Eucalyptus mostly enters our homes as cut branches that we use to add a nice smell to our homes. In nature eucalyptus (Eucalyptus cinerea) is an evergreen tree that grows up to 60 feet high in its natural Australian environment. (It's also a favorite food of koalas.) Planted in a home garden, it stays at 6 to 10 feet tall. Eucalyptus are best planted in spring and don't require any staking or other support structure. They have a fast growth rate and can gain several feet per year. It features reddish-brown bark and silvery, blue-green leaves. The bark, leaves, and sap of eucalyptus are toxic both to humans and pets. Eucalyptus Plant Care Here are the main care requirements for growing eucalyptus: Plant in well-draining soil with full sun exposure. Plant in a location with enough space to accommodate the tree’s full height and spread. (Multiple eucalyptus trees should be spaced at least 8 feet apart). Prefers warm temperatures. Harvest mature leaves and branches later in the growing season. Light Eucalyptus likes a lot of light, so place your plant somewhere that receives at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. Likewise, eucalyptus plants grown indoors should be kept near a bright window, preferably one that faces south. Soil Eucalyptus can tolerate most soil types, but it needs soil with good drainage. For container plants, use a well-draining potting mix. A slightly acidic to neutral soil pH is best. Water Eucalyptus is somewhat drought-tolerant once it's established. However, long periods of dryness may cause it to drop leaves. A good rule of thumb is to water when you can stick your finger into the soil and feel dryness at your fingertip. Temperature and Humidity Eucalyptus prefers warm temperatures between roughly 65°F and 75°F, and it likes a moderate humidity level. It cannot survive prolonged exposure to temperatures below 50°F. So if you're growing your plant in a container, bring it indoors when you expect chilly temperatures. Fertilizer If you're growing your plant in the ground, it typically won't need fertilizer. However, container plants will deplete their nutrients more quickly. So fertilize them with a low-nitrogen houseplant fertilizer throughout the growing season, following label instructions. Types of Eucalyptus In addition to Eucalyptus cinerea, there are hundreds of other eucalyptus species. They include: Eucalyptus globulus: Known as blue gum, this species features smooth bark and is particularly adaptable to a variety of growing conditions. Eucalyptus gunnii: Commonly referred to as cider gum, this species has better cold tolerance than most other eucalyptus species. Eucalyptus platypus: Commonly called moort, this is an especially hardy species that can tolerate heavy soils, cold, and drought. Pruning Eucalyptus trees generally don’t need much pruning. However, you can prune overgrown, broken, or misshapen branches to keep the plant looking attractive. The best time to do so is in the summer, but avoid pruning during very humid weather. Pruning Tip No pruners? No problem! We've tested over 10 top-rated pruners to help you choose the right one for your comfort and personal needs—there's an option for everyone. Propagating Eucalyptus Eucalyptus trees are most commonly grown from purchased seeds or nursery plants, but they can also be propagated via cuttings. The best time to take cuttings is when a tree is between 2 and 12 months old; rooting mature stems is difficult. Aim to take your cuttings in the late summer. Here’s how to grow eucalyptus from cuttings: Fill a small pot with a 3-1 mixture of composted tree bark and perlite, and add a slow-release fertilizer. Moisten the soil. Cut a stem that’s around 5 inches long with four to eight leaves. Cut just above a leaf node. Remove the leaves on the lower half of the cutting. Dip the cut end in a rooting hormone, and then plant it in the growing medium almost up to where the leaves are. Place the container in bright, indirect light in a room that’s around 70°F. Keep the soil lightly moist. Roots should form in about a month. Once roots have formed, move the plant to a sunnier spot and space out waterings. How to Grow Eucalyptus From Seed When considering how to grow eucalyptus from seed, note that the seeds first must be chilled in the refrigerator for two months before planting. Sow them in the late winter indoors roughly 10 to 12 weeks before your area’s last projected frost date. Use a seed-starting mix in peat pots that you’ll eventually be able to plant right into the soil to avoid disturbing the roots. Sow seeds on top of the growing medium, only lightly covering them. Place the pots in a warm spot with indirect bright light, and keep the growing medium moist but never soggy by misting it. Seeds should germinate in two to three weeks. Once the seedlings are about 6 inches tall, they’re ready to go outdoors. Potting and Repotting Eucalyptus Growing eucalyptus in a pot is a great option for gardeners who want to grow the plant outside of its hardiness zone. You can bring it indoors during winter. Eucalyptus plants don't like having their roots disturbed, so it's best to start with a large, 5-gallon container to avoid having to repot. Choose an unglazed clay or plastic pot with plenty of drainage holes. If you must repot, go with a pot 2 inches wider than the previous. Overwintering If you’re growing a container eucalyptus plant outside of its hardiness zones, you must bring it indoors to survive the winter. Do not let your plant be exposed to frost, which can damage or kill the foliage. Place it near your brightest window, preferably a southern-facing one, for the winter. Do not fertilize the plant, and slightly back off on watering. Harvesting Eucalyptus Leaves It is best to wait until late in the growing season to harvest eucalyptus. If you just want the leaves, simply snip them off with pruners or by hand. Air-dry them on a paper towel or drying screen in a cool spot out of direct sunlight. Wait until the leaves are slightly leathery or crispy, and then store them in glass jars with tightly sealed lids. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Eucalyptus plants are fairly free of any major pest or disease issues. But you might occasionally spot eucalyptus long-horned borers, especially on stressed plants. Holes in the bark, oozing sap, and foliage discoloration are signs of an infestation. Remove the infested area of the plant immediately, as insecticides are not effective against borers. Eucalyptus can be prone to leaf spots, which can appear black on the underside of the leaves and brown on the upper side; cankers; and root rot. The trees are also susceptible to heart rot, which is when the center of the tree begins to rot and decay, extending to the branches as well. Once heart rot occurs, it is impossible to save the tree as the fungus weakens and softens the inside, causing permanent damage. The tree will need to be removed. Common Problems With Eucalyptus Eucalyptus trees remain relatively healthy when in their preferred environment. However, in suboptimal conditions, they can come down with certain issues. Leaves Turning Brown Leaves turning brown on a eucalyptus tree can be a sign of too little moisture. That’s likely the issue if you notice leaves curling up or dropping as well. In that case, up your watering to keep the soil lightly moist but not soggy. Brown leaves also can be a sign of disease, especially fungal diseases. If just a small area is affected, remove that portion promptly. Or treat with an appropriate fungicide. Falling Branches Due to their prospective size and height, eucalyptus trees can become very heavy, causing their branches to fall or break.

Winter may feel more like a month of hibernation, but it's perfectly possible to enjoy gardening and see a few green shoots well before spring rolls around. One of the best ways to do this is by propagating and growing herbs indoors. Whether you're interested in growing basil for your favorite dishes or would like the calming fragrance of lavender in your home, we spoke with two gardening experts to get their best advice on propagating herbs during winter. Use Softwood Cuttings First, you're going to need cuttings to get your indoor herb garden started. "For herbs like basil, thyme and oregano, I would recommend to use softwood cuttings, not hard, so that one can actually succeed at getting those plants started," says master gardener Kim Butler. The same can be said for lavender and rosemary. If you don't already have cuttings, it's better to wait for spring. "They don't propagate well from hardwood cuttings, which is usually all that's available in the winter months," says gardening expert Ren Elizabeth. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Keep Your Cuttings Warm You're not the only one who appreciates a cozy home during winter—your herb cuttings will love and thrive in this kind of environment, too. "Herbs develop roots a lot faster if they are kept around 70ºF," Elizabeth says. To maintain this temperature, she suggests using a heat mat, or putting them near your radiator or wood stove. Not only does this give your plants a better chance of survival but it cuts down on the possibility of rotting, too. Be a Mindful Propagator Some herbs are easier to grow than others, and practice makes perfect, as does knowing certain plant behaviors. Even the simplest herbs to grow can have their fair share of challenges—like mint. While you may want to move these herbs outside come springtime, Elizabeth warns against putting mint to raised beds or directly into the ground. "It really will take over and it is really difficult to stop its spread," Elizabeth says. The best way to keep herbs in check is to do your research. Invest in a Grow Light Because winter is darker and colder than spring and summer, having a little supplementary light can help support your cuttings. Propagated herbs need the energy from a light source in order to grow and thrive, just as newly planted seeds might. In order to support your plants, you can invest in true grow lights, or get creative like Elizabeth does. "I use LED shop lights that I have mounted on a metal shelving unit," she explains. "While shop lights don't emit a focused light spectrum like grow lights do, they are very affordable to buy and are energy efficient." Opt for Water Propagation There are a few different ways you can propagate plants, but Butler recommends using a water propagation method by "placing the cuttings in a clear jar at room temperature with the leaves above the water." It's a relatively simple way to get your herbs going and doesn't require any soil from the get-go. However, Elizabeth says to keep an eye out for algae growth. She's found that her water-bound cuttings are often prone to algae. "In order to keep this at a minimum, I change the water a few times a week," Elizabeth says. Add Some Honey Part of propagating and growing herbs indoors is waiting. It takes some time to see growth and get your herbs to a point where they can be planted and harvested. "I sometimes add honey to stimulate the process," Butler says. But she also adds that you shouldn't "use nutrients until they have properly established roots." Keep a System Going Year-Round Winter propagation is totally doable, but it's smart to have a system and routine in place all year long to keep your plants healthy and keep an abundance of herbs coming in. "[I] regularly prune them, rotate my pots, and sometimes move them outdoors for some air, and use those cuttings to start new plants," Butler says. Elizabeth also encourages taking more cuttings than you usually would—especially for this colder season. "By giving yourself an extra cutting or two, you're countering some of the decline in rooting rate that you'll normally experience in the winter," she says. Know Specific Plants' Needs While there are some general herb care guidelines, each plant has its own needs. It's smart to read up on the specific herbs you want to propagate and grow so you know how to best care for them. For example, Elizabeth notes that oregano is hardy and "does well being propagated by division nearly year-round." Thyme, on the other hand, does best when it's layered under dirt in the soil. Knowing what different herbs like will lead to far more success when creating your own herb garden this winter.

