If you love a low-acid, sweet tomato, then Sungold is a perfect choice. A golden yellow cherry tomato, Sungold, Lycopersicon esculentum 'Sungold', is a hybrid indeterminate tomato that matures in 55 to 65 days and produces fruit in clusters throughout the growing season. You'll need stakes or cages because the vines can grow up to 10 feet.1 While the fruit is delicious, the vines and leaves are toxic to humans2 and pets3 if consumed. How to Plant Sungold Tomatoes When to Plant Sungold tomatoes should be planted in the spring after all threat of frost has passed. If you are starting plants from seed, they should be started indoors about four weeks before your area's last projected frost date and then planted outside when seedlings are at least 6-inches tall. Selecting a Planting Site Sungold tomatoes require a site with full sun and loamy, nutrient-rich soil with good drainage. If planting in a garden, practice crop rotation to prevent disease spread and nutrient depletion of the soil from last year's crops. Sungold tomatoes also thrive in containers placed in a sunny spot. Spacing, Depth, and Support Sungold tomatoes produce long vines and clusters of fruit. To control them and keep the fruit off the ground. they need a support structure for the vines, such as a tomato cage. Plants should be spaced at least four feet apart in the garden to ensure good air circulation and room for the support structure. Seedlings should be planted in a hole about twice the size of their root ball and placed into the ground at the same level as they grew in their container. If the seedling was grown in a peat pot, be sure the entire pot is buried below the soil surface because an exposed peat pot wicks moisture from the soil. Sungold Tomato Plant Care Light Sungold tomatoes need full sun for six to eight hours per day. Less light results in slower growth and less fruit. Soil Slightly acidic, 6.0-6.8 pH, soil in the garden helps Sungold tomatoes thrive and bear lots of fruit. The soil should be well-drained, loamy, and nutrient-rich. A soil test is the best way to determine the nutrient level in your soil and its pH. If growing Sungold tomatoes in containers, use organic potting soil not soil dug directly from the garden. It is too heavy for container grown plants. Water All tomatoes must be watered deeply and regularly, especially those planted in containers. Provide 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water per week. Poke your finger into the soil and if it is dry at 2 inches deep, provide water. The soil should not be allowed to dry out because keeping the soil evenly moist helps prevent blossom end rot. Water at the root level to prevent the spread of tomato diseases. Avoid overwatering which can lead to root rot and splitting tomatoes. Add mulch once plants are established to help retain moisture. Temperature and Humidity For optimum growth, do not plant Sungold tomatoes until soil temperature has reached at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Harden off seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions before planting them in the garden. Humidity isn't an issue for tomatoes unless it is excessive. Too much humid weather causes wet foliage for extended periods and creates a climate for fungal diseases. Fertilizer Unless a soil test has other recommendations, prepare garden soil by working in 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet of a complete fertilizer (10-10-10 NPK). A high-nitrogen fertilizer is not recommended; it can result in luxuriant foliage but delayed flowering and fruiting. Give new plants a head start by using a diluted liquid starter fertilizer high in phosphorus for strong root development. For container-grown Sungolds, fertilize regularly, at least once a month. Use a water-soluble application at half-strength to provide a constant source of nutrients. Pollination Sungold tomatoes self-pollinate and attract bees and other pollinators to the garden. Types of Sungold Tomatoes A similar tomato is SunSugar. The fruits are golden yellow, sweeter, and with a slightly thicker skin t less prone to cracking. Harvesting Sungold Tomatoes Although Sungold tomatoes grow in clusters of 10 to 20 