Tomato plants are rapidly growing vines that need support, especially once the heavy fruits begin to ripen. Tomato cages are a practical, affordable option, especially when you're growing just a few plants. Cages are designed to provide structure, support vines, and keep fruit from contacting soil which causes it to rot. Gardeners have plenty of options regarding size, material, and ease of use, but there are several factors to consider when choosing the best tomato cage for your crop. Choose the Right Tomato Cage The sturdiest tomato cages are constructed of metal, steel, or wood and may or may not have a weather-resistant finish. Powder coating extends the life of the product and protects your hands from hot surfaces when working with your plants. Cages come in several shapes including square, triangular, cone-shaped, and rings. Standards differ according to shape but a cage between two and three feet wide and four and six feet tall accommodates most tomato varieties. Many offer adjustable horizontal bars that attach with connectors, allowing you to move them up the vertical stakes as needed. Vertical stakes extend at the bottom to anchor cages in the soil. Many fold for easy storage but cone-shaped cages take up more room in the garden shed, though they are usually the least costly. A mature plant supported correctly should not fall over or collapse the cage. Cages for Determinate Versus Indeterminate Tomatoes Determinate tomatoes produce fruit all at once which increases the weight load on vines. Plenty have a bushy growing habit with shorter, thicker vines to support multiple fruits. A cage four feet tall and two feet wide constructed with sturdy materials is usually adequate. Good air circulation is especially important for compact plants, so use a narrower cage to separate and evenly spread branching vines from bottom to top. Triangular or square-shaped cages work well for determinate tomatoes. Indeterminate tomatoes produce fruits all season, harvested as they ripen. This reduces weight load, however, vines often grow to 10 feet in length. A taller six-foot cone-shaped or square cage with a three-foot diameter is better suited for indeterminate tomato varieties. Cages with movable horizontal supports allow you to adjust as vines lengthen providing structure where the plant needs it most. Cages for Potted Tomatoes Growing tomatoes in pots limits your choices to cages that fit the diameter and depth of your pot. Anchor stakes should fit down inside the pot without bending. Cages as short as 15 inches and just six inches in diameter are available but keep your tomato variety, fruit size, and height of the mature plant in mind when selecting a cage support. When to Add Tomato Cages It's always a good idea to add cages at planting time. Add cages to potted tomatoes right after planting to make sure everything fits snugly and correctly. In the garden, you can wait until young plants begin to branch out, two to three weeks after transplanting. They are entering into vegetative growth when vines grow rapidly and root systems begin to spread. Waiting too long to place a cage can leave you stymied by a tangle of vines and anchor stakes can damage feeder roots. How a Tomato Cage Supports a Plant Tomato plants have a built-in anchor called a tap root that can extend into soil to depths of three feet, but this rarely balances out heavy top growth. Cages provide additional support and help you manage vines for better disease control and fruit production. Strong vines will support fruit. When the main stem begins to branch each new vine is attached to the lowest horizontal support, separated, and placed to balance growth evenly. As vines lengthen upwards they are attached to the next horizontal support in the same manner. The idea is to reinforce their weight-bearing capacity along as much length as possible. When used correctly, a tomato cage allows good air circulation in the plant's center. It prevents stress damage to vines that can weaken and break with heavy fruit or environmental factors like high winds. How to Add Tomato Cages to Your Plants Tomato cages are an easy way to get started with an uncomplicated, workable system for supporting your crop. Select a size and design based on your tomato variety. Position the cage with the planted tomato seedling in the center. Push the anchor stakes into the soil to a depth of eight inches applying pressure evenly on the top of the cage. Extensions on the bottom are designed to penetrate the soil easily, however, if you meet resistance, try applying pressure on the lower part of the cage first, or use a mallet to gently tap the top bars. Find a section on the first branching vine with a well-developed leaf and stem on either side and place a soft tie, like twine, on the vine below the leaves. The double "V" formed by the leaves prevents the vine from slipping. Tomato vines thicken as they mature so always allow space by tying them loosely to the cage. If the branch is already flowering or a small fruit has formed, leave extra room for it to develop or choose a different spot to attach. It's fine for fruit to develop inside the cage. Knot the twine against the bar of the cage. Knots placed against vines can rub, strip the surface and invite disease and pests. Follow the plant's natural upward growth pattern and avoid attaching vines in a way that stretches or pulls. New growth is flexible and can be positioned but tying it to a support can cause it to break or wilt. Heavy rain and high winds can displace tomato cages. Reset the cage, centering it, and gently ease the anchor stakes back into the soil. Single metal, wood, or bamboo stakes can be added and tied tightly to vertical cage supports if needed.

