The tomatillo plant (Physalis philadelphica) bears small, globe-shaped fruits of the same name. It resembles an indeterminate tomato plant in its vining growth habit but its green, purple, or yellow fruits are covered in a papery husk—which has earned the plant another common name, the husk tomato. Like tomatoes, the tomatillo is a member of the nightshade family (Solanaceae). Tomatillo plants are native to Mexico and Central America but widely grown for their tasty, tangy fruit that matures in about 75 to 100 days after planting and is a go-to ingredient for salsa verde. In its native climate, tomatillo plants are perennials but in most areas they’re cultivated as annuals. How to Plant Tomatillos When to Plant It’s best to plant tomatillo plants as transplants in the garden after the last frost, which usually corresponds with mid-March or mid-April, depending on the growing zone. In hot weather climates, you can also plant tomatillo plants in the fall or winter months. Where to Plant Choose a planting spot with well-draining soil; if soil drainage is poor, plant in raised beds. Tomatillo plants are also a good choice for vegetable container gardening. It’s also important to note that you shouldn’t plant tomatillos in a spot where you’ve grown other nightshade crops, like tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, or eggplants to minimize the risk of certain plant diseases and restore nutrients to the soil. Companion plants for tomatillos include basil and carrots. Spacing, Depth, and Support Tomatillo plants should be buried deeply to promote extensive root development; about two-thirds of the plant can be below the soil line, with just a few pairs of leaves emerging above the surface. Because of their bushy growth, tomatillo plants should have at least 2 feet of space between each plant, with rows spaced three feet apart. Compared to a tomato plant, a tomatillo plant is lighter and requires less external support. That being said, it’s still a good idea to use a stake, trellis, or cage to support the plant and ensure adequate airflow. In addition, at least two tomatillo plants are necessary for fruit production. While a single tomatillo plant will produce lush foliage, cross-pollination with a neighboring tomatillo plant is required if you want to harvest tomatillos in due time. Tomatillo Plant Care Light Choose a planting site that receives full sun—at least six to eight hours each day. Abundant light exposure increases flower production, which is the precursor to prolific fruit production. Soil Well-draining soil is the most important factor when it comes to soil type. Heavy soils that hold excessive moisture can expose the plant to root rot. The best soil conditions are rich and loamy with a slightly acidic to neutral pH level. Water Tomatillo plants do best with regular watering but be careful not to overwater the plant. Only water when the top few inches of soil is dry to the touch. These plants exhibit moderate drought tolerance. Because of the risk of fungal disease, it’s best to water the plant at its base rather than drenching the foliage. These plants do exceptionally well with a drip irrigation system. Temperature and Humidity Tomatillos are cold-sensitive and grow best when temperatures are between 65°F and 80°F. If the temperature climbs too high, it can adversely affect fruit development.1 Fertilizer The best fertilizer for tomatillo plants is a low-nitrogen formula like 5-10-10. This will ensure that the plant receives adequate nutrients to support root and flower development without encouraging excessive foliage growth that can stifle the production of tasty tomatillos. Types of Tomatillos Green Varieties ‘Tamayo’: With fruit that is about 3 inches in diameter, this is one of the largest tomatillo varieties and the fruit has bright green skin. ‘Toma Verde’: This is one of the more common varieties of tomatillo plants because it matures quickly (in about 60 days) and produces medium-to-large fruit that is commonly used in salsa recipes. ‘Rio Grande Verde’: This plant produces some of the largest tomatillo fruits and does so in abundance. Purple or Yellow Varieties ‘Purple Coban’: A smaller tomatillo variety that yields fruit about 1 inch in diameter with a deep purple skin when ripe. 