Dozens of pepper varieties can be grown in the home garden. Once you find your favorites, you may never have to purchase seeds again—turns out, you can save pepper seeds easily to plant next year. Follow our simple steps on how to save pepper seeds for a huge haul of future pepper plants. Which Peppers Can You Save Seeds From? Saving pepper seeds requires a bit of planning to get the best and most viable seeds for next season's planting. If you are growing hybrid peppers (F1 is printed after the name on the seed packet), the seeds will not produce the same pepper next year. When saving pepper seeds, open-pollinated, will produce new plants of the same variety. When Should You Collect Pepper Seeds? Seeds should only be collected from mature peppers. Unripe fruit does not produce viable seeds. The peppers should be mature but not overly ripe, diseased, or beginning to mold. Seeds can be collected from freshly picked peppers or from peppers that have been allowed to dry for several months off the vine. How to Remove Seeds from Peppers To remove the seeds, cut open the pepper and gently rub or shake the seeds from the center of the fruit. You can use a fine mesh or paper towel to catch the seeds. How to Dry Pepper Seeds Dried Peppers If the seeds have been removed from peppers that have been allowed to dry off the vine for three to four months, they may not require any additional drying. If they feel slightly damp, spread the seeds on a baking sheet and dry in the oven at 100 degrees F. for two hours. Fresh Peppers If you have saved seeds from a fresh pepper, the flesh should be rinsed away from the seeds. You can do this by placing the seeds in a bowl of cool water and gently swishing them around with your hands. The loose pepper flesh and immature seeds will float the top and can be skimmed off. You can also place the seeds in a fine mesh colander and rinse them under water. After rinsing, allow the seeds to dry on a paper towel or a mesh screen in a cool location until the seeds are dry enough to break when pressed with a fingernail. To speed drying, spread the seeds on a clean baking tray and dry at 100 degrees F. for about six hours. Where to Store Pepper Seeds When the seeds are dry, they can be stored in small glass jars, paper bags, or any moisture-proof container. Always label the container with the date and the type of pepper. Store seeds in a cool, dark, dry location or a freezer. If they are stored in an area that is too warm or moist, the seeds may begin to germinate or mold and become no longer viable. How to Know If Pepper Seeds Are Still Good Pepper seeds will produce the best results if planted the next year but can be viable for up to five years. You can do one of these tests to predict if the seeds are still good. Germination test: Place 10 to 15 seeds with plenty of space between each seed on several layers of damp paper towels. Fold the towels and place them in a sealable plastic bag. Put the bag in a warm spot for two weeks. Remove the towels from the bag and count how many seeds have sprouted to get a percentage of viable seeds for planting. Floater test: Place the seeds in a bowl of water and remove any that float. Floating seeds are less viable than the dense seeds that have developed a seed embryo. Plant immediately or allow to dry thoroughly if storing longer.

If you love a low-acid, sweet tomato, then Sungold is a perfect choice. A golden yellow cherry tomato, Sungold, Lycopersicon esculentum 'Sungold', is a hybrid indeterminate tomato that matures in 55 to 65 days and produces fruit in clusters throughout the growing season. You'll need stakes or cages because the vines can grow up to 10 feet.1 While the fruit is delicious, the vines and leaves are toxic to humans2 and pets3 if consumed. How to Plant Sungold Tomatoes When to Plant Sungold tomatoes should be planted in the spring after all threat of frost has passed. If you are starting plants from seed, they should be started indoors about four weeks before your area's last projected frost date and then planted outside when seedlings are at least 6-inches tall. Selecting a Planting Site Sungold tomatoes require a site with full sun and loamy, nutrient-rich soil with good drainage. If planting in a garden, practice crop rotation to prevent disease spread and nutrient depletion of the soil from last year's crops. Sungold tomatoes also thrive in containers placed in a sunny spot. Spacing, Depth, and Support Sungold tomatoes produce long vines and clusters of fruit. To control them and keep the fruit off the ground. they need a support structure