Raspberries (Rubus idaeus), as thorny and imposing as they may be, are responsible for producing soft, red jewels of fruit. They hail from the same genus as blackberries, and while their fruits take on similar shapes and textures, there are a few differences. Growing raspberry bushes at home is completely possible. Many varieties cross a range of USDA zones, making it fairly easy to find a type that will thrive in your location. If there's a sunny patch in your garden that's missing some kind of plant, it's worth considering raspberries—they take a little while to fruit but will continue to blossom and produce year after year with the right care. How to Plant Raspberries Raspberry canes can really stand out in a garden with their bright green bushy leaves, white flowers, and red fruits. If visions of overgrown, thorny bushes are popping up in your head, don't fret—there are many ways to manage and maintain healthy raspberries. When to Plant Raspberries should be planted in early spring. It's possible to start planting towards the end of fall if you're in an area that doesn't get extreme winters. To find the perfect time for planting, find out the last frost date in your zone and plant after that has passed. Selecting a Planting Site Choose the sunniest area of your garden, even if it's prone to partial shade. Raspberries can still grow in these conditions, just ensure the bushes have enough space for their canes and root system to spread out. There should also be room for adding stakes or trellises to support the plant as it grows. Spacing, Depth, and Support You'll want to leave at least 18 inches between each cane you plant or seed you sow. Raspberries' root systems are on the shallower end, so you'll only need to push seeds in about 2 to 3 inches deep. These plants also need support for them to stretch horizontally and vertically. Trellises and stakes are suitable for smaller gardens—but for a larger row of raspberry plants, installing wooden posts into the ground with wire between is best. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Raspberry Bush Care These plants have a few requirements: sunlight, water, soil, and pollination are all key components to nurture a raspberry plant and help it thrive. They appreciate slightly acidic soil, plenty of light, and need pollinators around for their fruit to form properly and produce a sizable yield. While it may seem like a hefty job, they're relatively low-maintenance. Light It's best to place raspberries in an area that gets full sun. Optimal conditions provide raspberries with 6 to 8 hours of sunlight each day. Soil Raspberries appreciate richer soils, so amend yours by adding compost and manure. Loam soil is also great. The goal is to offer the plants a foundation that's nutrient-dense but drains well, too. Sulfur and lime1 are helpful additives for influencing the pH of your soil if it's not right for your raspberry bush. Sulfur can make it more acidic, whereas lime will increase the alkalinity. Water Raspberries need roughly an inch of water per week, but it's best to provide them with regular watering rather than one weekly deep soak. Avoid getting the fruit and leaves wet, as this can lead to disease and the fruit is prone to mold. For ease, drip irrigation set-ups are often used. With a little mindfulness of how you water them and a well-draining soil, they should be just fine. Temperature and Humidity Raspberries do completely fine in areas that remain cool throughout the year. Colder temperatures aren't detrimental to raspberries, and they usually prefer milder weather. However, there are some varieties that have been cultivated to handle hot summers, too. Fertilizer Fertilizer is a helpful way of supporting healthy growth in your raspberry plants. A slow-releasing fertilizer with nitrogen is recommended, and it's best to provide raspberries with fertilizer before the sun is high in the sky or after it has gone down. The best time to fertilize them is in early spring (about two weeks after planting) before major growth and fruit production occurs. Pollination Raspberries are self-pollinators, which makes it easier on gardeners in terms of care. Honeybees are the primary insect that helps with this process, which not only helps your raspberry bushes but boosts the biodiversity in your garden, too. Pollination is essential for the proper formation of a raspberry. Without it, the drupelets won't be healthy or fully formed enough to create a whole berry. Types of Raspberry Plants 'Amity': This variety produces large and sweet bright red fruits. It's a fall-bearing variety and extremely hardy when it comes to diseases and winters. 'Boyne': Mildly sweet and a floricane-variety, Boyne raspberries are fine for eating but ideal for making jams, jellies, chutneys, and other preserves. 