fruits, it is best to harvest each cherry tomato separately. If picked while they are bright yellow, the fruit will be firm and tart. If allowed to ripen to a deep golden color, they will be soft, sweet, and easy to remove from the vine. Sungolds never turn red, no matter how long they stay on the vine. If cared for correctly, the plant will continue to produce fruit until the first frost in the fall. How to Grow Sungold Tomatoes in Pots If you don't have space for a garden, Sungold tomatoes can be easily grown in pots. Choose a large pot, around 5-gallons, with good drainage holes. Add a treellis or tomato cage while the seedlings are young to provide support for the vines. Use good potting soil and water regularly (one to two gallons of water per day) because the container will dry out quickly. Other than transferring seedlings to the garden or a large container, Sungold tomatoes should not be repotted once they are established. Pruning Sungold Tomatoes Regular pruning helps Sungold tomatoes produce more fruit than foliage. Use garden snips to remove suckers, or small stems, growing from the main stem next to a leaf cluster. These suckers tend to produce foliage but not fruit. Without them, the plant can focus energy on the fruit-bearing stems. Prune any stems touching the ground to prevent disease. Propagating Sungold Tomatoes You can clone Sungold tomatoes from cuttings. You need a small pot with soilless potting mix and good drainage and sterile pruners. Once the parent plant is healthy and actively growing follow these steps: Find a 6- to 8-inch sucker coming off the main stem with no buds or flowers on it and remove it with the pruner. Strip the leaves on the lower half of the cutting. Plant the cutting in a small container with moistened soilless potting mix. Place the container in bright, indirect sunlight. Keep the growing medium moist but not soggy. Roots should develop in a week or two. If you feel resistance when you gently tug on the cutting, you’ll know it has roots. It can then be transplanted into the garden. How to Grow Sungold Tomatoes from Seed About six weeks before the last predicted frost, start your Sungold tomato seeds indoors. You need seed starting trays and mix, heating mat, plastic dome or covering, and small pots with drainage holes. Fill trays with seed starting medium and moisten the medium until it is damp but not soaked. With a pointed stick, make a hole about 1/8th of an inch deep and place one seed in each one of the seed tray's cells. Place the tray on top of the heating mat in front of a sunny window and cover the tray. Check daily to ensure the soil remains moist, misting with a spray bottle as needed. The seeds should germinate in 5 to 10 days. Keep covered until the plants touch the cover, at which point remove the cover. When plants are around 5 to 6 inches tall, transplant them into individual pots and continue to water until transplanted. When outdoor temperatures reach a steady 50° Fahrenheit at night, you can take the plants outdoors to allow them to harden up before planting. After 10 days, you can transplant the Sungold tomato plants into the garden. Overwintering Sungold tomatoes are annuals that complete their life cycle in one growing season and do not overwinter. Harvest the last tomatoes before the first frost and discard vines. Common Pest and Plant Diseases Sungold tomatoes are resistant to Verticillium wilt (V), fusarium (F), and tobacco mosaic virus (TMV). However, they can be affected and are subject to pests like tomato hornworms. Help prevent problems by providing ample growing space, using a support structure to keep them off the ground, and watering at the roots only. Aphids are a common problem with tomatoes. While the plants can tolerate a number of them without loss, infestations can pose a larger problem. Aphids are tiny bugs that come in colors red, green, white, or black. Signs of an aphid infestation include curled and yellow leaves as well as reduced tomato production. You can control aphids with natural methods such as spraying with water and companion planting (marigolds, onion, and garlic as good choices). If these don't work, you can also opt to use insecticidal sprays.

