Love or hate the taste, cilantro is a popular addition to many cuisines. If you're growing cilantro you have probably had the problem of it bolting easily, which simply means that the plant sends up a flower stalk and goes to seed. Since cilantro is a cool-season herb, warming temperatures will signal to the plant that it's time to flower and go to seed rather than continue producing leaves. It's very sensitive to warmer temperatures, so if you're seeing signs of flowering, that's likely why. Bolting is the plant is doing what comes naturally, but you can slowly down the bolting with these some growing tips. Learn more ahead about cilantro bolting. Why Does Cilantro Bolt? Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum) is a short-lived annual, cool-season herb.1 Once temperatures begin to rise and reach the 70s, the plant responds by bolting (flowering and going to seed) as a way to continue its life cycle. Producing seeds means that the species has a chance for another crop. 6 Ways to Keep Cilantro from Bolting While it can be difficult to stop cilantro from bolting, there are some ways to extend the life of the plant before it goes to seed and dies. Keep it Cool Whether you are growing cilantro in the garden or indoors in containers, temperature is a huge factor in how long the plant will last before it bolts. You can extend the harvest season by planting it in the early spring and fall when day and nighttime temperatures or lower. If growing cilantro indoors keep the plants around 70 degrees or lower. Control the Sunlight Cilantro needs only about six hours of bright sunlight. Select an indoor or outdoor spot that doesn't receive high-noon heat. Lighting for indoor pots of cilantro is easily controlled with grow lights. If planting outdoors in a hot climate, consider placing the plants where they can receive some afternoon shade. Too much heat from direct sun can cause the plant to bolt early. Water Regularly Plants that receive too much or too little water are placed under stress. To survive the stress, the plant bolts to produce some seed to extend the species. Whether growing in containers or the ground, keep the soil evenly moist but be sure the roots are never waterlogged. Pinch or Prune Often For new plants, once they reach about six inches tall pinch back the tips. Harvest or prune the leaves often (once a week) to remove damaged growth, yellowing leaves, or flowers that form. Practice Succession Planting This tip doesn't stop cilantro plants from bolting but it does help you keep tender, tasty cilantro on hand. Wait two to three weeks between each time you start seeds or plant new cilantro seedlings. This is called succession planting or planting the same crop several times during the growing season. Choose Slow-Bolting Cultivars There are cilantro cultivars that are less prone to bolting. Look for seedlings or seed packets that are described as bolt-resistant, heat-tolerant, or long-standing. Three choices are ‘Calypso’, ‘Slo Bolt’, and 'Leisure'. These cultivars are usually less sensitive to heat and can produce good-tasting foliage a bit longer into the growing season. Why Bolted Plants Can Actually Be Beneficial While it is disappointing to see a plant bolt and die, there are benefits to the natural process of bolting. The flowers that form will help attract much-needed pollinators to your garden. Many plants produce edible seeds after bolting that add flavor to prepared foods. The most beneficial effect of bolting is the production of seeds that can be saved to grow new plants. Backyard gardeners and commercial farmers have long known the value of allowing some plants to "go to seed" to maintain the longevity of a plant species.

