Some trees can be pruned in winter, while other trees grow better when they’re pruned in spring. But no matter what types of trees you’re growing, early fall is the worst time to prune trees. Pruning just before winter makes trees more vulnerable to frost damage, but it can also reduce fruiting and flowering, and even increase the incidence of plant diseases. If you’re not sure when to prune the trees in your garden, here are the best and worst times to prune different types of trees, plus a few pruning tips that will help your trees grow better. Why Shouldn't You Prune Trees in Fall? In the early months of fall, trees are hard at work storing energy to carry through winter. Pruning trees at this time of the year can limit their ability to store nutrients, but it can also increase the chances that their tender leaves will be damaged by frost. Fall pruning can also make certain trees more vulnerable to pests and disease, and it may inhibit blooming if you accidentally clip away the flower buds on flowering trees. Broken, diseased, and damaged branches can be pruned away at any time of the year to keep issues from spreading. But more significant pruning and reshaping should only be performed at certain times of the year—and it should be avoided entirely from late summer to early fall. The Right Time to Prune Trees In general, the best time to prune most trees is during their winter dormancy period or from November to March; however, as you’ll soon see, some tree varieties are pruned a bit differently. Certain trees have specific pruning recommendations, so it’s always a good idea to research the pruning needs of the trees in your garden before picking up your pruning shears. Tip If you’re in doubt about tree ID, a tree care professional or your local cooperative extension office may be able to identify your plants for you (and offer some pruning advice too). Deciduous Trees Deciduous trees, like oaks, maples, and many common landscaping trees, lose their leaves in winter, so it’s important to avoid pruning them in early fall when they’re storing energy. Instead, these plants grow best when they’re pruned during their winter dormancy period, which lasts from late fall to early spring before the plants leaf out. Pruning in winter when trees are leaf-free makes it easier to see the tree’s branches and your pruning cuts, but it also reduces the incidence of tree diseases, like oak wilt. Flowering Trees Some deciduous trees produce flowers, but how the flowers form influences how the trees need to be pruned. Using different pruning techniques for new wood and old wood trees will ensure your trees flower well. New Wood Trees: Trees that bloom on new wood or that flower from summer to fall are usually treated like deciduous trees and pruned during their winter dormancy period. Crepe myrtles fall into this category, as do panicle hydrangeas, smoke trees, and rose of Sharon. Old Wood Trees: Flowering cherry, apricot, lilac, dogwood, and other trees that flower early in spring generally bloom on old wood and form their flower buds during the previous season of growth. To ensure you don’t damage flower buds, prune these trees immediately after they finish flowering and never prune them in fall or winter. Fruit Trees Trees that are grown for their edible fruit can usually withstand light pruning at the end of summer, but it’s best to save major pruning for late winter. Pruning fruit trees in spring or summer makes them more vulnerable to fire blight and other diseases, while pruning in autumn can cause newly cut branches to dry out or die back. Hawthorns, crab apples, and other close relatives of apple trees should be pruned during their winter dormancy too. Evergreen Trees Evergreen or conifer trees usually don’t need significant pruning. But if your spruces, hemlocks, firs, and pines need a trim, late winter to early spring is the time. Evergreens, like arborvitae and yew trees, are a bit more flexible and can be pruned through mid-summer—just as long as you don’t prune them in hot weather. Palm Trees Pruning times are a little more forgiving in areas with mild winters, and tropical palm trees can technically be pruned at any time of the year if their fronds start to droop or turn brown. If you can wait, spring is the best time to prune most palm trees. This will allow you to clean up any fronds damaged during hurricane season and the pruning cuts will heal faster as well. Young Trees Newly transplanted trees are handled a bit differently than established trees since they are more delicate and have fewer branches to trim away. For best results, only prune dead or broken branches when transplanting new trees into your garden, and make more significant pruning cuts when the trees are dormant in winter. Go slow with young trees and prune just a few branches at a time, then make more pruning cuts as your trees grow to improve their shape. Why Should You Prune Trees at All? Not all trees need to be pruned, but many trees grow, fruit, and flower better if they’re pruned in the right way and at the right time. Although trees can be pruned for a variety of reasons, some of the main perks of pruning include: Improved shape. Pruning removes wayward branches and helps refine the shape of trees as they grow. You can also use pruning to train trees into fun shapes or trim trees to keep them small! Better fruiting and flowering. Pruning is especially beneficial for fruit trees, but it can also make flowering trees bloom more abundantly. By improving airflow and sunlight access, pruning can boost fruiting and make fruit taste even better. Reduced pests and diseases. If pests and diseases invade, infested branches can be pruned away to keep problems from spreading. But you can also use pruning preventatively to increase air circulation and reduce the incidence of plant diseases, like mildew. Fewer broken branches. Some types of branches, like “waterspouts,” are prone to breaking, which can introduce pathogens into a tree’s break. Removing these branches preventatively can help you avoid issues later on. Enhanced wound healing. Trees have a hard time healing ragged breaks in their branches. But if you prune broken areas away, the tree will heal faster. Safety. Overgrown branches can be a safety hazard, especially if they reduce visibility around your driveway or are growing into power lines. Pruning damaged limbs before they fall is always a wise choice.

