Fertilize Blueberry Plants To help your blueberries access the right amount of nutrients at the right times, you should fertilize at least once a season and up to three times, based on the soil pH and plant's health. While the exact timing is flexible, experts suggest fertilizing blueberries before the plants begin producing foliage or at the first signs of foliage (generally in the early spring). Always check your the recommended application rates and timing for your specific fertilizer before adding it to your blueberry plants. Some gardeners also fertilize blueberries in early summer, roughly six weeks later, as well as early fall, roughly one month before the first frost. However, the amount of fertilizer your blueberries require, ultimately depends on two factors: the soil pH and available nitrogen. If you notice pale leaves or minimal growth on your blueberry plants, test the soil pH to see if it's time to fertilize. How to Fertilize Blueberries You can choose a water-soluble fertilizer for your blueberry plants, but many avid gardeners recommend an acidic, slow-release fertilizer, which comes in the form of small granules. Their solid composition allows for a gradual application of nutrients over time, which helps promote the long-term health of your blueberry plants. Sprinkle your fertilizer granules evenly around the base of the plant and outward, as far away from the plant's main stem as its branches and leaves. Blueberry plants have fairly shallow roots, so there's no need to rake or turn over the soil after applying your fertilizer. In fact, you should avoid disturbing the soil, since doing so could inadvertently damage the plant's roots. Once you've applied the fertilizer, some gardeners like to add a thin layer (no more than two inches) of mulch to help insulate the plant's roots. If you choose to apply a layer of mulch, we recommend a simple option like wood chips or even dried, shredded leaves. The Best Fertilizers for Blueberries The best fertilizer for your blueberry plants should accomplish two primary goals: add nitrogen and acidify the soil. As is the case with many fruit plants, nitrogen is essential to help blueberries grow plump and juicy. Nitrogen helps every part of a blueberry plant thrive, from the depth of the roots to the color of the leaves. An ammonium sulfate or elemental sulfur fertilizer can both provide nitrogen gradually and maintain a healthy soil pH. If you'd like to solely apply nutrients, purchase an organic granular fruit fertilizer to feed your plant. Blueberry plants will generally thrive with any fertilizer designed for acid-loving plants like azaleas and rhododendrons. Be sure to test your soil pH before adding fertilizer to assess the nutrients already present in your garden and determine which is the appropriate fertilizer for your plants.

Whether or not you should grow herbs in the ground or in pots depends on your climate and soil. Containers offer the benefit of flexibility, allowing you to customize your soil and herbs' location. Test and understand your soil and the conditions herbs prefer before planting anything in the ground. As we all eye the rising temperatures and grocery store prices, growing your own herbs becomes even more appealing. It's affordable, it's fun, and you get a nonstop supply of herbs (at least for a few months). But is it better to grow herbs in pots or in the ground? We asked a pro gardener to find out the best way to do it for maximum success. Is It Better to Grow Herbs in Pots or in Ground? Where you should grow herbs depends on the answer to two questions, according to John LoRusso, master gardener and master gardener coordinator for Windham County, CT. He suggests asking yourself what kind of soil are you growing plants in and what kind of climate do you live in. Herbs require excellent drainage and moist (but not wet) soil. If your soils are heavy, it's better to plant your herbs in containers so you can have a lighter soil mix. If you have a very wet climate, there's no way to ease drainage in the ground. If you have a very dry climate, you'll be watering herbs in containers all the time. Containers also have the benefit of flexibility. "Containers also offer the option of being able to be placed at table height for ease of harvest. They can also be moved indoors at the end of the season to extend the harvest," LoRusso says. He recommends unglazed clay pots, which, thanks to their porous material, can be placed in the ground if you so choose and still absorb water and nutrients. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! How to Decide Where to Grow Herbs In very wet climates and backyards with heavy or acidic soil, LoRusso recommends growing herbs in pots. (Most herbs prefer a pH of 6 to 7, so soil that's too acidic also won't treat your herbs well.) With pots, you can get exactly the right soil mix for the type of herbs you're growing, whether you need a lighter mix or one with more organic matter. LoRusso also suggests considering the pots you have on hand and your desired supply of herbs. "The plants are constrained by the pot, and does the gardener have enough pots for all the herbs they want to grow—is there ever enough basil?" LoRusso says. You should also take into account your own care habits. Herbs shouldn't be allowed to dry out and wilt, and the soil in containers will dry out more frequently than the soil in the ground. Are you committed to watering your herbs on a perhaps daily basis? Herbs That Grow Best in the Ground The herbs that grow best in ground will depend on your climate. In areas where soil is richer, LoRusso points to basil, dill, parsley, fennel, and chevril. Those herbs can handle higher moisture levels. In areas with sandier soils, lavenders, thyme, and rosemary will do well. If you don't have the appropriate soil for the herb you want to grow, you should grow them in pots. Herbs That Grow Best in Pots Any herb your yard doesn't have the appropriate soil for should be grown in a pot. If you haven't grown plants in your yard's soil before and don't feel confident assessing if it's rich or sandy, a pot is the easy way to go. LoRusso also recommends pots for herbs that love to spread, like mint and spearmint, which if allowed to grow freely will extend throughout (and beyond) your garden bed.

