The bleeding heart flower (Lamprocapnos spectabilis) gets its name from its puffy, heart shaped pink blossoms that bloom in the spring. Beneath each heart shape sticks out a white petal with a red streak. The long, arching stems give the plant a cascading effect. This plant, which is native to Asia, can reach up to three feet in maturity. In a typical growing season, it will produce around 20 small flowers on its stems and stay in bloom for several weeks throughout the spring. These are perennial plants, which means even if the bleeding heart itself disappears, it will bloom again the next year in either fall or spring. Bleeding heart plants are in the same family as poppies and are toxic to people and pets. Bleeding Heart Care Here are the basic care requirements for growing a bleeding heart: Plant bleeding heart in a shady, protected area Place roots down in the ground with the crown just below the soil Use rich, organic moist, well-draining soil Keep the soil moist but not soggy Fertilize bleeding heart plants only if your soil is poor Planting Plant a bleeding heart in partial shade and rich, well-draining soil. Plant the bleeding heart's bare roots so the crown is about 1 to 2 inches below the soil. If it's planted too deeply, the crown may rot. Protect these delicate flowers from strong winds by placing a bleeding heart in an area with a windbreak and some sun protection. A woodland garden is ideal for a bleeding heart plant. Light Bleeding heart does best in partial shade, but it can also handle full shade. Note that direct sun can cause the plant to go dormant early and cut its blooming period short. Soil Bleeding heart prefers humus-rich, moist, well-draining soil with lots of organic matter. A slightly acidic to neutral soil pH is best. Before planting, it's ideal to work a few inches of compost into the soil, especially if you don't have organically rich soil. Water Bleeding heart plants like lightly moist soil. It doesn't tolerate soggy or dry soils very well. Water throughout the growing season when the top inch of soil has dried out, even during summer dormancy to keep the roots hydrated. But make sure the soil doesn't stay waterlogged, which can lead to root rot. Temperature and Humidity Bleeding hearts' ideal temperature is between 55-75º, and it has a tolerance for high humidity. As the summer heat strengthens, you'll likely see the foliage yellowing; this is a perfectly normal sign of the plant going dormant to store its energy. Fertilizer Bleeding heart plants are not heavy feeders, so when to fertilize depends on the quality of your soil. If you have rich, organic soil that is amended every year, you likely won't have to feed at all. If you have poor soil, you can apply an all-purpose, slow-release fertilizer in the spring. Also, as a woodland plant, the bleeding heart does well with a top dressing of leaf mold. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Types of Bleeding Heart Bleeding heart bush (Lamprocapnos spectabilis), or common bleeding heart, differs in its looks, growing conditions, and hardiness from the bleeding heart vine (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), also known as the glory bower plant. When planting common bleeding heart, look for several varieties with similar growing characteristics, including: Lamprocapnos spectabilis 'Alba': This cultivar produces pure white heart-shaped flowers. Lamprocapnos spectabilis 'Gold Heart': This cultivar produces pink flowers and yellow-gold foliage but grows slightly smaller (up to 2 feet tall) than the classic bleeding heart plant. Lamprocapnos spectabilis 'Valentine': An eye-popping cultivar, this plant blooms bright cherry-red flowers with white tips and burgundy stems. Dicentra spectabilis ''White Gold': This elegant plant blooms with bright white flowers and chartreuse foliage. Dicentra spectabilis 'Ruby Gold': This unique variety features golden foliage with ruby red blooms. Pruning No major pruning is required, though you can trim back the foliage as it becomes brown and unsightly before dormancy. Refrain from deadheading (removing the spent blooms) if you want the flowers to go to seed. Propagating Bleeding Heart Bleeding heart is usually planted from nursery seedlings, but you can propagate bleeding heart from seeds, clump division, or stem cuttings. Propagation by cuttings is best done in spring to early summer. If you are starting from seeds in the garden, sow them in the fall. Here's how to propagate bleeding hearts: Propagation by Division Dig a circle around the crown of the roots and pull up the root ball. The roots grow horizontally. Do not worry when cutting through the roots. Examine the root crown; look for pink buds of growth. Cut through the root ball, leaving at least one bud per sectioned area (two to three buds per section is better). Replant the original root ball in its original spot. Plant the new section or sections in new spots or a potting mix enriched with compost or leaf mold. Water thoroughly to moisten the soil, but do not leave it too wet or soggy. Propagation by Cuttings Use sterilized pruners to take a 3- to 5-inch cutting from a healthy bleeding heart plant and take off the leaves from the bottom half of the cutting. Fill a container with potting mix and poke a hole in the center of the soil. Dip the cut end of the cutting into rooting hormone and put it into the hole. Firm the soil around the stem. Water the soil to the point that it's moist but not soggy. Put a clear plastic bag around the cutting, not touching the plant. If condensation appears on the inside of the bag, poke a hole in the plastic for some ventilation. Place the plant in indirect light. A bright