Lenten rose (Helleborus x hybridus) is not a rose; it's a perennial hybrid hellebore belonging to the buttercup family. The name origin of "Lenten rose" refers to the plant's bloom season, which is around the Christian season of Lent that falls in late winter, and its rose-like flower buds. Lenten rose thrives in partial sun to shady conditions. Plant it in moist, neutral-to-alkaline, rich soil with good drainage. Lenten rose cannot tolerate high temperatures. Lenten rose is toxic to humans and pets. Lenten Rose Care Lenten rose is one of the easiest plants to grow. Here are the main requirements: Plant Lenten rose in early fall or spring in partial to full shade, keeping them sheltered from harsh winter winds. Keep the soil moist, but don't let Lenten rose plant roots get soggy; mulch in early winter. Protect Lenten rose plants from deep freezes. Feed regularly with fertilizer or amend the soil occasionally with organic matter. Light One of the best perennials for shade, hellebores will retain their vibrant sepals and foliage in shady locations. An ideal location for Lenten rose is under the canopy of a deciduous tree, which provides shade in the summer but allows plants to receive sunlight in winter when the trees drop their leaves. They do best when they receive sun in winter but full to partial shade in summer. Soil This early spring bloomer prefers evenly moist, well-draining, fertile soil. Enrich the soil with compost to improve the vigor of the plants or fertilize them with manure tea. Water Hellebores prefer evenly moist but not constantly wet soil; soggy soil can invite disease. Provide enough water to keep the soil moist during prolonged periods of hot and dry weather, but Lenten rose can tolerate dry conditions once established. If no rain is in the forecast, you can expect new plants to need about an inch of water per week. Temperature and Humidity Although its foliage is evergreen, Lenten rose can become scorched and tattered in extremely harsh winters. The plants will need winter protection to keep them safe during deep freezes. Lenten rose requires shade if you live in a zone with intensely hot, sunny summers. It likes constant moisture and grows well in humid climates. Fertilizer Regularly amending your soil with organic matter is enough for a single specimen hellebore. However, for larger plants or a cluster of multiple plants, lightly fertilize with a slow-release, balanced fertilizer in late winter as new foliage emerges. If using liquid fertilizer, ensure it doesn't splash on the foliage because it can burn the leaves. If you accidentally splash some on the plant, use a steady stream of water to wash it off. Types of Lenten Rose Lenten rose cultivars produce blooms in various colors, but the basic plant form is identical. Other hellebore species are similar to the Lenten rose. 'Red Lady': Upward-facing, single-petal flowers with a deep red hue or white with a pink blush. 'Mrs. Betty Ranicar': Abundant snow-white double-petal blooms. 'Windcliff Double Pink': Stunning double pink flowers and mounded foliage. Helleborus niger: Commonly known as Christmas rose, this species produces white flowers, sometimes flushed with pink, that appear at Christmas time in warmer regions or in midwinter in colder climates. Helleborus argutifolius: Commonly known as the Corsican hellebore, it grows along roadsides in Corsica and Sardinia and is known for its coarse but bold evergreen foliage and pale green blooms. Pruning Allow the healthy evergreen foliage to remain on the plant throughout winter. The leaves are dark green, glossy, and look hand-like with fingers. In warmer climates, it is evergreen but will drop its leaves in colder winter climates. Remove old, scorched, damaged, or dead leaves from the plant before the plant is in bloom (usually late winter to early spring). Remove any browned and ragged foliage at its base during the growing season. When the flowers have started to brown at their tips, cut them back to the bottom of the plant. After blooming, prune Lenten rose flowering stems to their base to encourage new foliage growth. Propagating Lenten Rose Lenten rose is among the easiest plants to propagate. You can cultivate more plants through division. The best time to divide mature plants is in spring. A mature plant is about three years old and has flowered in the past. Division can make flowering more vigorous for the upcoming blooming season. Transplanted sections can develop into blooming plants in the first season, but some might not and might need the span of a growing season to recover from the shock of the division. Also, divided plants will likely bloom at least one year sooner than plants grown from seed. To propagate by division: Find a container or shady spot in your landscape or garden, a sterilized knife, and moistened, enriched, well-draining potting soil. Dig up a plant clump and divide it by cutting off a piece of the plant with a healthy root section and vigorous above-ground stems. Replant the division or place the container in a shady location. Water lightly a day or two after planting and keep moist. How to Grow Lenten Rose From Seed