Gray birch is a fast-growing, medium-sized North American native tree that stands out for its attractive color-changing bark, long-lasting catkins, and slender silhouette. This adaptable type of birch tree is easy to grow in full sun or part shade. It tolerates most soils but prefers wetter locations and temperatures that aren’t too high. Gray Birch Care Here are the main care requirements for easy-to-grow gray birch trees: Position in full sun or partial shade. Plant in a cool and moist site with little competition from other species. Water regularly in dry sites during the growing season. Mulch to retain moisture and cool soil. Grows in most soil types, from poor to loamy. Fertilizer is not a typical requirement. Light Gray birch trees do best in a partial shade location. Receiving morning sun means their foliage will look the most impressive. These trees can handle a full sun position, especially in cooler regions, but avoid planting in a full shade location. Soil One of the biggest advantages of gray birch trees is their ability to grow in most soils. For this reason, some enthusiasts refer to the species as the ‘poverty birch’. They can thrive in poor, infertile, rocky soils, rich loamy varieties, and heavy clay. They do prefer a well-drained but moist site. Water While gray birch trees can handle occasional periods of dryness, they do best in consistently moist soils. They have a shallow root system and don’t appreciate extended droughts or high temperatures. Your birch tree won't need supplemental watering in a naturally moist site with sufficient rainfall. If the site is drier, watering deeply over a few hours once a week during the growing season is recommended. An amount of 8 to 18 inches should be sufficient.1 The moisture levels are sufficient when the soil can form into a ball in your hand rather than crumbling. Mulching around the tree base also helps to conserve water. Temperature and Humidity The gray birch isn’t a tree to plant in hot, sultry southern states. This species does best in cooler climates where temperatures are unlikely to exceed 75°F and humidity levels aren’t too high.2Mulching around the tree base also helps to keep the soil consistently cool. Fertilizer Landscape trees such as the gray birch rarely need supplemental nutrients to thrive.1 Only apply fertilizer for this species if a soil test reveals there is a particular nutrient deficiency. If you are fertilizing, use a slow-release formula in late fall or early spring, avoiding application when the ground is frozen. Fertilizing in the summer or early fall can cause late growth that won’t harden off in time for the cold winter months. Pruning A big advantage of the gray birch is that it does not require heavy pruning. Excessive pruning—more than 25% of the canopy—can be detrimental to the health of the tree.1 Too much light getting down to the soil can increase soil temperatures and decrease moisture levels—something you don’t want for a gray birch. If you do need to prune, it should just be to remove any broken, dying, or dead branches in the late summer or fall. Avoid pruning from May to the end of July. This is when bronze birch borers are in flight and these pests are attracted to fresh cuts made after pruning. Propagating Gray Birch Propagating gray birch trees by rooting branch cuttings is tricky but not impossible. If you want to try this technique, being mindful of the low success rate, try following the steps below: Take an 8-inch cutting using sterile pruning shears from a branch tip with healthy new growth. Cut below a leaf node (the lump on the stem where a leaf grows from). Keep any leaves growing on the top half of the cutting and remove the leaves on the bottom few inches. As an optional step, dip the base of the cutting in rooting hormone to increase the chance of it taking root. Plant the cutting in a well-draining, moist potting mix. Loosely cover the pot and cutting with a clear plastic bag. This helps retain a beneficially moist environment. Position the pot in a spot that receives bright but indirect light, and that is away from drafts. Ensure the soil remains evenly moist without being soggy. If successful, the cutting should take root within eight weeks. Once the cutting has fully taken root and remains securely in the soil when you tug, it is ready for transplanting. Transfer the cutting to its permanent location; try not to damage the roots. Keep the transplant evenly moist for the next two months. The propagation technique has succeeded if you see new growth emerging from the cutting. How to Grow Gray Birch From Seed Growing gray birch from seed is a more reliable way to produce a new tree than propagating from cutting. To attempt this technique, try following the steps below: Collect the seeds from catkins as they turn from green to brown in the fall. Stratify the seeds for at least one month in a refrigerator or unheated garage to break their dormancy and prepare them for germination. Sow the seeds in a container of rich potting soil. Cover seeds lightly with a shallow layer of soil and dampen with water. Move the container to a warm spot where it receives bright but indirect light, and keep the soil evenly moist. Keeping in a cold frame helps provide an ideal germination environment. Within a few weeks, you should see signs of germination. Thin out the seedlings as necessary, aiming to select the strongest-looking individuals. When the seedlings are strong enough for handling, prick individuals out and put them into their own pots. Keep them in the cold frame for their first winter. Transplant the successful seedling to its outdoor position after the last frosts in the spring. Overwintering Watering deeply and mulching the tree base in late fall helps preserve moisture and maintain consistent soil temperatures around the roots. Additional watering may be required if you experience a dry winter, but don't leave the soil soggy. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Bronze birch borer infestations can be a problem for gray birch trees. An infestation will result in chlorotic leaves, leaf drop, and the death of upper branches on the tree. Without insecticidal treatment, infestations can eventually kill the tree.3 Fortunately, the gray birch is not as bothered by this pest as some birch species, and healthy trees are less likely to suffer damage than stressed and weak ones. There is also a cultivar, Betula populifolia ‘Whitespire Senior’, which is particularly resistant to these insects. Avoid planting your gray birch in soils with high alkaline pH levels—this can also lead to chlorosis (a yellowing of leaves that would normally be green). Also, watch out for leaf miner attacks (these burrowing larvae are treatable with insecticides) and cankers (infected, dead areas on branches).

Raspberries are gems in the garden, and to help them thrive, pay attention to what you plant nearby—by companion planting for raspberries, you might just get a bigger harvest. Whether you are planning to grow wild raspberries or cultivated varieties, you want the plants to thrive and produce abundant fruit. One way to help the plants along is to pay attention to what crops and plants are located near the raspberry bushes. Learn more about what plants are great companions to your rows of raspberry canes and which plants should never come near them. 11 Good Companion Plants for Raspberries Raspberries prefer full sunlight and well-drained, sandy loam soils rich in organic matter so it is important to select companion plants that have the same requirements. Since raspberries are usually trellised, there is plenty of room at the bottom of the canes for companion plants. Garlic: The pungent odor repels Japanese beetles that can harm the raspberry fruit and leaves. Leeks, Onions, and Chives: All are members of the Allium family with odors that repel harmful insects and deer. Marigolds: Effecting in controlling certain nematodes, microscopic worms that feed on plants. Lavender: Attracts bees and butterflies for pollination. Nasturtiums: Attracts pollinators and repels whiteflies, squash bugs, and aphids. Yarrow: Repels harlequin beetles that feed on raspberry plants. Chamomile: Attracts pollinators. Mint: Repels aphids. Turnips: Attract the harlequin beetle to prevent it from targeting the raspberries. Spring Cover Crops: In the early spring, sow a cover crop such as buckwheat, rye, millet, or oats to improve the organic matter in the soil and to kill out perennial weeds. The crop should be turned into the soil before it goes to seed. Late Summer Cover Crop: Sow a cover crop like spring oats just after the harvest of the raspberries is complete. The oats aid in hardening off the raspberry plants for winter by absorbing excess water and nutrients in the soil, reducing soil erosion, and smothering weed growth. What Not to Plant Near Raspberries Just as some plants can be beneficial to the growth and fruit production of raspberries, others can transmit plant and soil diseases that can harm raspberries. Tomatoes: A member of the nightshade family, tomatoes can carry verticillium root rot that can affect raspberries. If there have been no tomatoes in the soil near the plants for four years, the area is safe for planting. Blueberries: Blueberries require acidic soil to thrive while raspberries only need mildly acidic soil. Planting both fruits together will allow only one to thrive. Potatoes: Another nightshade, potatoes can spread the verticillium virus to raspberries. Peppers: Avoid planting raspberries in an area that has grown peppers until four years have passed. Strawberries: Strawberries are susceptible to the same root-rotting diseases as raspberries. Land that has been planted with strawberries for four years or more can build up a population of root-rotting diseases and should not be used when planting raspberries. Eggplant: Another nightshade spreader of verticillium root rot, keep them away from raspberries. Wild and Cultivated Raspberries: If planting cultivated raspberry varieties, destroy all wild raspberries within 600 feet of the site to reduce the possibility of spreading viruses. Boysenberries, Blackberries, and Gooseberries: Avoid planting raspberries near similar bramble fruits to prevent the transfer of soil-borne fungal diseases. What Is Companion Planting? Companion planting has been done for centuries and is the practice of growing different plants together for mutual benefit.1 A classic example is planting "the three sisters" or corn, beans, and squash together. The corn supplies a support system for the climbing bean vines, the beans provide nitrogen to fertilize the soil and stabilize the tall corn during heavy winds, and the large leaves of squash plants shade the ground to help retain soil moisture and prevent weeds. Unlike other gardening areas, much information about companion gardening is not always based on hard scientific facts, but more on observations and garden lore found in farmers’ almanacs. However, some studies confirm the benefits of separating certain crops from others to prevent soil diseases and nutrient depletion.

