Whether you start tomato plants from seeds or purchase tomato seedlings from the garden center, it's important to know how and when to transplant the seedlings into the garden. Tomatoes are ready for prime time and can be transplanted as soon as the last frost has passed. But since they love the warm weather, hold off on planting until it is comfortably 60-70 degrees F outside. In the northern U.S., this is typically mid-May, and in the southern U.S., this could be much sooner, like late March to early April. Following the guidelines of your USDA hardiness zone and the last expected frost in your area, you can successfully transplant tomato seedlings into the garden or patio containers to harvest a bountiful tomato crop. We're sharing more on transplanting tomato seedlings and planting tomatoes for a great harvest below. When to Transplant Tomato Seedlings First thing first: if you start your tomato plants from seeds, they should be moved from the seed-starting tray to a larger pot before going into the garden. This allows the root system to have room to develop. It's time to transport them into bigger pots once they have three or more sets of leaves and are three to four inches tall.1 Ideally, do this around four weeks before it is time to transplant the seedlings into the garden or an outside container. Now for what we all want to know: when can these beauties land in the garden? Larger tomato seedlings should be transplanted once the last chance of frost has passed and the weather during the day sits comfortably at 65-70 degrees F. This varies greatly depending on the USDA hardiness zone in your growing area, so be sure to check the hardiness map to see where your area falls. How to Transplant Tomato Seedlings to Pots When your tomato seedlings reach about three inches tall and have three sets of leaves, it's time to transplant the seedlings from the seed-starting tray to individual pots. Choose the right container. It should be at least four inches deep with sufficient drainage holes so the roots will not become waterlogged. The containers can be biodegradable pots that can be planted directly into the garden, recycled flower pots, or even Styrofoam coffee cups. Fill the containers with a potting mix. Do not use garden soil, it is too heavy for tender roots to develop. Moisten the mixture and let the pots sit for several hours. Water the tomato seedlings well a few hours before you transplant them to the larger pot to help prevent the seedlings from drying out during the process and help keep the seed-starting mix clinging to the delicate roots. Take your tomato seedlings out of the seed starting tray. Push the seedling out of the tray by pushing up the soil, root ball, and plant from the bottom of the tray—never pull the plant out of the tray by the stem. Place the seedlings in the new containers and add the potting mixture. Bury about two-thirds of the stem. All along the stem are tiny air roots that will develop and strengthen the plant. Lightly tamp down the added potting mixture. The top three sets of leaves should be above the top level of the mix. If there are more sets of leaves, remove them before burying the plant. Fertilize the newly repotted seedlings. Follow the label of a balanced liquid fertilizer to mix a watering solution, but dilute that solution by 50 percent. Water the newly transplanted seedlings thoroughly. Watch the moisture levels in the containers and repeat the diluted fertilization every two weeks until the plants are ready to go in the garden or outside container. Should You Harden Off Tomato Transplants? When daytime temperatures are mild and the plants have become established in the container, about two weeks after transplanting the seedlings into the larger pots, they should be acclimated to outdoor conditions—this is called hardening off. Start the process by putting the pots outside away from direct sunlight for a couple of hours each day. Gradually increase the amount of time and exposure to sunlight. Now that the plants are exposed to more light, drying winds, and higher temperatures, they will require more water. As the seedlings grow, they may need support, especially if the tomato plant is an indeterminate variety. Add several sticks around the edge of the pot to help support the plant. Do not force a stick into the soil at the base of the main stem because it can damage the roots. How to Plant Tomato Seedlings in the Garden When the tomato plants are about 10 to 12 inches tall and the last chance of frost has passed in your growing zone, it's time to plant the tomato seedlings in the garden or patio container. Before planting, make sure your garden soil is tilled to get rid of weeds, and work in