Lenten rose produces its seeds in the late spring. You can save seeds collected from faded flower heads for planting in summer or the following spring. Although Lenten rose is not considered invasive, if you don't deadhead its faded flowers, it can reseed, self-sow, and spread to fill an area. Their attractive foliage makes them a gorgeous ground cover. Expect Lenten rose to naturalize under the right conditions. To sow seeds, prepare an area in a shady garden bed or prepare a container with moistened, enriched potting soil. Scatter seeds on the soil surface and gently press them into the soil. Seeds must be in complete contact with the soil but do not bury them. These seeds need sunlight to germinate. Moisten the seed and soil surface. Keep the soil evenly moist, and do not let it dry out. Seeds will germinate over the winter. If not sown immediately after collecting, Lenten rose seeds require a stratification period of at least three weeks of cold for the seeds to germinate. To artificially re-create these conditions, place the seeds in a clear bag and store the bag in a refrigerator for three weeks. Overwintering Although cold-tolerant, this plant needs protection from harsh, cold winds. If the plant is exposed with no windbreak, protect the plants from cold winds with a light fabric covering or cold frame. Otherwise, it can tolerate freezing temperatures. Usually, plants grown in containers need more protection than in-ground Lenten roses. Also, in the colder regions, provide a few inches of winter mulch, which you should remove before they bloom. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Lenten rose is a deer-resistant plant, but they are occasionally susceptible to leaf spot and crown rot. Use preventative fungicides early in the growing season to reduce fungal infections. Proper spacing will also help prevent fungal diseases from spreading among plants. Lenten rose is relatively pest-free; occasional slugs or snails are the most significant threats. How to Get Lenten Rose to Bloom Lenten rose can be planted in early fall or late spring and have a lengthy bloom period. When growing a plant from seed, do not expect plants to produce blooms in the first year. It can take two or more growing seasons before flowers appear. Also, if you transplanted or divided your Lenten rose, it might not bloom for a year or two after that division. To encourage blooming, spread a bit of compost around the plant or a light dose of fertilizer in the early spring. Also, if the plant is being grown in a container, make sure the plant is not rootbound. Bloom Months Lenten rose usually blooms in February and stays in bloom until April. How Long Does Lenten Rose Bloom? Once they start blooming in winter, Lenten rose tends to stay in bloom for about eight to ten weeks. What Do Lenten Rose Flowers Look and Smell Like? Lenten rose is available in many varieties with different flower colors. The flowers have five petals that come together to form a cup shape. There are also several new double-flowering and bicolor varieties. These flowers have very little fragrance and are not particularly well-liked for their scent. Caring for Lenten Rose After It Blooms After Lenten rose finishes blooming, it does not require any unusual care. You may want to save seeds at this time or consider deadheading the plant. Deadheading Lenten Rose Deadheading Lenten rose will not encourage it to bloom further but will prevent it from self-seeding. Deadhead the spent flowers if you don't want the plant to spread in your garden. Common Problems With Lenten Rose Lenten rose is one of those plants that you can plant and forget about. If you situate it in the right spot, this plant can do the rest—and last for years. However, fungus can be a problem. Black Marks on Foliage and Stunted Growth If you notice black patches on the foliage or flowers, it could be the black death virus. This disease makes plants look stunted or deformed; plants will develop black streaks and netting patterns. As the name implies, this disease is deadly. Destroy this plant; it's not salvageable and can spread to other nearby plants. Aphids or whiteflies can spread it. Apply horticultural oil to any plant with those insects to keep the virus away from your other plants. Dry, Brown Blotches on Foliage Botrytis is a fungus that favors cooler, wet weather. It's also called gray mold. It starts as water-soaked spots on leaves and stems and evolves to form dry, brown blotches. The disease can attack the flowers in severe cases, making them unsightly and short-lived. To prevent the fungus from affecting your plant, ensure adequate spacing between plants; crowding breeds fungal issues, as does soil that is too soggy or impaired by poor drainage. To treat the condition, spread 1/2 inch of lime chips around the base of the entire plant. Yellowing Leaves Your evergreen plant might develop yellowed leaves during hot summers or harsh winters. Lenten roses can tolerate extreme temperatures but might not rebound immediately and will reflect their stress by yellowing their leaves or refusing to bloom. To encourage regrowth, trim off dead or dying leaves.