'Heritage': This variety can handle hot summers and produces a healthy crop. They're primocane berries and are an easy type to grow. 'Willamette': For plenty of fruit that lasts, you can lean on the old and reliable Willamette variety, named after the location where it was cultivated in Oregon. 'Nova': This floricane-bearing berry is capable of adapting to different climates. It produces good yields and is slightly tart. Primocane-Bearing Raspberries vs. Floricane-Bearing Raspberries There are two types of canes within raspberry bushes: primocane-bearing and floricane-bearing. It can seem confusing at first, but you'll understand the difference in no time, which will help with harvesting, pruning, and overwintering your raspberry bushes. Harvesting Raspberries One of the fantastic things about this plant is how easily its fruit comes off the cane—when it's ready, that is. Using your thumb and forefinger, slightly tug or twist, and the berry should slide right off. You can wear gloves to prevent irritation from thorns when moving the canes. You'll know a raspberry is ripe when it's no longer green and is fully saturated. The color will depend on the variety, but it will typically be a bright, rosy red, golden yellow, or deep purply red. Green to greenish-pink berries indicate that they're still growing—as is any resistance when you tug at the berry—and it's better to leave these to continue to ripen. How to Grow Raspberries in Pots Raspberries are usually grown in the ground or raised beds, but it's possible to plant them in pots. Containers should be large enough to hold the bush and account for its growth and have drainage holes to prevent root rot. The best way to ensure this is by selecting smaller varieties that don't tend to spread as much as others. These include Malling Jewel, Ruby Beauty, Yummy Dwarf, Zeva, September, Malling Promise, and Autumn Treasure. Give them the same care as you usually would—plenty of sun and ample water—but aim to put your bushes in a spot that protects them from heavy winds. Pruning Pruning and cutting back raspberries is a vital part of ensuring they'll grow back and serve as a long-lasting perennial. Do an initial pruning early in spring to get rid of dead canes or anything that's diseased or suffocating other healthy growth. Propagating Raspberries The easiest way to propagate raspberries is through primocanes, also known as suckers. Suckers are fresh raspberry plants that pop up near your bush—raspberry canes are quick growers after all. To propagate from suckers: Wear gloves to protect your hands from prickly canes and stems. In early spring, select a few suckers that are around six inches tall and separate from your main bush. Carefully pull out the sucker from the soil. If necessary, you may need to dig around the plant to loosen the roots. The root system should be small enough that it won't put up too much of a fight. You can divide the sucker root systems if they're larger and then transplant them into your intended area. To propagate raspberries from cane cuttings: Use gloves to protect your hands, then with a pair of sharp and clean secateurs or shears, cut off a section of cane that's 6 or 7 inches tall. You can use a rooting hormone to support growth, but it's not essential. Push the end into your new soil patch, leaving about half to 1/3 of the cane sticking out of the dirt. The can should form its root system and begin to grow as its own bush. Depending on the type, it can take a year or two for fruiting to happen. Overwintering Raspberries are dormant in the winter and will not require as much water. Ensure you prune your plants back, which directs energy to their root systems. Don't worry too much, as their canes will return in the spring. Mulch around the soil can help with maintaining a more consistent temperature. For the most part, raspberry bushes tend to do okay and are built for overwintering. Raspberries in containers can be moved into a different area of your garden that gets shelter from wind and any heavy rain or snow. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Raspberries are appealing not just to gardeners, but quite a variety of pests, too. Japanese beetles, sap beetles, aphids, spider mites, spotted wing drosophila, and leafhoppers are a few of the bugs that enjoy chomping away. Small mammals also enjoy eating parts of the raspberry plant, including squirrels, chipmunks, rabbits, and deer. Pest nets, oils, and repellant soaps and solutions can all be beneficial. As for diseases, raspberries are typically afflicted by spur blight, powdery mildew, botrytis fruit rot, cane blights, root rot, late leaf rust, and verticillium wilt. Some varieties of raspberries are more susceptible than others to particular diseases. There are multiple ways to handle these problems, through pruning and fungicidal sprays.

