Ginseng ficus is commonly used for bonsai, particularly for its narrow elevated roots that swell into a potbelly trunk and thin at the branches before spreading out to the crown. Ginseng ficus is a tropical plant native to Southeast Asia and is a member of the Moraceae or mulberry family. Ginseng ficus grows best in acidic to neutral soil with higher humidity and full sun from a nearby window. The sap from this plant is toxic to humans, and touching it can cause skin irritation and allergic reactions; wash hands after touching it.1 Ginseng ficus is toxic to dogs and cats. Ginseng Ficus Bonsai Care Here are the main care requirements for growing a ginseng ficus bonsai: Grows best with warmth and humidity; avoid drafts. Prefers bright, indirect sun. Give water when the soil dries out. Provide fertilizer on a regular schedule once a month. Light Your bonsai will need six to eight hours of light. Indoors, placing it on a windowsill is a good idea. If this is not available, grow lights can aid in growing your ginseng ficus. If you take your tree outdoors during the summer, plan to place it in a spot with plenty of sunlight but not too much afternoon sun. The bonsai will not tolerate shade at all. Soil Ginseng ficus trees do well in a soil mix of sixty percent aggregate and forty percent organic matter. You can buy a premix or make your own using pine bark, lava rock, and a product called akadama, which holds water and slowly breaks down over time. Water Water your ginseng ficus thoroughly whenever the soil gets slightly dry, but do not water it to the point where the bonsai is dripping or fungal issues may occur. More frequent watering will be needed if your plant is in a hot environment. Cleaning Your Plant Take a damp paper towel and carefully wipe the leaves off when they get dusty. You can also use a spray bottle to mist the leaves before wiping, though this does nothing for your plant's actual water intake. Temperature and Humidity The ginseng ficus is an indoor bonsai and is not frost-hardy. It can be brought outside once temperatures are consistently above 60°F but must be kept in the sun and not allowed to dry out. Low humidity can be tolerated due to the waxy surface covering the ficus’ leaves, but it will thrive in a humid environment. Fertilizer Bonsai draw on very little soil, so it is necessary to replenish their nutrients occasionally. Any multi-purpose liquid fertilizer available at your friendly local nursery or garden center should be adequate. For bonsai, dilute the mixture by 50% with water before applying monthly. Using Ginseng Ficus as a Bonsai For newcomers to the ancient Japanese art of bonsai, a great place to start is with a ginseng ficus. It looks terrific and requires minimal care compared to other bonsai, which can be challenging to maintain. Bonsai artists especially focus on the raised roots of these funky little plants to create a particular aesthetic. In their natural habitat, these aerial roots grow easily in high-humidity environments. The effect is achieved by roots growing vertically downward from branches until they reach the soil, developing into thick, strong trunks. This can achieve the desired pillar style or the root-over-rock bonsai style, deshojo. Training a Bonsai To train your plant, use anodized aluminum or annealed copper wire. Wiring your ficus’ thin and medium branches is easy since they are flexible and bend easily. Ensure the wires are not cutting into the tree and readjust if needed. For larger branches, guy wires will be necessary and must stay on the tree much longer. Ficus trees are unique in that they can fuse their branches, roots, and other ficus plants. Pruning Pruning is necessary and part of what makes a bonsai a bonsai, not just a plant. You can forego the pruning for a year or longer to achieve a thicker trunk. When ready to prune leaves, an excellent rule is to prune back to two leaves after six to eight leaves have grown. New shoots will grow from old wood if you have left the trunk to thicken. But be sure to tend to any substantial wounds with cut paste so disease does not occur. Always use sharp and clean tools when working with your plant. Pruning Tip Looking for the best pruners for your ginseng ficus bonsai? We tested over 10 top-rated pruning shears in our Lab to make sure your plants stay happy and healthy. Propagating Ginseng Ficus Bonsai Ginseng ficus, aka ficus retusa, can easily be propagated, and there's no better time to do that than after you've pruned it. Here's how: Simply select a healthy stem and cut a 6-inch cutting with scissors or pruning shears. Put the cutting in a container that has been prepared with potting soil mix, and then water it. Place a clear plastic bag over the cuttings to create a greenhouse effect, keeping the moisture in and encouraging it to root. Water lightly every few days, making sure the soil stays moist. The cutting should root in a few weeks. Potting and Repotting Ginseng Ficus Bonsai Repotting a bonsai must happen when the root system has filled the pot. It needs to be done to give the tree new soil and to encourage a more compact root system. You will only need to repot your ficus every other year during the summer. Simply remove the tree and soil from its pot and trim its roots' outer and lower quarters. Be careful not to over-prune or remove too much root material. Place the bonsai into the original pot or a new container using the bonsai soil mix. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Caring for your ginseng ficus bonsai properly, with the correct lighting and water, will keep it strong and more resistant to pests and plant diseases. However, the ginseng ficus can get spider mites, scale, mealybugs, and aphids. Use neem oil or a liquid dishwashing soap and water mixture to remove the pests. Root rot, a fungal disease, can be a problem for ginseng ficus If overwatered. If you see any white or black spots on the leaves, trim them off and treat the bonsai with a fungicide. Common Problems With Ginseng Ficus Bonsai Ginseng ficus is easy to maintain when given the right growing conditions. Losing Leaves or Wilting Water issues, such as too much or insufficient, can cause ginseng ficus to drop its leaves. Keep the top inch of soil moist but not soggy. Leaves that are underwatered will appear wilted but should plump up again after giving water. Yellowing Leaves All leaves will eventually turn yellow and die, but prematurely yellowing leaves can be caused by overwatering or a fungal infection, like root rot.

Rosemary is great for an herb garden thanks to its fragrant and gentle nature. But like all evergreen shrubs, rosemary needs repeated pruning to help maintain the plant and keep it growing healthy. “With a plant like rosemary, whenever you make a cut above a leaf node, the plant will produce two new stems from that cut,” Annette Hird, gardener at Easy Urban Gardens, says. Hence, pruning rosemary helps the plant grow new leaves. But finding the right balance in terms of pruning is crucial. We chatted with an expert gardener to find out when, why, and how to prune rosemary. To keep this plant thriving in your herb garden, follow these helpful tips. Why Should You Prune Rosemary Plants? It’s important to prune rosemary because the plant can overgrow on one side, creating an uneven-looking shrub that leans woody in appearance. “Like any other perennial, rosemary benefits from pruning to keep the plant compact, bushy, and prevent it from becoming too woody,” Hird says. But also, pruning can encourage growth. Every time you cut above a leaf node, rosemary will produce more stems, resulting in an overall bigger and healthier plant. When Should You Prune Rosemary Plants? Rosemary responds best to pruning after it's done flowering. This can vary depending on your region and climate. Hird personally prunes her rosemary plants in early spring since they tend to flower over winter. However, it's important to not prune rosemary in late winter, especially during frost. This is because new growth needs some time to mature before winter snow. If the plant doesn’t harden in time, the plant will become too cold and could die from exposure. The safest time to prune is during the warmer months in summer. As long as you follow these general guidelines, you can prune your plant on and off throughout the year to use in recipes. “With it being an herb, you’re going to be snipping off sprigs at different times anyway,” Hird says. How to Prune Rosemary Plants Follow these steps to ensure you are pruning your rosemary plant right. Evaluate Plant Evaluate your plant’s overall look and determine where the plant is overgrowing. Then, Hird recommends cutting back any branches that are growing outside the general framework of the plant. Cut the overgrown areas of the plant, working your way around your rosemary to shape it as you like. Cut Away Damaged Areas While trimming, cut away broken or diseased sections of the plant. Just be sure to cut below the damaged areas. If you cut into the wood of the plant, these areas will not grow back, and you will be doing more harm than good. Help Its Growth If your goal is to make your plant smaller, this is the time to cut the taller sections of the plant. “For tall upright branches, cut them back by about a third to reduce the height,” Hird says. It's important to cut back a set of leaves or growth points since this helps with the continued growth. For branches that you haven’t cut, remove a short section above a leaf node. This will again encourage more growth later. How to Prune Young Rosemary Plants Still in their early growth stages, younger rosemary plants can easily be shaped into topiaries or trimmed lightly to encourage faster growth. Prune After Flowering Prune your rosemary in spring to early summer after it flowers. You don’t want to prune the plant too early because this could cause undue stress on the plant, as it's actively maturing. Cut Above the Leaf Node Be sure to cut just above a leaf node. “This is known as tip pruning. You just snip off the very tips of each branch to promote new growth,” Hird says. Shape Plants It's easy to shape younger rosemary plants into topiary spheres or hedges. If you like to shape your rosemary shrub, prune the stems a bit shorter until the plant takes the shape you want. Preserve Some Cuttings Save a few cuttings if you would like to propagate more rosemary plants. Younger rosemary plants, not older ones, are the easiest to propagate, as they are already actively growing all the time. Dip the cut end into a rooting hormone and plant the rosemary cutting in a pot to root. Use Rosemary Alternatively, if you don’t wish to plant more rosemary, this would be a great time to sample the plant in your recipes. Young, tender rosemary stems tend to be the most flavorful, adding the sweetest flavors to your dishes if you cut the sprigs of rosemary early in its life.

