How long does a Christmas tree last after cutting? Well, that depends on the tree variety, when the tree is cut, and how the tree is maintained through the holidays. While most experts agree that well-maintained Christmas trees last for about three to four weeks after cutting, some tree varieties stay fresh longer than others and environmental factors can cause trees to brown prematurely.1 If you want to make sure your Christmas tree looks fresh and festive through the holidays, here’s exactly when to go Christmas tree shopping—plus tips to help your tree last. How Long Does a Real Christmas Tree Last? Live Christmas trees typically stay fresh for about three to four weeks after cutting, but this varies depending on the tree species. For instance, pines and spruces are some of the most popular Christmas trees; however, these evergreens tend to dry out a bit faster and usually fade about two to three weeks after cutting. Firs and cypress trees, on the other hand, are better at holding onto their needles and often stay fresh for up to five weeks. If you want your Christmas tree to last as long as possible, select a Douglas fir, Fraser fir, or another sturdy species. When Should You Buy Your Real Christmas Tree? While you may be eager to start decking the halls, it’s important not to bring your Christmas tree home too early. After all, real Christmas trees have a limited lifespan after they’re cut, and purchasing a tree too early may leave you with a dry and brittle tree on Christmas day. To avoid this, aim to purchase your Christmas tree about three to four weeks before Christmas, and make sure to select the freshest tree you can find. 8 Tips to Keep It Looking Great All Season No matter what type of Christmas tree you choose or how to decide to decorate it, here are a few simple ways to ensure your tree stays fresh through Christmas and beyond. Buy Locally Big box stores often sell Christmas trees around the holidays; however, these trees are usually transported to the store from out of state and they’re not that fresh. For a fresher option, purchase your Christmas tree from a local tree farm or go to a cut-your-own tree farm for the freshest trees around. If you’re purchasing a pre-cut tree, don’t be afraid to ask when the tree was cut. Inspect the Tree Before settling on the Christmas tree of your dreams, check the tree over carefully for brown branches and brittle needles. If possible, give the tree a strong shake or run your hand along its branches and watch how many needles fall away. Fresh trees should be lush and green and they shouldn’t drop more than a few needles. Trim the Trunk Unless your Christmas tree was cut less than six to eight hours ago, you’ll need to trim some of the trunk away or ask someone at the tree lot to trim your tree for you. After evergreen trees are cut, resinous sap starts to flow and it can seal up the tree’s trunk and keep Christmas trees from absorbing water in their stand. However, trimming just a thin, straight slice off the trunk’s base should open the trunk up and improve water flow. Select a Suitable Stand When selecting a stand for your Christmas tree, choose a sturdy stand with a roomy water reservoir that’s at least 1 gallon in size. The stand should be appropriately sized for your tree and you should never need to whittle the tree’s trunk down to make it fit. Christmas trees need intact trunks to absorb water correctly. Add Water Even if you don’t intend to decorate your tree right away, put your Christmas tree in water as soon as you bring it home and keep the stand filled with water as long as your tree is up. Clean, fresh water is the best choice for Christmas trees, and preservatives and other additives aren’t recommended. In fact, preservatives can actually make trees dry out prematurely.2 Check the Reservoir Regularly Christmas trees can absorb a gallon of water a day and tree stands will dry out even faster if your home is dry or if your pets have a taste for drinking Christmas tree water. To keep your tree lush, check your tree stand daily and refill the stand before it runs dry. If you often forget to water, you may want to invest in an automatic tree watering system. Use LED Lights String lights make Christmas trees sparkle and glow, but heat-producing incandescent lights can dehydrate Christmas tree needles. A better option is LED string lights, which produce less heat and also use less energy. For best results and energy savings, select mini LED lights if you can find them and put your string lights on an automatic timer. Adjust the Temperature Fireplaces, space heaters, and other heating units make the holidays feel cozy, but they also dry out Christmas trees. To avoid prematurely dry needles, position your Christmas tree away from heat sources and direct sun, and consider turning your thermostat down to 70 degrees Fahrenheit or less. Adding a humidifier near your tree may keep it green a little longer too.

