Gerbera daisy is native to South Africa and part of the Aster family. The varieties that you'll find at nurseries and in seed catalogs today are hybrids bred for their vividly colored flowers. Gerbera daisies are divided into four classes: single flower, semi-double flower, double flower, and spider flower. In warm climates, Gerbera daisies are grown as tender perennials that come back every year. In areas with cold winters, they are treated as annuals and planted in garden beds or containers after all danger of frost has passed in the spring. If you live in a climate where winters are cold and snowy, it is best to buy nursery-grown starter plants. Gerbera daisies establish themselves at a moderate pace, delivering their first flowers within 14 to 18 weeks and continuing to bloom throughout the summer. Gerbera Daisy Care Here are the main care requirements for growing a Gerbera daisy: Select a location that receives full sun to partial shade in the hot afternoon hours. Plant Gerbera daisies in soil that is rich in organic matter and slightly acidic. The crown of the plant should be about 1/2 inch above the soil line. Water newly planted Gerbera daisies regularly, and established plants about 1 inch of water per week. Feed them monthly during the spring and summer with a water-soluble fertilizer. To keep Gerbera daisies blooming and showy, deadhead spent blooms. Light Gerbera daisies thrive best under full sun but do not like intense heat. If you live in a particularly hot climate, try to plant your Gerbera daisies in a location with afternoon shade. Avoid planting flowers near a structure that reflects heat onto the plant, such as a foundation or stone wall. Soil Start your Gerbera daisy bed with rich soil high in organic matter and well-draining, ideally with a soil pH between 5.5 and 6.5—levels higher than this cause chlorosis, which manifests with yellow stripes on the leaves. Additionally, black spots or patches appear on the leaves if the pH level is too low. Water Water Gerbera daisies around 1 inch per week, when the soil has dried an inch or two below the surface. During hot and dry spells or when getting established, water more frequently. Only water Gerbera daisies lightly in the winter, since they are dormant during the cold months. Temperature and Humidity Gerbera daisies grow best in USDA hardiness zones 8 through 10, though they will need winter protection in zone 8. In cooler climates, gardeners grow Gerbera daisies as annuals. The flowers prefer a cool (but not cold) winter temperature of about 45°F to 50°F. Gerbera daisy plants have no special humidity needs. Fertilizer The amount of fertilizer your Gerbera daisies need depends on the quality of your soil. During the spring and summer, fertilize the plants every two weeks with a water-soluble fertilizer that is high in phosphorus and low in nitrogen. Alternatively, spread compost around the plants monthly. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Types of Gerbera Daisies ‘Terracotta’: Double-type Gerbera daisy flower with double yellow petals and a hint of peach surrounding its dark red eye ‘Winter Queen’: Crested double Gerbera daisy with white petals and a black central disk or eye ‘Giant Spinner’: Full-crested double Gerbera daisy flower with two rows of outer petals and two rows of inner petals; the first row of inner petals surrounds and covers the disk at the center Pruning Gerbera Daisies As Gerbera daisies wilt or fade and petals are about to fall off the flower head, deadhead or prune the flower stems to the leaves where they emerge. Deadheading extends the blooming period. Trim the dying bud off of Gerbera daisies before they go to seed. Pinch or trim off shabby or older fading leaves to encourage new leaf growth. Propagating Gerbera Daisies Gerbera daisies can be propagated from cuttings, divisions, or seeds. Propagation from cuttings and division are best done in the spring or summer during the most active growth period of the plant. Dividing mature plants helps to keep them vigorous, maintains air circulation around the plant, and promotes flowering. To propagate from cuttings: In the summer when there is plenty of new growth on the plant, take cuttings from the base or the side shoots. Have a new pot, fresh potting soil, and rooting hormone (optional) ready. Dip the cut end of the cutting in rooting hormone to help the cutting develop a root system faster. Plant the cutting in a pot filled with fresh, moist potting soil. Keep it out of direct sunlight and water the cutting when the soil surface feels dry to the touch. Once you see new growth and the cutting has rooted (gently wiggle the stem to test), move the pot to a location with full to partial sun. Keep it watered. Wait until the cutting has grown into a vigorous little plant before transplanting it into the landscape or a bigger container. To divide plants: In the early spring, just as the new growth starts, dig out the entire plant with all of its roots using a shovel or a spade. Have a sharp knife, a new pot or