vegetables

After putting in all the effort that goes into hollowing out and carving jack-o-lanterns, no one wants to see their carved pumpkins spoil before Halloween. But, pumpkins only last for about 3 to 5 days after carving (and spoil even faster in warm weather). With Halloween just around the corner, I wanted to find out how to keep pumpkins from rotting, so I took to the internet and tracked down three viral hacks that allegedly keep pumpkins fresh longer. I gave the hacks a test run on my own pumpkins and here are the results. The Test I started my test in early October when the temperatures were around 60 degrees F during the day. I purchased 4 pumpkins that were similar in size, color, and texture to keep the test as consistent as possible. I even carved (or tried to) the same face onto each picture-perfect pumpkin. I did keep one pumpkin as a control to get a clear idea of how long pumpkins last in the conditions around my home. Below is the lineup of hacks that I tried: Diluted bleach spray: I sprayed one pumpkin daily, inside and out, with a diluted bleach spray made with 1 part bleach to 9 parts water. Hair spray: I sprayed one pumpkin, inside and out, with hair spray and applied this treatment only once after carving the pumpkin. Coconut oil: I rubbed coconut oil, inside and out, on one pumpkin and applied this treatment one time, right after carving. It's also biodegradable and compostable. Day 1 I cleaned the exterior of all the pumpkins with diluted bleach, carved them, applied the treatments to the test pumpkins, and set the pumpkins outside without candles. All three treatments were easy to apply, although the coconut oil was slightly messy. By evening, the control pumpkin and the pumpkin sprayed with bleach looked a little dry around their carved edges, but the other two pumpkins still looked fresh. Day 3 The weather remained warm and sunny through day 3 and, by the third day, that warmth was starting to take its toll on the control pumpkin and the pumpkin treated with bleach. These two pumpkins had already developed small patches of dark mold on their interiors, although their carved edges still looked mold-free and fresh enough for display. There was no visible mold on the hairspray and coconut oil pumpkins, but the skin near the carved sections of the hairspray pumpkin had darkened. Day 5 The difference in the pumpkins was undeniable by day 5. The weather was still pleasant and warm and all 4 pumpkins had at least some mold growing on their interiors; however, the coconut oil pumpkin had significantly less mold than the other three pumpkins and its carving still looked fresh. The hairspray pumpkin had a fair amount of mold on its interior but was still displayable. The control and bleach pumpkins, however, had mold growing along their carved eyes and mouths and did not look fresh. Days 6 through 10 Most pumpkin lovers would have disposed of the control and bleach pumpkins by day 5 or 6 due to visible mold, but I kept the experiment going a little longer. By day 10, all four pumpkins had dark mold on their interiors and carved sections, but the coconut oil pumpkin had much less mold than the other pumpkins. The carved edges of the coconut oil pumpkin also looked fresher and displayed less wrinkling and warping. Final Verdict Honorable mention: the hairspray treatment, which did appear to repel mold better than the bleach treatment. The clear winner: coconut oil. While the coconut oil treatment was messier to apply, it kept the pumpkin’s carved edges from drying out, significantly inhibited mold growth by at least 3 days compared to the control, and kept the pumpkin in displayable shape for at least 10 days. Considering the results of this experiment, I plan to wipe the pumpkins I carve for trick-or-treat night down with coconut oil after I carve them. But I’m also going to carve those pumpkins when the weather is cooler to help them stay fresh even longer.

Planting onion sets or slips in autumn has some distinct advantages and is much like planting garlicor shallots. But success isn't always guaranteed. Timing, along with your specific growing zone, and choosing the right onion variety all make a difference between big, flavorful bulbs and small bulbs or ones that fail to develop. This guide tells you when and how to plant autumn onions for a bountiful harvest the following spring and summer. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Why Plant Onions in Fall? Onions establish and develop green tops and roots in cooler weather which translates to bigger and more flavorful bulbs. In northern zones, spring planted onions need to get into the ground early which can be challenging unless you have already prepared a raised bed or garden area. Setting them out in autumn gives plants a head start, allowing them to establish before winter frost and freezing. After several frosts, plants go dormant. When temperatures start to rise in spring and day hours lengthen, your onions are ready to direct energy into growing bulbs. Keeping autumn-planted onions free of weeds is easier as many garden weeds have died back. How to Plant Onions in Fall Both sets and slips (young plants) need four to six weeks to establish tops and roots before frost sets in. Find the first frost date in your zone and back time to find out the best day/s for planting. Start by digging a trench 2 to 3 inches deep and 2 inches wide. Fill the bottom of the trench with an inch or two of well-aged compost. Place the sets or slips about 1/2 inch into the compost layer allowing 4 to 6 inches in between each onion. Place sets with the pointed end facing up. Fill the rest of the trench with soil, covering the onion with about 1/2 inch of soil. If you start with slips, leave any green tops above the soil surface. Water and mulch with a thin layer of straw or dried leaves. Once new green growth appears, add more mulch and continue to water every few days. You'll need a mulch layer of at least 6 inches to protect roots when ground freezes. Best Onions for Fall Planting Onion sets are widely available in spring, sold as yellow, white, or red, and often not identified by variety. Try searching online or in garden catalogs to find sets or slips for autumn planting. Look for varieties most successful in your growing zone. Onions are categorized as short-day, intermediate, or long-day. Keep in mind that sets need 80 days and slips need up to 110 days to mature from the time they're planted. Here are a few onion varieties to consider for autumn planting. 'Electric': Winter hardy with shiny red skin and pink-tinged flesh. Mild, sweet flavor. 'Radar': Yellow, globe-shaped Japanese variety. Mild flavor and good bolt resistance. 'Snowball': A short-day variety with medium-sized, slightly flattened bulbs. A mild but tangy onion best for eating fresh. 'Granex': Large, globe-shaped bulbs are mild and sweet. A short-day variety and a popular choice for southern gardens. 'Walla Walla': Extra large bulbs mature in 90 days. This long day type is comparable to Vidalia onion in flavor. Spring and Summer Harvesting Once soil warms in spring and day time hours increase, autumn planted onions start forming bulbs. Short day onions are the quickest to bulb up and ready to harvest in as few as 75 days in late April and early May. Intermediate and long day types will be ready to harvest from early to mid summer. The sooner daylight hours reach the time needed for bulbing, the sooner you'll be able to harvest good size onions. When bulbs are mature, they sit partially above soil level and the green tops turn yellow and flop over. Mature bulbs can remain in the ground for one or two weeks but if left too long they become vulnerable to thrips and can soften and rot.

