One of thirteen junipers native to North America, the Skyrocket Juniper (Juniperus scopulorum) is indigenous to the western United States and Canada. A slow-growing conifer in the cypress family, it is typically narrow and pyramidal in form, growing to 30-40 feet tall. The reddish-brown bark sheds in thin strips and the foliage is silvery-blue to dark green and lies flat against the branches. As additional interest, the cones are waxy blue and berry-like and are enjoyed by birds and small mammals. Commonly called the Rocky Mountain Juniper, the tree prefers full sun, moist, well-drained soils and does well in dry, sandy soil. It is drought, salt spray, erosion, dry soil, and air pollution tolerant. It does not thrive in wet soils, high humidity, or high night temperatures. Skyrocket Juniper Care Once established, a Skyrocket juniper requires very little care. It grows best in full sun in well-draining, dry soils. Since it is slow-growing, pruning is not required other than removing damaged or broken branches. The junipers make an excellent hedge or screen and tolerate most conditions except soggy soils and excessively heavy ice storms. When planting as a hedge, space the trees at least 24 inches apart to allow for growth while maintaining full privacy coverage. If planted in a well-chosen location, Skyrocket juniper has no serious threats from diseases or insect pests. If you desire heavy cone production, plant male and female specimens near each other. Light While some cultivars can withstand partial shade, the trees will thrive when planted in full sun or in a location with 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day. Soil This tree is adaptable to loam, rocky, sandy, and even clay soils, the area must be well-draining. Soggy soils1 will result in root rot and stunted growth. It can tolerate periods of drought, salt spray, and erosion. The soil pH should be neutral - not too acidic or alkaline. Water Once established, the trees seldom require supplemental watering. They prefer dry roots. Newly planted trees should be watered deeply once a week or so for several months to establish deep roots and then watered sparingly. The trees do not fare well in areas with wet winters and can develop root rot. Temperature and Humidity Skyrocket junipers prefer cooler climates and low humidity. In rainy areas, they may be susceptible to blights which causes the dieback of the stem tips. Because they prefer low-humidity areas, the trees are susceptible to injury or death from fires due to their thin, stringy bark and the volatile oils contained in the branches. Fertilizer It is usually unnecessary to fertilize this tree unless you have a soil deficiency. However, if you do feed the tree, the juniper will benefit from a slow-release fertilizer feeding in early spring and once again during the growing season. Fertilizers that are high in nitrogen (16-4-8 NPK) will promote lush green growth. Do not feed late in the growing season. Types of Skyrocket Juniper There are numerous Juniperus scopulorum cultivars with slightly different foliage and growth patterns. Juniperus scopulorum 'Blue Creeper': Blue foliage, low-growing, mounding shape. Juniperus scopulorum ''Blue Arrow': Narrow, upright growth with blue-green foliage. Juniperus scopulorum 'Wichita Blue': Compact, conical shape with blue to blue-gray foliage, male plant. Juniperus scopulorum 'Table Top': Low-growing, flat-topped juniper with silvery-blue foliage, female plant. Juniperus scopulorum 'Snow Flurries': Narrow small tree, columnar to fastigiate with blue foliage showcasing creamy white spots. Juniperus scopulorum 'Pathfinder': Broader, pyramidical shape with blue-green foliage in flat spray branches. Juniperus scopulorum 'Gray Gleam': Slow-growing, dense, columnar tree with silver-gray foliage. Juniperus scopulorum 'Cologreen': Upright, narrow form with bright green foliage. Juniperus scopulorum 'Blue Heaven': Small, conical tree with light blue foliage. Pruning The skyrocket juniper is slow-growing and does not require pruning unless you wish to keep the trees short. If a shorter tree is desired, select one of the cultivars that do not grow so tall. The only pruning that is required is to remove any broken or storm-damaged limbs. Propagating Skyrocket Juniper Select young, healthy, vigorous, semi-hardwood cuttings in mid to late summer. Remove the lower leaves, then coat the cut end with a rooting hormone. Place the cutting in a mixture of perlite and coarse sand, and keep the cutting moist and warm until roots develop. After 8 to 10 weeks, you can transplant the cutting into a larger pot filled with a loam and sand mix. Allow the juniper to develop a hardy root system throughout the fall and winter. Protect the plant from excessive moisture and harsh winds. Transplant to a permanent location in the spring. How to Grow Skyrocket Juniper From Seed Growing a skyrocket juniper from seed requires time, patience, and multiple steps. If the seeds are collected late in the season and appear dry, soak the seeds for two days in room-temperature water. Prepare a mixture of equal parts horticultural sand and peat-free compost to fill each small 2-inch pot. Make a small hole in the mixture and add a seed, covering it lightly with the mixture. Place the pot in a shady location outdoors for at least six months and water when the mixture