Lisianthus (Eustoma spp.) are tender perennials or biennials often grown as annuals. They grow about 1 to 3 feet tall, featuring bell-shaped flowers with flaring lobes that bloom on one or more upright stems. Flowers commonly come in white, pink, purple, and cream, and occasionally yellow, apricot, rose, or red. Foliage is dark green, lance-shaped, and slightly fleshy in texture. Lisianthus is in great demand for bridal bouquets and other special occasion arrangements. Starting with seeds, plants take up to six months to flower so most home gardeners start with commercial nursery plants and grow lisianthus as annuals. Lisianthus Care Lisanthus can be somewhat finicky to grow and care for but is worth the effort. They look good in mixed containers and borders and make long-lasting cut flowers. Plant nursery-grown lisianthus seedlings as annuals for best flowering in zones 7 and lower. Plant in organically rich soil with a neutral pH. Provide 6 to 8 hours of sun daily, and warm, dry conditions. Feed regularly with high-phosphorous fertilizer. Deadhead consistently for repeat blooms. Light Plant lisianthus in full sun, where it receives six to eight hours a day. In areas with very hot summers, a little afternoon shade won't hurt but consistent light exposure is key for best flowers and foliage. Soil Lisianthus prefers soil rich in organic matter such as manure, compost, or leaf mold. Soil should be well-draining and not remain waterlogged, which can lead to root rot. Raised beds and containers work well. Lisianthus flowers need a balanced soil pH between 6.5 and 7.0. Soil too acidic or alkaline causes yellowing foliage, less vigor, and fewer blooms. Water Provide about 1 inch of water per week to keep plants moist but not soggy allowing soil to dry out slightly in between. Overwatering leads to fungal diseases. Timing can be a challenge which makes drip irrigation a preferred method for establishing a consistent watering schedule. Temperature and Humidity Lisianthus prefers warm environments, thriving in temperatures between 60°F and 75°F. They tolerate drought but suffer in high humidity. It's only hardy in zones 8 and higher; lower than that, and lisianthus tends to be grown as an annual. It may survive temperatures as low as 28°F. Fertilizer Feed lisianthus regularly with flower fertilizer that has one and a half times the amount of phosphorous as nitrogen. Apply it according to package directions throughout the plant's growing season. A constant nutrient stream is necessary to produce well-branched plants with abundant blossoms. Types of Lisianthus Lisianthus varieties are distinguished by color and size with most blooming in summer. New cultivars are being introduced that continue to bloom into autumn. 'Balboa': This variety features more than a dozen flowers per plant, all in shades of blue. 'Flamenco': A heat-tolerant single flowered series in rose pink, white, and yellow. 'Maurine': A semi-dwarf, heat-tolerant variety perfect for containers on your deck and patio. Sapphire Pink Rim': Compact (5 to 6 inches tall) with white blooms and pink edges. 'Echo Blue': This tall variety (up to 34 inches) has dark blue flowers and blooms from midsummer up to frost. Pruning Proper pruning of summer bloomers can yield a second flush of flowers in autumn. Start by cutting stems back to the basal rosette after the initial bloom. Then pamper plants with regular irrigation and fertilizer and keep them free of weeds. Look for a second flowering around mid-September. Propagating Lisianthus In warm-winter zones where lisianthus is perennial, it is sometimes propagated by dividing the root ball in winter. You need a shovel, a sharp cutting tool, and a trowel. Cut back the stems and foliage to just above ground level. Dig up the entire plant with a shovel, keeping as many roots as possible including the long tap root. Divide the root ball into sections with a knife or trowel. Include some greenery or buds in each section. Immediately replant the pieces at the same level as in their original location and water thoroughly. New growth should begin within a few weeks. How to Grow Lisianthus From Seed Lisanthus grown from seed takes 5 to 6 months to reach mature flowering stage. In zones 7 and lower, start seeds indoors in late fall. In zones 8 and higher, seeds can be directly sown in the garden in late summer for bloom the following spring. You need trays or small pots, seed starter mix, plastic coverings, grow lights, potting soil, and general-purpose fertilizer. Prep seed