You might recognize the lemon cypress as the potted evergreen that seems to show up in every big box retail store before Christmas. However, this narrow, columnar evergreen tree is more than a lemon-scented holiday plant for indoors. It is a versatile needled conifer that can be used as a hedge, specimen, bonsai, or kept in a container on a patio. Also commonly referred to as the Goldcrest Monterey Cypress, Cupressus macrocarpa ‘Goldcrest’ (also known as Hesperocyparis macrocarpa) is a Monterey cypress cultivar with upward-growing branches. The unique yellow-green color of the lemon cypress can play off the darker greens of other conifers, while texture can be experimented with by placing the shrub next to boulders and fencing. Lemon Cypress Care One of the great things about C. macrocarpa ‘Goldcrest’ is that it is an easy plant to care for. Provide full sun to partial shade. Do not enrich the soil. Water a new plant weekly until established. Light Lemon trees require a good amount of light. Outdoors, a lemon cypress tree should be planted in full sun to partial shade. Indoors, the tree needs 5 to 6 hours of indirect sunlight or morning sun; don't put it in a wast-facing window, or risk harming the foliage. Soil The lemon cypress is adapted to grow in poor, sandy, well-draining soils that are low in organics and not very fertile. This poor soil allows the slow-growing tree to pace its development to match its height with its roots, helping to ensure that winds do not blow the thin and narrow plant over. Water As an outdoor shrub or tree, once established, the lemon cypress needs little supplemental watering. Allow the plant to establish itself by watering it once a week during the first season. If kept as a houseplant, give it a thorough deep watering weekly, ensuring the soil is never too dry. Temperature and Humidity A lemon cypress prefers cool, moist climates with temperatures between 20°F and 80°F. Grown indoors, the lemon cypress needs to be kept in a place with sufficient humidity. Fertilizer Don't fertilize a lemon cypress tree. It's native environment has poor soil conditions, and rich soils will cause quick, uneven growth and could result in an unstable tree. Types of Lemon Cypress In addition to the straight species. Cupressus macrocarpa. a few cultivars of Monterey cypress have been bred: C. macrocarpa 'Goldcrest Wilma': a slow-growing dwarf cultivar, 6 to 8 ft. tall, and 1 to 2 ft. wide, with fragrant, golden yellow needles C. macrocarpa 'Golden Pillar': with golden yellow needles when grown in a sunny location, and a mature size of 20 ft. tall and 4 ft. wide C. macrocarpa 'Citriodora': a slow-growing cultivar that can reach 15 to 30 ft. in height. New growth is bright yellow and turns deep green in the first year. Pruning Lemon cypress looks best in its natural, untrimmed, slow-growing upright shape. The only regular pruning maintenance required is when the lemon cypress is used as a hedge, bonsai, or topiary. In these cases, it needs to be done carefully and in a timely fashion. This shrub, like most conifers, does not take well to hard pruning. Pruning Tip Looking for the best pruners for your lemon cypresses? We tested 8 top-rated pruners in our Lab to make sure your shrubs stay happy and healthy. Propagating Lemon Cypress The best time for propagating lemon cypress from cuttings is in the winter. Here's how it's done: Cut a piece of stem about 4 inches long. Strip the foliage off the bottom part of the stem so the first 2 inches are bare. Moisten the cut end and dip it in rooting hormone. Add moist, well-draining potting mix to a small pot. Use a pencil to poke a hole in the soil mix and insert the cutting. Cover the pot with a plastic bag and use sticks to keep the plastic in place. Make sure the plastic does not touch the cutting. Place the pot in a warm location away from direct sunlight. Water it as needed to keep it evenly moist. When the cutting has developed a good root system—you'll know it's there when the stem does not move if you gently tug on it—it's time to remove the plastic bag, move the pot to a sunny location, and let the sapling continue to grow in the container, or transplant it outdoors. How to Grow Lemon Cypress From Seeds Most lemon cypress trees are cultivars and propagating them from seed does not produce a plant with the same features as the parent, therefore, propagation from seed is not recommended. Potting and Repotting Lemon Cypress Excellent drainage is crucial for lemon cypress so make sure the pot you use has large drain holes. Terracotta pots