On-point planting times are important to make the most of your vegetable plot. What you plant and when depends on your hardiness zone, garden conditions, and what else you are growing or have been growing in your plot—never underestimate the importance of crop rotation and the right companion plants to help prevent diseases. To help get you started, we’ve offered some month-by-month suggestions for when you should plant vegetables and what types based on your USDA hardiness zones. January You can start sowing seeds of cool-season vegetables outdoors or in cold frames in warmer hardiness zones. In the colder zones, you’ll need to start the seeds now indoors (and, in some cases, under lights) and transfer them outside once the soil warms up. Always check your expected last frost dates. In the meantime, it’s a good time to prepare empty parts of the garden for planting. Clear the plot, work compost into the soil, and apply any required amendments following a soil test. Zone 1 to 3: Carrots, kohlrabi, head lettuce, leaf lettuce (start all seeds indoors) Zones 4-6: Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, leeks, onions (start all seeds indoors) Zones 7-12: Spinach, radishes, arugula, fennel, carrots, beets, turnips (all direct sow outdoors) February Raised beds are a good idea if you are planting outdoors at this time of year—they can help protect your seeds from the hardest frosts. Zones 1-3: Onions and celery (start indoors and possibly under lights) Zones 4-6: Broccoli, celery, leeks, onions (start indoors and possibly under lights) Zones 7-12: Cold-hardy lettuce, radishes, spinach, turnips, and peas (all direct sow outdoors) March Now is the time to harden off seedlings to transplant them outdoors. It’s also when you start to have more options for what you can directly sow in the ground. Zone 1-3: Beets, broccoli, cabbage, kale, lettuce, spinach (best to start seeds indoors) Zones 4-6: Beets, cabbage, cress, lettuce, tomatoes, basil, cilantro, peas Zones 7-12: Beans, capsicums, celery, squash, sweet potatoes, lemon balm, hyssop April You can get caught out by late heavy frosts at this time of year in some regions, so consider starting seeds under the protection of cloches or plastic tunnels. Zone 1-3: Arugula, beets, broccoli, chives, peas, collard greens Zones 4-6: Onions, peas, radishes, lettuce, spinach, leeks, parsnips (consider plastic tunnel protection) Zones 7-12: Beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, celery, spinach, Swiss chard, sage May May is often one of the busiest months for planting vegetables. Tender warm-season crops can often be sown outdoors. However, as the weather warms up, take measures to control weeds and garden pests, such as spider mites, aphids, and cutworms. Zone 1-3: Cucumbers, pumpkins, lettuce Zones 4-6: Cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, tomatoes, eggplants, capsicums, cucumbers Zones 7-12: Celery, sweet corn, okra, capsicums, pumpkins, pole beans, Swiss chard June You are spoilt for choice when it comes to what to plant in June. If you are doing succession planting, you may even be sowing your second batch of seeds for some vegetables, like fast-growing lettuce or radishes. Zone 1-3: Peas, kale, chard, arugula, lettuce Zones 4-6: Beans, Brussels sprouts, carrots, cress, leeks, spinach, zucchini, oregano Zones 7-12: Eggplants, capsicums, tomatoes, cucumbers, marrows, sweet corn July July is one of the busiest months. You can be planning your fall vegetable garden and tending to your summer harvests. You’ll also want to water deeply and infrequently to promote a flavorful crop. Zone 1-3: Kale, lettuce, radishes, carrots, cabbage, peas, beans Zones 4-6: Chicory, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, spinach, turnips, parsley Zones 7-12: Beans, broccoli, capsicums, leeks, eggplants, lettuce, basil August There is a wide range of vegetables you can plant in August. It’s also time to prepare your soil for planting cool-season crops over the next couple of months. Deep watering should also continue to avoid drought stress. Zone 1-3: Cabbage, broccoli, spinach, radishes, chives, dill Zones 4-6: Brussels sprouts, carrots, chicory, spring onions, spinach, broad beans Zones 7-12: Beets, mustard, onions, parsnips, eggplants, leeks September Even if you select fast-growing crops to squeeze in an extra harvest, always check your average first frost date when planting in September. You want to avoid harsh weather killing off your crops. Zone 1-3: Spinach, kale, radishes, carrots, lettuce, broccoli, cauliflower Zones 4-6: Cabbage, leeks, cress, radishes, spinach, turnips, chicory, parsley Zones 7-12: Beets, cabbage, mustard, peas, spring onions, cilantro October Investing in protective cloches and plastic tunnels can help you extend your vegetable harvest season around this time of year. Now is also the time to consider whether you want to introduce a winter cover