If your hydrangeas put on a spectacular summer show of blooms they deserve some attention for the winter. If they don't perform very well, they deserve winter care even more to encourage better performance next summer. We've gathered five tasks and some tips you should be doing to care for hydrangeas in the winter to keep your plants healthy and happy. Provide Winter Moisture to Hydrangeas Hydrangeas are thirsty plants that require hydration throughout the growing season and even in dormant months. If you live in an area where the ground freezes hard, continue to water deeply and consistently until the ground freezes solid. In areas where the ground does not freeze, hydrangeas should be watered deeply but infrequently during the winter. Monitor rainfall carefully because winter precipitation may offer enough moisture. Add Nutrients the Right Way Commercial fertilizers, especially those with a high nitrogen NPK count, should never be used on hydrangeas at the end of the growing season. The nitrogen will cause a sudden spurt of green growth that will be killed with the first frost. Instead, supplement the soil with a few inches of compost that will break down slowly during the winter months. In warmer hardiness zones (7 and above), apply the compost in late fall or early winter by layering it directly over the soil. In colder zones, wait until the ground has frozen and top-dress the soil with compost before you apply mulch to protect the roots. Protect the Root System With Mulch Whether you are in an area where the ground freezes or in a warmer zone, adding mulch will protect the roots by acting as an insulator and help retain moisture. After the ground freezes or in early winter, add about six to eight inches of mulch over the compost top-dressing. Don't mulch too early in warmer zones because that can cause rotting, disease, and provide shelter for munching rodents. Remember that thick mulch should be removed when spring buds appear. For small plants in cold temperature zones (6 and lower), the mulch can be applied as a mountain covering the majority of the hydrangea. Protect Hydrangeas With a Burlap Wrap If you live in zone 6 or lower, your hydrangeas will benefit from a burlap wrap to protect them from heavy snow drifts and drying winter winds. Growers in warmer zones don't need to worry about wrapping plants unless the hydrangeas are on a northern slope and temperatures below 0 degrees are expected for multiple days. One way to construct a burlap wrap is to place bamboo stakes in a circle around the hydrangea. Wrap a couple of layers of burlap around the stakes and secure it with twine. For larger plants or a bed of hydrangeas, build a frame with four or more posts and stretch chicken wire around the posts. The wire should be at least six inches taller than the top of the hydrangea. Add a couple of layers of burlap around the outside of the wire and secure it often with twine. Prune Hydrangeas Wisely While winter pruning is recommended for fruit trees, it's not the best time to prune hydrangeas except to remove limbs broken by strong winds or heavy snow. The best time to prune a hydrangea to produce the most blooms next summer depends on whether the shrub blooms on new wood (growth produced in the current season) or old wood (growth from the previous season). New wood hydrangeas(panicle and smooth varieties): Wait until early winter when the plant is dormant. Fall or winter pruning can be done to remove dried blooms and help shape the plant. Old wood hydrangeas (mophead and oakleaf): should only be pruned immediately after flowering in the spring and summer. Most horticulturists recommend no pruning after August 31. Additional Tips for Winter Hydrangea Care Bring container-grown hydrangeas indoors when temperatures fall below freezing. Water the plants sparingly to prevent root rot. To help hydrangeas overwinter in extremely cold zones, planting them near a heat-holding structure like a brick wall or foundation. Choose a spot with bright sunlight and protection from winter winds. Regularly inspect sheltered or wrapped hydrangeas and clear away heavy snow.