pots, and fresh potting soil (optional) ready. Cut through the roots with the knife or spade, separating the root ball into two or more parts depending on its size. Replant each part at the same depth as the original plant, or in new pots with fresh potting soil. Water each division thoroughly and keep it watered until it is established. How to Grow Gerbera Daisies From Seed Although most Gerbera daisy varieties are easily grown from seed, they are relatively slow to develop, which narrows the window of their single-season growth period, unless you start the seeds indoors in late winter or early spring. Starting Gerbera daisies from seed outdoors is feasible only in warmer climates where they won’t succumb to the first fall frosts. To grow Gerbera daisies from seed, start the seeds indoors approximately 12 to 18 weeks before the average last frost date in your region. Sow seeds in peat or paper pots, since Gerbera daisies do not like having their roots disturbed by transplanting Press the seeds gently onto the top of your soil mixture. Do not bury them—they need light to germinate. Cover your pots with plastic wrap or a lid to help keep the soil and the exposed seeds moist. Place the seeds in a warm, sunny spot (a temperature range of 70°F to 75°F is best) and wait approximately 2 to 4 weeks for germination. Transplant your seedlings outdoors after all danger of frost has passed and harden them off before planting. Potting and Repotting Gerbera Daisies Gerberas should be repotted yearly or every two years in the spring before new growth begins, especially once roots crowd the pot. Select a pot one size larger than the current one with at least one large drainage hole. Remove the Gerbera daisy by turning the current pot over in your hand, supporting the root ball. Brush away excess soil, snip browned or diseased roots, and place the root ball atop of bed of about 3 inches of new soil and fill around the sides. The root ball should sit about 1 inch beneath the rim of the new pot. Water until water comes out of the drainage holes. Overwintering If you are gardening in USDA zone 8 to 10, cut Gerbera plants back to about 1 inch above soil level before the first expected frost. The plants survive the winter outdoors if protected with mulch up to a depth of 3 to 4 inches. In zones 6 or cooler, dig up your Gerberas after pruning, pot them, and move them to a brightly lit, cool room between 45°F and 60°F for the winter. Common Pests and Diseases Gerbera daisies are easy to grow outdoors but susceptible to some pests and fungal diseases. Common Pests Aphids, whiteflies, spider mites, and thrips all feast on Gerbera daisy leaves. They're attracted to stressed plants, so keep your plants in good health and monitor them regularly for signs of trouble. Small populations are easily blasted off with a strong spray of water. To control larger populations, use insecticidal soap or natural horticultural oils like neem.1 Leafminers may also infest the leaves which will show the telltale sign of tunneling. Remove any damaged leaves. Common Diseases Powdery Mildew: While unsightly, powdery mildew is mostly an appearance issue and rarely fatal to the plants. It does stress the plant, and severe or repetitive infections weaken it and make it prone to other diseases and insect damage. Use pruners to remove the portions of your plants that have visible powdery mildew on them. If the entire plant is affected, be assured that it will subside as the season changes. Crown or Root Rot: The fungal culprit for crown or root is Phytophthora cryptogea, which causes stunted growth, affects flower production, and leads to leaf and stem wilt. The plant root appears rotted, brown, or black. If left untreated, the entire plant will die. Crown or and root rot often affects the plants when their soil is wet. Make sure not to overwater and allow the soil to dry out between waterings. However, do not leave the plant unwatered for so long that they wilt and become drought-stressed. Botrytis Blight: The fungal spores of Botrytis cinerea cause a velvety coating over infected flowers and leaf tissue. Other signs of gray mold are pock marks or brown spots on the leaf stalk and tan spots on flower petals. To prevent it, ensure good circulation around the plant during high humidity periods and water the soil, not the flowers and leaves. To treat it, remove all infected parts of the plant. Apply a fungicide formulated to treat botrytis. How to Get Gerbera Daisies to Bloom Bloom Months Gerbera daisy blooms most prolifically during the spring months and again in the fall. But the plant may bloom intermittently throughout the growing season. What Does Gerbera Daisy Look and Smell Like? A circle of ray petals in orange, red, yellow and cream hues surround a darker center disk. Flowers may be 3 to 6 inches wide. Gerbera daisy has no scent. How Do I Encourage More Blooms? Gerbera daisies generally bloom for several weeks and will flower longer with these tips: If the foliage is getting excessively bushy, remove some of