Tomato plants (Solanum lycopersicum) are beloved by gardeners, with over 10,000 possible types to grow.1 These leafy annuals grow juicy, flavorful fruits in shades of red, yellow, orange, purple, pink, brown, and green. Plant tomatoes in late spring or early summer once all danger of frost has passed. Depending on the variety, tomatoes can be ready to harvest anywhere from 42 to 110 days from germination. Here's a guide for how to grow tomato plants, including finding the best planting location, care requirements, and harvesting. How to Plant Tomatoes When to Plant Plant tomato seedlings outdoors after all danger of frost has passed and night temperatures are consistently above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Store-bought and home-grown seedlings need to be hardened off before planting outdoors. When the weather is warm enough, begin hardening off the seedlings by bringing them outdoors in the shade for a few hours each day, gradually increasing how much light they receive and their time outdoors. Once night temperatures are consistently above 50 degrees, you can transplant tomato seedlings outdoors. Where to Plant Choose a well-drained planting site with loamy soil and eight hours of direct sunlight daily. Practice crop rotation: wait three years before planting tomatoes in a bed where you've grown other crops in the nightshade family (tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes, peppers, and tomatillos) to help keep plants disease-free. Water tomato plants well before planting. How to Plant Plant tomatoes 18 to 24 inches apart, three to four feet between rows, for proper airflow.2 Indeterminate varieties need more space than determinate varieties because they don't stop growing until frost kills the plant. Check seed packets and seedling tags for spacing guidelines for your plant varieties. To transplant tomato seedlings, dig a planting hole deep enough so the soil line is below the bottom-most healthy leaves. Planting deeply means digging the planting hole deep enough that 2/3 of the main stem is buried underground. Remove a few sets of the bottom leaves to create a longer stem. Only 1/3 of the plant should be visible above ground. The stem will develop roots from any part buried in the soil, which leads to extra-strong plants. A bigger root system means your plants can absorb more water and nutrients, resulting in a healthier plant that is less susceptible to drought, disease, and attack by tomato pests. How to Start Seeds Indoors Start tomatoes from seed indoors six to eight weeks before your region's first frost date. Fill seed trays with soilless seed starting mix and moisten the soil well. Plant tomato seeds a quarter-inch deep and cover them with soil. Put the trays in a warm place under a grow light. When the seedlings are two to three inches tall, pot them up into three-inch pots, burying them up to the lowest leaves. How to Grow Tomato Plants in Pots Because they grow only to a specific size, determinate tomatoes (sometimes called bush tomatoes) are ideal for container planting, although some indeterminate types are bred for pot planting. Use a high-quality soilless potting mix that's light and drains well while holding onto necessary moisture. Mix in organic compost before planting to add fertility. Use 14- to 20-inch pots with ample drainage holes; the larger, the better. Tomatoes planted in containers generally benefit from cages or other supports. Keep them well-watered because container plants dry out more quickly in hot weather than in-ground plants. Tomato Plant Care Light Tomatoes require eight hours or more of direct sunlight daily to grow, flower, and fruit. In warmer regions like the southern United States, tomatoes might benefit from afternoon shade during the hottest times. Soil Plant tomatoes in a site with rich, well-drained soil. Choose a spot with soil that is slightly acidic loam or sandy loam. Work organic matter into the soil in the autumn or a few weeks before you plan to plant. Water Water tomato plants regularly to ensure they receive at least one inch per week. Consistent watering will help produce the best-quality fruit. Apply water directly to the soil at the plant's root zone rather than sprinkling water overhead and wetting the foliage. Keeping the foliage dry will reduce the chance of fungal diseases. Mulching with organic material like hay, straw, or grass clippings not treated with pesticides can help retain soil moisture.3 Temperature and Humidity Tomatoes can grow well at various humidity levels but need warm temperatures to survive and thrive. Temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit can stunt growth and damage the plant's ability to produce flowers and fruit. Daytime temperatures above 85 degrees can cause blossom drop4, but you can help plants withstand the heat by mulching the soil around plants and keeping them well watered. Fertilizer Tomato plants require nutrient-rich soil to grow and produce healthy fruit. To ensure