When you’re growing a peach tree in your backyard, you need to offer the proper care and conditions to harvest a bountiful crop of delicious, sweet fruit. If you notice your peach tree leaves turning yellow, this can be an early sign of a problem. Understanding some of the common causes of this discoloration can help you take steps to nurse your tree back to health. Natural Yellowing Before you panic, don’t forget that deciduous trees shed their leaves every fall. When you see the leaves on your peach tree turning from green to yellow at this time of year, it’s likely just their natural fall foliage color. How to Fix Dropping deciduous leaves isn’t something you can fix. Peach trees do this to conserve energy and moisture during cold, dry winters before fresh green leaves develop again in the spring. Lack of Light Peach trees are sun lovers. Planting this species too close to a shade-making building or taller tree could result in yellowing leaves. How to Fix Transplant or plant your peach tree in a location that receives around 8 hours of full sun daily. Underwatering You will spot yellowing foliage if your peach tree isn’t getting enough moisture. Following this, the leaves will turn brown and dry before dropping. If your peach tree goes without adequate water for long enough, it can result in drought stress. This causes the tree's roots to shrivel and become damaged or die. When the roots can’t provide adequate water, one of the first places you see the effects is in the tree’s leaves. How to Fix Water needs vary depending on the size of your peach tree and temperatures. However, providing around one inch of water per week is a good guideline for established trees. Water slowly and deeply—if you blast it with a powerful hose, it might run off rather than soak into the soil. Young saplings might need watering as much as every two to three days. Avoid watering only at the base of the tree's trunk. Instead, water around the drip line (the edge of the tree’s canopy where rain naturally falls) as the roots expand outwards. Covering the soil around the tree with a 3—to 4-inch layer of mulch helps retain moisture, especially during scorching summers. This means you might not have to water as often. Overwatering While you don’t want your peach tree roots to be dry for too long when temperatures rise, stone fruit trees are prone to root rot if you overwater and the ground remains soggy, especially in sites with heavy soils.1 One of the early signs of this disease is fewer leaves on your peach tree, and the ones that develop will be small and yellow. How to Fix Avoid letting your peach tree roots stand in saturated soils for prolonged periods. Test the soil moisture levels using a long screwdriver or metal rod, and water only once the soil around the tree roots is dry. If the soil doesn’t have good drainage, consider adding organic matter, such as compost or grass clippings to help lower compaction and increase water infiltration. Nutrient Deficiency If the soil your peach tree is growing in lacks sufficient iron or manganese or is unable to absorb them effectively, this can reduce the production of chlorophyll (the green pigment in leaves that helps plant’s create food through photosynthesis). This common cause of yellowing leaves is frequently seen when soils have high alkaline pH levels, which make it difficult for the trees to absorb these essential nutrients. How to Fix Soil testing can help you determine whether your peach tree's soil requires more manganese or iron. Ferrous and manganese sulfate foliage sprays offer a temporary greening effect, and trunk implant capsules and chelating agent soil additives can last up to two years. Shothole Fungal Disease Peach trees can be prone to shothole fungal disease (Coryneum blight). The first signs are small red spots with yellow margins that develop into holes in the leaves. How to Fix Avoid overhead watering, prune your peach tree to remove infected branches, and, for more serious cases, apply a copper fungicide spray in the fall as the leaves begin to drop and again once the tree is dormant in winter. Peach Leaf Curl Peach leaf curl (Taphrina deformans) is another leaf-yellowing fungal disease that peach trees are prone to. It can also cause puckering, thickening, stunting, and eventual dropping of infected foliage. The disease tends to appear in the cool, wet springtime. How to Fix Unfortunately, once the signs of this disease are visible, it’s not possible to control it. However, you can apply a fungicide (chlorothalonil or copper fungicide) during the tree’s dormant period in late fall after the leaves have fallen (and before new buds begin to swell) to control the problem for the following season’s growth. Pest Infestation If you have a big enough infestation of leaf-eating pests, such as peach tree borers, aphids or mites, it can cause damage that makes it difficult for nutrients to be absorbed, resulting in yellowing of the leaves. How to Fix Vigilance and quick action before infestations get out of control is your best line of defense. Often, it’s possible to get rid of aphids or similar pests with a strong jet of water. Alternatively, apply a thorough coating of an insecticidal soap or organic insecticide, such as neem oil.

