Plum blossom (Prunus mume), also commonly known as Chinese plum or Japanese plum, is an ornamental tree that produces attractive blossoms and small stone fruits. Its beauty rivals the cherry blossom tree, and it blooms earlier in the year, making it a welcome sight during winter. Plum blossom trees grow best in full to partial sunlight, and require moist but well-draining soil with an acidic pH level. The leaves, stems, and seeds of the plum blossom are toxic to dogs and cats. Plum Blossom Care Here are the main care requirements for growing plum blossom. Plant in well-draining soil. Choose a spot that receives at least four to six hours of sunlight daily. Water regularly but ensure adequate drainage to avoid oversaturation. Feed with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer during late summer or early fall. Light Like most flowering and fruiting trees, plum blossom trees will do best in a location that receives full sun. However, the tree can grow in partial shade conditions but it should receive at least four hours of sunlight a day. Soil Well-draining soil is the main requirement for the planting site. And while the tree can tolerate a range of soil conditions, loamy, rich soil is ideal. It prefers acidic soil pH levels. Water The plum blossom will need to be watered regularly to ensure the soil remains moist but mature trees exhibit moderate drought tolerance. When deciding how often to water this tree, keep in mind that the soil should not become oversaturated. Good drainage assists in preventing soggy soil conditions. Temperature and Humidity The ideal climate for plum blossom trees is USDA hardiness zones 6 to 9, which can see temperatures dip below 0°F. Trees planted in the coldest regions should be located in a sheltered area to protect against the effects of harsh winter winds. On the other hand, if you grow plum blossom trees in a warmer climate, choose a planting location that provides partial shade during the hottest part of the day to avoid foliage damage from intense sun. Fertilizer To support the production of foliage and fruit, plum blossom trees do best when grown in nutrient-rich soil. If you have subpar soil quality, you should consider supplementing with an organic fertilizer. For conventional fertilizer, a high nitrogen formula can help to support growth, especially during the first few years. Apply fertilizer during the late summer or early fall to support the following season’s growth. As a general rule of thumb, trees in the Prunus genus should produce about 24 inches of new shoot growth every year.2 If your tree is producing more than that, cut back on feeding nitrogen-rich fertilizer. If it's growing more slowly, increase the amount of nitrogen fertilizer you administer. Pruning If you decide to prune the plum blossom tree to maintain a desired shape and eliminate any dead wood, when you prune the tree is critically important if you are hoping to maximize flower production. Plum blossom trees should be pruned immediately after flowering. Since the tree blooms on the previous year’s wood, pruning ahead of flowering will result in the loss of buds and reduced flower production. In most instances, you’ll want to cut back the limbs by two nodes. Alternatively, if fungal disease is a concern, you can prune the plum blossom tree in the summer. While the tree is less susceptible to infection in the pruning cuts, you’ll likely reduce some of the tree’s flowering potential for the following year. Propagating Plum Blossom Trees Cuttings of prunus mume can be notoriously hard to root and to grow a plant that is true to the parent cultivar, you’ll have to graft a softwood cutting onto a rootstock. Because of the challenge of propagation and slow rate of flowering activity (usually at least two years for grafted specimens), it’s usually best to purchase a young tree from a nursery. How to Grow Plum Blossom From Seed Plum blossom trees are known to be challenging to propagate using cuttings but have better results when grown from seed, although it may take at least three years to see flower production. If you’d like to grow plum blossom from seeds—acquired from ripened fruit or a nursery, here’s how to do it: Fill a plastic bag with moistened sphagnum moss and sand (1:1 ratio). Bury the seeds inside the filler material. Stratify the seeds by placing the bag inside a refrigerator for about three months. If the seeds begin to sprout sooner, it’s time to plant them. In the spring, sow the seeds in your desired outdoor garden location. Alternatively, you can start the seeds in greenhouse conditions and then transplant in the spring. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Some of the most common pests that are attracted to plum blossom trees are aphids, spider mites, tent caterpillars, and borers. Scale can also be a problem, especially on the fruit produced by the tree. Diseases that sometimes afflict plum blossom trees are usually fungal. Some of the most common infections are honey fungus, verticillium wilt, silver leaf, and brown rot. In addition, Prunus species are also subject to bacterial canker, which causes sunken, oozing sections of bark and impedes shoot development.3 How to Get Plum Blossom to Bloom Plum blossom trees typically bloom in February and March, but as early as January in more temperate climates. This early blooming activity distinguishes it from the similar (and more well-known) cherry blossom tree. What Do Plum Blossom Flowers Look and Smell Like? Plum blossom flowers have a showy appearance with pink petals, although some cultivars display white or even reddish blossoms. The single or double flowers on a plum blossom tree have a short stem that emerges from the bare branches of the tree, prior to the appearance of foliage. The tree will stay in bloom for several weeks, up to a month. Aside from a splashy show of color, the plum blossom tree is also noted for its sweet, slightly spicy fragrance emanating from the opened flower blossoms. Common Problems With Plum Blossom Plum blossom trees are generally considered to be low-maintenance, but they can be impacted by various pests or environmental conditions. The most common issue relates to imbalances in watering or infection from bacteria and fungi. Leaves Turning Yellow or Brown If the leaves of the plum blossom tree begin to turn yellow, it could be a sign that the tree is experiencing stress from being under-watered. Check the soil and ensure that it’s moist. Water regularly to improve soil moisture but don’t overwater the tree, remembering that the soil shouldn’t become overly saturated and that it can take time for a tree to recover from drought stress. Leaves that turn yellow or develop brown spots can also be a sign of fungal or bacterial infection. A closer inspection of the tree's limbs and roots can reveal other symptoms that might point to verticillium wilt, bacterial canker, brown rot, or silver leaf disease. If you suspect any of these diseases, it would be best to do more research on the specific condition and how to minimize the impact of the disease on your tree and surrounding landscape plants.

Hardy geraniums are flowering perennials comprised of many cultivars, species, and hybrids within the Geranium genus, collectively called cranesbill geraniums. These are commonly-grown, low-growing, dense, carpet-like plants, not to be confused with zonal geraniums. These perennials have flower stalks that poke and weave through neighboring plants, floating on top of the plant. The small white, blue, pink, magenta, purple, lavender, and blue flowers are one inch wide and cupped-shaped, attracting butterflies and bees. Hardy geraniums grow best in well-drained, moderately rich soil. Most will do well in either full sun or partial shade, but they like to be fairly dry—they can become prone to mildew if kept damp. Note that geraniums are toxic to pets. Hardy Geranium Care Here are the main care requirements for growing a hardy geranium: Site them in a spot with full or partial sun; more sun equals more blooms. Give regular water, especially if in a full-sun location. Plant hardy geraniums so that the crown is at ground level or slightly above. Prune them after flowering to prompt repeated blooming into the fall. Prefers neutral to slightly acidic soil. Give well-balanced, time-released fertilizer if the soil is poor. Light Hardy geraniums accept a wide range of exposure conditions. For the best flowering and vigorous geranium plants, site them in full sun to partial shade. If geraniums are grown in hot, full sun, provide regular water. Some varieties of geraniums can tolerate full shade, but they likely won't blossom as fully as those with plenty of sun. Soil Geraniums are not particular about soil pH, but a neutral to slightly acidic soil is ideal. Most prefer medium-moisture, well-drained soil, though some species prefer relatively dry soil. Water Geraniums are a low-maintenance plant, so water them only when the soil becomes dry. If located in full sun, water the plant more frequently. Hardy geraniums can become prone to fungal disease if watered overhead. Temperature and Humidity Hardy geraniums grow best in daytime temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees and nighttime temperatures between 50 and 60 degrees. They tolerate a wide range of humidity levels, though mildew and rust can be non-life-threatening in very humid regions. Fertilizer Unless the soil is very poor, hardy geraniums generally do fine with no feeding other than a yearly application of compost. Poor soils might require a spring feeding with a time-release balanced fertilizer. Types of Hardy Geranium There are as many as 300 types of geraniums available to grow, some pure species, others nursery-created hybrids. The pure species are popular garden plants, but many named garden cultivars originate from hybrids achieved by crossing species within the genus. Geranium 'Johnson's Blue': This variety is thought to be a hybrid between G. himalayense and G. pretense. It is one of the most popular varieties, growing about 18 inches tall with sky-blue flowers. It is suitable for zones 4 to 8. G. sanguineum: This species, sometimes known as bloody cranesbill, is a relatively low-growing, clumping form that produces reddish-purple flowers from May to June, with lesser flowering into the late summer. It is grown in zones 3 to 9. Several good cultivars are available: 'Album,' with white flowers; 'Elke,' with soft pink flowers; and 'New Hampshire Purple,' with violet flowers with white eyes. G. himlayense: Known as lilac cranesbill, this species is hardy in zones 4 to 8 and produces violet, indigo, and blue flowers in early to mid-summer. It grows 9 to 18 inches in height. Geranium × oxonianum' Wargrave Pink': The most commonly grown