for the vines, such as a tomato cage. Plants should be spaced at least four feet apart in the garden to ensure good air circulation and room for the support structure. Seedlings should be planted in a hole about twice the size of their root ball and placed into the ground at the same level as they grew in their container. If the seedling was grown in a peat pot, be sure the entire pot is buried below the soil surface because an exposed peat pot wicks moisture from the soil. Sungold Tomato Plant Care Light Sungold tomatoes need full sun for six to eight hours per day. Less light results in slower growth and less fruit. Soil Slightly acidic, 6.0-6.8 pH, soil in the garden helps Sungold tomatoes thrive and bear lots of fruit. The soil should be well-drained, loamy, and nutrient-rich. A soil test is the best way to determine the nutrient level in your soil and its pH. If growing Sungold tomatoes in containers, use organic potting soil not soil dug directly from the garden. It is too heavy for container grown plants. Water All tomatoes must be watered deeply and regularly, especially those planted in containers. Provide 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water per week. Poke your finger into the soil and if it is dry at 2 inches deep, provide water. The soil should not be allowed to dry out because keeping the soil evenly moist helps prevent blossom end rot. Water at the root level to prevent the spread of tomato diseases. Avoid overwatering which can lead to root rot and splitting tomatoes. Add mulch once plants are established to help retain moisture. Temperature and Humidity For optimum growth, do not plant Sungold tomatoes until soil temperature has reached at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Harden off seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions before planting them in the garden. Humidity isn't an issue for tomatoes unless it is excessive. Too much humid weather causes wet foliage for extended periods and creates a climate for fungal diseases. Fertilizer Unless a soil test has other recommendations, prepare garden soil by working in 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet of a complete fertilizer (10-10-10 NPK). A high-nitrogen fertilizer is not recommended; it can result in luxuriant foliage but delayed flowering and fruiting. Give new plants a head start by using a diluted liquid starter fertilizer high in phosphorus for strong root development. For container-grown Sungolds, fertilize regularly, at least once a month. Use a water-soluble application at half-strength to provide a constant source of nutrients. Pollination Sungold tomatoes self-pollinate and attract bees and other pollinators to the garden. Types of Sungold Tomatoes A similar tomato is SunSugar. The fruits are golden yellow, sweeter, and with a slightly thicker skin t less prone to cracking. Harvesting Sungold Tomatoes Although Sungold tomatoes grow in clusters of 10 to 20 fruits, it is best to harvest each cherry tomato separately. If picked while they are bright yellow, the fruit will be firm and tart. If allowed to ripen to a deep golden color, they will be soft, sweet, and easy to remove from the vine. Sungolds never turn red, no matter how long they stay on the vine. If cared for correctly, the plant will continue to produce fruit until the first frost in the fall. How to Grow Sungold Tomatoes in Pots If you don't have space for a garden, Sungold tomatoes can be easily grown in pots. Choose a large pot, around 5-gallons, with good drainage holes. Add a treellis or tomato cage while the seedlings are young to provide support for the vines. Use good potting soil and water regularly (one to two gallons of water per day) because the container will dry out quickly. Other than transferring seedlings to the garden or a large container, Sungold tomatoes should not be repotted once they are established. Pruning Sungold Tomatoes Regular pruning helps Sungold tomatoes produce more fruit than foliage. Use garden snips to remove suckers, or small stems, growing from the main stem next to a leaf cluster. These suckers tend to produce foliage but not fruit. Without them, the plant can focus energy on the fruit-bearing stems. Prune any stems touching the ground to prevent disease. Propagating Sungold Tomatoes You can clone Sungold tomatoes from cuttings. You need a small pot with soilless potting mix and good drainage and sterile pruners. Once the parent plant is healthy and actively growing follow these steps: Find a 6- to 8-inch sucker coming off the main stem with no buds or flowers