On-point planting times are important to make the most of your vegetable plot. What you plant and when depends on your hardiness zone, garden conditions, and what else you are growing or have been growing in your plot—never underestimate the importance of crop rotation and the right companion plants to help prevent diseases. To help get you started, we’ve offered some month-by-month suggestions for when you should plant vegetables and what types based on your USDA hardiness zones. January You can start sowing seeds of cool-season vegetables outdoors or in cold frames in warmer hardiness zones. In the colder zones, you’ll need to start the seeds now indoors (and, in some cases, under lights) and transfer them outside once the soil warms up. Always check your expected last frost dates. In the meantime, it’s a good time to prepare empty parts of the garden for planting. Clear the plot, work compost into the soil, and apply any required amendments following a soil test. Zone 1 to 3: Carrots, kohlrabi, head lettuce, leaf lettuce (start all seeds indoors) Zones 4-6: Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, leeks, onions (start all seeds indoors) Zones 7-12: Spinach, radishes, arugula, fennel, carrots, beets, turnips (all direct sow outdoors) February Raised beds are a good idea if you are planting outdoors at this time of year—they can help protect your seeds from the hardest frosts. Zones 1-3: Onions and celery (start indoors and possibly under lights) Zones 4-6: Broccoli, celery, leeks, onions (start indoors and possibly under lights) Zones 7-12: Cold-hardy lettuce, radishes, spinach, turnips, and peas (all direct sow outdoors) March Now is the time to harden off seedlings to transplant them outdoors. It’s also when you start to have more options for what you can directly sow in the ground. Zone 1-3: Beets, broccoli, cabbage, kale, lettuce, spinach (best to start seeds indoors) Zones 4-6: Beets, cabbage, cress, lettuce, tomatoes, basil, cilantro, peas Zones 7-12: Beans, capsicums, celery, squash, sweet potatoes, lemon balm, hyssop April You can get caught out by late heavy frosts at this time of year in some regions, so consider starting seeds under the protection of cloches or plastic tunnels. Zone 1-3: Arugula, beets, broccoli, chives, peas, collard greens Zones 4-6: Onions, peas, radishes, lettuce, spinach, leeks, parsnips (consider plastic tunnel protection) Zones 7-12: Beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, celery, spinach, Swiss chard, sage May May is often one of the busiest months for planting vegetables. Tender warm-season crops can often be sown outdoors. However, as the weather warms up, take measures to control weeds and garden pests, such as spider mites, aphids, and cutworms. Zone 1-3: Cucumbers, pumpkins, lettuce Zones 4-6: Cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, tomatoes, eggplants, capsicums, cucumbers Zones 7-12: Celery, sweet corn, okra, capsicums, pumpkins, pole beans, Swiss chard June You are spoilt for choice when it comes to what to plant in June. If you are doing succession planting, you may even be sowing your second batch of seeds for some vegetables, like fast-growing lettuce or radishes. Zone 1-3: Peas, kale, chard, arugula, lettuce Zones 4-6: Beans, Brussels sprouts, carrots, cress, leeks, spinach, zucchini, oregano Zones 7-12: Eggplants, capsicums, tomatoes, cucumbers, marrows, sweet corn July July is one of the busiest months. You can be planning your fall vegetable garden and tending to your summer harvests. You’ll also want to water deeply and infrequently to promote a flavorful crop. Zone 1-3: Kale, lettuce, radishes, carrots, cabbage, peas, beans Zones 4-6: Chicory, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, spinach, turnips, parsley Zones 7-12: Beans, broccoli, capsicums, leeks, eggplants, lettuce, basil August There is a wide range of vegetables you can plant in August. It’s also time to prepare your soil for planting cool-season crops over the next couple of months. Deep watering should also continue to avoid drought stress. Zone 1-3: Cabbage, broccoli, spinach, radishes, chives, dill Zones 4-6: Brussels sprouts, carrots, chicory, spring onions, spinach, broad beans Zones 7-12: Beets, mustard, onions, parsnips, eggplants, leeks September Even if you select fast-growing crops to squeeze in an extra harvest, always check your average first frost date when planting in September. You want to avoid harsh weather killing off your crops. Zone 1-3: Spinach, kale, radishes, carrots, lettuce, broccoli, cauliflower Zones 4-6: Cabbage, leeks, cress, radishes, spinach, turnips, chicory, parsley Zones 7-12: Beets, cabbage, mustard, peas, spring onions, cilantro October Investing in protective cloches and plastic tunnels can help you extend your vegetable harvest season around this time of year. Now is also the time to consider whether you want to introduce a winter cover crop, such as clover or winter rye. These non-edibles can protect the soil from erosion and add nutrients back into the depleted soil. Zone 1-3: Garlic, peas, kale, lettuce, carrots, beets Zones 4-6: Leeks, lettuce, onions, radishes, spinach, broad beans Zones 7-12: Beets, cabbage, cress, lettuce, spring onions, peas, dill, lemon November In the colder regions, direct planting even the most winter-hardy vegetables isn’t the best idea as they are unlikely to survive the harsh temperatures. If you are closing your vegetable garden for the winter, now is the time to add organic matter to the soil and cover it in an insulating and moisture-retaining layer of mulch. Zone 1-3: Spinach, lettuce, carrots, beets (start indoors) Zones 4-6: Cress, shallots, spinach, lettuce (best sown in cold frames) Zones 7-12: Cabbage, kale, radishes, spinach, mustard, parsley, leaf lettuce December It’s the hard freezes you have to watch out for in the dead of winter, not an insulating layer of snow. Still, it’s best to plant cool-season vegetables cautiously in the zones with the hardest winters. Zone 1-3: Garlic, kale, spinach, carrots Zones 4-6: Onions, peas, cress, spinach, garlic Zones 7-12: Asparagus, broad beans, spinach, mustard, shallots, onions, cress

Whether you have a large or tiny space, you can design a vegetable garden to grow fresh produce. There are many different layouts for vegetable gardens, from vertical gardening to raised beds to square-foot gardens. If you are new to gardening, start with tomatoes, lettuce, peas, and radishes that are easy to grow. Read on to learn how to create a vegetable garden layout and get inspired by layout ideas designed to fit any space. Vegetable Garden Design Basics Just like when you select any real estate, location is the first consideration for a vegetable garden design. Then, you can decide the best size and type of garden for you. Location: Most vegetables require full sun to produce healthy fruit. Find a location where the plants receive full sun (six to eight hours) daily near a water source with good drainage. If irrigation is easy to provide and the plants have a spot with good drainage, you will have healthier plants. Soil Type: Vegetables need plenty of water, but don't like soggy roots. If you plan to plant directly in the ground, consider what type of soil is in your yard and if you will need to amend it before planting. Size: Consider your available outdoor space, the types and numbers of vegetables you want to grow, and the amount of people these plants will be feeding. Type of Garden: If you have a rocky yard or soil that will require hard work to till and amend, consider growing vegetables in raised beds or containers. Raised beds can be large or small and are easier to plant and maintain; container gardening is perfect for small yards, patios, and balconies. How to Create a Vegetable Garden Layout Create a layout based on what you want, your environment, and how soon you start. Physically draw it out on paper or a computer. Consider the planting environment: Review all the care elements your garden has when making decisions about what to plant, such as location, sun exposure, water requirements, and type of soil. Also, consider whether you will have planting beds or a container garden. Starting from seed or nursery seedlings: Your plan will heavily rely on the calendar and whether you are starting from seeds or nursery starts. Nursery starts are more reliable, but more expensive. Plants started from seeds need to get started indoors, often before the last frost or as soon as the soil warms; this vegetable garden will take longer to establish and require more care for a longer period. Choose vegetables you want: Your environment will dictate what you can grow. Ensure you start early enough that your vegetables have enough time to grow before the weather shifts or the first frost is anticipated. Pick plants that you will enjoy eating, and that will thrive in the environment you provide. Draw a layout: Once you have determined the plants you want to grow, draw the layout on paper using graph paper or online gardening tools like garden design software. Also, remember to plot the areas requiring similar watering and fertilizer needs and note some dates and times. You will need to adjust your watering schedule according to the rain. Vegetable Garden Layout Ideas These layout options are perfect