Hardy geraniums are flowering perennials comprised of many cultivars, species, and hybrids within the Geranium genus, collectively called cranesbill geraniums. These are commonly-grown, low-growing, dense, carpet-like plants, not to be confused with zonal geraniums. These perennials have flower stalks that poke and weave through neighboring plants, floating on top of the plant. The small white, blue, pink, magenta, purple, lavender, and blue flowers are one inch wide and cupped-shaped, attracting butterflies and bees. Hardy geraniums grow best in well-drained, moderately rich soil. Most will do well in either full sun or partial shade, but they like to be fairly dry—they can become prone to mildew if kept damp. Note that geraniums are toxic to pets. Hardy Geranium Care Here are the main care requirements for growing a hardy geranium: Site them in a spot with full or partial sun; more sun equals more blooms. Give regular water, especially if in a full-sun location. Plant hardy geraniums so that the crown is at ground level or slightly above. Prune them after flowering to prompt repeated blooming into the fall. Prefers neutral to slightly acidic soil. Give well-balanced, time-released fertilizer if the soil is poor. Light Hardy geraniums accept a wide range of exposure conditions. For the best flowering and vigorous geranium plants, site them in full sun to partial shade. If geraniums are grown in hot, full sun, provide regular water. Some varieties of geraniums can tolerate full shade, but they likely won't blossom as fully as those with plenty of sun. Soil Geraniums are not particular about soil pH, but a neutral to slightly acidic soil is ideal. Most prefer medium-moisture, well-drained soil, though some species prefer relatively dry soil. Water Geraniums are a low-maintenance plant, so water them only when the soil becomes dry. If located in full sun, water the plant more frequently. Hardy geraniums can become prone to fungal disease if watered overhead. Temperature and Humidity Hardy geraniums grow best in daytime temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees and nighttime temperatures between 50 and 60 degrees. They tolerate a wide range of humidity levels, though mildew and rust can be non-life-threatening in very humid regions. Fertilizer Unless the soil is very poor, hardy geraniums generally do fine with no feeding other than a yearly application of compost. Poor soils might require a spring feeding with a time-release balanced fertilizer. Types of Hardy Geranium There are as many as 300 types of geraniums available to grow, some pure species, others nursery-created hybrids. The pure species are popular garden plants, but many named garden cultivars originate from hybrids achieved by crossing species within the genus. Geranium 'Johnson's Blue': This variety is thought to be a hybrid between G. himalayense and G. pretense. It is one of the most popular varieties, growing about 18 inches tall with sky-blue flowers. It is suitable for zones 4 to 8. G. sanguineum: This species, sometimes known as bloody cranesbill, is a relatively low-growing, clumping form that produces reddish-purple flowers from May to June, with lesser flowering into the late summer. It is grown in zones 3 to 9. Several good cultivars are available: 'Album,' with white flowers; 'Elke,' with soft pink flowers; and 'New Hampshire Purple,' with violet flowers with white eyes. G. himlayense: Known as lilac cranesbill, this species is hardy in zones 4 to 8 and produces violet, indigo, and blue flowers in early to mid-summer. It grows 9 to 18 inches in height. Geranium × oxonianum' Wargrave Pink': The most commonly grown geranium with salmon-pink flowers grows 18 to 24 inches tall in zones 3 to 8. Geranium' Rozanne: A violet-blue hybrid that flowers almost non-stop throughout summer. It grows 18 to 24 inches tall in zones 5 to 8. Geranium 'Ann Folkard': This is one of the earliest blooming geraniums with magenta flowers that repeat bloom throughout the season. This hybrid has a trailing habit and grows six to eight inches tall in zones 5 to 9. Geranium 'Double Jewel': Double-white petals feature a lilac center. It's short and sometimes grown containers because it grows 10 inches tall. It is hardy in zones 4 to 8. Geranium 'Southcombe Double': Double, pure pink blooms resemble fluffy asters. It grows ten inches tall in zones 4 to 8. Pruning Hardy geraniums require little care once established. They can get scraggly after blooming, and deadheading is difficult because of its many wispy stems. Shearing the plants back to basal growth will improve their look and encourage re-blooming. The plants fill out within weeks. The exception is G. macrorrhizum, which is easily deadheaded and needs no shearing. Propagating Hardy Geraniums Cranesbill geraniums can be divided and replanted through early summer. Nursery plants or divisions will quickly reach flowering maturity within their first year and slowly spread to fill