In general, gardeners recommend planting vegetables in early spring to early summer. For fall harvests, some vegetables can be planted in late summer. You can get a head-start by starting seeds indoors, but starting plants too late will make your yield smaller. When should you plant vegetables? Overall, the best time to plant vegetables is between April and November. This broad growing season is divided into two seasons—spring and fall—for different crops. We spoke to three gardening specialists so you can learn when to plant vegetables. These experts will help you understand the difference between spring and fall plantings, as well as planting periods for specific vegetables. When to Plant Vegetables The best time to plant vegetables for a bountiful crop in most locations is from early spring to early summer, according to Paul Dysinger of Seedtime. The other best time for planting vegetables is fall. Spring Though spring is the best time to plant, each crop is different, Dysinger says. "Each location has different suggested times for that location based on average frost dates or climate, including if the crop is a warm weather or cool weather crop." The best time to plant vegetables is spring, agrees Chrissie Handley of Online Turf. This gives the vegetables enough time to germinate in the soil before the growing season begins. Within spring, the ideal time to plant a crop is early enough for it not to be killed or negatively impacted by a frost, leaving as much growing time as possible in the season, Dysinger says. Planting in early spring "means you’ll have earlier yield and stronger and tastier vegetables because of it," adds Handley. Fall For a fall harvest, cool-season vegetables can be planted in early spring (March to April) and again in late summer (August to September), says Chris Ramos, a gardening specialist with Blain's Farm & Fleet. The ideal time is early enough in the summer or fall for the crop to reach maturity by the time day length shortens and temperatures drop, Dysinger says. "At that time, the plant's growth slows down, and crops will no longer grow very quickly, if at all." "Warm-season crops like tomatoes and cucumbers should be planted after the last frost in mid-May," Ramos says. The crops can continue producing until the first frost in October or November. When to Plant Specific Vegetables Specific vegetables will have differing seasonal requirements to grow to their full bounty. Carrots As a cool season crop, carrot seeds should be planted in either of two periods: spring or mid-summer. For spring plantings in most locations in the U.S., Dysinger says, carrots should be planted from February to May. If you're in southern Florida, California, or Texas, it's different, and he suggests planting anywhere from September to March. For fall plantings in most locations in the U.S., carrots can be planted from July to September. "For a fall crop, carrots can stay in the ground until it freezes," Ramos says. Corn Spring corn can be planted from March to June, according Dysinger. However, in southern U.S. states without risk of frost, corn can be planted from October to March. For late corn harvests, corn can be planted from June to August, says Dysinger. Cucumbers Because cucumbers are sensitive, they are best planted in late spring to early summer, Handley says. "Cucumbers should be planted in late May to early June and harvested throughout summer," Ramos says. Kale Plant kale, from January to April for transplants and from February to May for direct seeding, according Dysinger. If you're located in southern Florida, California, or Texas, you can plant kale from September to March. Kale can be planted from July to September for fall plantings in most locations in the U.S., Dysinger says. Lettuce Lettuce should be planted from March to May for a strong yield, according to Handley. Peas Being a hardy vegetable, peas can be planted outdoors from March to April. If you like, you can start peas in a container to get a head start on growing. Potatoes Plant potatoes from late February to April. However, if you are located in a warm area, plant potatoes in late summer or early winter. That way, the potatoes won't be fighting the hottest time of the year—mid-summer. Radishes "Since they're fast growers, radishes are best planted during the high temperatures of summer, or from June to August, to help get continuous yield," Handley says. Tomatoes Tomatoes should be started indoors in late March or early April, according to Ramos. "Transplant the tomatoes outdoors in mid-May, and harvest them from mid-summer, or July, through early fall, or around September to October." Ramos adds that this late harvest—October—depends on your local frost conditions. Planting Before the Best Time Can you plant vegetables before their opportune planting time? You can always start your vegetables indoors where you can control the temperature and growing conditions to make sure the seeds get off to a good start, Handley says. Once you can see them sprouting, you can then move them outside. "This method is great for sensitive vegetables like tomatoes or peppers," Handley says. "But for hardier vegetables like potatoes—which infamously grow in any soil condition—carrots, or peas, you can plant them outdoors in slightly colder conditions." In later spring to early summer, Handley suggests moving your more sensitive vegetables outdoors when temperatures consistently reach above 50°F. Planting After the Best Time Is it too late to start a garden? You can often still plant vegetables after the ideal time has passed. The vegetable harvest may not be as bountiful, though. Even though spring is generally the time to plant vegetables, remember that fall is a second growing season. Vegetables planted in spring are harvested in summer, while fall vegetables are harvested from October to December. So, even if you miss spring plantings, you only have two or three months to wait until fall vegetables roll around in midsummer.

