If your hydrangeas put on a spectacular summer show of blooms they deserve some attention for the winter. If they don't perform very well, they deserve winter care even more to encourage better performance next summer. We've gathered five tasks and some tips you should be doing to care for hydrangeas in the winter to keep your plants healthy and happy. Provide Winter Moisture to Hydrangeas Hydrangeas are thirsty plants that require hydration throughout the growing season and even in dormant months. If you live in an area where the ground freezes hard, continue to water deeply and consistently until the ground freezes solid. In areas where the ground does not freeze, hydrangeas should be watered deeply but infrequently during the winter. Monitor rainfall carefully because winter precipitation may offer enough moisture. Add Nutrients the Right Way Commercial fertilizers, especially those with a high nitrogen NPK count, should never be used on hydrangeas at the end of the growing season. The nitrogen will cause a sudden spurt of green growth that will be killed with the first frost. Instead, supplement the soil with a few inches of compost that will break down slowly during the winter months. In warmer hardiness zones (7 and above), apply the compost in late fall or early winter by layering it directly over the soil. In colder zones, wait until the ground has frozen and top-dress the soil with compost before you apply mulch to protect the roots. Protect the Root System With Mulch Whether you are in an area where the ground freezes or in a warmer zone, adding mulch will protect the roots by acting as an insulator and help retain moisture. After the ground freezes or in early winter, add about six to eight inches of mulch over the compost top-dressing. Don't mulch too early in warmer zones because that can cause rotting, disease, and provide shelter for munching rodents. Remember that thick mulch should be removed when spring buds appear. For small plants in cold temperature zones (6 and lower), the mulch can be applied as a mountain covering the majority of the hydrangea. Protect Hydrangeas With a Burlap Wrap If you live in zone 6 or lower, your hydrangeas will benefit from a burlap wrap to protect them from heavy snow drifts and drying winter winds. Growers in warmer zones don't need to worry about wrapping plants unless the hydrangeas are on a northern slope and temperatures below 0 degrees are expected for multiple days. One way to construct a burlap wrap is to place bamboo stakes in a circle around the hydrangea. Wrap a couple of layers of burlap around the stakes and secure it with twine. For larger plants or a bed of hydrangeas, build a frame with four or more posts and stretch chicken wire around the posts. The wire should be at least six inches taller than the top of the hydrangea. Add a couple of layers of burlap around the outside of the wire and secure it often with twine. Prune Hydrangeas Wisely While winter pruning is recommended for fruit trees, it's not the best time to prune hydrangeas except to remove limbs broken by strong winds or heavy snow. The best time to prune a hydrangea to produce the most blooms next summer depends on whether the shrub blooms on new wood (growth produced in the current season) or old wood (growth from the previous season). New wood hydrangeas(panicle and smooth varieties): Wait until early winter when the plant is dormant. Fall or winter pruning can be done to remove dried blooms and help shape the plant. Old wood hydrangeas (mophead and oakleaf): should only be pruned immediately after flowering in the spring and summer. Most horticulturists recommend no pruning after August 31. Additional Tips for Winter Hydrangea Care Bring container-grown hydrangeas indoors when temperatures fall below freezing. Water the plants sparingly to prevent root rot. To help hydrangeas overwinter in extremely cold zones, planting them near a heat-holding structure like a brick wall or foundation. Choose a spot with bright sunlight and protection from winter winds. Regularly inspect sheltered or wrapped hydrangeas and clear away heavy snow.