your tomato plants receive the nutrients they need, a soil test can help you determine the soil contents, lacking nutrients, and the type of fertilizer your soil needs for good tomato growth. If the soil is rich and fertile or has enough organic matter or compost before planting, you might not need to apply additional fertilizer throughout the growing season.3 However, tomato plants usually benefit from fertilizer application at several different points in their growth cycle. To encourage more flowering and fruiting rather than foliage growth, choose a fertilizer that's higher in phosphorous and lower in nitrogen.5 Pollination Tomatoes are self-fertile, meaning you don't need more than one plant for pollination. Movement from the wind is usually adequate to ensure pollination. However, adding a few summer-blooming annuals to the vegetable beds is ideal to attract pollinators such as bees and other insects. In high tunnels or greenhouses, growers use strategies like tapping tomato cages or stakes to help move pollen from the male to the female parts of the flower.6 However, a few different issues can cause pollination issues. High daytime temperatures (over 90 degrees F) and low night temperatures (under 50 degrees F) can inhibit pollination and cause blooms to drop before they can set fruit. Insufficient water can also cause issues with flowering and pollination, and so can applying fertilizer that is too high in nitrogen, which causes plants to put energy toward foliage growth instead of flowering and fruiting.7 Types of Tomato Plants Tomatoes are treasured for their taste and nutritional benefits, which include phytochemicals and nutrients like lycopene, potassium, iron, folate, vitamin C, and other antioxidants.8 There are thousands of tomato varieties, including lower classifications, from heirlooms to hybrids.1 Tomato plant growth habits are also divided into two main categories: determinate and indeterminate. Determinate Tomato Plants Determinate tomatoes mature relatively early, growing to a mature size of three to four feet tall. All fruit on the plant ripens within roughly two weeks, and then plants die back. Because determinate tomato plants are usually compact, they're great for container growing and don't require heavy staking as indeterminate tomatoes do. Determinate tomatoes are often used for sauce and canning. Other determinate types are: Roma: This plum tomato produces heavy yields of medium, rich red, meaty fruit. Celebrity (Solanum lycopersicum 'Celebrity'): Determinate celebrity tomatoes are disease-resistant and prolific, with the added bonus that they fruit from when plants reach their mature size until frost. But unlike indeterminate tomatoes, they don't keep growing larger as the season progresses. Rutgers: This heirloom variety, in production since 1934, produces bright red fruit with heavy walls and great disease resistance. It ripens evenly, inside and out, making it an easy-care cultivar that is equally delicious, fresh, cooked, or preserved. Marglobe: This variety is adaptable to various soils and produces thick-walled fruit. It is very good to eat fresh or canned. Indeterminate Tomato Plants Indeterminate tomatoes include most cherry tomato varieties, heirloom tomatoes, and beefsteak tomatoes. Instead of growth stopping once fruit sets, indeterminate tomatoes will keep growing and fruiting until the first fall frost kills the plant. Because they keep growing, they require sturdy staking and regular pruning. They're also better suited to in-ground planting. Here are a few popular varieties: Better Boy (Solanum lycopersicum 'Better Boy'): This popular indeterminate slicing tomato offers disease resistance, relatively early harvest, and sizeable one-pound fruits. Yellow Pear (Solanum lycopersicum 'Yellow Pear'): Known for its clusters of sweet, pear-shaped yellow tomatoes, this indeterminate variety dates back to the early 19th century. Green Zebra (Solanum lycopersicum' Green Zebra'): A cross between four different heirloom tomatoes, this indeterminate "heirloom hybrid" is prized for its bright flavor and chartreuse color. Pink Brandywine (Solanum lycopersicum 'Brandywine'): This indeterminate, easy-to-grow heirloom offers hefty, flavorful fruits in a beautiful blush shade. Varieties of Tomatoes: Early Season, Mid-Season, and Late-Season Another factor to consider when choosing tomato varieties is how long it takes for fruits to mature and be ready to harvest. Early-season varieties will grow ripe, ready-to-harvest fruit in 42 to 70 days. Mid-season tomatoes mature in around 70 to 80 days, while late-season varieties take 80 to 110 days to mature. Pruning Pruning tomatoes can offer several benefits, such as earlier harvests, disease resistance, and larger fruits. It's recommended to pinch or prune away the suckers—shoots that grow out of the axils where leaves meet stems—in indeterminate tomato varieties. This allows plants to direct energy towards fruiting rather than excess leaf growth