geranium with salmon-pink flowers grows 18 to 24 inches tall in zones 3 to 8. Geranium' Rozanne: A violet-blue hybrid that flowers almost non-stop throughout summer. It grows 18 to 24 inches tall in zones 5 to 8. Geranium 'Ann Folkard': This is one of the earliest blooming geraniums with magenta flowers that repeat bloom throughout the season. This hybrid has a trailing habit and grows six to eight inches tall in zones 5 to 9. Geranium 'Double Jewel': Double-white petals feature a lilac center. It's short and sometimes grown containers because it grows 10 inches tall. It is hardy in zones 4 to 8. Geranium 'Southcombe Double': Double, pure pink blooms resemble fluffy asters. It grows ten inches tall in zones 4 to 8. Pruning Hardy geraniums require little care once established. They can get scraggly after blooming, and deadheading is difficult because of its many wispy stems. Shearing the plants back to basal growth will improve their look and encourage re-blooming. The plants fill out within weeks. The exception is G. macrorrhizum, which is easily deadheaded and needs no shearing. Propagating Hardy Geraniums Cranesbill geraniums can be divided and replanted through early summer. Nursery plants or divisions will quickly reach flowering maturity within their first year and slowly spread to fill available space. Plants started from seed can take several years before they flower. Most species of hardy geranium live longer if divided every three to five years, though you can divide more frequently to keep them from spreading or to obtain new plants. Once you see the center dying out, it is time to divide. Divide the geraniums from early spring to early summer, giving the plant time to establish roots before a frost. Here's how: Begin by digging up the plant and shaking the soil off the roots. Use a trowel or a knife to separate the root ball into pieces, ensuring each division has a root section and leaves. Replant each divided section at its original depth. Thoroughly water the newly planted divisions. How to Grow Hardy Geraniums From Seed Many hardy geraniums will self-seed readily, even taking root in sidewalk cracks. They do not spread uncontrollably and are rarely a problem. The volunteer seedlings can be easily dug up and transplanted elsewhere. You can also collect and plant seeds in the garden or seed-starter trays. Hybrids and many cultivars do not come true from collected seeds; these must be propagated by root division or other vegetative methods. Hardy geraniums are relatively slow-growing plants, and when started from seeds, it can take three to five years before they are mature enough to flower. Here's how to plant from seed: Get planting cells or 2-inch pots filled with moistened potting soil. Lightly cover one seed per pot or cell with soil. Cover the pot with clear plastic to keep the soil humid to promote germination. Keep the pot in a warm spot, at least 75 F, with bright, indirect light. Keep the soil moist. Germination can take place within three days or three weeks, depending on the conditions. Uncover the plastic and give half-strength fertilizer once a seedling emerges. Potting and Repotting Hardy Geraniums Unlike the popular zonal geraniums (Pelargonium), hardy geraniums are perennial plants rarely grown in containers. That said, there's no reason you can't do it. Use an oversized pot that will give the plant plenty of space to grow, and fill it with any standard commercial potting mix. The container can be made of any material but must have good drainage. Spread out the roots of the geranium as you plant it. Hardy geraniums don't like waterlogged soil, so weekly watering should suffice. They are relatively slow-growing plants, so repotting is required only when roots begin to poke out the drainage holes—this can take as long as three years. In colder climates, move the pots to a sheltered spot for the winter to protect the roots. These plants are not suitable for moving indoors to grow as houseplants. Overwintering Hardy geraniums generally require no winter protection against cold, but it is good practice to cut off the stems to just above ground level and discard the debris as winter approaches to eliminate fungal spores that can often cause powdery mildew. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Hardy geraniums are relatively trouble-free plants. Slugs might attack young geranium plants, while mildew and rust can infest foliage, especially in partial shade and humid climates. Shearing back and disposing of the infected leaves will help. To avoid mildew, give the plants plenty of space to improve air circulation and water through ground soaking rather than overhead spraying. Mildew spores are spread from water splashing against the soil. How to Get Hardy Geranium to Bloom When hardy geraniums fail to bloom as you expect, it's usually for one of these reasons: Too much moisture: Most hardy geraniums like relatively dry conditions; if they are overwatered, they will withhold blooms. Not enough sun: These plants typically want at least six hours of sun daily, and if they don't get it, flowering will be more sparse. The foliage itself, though, is often appealing enough to warrant growing the plant even in relatively shady conditions. Too much fertilizer: These plants thrive on little to no fertilizer, and if fed too often, the result can be excessive foliage at the expense of