Radishes (Raphanus sativus) are notorious for their fast production, growing from seed to harvest in as little as 21 to 30 days. While red, round radishes are the most commonly conjured, radishes come in all sorts of shapes, sizes, and colors. Depending on the variety, they can be spherical or oblong like a carrot, and might be red, green, white, pink, purple, or yellow. If you're a beginner gardener, this quick-growing root vegetable is a perfect place to start your growing journey. For a successful harvest, follow these tips for how to grow and harvest radishes. How to Grow Radishes Radishes grow best when directly sown in cooler conditions, and can be grown in spring and fall. You can plant radish seeds as soon as the soil can be worked. Allow about one inch between seeds in the row. Many radish varieties mature very quickly; to ensure you have an ongoing supply of radishes and don't just harvest them all at once, sow seeds weekly (a gardening technique known as succession planting). Once spring temperatures reach 65 degrees, stop planting radish seeds, as heat will cause them to bolt, which means the plant is going to seed. If your radishes don't form roots, that could be a sign that there is excessive nitrogen in the soil—do a soil test to confirm. A rapid onset of hot weather or overcrowded garden beds could also be the cause. Make sure your radishes have ample room to grow and mature fully How to Know When a Radish Is Ready to Be Harvested It can be challenging to know when it's the right time to harvest root vegetables like radishes. After all, they grow underground and aren't as easy to observe as cucumbers or tomatoes. However, there are a few signs to look for to be sure your radishes are ready to be harvested. You're within the window of time in which that radish variety reaches maturity. (Different varieties have different growing times, so be sure to check the seed packet to confirm.) The above-ground radish greens are four to six inches tall. In general, the roots should be about around one inch in diameter, which you should be able to tell by the shoulders of the radish emerging above the soil. How to Harvest Radishes Once you're certain that your radishes have reached maturity, you'll want to harvest them. Don't wait too long; you want to pick them at the right time for peak flavor and texture. If they stay in the ground too long, they will get fibrous and develop a strong, unpleasant taste. Using your finger or a small garden trowel, scrape away the soil above the radish root. If it is one inch in diameter, it's ready to be harvested. Grab the radish at the base of its greens and pull straight up. You may need to gently wiggle it to loosen it from the soil, but it should emerge easily. Separate the root from the greens. If left attached, the leaves will draw out moisture and nutrients from the radish bulb. Wash each radish under cool, running water and rinse the radish greens, if keeping. Store radishes in an airtight, resealable container in the refrigerator's vegetable crisper drawer for one to two weeks.