on it and remove it with the pruner. Strip the leaves on the lower half of the cutting. Plant the cutting in a small container with moistened soilless potting mix. Place the container in bright, indirect sunlight. Keep the growing medium moist but not soggy. Roots should develop in a week or two. If you feel resistance when you gently tug on the cutting, you’ll know it has roots. It can then be transplanted into the garden. How to Grow Sungold Tomatoes from Seed About six weeks before the last predicted frost, start your Sungold tomato seeds indoors. You need seed starting trays and mix, heating mat, plastic dome or covering, and small pots with drainage holes. Fill trays with seed starting medium and moisten the medium until it is damp but not soaked. With a pointed stick, make a hole about 1/8th of an inch deep and place one seed in each one of the seed tray's cells. Place the tray on top of the heating mat in front of a sunny window and cover the tray. Check daily to ensure the soil remains moist, misting with a spray bottle as needed. The seeds should germinate in 5 to 10 days. Keep covered until the plants touch the cover, at which point remove the cover. When plants are around 5 to 6 inches tall, transplant them into individual pots and continue to water until transplanted. When outdoor temperatures reach a steady 50° Fahrenheit at night, you can take the plants outdoors to allow them to harden up before planting. After 10 days, you can transplant the Sungold tomato plants into the garden. Overwintering Sungold tomatoes are annuals that complete their life cycle in one growing season and do not overwinter. Harvest the last tomatoes before the first frost and discard vines. Common Pest and Plant Diseases Sungold tomatoes are resistant to Verticillium wilt (V), fusarium (F), and tobacco mosaic virus (TMV). However, they can be affected and are subject to pests like tomato hornworms. Help prevent problems by providing ample growing space, using a support structure to keep them off the ground, and watering at the roots only. Aphids are a common problem with tomatoes. While the plants can tolerate a number of them without loss, infestations can pose a larger problem. Aphids are tiny bugs that come in colors red, green, white, or black. Signs of an aphid infestation include curled and yellow leaves as well as reduced tomato production. You can control aphids with natural methods such as spraying with water and companion planting (marigolds, onion, and garlic as good choices). If these don't work, you can also opt to use insecticidal sprays.

There are around 300 species of hibiscus plants, but cranberry hibiscus is one of the showiest with vibrant pink and red flowers and palmate leaves in a dramatically dark burgundy hue. A prime choice for sunny flower beds and container gardens, cranberry hibiscus is only winter hardy in zones 8 through 11, but it can be grown as an annual or overwintered indoors in cooler locations. Whether growing cranberry hibiscus for its edible leaves and flowers or for ornamental use, this guide will teach you how to plant, grow, and tend this hardy hibiscus through the changing seasons. When to Plant Cranberry hibiscus plants are sensitive to frost, so they should only be planted outdoors in frost-free weather. In most areas, spring is the best time for planting hibiscus, although cranberry hibiscus can also be planted in summer (as long as the plants are watered often). To plant cranberry hibiscus: Dig a hole slightly larger than your hibiscus root ball and amend the soil with compost. Situate the plant in the hole at the same level that it was growing in its nursery pot, backfill the hole, firm the soil around the plant’s base, and apply a 2 to 3-inch layer of mulch. Water your plant well to help it acclimate, and begin fertilizing about 2 to 3 weeks after planting. Cranberry Hibiscus Care Tips If you love lots of garden color, cranberry hibiscus plants are hard to beat. These multi-stemmed shrubs can be used as backdrop plants to highlight the colors and shapes of other heat-loving ornamentals, like acanthus, caladium, and pineapple sage, but they can also be planted on their own. Cranberry hibiscus can also thrive in a roomy planter, which is a great option if you want to use these plants to highlight garden walkways or draw attention to a sunny front porch. Cranberry hibiscus flowers are best in full-sun locations. Most soil types are suitable for hibiscus, as long as the soil is well-draining and the plants are watered often. Pruning cranberry hibiscus to a leaf node can correct