Avocado trees (Persea americana) are a great plant to grow if you live in the southern tip of the United States or father south. These plants are best grown outdoors as they can reach up to 60 feet in height. These evergreen fruit trees are best known for their delicious fruit, the avocado. Though the fruit may be the main draw for many growers, avocado trees are also quite beautiful because of their thick, bright green foliage and add ornamental value to any outdoor space. However, if it’s the fruit you’re after, these plants need warmth and space for the best results. How to Plant an Avocado Tree It is best to plant avocado trees outdoors in the spring, allowing ample time to become established before winter temperatures arrive. Plant your avocado tree in a location with plenty of sunlight and well-draining soil. If soil conditions are less than ideal, amend the soil with sand or another well-draining substrate before planting. The trees are vulnerable to high winds, so immature trees may benefit from support. Try choosing a planting location that offers wind protection to help keep your tree upright and healthy. All avocado trees should be planted at least 10 feet away from structures. The avocado tree's root system is sensitive, so try not to disturb the roots during planting. Dig a hole that is wider than the root structure and the same height as the root ball. Tip Avocado trees grown from seed (avocado pits) will not produce the same fruit as the mother. Purchasing a young tree and growing it will yield fruit easier and faster. Avocado Tree Care Light Like most tropical plants, the avocado tree thrives on a lot of sunshine. Plant this tree in a location where it can receive at least eight hours of sunlight every day. These trees can tolerate partial shade, but grow best and produce more fruits when kept in full sun. Soil Avocado trees prefer rich, loamy, and well-draining soil. A soil pH that is acidic to neutral, between 5 and 7, is ideal. These trees are sensitive to alkaline soil. Adding a layer of mulch around the tree can help the soil retain the right amount of moisture and will offer protection to the avocado tree's shallow root system. Don't mulch any closer than six inches from the trunk. Water Avocado trees benefit from infrequent, deep watering. This encourages deeper, stronger root growth. Wait until the soil begins to dry out, then water deeply. During the summer months, the avocado tree will require more frequent watering. Young trees also require more frequent watering as they become established. Mature trees should receive around two inches of water per week. Temperature and Humidity These famous fruit trees can only be grown outdoors in USDA hardiness zones 9 through 11, limiting an avocado tree to climates that are tropical and subtropical, unless grown indoors. They are frost-sensitive and grow best in temperatures between 50-85ºF. Though prolonged temperatures 30ºF or below will be too cold for avocado trees, they should be able to withstand an occasional, very brief freeze. Fertilizer You should fertilize an avocado tree starting in the late winter to early spring and feed until the fall, depending on the specific instructions included with your chosen fertilizer. Fertilizers specifically designed for avocado or citrus trees work best. Pollination For the best pollination, it is ideal to have two avocado trees, as flowers have male and female parts but they open at separate times, making self-pollination is unlikely. Avocado trees are considered either type A or type B, and each type opens its flowers parts at different times of day. These different times make cross-pollination between the two types possible. When choosing which trees to plant, be sure you have both type A and type B for best results. How to Grow Avocado Trees From Seed Starting an avocado tree from seed is a fun, simple project. However, it is important to keep in mind that seeds will not produce trees identical to the parent tree. To do this, you will need an avocado seed, a jar of water, toothpicks, a sharp knife, a small pot, and well-draining potting soil. Using a sharp knife, poke three or four holes around the circumference of the avocado seed. Poke the toothpicks into the holes, which will create the support needed to suspend the seed in water. Submerge the thick, or bottom end, of the seed into the water. Around one-third of the seed should be in the water. Place the seed in a sunny location and change the water daily. After a few weeks, roots should form and leaves should appear at the top of the seed. Once this occurs, gently plant the seed in well-draining soil. Types of Avocado Trees All avocado trees stem from three main varieties: Mexican, West Indian, and Guatemalan. Within these categories, there are several avocado varieties available. Hass: One of the most popular avocado varieties, the Hass avocado is often found in grocery stores. This is a type A tree that produces thick, bumpy-skinned, rich, and creamy fruits. It is more sensitive to heat than other varieties. Hass avocado trees are known to produce a reasonably sized yield when grown on their own. Fuerte: Also a widely known avocado type, the Fuerte avocado is a type B tree often grown with Hass avocados. These trees produce large, oval-shaped fruits with relatively smooth, thin skin. These trees are also more sensitive to