available space. Plants started from seed can take several years before they flower. Most species of hardy geranium live longer if divided every three to five years, though you can divide more frequently to keep them from spreading or to obtain new plants. Once you see the center dying out, it is time to divide. Divide the geraniums from early spring to early summer, giving the plant time to establish roots before a frost. Here's how: Begin by digging up the plant and shaking the soil off the roots. Use a trowel or a knife to separate the root ball into pieces, ensuring each division has a root section and leaves. Replant each divided section at its original depth. Thoroughly water the newly planted divisions. How to Grow Hardy Geraniums From Seed Many hardy geraniums will self-seed readily, even taking root in sidewalk cracks. They do not spread uncontrollably and are rarely a problem. The volunteer seedlings can be easily dug up and transplanted elsewhere. You can also collect and plant seeds in the garden or seed-starter trays. Hybrids and many cultivars do not come true from collected seeds; these must be propagated by root division or other vegetative methods. Hardy geraniums are relatively slow-growing plants, and when started from seeds, it can take three to five years before they are mature enough to flower. Here's how to plant from seed: Get planting cells or 2-inch pots filled with moistened potting soil. Lightly cover one seed per pot or cell with soil. Cover the pot with clear plastic to keep the soil humid to promote germination. Keep the pot in a warm spot, at least 75 F, with bright, indirect light. Keep the soil moist. Germination can take place within three days or three weeks, depending on the conditions. Uncover the plastic and give half-strength fertilizer once a seedling emerges. Potting and Repotting Hardy Geraniums Unlike the popular zonal geraniums (Pelargonium), hardy geraniums are perennial plants rarely grown in containers. That said, there's no reason you can't do it. Use an oversized pot that will give the plant plenty of space to grow, and fill it with any standard commercial potting mix. The container can be made of any material but must have good drainage. Spread out the roots of the geranium as you plant it. Hardy geraniums don't like waterlogged soil, so weekly watering should suffice. They are relatively slow-growing plants, so repotting is required only when roots begin to poke out the drainage holes—this can take as long as three years. In colder climates, move the pots to a sheltered spot for the winter to protect the roots. These plants are not suitable for moving indoors to grow as houseplants. Overwintering Hardy geraniums generally require no winter protection against cold, but it is good practice to cut off the stems to just above ground level and discard the debris as winter approaches to eliminate fungal spores that can often cause powdery mildew. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Hardy geraniums are relatively trouble-free plants. Slugs might attack young geranium plants, while mildew and rust can infest foliage, especially in partial shade and humid climates. Shearing back and disposing of the infected leaves will help. To avoid mildew, give the plants plenty of space to improve air circulation and water through ground soaking rather than overhead spraying. Mildew spores are spread from water splashing against the soil. How to Get Hardy Geranium to Bloom When hardy geraniums fail to bloom as you expect, it's usually for one of these reasons: Too much moisture: Most hardy geraniums like relatively dry conditions; if they are overwatered, they will withhold blooms. Not enough sun: These plants typically want at least six hours of sun daily, and if they don't get it, flowering will be more sparse. The foliage itself, though, is often appealing enough to warrant growing the plant even in relatively shady conditions. Too much fertilizer: These plants thrive on little to no fertilizer, and if fed too often, the result can be excessive foliage at the expense of flowers. Fertilizers heavy in nitrogen are especially problematic. Replanted too deep: When replanting into a larger container or in a new site, do not replant them too deep; it can prevent them from flowering. Bloom Months Hardy geraniums typically bloom from May to September, generally from early summer to early fall. How Long Does Hardy Geranium Bloom? Hardy geraniums bloom for about three months. Often, there is one particularly heavy flush of flowers, with fewer blooms continuing in subsequent months. Shearing back plants after the main flush frequently stimulates more blooms to follow. What Do Hardy Geraniums Flowers Look and Smell Like? The flowers are five-petalled, usually pink, purple, blue, or white. Some have a mild, pleasant scent, if at all. Deadheading Hardy Geranium Flowers Most geraniums are wispy and difficult to deadhead. It's best to shear the plants to the base after flowering to promote more blooms to appear. The only hardy geranium worth deadheading is Geranium macrorrhizum, which is easy to deadhead. Common Problems with Hardy Geranium Hardy geraniums don't need much to grow well, but they do have some issues that come up occasionally. Overgrowth Hardy geraniums spread easily in the garden as a pleasing ground cover that weaves among other plants to block weeds and can grow somewhat invasively, spreading via underground rhizome rooting structures. Fortunately, hardy geranium is relatively easy to dig out and eliminate. Leggy Growth After flowering, hardy geraniums can become somewhat leggy and sparse. It's easy to shear or cut back the sparse stems, stimulating new growth.

