Mums are one of the most popular fall flowers for their beautiful red, brown, yellow and pink blooms that perfectly encapsulate fall. But of course, sometimes no matter how hard you try, flowers have a mind of their own and may dry out or die before you can even enjoy them. Here are the four most common issues with mums and how to tackle them. Mum Leaves Are Turning Yellow If you are noticing your mums not looking as good as your next-door neighbors, you aren't alone. While mums are certainly tough and can withstand a lot of outdoor factors, they can wilt, shrivel up and not bloom just like any other flower or plant. But don't fret, we've got you covered so your mums can get the care they deserve and start looking as good as new. If you're noticing your mums leaves are discolored and turning from a bright green to an unsightly yellow color, it could be mildew on your mums. To help reverse this, as soon as you notice the discoloring of the mums, dust your mums with finely ground sulfur. Then, repeat this step once a week until buds turn a better color.1 Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Flowers Are Turning Brown If you notice your mums drying out and turning from beautiful blooms to an unsightly brown or rust color, it's time to water, water, and water some more. Mums hate being dry and need a ton of moisture to keep looking fresh all day long. When grown in pots on your stoop, on hot days in early fall, it's common for mums to need water twice a day. When they are dehydrated, their leaves will start to droop, which you don't want at all. Fortunately, water will for the most part perk them up almost instantly.2 Mums Are Looking Untidy and Wilting Another common issue for mums is them looking disheveled and not as neat from when you first bought them. Mums can quickly go from looking perfect, to many blooms looking out of place, disorderly, and wilting. Luckily, this common issue is so easy to fix. Make sure to trim back any flowers that are looking depleted, and be sure to prune any dried up leaves or broken stems.3 Mums Aren't Blooming The last common problem is the worst of all: noticing your mums aren't blooming at all. This could actually be because of the kind of mum you purchased. There are thousands of varieties of mums and some are best for early season of fall versus the late season of fall. If your mums aren't blooming, you may have picked the variety of mums that require a longer period of darkness. Then, if the temperatures plummet, there's no way they will survive the cold. Another possibility is that the dark period your plants are being exposed to is being interrupted. This happens a lot when mums are planted or placed near street or front porch lights. These lights interrupt the darkness that your mums needs to thrive and can delay flower production.

Every gardener growing tomatoes waits for that first juicy, fresh, off-the-vine bite. When the wait seems to go on forever and fruits stay green for weeks, it could be that they aren't getting enough sun. Tomato plants need full sun, or closer to eight hours consistently every day, through all growth stages. When your tomatoes refuse to turn red, they could be getting too little sun. Here's what to know about how much sun tomatoes need, and our best advice on how to get them the light they need to give you the growth you want. Light Requirements for Tomatoes Though tomatoes will have different requirements for light depending on the growth stage, they need 6–8 hours of direct sunlight a day to produce the juiciest fruit—this is considered "full sun." Finding the perfect place to plant tomatoes takes some planning, as light exposure plays a major role through all stages of plant growth. In the early stages, poor light with high temperatures can decrease flower and fruit production, increase vulnerability to fungal and leaf spot diseases, and lead to pests. Later, not enough light produces straggly weak vines and small, poor-quality fruits. During fruit development, too much sun leads to a poor harvest with fruits vulnerable to sunscald, cracking, and uneven ripening. Vegetative Stage During the first 30 to 45 days after transplant, tomato plants grow vines and leaves. This is called the vegetative stage and may be a little shorter or longer depending on variety. Vines grow rapidly and use a lot of nutrients. Since nutrients are delivered through photosynthesis which is dependent on energy from light, a minimum six hours of bright, direct sun is needed during early growth. Flower/Early Fruit Stage Between 30 and 45 days you should begin to see small yellow flowers open on your plants. In this stage light energy supports flowering and fruit set. Small fruits start to form between 70 and 100 days depending on variety. Six hours of light is adequate and eight hours can boost fruit production. Excess heat begins to enter the equation and temperatures above 85 to 90 degrees can reduce flower production and fruit development. Ripening Stage Temperature becomes more important during the ripening phase about 30 days after fruit appears. Lycopene and carotene are pigments that give tomatoes their red color. Ideal temperatures for pigment to develop is 70 to 75 degrees F. When temperatures exceed 85 to 90 degrees F., pigment production is reduced and may even stop. Grown and cared for correctly, foliage shades fruits which takes heat out of direct sunlight for more uniform ripening. Six to eight hours is still needed to maintain healthy plants, especially with indeterminate varieties that produce fruit all season long. Why Morning and Afternoon Light Is Crucial Morning and afternoon light are both important for tomato growth. In the morning, the sun is high overhead, shining directly on the garden. At noon it reaches its highest point during daylight hours. This is when it is strongest, producing the greatest amount of energy.1 Morning light is important because it dries dew, decreases nutrient loss through evaporation, and initiates photosynthesis. Afternoon sun exposure extends the daily energy and growth cycle, giving tomatoes the sunlight quantity they need. The Best Tips to Make Sure Tomatoes Get Enough Sun Plant tomato varieties that grow well in your specific growing zone and climate. Mulch to lower soil temperature and improve moisture retention. Orient your plants in an east to west direction to access the first sunlight in the morning and throughout the day. Consider geographic features that reduce light availability or create microclimates. Avoid pruning or removing leaves during fruit formation and ripening. Plant corn or pole beans on the western side for protection from the hot afternoon sun. Leave adequate space between plants for good air circulation. Consider using white shade cloth which reduces heat but doesn't affect light quality.2 Harvest fruit early as soon as it shows color and keep in a shaded area to finish ripening.