'Amarylla’: A yellow variety of tomatillo with a sweeter taste. ‘De Mipla’: This Mexican heirloom variety produces small fruits an inch or less in diameter with a mottled green and purple appearance and a strong flavor. Tomatillos vs. Tomatoes Tomatillo plants and tomato plants have similar growing requirements since both plants prefer full sun and need the support of a stake or cage while growing. However, tomatillo plants require a second plant for cross-pollination while a tomato plant is self-fertile, meaning you can plant just one and still yield a crop of tasty tomatoes. The mature fruit of a tomatillo plant is also covered in a papery husk and has a tarter, more acidic flavor profile and denser flesh than the juicy, soft, and sweet flesh of a ripe tomato. Harvesting Tomatillos You’ll know it’s time to harvest the tomatillos from your plant when the fruit fills the paper husk, which will turn from green to tan and may even start to split open. To harvest tomatillos, gently grasp the fruit in the palm of your hand and give it a gentle twist and tug, which should snap the stem and release the fruit. Alternatively, you can snip the stem with scissors or garden shears but take note that ripe tomatillos should release easily from the stem. If the fruit has a lot of resistance, it may not be fully ripe yet. How to Grow Tomatillos in Pots Nightshades, which include tomatillos along with other vegetables like eggplants and potatoes, can easily be grown in containers or pots. To do so, choose a deep pot with a generous circumference to accommodate the bushy growth of the tomatillo plant. A 5-gallon bucket or pot (or larger) will provide enough room for the plant to develop. Keep in mind that you’ll need two tomatillo plants, so prepare two pots with high-quality potting soil. Tomatillos grown in pots have similar care requirements so choose a spot with full sun and provide a means of support for the growing plant. It’s also worth noting that plants in pots tend to have an increased need for water and nutrients so you’ll likely need to be more vigilant about watering and fertilize more regularly. Pruning It’s not necessary to prune a tomatillo plant but you might do so to improve the strength of the plant’s main stem and improve airflow. If you prune, do so by removing any suckers that start to grow below the lowest flower on the plant. Propagating Tomatillos Tomatillos propagate easily and in fact, the stem of a trailing tomatillo plant is likely to grow roots when left in contact with the ground. The easiest way to propagate a tomatillo plant is by means of a cutting and you can root it in soil or water. Here’s how to do it: Gather a pair of sharp pruning shears or scissors and cut a 6-inch section of stem from the tomatillo plant. Remove any leaves from the lower half of the stem and, if desired, dip the cut end into rooting hormone (although it’s usually not crucial to growth for this plant). Note: You can also utilize a sucker removed during pruning to serve as a cutting for your new tomatillo plant. Plant the cut end of the stem deep into nutrient-rich, well-draining soil in your garden or in a container, with just the leaves just emerging over the soil line. Alternatively, you can put the cutting in a jar of clean water, with the leaves above the water line. For cuttings grown in soil: After several weeks, look for indications of rooting such as new leaf growth or light resistance when you gently tug on the stem. Once established, you can transplant to another location in your garden if desired. For cuttings grown in water: Once you observe root growth, transplant them to a container or directly into the garden. How to Grow Tomatillos From Seed To start tomatillos from seed indoors, begin the process by sowing seeds about six to eight weeks before the anticipated final frost of the season. Use small containers or seed starter trays filled with soilless potting mix and push tomatillo seeds about ¼-inch deep into the potting mix. Water to maintain soil moisture and keep temperatures between 70°F and 80°F for germination, which takes between one to two weeks. After sprouting, water regularly and expose the plants to bright light, using a grow light if necessary. Once the final frost has passed and the seedlings have taken root and have about a half dozen leaves, they’re ready to be transplanted into the garden. Overwintering In most growing zones, the tomatillo plant is grown as an annual and will need to be replanted each year. However, in areas with short or mild winters, it might be possible to overwinter a tomatillo plant and some varieties exhibit better cold-resistance than others. To overwinter a tomatillo plant, reduce watering as cold weather approaches and mulch the plant to a depth of about 2 inches prior to the first cold snap. In advance of expected frost, cover the plant with a frost blanket to reduce the risk of damage. For tomatillo plants grown in containers, move the plant to a sheltered location for overwintering, like a covered porch or an indoor location. Common Pests and Plant Diseases The husk covering the fruit of the tomatillo plants provides a natural defense against pest damage. But if you don’t support the tomatillo plant with a stake or cage and allow it to trail on the ground, fruit in contact with the ground might succumb to damage from slugs or snails.2 The tomatillo plant is subject to many of the same diseases as a tomato plant. Blight and foliar fungal diseases are the chief concern. To offset the chance of developing these issues, be sure to water the plant from the base, rather than soaking the foliage with overhead watering, and prune the plant as needed to promote good airflow.

