Magnolia trees are versatile landscape plants with hundreds of species and cultivars ranging from dwarf types at 6 to 12 feet up to the towering 80-foot Southern Magnolia, M. grandiflora. With a wide range of bloom times and flower size and color, one can be found to fit every yard and garden. When Do Magnolia Trees Bloom? Flowering occurs according to species and climate with blooms in late winter, spring, summer or autumn. Some varieties bloom more than once for two to three weeks. Others produce flowers before they leaf out. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! What to Know About Magnolia Trees Growing Season Magnolias may be deciduous or evergreen with most evergreen types hardy to zone 7. Evergreen varieties are cultivars of the Southern magnolia, blooming from spring to early summer with large, white flowers continuing sporadically throughout summer. Deciduous and semi-evergreen species and their cultivars grow in zones 3 and higher with a wider range of bloom periods and flower color and size. M. grandiflora 'Little Gem': A dwarf evergreen cultivar, Little Gem blooms in May with a primary flush that continues sparser into July. It's a slow grower maturing at 20 to 25 feet tall and 12 to 15 feet wide. Flowers are creamy white up to 12 inches in diameter. M. grandiflora 'Samuel Sommer': This evergreen variety produces some of the largest flowers up to 14 inches across. A spring flush of creamy, white flowers slows in summer with a second autumn flush in ideal climates. Samuel Sommer matures at 35 to 40 feet with a 20- to 30-foot spread. M. grandiflora 'Edith Bogue': An evergreen cold hardy to -15°F, 'Edith Bogue' thrives in zones 6 to 9. Lemon scented, white blooms appear late spring through early August depending on climate. Trees mature at 40 feet tall with a 30 foot spread. M. virginiana 'Sweet Bay': At heights and spreads of 10 to 35 feet, Sweet Bay magnolia and it's cultivars grow as large shrubs or small trees. Native to the eastern U.S., varieties feature smaller 3-inch, white flowers in May and June. This is a semi-evergreen species with some cultivars evergreen as low as zone 4. M. soulangeana 'Saucer Magnolia': This deciduous magnolia and its cultivars are the most commonly grown varieties. They bloom early from March to mid-April with sporadic flowering through summer. 6-inch flowers open before foliage in white, pink, rose, purple, magenta or burgundy. Mature sizes range from 20 to 25 feet tall and wide. M. stellata 'Star Magnolia': Noted for its compact size and star-shaped, white flowers, this magnolia blooms late winter to early spring. It matures at 10 to 20 feet with an 8- to 15-foot spread. Flowers measure 4 inches across in shades of white, pink and purple. Ideal Growing Conditions for Magnolia Trees to Bloom Review care requirements for specific varieties to ensure they'll flourish and bloom in your climate. Certain cultivars adapt well to wetlands, coastal or urban areas. Here are general growing conditions. Moist, well-draining loam with a slightly acidic pH of 5.5 to 6.5 is ideal. Allow soil to dry out slightly in between watering. Sweetbay magnolias can thrive in boggy soil. The majority of magnolias do not like standing water and become drought tolerant when mature. Water newly planted trees two to three times a week. Plants may require additional watering during bloom periods. For finest flowering, provide six hours of direct sun exposure daily. Some cultivars prefer afternoon shade in hot climates, however the better light you give them, the better they'll bloom. Overall health of your tree depends on its hardiness zones. However, late cold snaps can damage buds and reduce flowering. Ideal temperatures for blooming fall between 60°F and and 75°F. Heat stress at 90°F can reduce flowers and shorten the bloom period. 5 Great Magnolia Trees Care Tips Magnolias make up the largest group of plants in the magnoliaceae family with as many as 340 species and numerous cultivars. These flowering trees and shrubs thrive in diverse environments with a wide range of bloom times, sizes, growth habits and flower color. Do your research and choose a magnolia variety suited to your climate and growing zone. Support flowering by adding compost or well-rotted manure in early spring. Or spread a balanced, slow release formula such as an NPK 10-10-10 out to the dripline. Protect early blooming varieties from late frost which may cause bud and flower loss. Lightly prune after flowering to remove dead or crossing branches. Hard pruning reduces flowering. Spent flowers usually drop making deadheading unnecessary. Mulch to protect shallow roots, retain soil moisture and discourage weeds.