One of the most powerful garden scents of spring comes from hyacinth flowers (Hyacinthus orientalis) in bloom. Even at a distance, you'll notice these flowers' intense fragrance and the spikes of bright tubular flowers emerging from strap-shaped leaves. Introduced to Europe during the 16th century, hyacinth's popularity sparked Dutch bulb growers to breed more than 2,000 cultivars by the 18th century, and today there are about 60 to choose from in commercial cultivation. Modern hyacinths are some of the easiest-to-grow perennial spring bulbs. Hyacinths will return every year, though their flowers will diminish in vigor after a few seasons. They are best planted in the fall and have a moderate growth rate. Hyacinths can grow outdoors in the ground or pots, as well as indoors in a bulb vase filled with water. Keep them out of the reach of kids and critters as the bulbs are toxic to humans and pets. Hyacinth Care Here are the main care requirements for growing hyacinth: Plant in a slightly acidic to neutral soil in full sun to partial shade. Water well after the bulbs are planted, but allow the ground to dry before the next watering. Bulbs can be fertilized upon planting. Grow hyacinth in large groups for the strongest and farthest-reaching scent. Planting Most varieties of hyacinth bulbs are fairly large. For spring garden blooms, plant hyacinth bulbs in the fall six to eight weeks before the first frost (between October and December). They should be placed root end down (widest side down) about 4 to 6 inches deep. Give them some room to spread out by spacing them about 3 to 6 inches apart. Cover with soil, and water well. Light Hyacinths like full sun to partial shade. Aim to give the plants at least six to eight hours of sunlight a day. As with all spring bulbs, hyacinths sprout, bloom, and start to fade before deciduous trees fully leaf out, so you don't have to worry about too much shade from nearby trees. Soil Hyacinth bulbs are not particular about soil pH, but they prefer a slightly acidic to neutral soil. They also do best in soil that is loose and well-drained; they will not tolerate wet soils. Rich soil can lead to floppy stalks, so go easy on the organic matter when preparing or amending the soil. Water Water the ground well after you plant the bulbs. Continue watering into winter if there is no regular rain, but allow the ground to dry out between watering. If the bulbs sit in cool, wet soil, they will eventually rot. Check the ground by sticking your finger in, and water only when it's totally dry. Usually, this is once or twice a week, depending on your climate. Generally speaking, about 1/2 inch of water per week—combined irrigation and rainfall—will be sufficient for hyacinths. But this depends on how well the soil drains. Temperature and Humidity Hyacinths can be expected to survive the winter in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 to 8. They might need some winter protection in colder zones and some pre-chilling in warmer zones, depending on the variety. In zones where winter temperatures remain above 60 degrees Fahrenheit, dig up the bulbs and chill them somewhere dark and cold for six to 10 weeks before replanting. Fertilizer The easiest way to feed new bulbs is to toss some bulb food into the hole at planting time. There are many fertilizers available for feeding bulbs—10-10-10 is recommended—or you can use an ordinary bone meal. Feed the bulbs a mere handful at planting and again in the spring when the new growth first appears by scratching some bulb food into the nearby soil and watering well. For the amount to use, follow the product label instructions. Types of Hyacinth Modern hyacinths come in many colors. Some varieties include: 'Hollyhock': Offers striking reddish-pink double blooms 'Pink Pearl': Has fuchsia petals that are edged in pale pink 'Woodstock': Boasts deep plum petals 'Blue Jacket': Features a denser bloom structure and deep purple-blue flowers 'Top White': Offers bright white florets that are star-shaped 'City of Haarlem': This heirloom variety has been popular since the late 1800s and features yellow petals that mature to a pale yellow-creamy white. How to Force Hyacinth Bulbs It’s possible to force hyacinth bulbs indoors into early blooming. Simply plant a bulb in a container filled with well-draining potting mix, ensuring that the container also has drainage holes. The bulb tip should be just above the soil line. Place the container in a dark spot that remains between 33 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Allow it to sit there for at least 10 weeks as roots develop. Green shoots will also start to grow. Once the shoots grow to around an inch, start to slowly increase light and warmth. Water to keep the soil lightly moist but never waterlogged, and avoid hitting the shoots when watering. Once the plant has buds, move it to a sunny window with bright, indirect light to wait for your flowers to open. Pruning Once the bulbs have finished blooming, cut off the flower stalks but allow the leaves to remain. This will encourage the plants to store energy in their bulbs for next season. Propagating Hyacinth Like most perennial bulbs, hyacinths are best propagated by splitting offset bulbs from the parent plant in the fall. This method can take two or three years before the bulblet grows to a size sufficient to produce large, vibrant flowers. Thus, propagating hyacinths is an activity best practiced by serious enthusiasts. Here's how to propagate hyacinths by splitting off the offset bulbs: After the flowers have faded but before the foliage has begun to turn brown (usually in late summer or fall), dig up a mature hyacinth with a trowel. Make sure to wear gloves