Purple basil is a striking natural variety of green basil. Unlike Thai basil or cinnamon basil, it does not so much stand out by a different taste as by the color of its leaves. With its vibrant foliage, purple basil is a unique addition to any herb garden. The best way to use purple basil in the kitchen is as a garnish for dishes, rather than processing it for pesto or cooking with it, as the color is the most distinct when the leaves are fresh. What Is Purple Basil? Purple variations of Ocimum basilicum range in color from light red to deep purple. The varieties of purple basil offered by nurseries and seed companies today resulted from extensive breeding of purple basil varieties over many years. Purple basil tends to crossbreed and despite plant breeders’ best efforts, the desirable genetic traits of basil, namely the leaf color, are often unstable and get lost over time. Be prepared to see some variation in the plants, even in those from the same seed packet. 8 Varieties of Purple Basil Purple basils vary in height, leaf color and shape, and intensity of aroma. Some types are open-pollinated, which means that you can collect the seeds, and others are hybrids (marked as F1 in seed catalogs). The seeds from those plants are not worth saving because they won’t produce plants that are true to the parent. Varieties of purple basil include: ‘Dark Opal’ (12-18 inches tall) is a popular cultivar that has been around for a long time—it was an All-American Selection (AAS) winner in 1962. It has violet-purple leaves with a hint of licorice. The flowers are pink. In university trials, it has shown resistance to downy mildew. ‘Purple Ruffles’ (18-24 inches tall) stands out by its large, glossy, dark purple leaves that are ruffled and fringed. This is the second purple basil that became an All-America Selection winner though it does not have the same assertive anise fragrance as ‘Dark Opal’. The flowers are light lavender with a dark fuchsia throat. ‘Red Rubin’ (18-20 in. tall) is a newer, improved version of ‘Dark Opal’ with more uniformly colored leaves. The burgundy-red leaves have a traditional sweet basil flavor and aroma. The flowers are a beautiful lavender-purple color. ‘Amethyst’ (16-20 inches tall) is the darkest purple basil variety available with almost black stems and foliage. The leaves are turned downwards and have an intense basil flavor. The flowers are purple. It is also available as the cultivar ‘Amethyst Improved’. ‘Prospera Red’ (18-24 in. tall) features large (3-inch), gently cupped dark purple leaves similar to ‘Amethyst’ with a flavor of Genovese basil. The plant has an upright growth habit. It is a hybrid with resistance to downy mildew and Fusarium wilt. ‘Deep Purple’ (12-18 in. tall) has vibrant dark purple leaves with sweet basil flavor and a low rate of green off-foliage. Its uniform, upright growth habit makes it a favorite for containers. ‘Purple Ball’ (12 in. tall) is ideal for small spaces and containers with its compact, tidy, round growth habit. It forms a dense ball of small, purple-plum leaves that are fragrant and aromatic. ‘Rosie’ (12-18 in.) grows strong, upright stems, which makes it easy to harvest and ideal for bouquets it’s especially pretty with its tall lavender flower spikes. The leaves have an intense dark purple-red color with a mild and aromatic basil flavor. ‘Rosie’ has no to little green off-foliage. How to Grow Purple Basil Growing purple basis is very similar to taking care of green basil, whether you plant it in your garden or in pots (and if you have a sunny window, you can even grow it indoors). Since purple basil comes in different heights, make sure to give your plants sufficient space. Crowded conditions lead to insect and disease issues such as aphids and powdery mildew. If you start purple basil from seed, you will need to thin out the seedlings. The seed package will specify the proper spacing for the variety. Light Purple basil needs six to eight hours of full sun every day. Ample sunlight not only ensures that the leaves will be purple but also healthier, stronger plants with fewer disease problems. Soil The soil for purple basil should be moist, rich, and well-draining. If the soil is lacking these qualities, amend it with compost before planting. Organic matter not only adds nutrients but also helps to retain soil moisture. Water Keeping your purple basil well-watered at all times is key—it is not an herb that tolerates drought. Water slowly but deeply in the absence of rain whenever the top inch of soil feels dry. Use mulch around the plant base to keep moisture in. Temperature and Humidity Like green basil, purple basil needs heat to thrive. Don't plant it until the daytime temperatures remain in the 70s and nighttime temperatures are above 50°F. Basil is very sensitive to cold, which blackens its leaves. Fertilizer Unless you are growing purple basil purely as an ornamental and don’t cut it regularly, you need to fertilize the plant frequently. Use an organic slow-release vegetable fertilizer and scatter the granules around the plant base, avoiding the stem. For faster results, feed it with a liquid organic fertilizer such as fish emulsion. Follow the label directions for the frequency of applications and amounts. Harvesting You can start harvesting basil leaves as soon as the plants reach 6 to 8 inches in height. Pick the leaves regularly to keep the foliage growing. Always start harvesting basil leaves from the top of the plant and not the bottom. The flowers of purple basil are edible too. In addition to using them as a garnish, they also make a gorgeous magenta-colored vinegar.

