Gray birch is a fast-growing, medium-sized North American native tree that stands out for its attractive color-changing bark, long-lasting catkins, and slender silhouette. This adaptable type of birch tree is easy to grow in full sun or part shade. It tolerates most soils but prefers wetter locations and temperatures that aren’t too high. Gray Birch Care Here are the main care requirements for easy-to-grow gray birch trees: Position in full sun or partial shade. Plant in a cool and moist site with little competition from other species. Water regularly in dry sites during the growing season. Mulch to retain moisture and cool soil. Grows in most soil types, from poor to loamy. Fertilizer is not a typical requirement. Light Gray birch trees do best in a partial shade location. Receiving morning sun means their foliage will look the most impressive. These trees can handle a full sun position, especially in cooler regions, but avoid planting in a full shade location. Soil One of the biggest advantages of gray birch trees is their ability to grow in most soils. For this reason, some enthusiasts refer to the species as the ‘poverty birch’. They can thrive in poor, infertile, rocky soils, rich loamy varieties, and heavy clay. They do prefer a well-drained but moist site. Water While gray birch trees can handle occasional periods of dryness, they do best in consistently moist soils. They have a shallow root system and don’t appreciate extended droughts or high temperatures. Your birch tree won't need supplemental watering in a naturally moist site with sufficient rainfall. If the site is drier, watering deeply over a few hours once a week during the growing season is recommended. An amount of 8 to 18 inches should be sufficient.1 The moisture levels are sufficient when the soil can form into a ball in your hand rather than crumbling. Mulching around the tree base also helps to conserve water. Temperature and Humidity The gray birch isn’t a tree to plant in hot, sultry southern states. This species does best in cooler climates where temperatures are unlikely to exceed 75°F and humidity levels aren’t too high.2Mulching around the tree base also helps to keep the soil consistently cool. Fertilizer Landscape trees such as the gray birch rarely need supplemental nutrients to thrive.1 Only apply fertilizer for this species if a soil test reveals there is a particular nutrient deficiency. If you are fertilizing, use a slow-release formula in late fall or early spring, avoiding application when the ground is frozen. Fertilizing in the summer or early fall can cause late growth that won’t harden off in time for the cold winter months. Pruning A big advantage of the gray birch is that it does not require heavy pruning. Excessive pruning—more than 25% of the canopy—can be detrimental to the health of the tree.1 Too much light getting down to the soil can increase soil temperatures and decrease moisture levels—something you don’t want for a gray birch. If you do need to prune, it should just be to remove any broken, dying, or dead branches in the late summer or fall. Avoid pruning from May to the end of July. This is when bronze birch borers are in flight and these pests are attracted to fresh cuts made after pruning. Propagating Gray Birch Propagating gray birch trees by rooting branch cuttings is tricky but not impossible. If you want to try this technique, being mindful of the low success rate, try following the steps below: Take an 8-inch cutting using sterile pruning shears from a branch tip with healthy new growth. Cut below a leaf node (the lump on the stem where a leaf grows from). Keep any leaves growing on the top half of the cutting and remove the leaves on the bottom few inches. As an optional step, dip the base of the cutting in rooting hormone to increase the chance of it taking root. Plant the cutting in a well-draining, moist potting mix. Loosely cover the pot and cutting with a clear plastic bag. This helps retain a beneficially moist environment. Position the pot in a spot that receives bright but indirect light, and that is away from drafts. Ensure the soil remains evenly moist without being soggy. If successful, the cutting should take root within eight weeks. Once the cutting has fully taken root and remains securely in the soil when you tug, it is ready for transplanting. Transfer the cutting to its permanent location; try not to damage the roots. Keep the transplant evenly moist for the next two months. The propagation technique has succeeded if you see new growth emerging from the cutting. How to Grow Gray Birch From Seed Growing gray birch from seed is a more reliable way to produce a new tree than propagating from cutting. To attempt this technique, try following the steps below: Collect the seeds from catkins as they turn from green to brown in the fall. Stratify the seeds for at least one month in a refrigerator or unheated garage to break their dormancy and prepare them for germination. Sow the seeds in a container of rich potting soil. Cover seeds lightly with a shallow layer of soil and dampen with water. Move the container to a warm spot where it receives bright but indirect light, and keep the soil evenly moist. Keeping in a cold frame helps provide an ideal germination environment. Within a few weeks, you should see signs of germination. Thin out the seedlings as necessary, aiming to select the strongest-looking individuals. When the seedlings are strong enough for handling, prick individuals out and put them into their own pots. Keep them in the cold frame for their first winter. Transplant the successful seedling to its outdoor position after the last frosts in the spring. Overwintering Watering deeply and mulching the tree base in late fall helps preserve moisture and maintain consistent soil temperatures around the roots. Additional watering may be required if you experience a dry winter, but don't leave the soil soggy. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Bronze birch borer infestations can be a problem for gray birch trees. An infestation will result in chlorotic leaves, leaf drop, and the death of upper branches on the tree. Without insecticidal treatment, infestations can eventually kill the tree.3 Fortunately, the gray birch is not as bothered by this pest as some birch species, and healthy trees are less likely to suffer damage than stressed and weak ones. There is also a cultivar, Betula populifolia ‘Whitespire Senior’, which is particularly resistant to these insects. Avoid planting your gray birch in soils with high alkaline pH levels—this can also lead to chlorosis (a yellowing of leaves that would normally be green). Also, watch out for leaf miner attacks (these burrowing larvae are treatable with insecticides) and cankers (infected, dead areas on branches).

