Although many people associate hibiscus with tropical or subtropical regions, it also grows in temperate climates throughout the world. The large Hibiscus genus of over 200 species and many more cultivars includes annuals, perennials, shrubs, and small trees. The large, trumpet-shaped flowers of up to 12 inches in diameter are common to all hibiscus—they are the main attraction of this popular ornamental. The flowers come in a kaleidoscope of bright colors from white to pink, red, blue, orange, peach, yellow, and purple. All hibiscus flowers are very attractive to butterflies and hummingbirds. The care and growing requirements vary from species to species. Hibiscus Care The care you provide your hibiscus will vary depending on whether it is a hardy or tropical variety and whether it is grown indoors or outdoors. Here are the main care requirements for growing hibiscus: In northern US, plant hibiscus in full sun. In the southern US, filtered sunlight is preferable. The soil should be fertile and loamy. All hibiscus needs consistently moist soil with good drainage. Keep the soil moist and water as needed. Select varieties that tolerate the temperatures in your location year-round. Alternatively, grow hibiscus in pots and overwinter it indoors. Fertilize the plant regularly during the growing season. Light Hibiscus loves bright conditions. In northern climes, full sun is best, but in the intense sunlight of southern locations, filtered sunlight is better. Indoors, hibiscus needs a bright spot near a sunny window. However, keep it away from strong, direct sunlight. If you move the plant outdoors for the summer, gradually acclimate it to the brighter light conditions. Soil All hibiscus do best in well-drained, fertile, moist, loamy soil. The hardy varieties are wetland natives and are a good choice for sites that are too wet for other plants. Most hibiscus prefer a slightly acidic soil pH. Water All hibiscus are thirsty plants that need to be kept moist. Unless they are planted in consistently moist soil, water them regularly. Mulching around the plant base helps with moisture retention. For container-grown plants, wait until the top inch of the potting mix fully dries out before watering. In hot summer weather, you might need to water your potted hibiscus as often as daily. Indoor tropical hibiscus benefits from regular watering from spring to early autumn during the growing season. Significantly reduce watering during the dormant period in the winter. Temperature and Humidity Hardy hibiscus grows in cool, temperate climates. It thrives in temperatures between 60°F to 90°F and tolerates temperatures as low as -30°F.1 Temperatures below 50°F cause cold-sensitive and tropical varieties to drop their leaves and temperatures below freezing kill the plants. Bring container-grown tropical hibiscus indoors when weather cools. All hibiscus thrive in high humidity; they aren't suitable for hot, arid climates. The high humidity found in a bathroom is a good place for an indoor hibiscus. Fertilizer To encourage abundant, healthy blooms with vibrant colors, hibiscus benefits from light yet regular fertilization. There is specially formulated hibiscus fertilizer, but any other fertilizer that is moderate in nitrogen, low in phosphorus, and high in potassium such as 10-4-12 or 12-4-18 will also work. Use a diluted water-soluble fertilizer once a week for hardy or tropical hibiscus. Granular slow-release fertilizer should be applied on hardy hibiscus three times a year, including early spring, after the first round of blooming, and midsummer, and tropical hibiscus monthly during the growing season from spring to fall. Types of Hibiscus There are hundreds of hibiscus species, including tropical and hardy hibiscus, plus many hybrids and cultivars. The four most popular species are: Tropical hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis): Also known as Chinese hibiscus, tropical hibiscus plants produce large and showy blooms from spring through fall as long as they get plenty of sunlight. In colder climates, plant tropical hibiscus in a container and overwinter it indoors. There are many different varieties, including the popular 'Fiesta'. USDA Hardiness Zone 7-11. Hardy hibiscus (Hibiscus moscheutos): This is the hibiscus for a cooler climate. Native to North America, the oversized flowers feature tissue-thin, ruffled petals in shades of pink, lilac, red, magenta, and white. USDA Hardiness Zone 4-9. Swamp hibiscus (Hibiscus coccineus): Native to