and keeps plants tidier and generally easier to maintain. While determinate varieties are not always pruned, plants can develop stronger stems if you remove suckers that grow below the lowest flower.5 Harvesting Tomatoes Harvest tomatoes when fruits have fully colored, with a firm yet supple texture and healthy size for their variety. Ripe tomatoes will have smooth, shiny skin. Use scissors or pruners to cut stems when harvesting because pulling fruits off the vine can damage the plant. When a frost is forecast, remove all fruit from in-ground plants. Propagating Tomato Plants You can use the suckers you remove from your plants to propagate new plants.9 Desuckering and Rooting Tomatoes. Clemson Cooperative Extension. Here's how: Pinch or prune off a good-sized sucker from a mature tomato plant. Remove the leaves on the lower half of the sucker stem. Poke a hole in the soil nearby, leaving adequate space between plantings. Plant the sucker in the hole. Roots will grow along the portion of the sucker's stem that is below the soil line. When you see new growth, you'll know the sucker has rooted. You can leave it in place or dig it up and relocate it to another area of your garden. Care for the plant as you would any tomato plant. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Tomatoes can fall prey to diseases and garden pests. Plant disease-resistant varieties and prevent issues with crop rotation, applying water to the soil and root zone rather than wetting the foliage with overhead watering, cutting away lower branches that might come into contact with soil, pruning suckers, and giving plants adequate space to enable airflow. Tomato diseases can be fatal if you don't identify, treat, and try to prevent them from occurring. Treat insects like aphids by spraying them off with water or treating plants with neem or horticultural oil. Some pests, like tomato hornworms, must be picked off by hand.

Radishes (Raphanus sativus) are notorious for their fast production, growing from seed to harvest in as little as 21 to 30 days. While red, round radishes are the most commonly conjured, radishes come in all sorts of shapes, sizes, and colors. Depending on the variety, they can be spherical or oblong like a carrot, and might be red, green, white, pink, purple, or yellow. If you're a beginner gardener, this quick-growing root vegetable is a perfect place to start your growing journey. For a successful harvest, follow these tips for how to grow and harvest radishes. How to Grow Radishes Radishes grow best when directly sown in cooler conditions, and can be grown in spring and fall. You can plant radish seeds as soon as the soil can be worked. Allow about one inch between seeds in the row. Many radish varieties mature very quickly; to ensure you have an ongoing supply of radishes and don't just harvest them all at once, sow seeds weekly (a gardening technique known as succession planting). Once spring temperatures reach 65 degrees, stop planting radish seeds, as heat will cause them to bolt, which means the plant is going to seed. If your radishes don't form roots, that could be a sign that there is excessive nitrogen in the soil—do a soil test to confirm. A rapid onset of hot weather or overcrowded garden beds could also be the cause. Make sure your radishes have ample room to grow and mature fully How to Know When a Radish Is Ready to Be Harvested It can be challenging to know when it's the right time to harvest root vegetables like radishes. After all, they grow underground and aren't as easy to observe as cucumbers or tomatoes. However, there are a few signs to look for to be sure your radishes are ready to be harvested. You're within the window of time in which that radish variety reaches maturity. (Different varieties have different growing times, so be sure to check the seed packet to confirm.) The above-ground radish greens are four to six inches tall. In general, the roots should be about around one inch in diameter, which you should be able to tell by the shoulders of the radish emerging above the soil. How to Harvest Radishes Once you're certain that your radishes have reached maturity, you'll want to harvest them. Don't wait too long; you want to pick them at the right time for peak flavor and texture. If they stay in the ground too long, they will get fibrous and develop a strong, unpleasant taste. Using your finger or a small garden trowel, scrape away the soil above the radish root. If it is one inch in diameter, it's ready to be harvested. Grab the radish at the base of its greens and pull straight up. You may need to gently wiggle it to loosen it from the soil, but it should emerge easily. Separate the root from the greens. If left attached, the leaves will draw out moisture and nutrients from the radish bulb. Wash each radish under cool, running water and rinse the radish greens, if keeping. Store radishes in an airtight, resealable container in the refrigerator's vegetable crisper drawer for one to two weeks.