leggy stems and make plants bushier. Growers in cold climates can grow these plants as annuals, overwinter them in greenhouses, or propagate new plants from stem cuttings and grow the cuttings as houseplants through winter. Light Although cranberry hibiscus can be grown in partial shade, full sun is recommended if you want your plants to have the best color and to bloom well. Low-light gardens can cause cranberry hibiscus stems to become leggy and may make their deep burgundy leaves shift into dull shades of brown. That said, growers in hot climates may want to shelter their hibiscus plants with shade cloth during extreme heat to avoid issues with sunscald. Soil Most soil types are appropriate for hibiscus plants, although rich and well-draining soils are ideal. To give your plants an advantage, mix some compost or rotted manure into your planting holes before planting hibiscus. Water Like other hibiscus plants, cranberry hibiscus loves water. Water regularly with at least 1 inch of water per week. However, container plants may need water twice a day in hot weather. Fertilizer To keep cranberry hibiscus plants in bloom, fertilize your hibiscus every 4 to 6 weeks from spring through early August. Liquid organic fertilizers are usually the best choice for these plants. Pruning Cranberry hibiscus grows quickly and produces long stems that can become leggy and unwieldy if plants aren’t pruned regularly. To encourage your plants to develop a sturdier and bushier growth habit, clip wayward stems back to a leaf node, reshaping as you go, and consider installing stakes or supports if your plants seem to need them. Commons Problems These plants are generally pest and disease-resistant. However, even these hardy hibiscus plants can sometimes develop issues: Broken stems can occur when hibiscus plants are grown in windy areas. Planting hibiscus in a protected spot and installing plant supports can help you avoid this issue. However, if your hibiscus stems break, make a clean cut at a leaf node and throw the broken stem in your compost pile. Root rot develops when hibiscus plants are grown in overly saturated soil. Planting hibiscus in well-draining gardens can prevent this issue, as long as you don’t overwater! Pests, like mealybugs, Japanese beetles, and thrips can sometimes plague hibiscus plants. Handpicking works well for larger insects, while organic soap sprays can tackle most smaller pests with ease. How to Propagate Cranberry Hibiscus Cranberry hibiscus plants can be propagated either from seeds or stem cuttings, although propagation via stem cuttings is easier and much faster. Cut 12-inch long stem cuttings from healthy hibiscus plants using sharp, sterilized pruners. Remove the lower leaves and dip the cut stem end in rooting compound. Plant the cut stem end a few inches deep in a pot filled with damp potting mix. Cover the pot and cutting with a clear plastic bag to boost humidity and then place the pot on a heating mat to help roots develop faster. Move the pot under a grow light or into a window that receives bright, indirect light and water regularly until the plant roots. Rooted cuttings can be kept indoors as houseplants through winter, but plants can also be transitioned directly out into the garden after a period of hardening off. Types to Grow Careful plant breeding has produced a number of colorful and attractive cranberry hibiscus cultivars for container-growing or larger gardens. While you can find other types of cranberry hibiscus on the market, these varieties are always popular! ‘Panama Red’: Although ‘Panama Red’ is an infrequent bloomer, it still steals the show with its heat tolerance and eye-catching, coppery-red leaves. ‘Haight Ashbury’: A top choice for garden borders and containers, ‘Haight Ashbury’ maxes out at around 5 feet tall and produces deep red blooms towards the end of summer. ‘Jungle Red’: Growing between 4 and 6 feet tall, ‘Jungle Red’ is a versatile plant that blooms from late summer into winter in mild climates. Uses When in bloom, hibiscus flowers are magnets for all sorts of pollinators, including hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies. On top of that, cranberry hibiscus leaves and flowers are edible and they can be used to add color and a tangy taste to hot and cold teas, stir-fries, salads, sauces, and more. Blooming The short days and long nights at the end of summer and into fall trigger cranberry hibiscus plants to produce their large, pink, and red flowers. Ensuring that your plants receive enough light and fertilizer can increase the chances of flowering.