the southeastern United States, this unusual hibiscus species has large, bright red, pinwheel-like flowers in the summer. USDA Hardiness Zone 6-9. Cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis): The show-stopping flowers of this tropical shrub start as a white or light pink color and within one to three days, change to a magenta pink and then a dark pink to red. USDA Hardiness Zone 7-11. Pruning Pruning hibiscus annually stimulates new growth with flower buds. The timing depends on the type of hibiscus you have but generally, pruning should be done as soon as the weather warms up in the spring. Hardy hibiscus mostly dies back to the ground in winter so you will only have to remove the dead stems before the new growth emerges. Dead, damaged, or diseased stems should be pruned at any time as soon as you notice them. Propagating Hibiscus Some hibiscus types are best propagated from stem cuttings and others can be propagated from seed. Follow the step-by-step propagation instructions for the type of hibiscus you have. How to Grow Hibiscus From Seed Growing hibiscus from seeds is usually only recommended for swamp hibiscus and roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa), the hibiscus species whose flowers are used for tea. For all other hibiscus types, propagation from seed is challenging and will likely lead to disappointing results because hibiscus cultivars and hybrids propagated from seed won’t produce a plant that is true to the parent. Potting and Repotting Hibiscus Nutrient-loving potted hibiscus will benefit from being repotted every couple of years in early spring. Avoid deep pots, otherwise the plant will spend a lot of its energy on root development instead of flower production. The ideal pot shape is quite wide but relatively shallow. Repot a plant that has outgrown its container into a pot one size larger and filled with fresh potting mix. Water well to establish the settle in its new home. Overwintering Tropical hibiscus is only hardy to USDA Zone 9 so it needs to be overwintered indoors in a warm spot where it gets plenty of indirect sunlight daily. Before you move the plant inside, cut it back by one-third and spray it thoroughly with a garden hose to remove any pests that may be present on the plant. Let the soil almost fully dry out between waterings and stop fertilizing. Leaf drop during the dormancy is normal; the plant will start regrowth in the spring. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Hibiscus is not bothered by many pests or diseases, but red spider mites become a problem when humidity levels are not high enough. Another potential pest is aphids. Keep them at bay with regular cleaning or insecticidal soaps. The appeal of hibiscus to deer depends on the species. How to Get Hibiscus to Bloom Bloom Months Depending on the type, hibiscus blooms from June to early fall. How Long Does Hibiscus Bloom? Individual flowers of most varieties only last for one day before they close and eventually fall off the plant. The payoff is a very long bloom period. Hardy hibiscus blooms from mid to late summer until the first frost and tropical hibiscus blooms from spring through late fall and into winter in frost-free climates. What Do Hibiscus Flowers Look and Smell Like? Hibiscus flowers range in size from 2 to 12 inches. They come in a kaleidoscope of colors and shades and the flowers are single or double trumpet-shape blooms. The flowers have no scent. How to Encourage More Blooms Failure to bloom is very often the result of shady conditions or a lack of fertilizer. Weekly feeding with a diluted liquid fertilizer may prompt your plant to produce plentiful flowers. Caring for Hibiscus After It Blooms Cutting perennial hibiscus back by one-third after the first bloom encourages a second flush of summer blooms. Deadheading Hibiscus Flowers Deadheading spent flowers keeps the plant tidy and encourages it to produce more flowers. Common Problems With Hibiscus Hibiscus is not difficult to grow however, there are some common problems to watch out for. Yellow Foliage If you see your plant's leaves turning yellow, it could be that you are subjecting it to sudden changes in weather conditions, not watering correctly, or not fertilizing often enough. Expect a little yellowing during the transitional seasons of spring and fall, but anything extreme merits further investigation. Dropping of Buds Extremes in temperature, insufficient light or humidity, and overwatering or underwatering can cause bud drop.