crop, such as clover or winter rye. These non-edibles can protect the soil from erosion and add nutrients back into the depleted soil. Zone 1-3: Garlic, peas, kale, lettuce, carrots, beets Zones 4-6: Leeks, lettuce, onions, radishes, spinach, broad beans Zones 7-12: Beets, cabbage, cress, lettuce, spring onions, peas, dill, lemon November In the colder regions, direct planting even the most winter-hardy vegetables isn’t the best idea as they are unlikely to survive the harsh temperatures. If you are closing your vegetable garden for the winter, now is the time to add organic matter to the soil and cover it in an insulating and moisture-retaining layer of mulch. Zone 1-3: Spinach, lettuce, carrots, beets (start indoors) Zones 4-6: Cress, shallots, spinach, lettuce (best sown in cold frames) Zones 7-12: Cabbage, kale, radishes, spinach, mustard, parsley, leaf lettuce December It’s the hard freezes you have to watch out for in the dead of winter, not an insulating layer of snow. Still, it’s best to plant cool-season vegetables cautiously in the zones with the hardest winters. Zone 1-3: Garlic, kale, spinach, carrots Zones 4-6: Onions, peas, cress, spinach, garlic Zones 7-12: Asparagus, broad beans, spinach, mustard, shallots, onions, cress

Yellowing green bean leaves are not always cause for concern—they can sometimes be a natural sign of aging in bean plants. But if you see leaves on green beans turning yellow mid-season, or if your plants are becoming less productive, it could be due to fungal, bacterial, or environmental stressors. Here are 6 common reasons why bean leaves turn yellow, plus simple, organic solutions to help your plants recover. Watering Stress Underwatering and overwatering can cause yellowing bean leaves, making it difficult to know exactly what’s going on with your plants. The best way to determine if your plants receive too much or too little water is to insert your finger into the soil. If the soil feels soggy and you haven’t watered recently, your plants are likely overwatered and root rot may be settling in. How to Fix Beans should receive about 1 inch of water per week. If you often forget to water, apply a layer of mulch around the base of your plants to keep the soil from drying out too quickly, and consider installing an automated drip irrigation system. If your plants are overwatered, adjust your watering schedule, scrape the mulch away from around your plant, and allow the soil to dry out before watering again. Lighting Issues Beans need at least 8 hours of direct light daily to grow. In low-light conditions, beans may develop yellowing leaves, but too much bright light can cause yellowing leaves, too. How to Fix Beans are difficult to transplant once established, but you can avoid lighting stress by choosing a growing spot that receives 8 to 10 hours of daily light. Nutrient Deficiencies Although beans fix nitrogen, they can still suffer from nutritional deficiencies in poor soil. Nutrient deficiencies produce different symptoms depending on what nutrients are missing; however, most deficiencies result in stunted plant growth and yellowing leaves with visible, green veins. How to Fix Testing your soil every few years and adding an annual application of compost is the best way to avoid plant nutrient deficiencies. You may also want to fertilize beans with an all-purpose fertilizer, adjust the pH of alkaline soils, and apply a legume inoculant to bean seeds before planting. Inoculants boost nitrogen fixation and make it easier for beans to absorb nutrients. Plant Diseases Diseases caused by bacteria, fungi, and viruses can produce yellowing bean leaves and other symptoms. Bacterial blight usually produces brown leaf spots with yellow halos. Bean mosaic virus may develop cupped or puckered leaves with a mottled yellow mosaic pattern. Fungal issues, like white mold and bean rust, may also produce leaf spots and yellow lesions, especially in overcrowded gardens. How to Fix Purchasing disease-resistant seeds from reliable seed companies can keep some plant diseases out of your garden. However, you can also reduce diseases by rotating crops, watering beans at the soil line, weeding regularly, following proper spacing guidelines, and destroying infested plant material at the end of the season. Pests While pests can cause yellowing leaves through the spread of plant diseases, sap-sucking pests may also directly cause yellowing leaves by feeding on plant sap. Pest damage typically presents as tiny dots or speckles on affected leaves, but pests may also skeletonize or chew holes in bean leaves. How to Fix Aphids, thrips, bean beetles, and spider mites are some of the most common bean pests, but these pests can be controlled with handpicking, organic soap sprays, and companion planting. Strongly scented herbs and flowers, like marigolds and nasturtiums, are especially good companion plants for natural pest control. Natural Processes While pests, diseases, and environmental stresses can cause bean leaves to yellow, aging bean plants may also develop yellowing leaves at the end of the growing season. Yellowing leaves caused by natural aging usually occur towards the base of the plant, and leaf yellowing may be exacerbated by cool temperatures. How to Fix Yellowing leaves that occur late in the growing season are a part of the natural aging process of bean plants and they signal that bean plants are reaching the end of their life. There is no need to address yellowing leaves caused by natural aging; however, you may be able to extend your bean growing season a little longer by installing season extension products, like row covers. 