Sweet William (Dianthus barbatus) is an herbaceous perennial or biennial that is often planted as an annual flower. It is a very slow-growing plant that will eventually reach a height of about 2 feet. The flowering plant, with average pointed green leaves, produces blooms in vibrant shades that attract pollinators like butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds. This plant does best in full sun and is best suited for use in cottage gardens, perennial beds, or containers. Sweet William is generally easy to grow and likes regular water, but not oversaturation. Sweet William is mildly toxic to pets and people,1 so make sure to plant in an area that pets don't have access to. Sweet William Care Sweet William is easy to grow provided the following needs are met. Plant in rich, well-drained soil. Space plants about 8 inches apart as bedding plants to allow for the dense foliage that appears during the first year. Provide full, filtered sun but partial shade in hot temperatures. Irrigate regularly, but be careful not to overwater. Light Unless you live in a hotsouthern region, sweet William likes a full sun position over any shade. They can tolerate light shade, but too much of it results in leggy, floppy plants. In hot regions, some afternoon shade is best to help prolong the bloom time. Soil Sweet William can tolerate many soil types, except wet, heavy conditions. A well-drained, fertile, loamy site is ideal. The plants can survive in soils with various pH levels too but often do best in a neutral to slightly alkaline one. Some growers add lime to the soil before planting. Water Water sweet William regularly through the growing season, but take care not to overwater. Waterlogged conditions promote fungal diseases in this species.2 A moist but not saturated substrate is best. Temperature and Humidity For a flowering plant, sweet William is relatively cold-hardy. It can survive light frosts, but deep freezes will result in the plant dying down. This species doesn't do well with high humidity, and temperatures above 85° Fahrenheit can result in dormancy. Fertilizer Sweet William should be fed with an all-purpose fertilizer every 6 to 8 weeks while they are growing. For the amount to use, follow product label instructions. Pruning Late winter or early spring is the best time to prunesweet William. Cut at the spot just above the leaf nodes, as this is where new growth will spring from. If the plant is too bushy, trim off the stem tips. To encourage airflow, thin out the stems removing any that have become leggy and weak. Propagating Sweet William Propagating sweet William from cuttings is possible. However, because these plants are short-lived, many people simply purchase cold-treated plants during the spring to grow them as annuals. Potting and Repotting Sweet William plants do well in containers and planters due to their compact size. The pots can be grown indoors or out. Choose a 5-inch or slightly larger container with adequate drainage holes and fill with a rich potting mix and add a little compost. Place the containers in areas with full sun such as a windowsill. If you notice any water pooling or root congestion, you should move the plant to a larger pot. The best time to do this is in the Spring before another growth spurt. Choose a pot that is a few inches larger in diameter than its current home. Terra-cotta or unglazed ceramic pots are best for breathability and drainage. Add new soil and care for your sweet William as usual. How to Grow Sweet William From Seed Sweet William is easy to grow from seed, but they don't typically bloom the first year. The seed can be sown into the ground in the late spring or early summer when there is no danger of frost. They prefer cool temperatures of around 50 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit and consistently moist soil for germination. Temperatures above 65 degrees Fahrenheit can result in weak, leggy growth. These plants don't like to be overcrowded, so, as the seeds germinate, thin them out so there is adequate air circulation. If you want to see blooms in the first year of planting, you could try sowing the seeds indoors in cell packs or containers six to eight weeks before the last spring frost. Harden them off and transplant the seedlings outside once the danger of frost has passed. Overwintering Protect your sweet William plants from the winter cold by cutting back dead foliage and blooms after flowering, but don't prune in the fall. Let the rest of the dead foliage fall to the ground to create a layer of protective mulch. Add to this a few more inches of mulch to insulate roots. If your plants are in containers outdoors, move pots away from areas that suffer from wind, snow, and ice. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Fungal diseases like rust and crown rot can be a problem for sweet William if it is planted in poorly drained soil or overwatered. It is also attractive to slugs and snails.3 How to Get Sweet Williams to Bloom Bloom Months Under the correct conditions, sweet Williams can flower from May through to October in their flowering year. How Long Does Sweet William Bloom? Sweet William flowers will stay vibrant for up to ten days before fading. How to Encourage More Blooms Ensuring sweet William has moist but well-drained soil is crucial for healthy and abundant bloom production. Overly hot temperatures also impact flowering capabilities. What Do Sweet William Flowers Look and Smell Like? With their small clusters of flowers, sweet William offers a splash of color right through the summer. Their bright range of colors includes reds, pinks, whites, purples, and bicolors. Some flowers are fragrant, but many cultivars are scentless. Their fringed and bearded petals are what give them their alternative "bearded pink" name. Caring for Sweet William After It Blooms Once blooming is complete, you can cut back any dead foliage and flowers so they don't continue to take energy from the plant. Deadheading Sweet William Flowers Deadheading spent flowers will also encourage more blooms. However, stop deadheading in the late summer to encourage self-seeding for new plants the following year. Common Problems with Sweet William Leaves are Curling Curling leaves can indicate the presence of Fusarium wilt, a fungal disease.4 This disease can cause wilting, and the plant's overall health may decline. Since the pathogen is present in the soil, it can be challenging to eliminate once it has taken hold. Prevention is key, so be careful when handling the plants to avoid root damage, which can make them more susceptible to the disease. If transplanting your sweet William, ensure that the new soil is healthy and free from infestations. Leaves Have Yellow or Brown Spots Yellow or brown spots are a symptom of leaf spot.4 It will eventually lead to the death of the plant. You can protect the plant going forward with a fungicidal spray. Also avoid overhead watering as the spores are airborne. Brown spots can also be caused by environmental factors such as high humidity and sitting water leaving spots on the leaves. Conversely, conditions that are too dry could lead to scorched patches. Stem is Turning Yellow If the stem of your plant is turning yellow, the plant may be receiving too much water. Doing so over time will eventually lead to root rot and mildew and irreversible damage to the plant. Reduce your watering immediately and check the soil. If it appears to be draining slowly, replace it with a dry, loose potting mix. Once the plant perks up, you can return to a regular watering schedule.