Looking for another edible edition to your garden? Pepper plants are a winning choice. With a range of low-maintenance varieties available and a pepper to suit every garden size and tastebud preference, you'll quickly be able to grow your own harvest. As with any new crop in the garden, there are helpful tips and care requirements worth understanding that'll make the process easier for you, leading to more peppers and fewer stressful days trying to communicate with a not-so-happy plant. Once you've settled on your fruit (or veggie to some) of choice, brush up your knowledge on these tips and care pointers, below. Your Quick Guide for Growing Peppers Give peppers at least six hours of full light each day Plant peppers in slightly acidic soil that's warm and moist Grow peppers after the last frost so they stay warm and healthy Peppers can take up to three months to be ripe and ready for harvesting Pick peppers based on what ripeness looks like for their variety Which Peppers Should You Grow? Excited by the thought of growing a peck of peppers? Start by choosing the right variety. Zahid Adnan, gardening expert and founder of The Plant Bible, recommends starting with versatile varieties like bell peppers, jalapeños, or Anaheim peppers. "They're relatively easy to grow and offer a spectrum of flavors and heat levels," he says. Starting Peppers From Seed Growing peppers from seed isn't too difficult and is one of the more popular ways, aside from transplanting or buying young plants. The best indication of when you can start peppers from seeds will come from the last frost date in your area. Adnan says you can plant the seeds indoors eight to 10 weeks before the last frost date. Gather small containers for the seeds and push them down into warm and moist seed starting mix. (He says to aim for a temperature between 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit). This gives them time to start cultivating before they're brought outside. Planting Peppers Whether you've planted from seed or are planning to transplant, you'll likely want to bring your pepper plants outside for the best chance of survival and the most comfortable life. "Once seedlings have developed true leaves, transplant them into larger pots or directly into the garden after all danger of frost has passed," says Adnan. After planting, you can expect peppers to start fruiting and reach maturity between 65 and 85 days depending on the care they receive and the variety of pepper, according to Adnan. Caring for Peppers Once your peppers are in the ground, they won't ask for anything too strenuous—most varieties are relatively easy plants to grow and cultivate. By ensuring they get the light, water, and soil necessary for them to thrive, you can have a healthy harvest in a few months. Outside of the basics, Adnan notes to be aware of how your variety of pepper grows. While some stay lower to the ground, taller varieties will need some kind of trellis or stake. This supports them as they grow and will prevent breakage under the weight of fruit. Light Peppers love sunlight, whether planted in a bed or in containers on your deck. Adnan says they should be positioned to receive at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight. While they love sun, just be conscious of any recently pruned areas that may not be used to that level of exposure and can burn or leave room for the fruits to burn. Soil Peppers do best in slightly acidic soil—a pH between 6.0 and 6.8 is ideal. Soil should drain well and stay warm as they grow, hence why post-frost planting is important. This is particularly important for pepper plants and seeds that have been sown or transplanted. As for fertilization? Adnan says the occasional sprinkling of a balanced fertilizer is okay. Too much can boost the look of the leaves but hinder fruit production. Watering Balanced watering is important, too. Adnan says regular watering is important for keeping the soil moist. Ensure that you distribute it evenly across the pepper patch or pot and it's not funneling to just one part of the soil. Moisture is key, but be careful not to overwater. "Mulching around the base of the plants can help retain moisture and suppress weeds," he adds. Pepper Problems & How to Fix Them Peppers can run into a few issues while they're growing. These are the most common pests and diseases that can afflict your plants and how to deal with them. Pests The most common pests that go after peppers, according to Adnan, are aphids, flea beetles, and pepper maggots—the latter being fly larvae that specifically target peppers1 by burrowing into the fruit. Adnan says the best way to defend your plants is through frequent monitoring and using insecticidal soap or neem oil to combat infestations. Plant Diseases There are a handful of diseases that peppers are capable of developing. These include bacterial leaf spot, powdery mildew, and phytophthora blight. While they may sound disastrous, preventing them is fairly straightforward. Adnan says to focus on measures such as crop rotation, proper spacing, and avoiding overhead watering. Harvesting Peppers As mentioned, peppers can take a couple of months to appear on your plant. It will depend on the pepper variety, but when the fruit has fully become its intended color and size and has a glossy sheen, they're likely ready to be plucked. If you're worried about pepper picking influencing the growth rate, Adnan is here to ease your concerns. He notes regular harvesting can encourage your plant to produce more fruit.

Covering a tree's roots above ground can limit the tree's access to oxygen and moisture which helps them grow and stay healthy. Avoid cutting, trimming, or removing tree roots because it can make the tree woody and unstable, especially during storms. To discourage root growth at the surface level, try using mulch to cover the roots, loosen compacted soil, or hire a pro arborist. Despite their seemingly breezy maintenance requirements, trees can be tricky to care for especially if not done properly—this also extends to their root systems. Is it better, for instance, to cover tree roots or leave them alone? To gather these answers and more, we reached out to an expert tree arborist to share their best insights. Meet the Expert Eric North is a certified arborist and urban forestry program manager at the Arbor Day Foundation, the world’s largest tree-planting nonprofit planting trees. Should You Cover Your Tree Roots Above Ground? No, you should not cover the tree’s roots. according to Eric North, a certified arborist and urban forestry program manager at the Arbor Day Foundation. “Oxygen and moisture are typically most available to tree roots in the open pore spaces of the upper soil, often in the upper 18 to 24 inches,” he explains. So, the deeper you go, the more compact the soil gets, which means less space for the oxygen and moisture tree roots need. If you cover the tree’s roots, the tree will only work harder to reach closer to the soil’s surface to reach water and nutrients. All the more reason not to cover your tree’s roots. “The exception to this is when soil erosion or any other disruption to the soil environment exposes fine roots that had been below the soil surface,” North explains. In cases such as these, you can add some soil to cover any newly exposed roots. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Don’t Cut Your Tree Roots But above all, don’t trim your tree’s roots. Avoid trimming, cutting, or removing tree roots when the tree is young or old. “As roots continue to age, they become woody and their primary role changes to providing energy storage and stability for the tree,” North says. So, damaging even old roots can kill the tree’s roots, result in a reduction in the tree’s growth, or lead to unstable trees that will need to be straightened or else may fall down during storms. What to Do Instead It’s normal for roots to want to be near the soil’s surface. North explains how when roots grow near or at the soil surface, it’s typically because that’s where the most ideal conditions exist. However, there are several things you can still do to discourage root growth at the surface level. Correct the soil conditions at the time of planting. Loosen compacted soil and add in some new organic matter (such as compost). Hire a certified professional arborist to improve compacted soils and encourage root growth below the soil surface. Professional arborists have tools that use pressurized air to blow away and loosen soil without minimal damage to existing roots. Cover the tree roots with mulch. This will help the soil retain moisture while remaining covered by the mulch. Are Exposed Roots a Sign of Good or Poor Tree Health? Trees have adapted to a wide range of conditions, and their roots spread out to help them find the most nutrients. Above-ground roots are not necessarily indicators of tree health, North says. However, they can be a reasonable indicator of soil conditions. “Surface roots frequently form when soils are heavily compacted or there is a high-water table,” North says. Both situations can impact your tree’s ability to gather water and nutrients. Are Some Trees More Prone to Above Soil Roots? Yes, some tree species are genetically prone to producing shallow roots, North says. This can include such species and varieties as Ficus, mountain spruces, and trees adapted to areas prone to flooding. “In this latter case, the shallow roots nature is likely an evolutionary adaptation to manage limited resources,” he says.