the clustered center leaves to let more light in. Summer heat will often end Gerbera blooms early; consider moving them indoors in hot weather to sustain the flowers longer. Fertilize the plants every two weeks with a high-phosphorus, bloom-boosting fertilizer. Deadheading Gerbera Daisy Deadheading, or removing the spent blooms, will keep the plant looking neat and encourage further flowering. Common Problems With Gerbera Daisy Iron Deficiency Leaf yellowing on lower leaves or the yellowing of plant tissue between the green veins is usually caused by iron deficiency, which may also affect flower production. The deficiency is either caused by insufficient iron in the soil or fertilizer or by a soil pH exceeding 6.2. Other factors that impede nutrient absorption are temperatures below 68°F, soggy soil, and rotten or damaged roots, Check temperatures, soil moisture, pH levels, and root health to determine the cause. If needed lower the soil pH or add iron chelates to the soil. Avoiding overwatering. Wilting Plant Overwatering or under-watering a Gerbera daisy can cause it to wilt. Excessive heat may also be the culprit; water deeply and, if necessary, move the plant out of direct sunlight during midafternoon hours.

Growing figs can be extremely rewarding—even beginning growers can learn how to grow a fig tree in a small yard or roomy planter with minimal fuss. With their large, lobed leaves and slender, woody branches, common figs (Ficus carica) have lots of ornamental appeal, but they’re mostly grown for their edible fruit, which turns purple, brown, or yellow when ripe and can be eaten fresh, cooked, or dried. These fast-growing trees thrive in warmer regions and are typically planted in late fall or early spring. However, growers in cooler climates can keep figs by growing hardy, dwarf trees in pots and overwintering them indoors. If you’ve ever dreamed of making luscious desserts with homegrown figs or are simply on the hunt for a unique fruit tree for your garden, you’re in luck. You’ll find all the tips you need to grow fig trees right here. How to Plant Fig Trees Figs are typically sold as either bare root trees or potted plants. Both types of trees are planted using a similar technique. However, if you’re transplanting a potted fig, you may need to tease apart or cut through circling roots before planting to encourage healthy growth. When to Plant While indoor figs can be planted in pots at any time of the year, outdoor trees should be planted in early spring or late fall, when the trees are dormant and the ground is workable. Selecting a Planting Site Figs can tolerate partial shade, but they’ll grow and fruit better in full sun. When you’re ready to plant, select a spot that receives at least 6 hours of direct light daily and has rich, well-draining soil, and plenty of space for figs to spread out. Planting figs in a south-facing location can be particularly beneficial in cooler areas. If you’re growing figs in pots, keep plants on a sunny patio or porch during summer, but move them indoors or into greenhouses before winter arrives. Spacing, Depth, and Support To plant outdoor figs, dig a hole slightly wider and deeper than your tree’s root ball and amend the soil with some compost. Gently wiggle potted figs out of their nursery containers, taking care not to damage their roots. Bare root trees will usually need to soak in water for a few hours before planting. Position the tree in the center of the planting hole. If you’re working with a bare root plant, heap soil into a low mound in the center of the hole to support the tree’s trunk. Then, evenly fan the roots out around the planting hole. Backfill the hole until it’s mostly filled, and then water well to help the soil settle in. If you’re growing multiple fig trees together, full-sized figs should be spaced at least 20 feet from each other and buildings. Dwarf trees can be planted a bit closer together. Fig Tree Care Most fig trees take about 3 to 5 years to fruit, although potted figs may fruit earlier. Providing figs with the right balance of light, nutrients, and water during this time is essential if you want trees to remain healthy and produce a large harvest of future fruit! Light Outdoor figs need 6 to 8 hours of direct light, while indoor figs can do well in sunny, south-facing windows. In low light homes, keep figs under a grow light for 8 to 12 hours a day. Soil Figs can tolerate a range of soils, but slightly acidic, well-draining, loamy soils with a pH of between 6.0 and 6.5 are ideal. Standard potting mixes will work for potted figs, while compost blended into planting holes can help outdoors figs thrive. Water Water container-grown and young fig trees regularly with about 1 inch of water per week. Established, outdoor trees may not need any additional water beyond rainfall. Temperature and Humidity Figs grow best in zones 8 and up, although cold hardy figs can be grown outdoors in zones 6 and 7 with winter protection. In colder areas, figs should be cultivated as container plants and