windowsill will be too sunny and scorch the plant. Make sure the soil remains moist but not soggy. Once you notice new growth, the plant has successfully rooted. Remove the plastic bag. Move the bleeding heart plant outdoors once it's rooted well and new growth is more abundant. Harden off the plant in a protected spot for a few days before moving it to its permanent spot outdoors. How to Grow Bleeding Heart From Seed To start seeds indoors, place the seeds in a pot of soil. Put the pot in a plastic bag, and place it in the freezer for six to eight weeks. Remove the pot, and gradually reintroduce the plant to light and warmer conditions. The change in temperature and exposure to sunlight will allow the seeds to germinate and sprout. Bleeding hearts also tend to self-seed in the garden, though not invasively. The tiny seedlings can be carefully dug up and transplanted. Potting and Repotting Bleeding Heart Bleeding heart plants do well as container plants, and they can be grown indoors, as well, but conditions need to be right. Opt for a large container that's at least a 12-inch pot with drainage holes. Unglazed clay is best to allow excess moisture to evaporate through its walls. Use a quality, well-draining potting mix. A bleeding heart plant can live for four to five years in a large container before becoming root-bound and needing to be repotted. Either divide your plant or move up to a container that will fit its root ball with a couple of inches to spare between it and the container walls. Gently ease the plant out of its old container, and place it at the same depth in the new pot. Fill around it with potting mix, and water well. Overwintering Bleeding heart will naturally die back during the winter season. However, the roots should survive the cold weather, even if the plant appears dead above ground. As the plant depreciates before winter, you can cut the stems down to 1 or 2 inches from ground level. Keep watering the soil up until the first frost. At the start of winter, you can protect the roots and help them retain moisture by adding a 2-inch layer of mulch on top of the plant stems. Remove the mulch as the ground thaws in the spring. Common Pests & Plant Diseases When it comes to pests, bleeding heart struggles the most with aphids, scale, slugs, and snails. The easiest and least invasive treatment for aphids and scale is using an insecticidal soap or neem oil. Slugs and snails are best remedied by physically picking them off at night or in the early morning and disposing of them in a bucket of soapy water. Bleeding heart is prone to fungal diseases, including powdery mildew and leaf spot, which can be treated with a fungicide. If the plant has turned black and is foul-smelling, it's rotting and can infect other nearby plants. Pull the plant and dispose of it in a sealed bag. If it was in a container, sterilize the entire container and throw out the soil. If the diseased plant was pulled from your garden, treat the area with a fungicide. How to Get Bleeding Heart to Bloom Bleeding heart is usually a spring-blooming plant and will continue to flower into the summer until it gets too hot. Note that this plant takes some time to establish and might not flower in its first growing season. Plants that are cramped and need to be divided also might not flower or flower less than a typical bloom. To trigger the plant to flower again in the season, you can stimulate new growth by cutting the plant down to one inch above ground level. Also, ensure that the plant stays out of the direct sunlight, which can hinder blooming. Common Problems With Bleeding Heart Bleeding heart plants are not usually problematic when the growing conditions are right. Common issues stem from inadequate watering or pest and disease problems. Powdery Patches on Foliage Spots of black, gray, white, or pink powder on bleeding heart leaves indicate powdery mildew, a treatable disease when caught immediately. A fungicide will remove the problem. To prevent powdery mildew, water at the soil level (not on the foliage) and ensure the plants are not crowded and have plenty of aeration. Brown or Black Spots on the Leaves If a bleeding heart plant develops small brown or black spots on the leaves that grow larger with a yellow ring or halo with the center of the ring beginning to rot out, then the plant likely has fungal leaf spot. Treatment with a fungicide or baking soda solution can neutralize the fungus if caught early. As the disease progresses, the leaves drop and the plant will die. Yellowing Leaves A bleeding heart plant naturally turns yellow and dies back as the temperature increases. The plant is entering dormancy, which is its normal growth cycle. However, yellowing leaves can also occur if the plant is getting too much water, the soil is too alkaline, or the plant is getting too much sun. Adjust those conditions as necessary. Additionally, yellowing can also be a sign of a fungal disease emerging, such as verticillium or fusarium. A plant with this disease is not salvageable and should be destroyed before it spreads to other plants. Browning, Blackening, or Rapid Wilting of the Plant Diseases like verticillium wilt, fusarium wilt, botrytis, and root rot will cause a plant to fail quickly. Initial signs will be wilting, leading to all-over browning or the plant beginning to rot. Botrytis appears as a gray mold that overtakes the plant. If your plant is infected with these fungal issues and has begun to brown or blacken, the plant is too far gone, and fungicide will likely not help. Remove all of the soil, discard it, and sterilize the container before using it again. Seal the plant in a plastic bag before discarding it.