3 Additional Tips to Grow Great Green Beans If you want your bean plants to be even more productive, try out these quick and easy bean care tips! Trellising. Bush-type beans don’t need trellises, but pole and vining beans grow better with support. Cattle panel trellises are one of the best solutions if you want to grow lots of beans together, but you can also make DIY bean supports with bamboo poles or upcycled tomato cages. Spacing. To avoid fungal issues and other plant diseases, space bean plants at least 6 inches apart in rows that are at least 18 to 24 inches from each other. Harvesting. Regularly harvesting beans will make plants more productive, but don’t tug on bean pods when you harvest. Instead, pinch or cut bean pods off the plant so you don’t accidentally damage tender stems.

Lenten rose (Helleborus x hybridus) is not a rose; it's a perennial hybrid hellebore belonging to the buttercup family. The name origin of "Lenten rose" refers to the plant's bloom season, which is around the Christian season of Lent that falls in late winter, and its rose-like flower buds. Lenten rose thrives in partial sun to shady conditions. Plant it in moist, neutral-to-alkaline, rich soil with good drainage. Lenten rose cannot tolerate high temperatures. Lenten rose is toxic to humans and pets. Lenten Rose Care Lenten rose is one of the easiest plants to grow. Here are the main requirements: Plant Lenten rose in early fall or spring in partial to full shade, keeping them sheltered from harsh winter winds. Keep the soil moist, but don't let Lenten rose plant roots get soggy; mulch in early winter. Protect Lenten rose plants from deep freezes. Feed regularly with fertilizer or amend the soil occasionally with organic matter. Light One of the best perennials for shade, hellebores will retain their vibrant sepals and foliage in shady locations. An ideal location for Lenten rose is under the canopy of a deciduous tree, which provides shade in the summer but allows plants to receive sunlight in winter when the trees drop their leaves. They do best when they receive sun in winter but full to partial shade in summer. Soil This early spring bloomer prefers evenly moist, well-draining, fertile soil. Enrich the soil with compost to improve the vigor of the plants or fertilize them with manure tea. Water Hellebores prefer evenly moist but not constantly wet soil; soggy soil can invite disease. Provide enough water to keep the soil moist during prolonged periods of hot and dry weather, but Lenten rose can tolerate dry conditions once established. If no rain is in the forecast, you can expect new plants to need about an inch of water per week. Temperature and Humidity Although its foliage is evergreen, Lenten rose can become scorched and tattered in extremely harsh winters. The plants will need winter protection to keep them safe during deep freezes. Lenten rose requires shade if you live in a zone with intensely hot, sunny summers. It likes constant moisture and grows well in humid climates. Fertilizer Regularly amending your soil with organic matter is enough for a single specimen hellebore. However, for larger plants or a cluster of multiple plants, lightly fertilize with a slow-release, balanced fertilizer in late winter as new foliage emerges. If using liquid fertilizer, ensure it doesn't splash on the foliage because it can burn the leaves. If you accidentally splash some on the plant, use a steady stream of water to wash it off. Types of Lenten Rose Lenten rose cultivars produce blooms in various colors, but the basic plant form is identical. Other hellebore species are similar to the Lenten rose. 'Red Lady': Upward-facing, single-petal flowers with a deep red hue or white with a pink blush. 'Mrs. Betty Ranicar': Abundant snow-white double-petal blooms. 