moved indoors or into greenhouses in winter. Humidity is rarely an issue with these trees; however, indoor figs may benefit from the addition of a humidifier in homes with dry air. Fertilizer Fig trees are not heavy feeders and inground plants are usually content with an annual application of compost or balanced fertilizer in spring. If you add compost to your planting hole when transplanting, you typically won’t need to apply fertilizer until the following spring. Potted figs need more attention than inground plants and should be fertilized about once a month in spring and summer with a balanced fertilizer. Pollination Some figs need insect pollinators, but common figs are self-fertile and self-pollinating plants that don’t need insect pollination or other fig trees to fruit. Types of Fig Trees Growers can find a variety of edible fig trees, but it’s important to choose figs that are well-suited for your growing location. Dwarf figs are best for container gardens, while cold hardy figs are more likely to thrive in chilly regions. ‘Brown Turkey’: A versatile fig choice, ‘Brown Turkey’ can be grown in pots or inground gardens and it yields medium-sized, sweet fruits with reddish-brown skins. ‘Celeste’: Relatively cold and heat tolerant, ‘Celeste’ is disease resistant, and produces ultra-sweet fruit with purple skins. ‘Little Miss Figgy’: This dwarf fig only grows about 4 feet high, but it produces large harvests of medium-sized figs with excellent flavor. Harvesting Figs Figs are harvested in late summer to early fall when the sweet and juicy fruit develops its mature color and starts to soften. A tell-tale sign that figs are ready to pick is when the ripening figs droop on their branches. To harvest, grasp a ripe fig in one hand and the supporting tree branch in the other, and gently lift the fig away from the tree. Ripe figs should be easy to pick! Figs don’t last long after harvesting and they can only be kept in the fridge for about 2 to 3 days. For longer storage, try canning, drying, or freezing. How to Grow Fig Trees in Pots Potted and outdoor fig trees have similar care needs, although container-grown plants may need to be fertilized and watered more regularly. Mature trees need 15 to 20-gallon pots to grow, but younger plants can be kept in smaller containers. Be sure to select a pot with plenty of drainage holes, use a well-draining potting mix, and position your fig in a spot that receives lots of bright light. Pruning Pruning is generally not needed for fig trees, although you may want to shape young figs by clipping away wayward branches. After that, simply prune away damaged, weak, or broken stems when the trees are dormant in winter and thin out excess fruit as needed to keep branches from breaking. Propagating Fig Trees Figs can be propagated in several ways, but the easiest options are layering and rooting stem cuttings. Layering works best in warm areas where temperatures never dip below freezing. Simply anchor a low-growing fig branch to the ground with landscape staples so the base of the stem is buried in soil and at least 8 inch of stem and leaves are above the soil line. Allow the buried fig branch to develop roots, and then cut the branch from the parent plant. If you live in a colder area or simply prefer to propagate fig trees from prunings or stem cuttings, here’s how to start: Using sharp pruners, cut several healthy, 8 to 12-inch stem cuttings from the parent fig in spring when figs are still dormant but the danger of frost has passed. Each cutting should be about as wide as your pinky finger and the stem ends should be cut on a slant near a leaf node. Add sealant to the cut stem end to prevent disease and dip the end of the cutting in rooting hormone. Fill a 6-inch pot with potting mix and plant four cuttings per pot with the cut stem ends buried several inches deep. Cover the pot with clear plastic to boost humidity. Move the cuttings into bright, indirect light and water only when the soil feels dry. Once the cuttings produce significant new growth, transplant them into large pots or outdoors into your garden if the weather is mild. Overwintering In warm areas, outdoor figs need little winter care; however, in cooler locations, you may want to wrap fig trees in burlap and protect their roots with mulch. Container grown figs can be grown year-round indoors or in greenhouses, but they typically won’t fruit unless they’re subjected to a period of cold. For maximum fruiting, keep potted figs outdoors until a light frost arrives and the tree drops its leaves. Then move the bare fig tree into a cool, dark, and protected spot, such as a garage or basement, and water sparingly once a month until spring. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Protecting outdoor figs with fruit protection bags can prevent birds and other wildlife from nibbling on ripening fruit. Figs can sometimes develop diseases like fig leaf spot and rust, but minor pests like aphids, whiteflies, scale, and mealybugs are more common, especially in greenhouses.