for any size yard, big or small. Raised Garden Beds Vegetable Garden Layout Ideas These layout options are perfect for any size yard, big or small. Raised Garden Beds A vertical garden is perfect for small spaces and is usually less expensive to develop than other types of gardens. It is also easy to access and replant as crops mature. The structure can be homemade from landscape fabric or wood or a commercial (usually plastic) growing tower. The garden requires adequate sunlight and good soil for the vegetables. The downside to a vertical garden is that it requires frequent watering, often twice a day. The best vegetables to plant in a vertical garden are compact varieties like salad greens, baby kale, dwarf peas, bush beans, and herbs. These plants have shallow root systems and mature quickly. Four-Square Gardens A four-square garden consists of four raised beds with paths between them. Early English cottage gardens were commonly divided into four rectangular plots by two intersecting paths, coining the term "four-square." The beds can be customized to fit your space and are perfect for growing a variety of vegetables while providing access to each one. They do not have to be very high off the ground; just 6 to 8 inches can be deep enough. Some gardeners add a fruit tree or trellised vine in the center of each raised bed and add vegetables each season. The vegetables can be planted in designs like diamond patterns with herbs spilling along the edges. Gardening in Rows A garden with rows can easily be placed in a small backyard. The ground should be tilled so the soil is loose when you pick it up. The best time to prepare the ground and add supplements to the soil for a row garden is in the fall, but it should be at least three weeks before you plan to plant in the spring. Choose productive plants such as snap beans, tomatoes, radishes, lettuce, turnips, onions, greens, carrots, and peppers for a small row garden. Homestead Gardens If you have a large family or enjoy preserving food by canning, freezing, or drying produce, a homestead or large in-ground garden is ideal. Most homestead gardens are at least one-quarter acre, with many covering up to an acre of land. The rules are the same as row gardening: Provide good soil, select highly productive vegetable cultivars, control weeds, plant in a location with full sun, and provide consistent moisture. If you are planning a large vegetable garden, several tools and systems will make the work easier and more productive. A gas-powered tiller will break up the soil and can even help keep weeds under control after plants are in place. A drip irrigation system will keep plant roots moist but keep water off the leaves and fruit, helping prevent plant diseases and rot. Small In-Ground Gardens In a 10 x 10-foot sunny spot, you can quickly grow plenty of vegetables for a small family. Start with good soil and follow the tips for row gardening. What you plant depends on what you enjoy, whether leafy greens or root crops. You can grow more by planting in the spring and fall. Here's an example of what you can grow during the summer season: Three trellised or caged indeterminate tomato plants or two indeterminate tomatoes and one cucumber plant Four eggplants Five pepper plants 12 bush bean plants Partial Shade Gardens If you don't have a spot with full sun, some vegetables will thrive in partial shade, whether planted in the ground, a raised bed, or a container. Leafy vegetables, such as leaf lettuce, spinach, collards, Swiss chard, and kale, can be successfully grown in areas that receive three to four hours of sun. Radishes, kohlrabi, beets, cabbage, cauliflower, and broccoli can also be grown in partial shade. Choosing Plants for Vegetable Gardens The vegetable seedlings you select to purchase or start from seed will help determine the design of your garden. Begin your planning with what types of vegetables your family will enjoy eating, your climate and length of growing season, and the size of the mature vegetable plants. For instance, growing corn takes up lots of space; most tomato varieties produce large, sprawling plants like melon. Stake some beans and peas to keep the vegetables off the soil and disease-free. Also, do not plant some vegetables next to each other. Planting incompatible vegetables can stunt growth, welcome pests and diseases, and negatively impact flavor. For example, beans and onions should remain separate. A substance in onions can stunt bean growth. Meanwhile, potatoes and tomatoes are part of the same nightshade family and attract the same insects and diseases. If one crop is overtaken by bugs or disease, you can expect the other