heat, making them a good fit for the northern borders of the avocado's growing zones. Pinkerton: This type A, Guatemalan tree is popular for its smaller size and large fruit yield. It produces oblong fruits with flesh similar to the Hass avocado—rich and creamy. These trees require a type B avocado tree to produce a significant fruit yield. Harvesting Avocados On a healthy outdoor avocado tree, you could harvest upwards of 200 avocados per season. For nursery-bought trees, you can expect to see fruit in three to four years. For avocados started from seed, it may take five to 13 years before fruits appear. When fruits appear, wait until the avocado grows to its mature size. The fruits do not ripen on the tree, so avocados are picked as soon as they are full size. Bring the avocados indoors and let them rest on a counter until ripe. How to Grow Avocado Trees in Pots Avocados can be grown in pots outdoors, though it will stifle their growth. (They can also be grown indoors in pots.) This is ideal for small yards or gardens near the northern edge of the avocado’s growing zones, as potted trees can be moved to a protected area when cold weather arrives. Young trees or dwarf varieties are ideal for growing in pots as these will stay small for some time. Planting Tip When choosing a container, be sure it drains well and has unobstructed drainage holes, ideally a terracotta pot since it's more breathable. Pruning If avocado trees are grown from seed, start pruning when the seedling is only six inches tall, snipping off the top pair of the leaves. When it reaches a foot in height, trim it back six inches. After this, prune the tree yearly. Mature trees require occasional pruning. Light pruning can be done any time of year, though heavy pruning should be done in the early spring. Prune thick areas to ensure adequate light and airflow. Cut back any dead wood and trim away V-shaped branches. Don't take off more than one-third of the length of each branch. Pruning Tip Looking for the best pruners for your avocado trees? We tested 8 top-rated pruners in our Lab to make sure your trees stay happy and healthy. Propagating Avocado Trees Propagation is often done through grafting, layering, or cuttings. Grafting is often done to combine the desirable qualities of two different varieties of avocados while layering and starting cuttings are done to produce duplicate trees. Here’s how to perform each method of propagation: Propagating an Avocado Tree From Cuttings You will need sharp snips, moist and well-draining potting soil, a small pot, and IBA rooting hormone. In the spring, select new growth that is five to six inches long and has several leaves that have not opened. Using sharp snips, cut the new growth branch at a 45-degree angle. Wound the cut end by scraping at the bark on either side of the cutting. This will encourage root production. Dip the cutting into IBA rooting hormone. Bury the cut end into moist, well-draining soil. Keep the soil moist and place the cutting in a sunny area. After a couple of weeks, gently tug the cutting to check for resistance, which indicates root growth. Repot the cutting into a larger pot or outdoors. Grafting an Avocado Tree You will need sharp snips, a sharp knife, and something to cover the grafted area, such as grafting tape. Follow steps one and two as if you are taking a cutting. Remove the tip of the cutting, along with any leaves that are present. Then, wound the tree you would like to graft onto by removing a section of bark. Make sure the cambium of the cutting and the cambium of the tree are touching. Secure the cutting onto the tree with grafting tape, making sure to cover the exposed areas. In a few weeks, the grafted branch and the main tree should be fused together. Air Layering an Avocado Tree You will need a sharp knife, a rooting medium that can be wrapped around a branch, and rope or tape to secure the rooting medium around the tree. Select the branch you would like to take as a new tree. Using a clean knife, cut two circles around the branch to create a section of bark that can be peeled away. Once the bark is removed, scrape the inner branch to clean the cambium away. Wrap the exposed inner branch with rooting material, such as compost in a small bag (make sure the compost is wrapping the branch, not the bag) or another rooting medium. Secure around the branch with rope or tape. In several weeks, roots should develop. When this occurs, remove the bag, cut the branch off below the formed roots, and plant the new tree. Overwintering When grown in the appropriate zones, avocado trees do not require extra care during the winter unless the area experiences a frost. Protect the tree from a cold front by wrapping it loosely in burlap and adding extra soil at the base of its trunk until the frost has passed. For trees grown on the northern edges of their growing zones, it is best to keep them in pots so they can be moved to an area protected from cold weather. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Common pests that may bother an avocado tree include mites, caterpillars, borers, lace bugs, and thrips. Diseases include root rot, fruit rot, sun blotch, and cankers. Be alert to the presence of these pests or early signs of disease. Prompt action is the best way to remedy any developing problems before they threaten the health of your avocado tree.