'Windcliff Double Pink': Stunning double pink flowers and mounded foliage. Helleborus niger: Commonly known as Christmas rose, this species produces white flowers, sometimes flushed with pink, that appear at Christmas time in warmer regions or in midwinter in colder climates. Helleborus argutifolius: Commonly known as the Corsican hellebore, it grows along roadsides in Corsica and Sardinia and is known for its coarse but bold evergreen foliage and pale green blooms. Pruning Allow the healthy evergreen foliage to remain on the plant throughout winter. The leaves are dark green, glossy, and look hand-like with fingers. In warmer climates, it is evergreen but will drop its leaves in colder winter climates. Remove old, scorched, damaged, or dead leaves from the plant before the plant is in bloom (usually late winter to early spring). Remove any browned and ragged foliage at its base during the growing season. When the flowers have started to brown at their tips, cut them back to the bottom of the plant. After blooming, prune Lenten rose flowering stems to their base to encourage new foliage growth. Propagating Lenten Rose Lenten rose is among the easiest plants to propagate. You can cultivate more plants through division. The best time to divide mature plants is in spring. A mature plant is about three years old and has flowered in the past. Division can make flowering more vigorous for the upcoming blooming season. Transplanted sections can develop into blooming plants in the first season, but some might not and might need the span of a growing season to recover from the shock of the division. Also, divided plants will likely bloom at least one year sooner than plants grown from seed. To propagate by division: Find a container or shady spot in your landscape or garden, a sterilized knife, and moistened, enriched, well-draining potting soil. Dig up a plant clump and divide it by cutting off a piece of the plant with a healthy root section and vigorous above-ground stems. Replant the division or place the container in a shady location. Water lightly a day or two after planting and keep moist. How to Grow Lenten Rose From Seed Lenten rose produces its seeds in the late spring. You can save seeds collected from faded flower heads for planting in summer or the following spring. Although Lenten rose is not considered invasive, if you don't deadhead its faded flowers, it can reseed, self-sow, and spread to fill an area. Their attractive foliage makes them a gorgeous ground cover. Expect Lenten rose to naturalize under the right conditions. To sow seeds, prepare an area in a shady garden bed or prepare a container with moistened, enriched potting soil. Scatter seeds on the soil surface and gently press them into the soil. Seeds must be in complete contact with the soil but do not bury them. These seeds need sunlight to germinate. Moisten the seed and soil surface. Keep the soil evenly moist, and do not let it dry out. Seeds will germinate over the winter. If not sown immediately after collecting, Lenten rose seeds require a stratification period of at least three weeks of cold for the seeds to germinate. To artificially re-create these conditions, place the seeds in a clear bag and store the bag in a refrigerator for three weeks. Overwintering Although cold-tolerant, this plant needs protection from harsh, cold winds. If the plant is exposed with no windbreak, protect the plants from cold winds with a light fabric covering or cold frame. Otherwise, it can tolerate freezing temperatures. Usually, plants grown in containers need more protection than in-ground Lenten roses. Also, in the colder regions, provide a few inches of winter mulch, which you should remove before they bloom. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Lenten rose is a deer-resistant plant, but they are occasionally susceptible to leaf spot and crown rot. Use preventative fungicides early in the growing season to reduce fungal infections. Proper spacing will also help prevent fungal diseases from spreading among plants. Lenten rose is relatively pest-free; occasional slugs or snails are the most significant threats. How to Get Lenten Rose to Bloom Lenten rose can be planted in early fall or late spring and have a lengthy bloom period. When growing a plant from seed, do not expect plants to produce blooms in the first year. It can take two or more growing seasons before flowers appear. Also, if you transplanted or divided your Lenten rose, it might not bloom for a year or two after that division. To encourage blooming, spread a bit of compost around the plant or a light dose of fertilizer in the early spring. Also, if the plant is being grown in a container, make sure the plant is not rootbound. Bloom Months Lenten rose usually blooms in February and stays in bloom until April. How Long Does Lenten Rose Bloom? Once they start blooming in winter, Lenten rose tends to stay in bloom for about eight to ten weeks. What Do Lenten Rose Flowers Look and Smell Like? Lenten rose is available in many varieties with different flower colors. The flowers have five petals that come together to form a cup shape. There are also several new double-flowering and bicolor varieties. These flowers have very little fragrance and are not particularly well-liked for their scent. Caring for Lenten Rose After It