Mango trees, Mangifera indica, make attractive houseplants similar to Ficus or palm trees. They feature a canopy of long, slender, glossy leaves atop a trunk that can grow 10 feet tall, This tropical thrives outdoors only in zones 9 and higher so is grown in pots in most temperate zones Container-grown plants require special care and a lot of patience to produce fruit. Plan on anywhere from eight to ten years for your tree to produce blooms. From flower to ripe fruit takes between three and six months. Choose and Prepare Mango Seeds Ripest mangoes have the best quality seeds. Once the fruit is removed, clean the seeds for better germination. Wrap them in moist paper towels and set aside for several days until completely dry. Remove the paper towel and brush off loose debris. Use a sharp scissor to cut open the seam along the long edge of the hull. It's tough so you may need a sharp knife to pry the seam apart. Insert the knife just under the inside edge and work the hull open to avoid damaging the seed. Once loosened, pry it open using two hands. The seed comes out easily. Discard seeds with mushy spots and discoloration. Seeds have two other thin, papery coverings. Remove the top one. Now you are ready to germinate your mango seeds. How to Plant Mango Seeds Mango seeds can be germinated in two ways. The plastic bag method is quicker but involves an extra step. Germinate in Plastic Bag You'll need a paper towel, sealable plastic bag, loose potting mix, and a 2- to 3-gallon pot with drainage holes. Follow these steps. Wet a paper towel and wring out excess water. Wrap the mango seed inside the paper towel, place the wrapped mango seed inside a plastic bag, and seal it. Keep the sealed bag in a warm (70°F), dark location. Check the seed regularly to make sure the paper towel stays damp and rewet when needed. A white root or roots should begin to form in about seven days. If roots have not yet developed, rewrap the seed and place it back in the bag. Continue to check every couple of days for roots to appear. As soon as the first root appears, remove the paper towel. Fill your container with quality potting mix. Perlite can be added for extra drainage. Place the seed, flat side down on top of the potting mix, and cover it completely with more medium. Water the pot from the bottom by setting it in a container filled with warm water. Place it in a warm location (70°F to 90°F) with bright, indirect light. A shoot should break through the soil in two to three days. Roots and shoots emerge from the same spot on the seed. How to Care for Mango Seedlings Mango trees are tropical plants that thrive on plenty of sun, warmth and humidity. In climates with warm summers and cold winters grow them as container plants overwintered indoors or in a heated greenhouse. Light Mango trees need six to eight hours of bright sun every day. Light exposure for seedlings should be bright but indirect until the plant matures at around four months when a small trunk is well rooted with a canopy of leaves. Expose young trees gradually to more direct sunlight daily. Growers in northern zones may need to supplement with grow lights. Soil These trees are not picky about soil but grow best in well-draining, organically fertile loam. They tolerate soils from slightly alkaline to slightly acidic from 5.5 to 7.5 pH. Container grown trees kept as houseplants may do well in cactus mix. Water Keep soil evenly moist while growing out seedlings. Mature plants are watered less frequently when the top 2 inches of soil dry out. Irrigate potted plants thoroughly then allow excess to drain before returning the plant to its saucer. Water garden seedlings every other day until established then reduce frequency to once weekly. Temperature and Humidity Maintain temperature between 65°F and 90°F. Plants tolerate dips as low as 40°F but exposure to 30°F for extended periods causes damage and loss. Humidity levels between 60 and 80 percent are ideal. Houseplants benefit from pebble trays or place them in groupings with other plants to raise humidity. Fertilizer Feed container plants once a month during the growing season with a balanced liquid fertilizer. Feed garden grown plants with a NPK 10-10-10 during growing seasons for the first four years then switch to a fertilizer higher in phosphorous and potassium to encourage flowering. Transplant Mango Seedlings Plan to transplant in spring or early summer during active growth. Mango trees grow rapidly and should be potted up when roots fill the container. To pot up, choose a pot one size larger. Transplant into the garden at about four months as long as the tree has a well-developed root system. Choose a spot that receives full sun. Dig a hole deep and wide enough to accommodate the tap root and root ball. Set the tree at the same level as in the pot and backfill. Tamp soil down and water well. Pests and Diseases Container-grown mango trees kept indoors are vulnerable to typical houseplant pests including mites, aphids, mealy bugs, and scale. Insecticidal soap or horticultural oils eliminate them but repeat applications may be necessary. High levels of humidity predispose mango trees to fungal infections including powdery mildew. Prevent these problems by watering at soil level in the morning and providing good air circulation around plants.

