No, that isn't a baby watermelon—meet the cucamelon. Also known as Mexican sour gherkins, cucamelon plants (Melothria scabra) are distantly related to cucumbers, and they bring something fun and unexpected to vegetable beds and container gardens. These climbing vines produce tiny, grape-sized fruit with mottled skins that resemble mini watermelons but taste like cucumbers with a sour, lemony twist. Cucamelons are fast-growing and naturally drought-resistant. They’re ready to harvest about 75 days after the seeds are planted in spring. If you’re looking for a pint-sized edible plant to grow in containers or you want to try a less common crop, cucamelons are always a fun choice. Heed these tips to grow bunches of them. How to Plant Cucamelons Cucamelons can grow as perennials in USDA zones 9 and 10, however, these tender perennials don’t handle winter weather well and they’re generally grown as annuals elsewhere. That said, cucamelons are small enough to keep in pots, so they can be overwintered indoors or in greenhouses if desired. When to Plant If you live in a region with a long growing season, you can directly sow cucamelon seeds outdoors after the danger of frost has past. But in cooler locations, it’s best to start cucamelon seeds indoors about 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost of spring. Selecting a Planting Site Cucamelons can grow in pots or garden beds that receive plenty of sun. For best results, choose a growing location with rich, well-draining soil and plenty of room for trellising or another support system. To boost harvest yields, consider growing cucamelons near flowering companion plants that attract pollinators, such as yarrow, calendula, borage, and dill. Spacing, Depth, and Support For proper growth, cucamelon seeds should be planted about ¼ to ½ inch deep in soil amended with a bit of compost. Cucamelons should be spaced about 12 inches apart. Once established, cucamelons spread vigorously, but they’re much more manageable with trellising. Trellising also allows you to grow cucamelons vertically for space savings and prevents common plant diseases like powdery mildew. Cattle panel trellises, sturdy tomato cages, or bamboo trellis towers all work well for cucamelons, but it’s best to install trellising at planting time to avoid disturbing tender plant leaves and stems later on. Cucamelon Plant Care Light Like most other food crops, cucamelons are full sun plants that need at least 6 to 8 hours of bright light daily. Plants grown in very hot regions can tolerate partial afternoon shade, while plants grown indoors will usually need supplemental lighting from grow lights left on for at least 12 hours a day. Soil Well-draining, loamy or sandy soil with a slightly acidic pH between 6.0 and 7.0 is ideal for cucamelons. Amending the soil with a bit of compost or aged manure before planting can give cucamelons a boost and reduce fertilizer needs. Water Regular watering is key if you want cucamelons to fruit well. These plants typically need about 1 inch of water per week, although plants grown in hot climates or containers may need to be watered more regularly. When watering, direct your hose at the soil line or use drip irrigation to keep plant leaves dry and prevent mildew. Add a thin layer of mulch around the base of your plants to reduce watering needs. Temperature and Humidity Cucamelons are frost-sensitive and they can be damaged by cold temperatures. Warm weather helps cucamelons grow faster and these plants are at their best when temperatures are between 70 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. While cucamelons are typically not picky about humidity, high humidity conditions with minimal air flow can encourage powdery mildew. Keep plants well-pruned and follow proper spacing recommendations to reduce mildew problems. Fertilizer Adding compost to the soil before planting cucamelons can help plants grow better, but cucamelons will still need to be fertilized throughout the growing season. Follow the instructions on your fertilizer packaging and apply a balanced, organic fertilizer every few weeks until cucamelon plants begin to flower. Then, switch to a high-potassium fertilizer to support flowering and fruiting. Pollination Cucamelons are self-pollinating and produce both male and female blooms on a single vine. These plants are pollinated by wind and insects, but you can increase harvest yields by companion planting with flowers that attract pollinators. Just keep in mind that cucamelons grown indoors or in greenhouses will need to be hand pollinated! Harvesting Cucamelons Harvest season usually starts in July, or about 65 to 75 days after cucamelon seeds are planted, and plants can continue to fruit until the first frost of fall. It’s time to harvest cucamelons when they are about 1 inch long and have firm, bright green skin. Overly ripe cucamelons turn bitter and become soft quickly, so harvest often. To harvest, simply twist cucamelons off the vine with your fingers or clip them away with scissors or pruners. Support the plant vines when harvesting to avoid broken stems and leaves. Fresh cucamelons can be stored for about a week in the fridge in perforated plastic bags or containers. For longer term storage, try pickling, canning, or freezing your harvest. Freezing changes the texture of cucamelons, but frozen cucamelons are still good for cooking. How to Grow Cucamelons in Pots If you want to save space in your garden or grow cucamelons on a sunny porch or patio, you can keep cucamelon plants in plastic or terracotta pots and planters, or fabric grow bags. One advantage of growing cucamelons in containers is that you can move plants indoors if cold weather is in the forecast. Choose a growing container with drainage holes at least 12 inches wide by 12 inches