Keeping your Christmas tree fresh means maintaining the tree’s needles, fragrance, and vibrant color. But besides watering your Christmas tree, what can you do to ensure your tree boasts holiday splendor and that classic Christmas tree aroma—saving you from taking your tree down too soon? To find out more about how to care for your tree, we chatted with Christmas tree experts and arborists. Here, they share their tips for keeping your Christmas tree fresh all season long. How Long Does a Real Christmas Tree Usually Last? A real Christmas tree can last between four to six weeks with proper care although there are things you can do at home to extend your tree’s life. However, according to Rocco Malanga, the owner of Cedar Grove Christmas Trees, this number depends on how it’s maintained at home and how it was harvested and handled by the retailer. Hence, some of our experts’ tips include how to treat the tree when you first get it from the tree lot. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Start With a Fresh Cut Even before inserting your tree into a Christmas tree stand, there’s a crucial first step to making sure your tree stays hydrated. Ask an attendant at the tree lot to trim the tree by making a cut at least an inch off the bottom of the trunk to allow better water absorption, Malanga says. This will help your tree take in more water effectively. Use a Pet-Safe Preservative Adding a preservative to your tree stand’s water reserve can help keep your Christmas tree hydrated. But many of these have bleach in them, so they aren’t safe for pets who might try drinking from the tree stand. Many tree lots offer pet-safe preservatives that can be added to the water for enhanced hydration and needle retention, Malanga says. Ask the person selling you your Christmas tree if they have pet-safe preservatives that you can add to water when you feed your tree. Hydrate Your Tree Water the Christmas tree daily. Check the water level each morning to make sure the tree has enough water, and if it doesn’t, add more water to the tree stand. Depending on the Christmas tree variety, a full-size evergreen tree will take more water to stay hydrated than you might expect. For example, a 6-foot-tall evergreen will need about a gallon of water each day. Besides adding water to the tree stand, you can also spray the tree’s needles. Use a simple spray bottle to mist water on your tree’s branches once a day to prevent them from becoming brittle. Place Your Tree Away From Hot Fireplaces and Heating Vents Because Christmas trees can dry out, you don’t want to place them near a heat source like a fireplace or heating vent. According to Scott Seargeant, an international arborist and landscape contractor at Seargeant Landscape and Arboriculture, you should always test a room for unexpected heat sources before placing your tree in it. “Have a thermometer or a temperature app on your smartphone and take temperature readings in several locations within the room,” he suggests. Make sure the room is at the typical temperature you normally keep it set to when running your tests. But if every room in your home runs warm, place the tree as close as you can near a window. That way, you can periodically open the window to cool down the tree if needed. Keep Your Heating System Turned Down or Off at Night One way to avoid drying out your tree is to make sure your heating system is set low or turned off. At night, set your thermostat to 68 degrees to keep the home at a comfortable temperature in the evening when everyone’s tucked in bed. You’ll also want to turn the thermostat off when no one’s home. “Newer house thermostats are programmable from your smartphone,” Seargeant explains. "If you are at work or out and about, you can adjust the thermostat lower when everyone has left the house after you.” Choose a Room With Vaulted Ceilings Another way to keep your tree from drying out is to place it in a room with vaulted ceilings. This is because living rooms with vaulted ceilings are far better than those with lower ceilings to keep heat at bay. “Heat rises and a vaulted ceiling will keep the heat farther away from the tree than typical lower ceilings,” Seargeant says.