Landscaping hydrangeas—potted or otherwise—will come back if planted within their USDA zone. Hydrangeas sold as flowering plants rarely return because of a forced early bloom period. Overwintering hydrangeas is low-maintenance and can be achieved with mulch and the right container for potted plants. Whether your hydrangea comes back next year depends on the type: Some last only a year at most, while others can last for decades. Here is how to successfully grow hydrangeas as perennials in the ground or in pots, what you can do to get them through the winter, and other hydrangea care tips. Are Hydrangeas Perennials? There is a significant difference between the small potted flowering hydrangeas that are sold by florists and a hydrangea that you bought at a nursery and planted in your landscape. The first kind is short-lived by design and the second kind lasts for years, if not decades. Small potted hydrangeas that are sold as flowering plants are not perennials. Also called florist hydrangeas, these hydrangeas have been forced into flowering early, and have weak stems and a much smaller root system as a result. This affects their ability to get established in the soil the same way, which greatly diminishes their chances of surviving the winter, and are more susceptible to diseases.1 As for landscaping hydrangea shrubs, these can be perennials. However, whether they come back every year depends on the hardiness of the hydrangea, which varies between hydrangea species and varieties. If the USDA zone of your location matches the hardiness zone requirements of the hydrangea you planted—and the rest of the growing conditions are also met—it is highly likely to come back. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Hardiness Zones for Hydrangeas Generally, members of the Hydrangea genus grow in Zones 3-9. Some species or varieties have a slightly narrower hardiness range: Bigleaf hydrangea: Zones 5-9 Oakleaf hydrangea: Zones 5-9 Climbing hydrangea: Zones 4-8 Within the species, there are also differences in hardiness between the cultivars. For example, Endless Summer is an outlier, a particularly cold-hardy bigleaf hydrangea that survives winters as low as zone 4. If your hardiness zone is lower or higher than that of the variety, it will grow as an annual. Florist hydrangeas are also grown as annuals. A frost-free climate (Zone 10-11) is not suitable for growing hydrangeas as perennials because to go dormant and bloom the next year, hydrangeas need a cold period during the winter. How to Grow Hydrangeas in Pots Hydrangeas in pots can be grown as perennials, but they need a little extra care. Select a frostproof pot to prevent cracking; clay, terra cotta, or ceramic pots are not suitable. Make sure the pot has large drainage holes. Place the potted plant in a protected spot, such as north- or east-facing site to avoid strong sun exposure and temperature extremes. Potted hydrangeas dry out much faster than plants in garden soil. Water frequently, up to once or twice a day in hot weather whenever the top inch of soil feels dry. Water slowly and deeply until water drips out of the drainage holes. Fertilize the hydrangea twice, once in early spring and again in mid-spring, to make up for the washout from frequent watering. Do not apply fertilizer after late July. How to Overwinter Hydrangeas If you have planted a hydrangea that is suitable for your climate, there is no need to protect in-ground hydrangeas during the winter. However, covering the area around the shrub with 3 to 4 inches of mulch insulates the roots against the cold. Potted hydrangeas need to be winterized, even if they are hardy in your zone. Burying the container in the ground soil before the ground freezes is only practical for smaller pots. For larger containers, build an insulation silo by placing the container in a larger container filled with mulch or straw. Alternatively, wrap the container (not the plant) with several layers of bubble wrap or burlap. Tips for Growing Hydrangeas Finding the right amount of sun exposure for your hydrangea is key for it to bloom. The warmer your climate, the more shade the hydrangea needs; locations in morning sun and afternoon shade are best. Do not overfertilize the plant. Instead of using commercial fertilizer, working organic matter such as compost into the soil every spring is often sufficient to add nutrients. Using organic matter avoids too much nitrogen, which leads to lots of foliage and fewer blooms. Hydrangeas need consistent moisture. In dry spells and hot weather, keep an eye on the plant. If the leaves look wilted during the day and don’t recover in the evening, water deeply. Familiarize yourself with the budding and flowering pattern of your hydrangea because that determines the right time to prune hydrangeas.