feels completely dry to the touch. Check regularly after a few months and when a seedling appears, move to a larger pot containing a similar mixture. Water the seedlings (but don't keep the soil soggy) and leave them in a cool, shady spot until multiple leaves appear. When the roots have filled the pots, transplant the young trees into one-gallon pots, taking care not to disturb the roots too much. When the roots have filled the larger pots, dig a hole in a sunny spot big enough to accommodate the root ball in well-draining soil. Carefully ease the plant out of the pot and place it carefully in the hole. Make sure the stem is at the same depth as it was in the pot, and firm backfill the hole with soil. Water deeply for several months until the roots are firmly established. Overwintering There are no special requirements for overwintering Skyrocket junipers unless a heavy ice storm is predicted. Use a protective cover to prevent branches from snapping under the weight of the ice. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Skyrocket junipers do not have any severe threats from pests or plant diseases. In rainy seasons, they may be susceptible to blights which causes the dieback of the stem tips. Phomopsis twig blight may occur as well as Cedar-apple rust and other rust diseases. In poorly drained soils, root rot can occur. Aphids, bagworms, scale, and spider mites are potential insect pests but seldom kill the tree. Common Problems With Skyrocket Juniper The most common complaint about this easy-to-care-for tree is its slow growth pattern. It can take up to 10 years for the tree to reach its mature height.

With bright green leaves and a refreshing flavor, parsley is a must-grow herb. If you want to keep plants productive and healthy, know how to harvest parsley and avoid overharvesting, which can cause plant stress and impaired growth. Whether you grow parsley from seeds or nursery starts, this guide will help you time your parsley harvest to perfection. Learn how to harvest parsley the right way to keep your plants healthy and your kitchen brimming with fresh herbs. When to Harvest Parsley Parsley is typically harvested from spring through fall either as a cut-and-come-again herb or in larger quantities for freezing or drying. However, if plants are grown indoors in pots, parsley can be harvested in winter, too. Fast-growing and adaptable, parsley can be kept in container gardens or larger herb beds and harvested just 70 days after sowing parsley seeds—nursery-started plants can be picked even earlier. Note that harvesting parsley too early can be detrimental to plant health, so it’s best to wait until plants are at least 6” tall and have well-formed leaves with at least 3 leaf segments before harvesting. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! How to Harvest Parsley the Right Way Harvest parsley in the morning. Parsley can technically be harvested at any time of the day, but if you want to get the best flavor out of your plants, pick parsley in the morning before the sun is high overhead. Parsley leaves contain the highest concentration of flavorful oils at this time of the day. Cut or pinch entire stems. Gather the parsley stems you’d like to harvest with one hand and cut or pinch the entire stems off just above the soil line with your fingers or a sharp pair of kitchen shears. Harvesting the entire stem will rejuvenate plants and encourage new growth. Work around the exterior of the plant. Parsley plants produce new leaves towards the center of the plant, so harvest the leaves around the exterior of the plant first. This will refresh the look of your parsley and prevent older leaves from going to waste. Don’t overharvest. Young parsley plants should be harvested sparingly by clipping off just a few stems at a time. Older plants, on the other hand, can be picked a bit more aggressively, but avoid harvesting more than 1/3 of your plant at once. Repeat. Parsley is a fast-growing herb that can be harvested again and again throughout the season as needed for recipes. Established plants can be harvested daily in small quantities, but it’s best to give plants a week or two to recover in between harvests if you gather a lot of parsley stems at once or harvest from young plants. Remember, frequent harvesting encourages parsley plants to produce even more leaves. How to Keep Parsley Growing for Years Parsley is a biennial herb that only grows for two years even with the best of care. As a result, many gardeners grow parsley as an annual and sow new parsley seeds every spring. But, parsley plants can be overwintered and harvested in the spring of their second year if desired. If you’d like to harvest second-year parsley plants, overwinter your parsley indoors or harvest your plants in early fall before the stems die back in cold weather. Outdoor parsley will lie dormant in gardens through winter and begin to grow new leaves in spring, while indoor plants can continue to grow through the winter months. Once parsley starts to produce new leaves in spring, harvest the stems regularly until the plant starts to bolt or flower. When flowering begins, it’s best to harvest the entire plant as bolting changes the flavor of parsley leaves. But if you want to gather parsley seeds for future planting, let your plants flower and gather the dried seeds when the parsley flowers fade.