Growing sunflowers in pots is easy, but you have to follow specific care requirements. Plant sunflower seeds in a pot that can handle your full-grown sunflowers, so you don't have to repot them. Sunflowers grow best in a full-sun spot on a south-facing windowsill, patio, or porch. When you hear "sunflowers," the idea of growing them in pots may be the furthest thing from your mind. But there are many types of sunflowers, and some of them perform admirably in a pot, provided that you take a few basic steps to ensure their optimal growth. Learn how to plant and grow sunflowers in pots, from sowing the seed to choosing the perfect location for the pot. How to Plant and Grow Sunflowers in Pots Sunflowers are easy to grow, but you can increase your chances of success in the project by taking the following steps: Select a suitable variety to grow in a pot. Select a suitable pot. At the most basic level, match the size of the container to the size that the plant will achieve at maturity. Fill the pot with a potting mix. Sowing seeds directly in the pot, rather than starting the plants on a windowsill and transplanting them later, to avoid transplant shock. Sunflowers grow vigorously enough that you don't have to bother starting them indoors. Provide adequate water. Thin your seedling by selecting the seedling that looks healthiest as the one to keep, then gently remove the rest. This avoids overcrowding. If you want to grow multiple potted sunflowers, buy multiple pots. Locate the pot in a sunny spot. Fertilize your potted sunflower. Deadhead the flowers to encourage further blooming. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Sowing the Seed and Nursing the Seedlings The day before sowing seed, fill the container with potting mix (to within an inch of the rim) and sprinkle the surface with water to help it settle. You will be sowing a few seeds in the pot to ensure that something germinates, but you will be keeping only one seedling. Make your planting holes with a pencil, going down 1/2 inch. Drop a seed in each hole, then tamp down the soil to cover it. Water the soil lightly; do not make the soil soggy. After germination, irrigate regularly, but not excessively. The objective is to keep the soil evenly moist. Wait for the seedlings to put on a few inches of height before selecting the best one and thinning out the rest. The problem with thinning earlier is that young seedlings are particularly susceptible to damage from slugs and snails. A small plant can be decimated overnight by these pests. If you remove all seedlings but one too early, only to have that one destroyed by pests, you'll have to start all over again. Soil Sunflowers grown in containers need good drainage. This is why you'll be using a potting soil rather than garden soil: Potting soil is lighter and drains faster. Sunflowers are also heavy feeders, so they will require fertilization. A slow-release fertilizer is the safest type to use. You can also amend the soil with compost or aged manure. Light Sunflowers need full sun to grow properly. Station your pot in a location that, on a typical sunny day, gets six to eight hours of direct sunlight. Water Your goal in watering is to keep the soil evenly moist. It should not be allowed to dry out completely, nor should it be soggy. Potted sunflowers have to be watered more frequently than those grown in the ground, because containers dry out faster than the ground. But other factors, such as weather, also affect how often you will need to irrigate. To determine when it is time to water again, poke a hole an inch down into the soil: If it is not evenly moist down to that level, then it is time to water. Location In addition to choosing a location with full sun, select one that is sheltered from high winds. Potted sunflowers are very attractive on south-facing decks or patios. Best Sunflowers for Pots There are single-stem sunflowers and branching sunflowers. The single-stem types are great for cut flowers, as they bear large blooms on sturdy stalks. Branching types hold a charm of their own; some gardeners prefer them for patio displays, since they produce multiple blooms. Not all sunflower varieties grow well in pots. Large types, such as Helianthus annuus 'Mammoth,' are ill-suited for pots. Dwarf varieties are more suitable for pots; as a bonus, the shorter the sunflower, the less you will have to worry about it being buffeted by wind gusts. Find seeds for any of the more compact varieties of Helianthus annuus, which include: 'Firecracker': 2 to 3 feet tall, Firecracker is a branching sunflower. It has bicolored flowers (gold and reddish) with dark centers. 'Little Becka': 1 to 2 feet tall, Little Becka is a branching sunflower. It has bicolored flowers (gold and copper) with dark centers. 'SunBuzz': A shorter branching type (up to 20 inches tall), SunBuzz has yellow flowers with dark centers. 'Sunfinity': A taller specimen (up to 4.5 feet), Sunfinity is a branching sunflower that has golden flowers with dark centers. 'Teddy Bear': Teddy Bear is a single-stem type, sporting a large, golden flower that has a fuzzy texture. It stands 2 to 3 feet tall. Mexican sunflowers (Tithonia rotundifolia) are not true sunflowers, but they, too, perform well in pots. Best Pots for Sunflowers What makes a good container for sunflowers is one that: Has a large drain hole (to promote the excellent drainage that potted sunflowers need) Stays cool even while being pounded by the sun Has enough heft to offer stability Is big enough that the soil won't dry out too quickly yet not so big that the soil will retain excessive moisture Is made of a material that "breathes" Terra cotta pots are generally the best choice. Unlike plastic pots, they are porous, which allows for evaporation and keeps soil from becoming waterlogged.