Anticipation is likely one of the reasons it seems to take forever for your tomatoes to turn red. Dozens of varieties exist and tomatoes are fairly easy to grow, but it's the fresh, juicy taste and texture that make tomatoes the most popular crop grown in home gardens across the United States.1 Waiting for them to ripen to perfect red can seem endless, but besides anticipation there are several non emotion-based reasons for why your tomatoes are still green. Here are some of the most common reasons why your tomatoes aren't turning red, plus what you can do to speed up the ripening process. Temperature Too Hot or Too Cold Temperature is one of the bigger factors for ripening tomatoes and a few degrees too hot or too cold puts the process on hold or even stops ripening altogether. The ideal temperature tomatoes need to acquire their red color is 68 to 77 degrees F.2 At 85 degrees, the production of lycopene ceases leaving large green fruits on the vine until temperatures lower to more better levels. Temperatures consistently below 60 degrees F. also inhibit ripening. Fruits that are fully mature and have a slight blush can be harvested and brought indoors to finish ripening. They do not need to sit in a sunny window as long as the correct temperature is provided. Too Much Direct Sunlight Even though it might seem counterintuitive, too much sun exposure can slow down ripening. The heat is more important than light for ripening, and too much bright, hot, direct sunlight can raise temperatures to levels that inhibit lycopene production. Pruning leaves away from mature tomatoes to give them more sun exposure can also cause sunscald and cracking. Too Much Water Tomato plants need 1 to 2 inches of water per week when vines are actively growing and producing fruit. But once fruits reach their mature size, ripening occurs more quickly if irrigation is reduced or even stopped completely. Less water stresses the tomato plant and sends it into survival mode. The plant will focus energy into producing viable seed, which helps accelerate ripening. Insufficient Nutrients Tomatoes require a lot of nutrients and micronutrients throughout the growing season. Phosphorous and potassium are particularly important for the production and synthesis of lycopene in the fruits. Insufficient amounts can cause slow or uneven ripening. When the first small fruits appear on the plant, feed with a fertilizer higher in phosphorous such as and NPK 5-10-5. Too Much Nitrogen Tomato plants benefit from an application of balanced fertilizer such as an NPK 10-10-10 early in the season. This supports vine and foliage growth and encourages good root development and flower production. Once mature fruits are on the vine, fertilizing with a product that contains too much nitrogen can take away from ripening by refocusing energy on foliage growth. Once green fruits have reached a fully mature size, withhold fertilizer and allow the natural processes of ripening to take place in the fruit. Lack of Pruning Limiting the number of vines on a plant by removing early suckers is another way to focus energy into the production and ripening of fruit. Not every vine produces fruit and plants with unproductive vines or vines overloaded with fruit will struggle. This is especially true for determinate type tomato plants that produce many fruits all at the same time. Early pruning of your tomato plants results in higher quality fruit that ripens more easily and quickly. It's Not Supposed to Be Red It's important to understand, starting out, what your tomato type will look like when fully ripe. Many varieties ripen to different shades of red or may be orange, pink, purple and even striped. If you're waiting for your tomato to turn red, make sure that's the color it's supposed to be when it's ready to pick. Check your seed package for how many days to harvest for the tomato variety you've chosen. Some varieties need more or less growing time and may not work as well in your climate.

Moderate in spice and highly popular for cooks, Anaheim peppers (Capsicum annuum ‘Anaheim’), also known as Anaheim chilies, are a beginner-friendly pepper plant to add to your garden. Hotter than a bell pepper but milder than a jalapeno, many gardeners find these peppers to be the perfect blend and the ideal option for growing year after year. These plants can be grown as perennials, with one seed producing fruit for up to 3 years. With the right amount of sunlight and watering habits, learn how to grow your own Anaheim pepper plants and produce plenty of delicious fruit by late summer. Anaheim Pepper Care Because Anaheim peppers have the potential to be perennial plants, growing up to three years in a row on a single seed, many choose to plant in containers to allow for movement of the plant to sunnier spots throughout the year and the ability to move indoors during cold or rough weather. Plant each seed or seedling about 20 inches apart so they have proper room to grow and spread, though they don't need quite as much space as some other nightshades, like larger tomato varieties. However, the more room you give them, the more likely they will produce heartily for years without running out of space. Individual peppers should reach maturity and be harvested at around 80 days, though you can pick earlier when they're immature and green for a milder spice and sweeter taste. If you pick them when red and fully mature, the pepper still provides a generally mild spice, ranking at 500-1000 Scoville. Light Plant Anaheim peppers where they will receive the most sunlight, or plant in a container so you can move them to receive more sun. These light-loving plants should receive 6 to 8 hours of direct sun per day to stay healthy and produce the most fruit. Soil