If you’ve tried growing spinach but struggle to get this leafy green to do well when temperatures soar, why not try lesser-known orach (also known as mountain spinach) instead? This fast-growing, hardy, ornamental annual is more resistant to heat and drought while packing a similar nutritious punch. It's a forgiving plant that grows in most soils, but it needs a full sun position and prefers an evenly moist, rich medium to produce the healthiest harvest. Orach Care Here are the main care requirements for growing beginner-friendly orach: Position in full sun. Plant in a well-draining, moist soil to prevent bolting. Fertilize regularly or amend soil with organic matter. Prune tall plants to produce the most flavorsome leaves. Light While orach is a hardy and forgiving plant, one thing that’s essential for good growth is a full sun position. Soil Orach grows well in most soils, provided they are well-draining. However, it prefers loamy soils that are organically rich and with an element of moisture-retentiveness. This plant tolerates a wide range of pH levels and is ideal for highly alkaline soils, which some species struggle with. Orach is also known for being tolerant of high levels of salinity. Water While orach is a reasonably drought-tolerant plant, insufficient water typically results in bolting. This premature seed production means the leaf harvest might not be usable. It's best to water freely in dry conditions to keep the soil evenly moist without letting the roots stand in water. Adding a layer of moisture-retaining mulch can be helpful during periods of drought. Temperature and Humidity Orach is adaptable to a wide range of temperatures. One of its biggest advantages is its heat tolerance. It does best in temperate climates, with temperatures between 40°F to 75°F. However, you can still enjoy a bountiful, tasty harvest during a heatwave, provided you keep the soil moist. Light freezes aren't a problem for orach, but when they are sustained, the plant will die. Orach is also good for exposed sites, as strong winds don't phase it. Fertilizer Fast-growing orach loves rich, fertile soils, so consider amending the soil with organic matter such as leaf mold compost or manure. A couple of times during the growing season, you can also offer an additional nutrient boost by feeding an NPK fertilizer formula that is high in nitrogen. This ensures the focus is on foliage growth. Types of Orach Tall-growing, leafy orach is often grown for its ornamental value as well as its nutritious leaves, and this is especially true of the ‘Fire Red’ cultivar. The red shade on the leaves remains even after cooking, making it an attractive addition to decorative dishes. There are also white (pale green) and green (dark green) color variations. Pruning Orach can grow to 6 feet tall. However, keeping it low by clipping helps produce tender leaves that aren't too bitter. Pruning and ample water also help reduce the chance of bolting during hot, dry periods. Propagating Orach It's easiest to propagate fast-growing orach by directly sowing the seeds in your garden anytime from March to August. If you want a successive supply of leaves through the growing season, sow at four-week intervals across this time. Follow these steps to encourage germination: Space rows of seeds around 20 to 30 inches apart after the danger of frost has passed. You don't need to start this hardy species indoors. Sow seeds so they are just lightly covered with soil (less than half an inch deep). Space individual seeds around 1 to 2 inches apart. Keep the soil evenly moist. Once they germinate, thin seedlings to around 6 to 10 inches apart. Tender, flavorful leaves should be ready to harvest between 40 and 60 days after sowing the seeds. Trim off individual leaves with garden scissors once they reach a size where you like the taste. Alternatively, harvest the whole plant once it is around 4 to 6 inches tall. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Hardy orach is typically disease- and pest-free. However, it might become host to a couple of rare bugs. These include the beet cyst eelworm (Heterodera schachtii) and the tortoise beetle (Cassida nebulosa).1 Removing the orach and rotating the crops for a couple of years with non-susceptible plant species is often the best way to eliminate eelworms. Tortoise beetles can be removed by hand before infestations get out of control. Aphids can also sometimes be a problem. Occasionally, the plant can also suffer from Wisconsin tobacco disease (Pseudomonas syringae pv. mellea) or bacterial canker (Pseudomonas syringae pv. syringae).1 While rare, both these bacterial pathogens can be tricky to diagnose and treat. Again, sometimes it's best to dispose of infected plants and rotate with non-susceptible plant species. Common Problems with Orach Orach is a plant that’s easy to grow in your vegetable garden