Pick a space for your herb garden that can provide the proper light, soil nutrients, and humidity your herbs need. Pick and place herbs according to their needs—some plants need less water than others. After harvesting herbs they can either be frozen or dried in order to keep them viable for longer. Herb gardens are the perfect introduction to gardening and supply your senses and pantry with fresh flavors and scents. Whether you plan to grow herbs in containers or a small plot, here are the things you need to know to start a successful herb garden. Pick a Space for Your Herb Garden Herb gardens are so popular because they are easy to start and maintain; they grow quickly and you can begin harvesting within a few weeks. The size of your herb garden is up to you and depends on the quantity and variety of herbs you want to grow. Light Almost all herbs require at least 6 hours of full sun daily. A few such as chervil, mint, chives, and cilantro can be grown in an area with light shade. Soil Herbs need well-draining soil. They will no thrive in heavy, wet soil. Adding compost to clay soil will help improve the structure and drainage. The soil does not have to be highly fertile; too many nutrients tends to produce excessive amounts of poorly-flavored foliage. Temperature and Humidity Mediterranean herbs like basil, thyme, rosemary, oregano, and lavender like warm, sunny, dry conditions. Most perennial and biennial herbs can overwinter if they are protected with layers of mulch. Established herbs can tolerate dry conditions but supplemental water is recommended during periods of drought. Use mulch to conserve soil moisture, but keep it away from the base of the plants to prevent stem rot. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Pick Which Herbs You Want to Grow Most people plant the herbs they enjoy using for cooking, making teas, or drying for potpourri. Some make selections based on fragrance or bloom color. The beauty of an herb garden is that it is personal to your preferences. It is a good idea to group your chosen herbs by their watering needs to prevent over-watering those that prefer drier conditions. Drought-Tolerant Herbs Borage: Once established, allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Fennel: Drought-tolerant once established; allow the soil to dry between waterings. Lavender: Lavender will not survive wet roots and heavy soil. Marjoram: Drought-tolerant and prefers dry soil with occasional watering. Oregano: Thrives in dry and warm climates with low rainfall levels. Sage: A drought-tolerant plant that prefers soil to dry out between waterings. Rosemary: Prefers slightly drier conditions and minimal watering. Thyme: Water only when the soil is completely dry. Winter savory: Once established, prefers dry soil. Herbs with Moderate Watering Needs Basil: A broadleaf herb, it requires more water than herbs like thyme, rosemary, and sage. Bay laurel: For healthy leaves, keep the soil evenly moist. Catnip: A member of the mint family, catnip requires consistent moisture to flourish. Chervil: Prefers evenly moist soil with good drainage. Chives: Although drought-tolerant, chives must be watered evenly throughout the growing season for high yields. Cilantro: The soil should be kept evenly moist for tender leaves. Dill: Requires consistent moisture levels to flower and produce seeds. Lemon balm: Prefers soil that is moist but never wet. Lemon verbena: Requires regular watering. Mint: Thrives around water and can tolerate wet roots. Parsley: Evenly moist soil produces the most tender leaves of flat or curly parsley. Tarragon: Young plants need regular watering to become established. Propagating Herbs There are many ways to propagate herbs, and doing so can keep your herb garden fresh and perpetually growing for years. By Seed Nearly all herbs grow well from seed that you've saved or purchased. Fine herbs like anise, cilantro, dill, and fennel should be directly sown into the garden once the danger of frost has passed because they do not transplant well. Basil, parsley, sage, and thyme can be started indoors and transplanted into the garden when temperatures warm. After planting seeds in well-tilled soil with good drainage, water lightly until they germinate. From Cuttings To quickly establish new plants, herbs can be propagated from cuttings. Take cuttings in spring or early summer when the plant is actively growing; select a 3 to 4-inch stem that is healthy and tender. Strip the leaves off the bottom two inches and dip the cut end in rooting hormone. Place the stem in a small pot of moistened potting soil. Cover the pot with a plastic bag and place it in an area with bright, indirect light. Keep the soil moist and remove the plastic bag when new leaves begin to grow. Transplant the cutting into the garden once the plant has at least 3 or 4 sets of new leaves. Propagating Without a Plant If you don't have herb plants already established, there are some herbs you can grow from supermarket purchases like mint, basil, thyme, and more. By Division Herbs that have a clumping habit like tarragon, chives, and mint can be divided to create new plants. Use a garden trowel to gently dig up the clump of herbs. Use a clean, sterile knife to separate individual plants and replant