Anaheim peppers thrive best in sandy loam soil. If you can do a test, a pH of 7 to 8.5 is ideal and will yield the healthiest plants. The soil should be rich in organic material, so amending it with compost or manure is beneficial.1 Water Anaheim peppers require a careful balance when it comes to watering. They need frequent watering, especially during hot, dry spells in the summer. However, they're also very susceptible to root rot, so avoid overwatering. Do not water to the point of soaked soil. These plants will do best if given 1-2 inches of water per week. Water around the soil and base of the plant, rather than right onto the leaves, to avoid leaves rotting. Temperature and Humidity Due to its native climate, this plant does well in southern areas with lots of sun and dry heat. Plant them when temperatures are above 75 degrees Fahrenheit. The soil temperature should be at least 60 degrees when planting seeds or seedlings. Choose a spot with lots of direct sunlight and good airflow. You can also successfully grow these sun-loving nightshades in greenhouses but don't forget to incorporate fans, as these plants don't do well in an overly humid climate. Fertilizer Your pepper plant will have the best success if started with some fertilizer. You can also incorporate rock phosphorous or bone meal to encourage healthy root growth.2 As your plant grows, you can fertilize every few weeks with a low-nitrogen fertilizer. Organic options can be a great choice, but no matter what fertilizer you use, follow the application and quantity instructions carefully to avoid damaging the delicate plant. Pruning Pruning your pepper plant properly can help you achieve the highest yield possible. While not required, pruning helps provide more airflow for your plant, helps avoid rot and pests, and ultimately provides you with a greater harvest down the line. About a week after planting a seedling, you can begin early pruning. In this stage, pinch an inch or so off the main stem, which will encourage the development of two healthy branches and, therefore, a larger, healthier plant later on. Remove the first batch of flowers that appear on your plant early in the process. While it may seem counterintuitive, these flowers appear too early, and pulling them allows the plant to focus its energy on strengthening its branches and roots, then flowering later. Finally, later on, prune any branches or leaves that touch the soil. These are prone to rotting or becoming food for pests and can damage or kill your entire plant. Propagating Anaheim Peppers Propagating peppers takes a while and isn't always successful, but you may want to try it if you have a hardy, delicious, or disease-resistant plant in your garden. To do so, identify a young branch you'd like to remove. Using a sharp blade, remove it cleanly at the base of the branch. Leave a few leaves at the top but remove all lower leaves, flowers, and fruit. Fill a glass with water and submerge the cut end, ensuring at least one node is submerged. Keep the glass in indirect light and change the water as needed. Once roots 1-2 inches long form, transfer the cutting to soil or a hydroponic system. How to Grow Anaheim Peppers from Seed Anaheim peppers are tender and prefer warm weather, so they shouldn't be planted outside until the soil is warm and there's no risk of frost. You can plant seeds indoors in a growing tray or your seedling system of choice about a month and a half before your area's typical final frost date. Plant seeds about 0.2 inches deep in the soil and leave them near a window with full sun and no draft. Once the outdoor temps and soil temps are suitable (if nights are below 50 degrees, it's still too cold), and your seedling is at least 3 inches tall, you can transfer it to your garden bed or container, following the guidelines for fertilizer, soil type, and watering. Overwintering Anaheim peppers can be kept as a perennial for up to 3 years if you follow the proper steps for overwintering. For areas with winters that fall below 50 degrees, you'll need to take some precautions ahead of time, and you'll need to plant in moveable containers. Find an indoor spot that won't fall below 55 degrees, like an attached garage or basement. Your plant won't need lots of light during the winter. Being near a small window or even a fluorescent bulb will work. Once you've relocated your plant, cut down to watering only every 3 to 4 weeks, keeping the soil from entirely drying out but never soaking it. Leaves will die off as the plant goes dormant. This is normal, and doesn't mean the plant has died completely. At this point, you can also prune the plant back to a few main branches. They'll regrow come spring. About a month before your final frost, move the plant to somewhere with a bit more light and warmth. Then, once temperatures are high enough in the summer, move back outside to a spot with bright sunlight and resume normal care. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Aphids While mammals won't come to munch on your pepper plants, they are a draw to many common garden insect pests. Aphids love peppers and may come to eat them, leaving behind diseases or decimating your plant. Flea Beetles They're also prone to flea beetles, which will leave behind a pattern of tiny holes and yellowing leaves. Leafhoppers are another major issue, as they love pepper plants and will spread the mosaic virus very quickly. To prevent pests, keep your garden beds clear in the fall so there isn't extra leaf debris for them to make a home of. You can also employ floating row covers to help protect your plants when they're not flowering. Preventing disease is also easier if you plant with good spacing, use well-draining soil, and rotate crops every few years.