to be at high risk. Vegetable Companion Planting Just like some plants should not be planted together, it's a good idea to consider companion planting when space is limited to give different vegetables optimum growing conditions. Tomatoes pair well with basil and other herbs, while carrots, cucumbers, and squash work well in a three-way companion partnership. Also, it's important to rotate your crops so bugs and diseases don't establish in the soil or return repeatedly each year. Herbs, like parsley, are also great to plant alongside vegetables since they either trap or repel pests or attract pollinators and other beneficial insects to increase the garden's biodiversity. Also, consider flowers in your vegetable garden since bees and other pollinators help spread pollen, encouraging vegetable plants to grow, reproduce, and produce fruits and vegetables. Pollinators favor zinnias, sweet alyssum, daisies, sunflowers, and cosmos. Vegetable Garden Design Tips When you're ready to design your vegetable garden, these tips will help guarantee a successful harvest no matter which design you choose. Consult your local Cooperative Extension Service office for information on planting schedules and vegetable plant selections for your growing area. Do not overcrowd plants. Although they look as small as seedlings, planting vegetables too close together will lead to disease and lower yields. For a good harvest, start with good soil. The soil should be loose and filled with organic matter. Rotate crops from year to year to help prevent disease and nutrient depletion. Mulch the garden to help reduce weeds that compete for moisture. Control pests and diseases by selecting resistant varieties and learning a beneficial insect from a harmful one.

Lisianthus (Eustoma spp.) are tender perennials or biennials often grown as annuals. They grow about 1 to 3 feet tall, featuring bell-shaped flowers with flaring lobes that bloom on one or more upright stems. Flowers commonly come in white, pink, purple, and cream, and occasionally yellow, apricot, rose, or red. Foliage is dark green, lance-shaped, and slightly fleshy in texture. Lisianthus is in great demand for bridal bouquets and other special occasion arrangements. Starting with seeds, plants take up to six months to flower so most home gardeners start with commercial nursery plants and grow lisianthus as annuals. Lisianthus Care Lisanthus can be somewhat finicky to grow and care for but is worth the effort. They look good in mixed containers and borders and make long-lasting cut flowers. Plant nursery-grown lisianthus seedlings as annuals for best flowering in zones 7 and lower. Plant in organically rich soil with a neutral pH. Provide 6 to 8 hours of sun daily, and warm, dry conditions. Feed regularly with high-phosphorous fertilizer. Deadhead consistently for repeat blooms. Light Plant lisianthus in full sun, where it receives six to eight hours a day. In areas with very hot summers, a little afternoon shade won't hurt but consistent light exposure is key for best flowers and foliage. Soil Lisianthus prefers soil rich in organic matter such as manure, compost, or leaf mold. Soil should be well-draining and not remain waterlogged, which can lead to root rot. Raised beds and containers work well. Lisianthus flowers need a balanced soil pH between 6.5 and 7.0. Soil too acidic or alkaline causes yellowing foliage, less vigor, and fewer blooms. Water Provide about 1 inch of water per week to keep plants moist but not soggy allowing soil to dry out slightly in between. Overwatering leads to fungal diseases. Timing can be a challenge which makes drip irrigation a preferred method for establishing a consistent watering schedule. Temperature and Humidity Lisianthus prefers warm environments, thriving in temperatures between 60°F and 75°F. They tolerate drought but suffer in high humidity. It's only hardy in zones 8 and higher; lower than that, and lisianthus tends to be grown as an annual. It may survive temperatures as low as 28°F. Fertilizer Feed lisianthus regularly with flower fertilizer that has one and a half times the amount of phosphorous as nitrogen. Apply it according to package directions throughout the plant's growing season. A constant nutrient stream is necessary to produce well-branched plants with abundant blossoms. Types of Lisianthus Lisianthus varieties are distinguished by color and size with most blooming in summer. New cultivars are being introduced that continue to bloom into autumn. 'Balboa': This variety features more than a dozen flowers per plant, all in shades of blue. 'Flamenco': A heat-tolerant single flowered series in rose pink, white, and yellow. 