Tomato plants are rapidly growing vines that need support, especially once the heavy fruits begin to ripen. Tomato cages are a practical, affordable option, especially when you're growing just a few plants. Cages are designed to provide structure, support vines, and keep fruit from contacting soil which causes it to rot. Gardeners have plenty of options regarding size, material, and ease of use, but there are several factors to consider when choosing the best tomato cage for your crop. Choose the Right Tomato Cage The sturdiest tomato cages are constructed of metal, steel, or wood and may or may not have a weather-resistant finish. Powder coating extends the life of the product and protects your hands from hot surfaces when working with your plants. Cages come in several shapes including square, triangular, cone-shaped, and rings. Standards differ according to shape but a cage between two and three feet wide and four and six feet tall accommodates most tomato varieties. Many offer adjustable horizontal bars that attach with connectors, allowing you to move them up the vertical stakes as needed. Vertical stakes extend at the bottom to anchor cages in the soil. Many fold for easy storage but cone-shaped cages take up more room in the garden shed, though they are usually the least costly. A mature plant supported correctly should not fall over or collapse the cage. Cages for Determinate Versus Indeterminate Tomatoes Determinate tomatoes produce fruit all at once which increases the weight load on vines. Plenty have a bushy growing habit with shorter, thicker vines to support multiple fruits. A cage four feet tall and two feet wide constructed with sturdy materials is usually adequate. Good air circulation is especially important for compact plants, so use a narrower cage to separate and evenly spread branching vines from bottom to top. Triangular or square-shaped cages work well for determinate tomatoes. Indeterminate tomatoes produce fruits all season, harvested as they ripen. This reduces weight load, however, vines often grow to 10 feet in length. A taller six-foot cone-shaped or square cage with a three-foot diameter is better suited for indeterminate tomato varieties. Cages with movable horizontal supports allow you to adjust as vines lengthen providing structure where the plant needs it most. Cages for Potted Tomatoes Growing tomatoes in pots limits your choices to cages that fit the diameter and depth of your pot. Anchor stakes should fit down inside the pot without bending. Cages as short as 15 inches and just six inches in diameter are available but keep your tomato variety, fruit size, and height of the mature plant in mind when selecting a cage support. When to Add Tomato Cages It's always a good idea to add cages at planting time. Add cages to potted tomatoes right after planting to make sure everything fits snugly and correctly. In the garden, you can wait until young plants begin to branch out, two to three weeks after transplanting. They are entering into vegetative growth when vines grow rapidly and root systems begin to spread. Waiting too long to place a cage can leave you stymied by a tangle of vines and anchor stakes can damage feeder roots. How a Tomato Cage Supports a Plant Tomato plants have a built-in anchor called a tap root that can extend into soil to depths of three feet, but this rarely balances out heavy top growth. Cages provide additional support and help you manage vines for better disease control and fruit production. Strong vines will support fruit. When the main stem begins to branch each new vine is attached to the lowest horizontal support, separated, and placed to balance growth evenly. As vines lengthen upwards they are attached to the next horizontal support in the same manner. The idea is to reinforce their weight-bearing capacity along as much length as possible. When used correctly, a tomato cage allows good air circulation in the plant's center. It prevents stress damage to vines that can weaken and break with heavy fruit or environmental factors like high winds. How to Add Tomato Cages to Your Plants Tomato cages are an easy way to get started with an uncomplicated, workable system for supporting your crop. Select a size and design based on your tomato variety. Position the cage with the planted tomato seedling in the center. Push the anchor stakes into the soil to a depth of eight inches applying pressure evenly on the top of the cage. Extensions on the bottom are designed to penetrate the soil easily, however, if you meet resistance, try applying pressure on the lower part of the cage first, or use a mallet to gently tap the top bars. Find a section on the first branching vine with a well-developed leaf and stem on either side and place a soft tie, like twine, on the vine below the leaves. The double "V" formed by the leaves prevents the vine from slipping. Tomato vines thicken as they mature so always allow space by tying them loosely to the cage. If the branch is already flowering or a small fruit has formed, leave extra room for it to develop or choose a different spot to attach. It's fine for fruit to develop inside the cage. Knot the twine against the bar of the cage. Knots placed against vines can rub, strip the surface and invite disease and pests. Follow the plant's natural upward growth pattern and avoid attaching vines in a way that stretches or pulls. New growth is flexible and can be positioned but tying it to a support can cause it to break or wilt. Heavy rain and high winds can displace tomato cages. Reset the cage, centering it, and gently ease the anchor stakes back into the soil. Single metal, wood, or bamboo stakes can be added and tied tightly to vertical cage supports if needed.