Liatris, also known as blazing star or gayfeather, is a long-blooming perennial wildflower. It has highly unusual flower heads featuring tiny and colorful star-like blossoms arranged around a long upright bottlebrush spire. The grasslike leaves are narrow and inconspicuous, forming a basal clump, but they turn an attractive bronze color in the fall. Blazing star is adaptable to many warm and cold climates and requires full sun, and well-drained, slightly acidic soil but prefers drier winter conditions. Blazing Star Care Here are the main care requirements for growing blazing star: Plant blazing star corms in the spring after the last frost date spaced 12 to 15 inches apart and two to four inches deep. Place corms in well-draining soil that's slightly acidic or neutral. Avoid planting in clay or overly rich soil for best results. Put blazing star plants in full sun. Water new plants or corms thoroughly, and then water only during the hottest months. Light Choose a site with full sun to plant blazing star corms. These are prairie plants in their native habitat, so the more sun, the better they will perform. Soil Just about any soil, at any level of fertility, will successfully grow blazing star corms, although quick drainage is essential to prevent rot. Very rich soils may require that you stake the plants, as the stalks can be a bit floppy. Blazing star prefers a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH. Heavy clay can cause root rot, especially in winter, if the soil doesn't drain well. Water After planting, water the corms thoroughly. The corms do not need additional irrigation until stalks sprout. As the plants begin active growth, one inch of water a week during the hottest months will prevent stunted flowers and leaf scorch. Apply water to the base of the plants, or use drip irrigation, to avoid spreading fungal diseases. These plants need more water in their first year; afterward, they have good tolerance to drought and dry soil conditions. Temperature and Humidity Hardy in zones 3 to 9, blazing star is quite tolerant of summer heat and humidity in warm climates and will survive very cold winters, provided that the soil is not too wet. Wet winter soils can cause the corms to rot. Fertilizer Blazing star is not a heavy feeder, but if the soil fertility is poor you can apply a balanced flower fertilizer each spring as active growth begins. In most decent soils, however, it usually does fine with no feeding whatsoever. Types of Blazing Star L. spicata, the most common garden species, is very often planted in its original native form. Several named cultivars are popular, and there are also a couple Liatris species of note: ‘Alba’: This cultivar has pure white flowers and grows about 18 inches tall. ‘Callilepsis’: This cultivar has the expected purple flowers on especially long stems that are ideal for cut flower arrangements. ‘Kobold’: This is a smaller, more compact variety with deep-purple flower heads. This variety is a good choice for the foreground of mixed perennial beds. 'Floristan White' and 'Floristan Violett': These cultivars have beautiful, 3-foot flower spikes that bloom in July and are known for having an especially long bloom period. 'September Glory': This plant blooms from August to September with 4-foot purple spikes. L. aspera (rough blazing star): This species has purple flowers that grow from 15 to 40 inches tall, depending on location. It has less showy flowers but is a good performer for dry, barren soil. L. pycostachya (prairie blazing star or Kansas gayfeather): This plant blooms later, in August through September. It is available in white, purple, or rose-purple flowers that grow on spires reaching two to five feet tall. Propagating Blazing Star As blazing star matures, it typically develops offset corms. It's easy to propagate this plant by digging up the root corms and separating them. Doing this every few years will also help rejuvenate the plants and extend the life of a clump. Here's how: In spring as new growth is just beginning, use a shovel or trowel to dig up the entire clump. Separate the clump into sections, each with at least one thick corm with at least one "eye" or bud. Discard any corms that are soft or completely desiccated. Plant the corms immediately in their new locations, after carefully loosening the soil to at least five inches deep. Space pieces at least 1 foot apart to ensure good air circulation. Corms can also be divided in fall, and then stored over winter for spring planting. How to Grow Blazing Star From Seed Blazing star can also be grown from seed, although patience is required since the first blooms take two years or more to appear. The seeds will require four to six weeks of cold stratification