The lupine flower, also known as lupin or bluebonnet, looks like a wildflower, but it is a fast-growing legume in the pea family that has a tall, showy spire of colorful blooms that are typically purple. Flowers bloom from spring through midsummer and, while individual lupine plants do not spread, the flower pods each disperse up to a dozen seeds. Lupine is an annual and short-lived perennial flower with a lifespan of two to five years. This low-maintenance plant grows best in northern climates with cooler summers and requires a daily six hours of full sunlight, weekly watering, and soil on the acidic side. These vividly colored flowers are also deer-resistant and beneficial to pollinators like bees and butterflies. The plant is toxic to humans and animals. Lupine Care Here are the main care requirements for growing lupine: Plant lupines during cooler early spring or fall temperatures. Use loose, sandy soil for lupines, and avoid planting this flower in clay soil unless it is amended. Offer lupines more sun and minimum shade. Space smaller lupines a foot apart and larger ones two to three feet apart. Stake taller lupine varieties using grow-through grid stakes to prevent them from flopping over. Water lupine during periods of dry weather. Use an acidifying, phosphorous-heavy fertilizer when planting lupine. Deadhead lupine to encourage continuous flowering. Planting To grow lupine seedlings, dig holes 1 to 1 1/2 feet deep and start small plants about 1 foot apart, while larger plants should be grown two to three feet apart. Ideally, lupine plants are planted outdoors in cooler temperatures, either early spring or fall. Add mulch but avoid fertilizer. Light Lupines prefer full sun, at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days, to grow and bloom their best. They can grow in partial shade, but their flowering will diminish. However, some afternoon shade is ideal in hot climates. Soil These flowers thrive in organically rich soil or loose, sandy soil with sharp drainage. They prefer a neutral to slightly acidic soil pH, though they also can grow in very acidic soil conditions. Lupines will typically not survive in heavy clay soil unless the dirt is loosened a few inches down and heavily amended with compost. Water While lupines don't like soggy soil, which can cause root rot, they prefer regular watering. Water at least weekly if you haven't gotten rainfall to prevent the soil from drying out. Temperature and Humidity Lupines like fairly cool summers and don't bloom well in the hot, humid climates of the southern part of the United States. Place a light layer of mulch around the lupines to retain soil moisture and keep the roots cool in hot areas. Fertilizer Lupines generally don't require fertilizer, and too much fertilizer can encourage excess foliage growth rather than blooms.4 However, an acidifying fertilizer with more phosphorous than nitrogen is useful for lowering the soil pH of alkaline soils. These fertilizers may be labeled as "bloom boosters."5 Lupine already fixes the nitrogen in the soil, so it doesn't require more. Types of Lupine The types of lupine grown in gardens are generally hybrid crosses (Lupinus × hybrida) of various native species bred to maximize flower color and vigor. Lupinus is an enormous genus of flowering plants, comprising hundreds of species. The colorful hybrid lupines most popular for gardens were primarily derived from Lupinus polyphyllus (also called large-leaved lupine), a North American native, crossed with various other species, such as Lupinus arboreus. Although rainbow hybrid lupine seed mixes are the most popular commercially available lupine, the original blue strain is the hardiest. There are several lupine varieties available that vary in appearance, including: Russell mixed colors: Bred in 1937 and naturalized in many areas, this hybrid rainbow and bicolor mixture is the foundation for all new cultivars. Gallery series: Dense flower spikes on this compact plant grow no more than 2 feet tall. For example, 'Gallery White' boasts snowy white flower spikes. 'Dwarf Lulu': These plants grow about 2 feet tall in a rainbow of hues and feature unusually dense racemes. 