Mandevilla, known commonly as "rock trumpet," is a perennial vine in USDA hardiness zones 10 to 11. This tropical plant does not survive cold temperatures, so you must take steps to overwinter it. If you grew mandevilla in large pots for summer displays, an advantage is that, with cold temperatures on the horizon in fall, you can simply move your plant inside to protect it from the cold. Learn how to overwinter mandevilla, including two overwintering options, what to do after you have brought it indoors, and whether or not you should cut it back for winter. Your Options for Overwintering Mandevilla There are two main ways to overwinter your mandevilla plant, but both involve bringing it indoors. If you have sufficient room in your house, grow it as a houseplant over the winter. If you lack space, locate it in a storage area and allow it to go dormant. Growing Mandevilla as a Houseplant If you have been growing mandevilla outdoors in a pot, all you need to do is bring the pot indoors. If you have been growing it in the ground, you will have to pot it up. To do so, follow these steps: Select the right pot size: Select a container that is a bit larger than your Mandevilla's root ball. This will allow the roots to spread. Avoid a container that's too big: It will retain excessive water, potentially leading to root rot. Fill the pot with potting mix: Mandevilla wants good drainage. A potting mix drains better than garden soil. If the container is large, place small stones in the bottom for even better drainage. Plant your Mandevilla: Dig a hole big enough to accommodate the root ball. Place your Mandevilla in the hole, keeping its base at the same level of the soil as it was while growing outdoors. Tamp the soil down: Gently push down around your mandevilla to ensure it rests firmly in the soil. Water: Moisten the soil, but avoid overwatering. Bringing Mandevilla Indoors and Let It Go Dormant The other option to overwinter mandevilla is to bring it, container and all, indoors, or pot it up and bring it indoors. Except, here, rather than treating it as a houseplant, you are providing conditions that will allow it to "sleep" through the winter. Store it in a cool (but not cold), dark place (for example, a basement). Temperatures in the 50s (F) will be ideal. Water the plant only when the soil is completely dry. How to Care for Mandevilla After Overwintering After you have begun the overwintering process by bringing your plant indoors, your care regimen will differ depending on whether you are overwintering mandevilla as a houseplant or in a dormant state: As a Houseplant: If you're treating it as a houseplant, give it a temperature of 65° to 70°, with as much humidity as possible. Give it bright but indirect sunlight, and keep its soil evenly moist (but don't let it get soggy). Any fertilizer you apply to a mandevilla houseplant should be applied at a weaker dose than when you fertilize it outdoors. The plant won't grow as vigorously indoors, and excessive fertilizer would only harm it. As a Dormant Plant: Since you won't be showing off your mandevilla as a houseplant, prune it back to just a few inches above the soil. This will help prepare it for next summer. Make sure the temperature is above 45° to 50° Fahrenheit. Keep it in the dark and water it very sparingly. Apply no fertilizer to a mandevilla being kept dormant. Should You Cut Back Mandevilla for Winter? If you will be keeping your mandevilla in a dormant state, prune it to within a few inches of the soil surface. Even if you are growing it as a houseplant, prune it in early spring to prepare it for the new growing season. Remove some of the older stems, along with any stems that are crisscrossing. This will open up the plant (improving air circulation) and reinvigorate it.

Peach-picking season extends from June to August, and they are ready to harvest during that period when their skins turn yellowish-red—that's how you know they're perfectly ripe. If you want to grow the tastiest peaches, these quick and easy tips will help you determine exactly when to pick peaches for sweet and juicy fruit every time. When to Pick Peaches Some varieties of peach trees fruit earlier than others, but most peaches are harvested from late June through August. That said, various factors can influence when peach trees fruit—chilly spring weather, drought, and other environmental conditions can delay peach harvesting season. Fresh peaches taste best when they mature outdoors on the tree, but harvesting can be a bit of a balancing act. If you pick peaches too early, you’ll have hard, flavorless fruit. But if you pick peaches too late, your harvest may turn mushy or get gobbled up by birds. Rather than relying on the calendar date, it’s usually best to pick peaches when the fruit displays particular signs of ripeness. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! 5 Signs Your Peaches Are Ripe If you want to time your peach harvest for perfectly ripe fruit, watch for these signs: Color. Ripe peaches should have uniformly, golden yellow skins, which may display tinges of red, orange, or pink. If the peaches still have green coloration, they aren’t ready yet. Scent. Underripe peaches don’t emit much scent, while fully ripened fruit can be incredibly fragrant. In fact, a peach tree laden with ripe peaches can perfume a small garden with a sugary sweet fragrance. Shape. Peaches become rounder as they ripen, while underripe peaches look like green olives with a slightly elongated shape. Feel. If you harvest a peach and it still feels firm or crunches when you bite into it, it’s not ripe. Fully ripened peaches should be slightly soft and give a little when you gently press into their skins. Taste. Of course, you can also test whether or not peaches are ready to pick by trying a taste of a peach or two. When the fruit is as sweet and juicy as you like, it’s time to harvest. How to Pick Peaches Peaches ripen at approximately the same time, although fruit towards the exterior of the tree and the tips of the tree branches typically ripens a little earlier than fruit growing at the center of the plant. When your peaches are ready to harvest: Grasp a peach in one hand and the supporting branch in the other hand. Give the peach a little twist with your fingers. If the peach is fully ripe, it should detach easily from the tree. After harvesting, gently place peaches in a bucket, basket, or harvesting apron and handle them gently to prevent bruised skin. It’s best to avoid washing peaches until you’re just about to use them as excess moisture can speed up decay. To maintain freshness, keep ripe peaches in the fridge, or freeze, dehydrate, or can them for even longer storage. What to Do If You Pick Peaches Too Early While it’s best to allow peaches to ripen on the tree, if you happen to harvest peaches a little early, don’t worry. Unlike citrus fruits and cherries, peaches can continue to ripen after harvesting. To ripen peaches: Place your peach harvest on your countertop and allow it to ripen out of direct sun for a few days at room temperature. Or, place the peaches in a brown paper bag to help them ripen even faster.