Potatoes should be planted when the soil temperature reaches 45 degrees F, and the soil is relatively dry. Plant seed potatoes six to eight inches deep in the soil and 12 inches apart. Plant potatoes in an area with full sun, and be sure to fertilize them upon planting and once a month after planting. Potatoes are the perfect vegetable for beginner gardeners to tackle. They're easy to grow, and, from each potato plant, you can expect to harvest at least five potatoes. As long as you give the original seed potatoes or tubers adequate moisture and full sun, they should thrive. But the key is getting them into the ground at exactly the right time, which will vary depending on where you're located. If growing potatoes is on your gardening list this spring, here are seasonal indicators you need to look for and when gardening experts say you should plant potatoes for the most abundant harvest. When to Plant Potatoes The best time to plant potatoes will depend on the climate in your region and that season's particular weather. Callie Bush, the edible gardener at R.P. Marzilli & Company, explains that potatoes shouldn't be planted until soil temperatures at at least 45 degrees Fahrenheit or above. This will differ depending on where you are located. For gardeners in the north, you might not put potatoes in the ground until late April. Meanwhile, gardeners in the south could plant them as early as February. If you're in an area where the winter sees significant snow or moisture over the winter, wait until the wettest days are behind you. "The ground needs to be fairly dry and loose because potatoes cannot handle soggy conditions," says Tammy Sons, CEO of TN Nursery. How to Plant Potatoes Potatoes are known for being easy-to-grow and agreeable in the garden, as long as you follow the right process to set them up for a successful growing season. If you are harvesting your own seed potatoes, Sons says, "Cut into sections containing at least one viable eye each and dried for one to two days before planting to prevent rot." When you plant seed potatoes, make sure the eye—the sprout–is facing upwards towards the sky. Plant seed potatoes up six to eight inches deep, and plant each seed potato 12 inches apart. Expect to see sprouts emerging from the soil in two to four weeks. While potatoes thrive in full sun, you should also take steps to protect them from hear. "Hill the plants by mounding soil around the base of the stems," Bush says. "This will encourage more tubers and will protect them from sun exposure." Typically, you'll have potatoes ready to harvest in 90 to 120 days. Where to Plant Potatoes Potatoes do best in full sun, where the top growth (the foliage above ground) can grow thick and lush. The more the top growth is able to thrive, the more it will feed the tubers down below. Ideally, potatoes should be planted in a spot that receives at least six hours of full sun a day, and up to eight hours or more is even better. However, potatoes don't love incredibly hot soil so, when they do get full sun, it's important to mulch around the area to help keep the soil temperature down. Tips for Planting Potatoes in the Garden If you're planting potatoes in you garden, here are a few tips you can follow to get the most from your crop. Use a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorous fertilizer when you plant them, then use a diluted liquid fertilizer monthly. Rather than trying to buy grocery store potatoes to get seed potatoes, buy certified disease-free potatoes. These will have a better chance of success than using the same potatoes you'd purchase for baked potato night. There are over 100 varieties of potatoes, and each has a slightly different growing season. Alternate early season and late season potatoes in your garden so you'll have potatoes throughout the harvest, from July to October. You'll know your potatoes are ready to harvest when the tops die off. This will generally happen 90 to 120 days after you plant your seed potatoes. If you're short on garden space, you can also plant potatoes in containers, just make sure to monitor their water intake carefully so you don't dry out the planters.