or cottage garden flower beds. But even hardy species won’t thrive if you don’t offer the conditions they prefer. Below are some early warning signs you need to make some changes if you want to benefit from a bountiful harvest. Yellowing Leaves If your plant’s leaves are turning yellow, you must do some detective work. This commonly relates to insufficient light, over- or underwatering, or pest problems. You might need to reposition your orach plant into a sunnier spot or adjust your watering schedule to ensure evenly moist, not soggy soil. Stunted Growth If these tall, erect, and fast-growing plants don’t seem to be developing as you would expect, they could be infected with a pathogenic nematode, like the beet cyst eelworm. Selecting potatoes as a companion plant can also result in stunted growth. Companion Plants Generally, orach does well with companion plants also suited to spinach or amaranth. Below are a couple of suggestions of what to plant alongside this species. Sweet Alyssum Sweet alyssum (Lobularia maritima) is a beautiful flower that attracts hoverflies. These beneficial insects eat aphids, helping to control the populations which can sometimes be a problem for orach.2 Legumes Peas and beans provide a beneficial nitrogen boost to soils. This is ideal for helping to promote the growth of leafy plants like orach.

How much cold can tomatoes tolerate? Tomatoes are notoriously cold-sensitive, so it helps to know what to do with the plants when temperatures drop. Your tomato plants may still have unripened or partially ripened fruit on them when the thermometer plummets to the freezing mark. Learn how to protect your tomato plants when the cold weather moves in. Watch for Signs of Cold Tomatoes Signs of cold damage on tomatoes, especially young plants, are not always visible. Here are signs to look for if you think your tomatoes are too cold: Light tan or gray spots appear on the leaves of young plants in the spring. A healthy plant can outgrow any damage from a brief cold snap. Any darkening of the leaf or stem tissue will later wilt and turn brown. The leaves are curling. Signs of cold damage that show up on the plants later include: A damaged plant will have poorly set fruit. Plant growth will look stunted. Large-fruited tomato varieties will have deep crevices or holes and scarring in the blossom end (catfacing). A spring cold snap can result in distorted, malformed tomatoes when they are just ripening. Dry, brown scars that look like zippers running from the stem to the blossom end of the tomatoes indicate damage. Damaged tomatoes ripen unevenly.1 Start Tomato Seeds at the Right Time Prevent cold damage by starting your tomato plants from seed indoors at the right time. If you start the seeds too early it will still be too cold to move them outdoors. It's best to start tomatoes from seeds six to eight weeks before your area’s last projected frost date. Don’t Expose Young Plants to Cold Temperatures below 60°F can subject highly cold-sensitive tomato seedlings to chilling injury. The damage won't be noticeable right away but the plants will experience stunted growth, poor flowering and fruit set, and catfacing. Wait to plant the tomatoes until nighttime temperatures remain consistently above 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Take your time hardening off the plants before planting them outdoors in your garden or containers. Select Early- or Mid-Season Tomatoes Choose cold-tolerant tomato varieties bred to set fruit in cooler temperatures below 55 degrees Fahrenheit. These varieties typically also mature earlier. Early-season varieties mature in 52 to 70 days and mid-season tomatoes in around 70 to 80 days. There are many different varieties, both hybrid tomatoes and heirloom tomatoes. Popular varieties include Early Girl (52 days) and Better Boy (75 days). Ripen Green Tomatoes Indoors If the weather forecast calls for frost, don't cover the plant. Instead, pick all unripe tomatoes from your plants and ripen them indoors. How to Protect Tomatoes on Cold Nights If there are still green or semi-ripe tomatoes on your plants around the time of your first average fall frost, keep an eye on the weather and consider these two ways to cover and protect your plants. Bubble Wrap If your plants are growing in tomato cages, protect them by wrapping bubble wrap around the entire cage, including the top, and use duct tape to secure it. It's a good time to prune the plant and remove excess foliage before wrapping it up. Remove the bubble wrap the next morning or you run the risk of excessive heat build-up under the plastic that will cook the plant. Sheets and Blankets You can also cover the plants with old sheets or light blankets held in place with sturdy stakes. Loosely tie a strong string around the plant to secure the cover from blowing away. Promptly remove the cover in the morning.