'Maurine': A semi-dwarf, heat-tolerant variety perfect for containers on your deck and patio. Sapphire Pink Rim': Compact (5 to 6 inches tall) with white blooms and pink edges. 'Echo Blue': This tall variety (up to 34 inches) has dark blue flowers and blooms from midsummer up to frost. Pruning Proper pruning of summer bloomers can yield a second flush of flowers in autumn. Start by cutting stems back to the basal rosette after the initial bloom. Then pamper plants with regular irrigation and fertilizer and keep them free of weeds. Look for a second flowering around mid-September. Propagating Lisianthus In warm-winter zones where lisianthus is perennial, it is sometimes propagated by dividing the root ball in winter. You need a shovel, a sharp cutting tool, and a trowel. Cut back the stems and foliage to just above ground level. Dig up the entire plant with a shovel, keeping as many roots as possible including the long tap root. Divide the root ball into sections with a knife or trowel. Include some greenery or buds in each section. Immediately replant the pieces at the same level as in their original location and water thoroughly. New growth should begin within a few weeks. How to Grow Lisianthus From Seed Lisanthus grown from seed takes 5 to 6 months to reach mature flowering stage. In zones 7 and lower, start seeds indoors in late fall. In zones 8 and higher, seeds can be directly sown in the garden in late summer for bloom the following spring. You need trays or small pots, seed starter mix, plastic coverings, grow lights, potting soil, and general-purpose fertilizer. Prep seed trays. Fill trays or small pots with moistened seed starter. Scatter seeds. Scatter seed on the soil surface. Cover trays and keep warm. Cover with plastic wrap and set trays or pots under grow lights. Provide 16 hours of light daily and temperatures between 70°F and 75°F. Move grow lights closer and feed. Once the seeds sprout, remove the plastic and keep grow lights about one inch above the tops of seedlings. Maintain temperature between 60°F and 75°F, feed weekly with a general-purpose fertilizer at half strength, and do not allow soil to dry out. Transplant seedlings. At seven or eight weeks, transplant seedlings into a regular potting mix. Keep the temperature below 75°F, or the seedlings can go into dormancy. Continue with regular watering and fertilizing. Harden off and place outside. At around five months plants should be around 4 inches tall and can be hardened off for transplant into the garden once the danger of frost has passed. Potting & Repotting Lisianthus Shorter varieties grow well in containers filled with ordinary potting medium. Colors combine well in mixed containers with dianthus, coreopsis, baby's breath, and snapdragons. In zones where they remain outdoors as perennials, plants require annual repotting, going up one pot size each time. Plant nursery starts or plugs 3 to 4 inches apart in containers deep enough to accommodate the root ball. Taller varieties require deeper pots and may require staking. Tight placement allows plants to support each other. Terracotta and clay pots are good material choices. Overwintering In zones where lisianthus is perennial, cut back faded flower stalks for continued blooms and reduce feeding during winter months. Zone 7 is transitional where plants may survive if cut back to ground level and covered with a light mulch until spring. Though challenging, some gardeners find it possible to keep potted lisianthus growing indoors and flowering through winter. The trick is giving them enough bright light, controlled temperatures, and preventing common indoor pests such as mites and fungus gnats. Feed monthly with a weak diluted fertilizer. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Fungus gnats are a common pest of lisianthus, and first appear in the seedling stage. Larvae live beneath the soil, feed heavily on roots, and can devastate plants. Avoid overwatering and treat affected plants with a mild insecticide or neem oil. Apply neem oil in cases of spider mite infestation. Lisianthus are susceptible to plant viruses and stem cankers. Affected plants must be removed and discarded. How to Get Lisianthus to Bloom Finicky about growing conditions and care, lisianthus are highly valued as cut flowers with a long vase life. Bloom Months Bloom periods depend on climate and variety but in most areas plants flower in June and July with some types putting out a second flush in September or October. How Long Does Lisianthus Bloom? Each plant produces multiple flowers. From opening of the first bud to when the last flower fades can take between two and four