Growing figs can be extremely rewarding—even beginning growers can learn how to grow a fig tree in a small yard or roomy planter with minimal fuss. With their large, lobed leaves and slender, woody branches, common figs (Ficus carica) have lots of ornamental appeal, but they’re mostly grown for their edible fruit, which turns purple, brown, or yellow when ripe and can be eaten fresh, cooked, or dried. These fast-growing trees thrive in warmer regions and are typically planted in late fall or early spring. However, growers in cooler climates can keep figs by growing hardy, dwarf trees in pots and overwintering them indoors. If you’ve ever dreamed of making luscious desserts with homegrown figs or are simply on the hunt for a unique fruit tree for your garden, you’re in luck. You’ll find all the tips you need to grow fig trees right here. How to Plant Fig Trees Figs are typically sold as either bare root trees or potted plants. Both types of trees are planted using a similar technique. However, if you’re transplanting a potted fig, you may need to tease apart or cut through circling roots before planting to encourage healthy growth. When to Plant While indoor figs can be planted in pots at any time of the year, outdoor trees should be planted in early spring or late fall, when the trees are dormant and the ground is workable. Selecting a Planting Site Figs can tolerate partial shade, but they’ll grow and fruit better in full sun. When you’re ready to plant, select a spot that receives at least 6 hours of direct light daily and has rich, well-draining soil, and plenty of space for figs to spread out. Planting figs in a south-facing location can be particularly beneficial in cooler areas. If you’re growing figs in pots, keep plants on a sunny patio or porch during summer, but move them indoors or into greenhouses before winter arrives. Spacing, Depth, and Support To plant outdoor figs, dig a hole slightly wider and deeper than your tree’s root ball and amend the soil with some compost. Gently wiggle potted figs out of their nursery containers, taking care not to damage their roots. Bare root trees will usually need to soak in water for a few hours before planting. Position the tree in the center of the planting hole. If you’re working with a bare root plant, heap soil into a low mound in the center of the hole to support the tree’s trunk. Then, evenly fan the roots out around the planting hole. Backfill the hole until it’s mostly filled, and then water well to help the soil settle in. If you’re growing multiple fig trees together, full-sized figs should be spaced at least 20 feet from each other and buildings. Dwarf trees can be planted a bit closer together. Fig Tree Care Most fig trees take about 3 to 5 years to fruit, although potted figs may fruit earlier. Providing figs with the right balance of light, nutrients, and water during this time is essential if you want trees to remain healthy and produce a large harvest of future fruit! Light Outdoor figs need 6 to 8 hours of direct light, while indoor figs can do well in sunny, south-facing windows. In low light homes, keep figs under a grow light for 8 to 12 hours a day. Soil Figs can tolerate a range of soils, but slightly acidic, well-draining, loamy soils with a pH of between 6.0 and 6.5 are ideal. Standard potting mixes will work for potted figs, while compost blended into planting holes can help outdoors figs thrive. Water Water container-grown and young fig trees regularly with about 1 inch of water per week. Established, outdoor trees may not need any additional water beyond rainfall. Temperature and Humidity Figs grow best in zones 8 and up, although cold hardy figs can be grown outdoors in zones 6 and 7 with winter protection. In colder areas, figs should be cultivated as container plants and moved indoors or into greenhouses in winter. Humidity is rarely an issue with these trees; however, indoor figs may benefit from the addition of a humidifier in homes with dry air. Fertilizer Fig trees are not heavy feeders and inground plants are usually content with an annual application of compost or balanced fertilizer in spring. If you add compost to your planting hole when transplanting, you typically won’t need to apply fertilizer until the following spring. Potted figs need more attention than inground plants and should be fertilized about once a month in spring and summer with a balanced fertilizer. Pollination