Magnolia trees are among the most popular flowering trees available, and it’s not hard to see why. Their large, showy blooms welcome spring every year, and their dense canopy of lush green leaves is often used to provide privacy or shade in landscapes. But not everyone enjoys these classic flowering trees, regardless of their beauty. They are known for being messy and requiring regular maintenance due to falling debris like leaves and petals. Magnolias also have shallow root systems, which can be a problem in areas that frequently experience severe weather events, as these trees can be more prone to damage. Additionally, if you’re on a quest to grow trees and plants native to the United States, unfortunately, magnolias don’t make the cut, says Anna Ohler, owner at Bright Lane Gardens. If you love the idea of a flowering tree but are not set on the upkeep that a magnolia tree may require, we’ve got you covered. Here are seven flowering trees to grow instead of magnolias that are just as beautiful, as recommended by gardening pros. 01 of 07 Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida) If you want a flowering tree that is also a native species, you can’t go wrong with the flowering dogwood (Cornus florida). These stunning trees boast delicate pink or white flowers in the spring, berries in the summer, and colorful fall foliage. They are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9 and are known for being relatively tidy, low-maintenance trees. The only downside? If you’re looking for a full-sun alternative to magnolias, flowering dogwoods probably aren’t the best fit. Ohler says most dogwood species prefer partial shade. 02 of 07 Crabapple (Malus spp.) Crabapples are a wildlife favorite, according to urban forester Ben Heusinkvelt. These small to medium-sized trees produce a spectacular display of flowers each year in the spring, followed by small tart fruits. There are many different species and cultivars to choose from, with several being native to North America if that’s your priority. These trees thrive in full-sun conditions, making them a great alternative to magnolias. “These cold hardy trees are drought tolerant once established and offer a flowering spectacle comparable to a magnolia," Heusinkvelt says. "One whiff of a blooming crabapple and you will be in love." 03 of 07 Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis) Contrary to the name, Eastern redbuds (Cercis canadensis) produce light purple-pink blooms that create a dazzling display in the early weeks of spring. For the best show of blooms, Eastern redbuds should be grown in a bright, sunny location, although they can tolerate part shade as well. They are hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8, with many cultivars. “There are many cultivars of the redbud, including weeping (Weeping Falls) and multi-colored foliage versions (Forest Pansy or Rising Sun)," Heusinkvelt says. "A lesser common variety is a white version known as simply a “Whitebud” (c. Canadensis.f alba.)." 04 of 07 Japanese Lilac Tree (Syringa reticulata) If you love lilac shrubs, Japanese lilac trees (Syringa reticulata) are a great choice. These unique ornamental trees are closely related to their shrubby cousins with creamy white blooms that are similar in form, but are known for blooming later, according to Heusinkvelt. Japanese lilacs grow best in full sun and are hardy in USDA zones 3 to 7. 05 of 07 Serviceberry (Amelanchier) Another native variety to love is serviceberry (Amelanchier). This genus includes about twenty deciduous trees and shrubs native to North America. These plants offer year-round interest, with flowers appearing in the spring, colorful berries in the summer, and striking fall foliage as temperatures cool. “The only downside is the spring flower display doesn't last quite as long as the magnolia's display does, but since those flowers are replaced by berries, I still consider it a win overall!” Ohler says. While hardiness zones vary depending on the species, these trees are known for being very cold-hardy. Many varieties tolerate temperatures as low as -30 F. 06 of 07 Japanese Cherry (Prunus serrulata spp.) Aside from magnolias, few other blooming trees are as popular and well-known as Japanese cherries (Prunus serrulata spp.). These trees shine in spring, boasting stunning pink or white blossoms, depending on the variety. Many different species and cultivars are available, but the ‘Kanzan’ and ‘Sekiyama’ cultivars are undoubtedly two of the most popular choices for home landscapes. These trees thrive in cold winters and warm summers and are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 8. 07 of 07 Crepe Myrtles (Lagerstroemia indica) Magnolias are known and beloved for their large volume of blooms, so if you’re looking for a similarly prolific bloomer, crepe myrtles (Lagerstroemia indica) may be your best choice. “A good runner-up as far as the number of blooms per tree is the Crepe Myrtle," says Lisa Tadewaldt, owner of Urban Forest Pro. "They [have] white or pink blooms in spring, depending on the variety." These small trees are known for growing best in warm climates, with most varieties being hardy in USDA zones 6 to 9. However, Tadewaldt says the white-blossomed Natchez variety is good for gardeners in colder regions.