After a productive tomato growing season, it’s hard to watch your tomato plants die back with frost. But, here's a gardener's secret: if you have the right tools and a little space, you can keep tomato plants alive through winter and enjoy your favorite tomatoes for years to come. To get you started, here are 3 easy techniques for overwintering tomato plants indoors or out in your garden, plus a selection of my favorite cold hardy tomato varieties for chilly weather. Can You Grow Tomatoes Year-Round? Tomatoes are heat-loving plants that grow perennially in zones 10 and up. But in chillier locations, these plants are typically cultivated as annuals and replaced with new tomato plants each spring. However, if you’re open to overwintering tomato plants indoors, you can keep tomatoes growing year-round in any climate. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Can You Overwinter Tomato Plants? Yes! While many gardeners pull up their tomato plants in fall, tomatoes can be overwintered outdoors in zones 10 and up or in homes or heated greenhouses in colder locations. In fact, tomatoes are surprisingly easy to overwinter indoors and they have many of the same care needs as tropical houseplants. Overwintering Options for Tomatoes Growers have several options when it comes to overwintering tomatoes. Tomatoes can either be overwintered outdoors with season extension products, or they can be overwintered inside as potted plants or cuttings. Which method you choose to use will depend on your growing zone and how much space you have for growing tomatoes. How to Overwinter Tomatoes Indoors Overwintering potted tomatoes indoors or in a greenhouse takes a bit more work, but it’s the only overwintering option that may allow you to harvest tomatoes year-round. Prepare Your Tomatoes Prepping tomatoes for overwintering begins in late summer to early fall. Carefully inspect your plants for signs of pests and disease and select only the healthiest plants for overwintering. Continue to water these plants regularly until you move them indoors, but stop fertilizing them in late summer. Prune Carefully Smaller tomato plants are easier to move indoors, so pick up your sterilized pruners and carefully prune away extra stems, suckers, and damaged leaves. Larger plants should be pruned back a bit more severely so that you’re left with about 1 to 2 feet of the plant’s main stem and a few healthy branches. You can also prune away any lingering fruit and flowers to help your plants transition more easily to indoor living. Pot (or Repot) Plants If you want to overwinter tomatoes in your garden, you’ll need to transplant them into roomy and well-draining planters that are at least 14 inches in diameter. To start, carefully dig up tomatoes before frost arrives, and make sure to leave as much of the plant’s roots attached as possible. Plant your tomatoes in pots filled with a well-draining potting mix and water them in. If you’re growing larger tomato plants and plan to harvest fruit indoors, you may want to add a small trellis or stake to your pot at this time to support your plants as they grow. Acclimate Tomatoes Indoors Before bringing your tomatoes indoors for good, check your plants carefully for pests and slowly acclimate your plants to your home or greenhouse by moving them inside for just a few hours each day. Continue this process over the next week or two, gradually extending the amount of time your plants spend indoors until they’re fully acclimated to the temperatures and light levels of indoor life. Provide Indoor Plants with the Right Care Place plants in front of a sunny window or under a grow light and water them regularly to keep the soil from drying out. Bright windows and temperatures that are above freezing should be sufficient for keeping tomato plants alive through winter. Provide your plants with warmer temperatures, monthly fertilizer, and a grow light if you want to grow tomatoes. Pruning off the fruit, flowers, and wayward stems keeps tomato plants healthier through winter. Hand-pollinate the flowers if you want your plants to fruit. Transplant Tomatoes Outdoors Come Spring. When spring returns and temperatures are consistently above 55 degrees Fahrenheit, harden off your plants over a week or two by moving them outdoors during the day and inside at night. When your plants can tolerate full sun and outdoor weather, position their pots in a sunny spot or transplant them back into your veggie beds. Soon enough, you’ll be harvesting more tomatoes from your overwintered plants. How to Overwinter Outdoors While cool weather gardeners need to overwinter tomato plants indoors, gardeners in USDA growing zones 10 and up can overwinter tomatoes right in their gardens. This method works for both potted tomatoes and tomatoes in inground and raised beds, although potted plants may need a little more insulation. For best results, choose cold-hardy tomato varieties for overwintering. Prepare your plants: To get your tomatoes ready for winter, stop fertilizing your plants in late summer to