Some figs need insect pollinators, but common figs are self-fertile and self-pollinating plants that don’t need insect pollination or other fig trees to fruit. Types of Fig Trees Growers can find a variety of edible fig trees, but it’s important to choose figs that are well-suited for your growing location. Dwarf figs are best for container gardens, while cold hardy figs are more likely to thrive in chilly regions. ‘Brown Turkey’: A versatile fig choice, ‘Brown Turkey’ can be grown in pots or inground gardens and it yields medium-sized, sweet fruits with reddish-brown skins. ‘Celeste’: Relatively cold and heat tolerant, ‘Celeste’ is disease resistant, and produces ultra-sweet fruit with purple skins. ‘Little Miss Figgy’: This dwarf fig only grows about 4 feet high, but it produces large harvests of medium-sized figs with excellent flavor. Harvesting Figs Figs are harvested in late summer to early fall when the sweet and juicy fruit develops its mature color and starts to soften. A tell-tale sign that figs are ready to pick is when the ripening figs droop on their branches. To harvest, grasp a ripe fig in one hand and the supporting tree branch in the other, and gently lift the fig away from the tree. Ripe figs should be easy to pick! Figs don’t last long after harvesting and they can only be kept in the fridge for about 2 to 3 days. For longer storage, try canning, drying, or freezing. How to Grow Fig Trees in Pots Potted and outdoor fig trees have similar care needs, although container-grown plants may need to be fertilized and watered more regularly. Mature trees need 15 to 20-gallon pots to grow, but younger plants can be kept in smaller containers. Be sure to select a pot with plenty of drainage holes, use a well-draining potting mix, and position your fig in a spot that receives lots of bright light. Pruning Pruning is generally not needed for fig trees, although you may want to shape young figs by clipping away wayward branches. After that, simply prune away damaged, weak, or broken stems when the trees are dormant in winter and thin out excess fruit as needed to keep branches from breaking. Propagating Fig Trees Figs can be propagated in several ways, but the easiest options are layering and rooting stem cuttings. Layering works best in warm areas where temperatures never dip below freezing. Simply anchor a low-growing fig branch to the ground with landscape staples so the base of the stem is buried in soil and at least 8 inch of stem and leaves are above the soil line. Allow the buried fig branch to develop roots, and then cut the branch from the parent plant. If you live in a colder area or simply prefer to propagate fig trees from prunings or stem cuttings, here’s how to start: Using sharp pruners, cut several healthy, 8 to 12-inch stem cuttings from the parent fig in spring when figs are still dormant but the danger of frost has passed. Each cutting should be about as wide as your pinky finger and the stem ends should be cut on a slant near a leaf node. Add sealant to the cut stem end to prevent disease and dip the end of the cutting in rooting hormone. Fill a 6-inch pot with potting mix and plant four cuttings per pot with the cut stem ends buried several inches deep. Cover the pot with clear plastic to boost humidity. Move the cuttings into bright, indirect light and water only when the soil feels dry. Once the cuttings produce significant new growth, transplant them into large pots or outdoors into your garden if the weather is mild. Overwintering In warm areas, outdoor figs need little winter care; however, in cooler locations, you may want to wrap fig trees in burlap and protect their roots with mulch. Container grown figs can be grown year-round indoors or in greenhouses, but they typically won’t fruit unless they’re subjected to a period of cold. For maximum fruiting, keep potted figs outdoors until a light frost arrives and the tree drops its leaves. Then move the bare fig tree into a cool, dark, and protected spot, such as a garage or basement, and water sparingly once a month until spring. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Protecting outdoor figs with fruit protection bags can prevent birds and other wildlife from nibbling on ripening fruit. Figs can sometimes develop diseases like fig leaf spot and rust, but minor pests like aphids, whiteflies, scale, and mealybugs are more common, especially in greenhouses.