'Minarette': This dwarf 18-inch variety of lupine looks stunning in drifts along a border's edge or in containers. Lupinus albus (white lupine): This taller lupine can grow up to 4 feet tall with white blossoms. Lupinus albifrons (silver lupine): This taller lupine grows between 3 to 5 feet tall with silver-green leaves topped with pale blue to purple flowers. Lupinus angustifolius (blue lupine): Also called narrowleaf lupine, this taller plant grows to 5 feet tall and has blue blooms. It is used more for agricultural use than for gardens. Propagating Lupines Because lupines sprout so easily from seed, this is the normal method for growing them, though blooming takes longer. Lupines can also be propagated by carefully taking basal cuttings from established plants in the spring and simply replanting them. Basal propagation ensures an ongoing stock of the plants, and they may bloom sooner than seeds. Take these steps: Propagate lupine cuttings in the early spring before the plant has begun to actively grow and leaf out. Use a sanitized sharp knife to sever a segment of the crown and roots from the parent plant. Transplant the new segment to a new location in the ground. Propagate lupine every two to three years, as they are short-lived plants. How to Grow Lupine From Seed Lupines are easy perennials to grow from seeds but can take two years to bloom this way. Buy lupine seeds or harvest the small round tan or green seeds from the plant's pods in the fall. Start lupines from seed in the early to late spring or late fall for the following spring season. Take these steps: Before sowing in the ground, nick the tough seed coat or soak it in water overnight to ensure a better germination rate. Plant the seeds about 1/4 inch deep outdoors in a permanent area that receives full sun. Lupines do not transplant easily due to their long taproots. Expect germination in 14 to 30 days. Potting and Repotting Lupine Plant lupine in pots in the springtime. Choose a large, deep, and heavy container to comfortably handle the plant's long taproots and top-heavy, upright growth. Use well-draining soil, space lupine plants a minimum of a foot apart, and put the container in full sun. Cut the plant back and shelter the pot over the winter to help lupines survive. Overwintering During the winter, lupines die back to the ground and go dormant. Cut the lupine stalks down to the ground, leaving 1 to 2 inches above ground. Mulch to protect the below-ground plant from freezing temperatures as it overwinters. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Lupine is vulnerable to aphids are common in spring.6 Control pests with horticultural oils or pesticides. Lupine is susceptible to lupine anthracnose which causes leaf blight and brown spots.7 Remove and destroy affected plants and avoid using the area to grow lupines for several years so the spores have time to die off. Powdery mildew from poor air circulation can impact lupines with white, powdery patches on foliage.8 Cut away the foliage and wait for regrowth or treat it with organic methods. How to Get Lupine to Bloom Bloom Months Lupine blooms from late spring into July. If they do rebloom after their first flush, they may produce smaller flowers. What Do Lupine Flowers Look and Smell Like? Hybrid lupines have a telltale look of tall, showy spires of flowers that can come in a multitude of colors. The foliage resembles palm leaves with seven to 10 leaflet segments each. Lupines have sweet scents but various types smell different. How to Encourage More Blooms Lupines planted in deep shade typically won't flower. Remedy this by trimming back neighboring shrubs and trees for more sun. A second bloom in the summer may occur but with smaller flowers. Cut back in spring after the first flowering to encourage summer blooms. What to Do With Lupine After It Blooms Deadheading lupine after it blooms and fades may result in a second flush. By the fall, cut the plants down to the ground. Common Problems With Lupine Lupine is easy to grow but there may be a couple of problems. Here's what to look for. Not Blooming Your lupines may not be blossoming because they are not getting enough sunlight, the flowers are underwatered, there's a pest infestation, or the soil does not have enough phosphorous in it. Brown Leaf Tips Lupines are susceptible to a fungus called lupine anthracnose. The leaf tips of younger lupine plants turn brown and bend. As the disease develops, more brown spots and cankers appear on the leaves. Remove and discard all infected plants. To protect surrounding plants from the fungus, use a fungicide for outdoor ornamental plants or one for Colletotrichum diseases. Colletotrichum gloeosporioides cause Lupine anthracnose.