Know what kind of tomato plant you're sowing—determinate tomatoes need less space than indeterminate varieties. Determinate tomato varieties do better in containers or raised beds because they do not need as much space. Proper spacing of tomato plants protects from potential diseases and set plants up to fruit more. Whether you start your tomatoes from seed or buy tomato seedlings, keep in mind while you plant them that proper spacing is essential for successful growing. As a rule of thumb, allow 2 to 3 feet of space in all directions for each plant, though the exact spacing depends on what type of tomato you're planting.1 Read on to learn about properly spacing determinate vs. indeterminate tomatoes, the pitfalls of insufficient spacing, and other tomato growing tips. Spacing Determinate vs. Indeterminate Tomatoes Before planting, check the seed package or the plant label, which should tell you if the tomato variety is determinate or indeterminate. Both tomato types are vines, but determinate tomatoes require less space than indeterminate tomatoes so the exact spacing depends on what type of tomato you are planting. Tomato spacing is usually given in two measurements: space between plants and space between rows. Determinate Tomatoes Determinate tomatoes grow only to a certain height, then flower, set fruit, and ripen within a short timeframe. They can be planted as little as one to two feet apart (though ideally in the 18-14 inches range) in rows 3 to 4 feet apart. The plants are often compact enough that they don’t require support. Because of their limited growth, they also don’t need pruning. Indeterminate Tomatoes Indeterminate tomatoes are the exact opposite—they have a long growing season that only ends with the first fall frost. They need a much more generous spacing than determinate tomatoes and should be spaced at least three to four feet apart in rows at least four feet apart. Indeterminate tomatoes should always be staked, trellised, or caged. Pruning the plants is also essential to keep the vigorous growth under control. Why It's Important to Space Tomatoes Properly Proper spacing between plants is important to keep tomato plants healthy. Even with the best care, these plants are prone to numerous diseases including fungal diseases (like early blight and late blight) and viruses (like tomato mosaic virus). Plants growing in crowded conditions with poor air circulation are an ideal breeding ground for fungal diseases to spread. Generous spacing between tomato plants is also important to give you easy access for pruning, weeding, and harvesting without the risk of damaging neighboring plants. Signs Tomatoes Are Planted Too Close Together Unfortunately, not giving your tomato plants sufficient space will backfire sooner or later in the growing season. You'll know that you skimped on spaced if these symptoms are true of your plants. Poor harvest. The plants are growing slowly or producing a poor harvest because they are competing for nutrients and water. No visual borders. You cannot tell where one plant ends, and the next one starts because the vines have become entangled. Soggy foliage. The foliage remains wet for hours after rainfall even in warm summer weather because there is inadequate airflow. Difficulty harvesting. Harvesting the tomatoes is tedious because you cannot easily access the plants from all sides. Additional Tomato Growing Tips To make your tomato season a success, here are some other key tips for growing delicious tomatoes: Plant them in full sun where they get at least six to eight hours daily. Get the soil ready for planting with soil amendments and compost. Also, check if the pH is on target (between 6.2 and 6.8).2 Tomatoes: From Seedlings to Fruit. Penn State Extension. Fertilize them every two weeks during the growing season. Make sure to water the plants deeply and regularly at the base. Harvest them at the right time. Not all tomatoes are red when they are ripe so know the checklist of signs to look for.