deep. Fill the container with a rich, well-draining potting mix and add a small trellis to keep cucamelons vines from spreading too vigorously. You should water and fertilize container-grown cucamelons more regularly than plants grown in vegetable beds. Pruning Cucamelons usually don’t need much pruning, although you will want to clip away dead, damaged, or diseased leaves when you see them. Light pruning thins out leaves, boosts air flow, and reduces the chances of mildew. If you grow cucamelons in containers or your vines spread too quickly, pruning controls the growth and size of particularly vigorous vines. How to Grow Cucamelons From Seed Cucamelon seeds are usually started indoors about 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost date of spring. Sow seeds ¼ to ½ inch deep in pots filled with a quality seed starting mix, water well, and then place the pots under grow lights. Once cucamelons are a few inches tall and frost is no longer expected, harden off young plants for a week or two. Then transplant your cucamelons into pots or a vegetable garden and add a nearby trellis to support vines as they grow. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Compared to many other food crops, cucamelons are relatively resistant to pests and diseases. However, cucamelons can still develop issues like powdery mildew, aphids, slugs, and snails. Companion planting with fragrant herbs and flowers can reduce pest issues naturally, while powdery mildew can be prevented by watering plants at their roots and using pruning and trellising to increase air flow around plant leaves.

Planting a Chinese fringe tree (Chionanthus retusus) can add a striking focal point in a garden without taking up too much room or creating too much work for a homeowner. This slow-growing, small ornamental tree provides a lot of aesthetic value and wow-factor for its size. Its profuse white blooms and dark purple fruit can be stunning and make this species one to consider adding to your landscape if you are looking for a unique non-native to add. How to Plant a Chinese Fringe Tree While the Chinese fringe tree is ultimately not that fussy, soil is the most significant consideration you need to consider when planting this species. Be sure to test the soil before planting to ensure it is moist, well draining, rich, and acidic. Selecting a Planting Site Picking a planting site for the Chinese fringe tree where the soil is good and the tree will receive plenty of sun. Once those requirements are met, choose a location where it’ll be visible, to take advantage of its ornamental value. Pick a spot where its blooms can be seen during the spring and its interesting bark can be seen during the winter. Spacing, Depth, and Support If planting more than one Chinese fringe tree, the ideal spacing is 15 to 20 feet apart. This distance will provide enough area for each tree to get enough sunlight to achieve its best blooms. When planting, you will want to ensure the depth is twice as wide as the root ball is deep. Once planted, you will not need to support the tree as most Chinese fringe trees on the market are multistemmed. Care As fabulous as it looks, the Chinese fringe tree is surprisingly low maintenance and problem-free if you provide it with the right conditions. Plant Chinese fringe trees in an area that receives full sun. Ensure the tree's soil is acidic and well-draining. Water the Chinese fringe tree often in dry weather. Prune Chinese fringe trees sparingly. Light The Chinese fringe tree prefers full sun to part shade but to guarantee that your tree produces a profuse amount of blooms you must provide your tree with full sun. Soil Providing organically rich, well-draining, and moist soil will give your Chinese fringe tree the best chance of thriving. Aim for soil with a low pH (under 7.0). Water Keeping your Chinese fringe tree well-watered is essential to keep it producing plenty of flowers. This particular species does not tolerate excessively dry weather and needs to be watered more in dry conditions, or its health and ornamental qualities will suffer noticeably. Temperature and Humidity The Chinese fringe tree is not incredibly fussy regarding temperature and humidity. It will be happy if you keep it situated in the recommended USDA hardiness zones of 5 through 9. Fertilizer While not necessary for the tree's health, providing a Chinese fringe tree with supplemental fertilizer will enhance its blooms. A yearly application of flowering tree or shrub fertilizer will support its flower production. Pruning Pruning Chinese fringe tree should be kept to a minimum. Being a multistemmed tree, they look best with a natural, untended look. When there are branches that are dead, damaged, or crowding each other, pruning is recommended. Propagating Propagating a Chinese fringe tree is notoriously difficult, both from cuttings and by seed, and the average hobby gardener is unlikely to succeed. Your best bet at getting another Chinese fringe tree is purchasing it. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Fortunately the Chinese fringe tree does not suffer from many pests or diseases, and its issues usually do not threaten the tree's life. The most significant concern when dealing with pests may be mites, which can easily be treated. You will not run into many disease issues beyond superficial powdery mildew, which can be treated easily with a fungicide available at any nursery or home center. How to Get a Chinese Fringe Tree to Bloom To encourage your Chinese fringe tree to bloom profusely, plant it in full sun and clear away anything that shades the tree during the day. That action alone will elevate your blooms. Provide a yearly dose of fertilizer and provide it with a steady supply of water. Without enough water, its flower production will stall.