With bright green leaves and a refreshing flavor, parsley is a must-grow herb. If you want to keep plants productive and healthy, know how to harvest parsley and avoid overharvesting, which can cause plant stress and impaired growth. Whether you grow parsley from seeds or nursery starts, this guide will help you time your parsley harvest to perfection. Learn how to harvest parsley the right way to keep your plants healthy and your kitchen brimming with fresh herbs. When to Harvest Parsley Parsley is typically harvested from spring through fall either as a cut-and-come-again herb or in larger quantities for freezing or drying. However, if plants are grown indoors in pots, parsley can be harvested in winter, too. Fast-growing and adaptable, parsley can be kept in container gardens or larger herb beds and harvested just 70 days after sowing parsley seeds—nursery-started plants can be picked even earlier. Note that harvesting parsley too early can be detrimental to plant health, so it’s best to wait until plants are at least 6” tall and have well-formed leaves with at least 3 leaf segments before harvesting. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! How to Harvest Parsley the Right Way Harvest parsley in the morning. Parsley can technically be harvested at any time of the day, but if you want to get the best flavor out of your plants, pick parsley in the morning before the sun is high overhead. Parsley leaves contain the highest concentration of flavorful oils at this time of the day. Cut or pinch entire stems. Gather the parsley stems you’d like to harvest with one hand and cut or pinch the entire stems off just above the soil line with your fingers or a sharp pair of kitchen shears. Harvesting the entire stem will rejuvenate plants and encourage new growth. Work around the exterior of the plant. Parsley plants produce new leaves towards the center of the plant, so harvest the leaves around the exterior of the plant first. This will refresh the look of your parsley and prevent older leaves from going to waste. Don’t overharvest. Young parsley plants should be harvested sparingly by clipping off just a few stems at a time. Older plants, on the other hand, can be picked a bit more aggressively, but avoid harvesting more than 1/3 of your plant at once. Repeat. Parsley is a fast-growing herb that can be harvested again and again throughout the season as needed for recipes. Established plants can be harvested daily in small quantities, but it’s best to give plants a week or two to recover in between harvests if you gather a lot of parsley stems at once or harvest from young plants. Remember, frequent harvesting encourages parsley plants to produce even more leaves. How to Keep Parsley Growing for Years Parsley is a biennial herb that only grows for two years even with the best of care. As a result, many gardeners grow parsley as an annual and sow new parsley seeds every spring. But, parsley plants can be overwintered and harvested in the spring of their second year if desired. If you’d like to harvest second-year parsley plants, overwinter your parsley indoors or harvest your plants in early fall before the stems die back in cold weather. Outdoor parsley will lie dormant in gardens through winter and begin to grow new leaves in spring, while indoor plants can continue to grow through the winter months. Once parsley starts to produce new leaves in spring, harvest the stems regularly until the plant starts to bolt or flower. When flowering begins, it’s best to harvest the entire plant as bolting changes the flavor of parsley leaves. But if you want to gather parsley seeds for future planting, let your plants flower and gather the dried seeds when the parsley flowers fade.

Mums flower in the fall months, and their prolific blooms make them a staple in many gardens and fall porch displays alike. While they don’t require much upkeep, deadheading is the simple task that will regularly encourage better, more long-lasting blooms in your fall mums. Here’s everything you need to know about deadheading mums, including how to do it, when the best time to deadhead is, and things to avoid. Benefits of Deadheading One common misconception about mums is that they are annuals, often sold in planters during the late summer for autumnal displays. However, with the proper care, mums can return year after year and provide an endless display of fall color. Aside from planting your Chrysanthemum in the ground (versus keeping it in a planter), deadheading is one of the best ways to ensure your plant develops strong growth and establishes itself for overwintering. Regular deadheading provides the following benefits to chrysanthemums: Encourage the plant to produce more blooms, extending the flowering period. Redirect energy from spent blooms to the roots, which helps to establish the plant. Prevent disease by clearing away dead and dying blooms and foliage. When Is the Best Time to Deadhead Mums? Deadheading should take place during the flowering season once blooms are spent. The trick is to deadhead the flowers once the color has faded, not when they have already turned brown and crispy. Waiting for the flowers to dry out means the blooms have already started setting seeds, wasting valuable energy and resources for the plant. Since mums can bloom for up to 10 weeks, deadheading is an ongoing task that should be tackled once every week or two. Luckily, when done regularly, deadheading your plant(s) should only take you a few minutes at a time—a small yet important task. How to Deadhead Mums Using your fingers or a pair of clean garden shears, remove spent blooms a couple of inches below the flower head. This will result in the cut stem being hidden by the plant’s foliage for a more attractive and healthy-looking plant. Repeat this process regularly during the blooming period. Pinching Back vs. Deadheading Mums ‘Pinching back’ (or simply ‘pinching’) and deadheading are not the same thing, although they are often confused with one another. While deadheading involves removing spent blooms from the plant to encourage more prolific flowering, pinching involves removing the growing tip of a shoot or stem to encourage it to branch. It’s a conservative form of pruning that creates a bushier, fuller, and healthier plant. Left to their own devices, mums will grow tall and leggy, so pinching is essential to creating the mounding shape we associate with these fall flowers. Pinching should be done in the spring or early summer once the plant is about six inches tall. Use your fingers to remove any existing buds and non-budded growth tips. Remember that the plant will fork off wherever you pinch, which is how you can control your plant's final size and shape. Pinch your plant every two to four weeks until midsummer, and then stop so it can develop buds and blooms in time for fall.