flowers. Fertilizers heavy in nitrogen are especially problematic. Replanted too deep: When replanting into a larger container or in a new site, do not replant them too deep; it can prevent them from flowering. Bloom Months Hardy geraniums typically bloom from May to September, generally from early summer to early fall. How Long Does Hardy Geranium Bloom? Hardy geraniums bloom for about three months. Often, there is one particularly heavy flush of flowers, with fewer blooms continuing in subsequent months. Shearing back plants after the main flush frequently stimulates more blooms to follow. What Do Hardy Geraniums Flowers Look and Smell Like? The flowers are five-petalled, usually pink, purple, blue, or white. Some have a mild, pleasant scent, if at all. Deadheading Hardy Geranium Flowers Most geraniums are wispy and difficult to deadhead. It's best to shear the plants to the base after flowering to promote more blooms to appear. The only hardy geranium worth deadheading is Geranium macrorrhizum, which is easy to deadhead. Common Problems with Hardy Geranium Hardy geraniums don't need much to grow well, but they do have some issues that come up occasionally. Overgrowth Hardy geraniums spread easily in the garden as a pleasing ground cover that weaves among other plants to block weeds and can grow somewhat invasively, spreading via underground rhizome rooting structures. Fortunately, hardy geranium is relatively easy to dig out and eliminate. Leggy Growth After flowering, hardy geraniums can become somewhat leggy and sparse. It's easy to shear or cut back the sparse stems, stimulating new growth.

Mandevilla, known commonly as "rock trumpet," is a perennial vine in USDA hardiness zones 10 to 11. This tropical plant does not survive cold temperatures, so you must take steps to overwinter it. If you grew mandevilla in large pots for summer displays, an advantage is that, with cold temperatures on the horizon in fall, you can simply move your plant inside to protect it from the cold. Learn how to overwinter mandevilla, including two overwintering options, what to do after you have brought it indoors, and whether or not you should cut it back for winter. Your Options for Overwintering Mandevilla There are two main ways to overwinter your mandevilla plant, but both involve bringing it indoors. If you have sufficient room in your house, grow it as a houseplant over the winter. If you lack space, locate it in a storage area and allow it to go dormant. Growing Mandevilla as a Houseplant If you have been growing mandevilla outdoors in a pot, all you need to do is bring the pot indoors. If you have been growing it in the ground, you will have to pot it up. To do so, follow these steps: Select the right pot size: Select a container that is a bit larger than your Mandevilla's root ball. This will allow the roots to spread. Avoid a container that's too big: It will retain excessive water, potentially leading to root rot. Fill the pot with potting mix: Mandevilla wants good drainage. A potting mix drains better than garden soil. If the container is large, place small stones in the bottom for even better drainage. Plant your Mandevilla: Dig a hole big enough to accommodate the root ball. Place your Mandevilla in the hole, keeping its base at the same level of the soil as it was while growing outdoors. Tamp the soil down: Gently push down around your mandevilla to ensure it rests firmly in the soil. Water: Moisten the soil, but avoid overwatering. Bringing Mandevilla Indoors and Let It Go Dormant The other option to overwinter mandevilla is to bring it, container and all, indoors, or pot it up and bring it indoors. Except, here, rather than treating it as a houseplant, you are providing conditions that will allow it to "sleep" through the winter. Store it in a cool (but not cold), dark place (for example, a basement). Temperatures in the 50s (F) will be ideal. Water the plant only when the soil is completely dry. How to Care for Mandevilla After Overwintering After you have begun the overwintering process by bringing your plant indoors, your care regimen will differ depending on whether you are overwintering mandevilla as a houseplant or in a dormant state: As a Houseplant: If you're treating it as a houseplant, give it a temperature of 65° to 70°, with as much humidity as possible. Give it bright but indirect sunlight, and keep its soil evenly moist (but don't let it get soggy). Any fertilizer you apply to a mandevilla houseplant should be applied at a weaker dose than when you fertilize it outdoors. The plant won't grow as vigorously indoors, and excessive fertilizer would only harm it. As a Dormant Plant: Since you won't be showing off your mandevilla as a houseplant, prune it back to just a few inches above the soil. This will help prepare it for next summer. Make sure the temperature is above 45° to 50° Fahrenheit. Keep it in the dark and water it very sparingly. Apply no fertilizer to a mandevilla being kept dormant. Should You Cut Back Mandevilla for Winter? If you will be keeping your mandevilla in a dormant state, prune it to within a few inches of the soil surface. Even if you are growing it as a houseplant, prune it in early spring to prepare it for the new growing season. Remove some of the older stems, along with any stems that are crisscrossing. This will open up the plant (improving air circulation) and reinvigorate it.