Magnolia trees are among the most popular flowering trees available, and it’s not hard to see why. Their large, showy blooms welcome spring every year, and their dense canopy of lush green leaves is often used to provide privacy or shade in landscapes. But not everyone enjoys these classic flowering trees, regardless of their beauty. They are known for being messy and requiring regular maintenance due to falling debris like leaves and petals. Magnolias also have shallow root systems, which can be a problem in areas that frequently experience severe weather events, as these trees can be more prone to damage. Additionally, if you’re on a quest to grow trees and plants native to the United States, unfortunately, magnolias don’t make the cut, says Anna Ohler, owner at Bright Lane Gardens. If you love the idea of a flowering tree but are not set on the upkeep that a magnolia tree may require, we’ve got you covered. Here are seven flowering trees to grow instead of magnolias that are just as beautiful, as recommended by gardening pros. 01 of 07 Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida) If you want a flowering tree that is also a native species, you can’t go wrong with the flowering dogwood (Cornus florida). These stunning trees boast delicate pink or white flowers in the spring, berries in the summer, and colorful fall foliage. They are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9 and are known for being relatively tidy, low-maintenance trees. The only downside? If you’re looking for a full-sun alternative to magnolias, flowering dogwoods probably aren’t the best fit. Ohler says most dogwood species prefer partial shade. 02 of 07 Crabapple (Malus spp.) Crabapples are a wildlife favorite, according to urban forester Ben Heusinkvelt. These small to medium-sized trees produce a spectacular display of flowers each year in the spring, followed by small tart fruits. There are many different species and cultivars to choose from, with several being native to North America if that’s your priority. These trees thrive in full-sun conditions, making them a great alternative to magnolias. “These cold hardy trees are drought tolerant once established and offer a flowering spectacle comparable to a magnolia," Heusinkvelt says. "One whiff of a blooming crabapple and you will be in love." 03 of 07 Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis) Contrary to the name, Eastern redbuds (Cercis canadensis) produce light purple-pink blooms that create a dazzling display in the early weeks of spring. For the best show of blooms, Eastern redbuds should be grown in a bright, sunny location, although they can tolerate part shade as well. They are hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8, with many cultivars. “There are many cultivars of the redbud, including weeping (Weeping Falls) and multi-colored foliage versions (Forest Pansy or Rising Sun)," Heusinkvelt says. "A lesser common variety is a white version known as simply a “Whitebud” (c. Canadensis.f alba.)." 04 of 07 Japanese Lilac Tree (Syringa reticulata) If you love lilac shrubs, Japanese lilac trees (Syringa reticulata) are a great choice. These unique ornamental trees are closely related to their shrubby cousins with creamy white blooms that are similar in form, but are known for blooming later, according to Heusinkvelt. Japanese lilacs grow best in full sun and are hardy in USDA zones 3 to 7. 05 of 07 Serviceberry (Amelanchier) Another native variety to love is serviceberry (Amelanchier). This genus includes about twenty deciduous trees and shrubs native to North America. These plants offer year-round interest, with flowers appearing in the spring, colorful berries in the summer, and striking fall foliage as temperatures cool. “The only downside is the spring flower display doesn't last quite as long as the magnolia's display does, but since those flowers are replaced by berries, I still consider it a win overall!” Ohler says. While hardiness zones vary depending on the species, these trees are known for being very cold-hardy. Many varieties tolerate temperatures as low as -30 F. 06 of 07 Japanese Cherry (Prunus serrulata spp.) Aside from magnolias, few other blooming trees are as popular and well-known as Japanese cherries (Prunus serrulata spp.). These trees shine in spring, boasting stunning pink or white blossoms, depending on the variety. Many different species and cultivars are available, but the ‘Kanzan’ and ‘Sekiyama’ cultivars are undoubtedly two of the most popular choices for home landscapes. These trees thrive in cold winters and warm summers and are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 8. 07 of 07 Crepe Myrtles (Lagerstroemia indica) Magnolias are known and beloved for their large volume of blooms, so if you’re looking for a similarly prolific bloomer, crepe myrtles (Lagerstroemia indica) may be your best choice. “A good runner-up as far as the number of blooms per tree is the Crepe Myrtle," says Lisa Tadewaldt, owner of Urban Forest Pro. "They [have] white or pink blooms in spring, depending on the variety." These small trees are known for growing best in warm climates, with most varieties being hardy in USDA zones 6 to 9. However, Tadewaldt says the white-blossomed Natchez variety is good for gardeners in colder regions.