Trees are important landscape components that grow slowly but often outlast most other plants. They offer visual height, shade, and a habitat for birds, and well-planted trees could very well outlive you. Adding a tree to your property is a bit more complex than adding a small shrub or garden bed, but that doesn't mean it's too difficult for a DIY. You'll just need to invest time and resources into doing the job right if you want to leave your property more shaded and beautiful than you found it. Here's how to plant a tree the easy way and help it flourish for future generations. How to Plant a Tree Select Your Tree Type The best way to set yourself up for success is to choose a tree that will thrive in your local climate. Look up your region's USDA Plant Hardiness Zone and select a tree that is likely to grow well under local conditions. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Choose a Location Aesthetics isn't the only thing to consider when selecting the best spot for a tree. To figure out where to plant it, start with the process of elimination. You'll need to consider the following: Underground utility lines: Make sure you research your state laws before digging and contact the proper agencies and utility companies to mark underground lines. Sunlight: Most trees need six to eight hours of full sunlight to grow well, so avoid any shaded areas in your yard. Mature size: You'll also want to consider the full size of the tree when it matures, so don't select a location that's too close to structures like your home or other mature trees. Prepare Your Starter Tree If you're relatively new to gardening, planting a starter tree rather than a seed can help give you better results. You'll get to bypass the initial growing stages where more things can go wrong. Before planting a bare-root starter tree, you'll need to soak its roots in a bucket of water for a couple of hours to help them stay moist during the process. For potted starter trees, make sure to water the tree as soon as you get it home. Place it outside near its future dwelling place to allow it to acclimate to the conditions for a week. When you're ready to plant it, gently remove it from its container. Prepare the Hole Adjust the soil: Start by checking your soil's acidity and assessing its health. Most trees prefer loose, loamy, and well-draining soil with a neutral pH. However, you'll want to research your specific tree's needs and adjust the soil accordingly to make it more acidic or to raise the pH. Incorporating organic matter via compost can make the soil looser, more loamy, and better-draining, but it also raises the acidity. It's all about balance. Dig the hole: Dig a hole in your yard that's at least twice the width and about one inch deeper than the starter tree's root system. Set the excavated soil aside: Don't discard the extra soil you've removed from the tree. You'll need it in the next step. Transplant the Starter Tree To transplant your tree, place it upright in the prepped hole. Shovel the excavated soil back into the hole, tamping it gently as you go. Reposition the tree as needed during the process to ensure it stays upright. Add extra soil to the base of the tree in a mound shape, and create a moat around the perimeter for extra water to collect and keep the tree moist as it matures. Apply a thin layer of mulch, leaving a three-inch ring around the base of the tree to allow for air flow. How to Care for a Newly-Planted Tree While a young tree is establishing its root system, it needs some extra attention. Follow these care tips for the first two to three years after planting your tree. Water frequently:Water the tree daily for the first two weeks to prevent root shock, and slowly reduce the frequency after to every other day and then weekly. Once your tree becomes more established, you only need to water it every two to three weeks during dry periods. Keep it mulched: Keeping a young tree mulched will help its roots retain moisture better. Reapply the mulch on an annual basis. You can drop the frequency to once every two years when the tree matures. Stake it: Sometimes, a young tree's root system isn't established enough to support it. If you notice your transplanted tree bending, stake it to prevent it from snapping from the top weight or heavy winds. The Best Time to Plant a Tree You'll want to plant a starter tree into the ground when the weather is mild and when the plant is entering or just starting to end its dormancy period. For most regions, this is during fall or early spring. Both seasons have their pros and cons for planting a tree. Planting a Tree in Fall Planting a tree in the fall gives it ample time to establish its root system before the summer heat kicks in. Since the tree is on its way towards entering dormancy, it can channel its energy into root growth rather than leaf growth. However, you want to make sure you don't plant the tree too late in the fall, or you run the risk of below-freezing temps causing damage to the tree's root system. Planting a Tree in Spring Local nurseries often get a fresh supply of trees delivered in spring, so you should have a great selection to choose from. Just be sure to wait until after the ground has thawed from winter, but don't put it off too long. The warmer temps of early summer can cause the tree to go into shock.