Yellowing green bean leaves are not always cause for concern—they can sometimes be a natural sign of aging in bean plants. But if you see leaves on green beans turning yellow mid-season, or if your plants are becoming less productive, it could be due to fungal, bacterial, or environmental stressors. Here are 6 common reasons why bean leaves turn yellow, plus simple, organic solutions to help your plants recover. Watering Stress Underwatering and overwatering can cause yellowing bean leaves, making it difficult to know exactly what’s going on with your plants. The best way to determine if your plants receive too much or too little water is to insert your finger into the soil. If the soil feels soggy and you haven’t watered recently, your plants are likely overwatered and root rot may be settling in. How to Fix Beans should receive about 1 inch of water per week. If you often forget to water, apply a layer of mulch around the base of your plants to keep the soil from drying out too quickly, and consider installing an automated drip irrigation system. If your plants are overwatered, adjust your watering schedule, scrape the mulch away from around your plant, and allow the soil to dry out before watering again. Lighting Issues Beans need at least 8 hours of direct light daily to grow. In low-light conditions, beans may develop yellowing leaves, but too much bright light can cause yellowing leaves, too. How to Fix Beans are difficult to transplant once established, but you can avoid lighting stress by choosing a growing spot that receives 8 to 10 hours of daily light. Nutrient Deficiencies Although beans fix nitrogen, they can still suffer from nutritional deficiencies in poor soil. Nutrient deficiencies produce different symptoms depending on what nutrients are missing; however, most deficiencies result in stunted plant growth and yellowing leaves with visible, green veins. How to Fix Testing your soil every few years and adding an annual application of compost is the best way to avoid plant nutrient deficiencies. You may also want to fertilize beans with an all-purpose fertilizer, adjust the pH of alkaline soils, and apply a legume inoculant to bean seeds before planting. Inoculants boost nitrogen fixation and make it easier for beans to absorb nutrients. Plant Diseases Diseases caused by bacteria, fungi, and viruses can produce yellowing bean leaves and other symptoms. Bacterial blight usually produces brown leaf spots with yellow halos. Bean mosaic virus may develop cupped or puckered leaves with a mottled yellow mosaic pattern. Fungal issues, like white mold and bean rust, may also produce leaf spots and yellow lesions, especially in overcrowded gardens. How to Fix Purchasing disease-resistant seeds from reliable seed companies can keep some plant diseases out of your garden. However, you can also reduce diseases by rotating crops, watering beans at the soil line, weeding regularly, following proper spacing guidelines, and destroying infested plant material at the end of the season. Pests While pests can cause yellowing leaves through the spread of plant diseases, sap-sucking pests may also directly cause yellowing leaves by feeding on plant sap. Pest damage typically presents as tiny dots or speckles on affected leaves, but pests may also skeletonize or chew holes in bean leaves. How to Fix Aphids, thrips, bean beetles, and spider mites are some of the most common bean pests, but these pests can be controlled with handpicking, organic soap sprays, and companion planting. Strongly scented herbs and flowers, like marigolds and nasturtiums, are especially good companion plants for natural pest control. Natural Processes While pests, diseases, and environmental stresses can cause bean leaves to yellow, aging bean plants may also develop yellowing leaves at the end of the growing season. Yellowing leaves caused by natural aging usually occur towards the base of the plant, and leaf yellowing may be exacerbated by cool temperatures. How to Fix Yellowing leaves that occur late in the growing season are a part of the natural aging process of bean plants and they signal that bean plants are reaching the end of their life. There is no need to address yellowing leaves caused by natural aging; however, you may be able to extend your bean growing season a little longer by installing season extension products, like row covers. 3 Additional Tips to Grow Great Green Beans If you want your bean plants to be even more productive, try out these quick and easy bean care tips! Trellising. Bush-type beans don’t need trellises, but pole and vining beans grow better with support. Cattle panel trellises are one of the best solutions if you want to grow lots of beans together, but you can also make DIY bean supports with bamboo poles or upcycled tomato cages. Spacing. To avoid fungal issues and other plant diseases, space bean plants at least 6 inches apart in rows that are at least 18 to 24 inches from each other. Harvesting. Regularly harvesting beans will make plants more productive, but don’t tug on bean pods when you harvest. Instead, pinch or cut bean pods off the plant so you don’t accidentally damage tender stems.