The lupine flower, also known as lupin or bluebonnet, looks like a wildflower, but it is a fast-growing legume in the pea family that has a tall, showy spire of colorful blooms that are typically purple. Flowers bloom from spring through midsummer and, while individual lupine plants do not spread, the flower pods each disperse up to a dozen seeds. Lupine is an annual and short-lived perennial flower with a lifespan of two to five years. This low-maintenance plant grows best in northern climates with cooler summers and requires a daily six hours of full sunlight, weekly watering, and soil on the acidic side. These vividly colored flowers are also deer-resistant and beneficial to pollinators like bees and butterflies. The plant is toxic to humans and animals. Lupine Care Here are the main care requirements for growing lupine: Plant lupines during cooler early spring or fall temperatures. Use loose, sandy soil for lupines, and avoid planting this flower in clay soil unless it is amended. Offer lupines more sun and minimum shade. Space smaller lupines a foot apart and larger ones two to three feet apart. Stake taller lupine varieties using grow-through grid stakes to prevent them from flopping over. Water lupine during periods of dry weather. Use an acidifying, phosphorous-heavy fertilizer when planting lupine. Deadhead lupine to encourage continuous flowering. Planting To grow lupine seedlings, dig holes 1 to 1 1/2 feet deep and start small plants about 1 foot apart, while larger plants should be grown two to three feet apart. Ideally, lupine plants are planted outdoors in cooler temperatures, either early spring or fall. Add mulch but avoid fertilizer. Light Lupines prefer full sun, at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days, to grow and bloom their best. They can grow in partial shade, but their flowering will diminish. However, some afternoon shade is ideal in hot climates. Soil These flowers thrive in organically rich soil or loose, sandy soil with sharp drainage. They prefer a neutral to slightly acidic soil pH, though they also can grow in very acidic soil conditions. Lupines will typically not survive in heavy clay soil unless the dirt is loosened a few inches down and heavily amended with compost. Water While lupines don't like soggy soil, which can cause root rot, they prefer regular watering. Water at least weekly if you haven't gotten rainfall to prevent the soil from drying out. Temperature and Humidity Lupines like fairly cool summers and don't bloom well in the hot, humid climates of the southern part of the United States. Place a light layer of mulch around the lupines to retain soil moisture and keep the roots cool in hot areas. Fertilizer Lupines generally don't require fertilizer, and too much fertilizer can encourage excess foliage growth rather than blooms.4 However, an acidifying fertilizer with more phosphorous than nitrogen is useful for lowering the soil pH of alkaline soils. These fertilizers may be labeled as "bloom boosters."5 Lupine already fixes the nitrogen in the soil, so it doesn't require more. Types of Lupine The types of lupine grown in gardens are generally hybrid crosses (Lupinus × hybrida) of various native species bred to maximize flower color and vigor. Lupinus is an enormous genus of flowering plants, comprising hundreds of species. The colorful hybrid lupines most popular for gardens were primarily derived from Lupinus polyphyllus (also called large-leaved lupine), a North American native, crossed with various other species, such as Lupinus arboreus. Although rainbow hybrid lupine seed mixes are the most popular commercially available lupine, the original blue strain is the hardiest. There are several lupine varieties available that vary in appearance, including: Russell mixed colors: Bred in 1937 and naturalized in many areas, this hybrid rainbow and bicolor mixture is the foundation for all new cultivars. Gallery series: Dense flower spikes on this compact plant grow no more than 2 feet tall. For example, 'Gallery White' boasts snowy white flower spikes. 'Dwarf Lulu': These plants grow about 2 feet tall in a rainbow of hues and feature unusually dense racemes. 