Although many people associate hibiscus with tropical or subtropical regions, it also grows in temperate climates throughout the world. The large Hibiscus genus of over 200 species and many more cultivars includes annuals, perennials, shrubs, and small trees. The large, trumpet-shaped flowers of up to 12 inches in diameter are common to all hibiscus—they are the main attraction of this popular ornamental. The flowers come in a kaleidoscope of bright colors from white to pink, red, blue, orange, peach, yellow, and purple. All hibiscus flowers are very attractive to butterflies and hummingbirds. The care and growing requirements vary from species to species. Hibiscus Care The care you provide your hibiscus will vary depending on whether it is a hardy or tropical variety and whether it is grown indoors or outdoors. Here are the main care requirements for growing hibiscus: In northern US, plant hibiscus in full sun. In the southern US, filtered sunlight is preferable. The soil should be fertile and loamy. All hibiscus needs consistently moist soil with good drainage. Keep the soil moist and water as needed. Select varieties that tolerate the temperatures in your location year-round. Alternatively, grow hibiscus in pots and overwinter it indoors. Fertilize the plant regularly during the growing season. Light Hibiscus loves bright conditions. In northern climes, full sun is best, but in the intense sunlight of southern locations, filtered sunlight is better. Indoors, hibiscus needs a bright spot near a sunny window. However, keep it away from strong, direct sunlight. If you move the plant outdoors for the summer, gradually acclimate it to the brighter light conditions. Soil All hibiscus do best in well-drained, fertile, moist, loamy soil. The hardy varieties are wetland natives and are a good choice for sites that are too wet for other plants. Most hibiscus prefer a slightly acidic soil pH. Water All hibiscus are thirsty plants that need to be kept moist. Unless they are planted in consistently moist soil, water them regularly. Mulching around the plant base helps with moisture retention. For container-grown plants, wait until the top inch of the potting mix fully dries out before watering. In hot summer weather, you might need to water your potted hibiscus as often as daily. Indoor tropical hibiscus benefits from regular watering from spring to early autumn during the growing season. Significantly reduce watering during the dormant period in the winter. Temperature and Humidity Hardy hibiscus grows in cool, temperate climates. It thrives in temperatures between 60°F to 90°F and tolerates temperatures as low as -30°F.1 Temperatures below 50°F cause cold-sensitive and tropical varieties to drop their leaves and temperatures below freezing kill the plants. Bring container-grown tropical hibiscus indoors when weather cools. All hibiscus thrive in high humidity; they aren't suitable for hot, arid climates. The high humidity found in a bathroom is a good place for an indoor hibiscus. Fertilizer To encourage abundant, healthy blooms with vibrant colors, hibiscus benefits from light yet regular fertilization. There is specially formulated hibiscus fertilizer, but any other fertilizer that is moderate in nitrogen, low in phosphorus, and high in potassium such as 10-4-12 or 12-4-18 will also work. Use a diluted water-soluble fertilizer once a week for hardy or tropical hibiscus. Granular slow-release fertilizer should be applied on hardy hibiscus three times a year, including early spring, after the first round of blooming, and midsummer, and tropical hibiscus monthly during the growing season from spring to fall. Types of Hibiscus There are hundreds of hibiscus species, including tropical and hardy hibiscus, plus many hybrids and cultivars. The four most popular species are: Tropical hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis): Also known as Chinese hibiscus, tropical hibiscus plants produce large and showy blooms from spring through fall as long as they get plenty of sunlight. In colder climates, plant tropical hibiscus in a container and overwinter it indoors. There are many different varieties, including the popular 'Fiesta'. USDA Hardiness Zone 7-11. Hardy hibiscus (Hibiscus moscheutos): This is the hibiscus for a cooler climate. Native to North America, the oversized flowers feature tissue-thin, ruffled petals in shades of pink, lilac, red, magenta, and white. USDA Hardiness Zone 4-9. Swamp hibiscus (Hibiscus coccineus): Native to the southeastern United States, this unusual hibiscus species has large, bright red, pinwheel-like flowers in the summer. USDA Hardiness Zone 6-9. Cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis): The show-stopping flowers of this tropical shrub start as a white or light pink color and within one to three days, change to a magenta pink and then a dark pink to red. USDA Hardiness Zone 7-11. Pruning Pruning hibiscus annually stimulates new growth with flower buds. The timing depends on the type of hibiscus you have but generally, pruning should be done as soon as the weather warms up in the spring. Hardy hibiscus mostly dies back to the ground in winter so you will only have to remove the dead stems before the new growth emerges. Dead, damaged, or diseased stems should be pruned at any time as soon as you notice them. Propagating Hibiscus Some hibiscus types are best propagated from stem cuttings and others can be propagated from seed. Follow the step-by-step propagation instructions for the type of hibiscus you have. How to Grow Hibiscus From Seed Growing hibiscus from seeds is usually only recommended for swamp hibiscus and roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa), the hibiscus species whose flowers are used for tea. For all other hibiscus types, propagation from seed is challenging and will likely lead to disappointing results because hibiscus cultivars and hybrids propagated from seed won’t produce a plant that is true to the parent. Potting and Repotting Hibiscus Nutrient-loving potted hibiscus will benefit from being repotted every couple of years in early spring. Avoid deep pots, otherwise the plant will spend a lot of its energy on root development instead of flower production. The ideal pot shape is quite wide but relatively shallow. Repot a plant that has outgrown its container into a pot one size larger and filled with fresh potting mix. Water well to establish the settle in its new home. Overwintering Tropical hibiscus is only hardy to USDA Zone 9 so it needs to be overwintered indoors in a warm spot where it gets plenty of indirect sunlight daily. Before you move the plant inside, cut it back by one-third and spray it thoroughly with a garden hose to remove any pests that may be present on the plant. Let the soil almost fully dry out between waterings and stop fertilizing. Leaf drop during the dormancy is normal; the plant will start regrowth in the spring. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Hibiscus is not bothered by many pests or diseases, but red spider mites become a problem when humidity levels are not high enough. Another potential pest is aphids. Keep them at bay with regular cleaning or insecticidal soaps. The appeal of hibiscus to deer depends on the species. How to Get Hibiscus to Bloom Bloom Months Depending on the type, hibiscus blooms from June to early fall. How Long Does Hibiscus Bloom? Individual flowers of most varieties only last for one day before they close and eventually fall off the plant. The payoff is a very long bloom period. Hardy hibiscus blooms from mid to late summer until the first frost and tropical hibiscus blooms from spring through late fall and into winter in frost-free climates. What Do Hibiscus Flowers Look and Smell Like? Hibiscus flowers range in size from 2 to 12 inches. They come in a kaleidoscope of colors and shades and the flowers are single or double trumpet-shape blooms. The flowers have no scent. How to Encourage More Blooms Failure to bloom is very often the result of shady conditions or a lack of fertilizer. Weekly feeding with a diluted liquid fertilizer may prompt your plant to produce plentiful flowers. Caring for Hibiscus After It Blooms Cutting perennial hibiscus back by one-third after the first bloom encourages a second flush of summer blooms. Deadheading Hibiscus Flowers Deadheading spent flowers keeps the plant tidy and encourages it to produce more flowers. Common Problems With Hibiscus Hibiscus is not difficult to grow however, there are some common problems to watch out for. Yellow Foliage If you see your plant's leaves turning yellow, it could be that you are subjecting it to sudden changes in weather conditions, not watering correctly, or not fertilizing often enough. Expect a little yellowing during the transitional seasons of spring and fall, but anything extreme merits further investigation. Dropping of Buds Extremes in temperature, insufficient light or humidity, and overwatering or underwatering can cause bud drop.

Covering a tree's roots above ground can limit the tree's access to oxygen and moisture which helps them grow and stay healthy. Avoid cutting, trimming, or removing tree roots because it can make the tree woody and unstable, especially during storms. To discourage root growth at the surface level, try using mulch to cover the roots, loosen compacted soil, or hire a pro arborist. Despite their seemingly breezy maintenance requirements, trees can be tricky to care for especially if not done properly—this also extends to their root systems. Is it better, for instance, to cover tree roots or leave them alone? To gather these answers and more, we reached out to an expert tree arborist to share their best insights. Meet the Expert Eric North is a certified arborist and urban forestry program manager at the Arbor Day Foundation, the world’s largest tree-planting nonprofit planting trees. Should You Cover Your Tree Roots Above Ground? No, you should not cover the tree’s roots. according to Eric North, a certified arborist and urban forestry program manager at the Arbor Day Foundation. “Oxygen and moisture are typically most available to tree roots in the open pore spaces of the upper soil, often in the upper 18 to 24 inches,” he explains. So, the deeper you go, the more compact the soil gets, which means less space for the oxygen and moisture tree roots need. If you cover the tree’s roots, the tree will only work harder to reach closer to the soil’s surface to reach water and nutrients. All the more reason not to cover your tree’s roots. “The exception to this is when soil erosion or any other disruption to the soil environment exposes fine roots that had been below the soil surface,” North explains. In cases such as these, you can add some soil to cover any newly exposed roots. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Don’t Cut Your Tree Roots But above all, don’t trim your tree’s roots. Avoid trimming, cutting, or removing tree roots when the tree is young or old. “As roots continue to age, they become woody and their primary role changes to providing energy storage and stability for the tree,” North says. So, damaging even old roots can kill the tree’s roots, result in a reduction in the tree’s growth, or lead to unstable trees that will need to be straightened or else may fall down during storms. What to Do Instead It’s normal for roots to want to be near the soil’s surface. North explains how when roots grow near or at the soil surface, it’s typically because that’s where the most ideal conditions exist. However, there are several things you can still do to discourage root growth at the surface level. Correct the soil conditions at the time of planting. Loosen compacted soil and add in some new organic matter (such as compost). Hire a certified professional arborist to improve compacted soils and encourage root growth below the soil surface. Professional arborists have tools that use pressurized air to blow away and loosen soil without minimal damage to existing roots. Cover the tree roots with mulch. This will help the soil retain moisture while remaining covered by the mulch. Are Exposed Roots a Sign of Good or Poor Tree Health? Trees have adapted to a wide range of conditions, and their roots spread out to help them find the most nutrients. Above-ground roots are not necessarily indicators of tree health, North says. However, they can be a reasonable indicator of soil conditions. “Surface roots frequently form when soils are heavily compacted or there is a high-water table,” North says. Both situations can impact your tree’s ability to gather water and nutrients. Are Some Trees More Prone to Above Soil Roots? Yes, some tree species are genetically prone to producing shallow roots, North says. This can include such species and varieties as Ficus, mountain spruces, and trees adapted to areas prone to flooding. “In this latter case, the shallow roots nature is likely an evolutionary adaptation to manage limited resources,” he says.