trays. Fill trays or small pots with moistened seed starter. Scatter seeds. Scatter seed on the soil surface. Cover trays and keep warm. Cover with plastic wrap and set trays or pots under grow lights. Provide 16 hours of light daily and temperatures between 70°F and 75°F. Move grow lights closer and feed. Once the seeds sprout, remove the plastic and keep grow lights about one inch above the tops of seedlings. Maintain temperature between 60°F and 75°F, feed weekly with a general-purpose fertilizer at half strength, and do not allow soil to dry out. Transplant seedlings. At seven or eight weeks, transplant seedlings into a regular potting mix. Keep the temperature below 75°F, or the seedlings can go into dormancy. Continue with regular watering and fertilizing. Harden off and place outside. At around five months plants should be around 4 inches tall and can be hardened off for transplant into the garden once the danger of frost has passed. Potting & Repotting Lisianthus Shorter varieties grow well in containers filled with ordinary potting medium. Colors combine well in mixed containers with dianthus, coreopsis, baby's breath, and snapdragons. In zones where they remain outdoors as perennials, plants require annual repotting, going up one pot size each time. Plant nursery starts or plugs 3 to 4 inches apart in containers deep enough to accommodate the root ball. Taller varieties require deeper pots and may require staking. Tight placement allows plants to support each other. Terracotta and clay pots are good material choices. Overwintering In zones where lisianthus is perennial, cut back faded flower stalks for continued blooms and reduce feeding during winter months. Zone 7 is transitional where plants may survive if cut back to ground level and covered with a light mulch until spring. Though challenging, some gardeners find it possible to keep potted lisianthus growing indoors and flowering through winter. The trick is giving them enough bright light, controlled temperatures, and preventing common indoor pests such as mites and fungus gnats. Feed monthly with a weak diluted fertilizer. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Fungus gnats are a common pest of lisianthus, and first appear in the seedling stage. Larvae live beneath the soil, feed heavily on roots, and can devastate plants. Avoid overwatering and treat affected plants with a mild insecticide or neem oil. Apply neem oil in cases of spider mite infestation. Lisianthus are susceptible to plant viruses and stem cankers. Affected plants must be removed and discarded. How to Get Lisianthus to Bloom Finicky about growing conditions and care, lisianthus are highly valued as cut flowers with a long vase life. Bloom Months Bloom periods depend on climate and variety but in most areas plants flower in June and July with some types putting out a second flush in September or October. How Long Does Lisianthus Bloom? Each plant produces multiple flowers. From opening of the first bud to when the last flower fades can take between two and four weeks. What Do Lisianthus Flowers Look and Smell Like? Lisianthus flowers can be single or double. Compact varieties are as small as 5 to 6 inches in height, while taller varieties can reach 3 feet. Blossoms are often compared to roses and peonies with multiple petals but lisianthus have no fragrance. How to Encourage More Blooms Regular feeding and watering along with adequate light are necessary for abundant blooms. Deadhead spent flowers to encourage more blooms. Caring for Lisianthus After it Blooms In growing zones where lisianthus is perennial, cut plants back to the leaves radiating around the base of the plant after the initial bloom. In zone 7, you can try cutting back and mulching to keep lisianthus alive through the colder season. Deadheading Lisianthus Flowers Deadhead lisianthus flowers by cutting flower stems at the point where they emerge from two sets of leaves. Common Problems With Lisianthus Lack of full flowering is the most common problem but several other issues make lisianthus challenging to grow. Plants Topple Over Long stems are often too thin to support double-bloom varieties. Look for grow-through support rings or grids and other decorative stakes. Cut Flowers Don't Last Lisianthus can last up to four weeks as cut flowers. Harvest early in the day using sharp scissors to cut just above the basal leaves. Remove leaves below the waterline and trim stem bottoms before placing in the vase. Refresh water every two to three days.