Growing sunflowers in pots is easy, but you have to follow specific care requirements. Plant sunflower seeds in a pot that can handle your full-grown sunflowers, so you don't have to repot them. Sunflowers grow best in a full-sun spot on a south-facing windowsill, patio, or porch. When you hear "sunflowers," the idea of growing them in pots may be the furthest thing from your mind. But there are many types of sunflowers, and some of them perform admirably in a pot, provided that you take a few basic steps to ensure their optimal growth. Learn how to plant and grow sunflowers in pots, from sowing the seed to choosing the perfect location for the pot. How to Plant and Grow Sunflowers in Pots Sunflowers are easy to grow, but you can increase your chances of success in the project by taking the following steps: Select a suitable variety to grow in a pot. Select a suitable pot. At the most basic level, match the size of the container to the size that the plant will achieve at maturity. Fill the pot with a potting mix. Sowing seeds directly in the pot, rather than starting the plants on a windowsill and transplanting them later, to avoid transplant shock. Sunflowers grow vigorously enough that you don't have to bother starting them indoors. Provide adequate water. Thin your seedling by selecting the seedling that looks healthiest as the one to keep, then gently remove the rest. This avoids overcrowding. If you want to grow multiple potted sunflowers, buy multiple pots. Locate the pot in a sunny spot. Fertilize your potted sunflower. Deadhead the flowers to encourage further blooming. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Sowing the Seed and Nursing the Seedlings The day before sowing seed, fill the container with potting mix (to within an inch of the rim) and sprinkle the surface with water to help it settle. You will be sowing a few seeds in the pot to ensure that something germinates, but you will be keeping only one seedling. Make your planting holes with a pencil, going down 1/2 inch. Drop a seed in each hole, then tamp down the soil to cover it. Water the soil lightly; do not make the soil soggy. After germination, irrigate regularly, but not excessively. The objective is to keep the soil evenly moist. Wait for the seedlings to put on a few inches of height before selecting the best one and thinning out the rest. The problem with thinning earlier is that young seedlings are particularly susceptible to damage from slugs and snails. A small plant can be decimated overnight by these pests. If you remove all seedlings but one too early, only to have that one destroyed by pests, you'll have to start all over again. Soil Sunflowers grown in containers need good drainage. This is why you'll be using a potting soil rather than garden soil: Potting soil is lighter and drains faster. Sunflowers are also heavy feeders, so they will require fertilization. A slow-release fertilizer is the safest type to use. You can also amend the soil with compost or aged manure. Light Sunflowers need full sun to grow properly. Station your pot in a location that, on a typical sunny day, gets six to eight hours of direct sunlight. Water Your goal in watering is to keep the soil evenly moist. It should not be allowed to dry out completely, nor should it be soggy. Potted sunflowers have to be watered more frequently than those grown in the ground, because containers dry out faster than the ground. But other factors, such as weather, also affect how often you will need to irrigate. To determine when it is time to water again, poke a hole an inch down into the soil: If it is not evenly moist down to that level, then it is time to water. Location In addition to choosing a location with full sun, select one that is sheltered from high winds. Potted sunflowers are very attractive on south-facing decks or patios. Best Sunflowers for Pots There are single-stem sunflowers and branching sunflowers. The single-stem types are great for cut flowers, as they bear large blooms on sturdy stalks. Branching types hold a charm of their own; some gardeners prefer them for patio displays, since they produce multiple blooms. Not all sunflower varieties grow well in pots. Large types, such as Helianthus annuus 'Mammoth,' are ill-suited for pots. Dwarf varieties are more suitable for pots; as a bonus, the shorter the sunflower, the less you will have to worry about it being buffeted by wind gusts. Find seeds for any of the more compact varieties of Helianthus annuus, which include: 'Firecracker': 2 to 3 feet tall, Firecracker is a branching sunflower. It has bicolored flowers (gold and reddish) with dark centers. 'Little Becka': 1 to 2 feet tall, Little Becka is a branching sunflower. It has bicolored flowers (gold and copper) with dark centers. 'SunBuzz': A shorter branching type (up to 20 inches tall), SunBuzz has yellow flowers with dark centers. 'Sunfinity': A taller specimen (up to 4.5 feet), Sunfinity is a branching sunflower that has golden flowers with dark centers. 'Teddy Bear': Teddy Bear is a single-stem type, sporting a large, golden flower that has a fuzzy texture. It stands 2 to 3 feet tall. Mexican sunflowers (Tithonia rotundifolia) are not true sunflowers, but they, too, perform well in pots. Best Pots for Sunflowers What makes a good container for sunflowers is one that: Has a large drain hole (to promote the excellent drainage that potted sunflowers need) Stays cool even while being pounded by the sun Has enough heft to offer stability Is big enough that the soil won't dry out too quickly yet not so big that the soil will retain excessive moisture Is made of a material that "breathes" Terra cotta pots are generally the best choice. Unlike plastic pots, they are porous, which allows for evaporation and keeps soil from becoming waterlogged.