To take your garden from existing to thriving, you'll want to consider companion planting. These are plant pairings that have a symbiotic relationship in some way, helping the other one grow successfully. Good pairings include plants with shared water and light preferences, pest control, and space efficiency. Bad pairings can happen, too. This often comes down to plants that have contrasting growth and care needs, or plants that attract pests or release growth-inhibiting chemicals. Here's what to know about the best companion plants for your herbs specifically. Basil and tomatoes may be a dreamy combination on the plate, but they also make the best of friends in the garden. For starters, the scent of basil keeps hornworms away from tomato plants and tomatoes can offer shade for basil plants while they're leafy. Master gardener Mary Jane Duford notes that other great companion plants for basil include chives (and other onion family plants) and oregano, both of which can keep pests at bay. In terms of similar care needs, cilantro ticks the boxes. "Cilantro has similar soil and moisture preferences, and basil can take the spot of cilantro in the garden when cilantro bolts as temperatures warm in the summer," Duford says. As for plants to avoid, Duford says to skip planting dill and mint near basil as they can be competitive growers. Sage also isn't a great choice as it needs drier soil. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Rosemary and Sage When you're looking for garden bed pals for rosemary, consider sage, or make it a trio and throw lavender into the mix, too. All together they can thrive in dry, well-drained soil and won't get too competitive, Duford says. Outside of these two plants, think about adding thyme to keep weeds away and monitor soil moisture. For pest control, Duford says that rosemary and carrots or cabbage family plants will ward off pests for one another, such as moths and carrot flies. There are also some plants to avoid planting nearby rosemary. Basil is one as their moisture needs don't align, but mint could be even worse. "Mint spreads aggressively and can compete with rosemary’s shallow root system," says Duford, adding that "fennel can inhibit rosemary’s growth through chemical interactions in the soil." Thyme and Lavender Lavender, rosemary, and sage are wonderful companions for thyme as they all do best in the same dry, well-drained soil and get pollinators to head their way, according to Duford. Another plant to consider is chamomile, which has the potential to boost the essential oils in thyme, giving it a stronger aroma and helping it grow. Thyme also excels at keeping pests away from the likes of broccoli, kohlrabi, Brussels sprouts, and cabbage. Strawberries will experience the same perks as thyme will bring pollinators along and mask the scent of the fruit. Try passing on basil and cilantro, at least in the same area as thyme since they require much more water in their soil. Mint is also too aggressive for thyme. Dill and Onions Keep annoying pests from attacking your dill plants by planting onions within their vicinity. These and other onion family plants produce a scent that mites and aphids dislike, allowing your dill to stay intact. Dill can also provide the same pest-warding properties for a variety of other plants. Brassicas like kale, broccoli, and cabbage can resist cabbage moths and various other pests when they're planted next to dill, says Duford. When you're considering the types of plants to steer clear of, you'll want to keep tomatoes and fennel away from dill. "Tomatoes can be stunted by mature dill plants due to root competition and potential negative chemical interaction," says Duford. "Fennel and dill negatively affect each other’s growth when planted too close together." Parsley and Carrots Cilantro works well with parsley and has similar needs and habits, but it's not the only one. "Carrots grow well with parsley, as they share similar needs and aren’t overly competitive with one another," says Duford. When it comes to pest repellent properties, lean on chives and onions to keep aphids and other bugs from munching on your parsley. Options that won't benefit parsley's growth include mint, which Duford notes will overpower the plant. Lettuce is a no-go as well due to root competition, since parsley's taproot is much longer.