If you're looking for a low-maintenance, drought-tolerant, long-blooming flower to fill a bed or line a border, coreopsis plants (Coreopsis spp.) are a perfect choice. With over 80 varieties of coreopsis, there's a variety to suit every garden design. These showy, daisy-like flowers don't have much of a scent, but the foliage has an anise-like smell. They are native to North America, growing in upright clumps and flowering throughout the summer. The species' foliage varies, with some varieties boasting large green leaves and others sporting narrower greenery. One of the plant's common names, tickseed, is a nod to its round seeds, which resemble ticks. Plants in the coreopsis species have a moderate growth rate and are best planted in the spring after all risk of frost has passed. This hardy plant's perennial varieties grow in USDA zones 2 through 8, dying back after frost and returning in the spring; in the coldest zones, add a few inches of mulch to protect its underground roots. Annual varieties will start blooming in early summer and repeat bloom periodically through the fall, while perennial varieties will begin blooming the second year after planting from seed. Coreopsis Care Overall, coreopsis plants don't require much care when grown in their preferred environment. Select a planting site with lots of sun and good soil drainage. Also, don't forget to account for the mature size of your species—when planting, leave some space around each plant for air circulation. The taller coreopsis varieties might need staking as they mature; otherwise, the stems might flop over. Moreover, deadheading your plants (removing the spent blooms) can keep the plant blooming throughout summer and into fall. Light Coreopsis plants will grow and bloom best in full sun, which means at least six to eight hours of direct light on most days. They can also grow in partial sun, but the plants might be lankier and not flower as profusely. In climates with very hot summers, some afternoon shade is welcome. Soil These plants thrive in well-draining, loamy or sandy soil with a fairly neutral soil pH. However, most coreopsis varieties are straightforward to grow and aren't particular about soil quality or soil pH as long as they aren't waterlogged. Some of the most profuse blooming comes from coreopsis plants growing on the untamed border of roadways or other "forgotten" areas. Heavy, wet clay soils should be amended with compost to help drainage. Water New coreopsis plants need regular water to keep the soil evenly moist (but not soggy) until they are established. After their first year, these plants have good drought tolerance, but they'll bloom most prolifically with regular watering. Water deeply whenever the soil is dry, about an inch down. Early morning watering is best—it allows the leaves a chance to dry out during the day. Temperature and Humidity Coreopsis plants like warm temperatures between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and 50 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit at night. High humidity levels typically aren't an issue for these plants as long as they have good air circulation and proper watering and drainage. That being said, various species of coreopsis have differing levels of cold tolerance. Fertilizer Fertilizer isn't necessary for coreopsis plants unless you have very poor soil. Too much fertilizer can promote excessive foliage growth at the expense of the plant flowering.1 To boost your plants, you can mix a little compost into the soil at the beginning of spring. Types of Coreopsis There are dozens of species and varieties of coreopsis, which mostly differ in appearance rather than care. Some of the most popular varietals for outdoor cultivation include: Coreopsis grandiflora 'Early Sunrise': A variety with large, semi-double, bright yellow flowers that start blooming in early summer Coreopsis grandiflora 'Golden Showers': A variety with profuse yellow blooms on longer-than-average stems Coreopsis verticillata 'Moonbeam': A variety with buttery yellow flowers and a compact, dense shape Coreopsis rosea 'Nana': A mauve-pink dwarf variety that spreads nicely but lacks drought tolerance Pruning Cutting back the top of a declining perennial to the ground or near ground level will promote vigorous new growth, rejuvenating the plant. To encourage continuous blooming, you can cut back during the growing season, staggering sections of your coreopsis flower patch weekly. Propagating Coreopsis Although perennial coreopsis are resilient plants, they don't tend to live more than three to five years. A decrease in flowering is a good signal that it's time to divide the plants (or to plant some new ones from seed) to propagate them. The best time to divide your plant is the spring or early fall—here's how: First, carefully dig up a clump of a mature plant, leaving the roots as intact as possible. Use a sharp trowel to split the clump into smaller sections, ensuring several healthy roots are present on each section. Replant the sections in a suitable growing site. Keep the new plants well-watered until they're established and show visible signs of growth, which