or share them with others. Harvesting Herbs harvesting mint Valeriy_G / Getty Images Once an herb plant has enough foliage to maintain growth, fresh leaves can be harvested. It's best to harvest herbs before they flower or go to seed because leaf production declines. Snip stems at a leaf node with sharp, sterile clippers. For the best flavor, pick leaves or seeds after the morning dew has evaporated but before temperatures are high. Before using, discard any bruised or soiled leaves and inspect the herbs for insects or foreign matter. Rinse the herbs under running water and shake gently to remove excess moisture. How to Preserve Herbs The two best methods for preserving herbs are freezing and drying. Depending on the herbs you're drying, one method might suit your needs better than the other. By Freezing Tender herbs like basil, chives, cilantro, dill, lemon balm, mint, parsley, and tarragon freeze well in small batches. After harvesting and rinsing the herbs, pat the herbs dry. Place the herbs in a freezer bag, seal the bag, and place it in the freezer. To freeze in pre-measured portions, chop the herbs finely and place them in an ice cube tray. Add a small amount of water and allow the tray to freeze. When solid, pop out the cubes and store them in plastic bags. By Drying Rosemary, sage, thyme, and winter savory are the easiest herbs to dry and will retain the most flavor and color. After harvesting and rinsing the herbs, pat them dry with a paper towel. Form small bunches and tie them with cotton string. Hang the bunches upside down in a warm, well-ventilated place until the moisture evaporates. Avoid hang in direct sunlight that can strip flavor and color. The herbs are dry when the leaves crumble and the stems break when bent. Store dried herbs whole, crumbled, or ground in a cool, dark spot in a labeled airtight container for up to six months for the best flavor.

Peach-picking season extends from June to August, and they are ready to harvest during that period when their skins turn yellowish-red—that's how you know they're perfectly ripe. If you want to grow the tastiest peaches, these quick and easy tips will help you determine exactly when to pick peaches for sweet and juicy fruit every time. When to Pick Peaches Some varieties of peach trees fruit earlier than others, but most peaches are harvested from late June through August. That said, various factors can influence when peach trees fruit—chilly spring weather, drought, and other environmental conditions can delay peach harvesting season. Fresh peaches taste best when they mature outdoors on the tree, but harvesting can be a bit of a balancing act. If you pick peaches too early, you’ll have hard, flavorless fruit. But if you pick peaches too late, your harvest may turn mushy or get gobbled up by birds. Rather than relying on the calendar date, it’s usually best to pick peaches when the fruit displays particular signs of ripeness. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! 5 Signs Your Peaches Are Ripe If you want to time your peach harvest for perfectly ripe fruit, watch for these signs: Color. Ripe peaches should have uniformly, golden yellow skins, which may display tinges of red, orange, or pink. If the peaches still have green coloration, they aren’t ready yet. Scent. Underripe peaches don’t emit much scent, while fully ripened fruit can be incredibly fragrant. In fact, a peach tree laden with ripe peaches can perfume a small garden with a sugary sweet fragrance. Shape. Peaches become rounder as they ripen, while underripe peaches look like green olives with a slightly elongated shape. Feel. If you harvest a peach and it still feels firm or crunches when you bite into it, it’s not ripe. Fully ripened peaches should be slightly soft and give a little when you gently press into their skins. Taste. Of course, you can also test whether or not peaches are ready to pick by trying a taste of a peach or two. When the fruit is as sweet and juicy as you like, it’s time to harvest. How to Pick Peaches Peaches ripen at approximately the same time, although fruit towards the exterior of the tree and the tips of the tree branches typically ripens a little earlier than fruit growing at the center of the plant. When your peaches are ready to harvest: Grasp a peach in one hand and the supporting branch in the other hand. Give the peach a little twist with your fingers. If the peach is fully ripe, it should detach easily from the tree. After harvesting, gently place peaches in a bucket, basket, or harvesting apron and handle them gently to prevent bruised skin. It’s best to avoid washing peaches until you’re just about to use them as excess moisture can speed up decay. To maintain freshness, keep ripe peaches in the fridge, or freeze, dehydrate, or can them for even longer storage. What to Do If You Pick Peaches Too Early While it’s best to allow peaches to ripen on the tree, if you happen to harvest peaches a little early, don’t worry. Unlike citrus fruits and cherries, peaches can continue to ripen after harvesting. To ripen peaches: Place your peach harvest on your countertop and allow it to ripen out of direct sun for a few days at room temperature. Or, place the peaches in a brown paper bag to help them ripen even faster.