when handling hyacinths, as the bulbs have toxins that can cause skin irritation. Wash off the soil, and separate the clump into individual bulbs—the parent bulb and bulblets. Replant the bulbs immediately into well-draining soil. Mixing in sand or compost is a good idea if your soil is dense. A handful of bone meal or bulb fertilizer is also recommended at planting time. How to Grow Hyacinth From Seed While hyacinths can be propagated from seed, it can take several years to coax the seed into creating a bulb and to nurture the bulb into a sizable structure that will produce a flowering plant. First, you’ll have to allow your hyacinth blooms to remain on the plant to form seed pods. These pods will ripen from green to tan as they form small black seeds inside. The pods will dry and split open; you can catch the seeds by putting a white sheet under the plant or wrapping pantyhose around the flowers themselves. Separate the seeds, and soak them in warm water for one to two days. Place them between two moist paper towels in a plastic bag, and put them in the refrigerator to sprout. Once they’ve sprouted, slightly press them into a seed tray filled with moist seed-starting mix, and place them in a cold frame or greenhouse to continue growing. Potting and Repotting Hyacinth When planting in pots, either plastic or clay will do as long as they have good drainage. The container should be roughly 6 inches deep. The width of the container depends on how many bulbs you are planting. Hyacinth bulbs in pots can be spaced more closely than when planted in the ground because the bulbs won't need room to multiply. You can squeeze them in so they are almost touching, but leave room for some soil in between to hold water. Repotting should not be necessary if you have properly spaced your bulbs. Ordinary commercial potting soil is fine for planting hyacinths in containers, though some people like to blend in a little sand with the potting mix. Keep the potting medium damp but not soaking wet until the bulbs sprout. Then, water whenever the soil dries out. Once the bulbs have sprouted, move them to indirect sunlight. Cool temperatures will keep them in bloom longer. Overwintering In colder zones (USDA zones 2 and 3), applying a thick layer of mulch over the bulb bed can allow hyacinth bulbs to survive cold winters. You also can position the bulbs an inch or two deeper at the time of planting to help insulate them. In zones 4 to 8, no winter protection should be necessary. However, if your hyacinths are outdoors in containers, cover them or move them to a sheltered spot to prevent the containers from accumulating too much moisture and rotting the bulbs. If you are growing hyacinths in zone 9 or above, where winter temperatures stay above 60 degrees Fahrenheit, you will need to dig up your bulbs and chill them artificially before replanting. Store them in a mesh bag in a cool, dark spot that remains above freezing but below 45 degrees Fahrenheit for 10 weeks minimum. Common Pests & Plant Diseases All kinds of rodents will munch on hyacinth bulbs. You can give them some protection by throwing a handful of gravel into the planting hole, or you can try commercial rodent deterrents. An easier method is to interplant them with daffodils, which rodents tend to avoid.5 Few plant diseases affect hyacinths, but the bulbs can rot when planted in dense soil that doesn't drain well. How to Get Hyacinth to Bloom Bloom Months Hyacinth typically blooms in mid-spring, between March and April. Blooms can last for a few weeks, usually until the end of April and sometimes May. What Does Hyacinth's Flowers Look and Smell Like? Hyacinth flowers feature long, bright green leaves and bell-shaped petals. The bright tubular flowers that come in many colors such as white, blue, purple, pink, and red. The blooms have a sweet floral scent that can be powerful. Hyacinth also mix well with other spring-blooming bulbs, as they come in so many colors and sizes. Their spiky flower stalks make a nice counterpoint to cup-shaped tulips and ruffled daffodils. How to Encourage More Blooms Hyacinth bulbs are generally low-maintenance and bloom quite easily on their own in the spring. That being said, you can give yours a leg up by cutting down the flower stalk when this year's blooms fade. Then, when its leaves turn yellow, cut them away as well. Feed them once they bloom, and again in August, to give them a boost for the following spring. But be aware that most gardeners find it necessary to replant hyacinths (or lift and divide them) every two or three years to keep them blooming robustly. Like many hybrid bulbs, hyacinths lose their vigor rather quickly. Common Problems With Hyacinth The hyacinth is a reliable plant that will give you several years of aromatic blooms, but occasionally there are unfortunate issues. Spotted Foliage If you've had a late frost after the foliage has appeared, hyacinth leaves can develop disfiguring spots. Sadly, there is not much you can do about it, but in some cases, it will not affect the flower stalks that later appear. Broken, Streaked Petals Broken and streaked petals can be caused by the mosaic virus, which also can cause mottled leaves. Infected plants will need to be dug up and thrown away. Sterilize any tools you use to do this; they, too, can spread the disease. Small Flowers It is normal for hyacinths to bloom less robustly with every subsequent season. You can prolong their lifespan by regular feeding. Propagating new plants by dividing mature hyacinths can keep you in blooming plants almost indefinitely. Taller varieties can tend to flop. You can stake them if you only have a few, or plant them closer together so that they support one another.