early fall, but continue to water your plants regularly. Do some pruning: Before temperatures dip, prune away any new growth on your tomatoes and cut your plants back so that you’re left with just a foot or two of the plant’s main stems. Insulate your tomatoes: Add a 2 to 3-inch layer of natural mulch around the base of your plants to protect the roots from cold. Uncover plants in spring. When spring returns and the danger of frost has passed, go ahead and uncover your plants, rake away excess mulch, and start tending your tomatoes as usual! How to Overwinter With Cuttings If you don’t want to overwinter entire tomato plants, you can propagate your favorite tomatoes from stem cuttings or tomato suckers. This technique is a great space saver and can also help you salvage tomato plants damaged during the growing season. Take your cuttings: Before frost arrives, head out into your garden and take 4 to 6-inch long cuttings from your tomato plants. Propagate the cuttings in soil or water: Inspect cuttings carefully for pests, pinch off the flowers and damaged leaves, and remove any leaves that are growing from the lower portion of your cuttings. For water propagation, fill a clear glass container with an inch or two of water and place your cuttings in the water so that the cut stem ends are fully submerged and the leaves are above the water line. For soil propagation, dip the cut stem ends of your cuttings into rooting hormone, plant the cuttings 1 to 2 inches deep in pots filled with potting mix or seed starting mix, and cover the cuttings and pots with clear plastic bags to conserve humidity. Care for your plants through winter. Place your cuttings in a warm spot that receives bright, indirect light, and continue to care for your cuttings for a few weeks until they root. Transplant tomatoes outdoors in spring. Once your plants are properly hardened off, transplant them into pots or your garden beds. Why Should You Overwinter Tomatoes? Overwintering tomatoes is a fun experiment, but it has a few major advantages too. By keeping tomatoes alive through winter, you can extend your growing season significantly. You can harvest tomatoes earlier the following year. Overwintering tomatoes can save you money. It's a great way to preserve hard-to-find and heirloom tomatoes, as well as your favorite and most productive plants. 5 Cold-Hardy Tomato Varieties While frost hardy tomatoes don’t exist, some tomatoes are more cold tolerant than others. If you want to extend your tomato growing season or overwinter tomatoes outdoors in mild climates, these cold tolerant tomato varieties are hard to beat! Glacier. With an impressively long harvest season, ‘Glacier’ is one of the first tomatoes to fruit in summer and the last tomatoes to fruit in fall! Moskvich. An early-season favorite, ‘Moskvich’ is resistant to cracking and grows well in greenhouses. Siberian. Undeterred by the cold, ‘Siberian’ continues to fruit even when temperatures drop to 38 degrees Fahrenheit! Sub-Arctic Plenty. One of the fastest growing heirlooms you can find, ‘Sub-Arctic Plenty’ is ready to harvest just 42 days after transplanting. Oregon Spring. Another early producer, ‘Oregon Spring’ is resistant to verticillium wilt and produces fruit about 60 days after transplanting.

Daylilies are easy-to-grow perennials popular for borders and edging. In addition to the most commonly known variety, the yellow Stella D'oro, daylilies come in many different varieties in shades of red, orange, purple, and pink. The fast-growing and long-lived daylilies grow in a wide climate range, unaffected by winter cold or high summer temperatures. They are drought-tolerant and grow in most soils. The flowers attract butterflies and hummingbirds. Daylilies are toxic to cats. Planting The spacing depends on your patience. To naturally let them grow together over 10 to 15 years, space bare roots about 3 feet apart. For a clump that fills in earlier, space daylilies about 18 inches apart. If the soil is poor, amend it with compost before planting. Loosen the soil in the planting area to about 1 foot deep. Dig a hole deep enough to accommodate the root. Plant the plant's crown about an inch below the soil line, angling the bulbous roots outwards and a bit downwards. Evenly add soil and tamp it down to get rid of any air pockets. When the hole is 2/3 full, water generously, fill in the rest of the hole so that the crown is about an inch below the soil surface, and water again. Light Daylilies love full sun (at least six hours each day). In hot climates, some afternoon shade keeps your flowers in good health although shade may reduce the number of blooms. Soil Daylilies thrive in all types of soil but prefer fertile and loamy soil. Just make sure the soil retains moisture well (adding compost helps). Also, ensure that the site is well-draining to prevent root rot. Water Water daylilies regularly in the first growing season. Moving forward, only water about 1 inch per week during extended dry spells. Mulching helps retain moisture in the soil, plus it protects the plants in colder winter climates. Temperature and Humidity Daylilies are tough plants that tolerate a wide range of temperatures and humidity levels. Fertilizer Most daylilies do not need fertilizer. Instead, for added nutrients, add compost to the soil around the plants in each growing season. Types of Daylilies There are thousands of daylily cultivars and varieties. The most popular daylilies include: 'Stella D'Oro': This popular, reblooming daylily has flowers with a rich golden yellow that put on a show from early to midsummer, reblooming later in the season. 