Dozens of pepper varieties can be grown in the home garden. Once you find your favorites, you may never have to purchase seeds again—turns out, you can save pepper seeds easily to plant next year. Follow our simple steps on how to save pepper seeds for a huge haul of future pepper plants. Which Peppers Can You Save Seeds From? Saving pepper seeds requires a bit of planning to get the best and most viable seeds for next season's planting. If you are growing hybrid peppers (F1 is printed after the name on the seed packet), the seeds will not produce the same pepper next year. When saving pepper seeds, open-pollinated, will produce new plants of the same variety. When Should You Collect Pepper Seeds? Seeds should only be collected from mature peppers. Unripe fruit does not produce viable seeds. The peppers should be mature but not overly ripe, diseased, or beginning to mold. Seeds can be collected from freshly picked peppers or from peppers that have been allowed to dry for several months off the vine. How to Remove Seeds from Peppers To remove the seeds, cut open the pepper and gently rub or shake the seeds from the center of the fruit. You can use a fine mesh or paper towel to catch the seeds. How to Dry Pepper Seeds Dried Peppers If the seeds have been removed from peppers that have been allowed to dry off the vine for three to four months, they may not require any additional drying. If they feel slightly damp, spread the seeds on a baking sheet and dry in the oven at 100 degrees F. for two hours. Fresh Peppers If you have saved seeds from a fresh pepper, the flesh should be rinsed away from the seeds. You can do this by placing the seeds in a bowl of cool water and gently swishing them around with your hands. The loose pepper flesh and immature seeds will float the top and can be skimmed off. You can also place the seeds in a fine mesh colander and rinse them under water. After rinsing, allow the seeds to dry on a paper towel or a mesh screen in a cool location until the seeds are dry enough to break when pressed with a fingernail. To speed drying, spread the seeds on a clean baking tray and dry at 100 degrees F. for about six hours. Where to Store Pepper Seeds When the seeds are dry, they can be stored in small glass jars, paper bags, or any moisture-proof container. Always label the container with the date and the type of pepper. Store seeds in a cool, dark, dry location or a freezer. If they are stored in an area that is too warm or moist, the seeds may begin to germinate or mold and become no longer viable. How to Know If Pepper Seeds Are Still Good Pepper seeds will produce the best results if planted the next year but can be viable for up to five years. You can do one of these tests to predict if the seeds are still good. Germination test: Place 10 to 15 seeds with plenty of space between each seed on several layers of damp paper towels. Fold the towels and place them in a sealable plastic bag. Put the bag in a warm spot for two weeks. Remove the towels from the bag and count how many seeds have sprouted to get a percentage of viable seeds for planting. Floater test: Place the seeds in a bowl of water and remove any that float. Floating seeds are less viable than the dense seeds that have developed a seed embryo. Plant immediately or allow to dry thoroughly if storing longer.

The popularity of butternut squash among home gardeners is not surprising. With its dense, sweet, and slightly nutty flesh, it is one of the most versatile winter squashes. It also comes in compact, bush varieties that fit small spaces, such as Butterbush, and it’s easy to grow. To fully enjoy the fruits of your labor, follow these tips about how and when to harvest butternut squash as well as necessary post-harvest steps, including curing and proper storage. If you haven’t eaten it all by then, it will let you put dishes made from your homegrown butternut squash on your Thanksgiving table. When to Harvest Butternut Squash Butternut squash is ready to harvest when you notice a few key signs: it turns from green to orange, the rind is hard, and the stem/vines have dried up and died back. Once you can check all the boxes, you don’t have to harvest it right away. Just make sure you harvest all the butternut squash before the first fall frost, as it will store longer if it isn’t exposed to frost. Color As butternut squash ripens, its skin turns from green to a light beige to a deep, solid tan color and no green streaks. Depending on the variety there might be some bronze or orange highlights (and no green streaks) in it when the fruit is ripe. Skin The skin or rind should be hard and pass the fingernail test: when scratching it with your fingernail leaves a mark or breaks, the butternut squash isn’t ready; it needs for time for the skin to harden. Another indicator is dull and not glossy or shiny skin. Vines and Stems The vines should be crispy, shriveled, and yellowing, in other words, dying when the butternut squash is ready. Green vines indicate that the butternut squash needs more time. The stem should be hard and dry and of uniform tan color. How to Harvest Butternut Squash When it’s time to harvest the squash, follow these steps: Using a sharp knife or pruners, cut the fruit from the vine about 3 to 4 inches of the stem on the squash. Do not lift or pick up the squash by its stem when removing it from your garden, as the stem easily breaks off. If any stems break off, set those squashes aside to use first. Butternut squashes without stems are more prone to rotting and won’t store well because bacteria can enter the fruit. Curing Butternut Squash After harvesting, it is important to let the skin of the squash harden more. In the process, any scratches or cuts are being sealed. This process is called curing. Cure the butternut squash for 1 to 2 weeks at a temperature between 70 and 80 degrees F.1 Pick a location that is warm, well-ventilated, dry, and not accessible for critters and insects. A screened-in porch, garage, or shed is ideal. Storing Butternut Squash After curing, store the butternut squash in a cool, dry, well-ventilated location at 50 to 60 degrees F.1 Make sure there are no apples, pears, or other ripening fruit nearby, as the ethylene gas they exude affects the storage life of squash. Properly cured and stored butternut squash can be stored for 4 to 6 months but it is best when used within 2 to 3 months. Saving Seeds of Butternut Squash If you want to save the seeds of your butternut squash, make sure that it is an open-pollinated variety; otherwise, the plants from those seeds won’t be true to seed and won’t have the same desirable qualities. Extract the seeds when you are using one of the squashes for cooking. However, don’t cut the squash open in half all the way as you would normally do because cutting through will damage the seeds. Only cut through the skin and top layer of the squash from top to bottom and as deeply as needed to split the squash open into two halves. Remove as much of the stringy pulp around the seeds as possible, then place the seeds in a large bowl with cold water and swirl them around to dislodge more pulp. Pour the pulpy water off the top and keep the seeds at the bottom of the bowl. Repeat this a couple of times. Drain the seeds in a fine strainer and place them in a single layer on plates lined with paper towels. Place them in a dry place out of direct sunlight for about one week, or until they are thoroughly dried. Store them in labeled envelopes in a dry, dark place.