You should start tomatoes indoors five to eight weeks before planting in the ground, which should be after the last frost. Consult your USDA growing zone to find out when your last frost date is, as tomatoes won't survive those temperatures. Also plant seedlings with enough space between them, and add support structures early. Fresh tomatoes are a juicy end-of-summer delight. With a wide growth range from 60 to 100 days, it can be hard to determine when to plant tomatoes. To answer that question, we spoke with organic vegetable gardening expert Adam Weiss, founder of Pike Lane Gardens. Best Time to Plant Tomatoes You should generally begin to grow tomatoes in the spring to avoid the last frost of the year. It's best to plant tomatoes in two stages, says master gardener Adam Weiss. In the first stage, the seeds are planted indoors. In the second stage, the seedlings are transplanted outdoors. Space the planting stages from five to eight weeks apart. When to Plant Tomatoes Indoors When planting your tomatoes starting from seeds, they should be started indoors five to eight weeks before you plant them in the ground, Weiss says. There is a specific reason why tomato seeds are started indoors, according to Weiss. "Tomatoes are a warm-weather vegetable," he says. "If you planted the seeds in your garden or container in early summer, it would take a considerable amount of time—about five to eight weeks for the seed to germinate and another five to seven weeks for the tomato plant to grow to a seedling." Planting the tomato that way throws off the plant's growing schedule. Weiss says that if you planted in May, you would already be in late July by the time the plant started growing. The plant may still produce tomatoes, but not in abundance. Because your harvest time has been condensed, you'll get a limited harvest quantity of tomatoes. When to Plant Tomatoes Outdoors To pinpoint when you should plant tomatoes, Weiss suggests looking at outside temperatures rather than the calendar. Tomatoes are a summer vegetable, he says, and should be planted in your garden or container once the outdoor temperatures begin to warm. Tomatoes must avoid frost. "Ideally, the soil temperature should be close to 70°F for the seedlings to be planted," Weiss says. That recommendation applies only to planting tomatoes in the ground outdoors, not indoors. "It is much more challenging to plant tomato seeds outdoors directly," says Weiss. "There are several weather variables that could either dry or flood the seed before it even germinates." Frost Dates for Planting Tomatoes Because tomatoes must avoid frost, consult your local United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) hardiness zone to learn the last and first frost dates for each year. A frost date is when air temperatures dip to 32°F (freezing) or below. There are ways to protect plants from frost, such as adding cloches, row covers, cold frames, or container wraps. Yet with tomatoes, the safest way to protect them is to avoid frost conditions altogether. Tips for Planting and Growing Tomatoes Sungolds, cherry tomatoes, beefsteaks, or green zebras? Regardless of the variety of tomato you love planting, Weiss offers these tips for the perfect harvest: Add enough space: Tomatoes need at least 24 inches between each plant to allow for ample sunlight, strong root development, and space. This helps minimize potential disease and pests. Plant fewer tomatoes if you don’t have the space. Plant seedlings: Always plant your tomatoes as seedlings to maximize your harvesting process. Plant seedlings deeply: Place your tomato plant deeper into the ground than other seedlings, at least 6 inches deep. You can bury the plant under the ground until the first set of leaves. This lower stem will develop additional roots, which will improve the health of your plant. Add structure early: Well before planting tomatoes, decide what type of trellis you want: tomato cage, stake, or another supporting structure. The structure must be in place before the tomato grows, as adding it later can damage the plant. Water deeply: Tomato roots grow deep within the ground, so water deeply two to three times a week at the base of each plant. Weiss suggests slowly counting to 20 while watering each tomato plant to measure the correct amount of water.