are ideal because they let air get to the roots but the pots also dry out faster so adjust the watering frequency accordingly. If keeping the lemon cypress in a container, it should be repotted once every three to four years. Move it to a larger pot at least one inch wider than the old pot and backfill with fresh potting mix. Prune the roots conservatively to keep growth in check while repotting. Overwintering Even when grown in a temperature range where it can be grown outdoors, cold winter winds burn the needles so the tree needs some protection. Below USDA zone 7, lemon cypress is best grown in a container and brought indoors during the winter. Keep the humidity around it high by adding a humidifier to the area and place it away from any drafts or heaters. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Cypress is prone to attacks by aphids, mealybugs, caterpillars, and scale insects. These usually don't affect the overall health of the tree and can be controlled with insecticidal soap.1 A more serious problem is coryneum canker, a fungus that can kill the tree. To keep it under control, remove infected branches promptly and dispose of them in the trash.1 Common Problems With Lemon Cypress After pruning a potted lemon cypress, you might notice that the tips of the pruned branches turn brown. That is part of the natural process and the brown spots should be disguised in due time by new bushy growth.

Eucalyptus mostly enters our homes as cut branches that we use to add a nice smell to our homes. In nature eucalyptus (Eucalyptus cinerea) is an evergreen tree that grows up to 60 feet high in its natural Australian environment. (It's also a favorite food of koalas.) Planted in a home garden, it stays at 6 to 10 feet tall. Eucalyptus are best planted in spring and don't require any staking or other support structure. They have a fast growth rate and can gain several feet per year. It features reddish-brown bark and silvery, blue-green leaves. The bark, leaves, and sap of eucalyptus are toxic both to humans and pets. Eucalyptus Plant Care Here are the main care requirements for growing eucalyptus: Plant in well-draining soil with full sun exposure. Plant in a location with enough space to accommodate the tree’s full height and spread. (Multiple eucalyptus trees should be spaced at least 8 feet apart). Prefers warm temperatures. Harvest mature leaves and branches later in the growing season. Light Eucalyptus likes a lot of light, so place your plant somewhere that receives at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. Likewise, eucalyptus plants grown indoors should be kept near a bright window, preferably one that faces south. Soil Eucalyptus can tolerate most soil types, but it needs soil with good drainage. For container plants, use a well-draining potting mix. A slightly acidic to neutral soil pH is best. Water Eucalyptus is somewhat drought-tolerant once it's established. However, long periods of dryness may cause it to drop leaves. A good rule of thumb is to water when you can stick your finger into the soil and feel dryness at your fingertip. Temperature and Humidity Eucalyptus prefers warm temperatures between roughly 65°F and 75°F, and it likes a moderate humidity level. It cannot survive prolonged exposure to temperatures below 50°F. So if you're growing your plant in a container, bring it indoors when you expect chilly temperatures. Fertilizer If you're growing your plant in the ground, it typically won't need fertilizer. However, container plants will deplete their nutrients more quickly. So fertilize them with a low-nitrogen houseplant fertilizer throughout the growing season, following label instructions. Types of Eucalyptus In addition to Eucalyptus cinerea, there are hundreds of other eucalyptus species. They include: Eucalyptus globulus: Known as blue gum, this species features smooth bark and is particularly adaptable to a variety of growing conditions. Eucalyptus gunnii: Commonly referred to as cider gum, this species has better cold tolerance than most other eucalyptus species. Eucalyptus platypus: Commonly called moort, this is an especially hardy species that can tolerate heavy soils, cold, and drought. Pruning Eucalyptus trees generally don’t need much pruning. However, you can prune overgrown, broken, or misshapen branches to keep the plant looking attractive. The best time to do so is in the summer, but avoid pruning during very humid weather. Pruning Tip No pruners? No problem! We've tested over 10 top-rated pruners to help you choose the right one for