Mango trees, Mangifera indica, make attractive houseplants similar to Ficus or palm trees. They feature a canopy of long, slender, glossy leaves atop a trunk that can grow 10 feet tall, This tropical thrives outdoors only in zones 9 and higher so is grown in pots in most temperate zones Container-grown plants require special care and a lot of patience to produce fruit. Plan on anywhere from eight to ten years for your tree to produce blooms. From flower to ripe fruit takes between three and six months. Choose and Prepare Mango Seeds Ripest mangoes have the best quality seeds. Once the fruit is removed, clean the seeds for better germination. Wrap them in moist paper towels and set aside for several days until completely dry. Remove the paper towel and brush off loose debris. Use a sharp scissor to cut open the seam along the long edge of the hull. It's tough so you may need a sharp knife to pry the seam apart. Insert the knife just under the inside edge and work the hull open to avoid damaging the seed. Once loosened, pry it open using two hands. The seed comes out easily. Discard seeds with mushy spots and discoloration. Seeds have two other thin, papery coverings. Remove the top one. Now you are ready to germinate your mango seeds. How to Plant Mango Seeds Mango seeds can be germinated in two ways. The plastic bag method is quicker but involves an extra step. Germinate in Plastic Bag You'll need a paper towel, sealable plastic bag, loose potting mix, and a 2- to 3-gallon pot with drainage holes. Follow these steps. Wet a paper towel and wring out excess water. Wrap the mango seed inside the paper towel, place the wrapped mango seed inside a plastic bag, and seal it. Keep the sealed bag in a warm (70°F), dark location. Check the seed regularly to make sure the paper towel stays damp and rewet when needed. A white root or roots should begin to form in about seven days. If roots have not yet developed, rewrap the seed and place it back in the bag. Continue to check every couple of days for roots to appear. As soon as the first root appears, remove the paper towel. Fill your container with quality potting mix. Perlite can be added for extra drainage. Place the seed, flat side down on top of the potting mix, and cover it completely with more medium. Water the pot from the bottom by setting it in a container filled with warm water. Place it in a warm location (70°F to 90°F) with bright, indirect light. A shoot should break through the soil in two to three days. Roots and shoots emerge from the same spot on the seed. How to Care for Mango Seedlings Mango trees are tropical plants that thrive on plenty of sun, warmth and humidity. In climates with warm summers and cold winters grow them as container plants overwintered indoors or in a heated greenhouse. Light Mango trees need six to eight hours of bright sun every day. Light exposure for seedlings should be bright but indirect until the plant matures at around four months when a small trunk is well rooted with a canopy of leaves. Expose young trees gradually to more direct sunlight daily. Growers in northern zones may need to supplement with grow lights. Soil These trees are not picky about soil but grow best in well-draining, organically fertile loam. They tolerate soils from slightly alkaline to slightly acidic from 5.5 to 7.5 pH. Container grown trees kept as houseplants may do well in cactus mix. Water Keep soil evenly moist while growing out seedlings. Mature plants are watered less frequently when the top 2 inches of soil dry out. Irrigate potted plants thoroughly then allow excess to drain before returning the plant to its saucer. Water garden seedlings every other day until established then reduce frequency to once weekly. Temperature and Humidity Maintain temperature between 65°F and 90°F. Plants tolerate dips as low as 40°F but exposure to 30°F for extended periods causes damage and loss. Humidity levels between 60 and 80 percent are ideal. Houseplants benefit from pebble trays or place them in groupings with other plants to raise humidity. Fertilizer Feed container plants once a month during the growing season with a balanced liquid fertilizer. Feed garden grown plants with a NPK 10-10-10 during growing seasons for the first four years then switch to a fertilizer higher in phosphorous and potassium to encourage flowering. Transplant Mango Seedlings Plan to transplant in spring or early summer during active growth. Mango trees grow rapidly and should be potted up when roots fill the container. To pot up, choose a pot one size larger. Transplant into the garden at about four months as long as the tree has a well-developed root system. Choose a spot that receives full sun. Dig a hole deep and wide enough to accommodate the tap root and root ball. Set the tree at the same level as in the pot and backfill. Tamp soil down and water well. Pests and Diseases Container-grown mango trees kept indoors are vulnerable to typical houseplant pests including mites, aphids, mealy bugs, and scale. Insecticidal soap or horticultural oils eliminate them but repeat applications may be necessary. High levels of humidity predispose mango trees to fungal infections including powdery mildew. Prevent these problems by watering at soil level in the morning and providing good air circulation around plants.