Dill is a popular herb to toss in various dishes, but dill plants can also do well in the garden. Dill is an excellent companion plant for certain herbs and vegetables, such as basil and broccoli, as well as flowers like marigolds. This guide will help you use this versatile herb to benefit plants in your garden. Here are 12 dill companion plants to help cultivate a healthy and productive garden. Benefits of Companion Planting Companion planting is a tried-and-true gardening technique that can boost the health of certain crops when planted together. Some plants can attract pollinators like wasps and repel pests like cabbage worms and moths. Additionally, while most plants absorb nutrients from the soil, some do the opposite. Bush beans, for instance, send nitrogen back into the earth to benefit neighboring plants, and chamomile can release chemicals that boost growth and even flavor in nearby plants. Dill is a great companion plant for numerous herbs and vegetables primarily for its relationship with good and bad insects. Dill plants can attract pollinators like honeybees and ladybugs to your garden, as well as deter harmful insects like aphids and spider mites. Additionally, dill has shallow roots and narrow stems that can easily fit between larger plants like Brussels sprouts to help you save space in your garden. Corn Insects like cutworms and earworms can threaten mature corn. Dill has an intense fragrance that attracts various insects like ladybugs and hoverflies. These beneficial bugs happen to prey on corn's harmful pests, making flowering dill plants an excellent companion for established corn.1 Experts recommend growing dill on the ends of corn rows, roughly one foot away from the nearest corn stalk. Name: Corn (Zea mays) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-11 Light: Full sun Soil: Loamy, well-drained, acidic, neutral Asparagus For many crops, aphids are always on the prowl, looking to gobble up your plants before you have the chance. Asparagus is among these vulnerable veggies. Fortunately, dill seeds attract both lacewings and ladybugs, which enjoy snacking on aphids.1 Additionally, companion planting with asparagus and dill is a great way to maximize growing space and ensure an even distribution of nutrients. Name: Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-9 Light: Full sun Soil: Sandy, loamy, neutral acidic Basil Dill and basil are great companion plants, because of their many similarities. Not only do they benefit from similar soil components, but they also attract many of the same beneficial insects and deter destructive pests.1 Companion Planting. Franklin Park Conservatory and Botanical Gardens. If you're building an herb garden, be sure to plant basil nearby. Name: Basil (Ocimum basilicum) USDA Hardiness Zones: 10-11 Light: Full sun Soil: Moist, rich, well-draining, acidic to alkaline Deer Resistant: Yes Tip Other herbs like coriander, parsley, and chervil also make great dill companion plants. Broccoli Brassica vegetables include broccoli, cauliflower, kale, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, turnips, and more, many of which make great dill companion plants. Dill can help deter destructive insects like cabbage moths, cabbage loopers, and cabbage worms, all of which enjoy munching on brassica vegetables like broccoli.2 Name: Broccoli (Brassica oleracea var. italica) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-11 Light: Full sun Soil: Moist, loamy, well-drained, acidic, neutral Marigold Dill can help repel a variety of pesky insects, but it is not immune to damage from certain bugs like caterpillars and slugs. Fortunately, there are certain plants that can ward off these critters, including marigolds.2 Marigolds are considered one of the best companion plants, pairing perfectly with onions, squash, cucumber, and more. Name: Marigold (Tagetes spp.) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-11 Light: Full sun Soil: Evenly moist, well-drained, slightly acidic to neutral Lettuce Some sources argue that leafy vegetables like lettuce are the best dill companion plant of all.1 Not only is lettuce a primary target of many garden pests, but it has a short growing cycle, so you can harvest and replant your lettuce, spinach, and Swiss chard as the dill grows. Name: Lettuce (Lactuca sativa) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-11 Light: Full sun to partial sun Soil: Loamy, rich, well-drained, acidic, neutral Onion Aphids tend to avoid the intense fragrance that accompanies dill, but that doesn't mean dill is protected from the threat of this common garden pest. Many avid gardeners recommend planting onions and dill together because the combination of these strong aromas offers an even better barrier against bugs like aphids.21 Name:Onion (Allim cepa) USDA Hardiness Zones: 4-9 Light: Full sun Soil: Loamy, well-drained, neutral Beans Like dill, beans are a great companion plant, because of the benefits they offer neighboring plants. Specifically, the roots of bean plants attract nitrogen, which benefits the surrounding plants. In exchange, dill keeps away common garden pests that threaten to destroy growing bean plants.2 Name: Common bean, green bean, etc. (Phaseolus vulgaris) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-11 Light: Full sun Soil: Loamy, moist, well-drained, acidic Nasturtium Like marigolds, nasturtiums can be an excellent dill companion plant and benefit a number of other popular garden herbs and veggies. Just as onions and dill work together to repel aphids, nasturtium can protect garden crops by doubling dill's efforts. This popular companion plant attracts pollinators as well as predatory insects, making it a great addition to most garden beds.1 Name: Nasturtium (Tropaeolum spp.) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-11 Light: Full sun Soil: Moist but well-drained, acidic, neutral, alkaline Chives Like onions, chives have an intense fragrance that can deter aphids, making dill and chives a great pest-fighting team. Chives will not only help dill deter this destructive garden critter, but it also repels other garden pests like spider mites. Together, chives and dill attract pollinators to foster health for neighboring plants.2 Name: Chives (Allium schoenoprasum) USDA Hardiness Zones: 4-8 Light: Full sun to light shade Soil: Loamy, sandy, slightly acidic to neutral Tip Some sources say planting dill near alliums like garlic, chives, onions, and leeks can help enhance their flavor.2 Zucchini Zucchini and other squash plants tend to grow big and bushy, so not every popular companion plant pairs well with these leafy giants. Fortunately, dill is thin and frond-like, so it won't clash with the squash plant's leaves or block sunshine. Additionally, zucchini and squash are particularly susceptible to pests like squash beetles and flea beetles, but dill plants offer an effective line of defense by attracting predatory insects.2 Name: Zucchini (Cucurbita pepo) USDA Hardiness Zones: 3-11 Light: Full sun Soil: Rich, loamy, moist Cucumber Dill and cucumber are another great pair in both the kitchen as well as the garden. Cucumber beetles are a major threat to cucumbers, but fortunately, dill can help. Dill plants attract ladybugs, parasitic wasps, and green lacewings, all of which love to feast on cucumber beetles.3 Name: Cucumber (Cucumis sativus) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-11 Light: Full sun to partial shade Soil: Rich, well-draining, acidic to neutral Plants You Shouldn't Grow With Dill Although dill can be a beneficial companion plant for a wide variety of vegetables, herbs, and even flowers, not every plant will interact well with dill plants. Here are a few plants you should avoid growing near dill: Carrots: Avoid planting dill and carrots together, as the pair are members of the same plant family and can cross-pollinate. This is also true of celery, cilantro, caraway, and more.2 Peppers: Peppers, and other nightshades like eggplant and even tomatoes, are not the best companion plant for dill, because they consume the same type of nutrients, which may stunt your plants' growth.2 Lavender: Lavender and dill are not great companion plants, since both have different soil requirements. Dill prefers moist soil, while lavender likes its soil to dry between watering.45 Potatoes: Dill grows quickly and sometimes blocks light from reaching other growing plants like potatoes, which can stunt their growth.