some compost to create a loose planting bed. Select a planting site for the tomato plants that will receive full sun for at least six to eight hours daily. Remove the tomato seedling from the pot. Do this by pushing it up from the bottom. If the seedling is in a peat pot, cut slits in the side of the pot to help newly forming roots escape. Fill the bottom of the hole with loose garden soil and place the plant in. Fill the hole until only one-third of the tomato plant is above the soil line. The buried stem will develop more roots that produce a vigorous plant. Slope the soil slightly away from the center stem so water will not collect at the base of the plant and lead to waterlogged roots. Add support. A tomato cage or stakes can be added easily at this stage to support the tomato as it grows. Water the transplant well and check moisture level daily. If the transplant looks droopy in the mornings, it needs water. Gradually, the plant will adapt to conditions and should only need water once a week. Don't forget to fertilize. Fertilize the transplant with a balanced all-purpose plant food until the plant begins to flower and set tomatoes. Transplanting Tomatoes Into Containers For container-grown tomatoes, use a good potting mix and a container that is at least 8 inches deep, 12 to 16 inches in diameter, and has plenty of drainage holes. Place a couple of inches of potting mix in the bottom of the container and remove the tomato seedling from the small pot. Place the plant in the larger container with only one-third of the plant above the edge of the container. Fill in around the plant with potting mix and water well.

Magnolia trees are among the most popular flowering trees available, and it’s not hard to see why. Their large, showy blooms welcome spring every year, and their dense canopy of lush green leaves is often used to provide privacy or shade in landscapes. But not everyone enjoys these classic flowering trees, regardless of their beauty. They are known for being messy and requiring regular maintenance due to falling debris like leaves and petals. Magnolias also have shallow root systems, which can be a problem in areas that frequently experience severe weather events, as these trees can be more prone to damage. Additionally, if you’re on a quest to grow trees and plants native to the United States, unfortunately, magnolias don’t make the cut, says Anna Ohler, owner at Bright Lane Gardens. If you love the idea of a flowering tree but are not set on the upkeep that a magnolia tree may require, we’ve got you covered. Here are seven flowering trees to grow instead of magnolias that are just as beautiful, as recommended by gardening pros. 01 of 07 Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida) If you want a flowering tree that is also a native species, you can’t go wrong with the flowering dogwood (Cornus florida). These stunning trees boast delicate pink or white flowers in the spring, berries in the summer, and colorful fall foliage. They are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9 and are known for being relatively tidy, low-maintenance trees. The only downside? If you’re looking for a full-sun alternative to magnolias, flowering dogwoods probably aren’t the best fit. Ohler says most dogwood species prefer partial shade. 02 of 07 Crabapple (Malus spp.) Crabapples are a wildlife favorite, according to urban forester Ben Heusinkvelt. These small to medium-sized trees produce a spectacular display of flowers each year in the spring, followed by small tart fruits. There are many different species and cultivars to choose from, with several being native to North America if that’s your priority. These trees thrive in full-sun conditions, making them a great alternative to magnolias. “These cold hardy trees are drought tolerant once established and offer a flowering spectacle comparable to a magnolia," Heusinkvelt says. "One whiff of a blooming crabapple and you will be in love." 03 of 07 Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis) Contrary to the name, Eastern redbuds (Cercis canadensis) produce light purple-pink blooms that create a dazzling display in the early weeks of spring. For the best show of blooms, Eastern redbuds should be grown in a bright, sunny location, although they can tolerate part shade as well. They are hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8, with many cultivars. “There are many cultivars of the redbud, including weeping (Weeping Falls) and multi-colored foliage versions (Forest Pansy or Rising Sun)," Heusinkvelt says. "A lesser common variety is a white version known as simply a “Whitebud” (c. Canadensis.f alba.)." 