Knowing how to propagate basil means always having a fresh supply for your kitchen all year long, no matter where you live. Dozens of varieties of this highly aromatic and versatile herb (Ocimum basilicum) exist and it's not difficult to keep your favorite going even during the off-season. Here's what you need to know to successfully propagate basil. Ways to Propagate Basil There are three ways to propagate basil: from cuttings in water, from cuttings in soil, and from seed. Basil is a warm season herb most often started from seed in early spring or planted directly into the garden once soil has warmed to between 50°F and 70°F. It germinates well and grows easily from seed, but to keep it going throughout the cool season, you'll need to propagate with cuttings from your mature, summer grown basil. The Best Way to Propagate Basil From Cuttings If you've ever kept freshly cut basil stems in water for use in cooking, as needed, you may have noticed that after a week or so, the stems begin to put out new roots. Essentially you have propagated the basil cuttings in water. Propagating basil in water is easy and requires little more than refreshing and topping up the water regularly. To grow new basil plants this way you need a sharp sterile snipper, clean water, and a clear glass, vase or container. Take several 4-inch cuttings from a mature basil plant, avoiding any stems with flowers at the top. Make your cuts below a set of leaves of leaf nodes. Remove all but the top two sets of leaves from the cutting. Fill a clear glass with water. Water that has not been chemically treated (i.e., distilled water or rainwater) works best. Submerge the stems, keeping the top leaves above water level. Place the glass on or close to a sunny windowsill where it receives plenty of bright, indirect light and warm temperatures. Change water weekly or more often if it begins to get cloudy. You should see roots begin to form in 12 to 18 days. How to Propagate Basil in Soil Propagating basil cuttings in soil is similar to propagating in water. Both methods are simple and usually successful. Gather together a sharp, sterile snipper, deep pots with drainage holes, potting soil, and plastic covering. Growth hormone is optional. Fill a pot or pots with slightly moistened planting medium. High grade potting soil works well. You can start several cuttings in a large 6-inch pot or plant individual cuttings in smaller 4-inch pots. Using the snipper, take 4-inch cuttings from a mature basil plant, avoiding any stems that have flowers on them. Make your cuts below a set of leaves or leaf nodes. Remove all but the top two sets of leaves. Dip the bottoms of the cuttings in growth hormone. This step is optional since most cuttings root easily without it. Use your index finger to poke narrow, deep holes in the potting soil. Insert a cutting into each hole making sure to keep the top leaves well above the soil surface. Tamp soil down around each cutting to keep it upright. Water thoroughly. Cover the pot loosely with plastic and use a small stake or pencil to keep the plastic from touching the cutting. Place pot(s) in a location that receives plenty of bright, indirect light and warm temperatures. Keep soil moist but not soggy. Remove plastic for an hour or so daily to allow air circulation and prevent mold. As soon as new leaves emerge, remove plastic and check to see if the cutting has rooted. If a gentle tug results in resistance, your basil cutting has roots. This usually occurs in two to four weeks.

Even in northern climates, homeowners can grow some of the most popular fruit trees in their own backyards, including pear, peach, plum, cherry, and apple trees. But for success in growing fruit trees, you will need to plan carefully and maintain them properly. Good planning will take into consideration the mature height of the tree so that it does not interfere with buildings, power lines, etc. Ensuring full sun and good drainage are two other aspects of sound site election. Once you have planted your fruit tree, supplying it with sufficient irrigation and fertilizer are two of the more important maintenance tasks. In this article, you will learn why, when, and how to fertilize fruit trees. Why Fertilize Fruit Trees? There are three reasons to fertilize fruit trees: For superior quantity in fruit production For superior quality in fruit production For the overall growth and health of the tree When to Fertilize Your Fruit Tree Getting the timing right is very important when fertilizing fruit trees: The best time to fertilize fruit trees is in spring. Wait until about a week before the last frost date for your region. Fertilizing before that may result in a spurt of growth that will only be damaged by the frost. If you forget to fertilize in spring, the second best time to fertilize is in early summer. The worst time that you can fertilize fruit trees is in late summer or early fall. Fertilizing at this time would only promote new growth that will be killed when cold temperatures return. Do not fertilize a fruit tree at the same time as you are planting it. Wait till 3 weeks after planting , then you can lightly fertilize it with a chemical fertilizer. If you want to be ultra-careful, fertilize it with compost, instead.1 If your apple tree or pear tree is mature enough that it is bearing fruit, apply boron to it every three years.2 Have Your Soil Tested To have a soil test performed, you must obtain a small sample of the soil from around the base of your fruit tree. While you can perform the test at home, beginners may prefer to send the sample to their local county extension for a test. The pH level for fruit trees should be between 6 and 6.5. How to Fertilize Your Fruit Tree Don't think that effectively fertilizing a fruit tree is as easy as opening up a bag of fertilizer and pouring some out. Set aside a bit of time so that you can do the job right: Remove grass and weeds from around the tree: If you have any weeds (or grass) growing around your fruit tree, remove them. They will steal some of the fertilizer you will be putting down from your fruit tree. Clear away mulch: If you currently have any mulch around your tree, rake it away to expose the soil surface. For your safety: Wear gloves and goggles. Some fertilizers can irritate the skin or eyes. Obtain the fertilizer: Fertilizers with an NPK of 10-10-10 are widely used for fertilizing fruit trees. Granulated types are easier to work with than others. You don't need to use chemical fertilizers: Organic fertilizers are perfectly acceptable, as long as you are having your soil tested regularly to ensure that it has the nutrients your fruit trees need. Determine how much to apply: Measure the diameter of the fruit tree's trunk. This figure will be used to calculate how much fertilizer to use. Apply 1 pound of fertilizer for every inch of diameter. Common sense comes into play, too: The tree's performance will let you know if you are not using enough. Err on the side of too little. Using too much fertilizer may result in excessive vegetation, which causes the center of the tree to be shaded. The result can be disease (from too little air circulation) and reduced fruit production. Apply the fertilizer: One reason granulated fertilizers are easier to work with is you do not have to mix them with water to apply them. Broadcast the granulated 10-10-10 fertilizer evenly, starting 1 to 2 feet away from the trunk and ending where the tips of the branches extend to (the "drip line"). Rake the fertilizer: Gently rake the fertilizer into the soil. Mulch your fruit tree: Put back the mulch (if any) that you had raked away from the tree. Add new garden mulch to this. Aim to create a 3-inch layer of mulch in all. Keep the mulch 6 inches to a foot away from the base of the tree, depending on the size of the tree. Mulch will not only suppress weeds but also conserve moisture and regulate soil temperature. Water: Water the area so that the fertilizer will sink into the ground.