Tomato plants (Solanum lycopersicum) are beloved by gardeners, with over 10,000 possible types to grow.1 These leafy annuals grow juicy, flavorful fruits in shades of red, yellow, orange, purple, pink, brown, and green. Plant tomatoes in late spring or early summer once all danger of frost has passed. Depending on the variety, tomatoes can be ready to harvest anywhere from 42 to 110 days from germination. Here's a guide for how to grow tomato plants, including finding the best planting location, care requirements, and harvesting. How to Plant Tomatoes When to Plant Plant tomato seedlings outdoors after all danger of frost has passed and night temperatures are consistently above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Store-bought and home-grown seedlings need to be hardened off before planting outdoors. When the weather is warm enough, begin hardening off the seedlings by bringing them outdoors in the shade for a few hours each day, gradually increasing how much light they receive and their time outdoors. Once night temperatures are consistently above 50 degrees, you can transplant tomato seedlings outdoors. Where to Plant Choose a well-drained planting site with loamy soil and eight hours of direct sunlight daily. Practice crop rotation: wait three years before planting tomatoes in a bed where you've grown other crops in the nightshade family (tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes, peppers, and tomatillos) to help keep plants disease-free. Water tomato plants well before planting. How to Plant Plant tomatoes 18 to 24 inches apart, three to four feet between rows, for proper airflow.2 Indeterminate varieties need more space than determinate varieties because they don't stop growing until frost kills the plant. Check seed packets and seedling tags for spacing guidelines for your plant varieties. To transplant tomato seedlings, dig a planting hole deep enough so the soil line is below the bottom-most healthy leaves. Planting deeply means digging the planting hole deep enough that 2/3 of the main stem is buried underground. Remove a few sets of the bottom leaves to create a longer stem. Only 1/3 of the plant should be visible above ground. The stem will develop roots from any part buried in the soil, which leads to extra-strong plants. A bigger root system means your plants can absorb more water and nutrients, resulting in a healthier plant that is less susceptible to drought, disease, and attack by tomato pests. How to Start Seeds Indoors Start tomatoes from seed indoors six to eight weeks before your region's first frost date. Fill seed trays with soilless seed starting mix and moisten the soil well. Plant tomato seeds a quarter-inch deep and cover them with soil. Put the trays in a warm place under a grow light. When the seedlings are two to three inches tall, pot them up into three-inch pots, burying them up to the lowest leaves. How to Grow Tomato Plants in Pots Because they grow only to a specific size, determinate tomatoes (sometimes called bush tomatoes) are ideal for container planting, although some indeterminate types are bred for pot planting. Use a high-quality soilless potting mix that's light and drains well while holding onto necessary moisture. Mix in organic compost before planting to add fertility. Use 14- to 20-inch pots with ample drainage holes; the larger, the better. Tomatoes planted in containers generally benefit from cages or other supports. Keep them well-watered because container plants dry out more quickly in hot weather than in-ground plants. Tomato Plant Care Light Tomatoes require eight hours or more of direct sunlight daily to grow, flower, and fruit. In warmer regions like the southern United States, tomatoes might benefit from afternoon shade during the hottest times. Soil Plant tomatoes in a site with rich, well-drained soil. Choose a spot with soil that is slightly acidic loam or sandy loam. Work organic matter into the soil in the autumn or a few weeks before you plan to plant. Water Water tomato plants regularly to ensure they receive at least one inch per week. Consistent watering will help produce the best-quality fruit. Apply water directly to the soil at the plant's root zone rather than sprinkling water overhead and wetting the foliage. Keeping the foliage dry will reduce the chance of fungal diseases. Mulching with organic material like hay, straw, or grass clippings not treated with pesticides can help retain soil moisture.3 Temperature and Humidity Tomatoes can grow well at various humidity levels but need warm temperatures to survive and thrive. Temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit can stunt growth and damage the plant's ability to produce flowers and fruit. Daytime temperatures above 85 degrees can cause blossom drop4, but you can help plants withstand the heat by mulching the soil around plants and keeping them well watered. Fertilizer Tomato plants require nutrient-rich soil to grow and produce healthy fruit. To ensure your tomato plants receive the nutrients they need, a soil test can help you determine the soil contents, lacking nutrients, and the type of fertilizer your soil needs for good tomato growth. If the soil is rich and fertile or has enough organic matter or compost before planting, you might not need to apply additional fertilizer throughout the growing season.3 However, tomato plants usually benefit from fertilizer application at several different points in their growth cycle. To encourage more flowering and fruiting rather than foliage growth, choose a fertilizer that's higher in phosphorous and lower in nitrogen.5 Pollination Tomatoes are self-fertile, meaning you don't need more than one plant for pollination. Movement from the wind is usually adequate to ensure pollination. However, adding a few summer-blooming annuals to the vegetable beds is ideal to attract pollinators such as bees and other insects. In high tunnels or greenhouses, growers