When the weather grows chilly and the days get short, you know pumpkin season has arrived. The quintessential fall crop, pumpkins are typically harvested when the rinds develop their mature coloration, or about 90 to 120 days after sowing. It can be difficult to know exactly when to harvest pumpkins since not all pumpkins turn orange at harvest time (and some varieties mature faster than others). If you’re perplexed by picking pumpkins, these tips will help you harvest sugary sweet pie pumpkins and sturdy carving pumpkins at the perfect time. When to Harvest Pumpkins Different pumpkin varieties mature at different rates, but most pumpkins are harvested from late August through October. To get a better idea of exactly when your pumpkins will be ready, take a look at your seed packet. Most pumpkins are harvested about 90 days after planting, but giant pumpkins and other slow growers can take over 160 days to ripen. 5 Signs Your Pumpkin Is Ready to Pick Pumpkins have a longer shelf life and a sweeter flavor if they’re allowed to fully ripen in the garden. But mature pumpkins can vary significantly in shape, size, and color, which can make it hard to know exactly when they’re ready to harvest. If you want to pick pumpkins at the right time, these signs of ripeness will let you know when your pumpkins are ready. They developed their mature color. While most people associate ripe pumpkins with the color orange, different pumpkin varieties may produce yellow, white, or even greenish-blue fruit! Knowing what color your pumpkins are supposed to be when mature will help you judge when your pumpkins are ripe. The vines are brown and dying. Pumpkins continue to grow as long as their vines are green. But when cold weather hits and the pumpkin vines start to brown and shrivel, it’s time to harvest! Rinds feel tough. Pumpkin rinds thicken as the fruit ages and fully ripe pumpkins should have leathery rinds that are difficult to pierce with your fingernail. Skin is dull. Underripe pumpkins often have glossy skins that catch the sunlight, while ripe pumpkins have dull, matte rinds. The sound is hollow. If you’ve ever knocked on a ripe pumpkin with your knuckles, you know they sound a bit hollow. That’s because pumpkins develop more interior air pockets when they reach a harvestable size. 6 Tips for Harvesting Pumpkins Pumpkins can be harvested one at a time as the fruit ripens, or you can harvest the entire plant in one go if the vine has started to die away. Here are a few tips to make harvesting even easier and protect your pumpkin crop from damage: Wear gloves. Pumpkins have prickly stems and leaves, which can irritate the skin if you don’t wear gloves when harvesting. Harvest on a sunny day. Although pumpkins can technically be harvested in any weather, harvesting pumpkins on a dry, sunny day helps pumpkins cure faster and keeps plant diseases from spreading. Make a clean cut. Fully ripe pumpkins often have dried stems that detach easily from the pumpkin vine. If the stems still feel sturdy, harvest your pumpkins with sharp pruners so you don’t accidentally damage the plant. Leave some stem. Pumpkin stems add a bit of charm, but they also prevent fungi and bacteria from seeping into pumpkins and causing rot. Be gentle. To avoid breaks and bruises, handle your pumpkins gently and never carry them by their stems. Pick pumpkins before a hard freeze. It’s best to leave pumpkins in the garden until they’re fully ripe, but pumpkins should always be harvested before a hard freeze. As long as the pumpkins have started to develop their mature color, they should ripen just fine indoors. How to Store Pumpkins While pumpkins can be eaten or carved immediately after harvesting, pumpkins intended for long-term storage should be cured to thicken up their skins and reduce the chances of rot. Before curing, rinse your pumpkins in a 10% bleach solution and allow them to air dry. Spread your harvest out in a single layer in a warm, dry, and protected spot, and allow the pumpkins to dry and cure for 1 to 2 weeks. After curing, store your pumpkins in a cool location, like a well-ventilated root cellar, or keep them outdoors on a covered porch. Pumpkins stay fresh longer if you store them out of direct sun and keep them in a cool spot that stays between 45 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Whole pumpkins also last longer than carved ones, so wait until just before Halloween to carve jack-o-lanterns.

If you're growing potatoes (Solanum tuberosum) in your garden, you might be surprised to see them start to bloom. While we grow potatoes for their edible tubers that develop underground, it's important for potato plants to mature above the surface, too. Depending on the potato variety, potato flowers can come in a range of different colors and shapes. But should they be removed? What Potato Flowers Look Like Potatoes are a nightshade, a family of flowering plants that also includes plants like tomatoes, eggplant, and peppers. Because of this, potato flowers have a similar shape to tomato or eggplant flowers. Different potato varieties produce different flower types—some might be large and vivid, while others smaller and clustered. Potato flowers can be white, purple, pink, blue, or red, with anthers (the part of the stamen that contains pollen) that can be yellow, red, or dark purple. The blooms' coloring can sometimes serve as clues to the possible colors of the skin and flesh of the potatoes growing underneath the soil. Why Potatoes Produce Flowers Flowering is a normal part of a potato plant's lifecycle, and their presence indicate the plant is healthy and maturing properly. Generally, potato plants will start flowering a few weeks before the potatoes are ready to be harvested. You should harvest baby potatoes (new potatoes) two to three weeks after they've finished flowering, and harvest potatoes for storing (mature potatoes) two to three weeks after the plant's foliage has died back. Like other flowering plants, a potato plant produce blooms in order to reproduce. If pollinated, potato blossoms will grow small green fruits that resemble underripe cherry tomatoes. Each potato berry contains around 300 seeds that can technically be planted and used to grow more potato plants. However, these green potato berries contain solanine, which is very toxic even in small amounts, and they should not be eaten. And most potatoes are grown from seed potatoes, a potato that has been grown to be replanted to produce a potato crop. If your potato plants aren't producing flowers, don't fret. Potatoes don't always bloom, and the flowers are not required to produce tubers. In fact, some potato varieties barely produce blooms at all—whether or not a potato plant flowers doesn't affect the quality or quantity of the potatoes it produces. What to Do When a Potato Plant Flowers When you see your potato plant start to produce flowers, this is an indication that tubers are developing underground and will be reader to pull up from the ground soon. When you see them blooming, you can either prune them away or leave them be—your decision will depend on a number of different factors. If you're growing potatoes in an area that small children or pets can easily get to, it is wise to remove the potato flowers to prevent them from developing into toxic green potato berries. Removing the potato flowers might also help increase potato yield, as the energy the plant would normally send to produce fruits and seeds is redirected to forming the tubers below the ground. However, removing potato flowers is an optional step. If their presence is non-threatening to children or pets, it's perfectly fine to let your potato plants flower if you want to enjoy their vibrant blossoms.