Peppers and tomatoes are part of the nightshade family and have similar needs for light, water, and nutrients in the garden. They can be grown together, but keep an eye on them because they attract the same pests and disease problems. Rotate their planting location in the garden every year to help keep plants well-fed and to reduce disease. If you love the idea of planting a salsa or an Italian red pepper and tomato sauce garden, you might be wondering how these plants will affect each other while growing. Here, we'll show you how to have healthy tomatoes and peppers in the same garden space, plus a few things you should consider each growing season. Can You Plant Tomatoes and Peppers Together? Yes, you can plant tomatoes and sweet or hot peppers together in the garden. Both are members of the nightshade family and have similar watering, light, and nutrient needs. Sweet peppers mature from seed to harvest in 60-90 days, hot peppers can take up to 150 days, and tomatoes mature in 60-100 days. Their similar growth period is ideal for food preparation and preservation. Growing the two vegetables in the same garden plot helps with pollination and insect control because they attract the same type of pests. You'll be able to see at a glance any issues that need addressing. 5 Tips for Planting Tomatoes and Peppers Together Prep your garden soil. Neither plant is going to grow or produce a bountiful harvest if they are grown in poor soil. Aim for a slightly acidic pH level of 6 to 7 and plenty of organic matter to provide nutrients. Don't overcrowd. If you are planting in containers, add only one plant to each 10-gallon container. In the garden, give each plant a 2-foot clearance on all sides. Skip the sprinklers. Neither vegetable benefits from frequent overhead watering that can lead to diseased foliage. Water by hand at the soil level or use drip irrigation to make sure the moisture is reaching the root systems where it is needed. Add some support. Most varieties of tomatoes and peppers will benefit from a support system of cages, trellises, or stakes in the garden. Allowing the plants to sprawl or fall over will damage fruit and block the sun for other plants. Feed to keep them healthy. These are fast-growing, heavy feeders that require plenty of nutrients to produce vegetables. Side-dress with fertilizer when fruits first form. 6 Common Mistakes to Avoid Limiting air flow. If you've planted seedlings too close, air flow and growing space become limited which could lead to disease and rot. You can help the situation by pruning away the bottom leaves and suckers on tomato plants to increase air circulation. Planting too soon. Everyone is eager to plant a garden on the first warm spring day, but planting before the chance of a late spring frost has passed will stunt or kill your peppers and tomatoes. Selecting the wrong planting location. Both plants need full sun to thrive, so make sure you account for shadows of fully grown plants. Not planting disease-resistant varieties. Whether you start your plants from seeds or purchase seedlings, look for disease-resistant varieties if possible. Forgetting to rotate crops. Pests and diseases can build up in the soil near plants, so rotating the locations where annual vegetables are planted can reduce pest and disease problems. Not harvesting regularly. Peppers and tomatoes mature quickly, so you should check the garden every day. Leaving overripe fruit on the plant reduces production and invites pests (including rabbits) into the garden to enjoy the fruits of your labor. Pests and Plant Diseases to Look Out For Since tomatoes and peppers are part of the same plant family, they do attract many of the same pests and succumb to the same diseases. Common pests include cutworms, hornworms, aphids, spider mites, and tomato fruit worms. Insecticidal soaps and removing the worms by hand will usually take care of the problems. Blight and wilt are common nightshade diseases affecting the foliage and cellular system. Good gardening practices like watering correctly, removing diseased material, and using neem oil can usually keep diseases under control.