Hardy geraniums are flowering perennials comprised of many cultivars, species, and hybrids within the Geranium genus, collectively called cranesbill geraniums. These are commonly-grown, low-growing, dense, carpet-like plants, not to be confused with zonal geraniums. These perennials have flower stalks that poke and weave through neighboring plants, floating on top of the plant. The small white, blue, pink, magenta, purple, lavender, and blue flowers are one inch wide and cupped-shaped, attracting butterflies and bees. Hardy geraniums grow best in well-drained, moderately rich soil. Most will do well in either full sun or partial shade, but they like to be fairly dry—they can become prone to mildew if kept damp. Note that geraniums are toxic to pets. Hardy Geranium Care Here are the main care requirements for growing a hardy geranium: Site them in a spot with full or partial sun; more sun equals more blooms. Give regular water, especially if in a full-sun location. Plant hardy geraniums so that the crown is at ground level or slightly above. Prune them after flowering to prompt repeated blooming into the fall. Prefers neutral to slightly acidic soil. Give well-balanced, time-released fertilizer if the soil is poor. Light Hardy geraniums accept a wide range of exposure conditions. For the best flowering and vigorous geranium plants, site them in full sun to partial shade. If geraniums are grown in hot, full sun, provide regular water. Some varieties of geraniums can tolerate full shade, but they likely won't blossom as fully as those with plenty of sun. Soil Geraniums are not particular about soil pH, but a neutral to slightly acidic soil is ideal. Most prefer medium-moisture, well-drained soil, though some species prefer relatively dry soil. Water Geraniums are a low-maintenance plant, so water them only when the soil becomes dry. If located in full sun, water the plant more frequently. Hardy geraniums can become prone to fungal disease if watered overhead. Temperature and Humidity Hardy geraniums grow best in daytime temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees and nighttime temperatures between 50 and 60 degrees. They tolerate a wide range of humidity levels, though mildew and rust can be non-life-threatening in very humid regions. Fertilizer Unless the soil is very poor, hardy geraniums generally do fine with no feeding other than a yearly application of compost. Poor soils might require a spring feeding with a time-release balanced fertilizer. Types of Hardy Geranium There are as many as 300 types of geraniums available to grow, some pure species, others nursery-created hybrids. The pure species are popular garden plants, but many named garden cultivars originate from hybrids achieved by crossing species within the genus. Geranium 'Johnson's Blue': This variety is thought to be a hybrid between G. himalayense and G. pretense. It is one of the most popular varieties, growing about 18 inches tall with sky-blue flowers. It is suitable for zones 4 to 8. G. sanguineum: This species, sometimes known as bloody cranesbill, is a relatively low-growing, clumping form that produces reddish-purple flowers from May to June, with lesser flowering into the late summer. It is grown in zones 3 to 9. Several good cultivars are available: 'Album,' with white flowers; 'Elke,' with soft pink flowers; and 'New Hampshire Purple,' with violet flowers with white eyes. G. himlayense: Known as lilac cranesbill, this species is hardy in zones 4 to 8 and produces violet, indigo, and blue flowers in early to mid-summer. It grows 9 to 18 inches in height. Geranium × oxonianum' Wargrave Pink': The most commonly grown geranium with salmon-pink flowers grows 18 to 24 inches tall in zones 3 to 8. Geranium' Rozanne: A violet-blue hybrid that flowers almost non-stop throughout summer. It grows 18 to 24 inches tall in zones 5 to 8. Geranium 'Ann Folkard': This is one of the earliest blooming geraniums with magenta flowers that repeat bloom throughout the season. This hybrid has a trailing habit and grows six to eight inches tall in zones 5 to 9. Geranium 'Double Jewel': Double-white petals feature a lilac center. It's short and sometimes grown containers because it grows 10 inches tall. It is hardy in zones 4 to 8. Geranium 'Southcombe Double': Double, pure pink blooms resemble fluffy asters. It grows ten inches tall in zones 4 to 8. Pruning Hardy geraniums require little care once established. They can get scraggly after blooming, and deadheading is difficult because of its many wispy stems. Shearing the plants back to basal growth will improve their look and encourage re-blooming. The plants fill out within weeks. The exception is G. macrorrhizum, which is easily deadheaded and needs no shearing. Propagating Hardy Geraniums Cranesbill geraniums can be divided and replanted through early summer. Nursery plants or divisions will quickly reach flowering maturity within their first year and slowly spread to fill available space. Plants started from seed can take several years before they flower. Most species of hardy geranium live longer if divided every three to five years, though you can divide more frequently to keep them from spreading or to obtain new plants. Once you see the center dying out, it is time to divide. Divide the geraniums from early spring to early