Raspberries are gems in the garden, and to help them thrive, pay attention to what you plant nearby—by companion planting for raspberries, you might just get a bigger harvest. Whether you are planning to grow wild raspberries or cultivated varieties, you want the plants to thrive and produce abundant fruit. One way to help the plants along is to pay attention to what crops and plants are located near the raspberry bushes. Learn more about what plants are great companions to your rows of raspberry canes and which plants should never come near them. 11 Good Companion Plants for Raspberries Raspberries prefer full sunlight and well-drained, sandy loam soils rich in organic matter so it is important to select companion plants that have the same requirements. Since raspberries are usually trellised, there is plenty of room at the bottom of the canes for companion plants. Garlic: The pungent odor repels Japanese beetles that can harm the raspberry fruit and leaves. Leeks, Onions, and Chives: All are members of the Allium family with odors that repel harmful insects and deer. Marigolds: Effecting in controlling certain nematodes, microscopic worms that feed on plants. Lavender: Attracts bees and butterflies for pollination. Nasturtiums: Attracts pollinators and repels whiteflies, squash bugs, and aphids. Yarrow: Repels harlequin beetles that feed on raspberry plants. Chamomile: Attracts pollinators. Mint: Repels aphids. Turnips: Attract the harlequin beetle to prevent it from targeting the raspberries. Spring Cover Crops: In the early spring, sow a cover crop such as buckwheat, rye, millet, or oats to improve the organic matter in the soil and to kill out perennial weeds. The crop should be turned into the soil before it goes to seed. Late Summer Cover Crop: Sow a cover crop like spring oats just after the harvest of the raspberries is complete. The oats aid in hardening off the raspberry plants for winter by absorbing excess water and nutrients in the soil, reducing soil erosion, and smothering weed growth. What Not to Plant Near Raspberries Just as some plants can be beneficial to the growth and fruit production of raspberries, others can transmit plant and soil diseases that can harm raspberries. Tomatoes: A member of the nightshade family, tomatoes can carry verticillium root rot that can affect raspberries. If there have been no tomatoes in the soil near the plants for four years, the area is safe for planting. Blueberries: Blueberries require acidic soil to thrive while raspberries only need mildly acidic soil. Planting both fruits together will allow only one to thrive. Potatoes: Another nightshade, potatoes can spread the verticillium virus to raspberries. Peppers: Avoid planting raspberries in an area that has grown peppers until four years have passed. Strawberries: Strawberries are susceptible to the same root-rotting diseases as raspberries. Land that has been planted with strawberries for four years or more can build up a population of root-rotting diseases and should not be used when planting raspberries. Eggplant: Another nightshade spreader of verticillium root rot, keep them away from raspberries. Wild and Cultivated Raspberries: If planting cultivated raspberry varieties, destroy all wild raspberries within 600 feet of the site to reduce the possibility of spreading viruses. Boysenberries, Blackberries, and Gooseberries: Avoid planting raspberries near similar bramble fruits to prevent the transfer of soil-borne fungal diseases. What Is Companion Planting? Companion planting has been done for centuries and is the practice of growing different plants together for mutual benefit.1 A classic example is planting "the three sisters" or corn, beans, and squash together. The corn supplies a support system for the climbing bean vines, the beans provide nitrogen to fertilize the soil and stabilize the tall corn during heavy winds, and the large leaves of squash plants shade the ground to help retain soil moisture and prevent weeds. Unlike other gardening areas, much information about companion gardening is not always based on hard scientific facts, but more on observations and garden lore found in farmers’ almanacs. However, some studies confirm the benefits of separating certain crops from others to prevent soil diseases and nutrient depletion.