Knowing when to harvest okra will make a big difference in how it tastes. Tender, young okra is delicious but large, older pods will be tough and fibrous. The first okra pods should be ready to harvest about 60 to 70 days after planting when pods are 2 to 3 inches long. Okra pods develop continuously over the summer, growing very fast on the plant, and should be harvested every two days (or more!) Read on for tips on harvesting okra, including signs they're ready and how to do it the right way. How to Know Okra Is Ready to Pick It's been 2-3 months since you planted. Okra should be ready to harvest 60 to 70 days after planting the seeds. Transplanted seedlings from seeds germinated indoors will produce pods in about 40 to 55 days. Okra flowers are wilting away. Okra plants produce large, yellow flowers that look much like a hibiscus. Once the okra blooms have wilted, the pods will form within a few days. Pods are 2-3 inches long. The pods should be picked when they are about two to three inches long—bigger is not better for okra pods. Pods are vibrantly colored. The pods should be vibrant green or purple, depending on the variety you are growing. Pale pods can be woody. How to Harvest Okra the Right Way While the pods can be snapped off the stem by hand, it's best to use garden shears or a sharp knife to minimize damage to the plant. Leave a short stem about one-fourth inch at the top of the okra pod. Keep a bucket or basket close by to collect the pods—they are easily bruised if handled too much. Okra is best eaten freshly harvested from the garden. If storing, do not wash the pods before placing them in the refrigerator vegetable bin. If properly harvested, handled gently, and stored at temperatures of 45 to 50 °F., the pods should last for about seven days. 7 Additional Tips for Growing Okra Round-podded okra varieties (Louisiana Green Velvet, Emerald, Stewarts Zeebest, Peter Pan, and Greeny Splendor) actually do remain tender at larger pod sizes. Choose them for slicing and food preservation. With optimal growing conditions and care, when harvested regularly, okra plants will continue to produce blooms and pods for up to 12 weeks. Each flower produces one okra pod. The flowers are edible and make great additions to salads. However, don’t pick them all—the flower, once pollinated, produces the pods. While the okra plant is a single stalk, its leaves need plenty of room to grow. Okra should be planted 9-12 inches apart with 3-6 feet between rows. Okra can be cut back in late summer to produce new growth and extend the harvest season. When harvest time is over, okra pods can be left on the plant to dry to save seed for next year. Okra needs full sun, warm temperatures, and well-draining soil to thrive.

The Persian lime (Citrus × latifolia) is the most common and what you're most likely to find for sale in the grocery store. Growing a lime tree is easy and requires relatively little care if it's placed in the right conditions. It's known for its abundant fruiting habits, whether grown in the ground or in a container. Lime trees produce fruit in around three years. Plus, the tree is pretty to look at, bedecked with petite, ovular leaves and delicate white flowers. A dwarf lime tree is about half the size of a regular lime tree, whereas key lime trees are bushier and produce smaller, more tart key limes. Learning how to grow a lime tree is a great idea if you live in a warm climate and have an open spot in your landscape. See the steps below. How to Plant a Lime Tree A newly planted lime tree requires minimal care once it is established so long as it is planted in the right conditions and area. Selecting a Planting Site Pick a very sunny spot, one that gets at least 6 hours of direct light per day and is preferably south-facing. Consider how future plantings will impact the light and choose a spot where you know future plant growth or outdoor living structures will not impede it. Amend the Soil A lime tree loves organically rich soil. If that's not what you have, amend with compost and manure before planting. Choose a well-draining area; the lime tree does not tolerate wet conditions. To aid in drainage, you can add organic matter, sand, or perlite to the soil. You can also create a mound and add amendments to help things along. Pack the soil down firmly to prevent air pockets, since they hold water. Spacing, Depth, and Support Lime trees should be spaced 15 feet from the closest tree. Your tree should be planted in a hole the same depth and twice as wide as the rootball. Unless the tree is planted in a very windy location, staking should be unnecessary. Lime Tree Care Growing a Persian lime is easy as long as you provide it with the proper care; here are some requirements that will help your lime tree thrive: Provide your lime tree with full sun, for at least six hours. Ensure your tree is given enough water and proper drainage. Plant in an area with good organically rich soil or in a container with quality potting soil. Fertilizer is not necessary but will improve the tree's health. Keep your lime tree in a warm spot at 60-90 degrees Fahrenheit.. Light Sunlight is essential; your tree will produce as much fruit as possible and stays healthy in an area with full sun. Planting your tree in a sunny location is a great