summer, giving the plant time to establish roots before a frost. Here's how: Begin by digging up the plant and shaking the soil off the roots. Use a trowel or a knife to separate the root ball into pieces, ensuring each division has a root section and leaves. Replant each divided section at its original depth. Thoroughly water the newly planted divisions. How to Grow Hardy Geraniums From Seed Many hardy geraniums will self-seed readily, even taking root in sidewalk cracks. They do not spread uncontrollably and are rarely a problem. The volunteer seedlings can be easily dug up and transplanted elsewhere. You can also collect and plant seeds in the garden or seed-starter trays. Hybrids and many cultivars do not come true from collected seeds; these must be propagated by root division or other vegetative methods. Hardy geraniums are relatively slow-growing plants, and when started from seeds, it can take three to five years before they are mature enough to flower. Here's how to plant from seed: Get planting cells or 2-inch pots filled with moistened potting soil. Lightly cover one seed per pot or cell with soil. Cover the pot with clear plastic to keep the soil humid to promote germination. Keep the pot in a warm spot, at least 75 F, with bright, indirect light. Keep the soil moist. Germination can take place within three days or three weeks, depending on the conditions. Uncover the plastic and give half-strength fertilizer once a seedling emerges. Potting and Repotting Hardy Geraniums Unlike the popular zonal geraniums (Pelargonium), hardy geraniums are perennial plants rarely grown in containers. That said, there's no reason you can't do it. Use an oversized pot that will give the plant plenty of space to grow, and fill it with any standard commercial potting mix. The container can be made of any material but must have good drainage. Spread out the roots of the geranium as you plant it. Hardy geraniums don't like waterlogged soil, so weekly watering should suffice. They are relatively slow-growing plants, so repotting is required only when roots begin to poke out the drainage holes—this can take as long as three years. In colder climates, move the pots to a sheltered spot for the winter to protect the roots. These plants are not suitable for moving indoors to grow as houseplants. Overwintering Hardy geraniums generally require no winter protection against cold, but it is good practice to cut off the stems to just above ground level and discard the debris as winter approaches to eliminate fungal spores that can often cause powdery mildew. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Hardy geraniums are relatively trouble-free plants. Slugs might attack young geranium plants, while mildew and rust can infest foliage, especially in partial shade and humid climates. Shearing back and disposing of the infected leaves will help. To avoid mildew, give the plants plenty of space to improve air circulation and water through ground soaking rather than overhead spraying. Mildew spores are spread from water splashing against the soil. How to Get Hardy Geranium to Bloom When hardy geraniums fail to bloom as you expect, it's usually for one of these reasons: Too much moisture: Most hardy geraniums like relatively dry conditions; if they are overwatered, they will withhold blooms. Not enough sun: These plants typically want at least six hours of sun daily, and if they don't get it, flowering will be more sparse. The foliage itself, though, is often appealing enough to warrant growing the plant even in relatively shady conditions. Too much fertilizer: These plants thrive on little to no fertilizer, and if fed too often, the result can be excessive foliage at the expense of flowers. Fertilizers heavy in nitrogen are especially problematic. Replanted too deep: When replanting into a larger container or in a new site, do not replant them too deep; it can prevent them from flowering. Bloom Months Hardy geraniums typically bloom from May to September, generally from early summer to early fall. How Long Does Hardy Geranium Bloom? Hardy geraniums bloom for about three months. Often, there is one particularly heavy flush of flowers, with fewer blooms continuing in subsequent months. Shearing back plants after the main flush frequently stimulates more blooms to follow. What Do Hardy Geraniums Flowers Look and Smell Like? The flowers are five-petalled, usually pink, purple, blue, or white. Some have a mild, pleasant scent, if at all. Deadheading Hardy Geranium Flowers Most geraniums are wispy and difficult to deadhead. It's best to shear the plants to the base after flowering to promote more blooms to appear. The only hardy geranium worth deadheading is Geranium macrorrhizum, which is easy to deadhead. Common Problems with Hardy Geranium Hardy geraniums don't need much to grow well, but they do have some issues that come up occasionally. Overgrowth Hardy geraniums spread easily in the garden as a pleasing ground cover that weaves among other plants to block weeds and can grow somewhat invasively, spreading via underground rhizome rooting structures. Fortunately, hardy geranium is relatively easy to dig out and eliminate. Leggy Growth After flowering, hardy geraniums can become somewhat leggy and sparse. It's easy to shear or cut back the sparse stems, stimulating new growth.