your comfort and personal needs—there's an option for everyone. Propagating Eucalyptus Eucalyptus trees are most commonly grown from purchased seeds or nursery plants, but they can also be propagated via cuttings. The best time to take cuttings is when a tree is between 2 and 12 months old; rooting mature stems is difficult. Aim to take your cuttings in the late summer. Here’s how to grow eucalyptus from cuttings: Fill a small pot with a 3-1 mixture of composted tree bark and perlite, and add a slow-release fertilizer. Moisten the soil. Cut a stem that’s around 5 inches long with four to eight leaves. Cut just above a leaf node. Remove the leaves on the lower half of the cutting. Dip the cut end in a rooting hormone, and then plant it in the growing medium almost up to where the leaves are. Place the container in bright, indirect light in a room that’s around 70°F. Keep the soil lightly moist. Roots should form in about a month. Once roots have formed, move the plant to a sunnier spot and space out waterings. How to Grow Eucalyptus From Seed When considering how to grow eucalyptus from seed, note that the seeds first must be chilled in the refrigerator for two months before planting. Sow them in the late winter indoors roughly 10 to 12 weeks before your area’s last projected frost date. Use a seed-starting mix in peat pots that you’ll eventually be able to plant right into the soil to avoid disturbing the roots. Sow seeds on top of the growing medium, only lightly covering them. Place the pots in a warm spot with indirect bright light, and keep the growing medium moist but never soggy by misting it. Seeds should germinate in two to three weeks. Once the seedlings are about 6 inches tall, they’re ready to go outdoors. Potting and Repotting Eucalyptus Growing eucalyptus in a pot is a great option for gardeners who want to grow the plant outside of its hardiness zone. You can bring it indoors during winter. Eucalyptus plants don't like having their roots disturbed, so it's best to start with a large, 5-gallon container to avoid having to repot. Choose an unglazed clay or plastic pot with plenty of drainage holes. If you must repot, go with a pot 2 inches wider than the previous. Overwintering If you’re growing a container eucalyptus plant outside of its hardiness zones, you must bring it indoors to survive the winter. Do not let your plant be exposed to frost, which can damage or kill the foliage. Place it near your brightest window, preferably a southern-facing one, for the winter. Do not fertilize the plant, and slightly back off on watering. Harvesting Eucalyptus Leaves It is best to wait until late in the growing season to harvest eucalyptus. If you just want the leaves, simply snip them off with pruners or by hand. Air-dry them on a paper towel or drying screen in a cool spot out of direct sunlight. Wait until the leaves are slightly leathery or crispy, and then store them in glass jars with tightly sealed lids. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Eucalyptus plants are fairly free of any major pest or disease issues. But you might occasionally spot eucalyptus long-horned borers, especially on stressed plants. Holes in the bark, oozing sap, and foliage discoloration are signs of an infestation. Remove the infested area of the plant immediately, as insecticides are not effective against borers. Eucalyptus can be prone to leaf spots, which can appear black on the underside of the leaves and brown on the upper side; cankers; and root rot. The trees are also susceptible to heart rot, which is when the center of the tree begins to rot and decay, extending to the branches as well. Once heart rot occurs, it is impossible to save the tree as the fungus weakens and softens the inside, causing permanent damage. The tree will need to be removed. Common Problems With Eucalyptus Eucalyptus trees remain relatively healthy when in their preferred environment. However, in suboptimal conditions, they can come down with certain issues. Leaves Turning Brown Leaves turning brown on a eucalyptus tree can be a sign of too little moisture. That’s likely the issue if you notice leaves curling up or dropping as well. In that case, up your watering to keep the soil lightly moist but not soggy. Brown leaves also can be a sign of disease, especially fungal diseases. If just a small area is affected, remove that portion promptly. Or treat with an appropriate fungicide. Falling Branches Due to their prospective size and height, eucalyptus trees can become very heavy, causing their branches to fall or break.