Rosemary is great for an herb garden thanks to its fragrant and gentle nature. But like all evergreen shrubs, rosemary needs repeated pruning to help maintain the plant and keep it growing healthy. “With a plant like rosemary, whenever you make a cut above a leaf node, the plant will produce two new stems from that cut,” Annette Hird, gardener at Easy Urban Gardens, says. Hence, pruning rosemary helps the plant grow new leaves. But finding the right balance in terms of pruning is crucial. We chatted with an expert gardener to find out when, why, and how to prune rosemary. To keep this plant thriving in your herb garden, follow these helpful tips. Why Should You Prune Rosemary Plants? It’s important to prune rosemary because the plant can overgrow on one side, creating an uneven-looking shrub that leans woody in appearance. “Like any other perennial, rosemary benefits from pruning to keep the plant compact, bushy, and prevent it from becoming too woody,” Hird says. But also, pruning can encourage growth. Every time you cut above a leaf node, rosemary will produce more stems, resulting in an overall bigger and healthier plant. When Should You Prune Rosemary Plants? Rosemary responds best to pruning after it's done flowering. This can vary depending on your region and climate. Hird personally prunes her rosemary plants in early spring since they tend to flower over winter. However, it's important to not prune rosemary in late winter, especially during frost. This is because new growth needs some time to mature before winter snow. If the plant doesn’t harden in time, the plant will become too cold and could die from exposure. The safest time to prune is during the warmer months in summer. As long as you follow these general guidelines, you can prune your plant on and off throughout the year to use in recipes. “With it being an herb, you’re going to be snipping off sprigs at different times anyway,” Hird says. How to Prune Rosemary Plants Follow these steps to ensure you are pruning your rosemary plant right. Evaluate Plant Evaluate your plant’s overall look and determine where the plant is overgrowing. Then, Hird recommends cutting back any branches that are growing outside the general framework of the plant. Cut the overgrown areas of the plant, working your way around your rosemary to shape it as you like. Cut Away Damaged Areas While trimming, cut away broken or diseased sections of the plant. Just be sure to cut below the damaged areas. If you cut into the wood of the plant, these areas will not grow back, and you will be doing more harm than good. Help Its Growth If your goal is to make your plant smaller, this is the time to cut the taller sections of the plant. “For tall upright branches, cut them back by about a third to reduce the height,” Hird says. It's important to cut back a set of leaves or growth points since this helps with the continued growth. For branches that you haven’t cut, remove a short section above a leaf node. This will again encourage more growth later. How to Prune Young Rosemary Plants Still in their early growth stages, younger rosemary plants can easily be shaped into topiaries or trimmed lightly to encourage faster growth. Prune After Flowering Prune your rosemary in spring to early summer after it flowers. You don’t want to prune the plant too early because this could cause undue stress on the plant, as it's actively maturing. Cut Above the Leaf Node Be sure to cut just above a leaf node. “This is known as tip pruning. You just snip off the very tips of each branch to promote new growth,” Hird says. Shape Plants It's easy to shape younger rosemary plants into topiary spheres or hedges. If you like to shape your rosemary shrub, prune the stems a bit shorter until the plant takes the shape you want. Preserve Some Cuttings Save a few cuttings if you would like to propagate more rosemary plants. Younger rosemary plants, not older ones, are the easiest to propagate, as they are already actively growing all the time. Dip the cut end into a rooting hormone and plant the rosemary cutting in a pot to root. Use Rosemary Alternatively, if you don’t wish to plant more rosemary, this would be a great time to sample the plant in your recipes. Young, tender rosemary stems tend to be the most flavorful, adding the sweetest flavors to your dishes if you cut the sprigs of rosemary early in its life.