to germinate. If starting seeds indoors, take these steps: Plant the seeds in small pots or starter trays filled with standard potting mix. Moisten the mix, then plant the seeds in groups of three to five seeds, just barely covering them with additional potting mix. Place the containers in a spot that receives morning sun and where nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F. Continue to moisten the potting mix until the seeds sprout, which usually takes two to four weeks. Keep the seedlings moist as they grow in a sunny location until it's time to transplant them outdoors after all danger of frost has passed. Harden off seedlings before planting them in the garden. New seedlings may need protection from feeding rabbits for the first year. Potting and Repotting Blazing Star Native perennials such as blazing star are not commonly grown in containers, but it is certainly possible to do so. Any well-draining container filled with a good porous potting mix will work. Planting and care are identical for in-ground plants, but you will probably need to water more often, as the soil in containers tends to dry out faster than garden soil. To ensure winter survival, move the containers to a sheltered location as freezing weather approaches. Some gardeners have had success placing containers in a cold frame or cool garage, heaping them with mulch, or even burying the container in the garden for winter. Don't try to bring a potted blazing star indoors to grow as a houseplant over winter, as these plants require weeks of cold dormancy to reset themselves for spring growth. Overwintering Within its hardiness range, blazing star does not need any special winter cold protection. The normal pruning routine is simply to cut off the flower stalks near ground level, though you can also leave the flower heads in place for the benefit of winter-feeding birds. Blazing star does not like wet winter soil so avoid heaping mulch over the plant crowns for the winter, as this can trap moisture and encourage bulb rot. Make sure to clean away soggy garden debris in the spring before new growth begins. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Blazing star does not suffer from any serious insect problems, but several fungal diseases can occur, including leaf spot, rust, stem rot, powdery mildew, and verticillium wilt. The best approach is to prevent these diseases by giving the plants good sunlight and air circulation. Mild fungal diseases, such as leaf spot and powdery mildew, are usually not serious and may not even require treatment. More severe diseases sometimes can be treated with fungicides, but it may be necessary to remove and destroy badly affected plants. How to Get Blazing Star to Bloom Bloom Months Blazing star typically blooms from July into late fall. Young plants sometimes withhold flowers for the first year or two until the root systems become well established. What Do Blazing Star Flowers Look and Smell Like? The pure species has bright purple flower spikes, but there are also pink and white cultivars available. Fresh blazing star does not have any scent, but dried flowers may emit a faint vanilla fragrance. How to Encourage More Blooms The largest corms will produce the most impressive flowers. For better blooms, start by choosing corms that approach three inches or more in diameter. These structurally swollen dormant stem parts will send up shoots followed by flowers approximately three months after a spring planting. If mature plants fail to bloom at all, it may be a problem of soil fertility. Try blending in a slow-release fertilizer into the soil around the plants each spring. Also, check to ensure the plant receives enough sunlight. Deadheading Blazing Star Flowers Deadheading blazing star after the first bloom of the year may encourage a second blooming. Do not deadhead any blooms if you want the plants to reseed. Common Problems With Blazing Star As a hardy native wildflower, blazing star generally thrives with relative neglect. When problems occur, it is often the result of too much care—too much soil fertility or too much watering. Flower Stalks Flop Over Blazing star is a sturdy plant, even when growing in average or poor, rocky, gravelly soil. In most cases, staking the plants is not necessary. Paradoxically, rich, fertile soils can cause the flower stalks to topple over. In this case, you may need to stake up the flower stalks. Plants Turn Mushy and Break Mushy plants that break at the ground level indicate stem or corm rot, which is caused by wet soil that introduces fungal disease into the roots or stems. Unfortunately, these plants will need to be removed. Future problems can often be avoided by reducing water or improving soil drainage.