The eastern red cedar is a slow-growing conifer native to eastern North America that is extremely adaptable to various soils and growing conditions. The species' name is a misnomer, with it being a juniper. The adaptable species can grow almost anywhere, giving it a variety of garden uses. It has allowed horticulturalists to develop specific cultivars to suit landscape needs for almost any situation. Overall the wild type of the eastern red cedar is an attractive needled evergreen with excellent ornamental value due to its winter interest that comes from its startling blue berry-like fruit and gorgeous bark. For those looking to add ecological value, these same cones provide a favorite food source to native birds and wildlife while its lush condensed foliage makes for excellent habitat. An eastern red cedar or one of its many cultivars may be an excellent choice if you want a conifer to add to your landscape. Although not invasive, these are colonizing trees, so if you plant one, expect many more to pop up in the surrounding area. Attributes of the Eastern Red Cedar Pyramidal Salt tolerant Cultivars available Transplants well Good for bonsai Wildlife value Deer tolerant Black walnut resistant Air pollution resistant Caring for an Eastern Red Cedar Planting an eastern red cedar can be a big decision that takes a bit of thought. It can be a large tree that grows slowly, meaning it will be around for a while. Luckily while it can be a huge investment space-wise, its relative ease of care means you will not need to sink much time into the care of the tree once it becomes established in the landscape. Fortunately, being a pioneer species (i.e., a hardy species that is the first to colonize barren environments), it does not take much to establish itself in a given location. Care for the species is concerned mostly with protecting other trees in the area from pathogens that the eastern red cedar carries and ensuring that the species' potential for weediness does not allow it to overtake areas where seedlings are not wanted. Light A young eastern red cedar will do well growing in full sun to part shade, but as it matures, it will do best in full sun areas. Trees grown in less than the full sun that must compete for sunlight will settle into a low-growing shrub-like habit and exhibit a form expressed by more horizontal than vertical growth. If two trees compete, consider removing the smaller of the two to allow the more dominant one to benefit from the full sun as it establishes itself. Soil Of least concern to an eastern red cedar's overall vigor and health is the soil conditions it is planted in. The species does well in poor soils that others would not, which makes it able to thrive in the most intolerable conditions. When planted in good conditions, it prefers it will perform exceedingly well, establish itself quickly, and show a marked increase in growth rate. The tree's most preferred conditions would be rich loamy, consistently moist, and well-draining soil. Extremely adaptable, the only condition the eastern red cedar cannot tolerate is standing water. Save constantly soaked roots; this species can deal with almost any soil. Water Initially, as it is establishing itself, your eastern red cedar will demand a good amount of water until these needs taper off and the tree develops into a tree that can hold its own against some pretty harsh drought conditions. Until it is established, though, right after planting, it is necessary to give an eastern red cedar plenty of supplemental irrigation for the first two growing seasons. Judging the water needs by the soil dampness is the best bet for the species as the tree constantly demands damp soil without allowing standing water to collect. A good way to judge is to press your finger into the soil to a depth of two inches and feel for the soil's moisture. It is time to water your young tree if the soil is dry. Continue doing this throughout the first two growing seasons, checking a few times a week, especially in the summer, more if there are drought conditions. By the third year, you should be able to start tapering off. Temperature and Humidity The range of the eastern red cedar is immense, stretching from eastern coastal Canada south to the Gulf Coast of the United States. There are vast temperature differences in this large swatch of territory, but the eastern red cedar adapts to them all. The commonality is that the temperatures in its growing range never reach extremes. To keep your eastern red cedar healthy and happy, mimic its natural habitat and grow it in moderate temperatures in areas that do not push extreme limits. Keeping it in its happy zones of USDA 2-9 will ensure it thrives. Fertilizer Generally, eastern red cedars do not require any supplemental fertilizer. The species thrives in poor soil as a pioneer species. Adding supplemental fertilizer is unnecessary, especially for wild-type trees. Dwarf varieties or varieties with unique forms, such as abundant fruit-bearing cultivars, may require specific fertilizing. It is best to consult any documentation of the particular cultivar for its exact needs. Types of Eastern Red Cedar Juniperus virginiana has many cultivars with various traits to suit your functional and aesthetic needs. With nearly 40 cultivars available ranging from dwarf to weeping to silver in color and offering excellent disease resistance, nothing should stand in your way from planting this species in your landscape. Juniperus virginiana ‘Burkii’: This male cultivar has a pyramidal shape ranging in height from 10 feet to 15 feet with high resistance to cedar apple rust. Juniperus virginiana ‘Pendula’: This female cultivar has a drooping habit and abundant fruit. Juniperus virginiana ‘Grey Owl’: The dwarf cultivar with an extremely slow growth rate matures around 6 feet wide and 3 feet tall. Juniperus virginiana ‘Emerald Sentinel’: This cultivar is superbly vigorous and hardy, thriving in extreme conditions and the harshest conditions while still looking good. Common Pests & Plant Diseases The eastern red cedar is luckily free from serious disease and pest issues. The only large concern that many will find to be an issue is that the species acts as an alternate host for a fungal disease, cedar apple rust. While this disease does little harm to the eastern red cedar itself, it can cause serious issues to trees in the Malus family, often causing leaf and fruit damage. In early spring, fungal galls will emerge on the juniper tree that must be treated with a copper fungicide to prevent the spread of the disease to any susceptible trees nearby. Ultimately to be safe, all trees in the Malus family should be kept 500 to 1000 feet from any possible host.