Watermelon is a popular melon that can be grown in any garden, as long as you have adequate space and sunlight. One tricky aspect of growing watermelon is knowing when the mature melons are ripe enough. It's important to pick them at the peak of ripeness because, like other melons, they don't continue to ripen off the vine. We're sharing 10 telltale signs to look out for when your watermelon is all ripe and ready to harvest. Weight If the watermelon feels dense and heavy for its size, this can be a good indicator of ripeness. The heavier the melon, the more juice has formed inside. But if you're not sure how heavy a watermelon should be, find two melons of approximately the same size and weigh both in your hands. You can practice this technique in the grocery store, too, to get a feel for how dense and heavy a ripe melon should feel. The Stem Is Mostly Brown If the watermelon stem has turned brown or is more brown than green in color, this is also a potential sign of ripeness. This indicates more energy from the vine has gone into the melon. Dried Out Tendrils The tendril is the curly section of the stem opposite where the watermelon is attached to the vine. Once the tendril turns brown and dry, the watermelon is ready to harvest The Ground Spot Is Yellow The ground spot (also sometimes called the "field spot" or the "belly spot") is usually a small round area on the watermelon where it has been lying in contact with the ground. Once this spot turns yellow, it's a sign the melon has ripened while still on the vine. Don't pick the melon if this spot is still white. If your watermelon doesn't have a ground spot, use some of the other signs to determine its ripeness. Note: this method won't work for miniature watermelons that are grown vertically on a fence or trellis. Smooth But Dull Skin Surface The surface of the watermelon skin should be dull and not shiny. A shiny rind or skin is still too immature to be harvested. The skin should also be free of cuts or bruises. Blossom End Firmness The blossom end of the watermelon is the one opposite the stem. Press gently on this spot; if it's mushy, the melon is overripe. If it's solid, the melon is underripe. If it presses in slightly, the melon is ripe for harvest. Smell A ripe watermelon will have a sweet but not overpowering smell when you sniff the blossom end. If the smell is overly sweet, rich, or cloying, the melon may be overripe. Vibrant Color Your watermelon may have any number of color characteristics depending on the variety; some melons are solid color and some have stripes. Look for a photo online of the variety to get a sense of how deeply colored a ripe one is (often a seed packet will have a photo of a ripe melon also). Wait until the melon reaches a vibrant color before harvesting. Even a watermelon that tends to be a paler green will reach a richer color as it gets ripe, so this is a sign along with the others listed to help you determine ripeness. Uniformity of Shape Different varieties of watermelon have different shapes: some are round, while some or more oval. You want to aim for a uniform shape with no unusual lumps or flat spots. Hollow Interior Sound Thump gently on the surface of the watermelon with your knuckles. A hollow, crisp, and resonating sound is a sign the watermelon is ripe. You will also feel a slight vibration. If the sound is dull and not resonant, the melon is not ready for harvest yet. How to Harvest When you've determined your watermelon is ripe enough to harvest, follow these techniques to do it properly. Cut It Off Cut the melon from the vine with a sharp knife or pruning shears. The watermelon may not pull loose on its own. Clean It Down Gently clean the melon with a soft cloth and mildly soapy water and rinse thoroughly. This is to remove any potentially harmful bacteria (that might be in the soil or left behind by garden wildlife) that might transfer from the skin into the fruit when you carve into it. Store Properly Store your watermelon at a temperature of between 50-60F. If stored at temperatures above 75F, the shelf life is only about 5 days. It's best to eat your watermelon as soon as possible after picking it. If you have any leftover cut portions, place them in the refrigerator.