can take several weeks. How to Grow Coreopsis From Seed Many coreopsis varieties can be grown from seed and often will reseed themselves in your garden. Start seeds indoors six to eight weeks before your area's projected last frost date, or directly plant seeds in your garden after your last frost. Plant the seeds roughly 1/2-inch deep, and keep the soil lightly moist and warm. Seedlings should emerge in about two to three weeks, at which point you can put the seedlings by a sunny window and continue to keep the soil lightly moist. Indoor seedlings must be slowly acclimatized to the outdoors by taking them outside for long stretches each day for about a week. Then, they're ready to be planted in the garden. Potting and Repotting Coreopsis Coreopsis can be grown in containers. If you start them in seedling containers, you can size them up and transplant them into larger ones. Coreopsis need containers at least 8 to 10 inches deep and wide with ample drainage holes. This plant's roots do not tolerate soggy, standing water. After several years, if the plant's roots appear to grow out of drainage holes, it's time to divide the plant, as noted in the section about propagation. Once divided, replant the divided part in its container and backfill the rest with fresh soil. Place the container in a spot with at least six to eight hours of full sun. In the hot summer months, give more water than if it's in the ground. Containers heat up, and water evaporates from potting soil much sooner than in-ground plants. Overwintering Coreopsis are hardy plants. You don't have to give these plants winter protection, but if you have the perennial variety that returns annually, you can keep the roots healthy by ensuring the plant receive regular water up until the first frost. Cut back the stems down to the ground. Insulate the roots by layering 2 to 3 inches of mulch at the soil surface. Remove the mulch after the threat of frost is over. Common Pests & Plant Diseases For the most part, coreopsis plants grow problem-free. But they might fall prey to snails, slugs, mildew, and fungal diseases in wet seasons. Before turning to pesticides and fungicides, improve your plant's environment. Ensure it has plenty of air circulation to ward off pests and fungal problems. And note whether it's getting enough sunlight. Divide overgrown clumps where the centers aren't getting much air or light. How to Get Coreopsis to Bloom One of the most critical factors in ensuring your coreopsis blooms each season is planting the flowers in an area with full sun—ample light for at least 6 to 8 hours. If you notice that your plant is struggling to bloom, too much shade may be to blame. If there's not a spot in your landscape that boasts six to eight hours of direct light a day, plant your coreopsis in a pot so you can move it around your lawn occasionally to "chase" the light. It's important to reiterate that coreopsis does not need fertilizer. Giving fertilizer can cause the plant to grow disproportionally, making the plant put all of its energy into developing its stem and leaves and not enough energy into bud production. If your coreopsis could use a boost, add organic matter as compost to the soil instead. Common Problems With Coreopsis Coreopsis is an easy plant to care for. They are occasionally susceptible to bugs and diseases when their environmental factors are managed well. Ensure they get water, sun, and the correct soil when planting them. Yellowing Leaves Yellowing leaves are usually caused by overwatering or insufficient nutrition. Coreopsis does not require fertilizer unless it grows in poor soil; then, it might need a nutritional boost. If your plant has soggy soil, let it dry out before watering again. Instead of putting the plant on a regular watering regimen, only water it when the soil feels dry, about two inches under the surface. The plant may have an iron or magnesium deficiency if you notice yellow patches between leaf veins. With a magnesium deficiency, the leaf's center yellows then the edges turn yellow last. Signs of an iron deficiency can appear as young leaves on tops, and branch tips turn yellow first. A sulfur deficiency is primarily indicated when the newest leaves are entirely yellow. Your plant might have a potassium deficiency if the oldest leaf's edges turn bright yellow, but the leaf center remains green. A nitrogen deficiency causes the yellowing of the older inner leaves first; the rest of the plant shortly follows, moving outwardly with its yellowing. Sunburned Leaves Although coreopsis is a full sun plant, it can still get sunburned if it is indoors as a seedling and then is brought outdoors too suddenly without any acclimatizing. If the leaves suddenly turn yellow, white, or brown, they may have received too much sun too quickly. You can tell apart sunburn from other issues by turning over the leaf and inspecting the underside; sunburn is the likely culprit if it looks green and generally unaffected. Gradually harden off the plants by exposing them to a small amount of direct sun each day before planting them in the ground or bringing their container outdoors permanently.