Winter may feel more like a month of hibernation, but it's perfectly possible to enjoy gardening and see a few green shoots well before spring rolls around. One of the best ways to do this is by propagating and growing herbs indoors. Whether you're interested in growing basil for your favorite dishes or would like the calming fragrance of lavender in your home, we spoke with two gardening experts to get their best advice on propagating herbs during winter. Use Softwood Cuttings First, you're going to need cuttings to get your indoor herb garden started. "For herbs like basil, thyme and oregano, I would recommend to use softwood cuttings, not hard, so that one can actually succeed at getting those plants started," says master gardener Kim Butler. The same can be said for lavender and rosemary. If you don't already have cuttings, it's better to wait for spring. "They don't propagate well from hardwood cuttings, which is usually all that's available in the winter months," says gardening expert Ren Elizabeth. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Keep Your Cuttings Warm You're not the only one who appreciates a cozy home during winter—your herb cuttings will love and thrive in this kind of environment, too. "Herbs develop roots a lot faster if they are kept around 70ºF," Elizabeth says. To maintain this temperature, she suggests using a heat mat, or putting them near your radiator or wood stove. Not only does this give your plants a better chance of survival but it cuts down on the possibility of rotting, too. Be a Mindful Propagator Some herbs are easier to grow than others, and practice makes perfect, as does knowing certain plant behaviors. Even the simplest herbs to grow can have their fair share of challenges—like mint. While you may want to move these herbs outside come springtime, Elizabeth warns against putting mint to raised beds or directly into the ground. "It really will take over and it is really difficult to stop its spread," Elizabeth says. The best way to keep herbs in check is to do your research. Invest in a Grow Light Because winter is darker and colder than spring and summer, having a little supplementary light can help support your cuttings. Propagated herbs need the energy from a light source in order to grow and thrive, just as newly planted seeds might. In order to support your plants, you can invest in true grow lights, or get creative like Elizabeth does. "I use LED shop lights that I have mounted on a metal shelving unit," she explains. "While shop lights don't emit a focused light spectrum like grow lights do, they are very affordable to buy and are energy efficient." Opt for Water Propagation There are a few different ways you can propagate plants, but Butler recommends using a water propagation method by "placing the cuttings in a clear jar at room temperature with the leaves above the water." It's a relatively simple way to get your herbs going and doesn't require any soil from the get-go. However, Elizabeth says to keep an eye out for algae growth. She's found that her water-bound cuttings are often prone to algae. "In order to keep this at a minimum, I change the water a few times a week," Elizabeth says. Add Some Honey Part of propagating and growing herbs indoors is waiting. It takes some time to see growth and get your herbs to a point where they can be planted and harvested. "I sometimes add honey to stimulate the process," Butler says. But she also adds that you shouldn't "use nutrients until they have properly established roots." Keep a System Going Year-Round Winter propagation is totally doable, but it's smart to have a system and routine in place all year long to keep your plants healthy and keep an abundance of herbs coming in. "[I] regularly prune them, rotate my pots, and sometimes move them outdoors for some air, and use those cuttings to start new plants," Butler says. Elizabeth also encourages taking more cuttings than you usually would—especially for this colder season. "By giving yourself an extra cutting or two, you're countering some of the decline in rooting rate that you'll normally experience in the winter," she says. Know Specific Plants' Needs While there are some general herb care guidelines, each plant has its own needs. It's smart to read up on the specific herbs you want to propagate and grow so you know how to best care for them. For example, Elizabeth notes that oregano is hardy and "does well being propagated by division nearly year-round." Thyme, on the other hand, does best when it's layered under dirt in the soil. Knowing what different herbs like will lead to far more success when creating your own herb garden this winter.