Peach-picking season extends from June to August, and they are ready to harvest during that period when their skins turn yellowish-red—that's how you know they're perfectly ripe. If you want to grow the tastiest peaches, these quick and easy tips will help you determine exactly when to pick peaches for sweet and juicy fruit every time. When to Pick Peaches Some varieties of peach trees fruit earlier than others, but most peaches are harvested from late June through August. That said, various factors can influence when peach trees fruit—chilly spring weather, drought, and other environmental conditions can delay peach harvesting season. Fresh peaches taste best when they mature outdoors on the tree, but harvesting can be a bit of a balancing act. If you pick peaches too early, you’ll have hard, flavorless fruit. But if you pick peaches too late, your harvest may turn mushy or get gobbled up by birds. Rather than relying on the calendar date, it’s usually best to pick peaches when the fruit displays particular signs of ripeness. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! 5 Signs Your Peaches Are Ripe If you want to time your peach harvest for perfectly ripe fruit, watch for these signs: Color. Ripe peaches should have uniformly, golden yellow skins, which may display tinges of red, orange, or pink. If the peaches still have green coloration, they aren’t ready yet. Scent. Underripe peaches don’t emit much scent, while fully ripened fruit can be incredibly fragrant. In fact, a peach tree laden with ripe peaches can perfume a small garden with a sugary sweet fragrance. Shape. Peaches become rounder as they ripen, while underripe peaches look like green olives with a slightly elongated shape. Feel. If you harvest a peach and it still feels firm or crunches when you bite into it, it’s not ripe. Fully ripened peaches should be slightly soft and give a little when you gently press into their skins. Taste. Of course, you can also test whether or not peaches are ready to pick by trying a taste of a peach or two. When the fruit is as sweet and juicy as you like, it’s time to harvest. How to Pick Peaches Peaches ripen at approximately the same time, although fruit towards the exterior of the tree and the tips of the tree branches typically ripens a little earlier than fruit growing at the center of the plant. When your peaches are ready to harvest: Grasp a peach in one hand and the supporting branch in the other hand. Give the peach a little twist with your fingers. If the peach is fully ripe, it should detach easily from the tree. After harvesting, gently place peaches in a bucket, basket, or harvesting apron and handle them gently to prevent bruised skin. It’s best to avoid washing peaches until you’re just about to use them as excess moisture can speed up decay. To maintain freshness, keep ripe peaches in the fridge, or freeze, dehydrate, or can them for even longer storage. What to Do If You Pick Peaches Too Early While it’s best to allow peaches to ripen on the tree, if you happen to harvest peaches a little early, don’t worry. Unlike citrus fruits and cherries, peaches can continue to ripen after harvesting. To ripen peaches: Place your peach harvest on your countertop and allow it to ripen out of direct sun for a few days at room temperature. Or, place the peaches in a brown paper bag to help them ripen even faster.