Planting onion sets or slips in autumn has some distinct advantages and is much like planting garlicor shallots. But success isn't always guaranteed. Timing, along with your specific growing zone, and choosing the right onion variety all make a difference between big, flavorful bulbs and small bulbs or ones that fail to develop. This guide tells you when and how to plant autumn onions for a bountiful harvest the following spring and summer. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Why Plant Onions in Fall? Onions establish and develop green tops and roots in cooler weather which translates to bigger and more flavorful bulbs. In northern zones, spring planted onions need to get into the ground early which can be challenging unless you have already prepared a raised bed or garden area. Setting them out in autumn gives plants a head start, allowing them to establish before winter frost and freezing. After several frosts, plants go dormant. When temperatures start to rise in spring and day hours lengthen, your onions are ready to direct energy into growing bulbs. Keeping autumn-planted onions free of weeds is easier as many garden weeds have died back. How to Plant Onions in Fall Both sets and slips (young plants) need four to six weeks to establish tops and roots before frost sets in. Find the first frost date in your zone and back time to find out the best day/s for planting. Start by digging a trench 2 to 3 inches deep and 2 inches wide. Fill the bottom of the trench with an inch or two of well-aged compost. Place the sets or slips about 1/2 inch into the compost layer allowing 4 to 6 inches in between each onion. Place sets with the pointed end facing up. Fill the rest of the trench with soil, covering the onion with about 1/2 inch of soil. If you start with slips, leave any green tops above the soil surface. Water and mulch with a thin layer of straw or dried leaves. Once new green growth appears, add more mulch and continue to water every few days. You'll need a mulch layer of at least 6 inches to protect roots when ground freezes. Best Onions for Fall Planting Onion sets are widely available in spring, sold as yellow, white, or red, and often not identified by variety. Try searching online or in garden catalogs to find sets or slips for autumn planting. Look for varieties most successful in your growing zone. Onions are categorized as short-day, intermediate, or long-day. Keep in mind that sets need 80 days and slips need up to 110 days to mature from the time they're planted. Here are a few onion varieties to consider for autumn planting. 'Electric': Winter hardy with shiny red skin and pink-tinged flesh. Mild, sweet flavor. 'Radar': Yellow, globe-shaped Japanese variety. Mild flavor and good bolt resistance. 'Snowball': A short-day variety with medium-sized, slightly flattened bulbs. A mild but tangy onion best for eating fresh. 'Granex': Large, globe-shaped bulbs are mild and sweet. A short-day variety and a popular choice for southern gardens. 'Walla Walla': Extra large bulbs mature in 90 days. This long day type is comparable to Vidalia onion in flavor. Spring and Summer Harvesting Once soil warms in spring and day time hours increase, autumn planted onions start forming bulbs. Short day onions are the quickest to bulb up and ready to harvest in as few as 75 days in late April and early May. Intermediate and long day types will be ready to harvest from early to mid summer. The sooner daylight hours reach the time needed for bulbing, the sooner you'll be able to harvest good size onions. When bulbs are mature, they sit partially above soil level and the green tops turn yellow and flop over. Mature bulbs can remain in the ground for one or two weeks but if left too long they become vulnerable to thrips and can soften and rot.