If you're growing potatoes (Solanum tuberosum) in your garden, you might be surprised to see them start to bloom. While we grow potatoes for their edible tubers that develop underground, it's important for potato plants to mature above the surface, too. Depending on the potato variety, potato flowers can come in a range of different colors and shapes. But should they be removed? What Potato Flowers Look Like Potatoes are a nightshade, a family of flowering plants that also includes plants like tomatoes, eggplant, and peppers. Because of this, potato flowers have a similar shape to tomato or eggplant flowers. Different potato varieties produce different flower types—some might be large and vivid, while others smaller and clustered. Potato flowers can be white, purple, pink, blue, or red, with anthers (the part of the stamen that contains pollen) that can be yellow, red, or dark purple. The blooms' coloring can sometimes serve as clues to the possible colors of the skin and flesh of the potatoes growing underneath the soil. Why Potatoes Produce Flowers Flowering is a normal part of a potato plant's lifecycle, and their presence indicate the plant is healthy and maturing properly. Generally, potato plants will start flowering a few weeks before the potatoes are ready to be harvested. You should harvest baby potatoes (new potatoes) two to three weeks after they've finished flowering, and harvest potatoes for storing (mature potatoes) two to three weeks after the plant's foliage has died back. Like other flowering plants, a potato plant produce blooms in order to reproduce. If pollinated, potato blossoms will grow small green fruits that resemble underripe cherry tomatoes. Each potato berry contains around 300 seeds that can technically be planted and used to grow more potato plants. However, these green potato berries contain solanine, which is very toxic even in small amounts, and they should not be eaten. And most potatoes are grown from seed potatoes, a potato that has been grown to be replanted to produce a potato crop. If your potato plants aren't producing flowers, don't fret. Potatoes don't always bloom, and the flowers are not required to produce tubers. In fact, some potato varieties barely produce blooms at all—whether or not a potato plant flowers doesn't affect the quality or quantity of the potatoes it produces. What to Do When a Potato Plant Flowers When you see your potato plant start to produce flowers, this is an indication that tubers are developing underground and will be reader to pull up from the ground soon. When you see them blooming, you can either prune them away or leave them be—your decision will depend on a number of different factors. If you're growing potatoes in an area that small children or pets can easily get to, it is wise to remove the potato flowers to prevent them from developing into toxic green potato berries. Removing the potato flowers might also help increase potato yield, as the energy the plant would normally send to produce fruits and seeds is redirected to forming the tubers below the ground. However, removing potato flowers is an optional step. If their presence is non-threatening to children or pets, it's perfectly fine to let your potato plants flower if you want to enjoy their vibrant blossoms.