If you’ve tried growing spinach but struggle to get this leafy green to do well when temperatures soar, why not try lesser-known orach (also known as mountain spinach) instead? This fast-growing, hardy, ornamental annual is more resistant to heat and drought while packing a similar nutritious punch. It's a forgiving plant that grows in most soils, but it needs a full sun position and prefers an evenly moist, rich medium to produce the healthiest harvest. Orach Care Here are the main care requirements for growing beginner-friendly orach: Position in full sun. Plant in a well-draining, moist soil to prevent bolting. Fertilize regularly or amend soil with organic matter. Prune tall plants to produce the most flavorsome leaves. Light While orach is a hardy and forgiving plant, one thing that’s essential for good growth is a full sun position. Soil Orach grows well in most soils, provided they are well-draining. However, it prefers loamy soils that are organically rich and with an element of moisture-retentiveness. This plant tolerates a wide range of pH levels and is ideal for highly alkaline soils, which some species struggle with. Orach is also known for being tolerant of high levels of salinity. Water While orach is a reasonably drought-tolerant plant, insufficient water typically results in bolting. This premature seed production means the leaf harvest might not be usable. It's best to water freely in dry conditions to keep the soil evenly moist without letting the roots stand in water. Adding a layer of moisture-retaining mulch can be helpful during periods of drought. Temperature and Humidity Orach is adaptable to a wide range of temperatures. One of its biggest advantages is its heat tolerance. It does best in temperate climates, with temperatures between 40°F to 75°F. However, you can still enjoy a bountiful, tasty harvest during a heatwave, provided you keep the soil moist. Light freezes aren't a problem for orach, but when they are sustained, the plant will die. Orach is also good for exposed sites, as strong winds don't phase it. Fertilizer Fast-growing orach loves rich, fertile soils, so consider amending the soil with organic matter such as leaf mold compost or manure. A couple of times during the growing season, you can also offer an additional nutrient boost by feeding an NPK fertilizer formula that is high in nitrogen. This ensures the focus is on foliage growth. Types of Orach Tall-growing, leafy orach is often grown for its ornamental value as well as its nutritious leaves, and this is especially true of the ‘Fire Red’ cultivar. The red shade on the leaves remains even after cooking, making it an attractive addition to decorative dishes. There are also white (pale green) and green (dark green) color variations. Pruning Orach can grow to 6 feet tall. However, keeping it low by clipping helps produce tender leaves that aren't too bitter. Pruning and ample water also help reduce the chance of bolting during hot, dry periods. Propagating Orach It's easiest to propagate fast-growing orach by directly sowing the seeds in your garden anytime from March to August. If you want a successive supply of leaves through the growing season, sow at four-week intervals across this time. Follow these steps to encourage germination: Space rows of seeds around 20 to 30 inches apart after the danger of frost has passed. You don't need to start this hardy species indoors. Sow seeds so they are just lightly covered with soil (less than half an inch deep). Space individual seeds around 1 to 2 inches apart. Keep the soil evenly moist. Once they germinate, thin seedlings to around 6 to 10 inches apart. Tender, flavorful leaves should be ready to harvest between 40 and 60 days after sowing the seeds. Trim off individual leaves with garden scissors once they reach a size where you like the taste. Alternatively, harvest the whole plant once it is around 4 to 6 inches tall. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Hardy orach is typically disease- and pest-free. However, it might become host to a couple of rare bugs. These include the beet cyst eelworm (Heterodera schachtii) and the tortoise beetle (Cassida nebulosa).1 Removing the orach and rotating the crops for a couple of years with non-susceptible plant species is often the best way to eliminate eelworms. Tortoise beetles can be removed by hand before infestations get out of control. Aphids can also sometimes be a problem. Occasionally, the plant can also suffer from Wisconsin tobacco disease (Pseudomonas syringae pv. mellea) or bacterial canker (Pseudomonas syringae pv. syringae).1 While rare, both these bacterial pathogens can be tricky to diagnose and treat. Again, sometimes it's best to dispose of infected plants and rotate with non-susceptible plant species. Common Problems with Orach Orach is a plant that’s easy to grow in your vegetable garden or cottage garden flower beds. But even hardy species won’t thrive if you don’t offer the conditions they prefer. Below are some early warning signs you need to make some changes if you want to benefit from a bountiful harvest. Yellowing Leaves If your plant’s leaves are turning yellow, you must do some detective work. This commonly relates to insufficient light, over- or underwatering, or pest problems. You might need to reposition your orach plant into a sunnier spot or adjust your watering schedule to ensure evenly moist, not soggy soil. Stunted Growth If these tall, erect, and fast-growing plants don’t seem to be developing as you would expect, they could be infected with a pathogenic nematode, like the beet cyst eelworm. Selecting potatoes as a companion plant can also result in stunted growth. Companion Plants Generally, orach does well with companion plants also suited to spinach or amaranth. Below are a couple of suggestions of what to plant alongside this species. Sweet Alyssum Sweet alyssum (Lobularia maritima) is a beautiful flower that attracts hoverflies. These beneficial insects eat aphids, helping to control the populations which can sometimes be a problem for orach.2 Legumes Peas and beans provide a beneficial nitrogen boost to soils. This is ideal for helping to promote the growth of leafy plants like orach.