weeks. What Do Lisianthus Flowers Look and Smell Like? Lisianthus flowers can be single or double. Compact varieties are as small as 5 to 6 inches in height, while taller varieties can reach 3 feet. Blossoms are often compared to roses and peonies with multiple petals but lisianthus have no fragrance. How to Encourage More Blooms Regular feeding and watering along with adequate light are necessary for abundant blooms. Deadhead spent flowers to encourage more blooms. Caring for Lisianthus After it Blooms In growing zones where lisianthus is perennial, cut plants back to the leaves radiating around the base of the plant after the initial bloom. In zone 7, you can try cutting back and mulching to keep lisianthus alive through the colder season. Deadheading Lisianthus Flowers Deadhead lisianthus flowers by cutting flower stems at the point where they emerge from two sets of leaves. Common Problems With Lisianthus Lack of full flowering is the most common problem but several other issues make lisianthus challenging to grow. Plants Topple Over Long stems are often too thin to support double-bloom varieties. Look for grow-through support rings or grids and other decorative stakes. Cut Flowers Don't Last Lisianthus can last up to four weeks as cut flowers. Harvest early in the day using sharp scissors to cut just above the basal leaves. Remove leaves below the waterline and trim stem bottoms before placing in the vase. Refresh water every two to three days.

The Persian lime (Citrus × latifolia) is the most common and what you're most likely to find for sale in the grocery store. Growing a lime tree is easy and requires relatively little care if it's placed in the right conditions. It's known for its abundant fruiting habits, whether grown in the ground or in a container. Lime trees produce fruit in around three years. Plus, the tree is pretty to look at, bedecked with petite, ovular leaves and delicate white flowers. A dwarf lime tree is about half the size of a regular lime tree, whereas key lime trees are bushier and produce smaller, more tart key limes. Learning how to grow a lime tree is a great idea if you live in a warm climate and have an open spot in your landscape. See the steps below. How to Plant a Lime Tree A newly planted lime tree requires minimal care once it is established so long as it is planted in the right conditions and area. Selecting a Planting Site Pick a very sunny spot, one that gets at least 6 hours of direct light per day and is preferably south-facing. Consider how future plantings will impact the light and choose a spot where you know future plant growth or outdoor living structures will not impede it. Amend the Soil A lime tree loves organically rich soil. If that's not what you have, amend with compost and manure before planting. Choose a well-draining area; the lime tree does not tolerate wet conditions. To aid in drainage, you can add organic matter, sand, or perlite to the soil. You can also create a mound and add amendments to help things along. Pack the soil down firmly to prevent air pockets, since they hold water. Spacing, Depth, and Support Lime trees should be spaced 15 feet from the closest tree. Your tree should be planted in a hole the same depth and twice as wide as the rootball. Unless the tree is planted in a very windy location, staking should be unnecessary. Lime Tree Care Growing a Persian lime is easy as long as you provide it with the proper care; here are some requirements that will help your lime tree thrive: Provide your lime tree with full sun, for at least six hours. Ensure your tree is given enough water and proper drainage. Plant in an area with good organically rich soil or in a container with quality potting soil. Fertilizer is not necessary but will improve the tree's health. Keep your lime tree in a warm spot at 60-90 degrees Fahrenheit.. Light Sunlight is essential; your tree will produce as much fruit as possible and stays healthy in an area with full sun. Planting your tree in a sunny location is a great idea, but this is extra important for potted plants. Soil The lime tree enjoys rich soil loaded with organics that feed the tree with the necessary nutrients. At the same time, the soil needs to be moist, but well draining. Test your soil before planting and amend it as necessary. Water Give your lime tree plenty of water and keep the soil consistently moist to get the juiciest fruit possible. Use a soaker hose to keep the soil moist under the tree's canopy to a depth of 2 inches. When the soil is dry to the touch, water again. When you plant your tree, more frequent water is needed until it has established itself. Temperature and