'Minarette': This dwarf 18-inch variety of lupine looks stunning in drifts along a border's edge or in containers. Lupinus albus (white lupine): This taller lupine can grow up to 4 feet tall with white blossoms. Lupinus albifrons (silver lupine): This taller lupine grows between 3 to 5 feet tall with silver-green leaves topped with pale blue to purple flowers. Lupinus angustifolius (blue lupine): Also called narrowleaf lupine, this taller plant grows to 5 feet tall and has blue blooms. It is used more for agricultural use than for gardens. Propagating Lupines Because lupines sprout so easily from seed, this is the normal method for growing them, though blooming takes longer. Lupines can also be propagated by carefully taking basal cuttings from established plants in the spring and simply replanting them. Basal propagation ensures an ongoing stock of the plants, and they may bloom sooner than seeds. Take these steps: Propagate lupine cuttings in the early spring before the plant has begun to actively grow and leaf out. Use a sanitized sharp knife to sever a segment of the crown and roots from the parent plant. Transplant the new segment to a new location in the ground. Propagate lupine every two to three years, as they are short-lived plants. How to Grow Lupine From Seed Lupines are easy perennials to grow from seeds but can take two years to bloom this way. Buy lupine seeds or harvest the small round tan or green seeds from the plant's pods in the fall. Start lupines from seed in the early to late spring or late fall for the following spring season. Take these steps: Before sowing in the ground, nick the tough seed coat or soak it in water overnight to ensure a better germination rate. Plant the seeds about 1/4 inch deep outdoors in a permanent area that receives full sun. Lupines do not transplant easily due to their long taproots. Expect germination in 14 to 30 days. Potting and Repotting Lupine Plant lupine in pots in the springtime. Choose a large, deep, and heavy container to comfortably handle the plant's long taproots and top-heavy, upright growth. Use well-draining soil, space lupine plants a minimum of a foot apart, and put the container in full sun. Cut the plant back and shelter the pot over the winter to help lupines survive. Overwintering During the winter, lupines die back to the ground and go dormant. Cut the lupine stalks down to the ground, leaving 1 to 2 inches above ground. Mulch to protect the below-ground plant from freezing temperatures as it overwinters. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Lupine is vulnerable to aphids are common in spring.6 Control pests with horticultural oils or pesticides. Lupine is susceptible to lupine anthracnose which causes leaf blight and brown spots.7 Remove and destroy affected plants and avoid using the area to grow lupines for several years so the spores have time to die off. Powdery mildew from poor air circulation can impact lupines with white, powdery patches on foliage.8 Cut away the foliage and wait for regrowth or treat it with organic methods. How to Get Lupine to Bloom Bloom Months Lupine blooms from late spring into July. If they do rebloom after their first flush, they may produce smaller flowers. What Do Lupine Flowers Look and Smell Like? Hybrid lupines have a telltale look of tall, showy spires of flowers that can come in a multitude of colors. The foliage resembles palm leaves with seven to 10 leaflet segments each. Lupines have sweet scents but various types smell different. How to Encourage More Blooms Lupines planted in deep shade typically won't flower. Remedy this by trimming back neighboring shrubs and trees for more sun. A second bloom in the summer may occur but with smaller flowers. Cut back in spring after the first flowering to encourage summer blooms. What to Do With Lupine After It Blooms Deadheading lupine after it blooms and fades may result in a second flush. By the fall, cut the plants down to the ground. Common Problems With Lupine Lupine is easy to grow but there may be a couple of problems. Here's what to look for. Not Blooming Your lupines may not be blossoming because they are not getting enough sunlight, the flowers are underwatered, there's a pest infestation, or the soil does not have enough phosphorous in it. Brown Leaf Tips Lupines are susceptible to a fungus called lupine anthracnose. The leaf tips of younger lupine plants turn brown and bend. As the disease develops, more brown spots and cankers appear on the leaves. Remove and discard all infected plants. To protect surrounding plants from the fungus, use a fungicide for outdoor ornamental plants or one for Colletotrichum diseases. Colletotrichum gloeosporioides cause Lupine anthracnose.