The Easter lily is a bulb that's planted in the fall and emerges each spring, growing quickly. While the lily generally blooms in the summer, growers have cultivated varieties forced to bloom earlier to coincide with Easter. But don't expect to have flowers for the holiday from bulbs you planted in the fall, as, once in the ground, lilies may not bloom until their second year. This plant does best with full sun to partial shade and rich, well-draining soil. It's also important to note that indoor and outdoor Easter lily plants are toxic to cats. Easter Lily Care Here are the main care requirements for growing Easter lilies. Plant bulbs in full sun to partial shade. Indoors, keep Easter lilies by a window with bright, indirect sunlight. Place them in rich, well-draining soil and keep them evenly moist. Remove spent flowers by cutting them off with a sharp pair of clean scissors. Light Easter lilies thrive in full sun to partial shade. If possible, position your Easter lily so the top part is in full sun but leaves and soil remain shaded; bright light can scorch the foliage, and it should have protection from the strong afternoon sun. Soil Easter lily flowers prefer well-drained soil that’s rich in organic matter, although they'll grow in a variety of soil types as long as the drainage is sufficient. Lilies prefer a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH, but they can tolerate slight alkalinity, as well. Water Easter lilies like evenly moist soil, so water whenever the top inch of soil feels dry. Never allow the plants to sit in water, but also don’t let the soil dry out completely. It’s ideal to water in the morning, giving the foliage time to dry in the sun. Otherwise, the plant might have problems with mildew. Temperature and Humidity Easter lilies grow and flower best in mild temperatures between 60°F and 70°F, with nighttime temperatures dipping no lower than 55°F to 60°F. They like a relative humidity level of 30%-50%. This plant doesn't grow or flower well in hot and humid climates. Fertilizer Use a slow-release, balanced fertilizer in the spring, at a rate of 1 tablespoon for each large stem on the plant, once new growth appears. If your soil is depleted, it's beneficial to fertilize your lily again in the summer, too. Organic fish fertilizer, used in a ratio of a 1/2 ounce of fertilizer to 1 gallon of water, provides the perfect nutrient source for lilies. Combine this with a 2-inch layer of mulch over the top of the soil to keep the plant happy. Types of Easter Lily The traditional Easter lily yields large white flowers, but other varieties offer variations in blooms, which range from cream to pink, including the ones below: L. longiflorum 'White Heaven': The classic pure white Easter lily grows 2 to 3 feet high with 7-inch-long flowers. L. longiflorum 'Nellie White': This cultivar is typically forced to bloom during the appropriate holiday season. It is the most popular Easter lily cultivar grown and sold by commercial growers. L. longiflorum 'Deliana': The flower color of this variety can vary from bright yellow to creamy yellow to green, depending on its soil content. Stems are 3 to 4 feet long with fragrant blooms on top. L. longiflorum 'Elegant Lady': This is a Dutch hybrid lily and features fragrant pink flowers. It is sometimes known as the "pink Easter lily." L. longiflorum 'Triumphator': This eye-popping variety has bright white flowers with rosy pink centers and typically blooms in July. Pruning Pruning lilies midseason consists of deadheading blooms and cutting back brown foliage. To do so, use sterilized garden shears to clip off flower stalks at their base. Clipping at the base will allow the plant to put its energy towards producing more flowers. Remove the entire stems of mostly brown leaves, but you can leave the yellow ones alone, as they will not compromise the health of the plant. Propagating Easter Lily Easter lilies are propagated from bulbs planted in the spring. After several seasons of growth, you can dig them up, separate the bulblets, and replant them, should you want to enjoy lilies in another part of your garden. To do so, follow these steps: Gather a spade shovel, hand trowel, and compost. In the fall, dig up your lilies to expose the bulblets (small bulbs) and divide them in half or thirds. Or, purchase bulbs at your local nursery. Plant bulbs in your garden by digging holes that are at least 6 inches apart and 4 to 6 inches deep. Place the bulblets stem side (the pointed end) up into each hole. Mix the removed soil with compost and backfill the holes containing your bulbs. In the spring after the last frost, gently water your bulbs and allow them to sprout. It may take two to three years for your lilies to reach maturity and bloom. Potting and Repotting Easter Lily When keeping an Easter lily in a pot indoors, you'll want to make sure it has access to plenty of bright light. Protect the plant from cold drafts and heat sources, like vents, fireplaces, and appliances. Because roots can become easily waterlogged, make sure to choose a container with drainage holes. Remove any decorative foil around the pot for watering and water until