Blooms After Lenten rose finishes blooming, it does not require any unusual care. You may want to save seeds at this time or consider deadheading the plant. Deadheading Lenten Rose Deadheading Lenten rose will not encourage it to bloom further but will prevent it from self-seeding. Deadhead the spent flowers if you don't want the plant to spread in your garden. Common Problems With Lenten Rose Lenten rose is one of those plants that you can plant and forget about. If you situate it in the right spot, this plant can do the rest—and last for years. However, fungus can be a problem. Black Marks on Foliage and Stunted Growth If you notice black patches on the foliage or flowers, it could be the black death virus. This disease makes plants look stunted or deformed; plants will develop black streaks and netting patterns. As the name implies, this disease is deadly. Destroy this plant; it's not salvageable and can spread to other nearby plants. Aphids or whiteflies can spread it. Apply horticultural oil to any plant with those insects to keep the virus away from your other plants. Dry, Brown Blotches on Foliage Botrytis is a fungus that favors cooler, wet weather. It's also called gray mold. It starts as water-soaked spots on leaves and stems and evolves to form dry, brown blotches. The disease can attack the flowers in severe cases, making them unsightly and short-lived. To prevent the fungus from affecting your plant, ensure adequate spacing between plants; crowding breeds fungal issues, as does soil that is too soggy or impaired by poor drainage. To treat the condition, spread 1/2 inch of lime chips around the base of the entire plant. Yellowing Leaves Your evergreen plant might develop yellowed leaves during hot summers or harsh winters. Lenten roses can tolerate extreme temperatures but might not rebound immediately and will reflect their stress by yellowing their leaves or refusing to bloom. To encourage regrowth, trim off dead or dying leaves.

Determining when to pick bell peppers depends on which variety you grew, but expect to wait 60-90 days to harvest. If you start the peppers from seed, they can take closer to 90-150 days to harvest. But we promise, it's worth the wait! These warm-season vegetables, from the time you plant until they are ready to pick, take longer than almost all other garden crops. Other influencing factors include temperature, water, soil composition, and pest control. Read on to learn when your bell peppers are ready to pick. 3 Signs Your Bell Peppers Are Ready to Harvest Peppers are 3-4 inches long. Most standard-size bell peppers mature at 3- to 4-inches long and wide with a blocky shape. Some giant varieties grow a bit larger, while others (like pimento peppers) may be tapered at the bottom. Fruits are weighty. All peppers should feel solid, slightly heavy, and firm to the touch with just a slight give when pressed with your thumb. Color blushes from top to bottom. Color should be uniform throughout with a glossy appearance. 5 Top Tips for Harvesting Bell Peppers Bell peppers come in a rainbow of colors other than green including red, orange, yellow, purple, white, and brown. As a general rule of thumb, differently colored peppers take longer to mature than green bell peppers. Follow these tips for the best pepper harvest: Pick green peppers anytime, but leave them on the vine another two to three weeks for a sweeter pepper with a richer color. Green peppers that have started to turn will continue to ripen and change color after picking if set out in a cool, dark location for several days. Ripening off the vine, though, can result in loss of sweetness and flavor. Don't try to pull peppers off the plant. Use a snipper or pruner to clip fruits and leave a good amount of stem attached. Harvest peppers right away when they show signs of insect damage or sun-scald. The undamaged portion is still edible. Remove any soft or mushy fruits and dispose of them. This directs energy into maturing viable fruits. How to Harvest Bell Peppers Peppers on each plant ripen at different times over several weeks. You may find one ripe pepper on your plant or several ready to harvest at once. Here's how to pick your peppers. When the recommended "days to harvest: approaches, check plants daily for mature fruit. Pick peppers on a dry day or in the morning after dew has dried. Working in wet plants can damage foliage or spread disease. Remove ripe peppers from the plant by supporting the pepper in your nondominant hand and using your dominant hand to clip the stem where it attaches to the branch. Use an appropriate cutting tool and never pull on the fruit or the branch. Pepper branches can break easily. Peppers without stems should be used right away. Store harvested peppers in the refrigerator crisper drawer for up to two weeks in mesh or plastic bags. Add a dry paper towel to plastic bags and leave bags open to prevent accumulation of moisture.