Determining when to pick bell peppers depends on which variety you grew, but expect to wait 60-90 days to harvest. If you start the peppers from seed, they can take closer to 90-150 days to harvest. But we promise, it's worth the wait! These warm-season vegetables, from the time you plant until they are ready to pick, take longer than almost all other garden crops. Other influencing factors include temperature, water, soil composition, and pest control. Read on to learn when your bell peppers are ready to pick. 3 Signs Your Bell Peppers Are Ready to Harvest Peppers are 3-4 inches long. Most standard-size bell peppers mature at 3- to 4-inches long and wide with a blocky shape. Some giant varieties grow a bit larger, while others (like pimento peppers) may be tapered at the bottom. Fruits are weighty. All peppers should feel solid, slightly heavy, and firm to the touch with just a slight give when pressed with your thumb. Color blushes from top to bottom. Color should be uniform throughout with a glossy appearance. 5 Top Tips for Harvesting Bell Peppers Bell peppers come in a rainbow of colors other than green including red, orange, yellow, purple, white, and brown. As a general rule of thumb, differently colored peppers take longer to mature than green bell peppers. Follow these tips for the best pepper harvest: Pick green peppers anytime, but leave them on the vine another two to three weeks for a sweeter pepper with a richer color. Green peppers that have started to turn will continue to ripen and change color after picking if set out in a cool, dark location for several days. Ripening off the vine, though, can result in loss of sweetness and flavor. Don't try to pull peppers off the plant. Use a snipper or pruner to clip fruits and leave a good amount of stem attached. Harvest peppers right away when they show signs of insect damage or sun-scald. The undamaged portion is still edible. Remove any soft or mushy fruits and dispose of them. This directs energy into maturing viable fruits. How to Harvest Bell Peppers Peppers on each plant ripen at different times over several weeks. You may find one ripe pepper on your plant or several ready to harvest at once. Here's how to pick your peppers. When the recommended "days to harvest: approaches, check plants daily for mature fruit. Pick peppers on a dry day or in the morning after dew has dried. Working in wet plants can damage foliage or spread disease. Remove ripe peppers from the plant by supporting the pepper in your nondominant hand and using your dominant hand to clip the stem where it attaches to the branch. Use an appropriate cutting tool and never pull on the fruit or the branch. Pepper branches can break easily. Peppers without stems should be used right away. Store harvested peppers in the refrigerator crisper drawer for up to two weeks in mesh or plastic bags. Add a dry paper towel to plastic bags and leave bags open to prevent accumulation of moisture.

When their skin is shiny and consistently purple, it’s time to harvest your homegrown eggplants. You can watch for a few telltale signs that your eggplant is ready to pick, especially if it's reached it's days to maturity. Eggplants are ready to pick when they have reached their full size, are firm and shiny, and give slightly when you press your fingernail in the skin. Read on to get the details about picking perfectly ripe eggplants for your dinner table. When to Pick Eggplant Three factors determine when eggplant is ready to be picked: days to maturity, planting or seeding time, and growing conditions. The days to maturity for eggplant range between 55 and 70 days. Mini eggplants and some smaller Asian eggplants mature the fastest. You’ll find the days to maturity listed on the seed packet. Soil temperature has been consistently warm. Once seedlings emerge, the ideal soil temperature is around 70°F. Much hotter or colder temperatures affect seedling growth, which then prolongs the time to harvest. The plants flowered a few weeks ago. Instead of doing the math, you can also start keeping an eye on the plants once they start to flower, as the fruit will form within a couple of weeks after flowering. 4 Signs Your Eggplants Are Ready to Pick If the eggplants meet all the criteria below, they are ready to be harvested: The fruit has reached full size. Check the variety description for the mature size, usually given in length by inches. Baby or mini eggplants are harvested much smaller, around 3 inches long. The eggplants are plump yet firm. Gently press on the skin with a fingernail. If the skin bounces back, the eggplant is ready to pick. If the indentation remains, it needs more time. The skin is shiny. All immature and just ripe eggplants have glossy skin. Once the fruits are overripe, the skin will turn dull. The eggplants have consistent coloring. This is an easy one for eggplant that is only one color, and it requires a closer look at speckled eggplant varieties such as ‘Fairy Tale’ or ‘Graffiti’. How to Pick Eggplant Wear gloves when picking eggplants, as some varieties have sharp thorns on their leaves, stems, and on the star-like leafy cap at the top of the fruit. Use garden pruners/shears to cut the eggplant off the thick stem. Never try to twist or break the eggplant off the fruit, as it damages the plant. Cut the fruit about one inch above the calyx. Make sure to leave the calyx intact on each fruit. Eggplants are prone to bruising, so handle them gently. Eggplant harvest on the same plant may last from several days to a few weeks. Once you've begun harvesting, check back for ripe fruit a couple of times a week. Frequent harvesting encourages the plants to continue producing. How to Store Eggplant Store eggplant at around 50°F. Store them in the fridge in a plastic bag or wrapped in a damp dish towel. This protects the eggplant from the chilling injury and the drying air of your fridge, which is about ten degrees too cold for eggplant. In the crisper of your fridge, unprotected eggplants will experience chilling injury, which appears as skin shrinkage. Eggplants with signs of chilling injury are still safe to eat, but fruits will spoil more quickly once they've been affected. Use eggplant stored in the crisper within five days. 4 Additional Tips for Growing Eggplant Do not plant eggplant in the same location where you grew other members of the nightshade family (tomatoes, peppers) for the two last seasons, preferably longer. Following crop rotation prevents pests and diseases. Staking eggplants protects them from getting knocked over by strong winds and rainstorms. A single stake is usually sufficient. Install it while the plant is still small to avoid disturbing the roots once the plants are established. Keep pests such as flea beetles away from young plants by draping a row cover of hoops. The row cover should not be placed directly on the plants. Remove the cover once the plants are flowering. Use a fertilizer that is low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus and potassium. Excess nitrogen leads to lots of foliage without fruit.