Ensure that you are watering your plant according to its needs—not too much, and not too little. Check your plant regularly for signs of pests, fungus, or other topical maladies. Consider if your plant is getting everything it needs, including space and soil nutrients. Taking care of plants is rewarding, especially when it comes to fruit trees or other edible plants. But it quickly becomes a stressful endeavor when you spot a mystery problem, such as your citrus leaves turning yellow. Whether it's an orange, lime, grapefruit, or lemon tree's leaves turning yellow, we've rounded up some of the most common reasons why the foliage might be full-blown yellow or speckled with spots, as well as solutions, straight from experts. Overwatering People who care deeply for plants can be so concerned with underwatering that they end up overwatering their tree. Soggy soil can lead to root rot for the likes of lemon and orange trees, leading to yellow leaves and other problems. "It’s best to repot the plant as soon as possible if you’ve accidentally overwatered it, or if you notice that the soil is very compact and dries out pretty slowly," says botany expert Nastya Vasylchyshyna. When doing so, replace old substrate with fresh, dry soil, and examine the plant's roots, cutting off any rotten parts with sterilized pruners. Then, treat the remaining roots with fungicide, Vasylchyshyna recommends, and your tree should be as good as new. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Underwatering On the other hand, a lack of water can also cause the leaves on your mandarin, lemon, orange, and lime trees to turn yellow and eventually dry out entirely. The good news? Vasylchyshyna says it's totally possible for your tree to bounce back. "If your citrus is lacking moisture, water it more frequently and generously, soaking the soil all the way down," she says. "You can trim any bare, leafless shoots to encourage new growth." It's easy to assume that watering requirements are the same across the Rutaceae family, but it's good to look at the specific variety you've planted, how old it is, and where it's located in your garden or home. Nutrient Deficiencies Nitrogen, magnesium, zinc, nitrogen, manganese, and iron deficiencies are common among citrus tree varieties. You can combat this with soil testing and a complex fertilizer that can counteract any low or high levels of nutrients in the soil where your tree is planted. "Make sure the plant food you choose has the right ratio of macronutrients—such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium—and contains necessary micronutrients as well," says Vasylchyshyna. She recommends a fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 2-1-1. You'll want to adjust this as the seasons change and your citrus tree flowers. Stick with the aforementioned ratio in spring and summer. "Once the citrus starts to flower, reduce the share of nitrogen in favor of potassium (an NPK ratio of 1-1-2 or 1-1-1)," she says. "During the fruiting season, keep the nitrogen levels low and increase the share of phosphorus and potassium; a fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 1-2-2 works best at this time." Plant Diseases There are a handful of diseases that can inflict your citrus tree and lead to the yellowing of its leaves. Some are specific to certain varieties of citrus, whereas others you'll find wreaking havoc across various tree types. One of the main diseases citrus trees are susceptible to is chlorosis; this issue can arise through a few different factors—from pest infestations to overwatering to physical breakages. In many instances, you may want to prune a lemon tree or other citrus variety to stop the spread. Pests Like any plant or tree, citrus fruits can attract a range of bugs to its branches. While some are undoubtedly essential and supportive (like pollinators), some cause trouble for your trees. One example in particular is spider mites. "These pests can be quite hard to spot, especially early on, as they hide on leaf undersides and in leaf axils," says Vasylchyshyna. "They pierce leaves and suck the sap from plant tissue, which causes the foliage to turn yellow." Give your trees thorough examinations, using a magnifying glass to spot any tiny critter infestations. Oftentimes, the best way to solve for these problems are through hosing down the tree and using an insecticide or acaricide. Fungus Fungi can cause problems for citrus trees and lead to the development of diseases, with common symptoms being yellow leaves. Fungicides are usually the most effective way of clearing out the fungus; oil is another helpful solution. Before taking action, visually determine the exact type of fungal problem your tree is having and the best fix depending on the kind of tree you have. The Pot A common, though unexpected, culprit of yellowing leaves is often the pot your tree is in. Trees growing in a planter as opposed to in the ground may feel restricted, leading to yellow leaves. "When choosing a pot, make sure it accommodates the root system, leaving just enough space for new growth," Vasylchyshyna says. "If your citrus gets root-bound, it can't properly absorb water and nutrients." If this happens, repot your plant as fast as possible into a container twice the size of the previous one. While doing so, loosen the roots of your plant to encourage healthy growth. Once this is done, be sure to give it plenty of attention and care so it can recover from the shock.