Raspberries (Rubus idaeus), as thorny and imposing as they may be, are responsible for producing soft, red jewels of fruit. They hail from the same genus as blackberries, and while their fruits take on similar shapes and textures, there are a few differences. Growing raspberry bushes at home is completely possible. Many varieties cross a range of USDA zones, making it fairly easy to find a type that will thrive in your location. If there's a sunny patch in your garden that's missing some kind of plant, it's worth considering raspberries—they take a little while to fruit but will continue to blossom and produce year after year with the right care. How to Plant Raspberries Raspberry canes can really stand out in a garden with their bright green bushy leaves, white flowers, and red fruits. If visions of overgrown, thorny bushes are popping up in your head, don't fret—there are many ways to manage and maintain healthy raspberries. When to Plant Raspberries should be planted in early spring. It's possible to start planting towards the end of fall if you're in an area that doesn't get extreme winters. To find the perfect time for planting, find out the last frost date in your zone and plant after that has passed. Selecting a Planting Site Choose the sunniest area of your garden, even if it's prone to partial shade. Raspberries can still grow in these conditions, just ensure the bushes have enough space for their canes and root system to spread out. There should also be room for adding stakes or trellises to support the plant as it grows. Spacing, Depth, and Support You'll want to leave at least 18 inches between each cane you plant or seed you sow. Raspberries' root systems are on the shallower end, so you'll only need to push seeds in about 2 to 3 inches deep. These plants also need support for them to stretch horizontally and vertically. Trellises and stakes are suitable for smaller gardens—but for a larger row of raspberry plants, installing wooden posts into the ground with wire between is best. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Raspberry Bush Care These plants have a few requirements: sunlight, water, soil, and pollination are all key components to nurture a raspberry plant and help it thrive. They appreciate slightly acidic soil, plenty of light, and need pollinators around for their fruit to form properly and produce a sizable yield. While it may seem like a hefty job, they're relatively low-maintenance. Light It's best to place raspberries in an area that gets full sun. Optimal conditions provide raspberries with 6 to 8 hours of sunlight each day. Soil Raspberries appreciate richer soils, so amend yours by adding compost and manure. Loam soil is also great. The goal is to offer the plants a foundation that's nutrient-dense but drains well, too. Sulfur and lime1 are helpful additives for influencing the pH of your soil if it's not right for your raspberry bush. Sulfur can make it more acidic, whereas lime will increase the alkalinity. Water Raspberries need roughly an inch of water per week, but it's best to provide them with regular watering rather than one weekly deep soak. Avoid getting the fruit and leaves wet, as this can lead to disease and the fruit is prone to mold. For ease, drip irrigation set-ups are often used. With a little mindfulness of how you water them and a well-draining soil, they should be just fine. Temperature and Humidity Raspberries do completely fine in areas that remain cool throughout the year. Colder temperatures aren't detrimental to raspberries, and they usually prefer milder weather. However, there are some varieties that have been cultivated to handle hot summers, too. Fertilizer Fertilizer is a helpful way of supporting healthy growth in your raspberry plants. A slow-releasing fertilizer with nitrogen is recommended, and it's best to provide raspberries with fertilizer before the sun is high in the sky or after it has gone down. The best time to fertilize them is in early spring (about two weeks after planting) before major growth and fruit production occurs. Pollination Raspberries are self-pollinators, which makes it easier on gardeners in terms of care. Honeybees are the primary insect that helps with this process, which not only helps your raspberry bushes but boosts the biodiversity in your garden, too. Pollination is essential for the proper formation of a raspberry. Without it, the drupelets won't be healthy or fully formed enough to create a whole berry. Types of Raspberry Plants 'Amity': This variety produces large and sweet bright red fruits. It's a fall-bearing variety and extremely hardy when it comes to diseases and winters. 'Boyne': Mildly sweet and a floricane-variety, Boyne raspberries are fine for eating but ideal for making jams, jellies, chutneys, and other preserves. 