04 of 07 Japanese Lilac Tree (Syringa reticulata) If you love lilac shrubs, Japanese lilac trees (Syringa reticulata) are a great choice. These unique ornamental trees are closely related to their shrubby cousins with creamy white blooms that are similar in form, but are known for blooming later, according to Heusinkvelt. Japanese lilacs grow best in full sun and are hardy in USDA zones 3 to 7. 05 of 07 Serviceberry (Amelanchier) Another native variety to love is serviceberry (Amelanchier). This genus includes about twenty deciduous trees and shrubs native to North America. These plants offer year-round interest, with flowers appearing in the spring, colorful berries in the summer, and striking fall foliage as temperatures cool. “The only downside is the spring flower display doesn't last quite as long as the magnolia's display does, but since those flowers are replaced by berries, I still consider it a win overall!” Ohler says. While hardiness zones vary depending on the species, these trees are known for being very cold-hardy. Many varieties tolerate temperatures as low as -30 F. 06 of 07 Japanese Cherry (Prunus serrulata spp.) Aside from magnolias, few other blooming trees are as popular and well-known as Japanese cherries (Prunus serrulata spp.). These trees shine in spring, boasting stunning pink or white blossoms, depending on the variety. Many different species and cultivars are available, but the ‘Kanzan’ and ‘Sekiyama’ cultivars are undoubtedly two of the most popular choices for home landscapes. These trees thrive in cold winters and warm summers and are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 8. 07 of 07 Crepe Myrtles (Lagerstroemia indica) Magnolias are known and beloved for their large volume of blooms, so if you’re looking for a similarly prolific bloomer, crepe myrtles (Lagerstroemia indica) may be your best choice. “A good runner-up as far as the number of blooms per tree is the Crepe Myrtle," says Lisa Tadewaldt, owner of Urban Forest Pro. "They [have] white or pink blooms in spring, depending on the variety." These small trees are known for growing best in warm climates, with most varieties being hardy in USDA zones 6 to 9. However, Tadewaldt says the white-blossomed Natchez variety is good for gardeners in colder regions.

Raspberries (Rubus idaeus), as thorny and imposing as they may be, are responsible for producing soft, red jewels of fruit. They hail from the same genus as blackberries, and while their fruits take on similar shapes and textures, there are a few differences. Growing raspberry bushes at home is completely possible. Many varieties cross a range of USDA zones, making it fairly easy to find a type that will thrive in your location. If there's a sunny patch in your garden that's missing some kind of plant, it's worth considering raspberries—they take a little while to fruit but will continue to blossom and produce year after year with the right care. How to Plant Raspberries Raspberry canes can really stand out in a garden with their bright green bushy leaves, white flowers, and red fruits. If visions of overgrown, thorny bushes are popping up in your head, don't fret—there are many ways to manage and maintain healthy raspberries. When to Plant Raspberries should be planted in early spring. It's possible to start planting towards the end of fall if you're in an area that doesn't get extreme winters. To find the perfect time for planting, find out the last frost date in your zone and plant after that has passed. Selecting a Planting Site Choose the sunniest area of your garden, even if it's prone to partial shade. Raspberries can still grow in these conditions, just ensure the bushes have enough space for their canes and root system to spread out. There should also be room for adding stakes or trellises to support the plant as it grows. Spacing, Depth, and Support You'll want to leave at least 18 inches between each cane you plant or seed you sow. Raspberries' root systems are on the shallower end, so you'll only need to push seeds in about 2 to 3 inches deep. These plants also need support for them to stretch horizontally and vertically. Trellises and stakes are suitable for smaller gardens—but for a larger row of raspberry plants, installing wooden posts into the ground with wire between is best. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Raspberry Bush Care These plants have a few requirements: sunlight, water, soil, and pollination are all key components to nurture a raspberry plant and help it thrive. They appreciate slightly acidic soil, plenty of light, and need pollinators around for their fruit to form properly and produce a sizable yield. While it may seem like a hefty job, they're relatively low-maintenance. Light It's best to place raspberries in an area that gets full sun. Optimal conditions provide raspberries with 6 to 8 hours of sunlight each day. Soil Raspberries appreciate richer soils, so amend yours by adding compost and manure. Loam soil is also great. The goal is to offer the plants a foundation that's nutrient-dense but drains well, too. Sulfur and lime1 are helpful additives for influencing the pH of your soil if it's not right for your raspberry bush. Sulfur can make it more acidic, whereas lime will increase the alkalinity. Water Raspberries need roughly an inch of water per week, but it's best to provide them with regular watering rather than one weekly deep soak. Avoid getting the fruit and leaves wet, as this can lead to disease and the fruit is prone to mold. For ease, drip irrigation set-ups are often used. With a little mindfulness of how you water them and a well-draining soil, they should be just fine. Temperature and Humidity Raspberries do completely fine in areas that remain cool throughout the year. Colder temperatures aren't detrimental to raspberries, and they usually prefer milder weather. However, there are some varieties that have been cultivated to handle hot summers, too. Fertilizer Fertilizer is a helpful way of supporting healthy growth in your raspberry plants. A slow-releasing fertilizer with nitrogen is recommended, and it's best to provide raspberries with fertilizer before the sun is high in the sky or after it has gone down. The best time to fertilize them is in early spring (about two weeks after planting) before major growth and fruit production occurs. Pollination Raspberries are self-pollinators, which makes it easier on gardeners in terms of care. Honeybees are the primary insect that helps with this process, which not only helps your raspberry bushes but boosts the biodiversity in your garden, too. Pollination is essential for the proper formation of a raspberry. Without it, the drupelets won't be healthy or fully formed enough to create a whole berry. Types of Raspberry Plants 'Amity': This variety produces large and sweet bright red fruits. It's a fall-bearing variety and extremely hardy when it comes to diseases and winters. 'Boyne': Mildly sweet and a floricane-variety, Boyne raspberries are fine for eating but ideal for making jams, jellies, chutneys, and other preserves. 'Heritage': This variety can handle hot summers and produces a healthy crop. They're primocane berries and are an easy type to grow. 'Willamette': For plenty of fruit that lasts, you can lean on the old and reliable Willamette variety, named after the location where it was cultivated in Oregon. 'Nova': This floricane-bearing berry is capable of adapting to different climates. It produces good yields and is slightly tart. Primocane-Bearing Raspberries vs. Floricane-Bearing Raspberries There are two types of canes within raspberry bushes: primocane-bearing and floricane-bearing. It can seem confusing at first, but you'll understand the difference in no time, which will help with harvesting, pruning, and overwintering your raspberry bushes. Harvesting Raspberries One of the fantastic things about this plant is how easily its fruit comes off the cane—when it's ready, that is. Using your thumb and forefinger, slightly tug or twist, and the berry should slide right off. You can wear gloves to prevent irritation from thorns when moving the canes. You'll know a raspberry is ripe when it's no longer green and is fully saturated. The color will depend on the variety, but it will typically be a bright, rosy red, golden yellow, or deep purply red. Green to greenish-pink berries indicate that they're still growing—as is any resistance when you tug at the berry—and it's better to leave these to continue to ripen. How to Grow Raspberries in Pots Raspberries are usually grown in the ground or raised beds, but it's possible to plant them in pots. Containers should be large enough to hold the bush and account for its growth and have drainage holes to prevent root rot. The best way to ensure this is by selecting smaller varieties that don't tend to spread as much as others. These include Malling Jewel, Ruby Beauty, Yummy Dwarf, Zeva, September, Malling Promise, and Autumn Treasure. Give them the same care as you usually would—plenty of sun and ample water—but aim to put your bushes in a spot that protects them from heavy winds. Pruning Pruning and cutting back raspberries is a vital part of ensuring they'll grow back and serve as a long-lasting perennial. Do an initial pruning early in spring to get rid of dead canes or anything that's diseased or suffocating other healthy growth. Propagating Raspberries The easiest way to propagate raspberries is through