Potatoes can be demanding plants in vegetable beds, but they thrive in container gardens where pests are less likely to trouble developing tubers. Keeping potatoes in grow bags is one way to expand your growing space and fit more food crops in a small garden—however, potatoes can also be cultivated in upcycled plastic buckets for free. Here’s how to grow potatoes in a bucket for space savings, pest-free tubers, and other benefits. Instructions How to Grow Potatoes in Buckets Prep Your Potatoes Potatoes can be planted whole, but most growers cut potatoes into sections to help seed potatoes stretch a bit further in the garden. If you’re cutting seed potatoes, ensure each potato section has at least 2 eyes or nodes for sprouting. Allow cut potatoes to dry for a day or two before planting. Choose the Right Buckets Never use buckets that previously housed chemicals, paint, or other unsavory or unknown materials near edible plants. Instead, use buckets made of food-safe plastic and clean them out thoroughly before planting. Standard 5-gallon buckets can hold about 2 potato plants, while 10-gallon buckets can hold 4 potato plants. Drill Drainage Holes Potatoes need well-draining soil to grow properly—they can rot in soggy soil. To avoid this, flip your planting buckets over and drill holes across the base of each bucket using a drill and an ¾ inch drill bit. Add Soil Garden soil is too dense for container gardens and can cause drainage issues in potato buckets. A soil mix intended for raised bed gardens is a better option for growing containers, or you can make your own DIY mix by blending 1 part compost with 1 part potting soil. Fill the planting buckets most of the way up with the substrate of your choice, but leave a few inches of empty space at the top of each bucket so you can hill your potatoes later on. Plant Seed Potatoes To plant, space potatoes about 5 inches apart and 3 inches away from the sides of your planting bucket. Cover the potatoes with 2 inches of soil, move the buckets into a sunny spot that receives at least 6 hours of light daily, and water deeply. Water Well Potatoes should be watered regularly when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feels dry. Adding straw mulch over the soil can keep buckets from drying out too quickly. Watch for Pests Pests are less common in container gardens, but they can still crop up from time to time. Wilted, discolored, or holey leaves can all be signs of pest activity. If you see these symptoms, check your plants over carefully and handpick larger pests, like Colorado potato beetles, into a bucket of soapy water. Fertilize as Needed Potatoes are heavy feeders that need to be fertilized regularly with a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer. Applying diluted, liquid organic fertilizer twice a month works well for container-grown potatoes, or you can use a slow release, granular fertilizer, and compost. Hill Growing Spuds Hilling potatoes, or mounding the tops with soil, keeps spuds from turning green and encourages plants to produce more tubers. Begin hilling potatoes when plants are 6 inches tall by covering up the bottom 1/3 of each plant with soil. Repeat this process every few weeks until your potatoes are ready to harvest. Harvest Most potatoes are harvested about 60 to 120 days after planting or when the plants flower and their leaves start to brown. To harvest, lift individual potatoes from the soil with your fingers, or dump out the bucket on a tarp for even easier harvesting. Our Best Tips to Grow Great Potatoes Keep pests at bay by growing companion plants like nasturtiums, sweet alyssum, and alliums near potatoes. Straw mulch limits weeds reduces plant watering needs, and shelters potatoes from too much light. Testing soil before planting can let you know if your soil pH is ideal for potatoes. If needed, soil pH can be adjusted naturally with elemental sulfur. Always use fresh soil in container gardens and purchase potatoes from reliable suppliers to avoid wireworms. Don’t plant grocery store potatoes. They can harbor wireworms and other pests. After harvesting, cure potatoes for 2 weeks in a cool, dry place to keep them fresh. Early-season potatoes are planted 2 weeks before the last frost of spring and harvested in early summer. Mid-season potatoes are planted in early summer and harvested about 100 days later. Late-season potatoes are planted in late summer and harvested in autumn.

Radishes (Raphanus sativus) are notorious for their fast production, growing from seed to harvest in as little as 21 to 30 days. While red, round radishes are the most commonly conjured, radishes come in all sorts of shapes, sizes, and colors. Depending on the variety, they can be spherical or oblong like a carrot, and might be red, green, white, pink, purple, or yellow. If you're a beginner gardener, this quick-growing root vegetable is a perfect place to start your growing journey. For a successful harvest, follow these tips for how to grow and harvest radishes. How to Grow Radishes Radishes grow best when directly sown in cooler conditions, and can be grown in spring and fall. You can plant radish seeds as soon as the soil can be worked. Allow about one inch between seeds in the row. Many radish varieties mature very quickly; to ensure you have an ongoing supply of radishes and don't just harvest them all at once, sow seeds weekly (a gardening technique known as succession planting). Once spring temperatures reach 65 degrees, stop planting radish seeds, as heat will cause them to bolt, which means the plant is going to seed. If your radishes don't form roots, that could be a sign that there is excessive nitrogen in the soil—do a soil test to confirm. A rapid onset of hot weather or overcrowded garden beds could also be the cause. Make sure your radishes have ample room to grow and mature fully How to Know When a Radish Is Ready to Be Harvested It can be challenging to know when it's the right time to harvest root vegetables like radishes. After all, they grow underground and aren't as easy to observe as cucumbers or tomatoes. However, there are a few signs to look for to be sure your radishes are ready to be harvested. You're within the window of time in which that radish variety reaches maturity. (Different varieties have different growing times, so be sure to check the seed packet to confirm.) The above-ground radish greens are four to six inches tall. In general, the roots should be about around one inch in diameter, which you should be able to tell by the shoulders of the radish emerging above the soil. How to Harvest Radishes Once you're certain that your radishes have reached maturity, you'll want to harvest them. Don't wait too long; you want to pick them at the right time for peak flavor and texture. If they stay in the ground too long, they will get fibrous and develop a strong, unpleasant taste. Using your finger or a small garden trowel, scrape away the soil above the radish root. If it is one inch in diameter, it's ready to be harvested. Grab the radish at the base of its greens and pull straight up. You may need to gently wiggle it to loosen it from the soil, but it should emerge easily. Separate the root from the greens. If left attached, the leaves will draw out moisture and nutrients from the radish bulb. Wash each radish under cool, running water and rinse the radish greens, if keeping. Store radishes in an airtight, resealable container in the refrigerator's vegetable crisper drawer for one to two weeks.