After putting in all the effort that goes into hollowing out and carving jack-o-lanterns, no one wants to see their carved pumpkins spoil before Halloween. But, pumpkins only last for about 3 to 5 days after carving (and spoil even faster in warm weather). With Halloween just around the corner, I wanted to find out how to keep pumpkins from rotting, so I took to the internet and tracked down three viral hacks that allegedly keep pumpkins fresh longer. I gave the hacks a test run on my own pumpkins and here are the results. The Test I started my test in early October when the temperatures were around 60 degrees F during the day. I purchased 4 pumpkins that were similar in size, color, and texture to keep the test as consistent as possible. I even carved (or tried to) the same face onto each picture-perfect pumpkin. I did keep one pumpkin as a control to get a clear idea of how long pumpkins last in the conditions around my home. Below is the lineup of hacks that I tried: Diluted bleach spray: I sprayed one pumpkin daily, inside and out, with a diluted bleach spray made with 1 part bleach to 9 parts water. Hair spray: I sprayed one pumpkin, inside and out, with hair spray and applied this treatment only once after carving the pumpkin. Coconut oil: I rubbed coconut oil, inside and out, on one pumpkin and applied this treatment one time, right after carving. It's also biodegradable and compostable. Day 1 I cleaned the exterior of all the pumpkins with diluted bleach, carved them, applied the treatments to the test pumpkins, and set the pumpkins outside without candles. All three treatments were easy to apply, although the coconut oil was slightly messy. By evening, the control pumpkin and the pumpkin sprayed with bleach looked a little dry around their carved edges, but the other two pumpkins still looked fresh. Day 3 The weather remained warm and sunny through day 3 and, by the third day, that warmth was starting to take its toll on the control pumpkin and the pumpkin treated with bleach. These two pumpkins had already developed small patches of dark mold on their interiors, although their carved edges still looked mold-free and fresh enough for display. There was no visible mold on the hairspray and coconut oil pumpkins, but the skin near the carved sections of the hairspray pumpkin had darkened. Day 5 The difference in the pumpkins was undeniable by day 5. The weather was still pleasant and warm and all 4 pumpkins had at least some mold growing on their interiors; however, the coconut oil pumpkin had significantly less mold than the other three pumpkins and its carving still looked fresh. The hairspray pumpkin had a fair amount of mold on its interior but was still displayable. The control and bleach pumpkins, however, had mold growing along their carved eyes and mouths and did not look fresh. Days 6 through 10 Most pumpkin lovers would have disposed of the control and bleach pumpkins by day 5 or 6 due to visible mold, but I kept the experiment going a little longer. By day 10, all four pumpkins had dark mold on their interiors and carved sections, but the coconut oil pumpkin had much less mold than the other pumpkins. The carved edges of the coconut oil pumpkin also looked fresher and displayed less wrinkling and warping. Final Verdict Honorable mention: the hairspray treatment, which did appear to repel mold better than the bleach treatment. The clear winner: coconut oil. While the coconut oil treatment was messier to apply, it kept the pumpkin’s carved edges from drying out, significantly inhibited mold growth by at least 3 days compared to the control, and kept the pumpkin in displayable shape for at least 10 days. Considering the results of this experiment, I plan to wipe the pumpkins I carve for trick-or-treat night down with coconut oil after I carve them. But I’m also going to carve those pumpkins when the weather is cooler to help them stay fresh even longer.