idea, but this is extra important for potted plants. Soil The lime tree enjoys rich soil loaded with organics that feed the tree with the necessary nutrients. At the same time, the soil needs to be moist, but well draining. Test your soil before planting and amend it as necessary. Water Give your lime tree plenty of water and keep the soil consistently moist to get the juiciest fruit possible. Use a soaker hose to keep the soil moist under the tree's canopy to a depth of 2 inches. When the soil is dry to the touch, water again. When you plant your tree, more frequent water is needed until it has established itself. Temperature and Humidity Lime trees are native to tropical areas, so recreating similar conditions would be ideal. Keep your lime tree in a warm area; they do not do well in cold conditions. Strictly adhering to the recommended USDA zones of 9 through 11 is your best bet. Fertilizer A Persian lime will do fine without feeding, but adding a fertilizer to your care regimen will increase the tree's vigor and fruit production. Fertilize your tree with an NPK formulation in a ratio of 2:1:2 three times a year. You can find citrus fertilizers with this formula at most garden centers. Apply in early winter, late spring, and mid summer. Pollination Unlike many fruit trees, you will not have to worry about planting two lime trees for pollination. The lime tree is self-pollinating, and there is no real increase in yield seen when multiple trees are present. Types of Lime Trees The Persian lime is the most commercially available lime in the world—and what you find in the supermarket. There are also a few other species that are grown for culinary purposes: Kaffir Lime (Citrus hystrix): Kaffir lime is another very popular lime tree that produces much less fruit and is less hearty. Key Lime (Citrus × aurantiifolia): A small, tart lime tree that produces limes used mostly for baking, the key lime tree is the third most popular lime commercially. Philippine Lime (Citrus × microcarpa): This lime tree is a hybrid between the kumquat and mandarin orange. Rangpur Lime (Citrus limonia): The rangpur lime is a popular hybrid of the citron and the mandarin orange. Harvesting Persian Limes The lime tree will grow limes year-round. Once fruit appears on the tree, it will take around five months to become large and ripen to a greenish yellow with soft, tender flesh. At that point, it is ready to harvest. How to Grow Lime Trees in Containers Growing a lime tree in a pot allows you to move the tree to the area that receives the most sun, is the most convenient location for watering, and is not as prone to cold temperatures that can damage the plant. A potted lime tree requires a bit more care than an in-ground lime tree. Here's how to care for it: Choosing a pot: Use a pot with drainage holes that are considerably bigger than your tree to give it room to grow. Select a good quality organic potting soil and add a mix of organic compost. Aim for a ratio of 5:1. This mixture will give your lime plenty to feed on and limit the need for much supplemental fertilizer. Location: Place your lime tree in a sunny place. If you decide to keep it indoors, you may need to add a grow light to supplement the lighting. A broad spectrum grow light will best mimic the light you need for an abundant harvest. Watering: Potted lime trees will need their water needs monitored closely as the container they are placed in can impact the soil's ability to hold moisture. The soil should be consistently moist. Temperature: If the temperature in your area goes below 50 degrees, you should bring your lime tree inside during the cold months. Pruning the Lime Tree Your lime tree will require very little pruning since it grows very slowly. Your biggest concern will be looking for damaged, dead, or dying branches. When the tree gets some height to it, it is a good idea to prune to allow for easy harvest, but this may be a job best done by a certified arborist since a mature lime tree will require a ladder to reach the top. Propagating a Lime Tree The Persian lime is a seedless variety, so the only option to propagate a lime tree is by taking cuttings. While this is possible, it is not recommended. You may get a viable tree that produces some fruit, but it won't be as healthy or successful as a purchased sapling. The common lime tree is a variety that is grafted onto the heartier rootstock of the bitter orange (Citrus aurantium). This species is highly disease resistant compared to the Persian lime and is much more tolerant of cooler temperatures. It is therefore a much better idea to buy a commercially sold lime tree. Your tree will be healthier, produce more, be more vigorous, and live longer. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Bitter-orange rootstock ensures the lime tree does not suffer from many root or trunk diseases. The biggest disease that should be on your radar is Citrus canker. It causes brown spots on the leaves, which can move to the fruit if left untreated. Use a soaker hose to defend against this disease, but a preventive spray of a copper fungicide every year can be prophylactic. Insects to be aware of are aphids, citrus mites, scale, and leaf miners. All are relatively harmless in mature trees and can be taken care of easily with neem oil.