Looking for another edible edition to your garden? Pepper plants are a winning choice. With a range of low-maintenance varieties available and a pepper to suit every garden size and tastebud preference, you'll quickly be able to grow your own harvest. As with any new crop in the garden, there are helpful tips and care requirements worth understanding that'll make the process easier for you, leading to more peppers and fewer stressful days trying to communicate with a not-so-happy plant. Once you've settled on your fruit (or veggie to some) of choice, brush up your knowledge on these tips and care pointers, below. Your Quick Guide for Growing Peppers Give peppers at least six hours of full light each day Plant peppers in slightly acidic soil that's warm and moist Grow peppers after the last frost so they stay warm and healthy Peppers can take up to three months to be ripe and ready for harvesting Pick peppers based on what ripeness looks like for their variety Which Peppers Should You Grow? Excited by the thought of growing a peck of peppers? Start by choosing the right variety. Zahid Adnan, gardening expert and founder of The Plant Bible, recommends starting with versatile varieties like bell peppers, jalapeños, or Anaheim peppers. "They're relatively easy to grow and offer a spectrum of flavors and heat levels," he says. Starting Peppers From Seed Growing peppers from seed isn't too difficult and is one of the more popular ways, aside from transplanting or buying young plants. The best indication of when you can start peppers from seeds will come from the last frost date in your area. Adnan says you can plant the seeds indoors eight to 10 weeks before the last frost date. Gather small containers for the seeds and push them down into warm and moist seed starting mix. (He says to aim for a temperature between 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit). This gives them time to start cultivating before they're brought outside. Planting Peppers Whether you've planted from seed or are planning to transplant, you'll likely want to bring your pepper plants outside for the best chance of survival and the most comfortable life. "Once seedlings have developed true leaves, transplant them into larger pots or directly into the garden after all danger of frost has passed," says Adnan. After planting, you can expect peppers to start fruiting and reach maturity between 65 and 85 days depending on the care they receive and the variety of pepper, according to Adnan. Caring for Peppers Once your peppers are in the ground, they won't ask for anything too strenuous—most varieties are relatively easy plants to grow and cultivate. By ensuring they get the light, water, and soil necessary for them to thrive, you can have a healthy harvest in a few months. Outside of the basics, Adnan notes to be aware of how your variety of pepper grows. While some stay lower to the ground, taller varieties will need some kind of trellis or stake. This supports them as they grow and will prevent breakage under the weight of fruit. Light Peppers love sunlight, whether planted in a bed or in containers on your deck. Adnan says they should be positioned to receive at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight. While they love sun, just be conscious of any recently pruned areas that may not be used to that level of exposure and can burn or leave room for the fruits to burn. Soil Peppers do best in slightly acidic soil—a pH between 6.0 and 6.8 is ideal. Soil should drain well and stay warm as they grow, hence why post-frost planting is important. This is particularly important for pepper plants and seeds that have been sown or transplanted. As for fertilization? Adnan says the occasional sprinkling of a balanced fertilizer is okay. Too much can boost the look of the leaves but hinder fruit production. Watering Balanced watering is important, too. Adnan says regular watering is important for keeping the soil moist. Ensure that you distribute it evenly across the pepper patch or pot and it's not funneling to just one part of the soil. Moisture is key, but be careful not to overwater. "Mulching around the base of the plants can help retain moisture and suppress weeds," he adds. Pepper Problems & How to Fix Them Peppers can run into a few issues while they're growing. These are the most common pests and diseases that can afflict your plants and how to deal with them. Pests The most common pests that go after peppers, according to Adnan, are aphids, flea beetles, and pepper maggots—the latter being fly larvae that specifically target peppers1 by burrowing into the fruit. Adnan says the best way to defend your plants is through frequent monitoring and using insecticidal soap or neem oil to combat infestations. Plant Diseases There are a handful of diseases that peppers are capable of developing. These include bacterial leaf spot, powdery mildew, and phytophthora blight. While they may sound disastrous, preventing them is fairly straightforward. Adnan says to focus on measures such as crop rotation, proper spacing, and avoiding overhead watering. Harvesting Peppers As mentioned, peppers can take a couple of months to appear on your plant. It will depend on the pepper variety, but when the fruit has fully become its intended color and size and has a glossy sheen, they're likely ready to be plucked. If you're worried about pepper picking influencing the growth rate, Adnan is here to ease your concerns. He notes regular harvesting can encourage your plant to produce more fruit.

Knowing when to harvest okra will make a big difference in how it tastes. Tender, young okra is delicious but large, older pods will be tough and fibrous. The first okra pods should be ready to harvest about 60 to 70 days after planting when pods are 2 to 3 inches long. Okra pods develop continuously over the summer, growing very fast on the plant, and should be harvested every two days (or more!) Read on for tips on harvesting okra, including signs they're ready and how to do it the right way. How to Know Okra Is Ready to Pick It's been 2-3 months since you planted. Okra should be ready to harvest 60 to 70 days after planting the seeds. Transplanted seedlings from seeds germinated indoors will produce pods in about 40 to 55 days. Okra flowers are wilting away. Okra plants produce large, yellow flowers that look much like a hibiscus. Once the okra blooms have wilted, the pods will form within a few days. Pods are 2-3 inches long. The pods should be picked when they are about two to three inches long—bigger is not better for okra pods. Pods are vibrantly colored. The pods should be vibrant green or purple, depending on the variety you are growing. Pale pods can be woody. How to Harvest Okra the Right Way While the pods can be snapped off the stem by hand, it's best to use garden shears or a sharp knife to minimize damage to the plant. Leave a short stem about one-fourth inch at the top of the okra pod. Keep a bucket or basket close by to collect the pods—they are easily bruised if handled too much. Okra is best eaten freshly harvested from the garden. If storing, do not wash the pods before placing them in the refrigerator vegetable bin. If properly harvested, handled gently, and stored at temperatures of 45 to 50 °F., the pods should last for about seven days. 7 Additional Tips for Growing Okra Round-podded okra varieties (Louisiana Green Velvet, Emerald, Stewarts Zeebest, Peter Pan, and Greeny Splendor) actually do remain tender at larger pod sizes. Choose them for slicing and food preservation. With optimal growing conditions and care, when harvested regularly, okra plants will continue to produce blooms and pods for up to 12 weeks. Each flower produces one okra pod. The flowers are edible and make great additions to salads. However, don’t pick them all—the flower, once pollinated, produces the pods. While the okra plant is a single stalk, its leaves need plenty of room to grow. Okra should be planted 9-12 inches apart with 3-6 feet between rows. Okra can be cut back in late summer to produce new growth and extend the harvest season. When harvest time is over, okra pods can be left on the plant to dry to save seed for next year. Okra needs full sun, warm temperatures, and well-draining soil to thrive.