primocanes, also known as suckers. Suckers are fresh raspberry plants that pop up near your bush—raspberry canes are quick growers after all. To propagate from suckers: Wear gloves to protect your hands from prickly canes and stems. In early spring, select a few suckers that are around six inches tall and separate from your main bush. Carefully pull out the sucker from the soil. If necessary, you may need to dig around the plant to loosen the roots. The root system should be small enough that it won't put up too much of a fight. You can divide the sucker root systems if they're larger and then transplant them into your intended area. To propagate raspberries from cane cuttings: Use gloves to protect your hands, then with a pair of sharp and clean secateurs or shears, cut off a section of cane that's 6 or 7 inches tall. You can use a rooting hormone to support growth, but it's not essential. Push the end into your new soil patch, leaving about half to 1/3 of the cane sticking out of the dirt. The can should form its root system and begin to grow as its own bush. Depending on the type, it can take a year or two for fruiting to happen. Overwintering Raspberries are dormant in the winter and will not require as much water. Ensure you prune your plants back, which directs energy to their root systems. Don't worry too much, as their canes will return in the spring. Mulch around the soil can help with maintaining a more consistent temperature. For the most part, raspberry bushes tend to do okay and are built for overwintering. Raspberries in containers can be moved into a different area of your garden that gets shelter from wind and any heavy rain or snow. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Raspberries are appealing not just to gardeners, but quite a variety of pests, too. Japanese beetles, sap beetles, aphids, spider mites, spotted wing drosophila, and leafhoppers are a few of the bugs that enjoy chomping away. Small mammals also enjoy eating parts of the raspberry plant, including squirrels, chipmunks, rabbits, and deer. Pest nets, oils, and repellant soaps and solutions can all be beneficial. As for diseases, raspberries are typically afflicted by spur blight, powdery mildew, botrytis fruit rot, cane blights, root rot, late leaf rust, and verticillium wilt. Some varieties of raspberries are more susceptible than others to particular diseases. There are multiple ways to handle these problems, through pruning and fungicidal sprays.

Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) is an easy-care herb from the Mediterranean region that’s closely related to carrots and dill and is prized for its edible leaves and stems. Although most gardeners grow parsley as an annual, it’s technically a biennial herb that grows for two years before dying away. During its first year, parsley produces the majority of its flavorful leaves; however, these plants yield even more leaves, flowers, and seeds if they’re allowed to overwinter into their second year. Available in both curly and flat-leaf varieties, parsley grows well in pots or larger gardens, and it’s a must-have herb for garnishing and flavoring pasta, salads, soups, and sauces. Beyond its culinary uses, parsley is also a fantastic companion plant for most veggies and herbs, and it readily attracts pollinators and beneficial insects to garden beds, too. Here's a comprehensive guide on how to grow parsley yourself, indoors or outside. Parsley Care Tips Parsley is a delicious and attractive plant, not only to humans. Here's everything you need to know about caring for it yourself. You’ll get more use out of parsley if you overwinter your plants with mulch and let them go to seed. Second-year parsley flowers are highly attractive to predatory insects, like hoverflies, and parsley readily self-sows if you don’t deadhead old flowers. Parsley is also a top host plant for swallowtail butterflies and planting a few extra parsley plants can attract more of these helpful pollinators to your garden. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Light Parsley grows best in full sun; indoor plants may need a grow light to prevent spindly stems. In hot climates, parsley will do better in a location that receives morning sun and light afternoon shade. Soil These plants thrive in rich, well-draining soils with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Amending gardens with compost before planting is recommended. Water Like other tender-stemmed herbs, parsley needs to be watered regularly and deeply with about an inch of water per week. For improved growth, add mulch around the base of your plants, and add liquid organic fertilizer diluted to half strength once or twice during the growing