While its feathery foliage has a delicate appearance, dill is easy to grow and care for, and is an excellent addition to any garden. In addition to providing bright, fresh flavor for your dishes, dill plants also attract a host of beneficial insects such as ladybugs, green lacewings, and syrphid flies—all of which prey on aphids. To keep your dill plant happy and healthy, it's important to regularly prune it. This will will help it grow bushier and fuller, promote new grow, and ultimately lead to a more abundant dill harvest. Before You Get Started No matter what method you use to prune your dill plant, it's important to keep these guidelines in mind. Wait for the dill plant to have at least five leaves or until the plant is at least six inches tall, somewhere between four to eight weeks after planting. As with other herbs, you should never trim more than one third of the entire plant. To prevent over-pruning, allow the plant to recover and regrow to its previous size before pruning again. If you prune down a stem without leaving any fronds (leaf sets), the stem will not grow more dill. If you want the dill plant to continue growing its green foliage, pinch off any flower buds that form. Flowering is a sign that the plant is ready to reproduce and nearing the end of its life. Every part of the dill plant is edible, including the seeds, stems, and flowers. How to Prune Dill for Growth If you're growing dill to use in your kitchen, pruning the plant can play a vital role in its yield. Regularly pruning away leaves from the top of the plant will encourage bushier growth—and give you fresh herbs to cook with. I've found this is the best method to use for a bountiful dill harvest you can enjoy all season long. I follow this process when I need a few leaves to garnish a dish or salad with. I just run out back to my vegetable garden, pluck off a small handful of dill leaves, and bring them back into the kitchen to finish up. Find a tender stem with mature growth. Follow the tops of the fronds (dill leaves) to the previous leaf set. You'll want to prune right above it, leaving some leaves in tact for the stem to continue to produce leaves. Using a clean pair of pruning shears, snip off the dill leaves from that top part of the stem. You can also use your thumb and forefinger to pinch the leaves off. How to Prune Dill for Storage If your goal is to harvest large amounts of dill for drying, freezing, or preserving, then you'll want to prune away much of the dill plant. Because the goal is no longer to encourage growth, you can cut the leaves, stems, and all. Dill is an annual plant and will need to be replanted the following year. This is the pruning method I follow at the end of the growing season, when the dill plant is lush and full but doesn't have flowers blooming yet. Spray the dill plant with water one day before harvesting it. This will help clear it of dirt and ensure the plant has moisture for the freshest harvest possible. Using a pair of scissors or pruning shears, cut it at the base of the stem, pruning the whole plant away. Place the stems in a glass of water like you would flowers. If you plan to dry the dill, combine the dill stems into small bundles and hang them upside down to dry for one to two weeks. How to Prune Dill for Seed-Saving If you are growing a dill plant for its seeds, then you need to allow the plant to flower in order to harvest them. You can increase your seed crop by selectively pruning the leaves, forcing the plant to send all nutrients and energy to the seed-producing flowers. In order to collect seeds, you want to encourage the dill plant to flower. Regularly prune the top leaves, making sure to leave the main stems intact. Wait for your dill plant to start producing small yellow flowers. Allow the flowers to fully mature. The seeds are ready to be harvested when the follows are brown and completely dried on the plant. To collect the seeds, secure a paper bag over the flower heads and shake them. Once you are finished harvesting seeds, trim back the stems that held the flowers.