use strategies like tapping tomato cages or stakes to help move pollen from the male to the female parts of the flower.6 However, a few different issues can cause pollination issues. High daytime temperatures (over 90 degrees F) and low night temperatures (under 50 degrees F) can inhibit pollination and cause blooms to drop before they can set fruit. Insufficient water can also cause issues with flowering and pollination, and so can applying fertilizer that is too high in nitrogen, which causes plants to put energy toward foliage growth instead of flowering and fruiting.7 Types of Tomato Plants Tomatoes are treasured for their taste and nutritional benefits, which include phytochemicals and nutrients like lycopene, potassium, iron, folate, vitamin C, and other antioxidants.8 There are thousands of tomato varieties, including lower classifications, from heirlooms to hybrids.1 Tomato plant growth habits are also divided into two main categories: determinate and indeterminate. Determinate Tomato Plants Determinate tomatoes mature relatively early, growing to a mature size of three to four feet tall. All fruit on the plant ripens within roughly two weeks, and then plants die back. Because determinate tomato plants are usually compact, they're great for container growing and don't require heavy staking as indeterminate tomatoes do. Determinate tomatoes are often used for sauce and canning. Other determinate types are: Roma: This plum tomato produces heavy yields of medium, rich red, meaty fruit. Celebrity (Solanum lycopersicum 'Celebrity'): Determinate celebrity tomatoes are disease-resistant and prolific, with the added bonus that they fruit from when plants reach their mature size until frost. But unlike indeterminate tomatoes, they don't keep growing larger as the season progresses. Rutgers: This heirloom variety, in production since 1934, produces bright red fruit with heavy walls and great disease resistance. It ripens evenly, inside and out, making it an easy-care cultivar that is equally delicious, fresh, cooked, or preserved. Marglobe: This variety is adaptable to various soils and produces thick-walled fruit. It is very good to eat fresh or canned. Indeterminate Tomato Plants Indeterminate tomatoes include most cherry tomato varieties, heirloom tomatoes, and beefsteak tomatoes. Instead of growth stopping once fruit sets, indeterminate tomatoes will keep growing and fruiting until the first fall frost kills the plant. Because they keep growing, they require sturdy staking and regular pruning. They're also better suited to in-ground planting. Here are a few popular varieties: Better Boy (Solanum lycopersicum 'Better Boy'): This popular indeterminate slicing tomato offers disease resistance, relatively early harvest, and sizeable one-pound fruits. Yellow Pear (Solanum lycopersicum 'Yellow Pear'): Known for its clusters of sweet, pear-shaped yellow tomatoes, this indeterminate variety dates back to the early 19th century. Green Zebra (Solanum lycopersicum' Green Zebra'): A cross between four different heirloom tomatoes, this indeterminate "heirloom hybrid" is prized for its bright flavor and chartreuse color. Pink Brandywine (Solanum lycopersicum 'Brandywine'): This indeterminate, easy-to-grow heirloom offers hefty, flavorful fruits in a beautiful blush shade. Varieties of Tomatoes: Early Season, Mid-Season, and Late-Season Another factor to consider when choosing tomato varieties is how long it takes for fruits to mature and be ready to harvest. Early-season varieties will grow ripe, ready-to-harvest fruit in 42 to 70 days. Mid-season tomatoes mature in around 70 to 80 days, while late-season varieties take 80 to 110 days to mature. Pruning Pruning tomatoes can offer several benefits, such as earlier harvests, disease resistance, and larger fruits. It's recommended to pinch or prune away the suckers—shoots that grow out of the axils where leaves meet stems—in indeterminate tomato varieties. This allows plants to direct energy towards fruiting rather than excess leaf growth and keeps plants tidier and generally easier to maintain. While determinate varieties are not always pruned, plants can develop stronger stems if you remove suckers that grow below the lowest flower.5 Harvesting Tomatoes Harvest tomatoes when fruits have fully colored, with a firm yet supple texture and healthy size for their variety. Ripe tomatoes will have smooth, shiny skin. Use scissors or pruners to cut stems when harvesting because pulling fruits off the vine can damage the plant. When a frost is forecast, remove all fruit from in-ground plants. Propagating Tomato Plants You can use the suckers you remove from your plants to propagate new plants.9 Desuckering and Rooting Tomatoes. Clemson Cooperative Extension. Here's how: Pinch or prune off a good-sized sucker from a mature tomato plant. Remove the leaves on the lower half of the sucker stem. Poke a hole in the soil nearby, leaving adequate space between plantings. Plant the sucker in the hole. Roots will grow along the portion of the sucker's stem that is below the soil line. When you see new growth, you'll know the sucker has rooted. You can leave it in place or dig it up and relocate it to another area of your garden. Care for the plant as you would any tomato plant. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Tomatoes can fall prey to diseases and garden pests. Plant disease-resistant varieties and prevent issues with crop rotation, applying water to the soil and root zone rather than wetting the foliage with overhead watering, cutting away lower branches that might come into contact with soil, pruning suckers, and giving plants adequate space to enable airflow. Tomato diseases can be fatal if you don't identify, treat, and try to prevent them from occurring. Treat insects like aphids by spraying them off with water or treating plants with neem or horticultural oil. Some pests, like tomato hornworms, must be picked off by hand.