'Heritage': This variety can handle hot summers and produces a healthy crop. They're primocane berries and are an easy type to grow. 'Willamette': For plenty of fruit that lasts, you can lean on the old and reliable Willamette variety, named after the location where it was cultivated in Oregon. 'Nova': This floricane-bearing berry is capable of adapting to different climates. It produces good yields and is slightly tart. Primocane-Bearing Raspberries vs. Floricane-Bearing Raspberries There are two types of canes within raspberry bushes: primocane-bearing and floricane-bearing. It can seem confusing at first, but you'll understand the difference in no time, which will help with harvesting, pruning, and overwintering your raspberry bushes. Harvesting Raspberries One of the fantastic things about this plant is how easily its fruit comes off the cane—when it's ready, that is. Using your thumb and forefinger, slightly tug or twist, and the berry should slide right off. You can wear gloves to prevent irritation from thorns when moving the canes. You'll know a raspberry is ripe when it's no longer green and is fully saturated. The color will depend on the variety, but it will typically be a bright, rosy red, golden yellow, or deep purply red. Green to greenish-pink berries indicate that they're still growing—as is any resistance when you tug at the berry—and it's better to leave these to continue to ripen. How to Grow Raspberries in Pots Raspberries are usually grown in the ground or raised beds, but it's possible to plant them in pots. Containers should be large enough to hold the bush and account for its growth and have drainage holes to prevent root rot. The best way to ensure this is by selecting smaller varieties that don't tend to spread as much as others. These include Malling Jewel, Ruby Beauty, Yummy Dwarf, Zeva, September, Malling Promise, and Autumn Treasure. Give them the same care as you usually would—plenty of sun and ample water—but aim to put your bushes in a spot that protects them from heavy winds. Pruning Pruning and cutting back raspberries is a vital part of ensuring they'll grow back and serve as a long-lasting perennial. Do an initial pruning early in spring to get rid of dead canes or anything that's diseased or suffocating other healthy growth. Propagating Raspberries The easiest way to propagate raspberries is through primocanes, also known as suckers. Suckers are fresh raspberry plants that pop up near your bush—raspberry canes are quick growers after all. To propagate from suckers: Wear gloves to protect your hands from prickly canes and stems. In early spring, select a few suckers that are around six inches tall and separate from your main bush. Carefully pull out the sucker from the soil. If necessary, you may need to dig around the plant to loosen the roots. The root system should be small enough that it won't put up too much of a fight. You can divide the sucker root systems if they're larger and then transplant them into your intended area. To propagate raspberries from cane cuttings: Use gloves to protect your hands, then with a pair of sharp and clean secateurs or shears, cut off a section of cane that's 6 or 7 inches tall. You can use a rooting hormone to support growth, but it's not essential. Push the end into your new soil patch, leaving about half to 1/3 of the cane sticking out of the dirt. The can should form its root system and begin to grow as its own bush. Depending on the type, it can take a year or two for fruiting to happen. Overwintering Raspberries are dormant in the winter and will not require as much water. Ensure you prune your plants back, which directs energy to their root systems. Don't worry too much, as their canes will return in the spring. Mulch around the soil can help with maintaining a more consistent temperature. For the most part, raspberry bushes tend to do okay and are built for overwintering. Raspberries in containers can be moved into a different area of your garden that gets shelter from wind and any heavy rain or snow. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Raspberries are appealing not just to gardeners, but quite a variety of pests, too. Japanese beetles, sap beetles, aphids, spider mites, spotted wing drosophila, and leafhoppers are a few of the bugs that enjoy chomping away. Small mammals also enjoy eating parts of the raspberry plant, including squirrels, chipmunks, rabbits, and deer. Pest nets, oils, and repellant soaps and solutions can all be beneficial. As for diseases, raspberries are typically afflicted by spur blight, powdery mildew, botrytis fruit rot, cane blights, root rot, late leaf rust, and verticillium wilt. Some varieties of raspberries are more susceptible than others to particular diseases. There are multiple ways to handle these problems, through pruning and fungicidal sprays.