season. Temperature and Humidity Parsley isn’t fussy about humidity and established plants can handle light frosts. However, these plants are at their best when temperatures range between 50°F and 70°F, and second year plants bolt quickly in hot weather. Varieties to Grow Parsley comes in a few different varieties and each type of parsley shines in its own way. Italian flat leaf: The most popular parsley for cooking, flat leaf parsley has big leaves that are easy to chop. It also has a sweeter and stronger flavor than other parsleys and is slower to bolt in hot weather. Curly parsley: Commonly grown in garden bed borders and pots, curly parsley has a milder taste than flat-leaf varieties, but its curly leaves make a striking garnish. Hamburg (or root) parsley: A lesser-known type of parsley, root parsley is a multi-use plant that produces plump, parsnip-like roots and edible greens. How to Plant Parsley Seeds Although potted parsley can be purchased at garden centers, growing parsley from seed is surprisingly easy, and can save you money on your gardening budget. Just keep in mind that parsley is a slow grower and seeds take between two and four weeks to sprout. In a Garden Starting parsley seeds outside is the easiest way to grow parsley. However, parsley seeds should only be planted outdoors after your last spring frost date. Pick a spot. Choose a sunny location and prepare the planting site by removing weeds and amending the soil with compost. Soak seeds and sow. Soak parsley seeds overnight and then sow the seeds 1/4 inch deep and about 1 to 2 inches apart in rows spaced about 12 to 18 inches from each other. Water. Water the site well and wait for the seedlings to sprout. Pick the best seedlings. When the seedlings are 2 inches tall, thin out the weakest plants and leave about 8 to 10 inches of space between the remaining seedlings. Mulch and care. Add mulch and continue to care for your parsley until harvest. Indoors If you live in a cold area and want to harvest parsley earlier, start seeds indoors about six to eight weeks before your last frost date. Soak seeds. Soak parsley seeds in water for 12 to 24 hours before planting to boost germination rates. Ready seeds in trays. Fill pots or seed starting trays with a pre-moistened seed starting mix, plant 1 to 2 parsley seeds per pot or seeding cell, and cover the seeds with about 1/4-inch of soil. Give light and water. Move the seeds under a bright grow light and water them just enough to keep the soil evenly moist. Adjust lighting after sprouting. Once the seedlings sprout, adjust the grow light as needed to keep it about 2 inches above the top of the plants at all times. Continue watering. Pick the best seedlings. When the seedlings are 2 inches tall, thin out the weakest seedlings and leave just one plant per pot or seed cell. Harden off seedlings and transplant. Harden the seedlings off over a 1 to 2 week period, and transplant the seedlings outside after your last frost date. Transplanted seedlings should be spaced about 8 to 10 inches apart in holes that are only slightly larger than the plant’s root ball. Then, water the seedlings in and add mulch. Or keep indoors. If you want to keep parsley indoors, just move your plants into a sunny spot and water regularly. Harvesting Parsley You can start harvesting parsley when the plants are about six inches tall and their leaves have three leaf segments. Harvest the outer leaves first by cutting the plant stems at the soil line with scissors and leave the center of the plant to regrow. You can harvest leaves little by little or in larger quantities, but never harvest more than 1/3 of your plant in one go and wait two to three weeks in between larger harvests. Storing Parsley Freshly cut parsley should last for about 1 to 2 weeks in the fridge if you place cut stems in a glass filled with a few inches of water like cut flowers. For longer storage, parsley can be frozen whole, chopped, or in oil. Or, it can be dried with hang drying, a food dehydrator, or an oven set on its lowest setting, and stored in spice jars in a cool, dark spot. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Aphids, leafhoppers, and carrot flies sometimes target parsley, but these pests can be avoided with crop rotation and row covers, and eradicated with organic soap sprays. Leaf spot and powdery mildew usually occur when parsley plants are grown too closely together or if they’re watered from the top down. However, you can avoid these issues by spacing parsley plants apart and watering at the soil line. Parsley also bolts quickly in hot weather, but bolting can be delayed by planting parsley in light afternoon shade and pinching flower buds before they open.