Every gardener growing tomatoes waits for that first juicy, fresh, off-the-vine bite. When the wait seems to go on forever and fruits stay green for weeks, it could be that they aren't getting enough sun. Tomato plants need full sun, or closer to eight hours consistently every day, through all growth stages. When your tomatoes refuse to turn red, they could be getting too little sun. Here's what to know about how much sun tomatoes need, and our best advice on how to get them the light they need to give you the growth you want. Light Requirements for Tomatoes Though tomatoes will have different requirements for light depending on the growth stage, they need 6–8 hours of direct sunlight a day to produce the juiciest fruit—this is considered "full sun." Finding the perfect place to plant tomatoes takes some planning, as light exposure plays a major role through all stages of plant growth. In the early stages, poor light with high temperatures can decrease flower and fruit production, increase vulnerability to fungal and leaf spot diseases, and lead to pests. Later, not enough light produces straggly weak vines and small, poor-quality fruits. During fruit development, too much sun leads to a poor harvest with fruits vulnerable to sunscald, cracking, and uneven ripening. Vegetative Stage During the first 30 to 45 days after transplant, tomato plants grow vines and leaves. This is called the vegetative stage and may be a little shorter or longer depending on variety. Vines grow rapidly and use a lot of nutrients. Since nutrients are delivered through photosynthesis which is dependent on energy from light, a minimum six hours of bright, direct sun is needed during early growth. Flower/Early Fruit Stage Between 30 and 45 days you should begin to see small yellow flowers open on your plants. In this stage light energy supports flowering and fruit set. Small fruits start to form between 70 and 100 days depending on variety. Six hours of light is adequate and eight hours can boost fruit production. Excess heat begins to enter the equation and temperatures above 85 to 90 degrees can reduce flower production and fruit development. Ripening Stage Temperature becomes more important during the ripening phase about 30 days after fruit appears. Lycopene and carotene are pigments that give tomatoes their red color. Ideal temperatures for pigment to develop is 70 to 75 degrees F. When temperatures exceed 85 to 90 degrees F., pigment production is reduced and may even stop. Grown and cared for correctly, foliage shades fruits which takes heat out of direct sunlight for more uniform ripening. Six to eight hours is still needed to maintain healthy plants, especially with indeterminate varieties that produce fruit all season long. Why Morning and Afternoon Light Is Crucial Morning and afternoon light are both important for tomato growth. In the morning, the sun is high overhead, shining directly on the garden. At noon it reaches its highest point during daylight hours. This is when it is strongest, producing the greatest amount of energy.1 Morning light is important because it dries dew, decreases nutrient loss through evaporation, and initiates photosynthesis. Afternoon sun exposure extends the daily energy and growth cycle, giving tomatoes the sunlight quantity they need. The Best Tips to Make Sure Tomatoes Get Enough Sun Plant tomato varieties that grow well in your specific growing zone and climate. Mulch to lower soil temperature and improve moisture retention. Orient your plants in an east to west direction to access the first sunlight in the morning and throughout the day. Consider geographic features that reduce light availability or create microclimates. Avoid pruning or removing leaves during fruit formation and ripening. Plant corn or pole beans on the western side for protection from the hot afternoon sun. Leave adequate space between plants for good air circulation. Consider using white shade cloth which reduces heat but doesn't affect light quality.2 Harvest fruit early as soon as it shows color and keep in a shaded area to finish ripening.