When the weather grows chilly and the days get short, you know pumpkin season has arrived. The quintessential fall crop, pumpkins are typically harvested when the rinds develop their mature coloration, or about 90 to 120 days after sowing. It can be difficult to know exactly when to harvest pumpkins since not all pumpkins turn orange at harvest time (and some varieties mature faster than others). If you’re perplexed by picking pumpkins, these tips will help you harvest sugary sweet pie pumpkins and sturdy carving pumpkins at the perfect time. When to Harvest Pumpkins Different pumpkin varieties mature at different rates, but most pumpkins are harvested from late August through October. To get a better idea of exactly when your pumpkins will be ready, take a look at your seed packet. Most pumpkins are harvested about 90 days after planting, but giant pumpkins and other slow growers can take over 160 days to ripen. 5 Signs Your Pumpkin Is Ready to Pick Pumpkins have a longer shelf life and a sweeter flavor if they’re allowed to fully ripen in the garden. But mature pumpkins can vary significantly in shape, size, and color, which can make it hard to know exactly when they’re ready to harvest. If you want to pick pumpkins at the right time, these signs of ripeness will let you know when your pumpkins are ready. They developed their mature color. While most people associate ripe pumpkins with the color orange, different pumpkin varieties may produce yellow, white, or even greenish-blue fruit! Knowing what color your pumpkins are supposed to be when mature will help you judge when your pumpkins are ripe. The vines are brown and dying. Pumpkins continue to grow as long as their vines are green. But when cold weather hits and the pumpkin vines start to brown and shrivel, it’s time to harvest! Rinds feel tough. Pumpkin rinds thicken as the fruit ages and fully ripe pumpkins should have leathery rinds that are difficult to pierce with your fingernail. Skin is dull. Underripe pumpkins often have glossy skins that catch the sunlight, while ripe pumpkins have dull, matte rinds. The sound is hollow. If you’ve ever knocked on a ripe pumpkin with your knuckles, you know they sound a bit hollow. That’s because pumpkins develop more interior air pockets when they reach a harvestable size. 6 Tips for Harvesting Pumpkins Pumpkins can be harvested one at a time as the fruit ripens, or you can harvest the entire plant in one go if the vine has started to die away. Here are a few tips to make harvesting even easier and protect your pumpkin crop from damage: Wear gloves. Pumpkins have prickly stems and leaves, which can irritate the skin if you don’t wear gloves when harvesting. Harvest on a sunny day. Although pumpkins can technically be harvested in any weather, harvesting pumpkins on a dry, sunny day helps pumpkins cure faster and keeps plant diseases from spreading. Make a clean cut. Fully ripe pumpkins often have dried stems that detach easily from the pumpkin vine. If the stems still feel sturdy, harvest your pumpkins with sharp pruners so you don’t accidentally damage the plant. Leave some stem. Pumpkin stems add a bit of charm, but they also prevent fungi and bacteria from seeping into pumpkins and causing rot. Be gentle. To avoid breaks and bruises, handle your pumpkins gently and never carry them by their stems. Pick pumpkins before a hard freeze. It’s best to leave pumpkins in the garden until they’re fully ripe, but pumpkins should always be harvested before a hard freeze. As long as the pumpkins have started to develop their mature color, they should ripen just fine indoors. How to Store Pumpkins While pumpkins can be eaten or carved immediately after harvesting, pumpkins intended for long-term storage should be cured to thicken up their skins and reduce the chances of rot. Before curing, rinse your pumpkins in a 10% bleach solution and allow them to air dry. Spread your harvest out in a single layer in a warm, dry, and protected spot, and allow the pumpkins to dry and cure for 1 to 2 weeks. After curing, store your pumpkins in a cool location, like a well-ventilated root cellar, or keep them outdoors on a covered porch. Pumpkins stay fresh longer if you store them out of direct sun and keep them in a cool spot that stays between 45 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Whole pumpkins also last longer than carved ones, so wait until just before Halloween to carve jack-o-lanterns.