you see it coming out of the bottom of the pot. Allow the pot to drain fully before putting the foil back on. Keep the soil moist, but make sure it doesn't become overly wet and develop root rot. Once the flowers have finished blooming, you can choose to move it outside and plant it in your garden. Transplant outside after blooming has finished and once the last frost has passed. Repotting is not recommended for Easter lilies that have already bloomed. Overwintering Lilies grow hardy in zones 8 and below, but can still fall victim to a hard winter freeze, resulting in flowers that won't come back in the spring. For this reason, some gardeners prefer to cut back their flowers and greenery, dig up the bulblets, and store them in a root cellar, basement, or garage with temperatures that remain under 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Then, they replant bulblets in the spring, instead of the fall. If you prefer to leave them in the ground, avoid watering your lilies in the late fall. This will help the plant go dormant to endure the winter ahead. A potted Easter lily kept indoors during the winter and then moved back outside in summer is unlikely to rebloom on its current stem. You can, however, dig up the bulb after the plant is done blooming and store it in a cool and dark place until about two weeks before the first frost. At that point, the bulb can be planted. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Occasionally, a lily plant may suffer from an aphid infestation, which can degrade the foliage. Aphids can be controlled by simply hosing off your lilies with strong water blasts to decrease the population. You can also use insecticidal soap to kill off the offenders. The lily mosaic virus (spread by aphids) can move into your lily patch and cause leaf discoloration and degradation. Unfortunately, there is no cure for this disease, so you must dig up and destroy the affected plants before it spreads. Several types of bulb rot can also affect Easter lilies, along with botrytis blight, leaf scorch, and stem rot. To prevent these conditions, tend your Easter lilies daily, and perform remediations immediately. Stem rot and blight tend to move in during overwatering, and leaf scorch can happen during the heat of summer. How to Get Easter Lily to Bloom You likely want your Easter lilies—potted or not—to bloom on Easter. However, this is not an easy feat. Lilies grown in greenhouses and transported to the store for sale are of a certain variety that is forced to bloom on or near Easter. Also, the lighting conditions the plants are given before transport mimics the conditions needed to bloom. Bloom Months Easter lilies grown in the garden typically bloom in July. How Long Do Easter Lilies Bloom? Easter lilies typically hold their blooms for about two weeks after flowers open. To maximize this time indoors, place a potted Easter lily away from sources of heat, like a heat vent or radiator. You can also snip off the anthers as they emerge and this will make the flower last a bit longer. This step also prevents any possible staining from the bright yellow pollen grains that tend to fall from the flower. What Do Easter Lily Flowers Look and Smell Like? An Easter lily bloom is a large white, pink, or yellow trumpet-shaped flower with long yellow anthers. Easter lilies are one of the most fragrant lilies. When in bloom, these flowers have a strong sweet scent that can fill an entire room or permeate the garden. How to Encourage More Blooms If you want store-bought lilies to bloom for Easter, choose a potted variety with a few already-opened blooms, and then select a sunny area in your home for its location. At night, move your plant to a cool room, and then bring it out again the next day to extend its life. In the garden, all you can do is wait for the right blooming conditions (lilies can be thrown off by unusually warm, cold, or cloudy conditions). If you transplant a store-bought lily to your garden after it's done blooming, don't expect it to bloom again until the following year. Common Problems With Easter Lily When planted outdoors, Easter lilies are hardly a nuisance. Indoors, the plant won't bloom again, but the foliage can still be saved and transplanted outdoors. where just like unpotted bulbs, they may face a couple of hurdles along the way. With care, your newly planted Easter lily will bloom next season in the summer. Yellowing Leaves Easter lilies grown in a garden can suffer from plant crowding after a few seasons. Crowding will cause the lily to grow higher, while the lower leaves yellow and die. To prevent this problem, divide your lilies in the fall and plant them elsewhere, store half of the bulblets, or gift them to another gardener. Come spring, your lily bed will have ample room for healthy blooms. Stunted Growth Easter lily root rot is a known problem in the gardening world and can move into a bed that's been overwatered. Symptoms of root rot include small leaves and flowers, a reduction in the height of the greenery, yellowing at the base, and eventually, plant death. To prevent this, make sure you only water them when the top inch of the soil feels dry.