Humidity Lime trees are native to tropical areas, so recreating similar conditions would be ideal. Keep your lime tree in a warm area; they do not do well in cold conditions. Strictly adhering to the recommended USDA zones of 9 through 11 is your best bet. Fertilizer A Persian lime will do fine without feeding, but adding a fertilizer to your care regimen will increase the tree's vigor and fruit production. Fertilize your tree with an NPK formulation in a ratio of 2:1:2 three times a year. You can find citrus fertilizers with this formula at most garden centers. Apply in early winter, late spring, and mid summer. Pollination Unlike many fruit trees, you will not have to worry about planting two lime trees for pollination. The lime tree is self-pollinating, and there is no real increase in yield seen when multiple trees are present. Types of Lime Trees The Persian lime is the most commercially available lime in the world—and what you find in the supermarket. There are also a few other species that are grown for culinary purposes: Kaffir Lime (Citrus hystrix): Kaffir lime is another very popular lime tree that produces much less fruit and is less hearty. Key Lime (Citrus × aurantiifolia): A small, tart lime tree that produces limes used mostly for baking, the key lime tree is the third most popular lime commercially. Philippine Lime (Citrus × microcarpa): This lime tree is a hybrid between the kumquat and mandarin orange. Rangpur Lime (Citrus limonia): The rangpur lime is a popular hybrid of the citron and the mandarin orange. Harvesting Persian Limes The lime tree will grow limes year-round. Once fruit appears on the tree, it will take around five months to become large and ripen to a greenish yellow with soft, tender flesh. At that point, it is ready to harvest. How to Grow Lime Trees in Containers Growing a lime tree in a pot allows you to move the tree to the area that receives the most sun, is the most convenient location for watering, and is not as prone to cold temperatures that can damage the plant. A potted lime tree requires a bit more care than an in-ground lime tree. Here's how to care for it: Choosing a pot: Use a pot with drainage holes that are considerably bigger than your tree to give it room to grow. Select a good quality organic potting soil and add a mix of organic compost. Aim for a ratio of 5:1. This mixture will give your lime plenty to feed on and limit the need for much supplemental fertilizer. Location: Place your lime tree in a sunny place. If you decide to keep it indoors, you may need to add a grow light to supplement the lighting. A broad spectrum grow light will best mimic the light you need for an abundant harvest. Watering: Potted lime trees will need their water needs monitored closely as the container they are placed in can impact the soil's ability to hold moisture. The soil should be consistently moist. Temperature: If the temperature in your area goes below 50 degrees, you should bring your lime tree inside during the cold months. Pruning the Lime Tree Your lime tree will require very little pruning since it grows very slowly. Your biggest concern will be looking for damaged, dead, or dying branches. When the tree gets some height to it, it is a good idea to prune to allow for easy harvest, but this may be a job best done by a certified arborist since a mature lime tree will require a ladder to reach the top. Propagating a Lime Tree The Persian lime is a seedless variety, so the only option to propagate a lime tree is by taking cuttings. While this is possible, it is not recommended. You may get a viable tree that produces some fruit, but it won't be as healthy or successful as a purchased sapling. The common lime tree is a variety that is grafted onto the heartier rootstock of the bitter orange (Citrus aurantium). This species is highly disease resistant compared to the Persian lime and is much more tolerant of cooler temperatures. It is therefore a much better idea to buy a commercially sold lime tree. Your tree will be healthier, produce more, be more vigorous, and live longer. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Bitter-orange rootstock ensures the lime tree does not suffer from many root or trunk diseases. The biggest disease that should be on your radar is Citrus canker. It causes brown spots on the leaves, which can move to the fruit if left untreated. Use a soaker hose to defend against this disease, but a preventive spray of a copper fungicide every year can be prophylactic. Insects to be aware of are aphids, citrus mites, scale, and leaf miners. All are relatively harmless in mature trees and can be taken care of easily with neem oil.