'Purple D'Oro': Another reblooming variety, this daylily has lavender-purple flowers that bloom in summer and rebloom in the fall. 'Crimson Pirate': This daylily has narrow, elongated red petals accented by golden yellow and a gentler sunny yellow throat. ‘Autumn Red’: This daylily has large bright red flowers, yellow eyes, and striped petals. Citron Lily (H. citrina): This cultivar grows 3 feet tall and its sweetly lemon-scented flowers bloom at night. Lemon Lily (H. lilioasphodelus, H. flava): The very fragrant lemon-yellow flowers of this 3-foot-tall cultivar bloom from May to June. Pruning If desired, remove spent flowers by gently twisting the wilted bloom between your finger and thumb. After flowering, remove the seed capsules and cut the flowering stems to the ground. Also, remove any yellowing leaves throughout the growing season to encourage the production of new leaves. Propagating Daylilies Propagating daylilies is typically done through division. Divide them every three or four years in either fall or very early spring. Dig up the daylily clump. Remove excess soil and place the plant on a tarp or cardboard to minimize the mess. Using a sanitized sharp knife or spade, divide the clump into smaller clumps. Make sure each section has a healthy clump of roots, and check that there are no weeds nestled in the roots. Replant clumps immediately in the new locations at the same depth as the original plant. How to Grow Daylilies From Seed Most daylilies grown in the garden are hybrids and those seeds will not produce true to the parent. For that reason, it makes the most sense to only start daylily species such as H. lilioasphodelus from seed. Start the seeds indoors or sow them directly in the soil in the fall. Here's how to start daylilies from seed indoors: Subject the seeds to moist cold stratification for about 30 days. Store the seeds in a dark, cool place in a paper envelope until you are ready to plant. Plant seeds in 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep in a deep 1-quart pot so the roots have room to grow. If your seeds didn't germinate during the stratification process, they should sprout in about two to three weeks in the soil. Keep the soil moist at all times. Transplant seedlings to the garden in June or July. Note that newly planted daylilies take up to two years to show their first flowers. Overwintering Daylilies do not require winter protection. The foliage dies back after the first frost. If it doesn't, cut it back to just a few inches above the ground, or wait until spring at which time it is easy to pull dead stems away from the crown. Adding a layer of straw or leaf mulch before winter helps the plant withstand freeze-and-thaw cycles. Common Pests Daylilies are generally pest-free. Even rabbits avoid them, although deer may find the entire plant tasty. Prevent the occasional slugs and snails by picking up leaf litter around the crown of the plant. Check in early spring for any aphids around the first buds and be on the lookout for spider mites or thrips in hotter weather. Control and eliminate insect pests with insecticidal soap. How to Get Daylilies to Bloom Bloom Months The bloom time depends on the variety, climate, and whether they are rebloomers. Most daylilies bloom from June to July. Rebloomers bloom either a few times a year or they are everbloomers that flower through the late spring and summer from May to September. What do Daylilies Look and Smell Like? Daylilies typically have wide petals with have straight or frilly edges. They come in all colors and patterns, ranging from simple "self" patterns (one color with potentially different colored stamens or throat) to more eclectic polychrome patterns (blooms of three or more colors). Some types are more sweetly fragrant than other types. How to Encourage More Blooms Cut the faded flower stalks from the base to encourage the daylily to produce more flowers instead of seeds. Common Problems With Daylilies Daylilies are strong, relatively carefree plants, but sometimes problems arise. Leaves Turning Yellow If the leaves begin turning yellow, the problem is likely a lack of water. Make sure the plants get at least one inch of water per week. Leaves Turning Brown If the leaves begin turning brown, it is probably leaf scorch, a non-deadly but common daylily condition Remove all dead leaves, or cut the plant back to the ground after it is done blooming to encourage new growth if there is still time left in the season.